WO2006104047A1 - Knitting method of warp knitted fabric, and warp knitted fabric - Google Patents

Knitting method of warp knitted fabric, and warp knitted fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2006104047A1
WO2006104047A1 PCT/JP2006/305988 JP2006305988W WO2006104047A1 WO 2006104047 A1 WO2006104047 A1 WO 2006104047A1 JP 2006305988 W JP2006305988 W JP 2006305988W WO 2006104047 A1 WO2006104047 A1 WO 2006104047A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
knitting
yarn
series
knitted fabric
warp knitted
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/JP2006/305988
Other languages
French (fr)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
Seiji Fujii
Kenji Ito
Yoshitaka Takemura
Original Assignee
Fukui Warp Knitting Co., Ltd.
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Publication date
Application filed by Fukui Warp Knitting Co., Ltd. filed Critical Fukui Warp Knitting Co., Ltd.
Publication of WO2006104047A1 publication Critical patent/WO2006104047A1/en

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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B27/00Details of, or auxiliary devices incorporated in, warp knitting machines, restricted to machines of this kind
    • D04B27/10Devices for supplying, feeding, or guiding threads to needles
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a knitting method of a warp knitted fabric and a warp knitted fabric obtained by the knitting method.
  • the present invention relates to a knitting method for obtaining a wrinkle effect on the surface of a warp knitted fabric such as a tricot fabric, and a warp knitted fabric having a wrinkle effect on the surface of the knitted fabric obtained by the method.
  • a yarn having a difference in shrinkage is mixed to obtain an overall unevenness by the difference in shrinkage, or a yarn having a different number of twists in a twist direction is mixed, so that a difference in shrinkage is a twisted torque.
  • a yarn having a different number of twists in a twist direction is mixed, so that a difference in shrinkage is a twisted torque.
  • filaments with different shrinkage ratios and thicknesses are mixed in a single yarn and heat-treated to produce crimps that cause crimps. There are also ways to get it.
  • These special yarns are manufactured by the original yarn manufacturer and can be used on the entire surface of the fabric to expose the texture on the surface of the fabric.
  • the characteristics of the various methods described above are that special yarns that are prone to wrinkle are used, or that wrinkles are manifested by a combination of yarns that have different physical properties such as shrinkage difference or untwisting torque difference. All the forces that are equal are left to the thread itself.
  • the embossing effect in the woven fabric described above is also applied to the field of knitting such as warp knitting.
  • the tricot fabric manufactured by the tricot machine is often used for women's clothing. Is the expected type. This kind of tricot fabric has a small stitch and its surface is smooth and has an appearance similar to that of a fabric.
  • Patent Document 1 JP-A-9 13280
  • the yarn crimp caused by the different shrinkage immediately appears as a change in the surface of the fabric.
  • the knitting yarn is formed into small curvilinear loops and these are connected to each other to form a fabric. Therefore, the degree of freedom of the yarn is lost and the wrinkles are reduced accordingly. It is difficult to stand! /, And because the fabric is formed by combining rings like chains, the wrinkles do not transmit on a straight line like woven fabrics, which also reduces the wrinkle standing .
  • the material used is limited in terms of means such as using a special material such as a different shrinkage mixed yarn to obtain a wrinkle effect, or using a twisted yarn as a knitting yarn and making the wrinkle stand up by its untwisting torque
  • the product range will be narrowed down.
  • the present invention according to a limited yarn material such as a different shrinkage mixed yarn or a twisted yarn.
  • a limited yarn material such as a different shrinkage mixed yarn or a twisted yarn.
  • the knitting yarn Y used for forming a single structure is dispersed into a plurality of beams ⁇ 1, ⁇ 2,.
  • Knitting yarns Yl, ⁇ 2,... Fed from the respective series beams Bl, B2 '' are knitted by passing them through a single thread L, and at the same time, knitting yarns ⁇ 1, ⁇ 2, ...
  • the needle loops NL formed by the knitting yarns Yl, ⁇ 2, ... that belong to each series beam, and the lengths of the sinker loops SL are made different. Therefore, the knitting method of warp knitted fabric that expresses wrinkles on the knitted fabric surface.
  • the present invention is (2), when knitting a warp knitted fabric with a warp knitting machine, the knitting yarn Y used for forming a single structure is dispersed in a plurality of beams ⁇ 1, ⁇ 2, ...
  • the knitting yarns ⁇ 1, ⁇ 2, ... sent out from the respective series beams are respectively connected to the respective yarns (first one Ll, second one) arranged corresponding to the respective series beams ⁇ 1, ⁇ 2, ... Threads L2,--) to each other in a positional relationship that complements their threading points, and makes each of the bosses (the first boss Ll, the second boss L2,. Knitting yarns Yl, ⁇ 2,...
  • the present invention provides (3) two or more series of beams B, and the knitting yarns Yl and ⁇ 2 fed from the respective series beams Bl and B2 are connected to the respective series beams Bl,
  • the present invention provides (4) a plurality of series of beams B having three series, and the knitting yarns Yl, ⁇ 2, and ⁇ 3 fed from the respective series beams Bl, B2, and B3
  • the three beams corresponding to series beams Bl, ⁇ 2, and ⁇ 3 (first boss Ll, second boss L2, and third boss L3) have a positional relationship that complements their threading points.
  • the knitting method of the warp knitted fabric described in (2) above is passed through each thread.
  • the present invention provides (5) the above (1) or (1), wherein one organization is a cord organization K (10Z2-3). Is in the knitting method of the warp knitted fabric described in (2).
  • the present invention resides in (6) the method for knitting a warp knitted fabric according to the above (1) or (2), wherein the structure is Denby structure 0 (1-0 12).
  • the present invention provides (7) two or more series of beams B, and the knitting yarns Yl and ⁇ 2 fed from the respective series beams Bl and B2 are connected to the respective series beams Bl,
  • the present invention provides (8) two or more series of beams B, and the knitting yarns Yl and ⁇ 2 sent out from the respective series beams Bl and B2 are connected to the respective series beams Bl,
  • the present invention provides (9) two or more series of beams B, and the knitting yarns Yl and ⁇ 2 fed from the respective series beams Bl and B2 are connected to the respective series beams Bl,
  • the warp knitting method described in (3) above is irregularly threaded in the positional relationship that complements the threading locations of the two fibers Ll and L2 corresponding to ⁇ 2. Exist.
  • one of the knitting yarns Y1 and Y2 fed from the respective series beams Bl and B2 is a right-twisted twisted yarn and the other is a left-twisted twisted yarn. It exists in the knitting method of the warp knitted fabric as described in said (7), (8) or (9).
  • the present invention is (11) a warp knitted fabric formed of a front structure FC, a middle structure MC, and a back structure BC, wherein the front structure FC is formed by the knitting method described in 1 or 2 above. It is a tissue that expresses the wrinkle effect formed, and exists in a warp knitted fabric obtained by knitting the front tissue FC, middle tissue MC, and back tissue BC in combination.
  • the present invention relates to (12), the warp according to the above (11), wherein the knock structure BC is a denbi structure D (l-OZ1-2), and the knitting yarn Y is a polyurethane yarn. It exists in the knitted fabric.
  • the present invention also relates to (13) a warp knitted fabric formed of a front structure FC, a middle structure MC, and a back structure BC, wherein the front structure FC is knitted by a jacquard bar J.
  • middle organization MC is an organization that produces the grain effect formed by the knitting method described in 1 or 2 above
  • knock organization BC is a Denbi organization (1-OZ1-2), and its strength is also edited It exists in the warp knitted fabric whose adult yarn is polyurethane yarn.
  • the beam B is made into a plurality of series, and the feeding lengths of the knitting yarns ⁇ 1, ⁇ 2, ... from the respective beams Bl, B2,. ⁇ 2 ⁇ --one dollar loop NL size and sinker loop SL length is different from each other in order to obtain a wrinkle effect.
  • a wrinkle effect can be easily obtained by using any knitting yarn without using a special yarn that develops.
  • the cost of the warp knitted fabric has a grain effect and the product items of the warp knitted fabric having a wrinkle effect are expanded.
  • the knitting yarn Y used for forming one structure is dispersed into a plurality of series of beams Bl, B2, ⁇ , and the knitting yarn Yl sent out from each of the series beams Bl, B2, ⁇ '
  • the knitting yarn Yl, ⁇ 2 does not coexist simultaneously on one sheet, so the workability when threading is also good, and the knitting yarn Yl, ⁇ 2, ⁇ Even in this case, the knitting yarn Yl, ⁇ 2,... Can be reliably passed through the original thread 1st thread L1, the second thread L2,.
  • the knitting yarns Yl and ⁇ 2 fed from the respective sequence beams ⁇ 1 and ⁇ 2 correspond to the respective sequence beams Bl and ⁇ 2.
  • 1 thread 1 L1 and 2 thread 2 L2 can be regularly threaded in 1 in 1 out, 2 in 2 out, etc., and these two fibers can form a single structure. In this way, when knitting is performed by setting the positional relationship to complement the thread passing portions, a regular, plain or regular warp knitted fabric can be obtained.
  • the knitting yarns Yl and ⁇ 2 sent out from the respective series beams B1 and B2 correspond to the respective series beams Bl and ⁇ 2.
  • Irregular threading such as 1 in, 2 out, 2 in, 3 out, 2 in, for example, is repeated as 1 repeat R.
  • the organization structure of the warp knitted fabric to be knitted is composed of three organizations: a front organization FC, a middle organization MC, and a back organization BC, and the front organization FC force.
  • a high-shrinkage elastic yarn such as polyurethane yarn
  • a warp knitted fabric having a grain effect and having high stretchability can be obtained. It is possible to develop products that have both design effects and functionality.
  • a tricot machine is used as the warp knitting machine
  • the front structure FC is formed of a jacquard structure by the jacquard bar J
  • the middle structure MC is a structure having a texture effect by the method according to claim 1 or 2.
  • the polyurethane yarn is used for the knock structure BC
  • the surface of the knitted fabric has a plain jacquard pattern, and the wrinkle effect due to the middle structure MC appears on the surface.
  • a beam shaft BS for setting a beam B is installed on the upper part of a warp knitting machine such as a tricot machine.
  • the number of beam shafts BS is approximately two to four.
  • Each of the beam shafts BS1, BS2,... Rotates at a predetermined speed, and rotates the beam B that is set to penetrate each beam shaft BS.
  • the knitting yarn Y is wound on the beam B, and the knitting yarn Y is sent out as the beam shaft BS rotates.
  • the rotation of the beam shaft BS is set according to the knitting speed.
  • the knitting yarn Y sent out by the beam B force is guided to the knitting needle N via the thread L. Be organized.
  • the beam shaft BS rotates at a speed commensurate with the knitting speed and feeds the knitting yarn Y. However, if the beam shaft rotation is delayed to reduce the feed length, the tension increases, and if the feed length is increased by increasing the feed speed, Tension decreases.
  • the knitted fabric's one-dollar loop NL2 (needle loop and stitch are synonymous) becomes smaller, and at the same time the sinker loop SL2 becomes shorter.
  • the sinker loop SL that connects the needle loop NL and the needle loop NL will also be shortened.
  • SL1 and SL2 are arranged.
  • the sinker loop SL2 When the sinker loop SL2 is shorter than the sinker loop SL1, the one-dollar loop NL rises to the front side, and the texture appears on the knitted fabric surface.
  • L is a general term for “L” as shown in FIG. 1
  • G is a general term for the “G” main body LB and the guide G attached to the “L” main body LB.
  • the expression “threading the knitting yarn Y through the thread L” means that the knitting thread Y is threaded through the guide G attached to the body LB.
  • threading means passing the knitting yarn Y through the hole LH of the guide G.
  • the two Ls used are the first Ls Ll and the second Ls L2 as viewed from the front of the knitting machine. Then, when viewed from the forefront of the knitting machine, every other knitting yarn Y1 drawn from the first series beam B1 is passed through the first spacer L1. At the same time, the knitting yarn Y2 drawn from the second series beam B2 is passed through the first thread LI and passed through the portion.
  • the knitting yarn Y1 of the first series beam B1 and the knitting yarn Y2 of the second series beam B2 are both passed through the first thread L1.
  • polyurethane yarn P is used as the knitting yarn Y3 for the third series beam B3, and this is passed through the second thread L2.
  • the front fabric FC is formed by the cord yarn and weaving K (l 0 / 2-3) shown in FIG. 8, and in the second fabric L2,
  • the back organization BC is organized by the Denbi organization D (l-2/1 -0) shown in Fig. 9.
  • the sending length of the knitting yarn Y2 of the second series beam B2 is made smaller than the sending length of the knitting yarn Y1 of the first series beam B1.
  • the size of the one-dollar loop NL2 formed by the knitting yarn Y2 of the second series beam B2 is the same as the one-dollar loop N L1 of the first series beam B1. Smaller than
  • the sinker loop SL is also shorter in the sinker loop SL2 formed by the knitting yarn Y2 of the second series beam B2 than the thin force SL1 formed by the knitting yarn Y1 of the first series beam B1. .
  • the needle loops NL2 formed to be small are arranged in every other row in the vertical direction, and a vertical stripe-like embossing effect is obtained.
  • the sinker loop SL2 becomes shorter, so that the one-dollar loop NL rises, and this also gives the grain effect.
  • the polyurethane yarn P knitted into the knock structure BC imparts high stretchability, and as a result, a highly stretchable warp knitted fabric called reverse half shown in FIG. 10 is obtained.
  • the method of passing the knitting yarns Yl and ⁇ 2 drawn from the two series of beams Bl and B2 in form 1 through one first fiber L1 is a force knitting that is sufficient as a means for obtaining the grain effect. Difficulty in previous preparatory work phase.
  • the first yarn L1 already has the knitting yarn Y1 of the first beam B1 introduced into the first spacer L1, and its existence hinders the knitting yarn of the second beam ⁇ 2 to the vacant guide G. ⁇ 2 It is complicated and difficult to introduce the yarn.
  • the beam B for sending the knitting yarn Y is divided into two lines, and the number L used is one.
  • the beam sequence is assumed to be three sequences.
  • the first machine L1, the second machine L2, and the third machine L3 are used as viewed from the front of the knitting machine.
  • the knitting yarn Y2 drawn from the second series beam B2 is also passed through the second thread L2 in 1 in 1 out.
  • the polyurethane yarn P is used as the knitting yarn Y3 for the third series beam B3, and this is passed through the third thread L3.
  • the guide portion through which the second thread L2 is threaded is set so as to be positioned in the guide section through which the first thread L1 is not threaded.
  • Fig. 7 (A) schematically shows the threading state of the first spacer L1 and the second spacer L2.
  • the points where the thread is passed through the guide G of the thread L are indicated by ⁇
  • the guide points where the thread is not threaded are indicated by X.
  • the portion of the second thread L2 that corresponds to the thread passage of the first thread L1 is not threaded.
  • the second thread L2 corresponding to the position where the first thread L1 is not threaded is threaded.
  • the two discs are combined to perform the function of one disc.
  • these are complementary to each other.
  • the feed length of the knitting yarn Y2 of the second series beam B2 is reduced with respect to the feed length of the knitting yarn Y1 of the first series beam B1, and the embossing effect is obtained as in the first mode.
  • denbi yarn and weaving D (1-2/1 -0) is formed as a back yarn and weaving BC, and these two yarns and weaving are called reverse half (Fig. 10).
  • the same thread and weave is formed as in Form 1.
  • the former has problems with preparation workability and yarn breakage during knitting, but the knitting yarn drawn from the two series of beams is passed through one thread, so the number of threads is small. There is an advantage to end.
  • the first user Ll, the second user L2, and the third user L3 are used.
  • the first organization L1 and the second organization L2 form one front organization FC
  • the third organization L3 forms the back organization BC.
  • Form 2 it is not necessarily limited to using two series of beams and two fibers for knitting one yarn and weaving, but allows for knitting machine circumstances. As long as it is possible to form a single tissue using 3 series beams and 3 fibers, or 4 series beams and 4 fibers.
  • one organization refers to an organization that can be knitted by operating one web on a warp knitting machine.
  • the threading is basic, such as 1 in 1 out, so for example, 1 in, 2 out, 2 in, 1 out, 3 in As a repeat, this process can be repeated to obtain a more complex grain effect, enabling a wide range of product development.
  • a tricot machine (manufactured by Karl Meyer, type KS3G9) is used as the warp knitting machine.
  • the first sequence beam B1 and the second sequence beam B2 are used to form the front structure FC, and the third sequence beam B3 is used to form the back structure BC.
  • the front organization FC is Denbi organization D (1—0 / 1—2), and the back organization BC is also Denbi organization 0 (1—2 1 0).
  • nylon 'Woolie yarn (Toray ⁇ 78 (1 ⁇ 2 4 filament)' is used for the front fabric FC, and polyurethane yarn ⁇ (Toray 'Roy force 44dtex) is used for the back fabric BC. Yes.
  • the knitting yarn Y2 feed length from the second series beam B2 is knitted to be shorter than the feed length of the knitting yarn Y1 from the first series beam B1. As shown in Fig. 11, the size of the needle crepe NL2 and the length of the sinker crease SL2 are reduced.
  • a tricot machine (manufactured by KARL'MYER, type KS4G8) is used as the warp knitting machine.
  • this tricot machine has four plates.
  • the beam uses 4 series.
  • the first series beam B1, the second series beam B2, and the third series beam B3 are used for knitting the front yarn and weave FC, and the fourth series beam B4 is used for knitting the back structure BC.
  • the front organization FC is the Denbi organization D (l-OZ1-2) and the back organization BC is the Denbi organization (1-2Z1-0).
  • nylon 'Woolley yarn (Toray ⁇ 78 (1 ⁇ 2 4 filament)' is used for the front fabric FC and polyurethane yarn (Toray 'Roy force 44dtex) is used for the back fabric BC.
  • the first thread Ll, the second thread L2, and the third thread L3 are all threaded 1 in 2 as shown in Fig. 7 (D).
  • the yarns are set so as to be offset sequentially so that the knitting yarns Y are supplied to all the knitting needles N by complementing the thread passing points.
  • the three blades complement each other and get a state where all the yarns are threaded. Then, the first, second, and third series of beams Bl, B2, and B3 are knitted with three knitting yarns Yl, ⁇ 2, and ⁇ 3 as the feed lengths of large, medium, and small.
  • a tricot machine (manufactured by Karl Meyer, Jacquard type) is used as the warp knitting machine.
  • this tricot machine has a jacquard bar J, and it has four sheets including this.
  • the four sheets are jacquard bar J, second section L2, third section L3, and fourth section L4 as viewed from the front of the knitting machine.
  • the beam uses 4 series.
  • the first series B B1 is used for the jacquard bar J, and the organization formed by this jacquard bar J is the front organization FC.
  • the second series beam B2 and the third series beam B3 complement each other and are used to form the middle structure MC.
  • the fourth series beam B4 is used to form the knock tissue BC.
  • the jacquard bar J is a mechanism that can arbitrarily select and knitting the Denbi organization D (l-2Zl-0) and the chord organization K (l- OZ2-3). Organize. The knitting yarns ⁇ 2 and ⁇ 3 drawn from the second and third series beams ⁇ 2 and ⁇ 3 are guided to the second thread L2 and the third thread L3, respectively, and passed through 1 in 1 out, and the threading points of each other The position is adjusted to compensate for the middle structure MC (code structure ⁇ ).
  • the wrinkle effect is obtained by making a difference in the feed length of the knitting yarns ⁇ 2 and ⁇ 3.
  • Knock Organization BC is Denbi Organization D.
  • nylon 'wooly yarn (Toray 78dtexZ 24 filament) is used for the front structure FC and middle structure MC, and polyurethane yarn P (Toray Roy Corporation 44dtex) is used for the knock structure BC.
  • an unconventional stretchable wart jacquard warp knitted fabric with its internal force highlighting the wrinkle effect can be obtained.
  • This example has the same settings as in Example 1 above (Fig. 4), but the method of threading the first fabric L1 and the second fabric L2 for knitting the front fabric FC is shown in Fig. 7. As shown in (C), 1 thread, 1 line, 1 line, 1 line, 1 line, 1 line, 1 line, 1 line, 1 line, 1 line, etc. are threaded irregularly and repeated as 1 repeat R.
  • the two cords are set in a positional relationship that can complement their threading points, and the cord fabric K is knitted by operating these two cords in the same manner.
  • the warp knitted fabric knitted with such a setting becomes a warp knitted fabric having a wrinkle effect characteristic of vertical stripes.
  • the front organization FC (code organization K) is formed by the first user L1 and the second user L2.
  • the first series beam B1 uses right-twisted nylon 'wooly yarn twisted yarn (Toray' 78dtexZ24 filament, S800TZM), and the second series beam B2 uses left-twisted nylon. (Toray Industries, Inc. '78dtexZ 24 filament, Z800T / M) is used.
  • the difference between the feed length of the knitting yarn Y1 from the first series beam B1 and the feed length of the knitting yarn from the second series beam B2 is made different from that of the one-dollar loop NL and the length of the sinker loop SL. Gets the grain effect.
  • the middle structure MC (Denbi structure D) is knitted by the third thread L3 using the knitting yarn Y3.
  • the back structure BC (Denbi structure D) is knitted by the fourth thread L4 using the polyurethane yarn P (Toray Industries, Inc., 44 dtex) which is the knitting yarn Y4.
  • a warp knitted fabric having a wrinkle effect can be obtained by combining the wrinkle effect due to the untwisting torque or the like of the twisted yarn used and the wrinkle expression effect of the present invention.
  • the present invention can be carried out in combination with yarns that can exert a grain effect by themselves, such as a different shrinkage mixed yarn or a twisted yarn. Design effect is obtained.
  • the present invention is used in a knitting method for obtaining a wrinkle effect on the surface of a warp knitted fabric such as a tricot fabric, and is also used for a warp knitted fabric having a wrinkle effect on the surface of the knitted fabric.
  • FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of the configuration of a warp knitting machine, and also an explanatory diagram of Example 5.
  • FIG. 2 is an explanatory view of the relationship between the change in the feed length of the knitting yarn Y and the grain effect.
  • FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram showing the implementation of the present invention using a single sheet.
  • FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram showing the implementation of the present invention using two sheets.
  • FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram of the implementation of the present invention using three sheets.
  • FIG. 6 is a schematic diagram showing the implementation of the present invention using a jacquard bar J.
  • FIG. 7 is an explanatory schematic view of a thread passing state with respect to a cord.
  • FIG. 8 is a cord yarn and weave drawing.
  • FIG. 9 is an organization chart of Denbi.
  • FIG. 10 is a reverse half organization chart.
  • FIG. 11 is an organization chart according to the present invention with 2 in 2 out.
  • FIG. 12 is an organization chart according to the present invention having a large, medium, and small-one dollar loop. Explanation of symbols

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Abstract

A means for attaining a crimp effect even if using any yarn material without limiting the yarn material to different shrinkage combined filament yarn, twisted yarn, and the like. When a warp knitted fabric is knitted by a warp knitting machine, knitting yarn Y for forming one design is distributed to a plurality of series of beam B, the knitting yarn being fed out from each series of beam B is passed to each reed L arranged in association with each series of beam in such a positional relation as complementing the harness cord portions each other, respective reeds are operated identically to knit one design and, at the same time, the knitting yarn of each series beam is fed out while differentiating the feed-out length, and the size of a needle loop NL and the length of a sinker loop SL being formed by knitting yarns belonging to respective series beam are differentiated so that crimp emerges on the surface of a fabric.

Description

経編地の編成方法と、その経編地  Method of knitting warp knitted fabric and its warp knitted fabric
技術分野  Technical field
[0001] 本発明は、経編地の編成方法とその編成方法によって得られる経編地に関する。  [0001] The present invention relates to a knitting method of a warp knitted fabric and a warp knitted fabric obtained by the knitting method.
詳しくはトリコット地等の経編地の表面にシボ効果を得るための編成方法と、その方 法によって得られる、編地表面にシボ効果を有する経編地に関する。  More specifically, the present invention relates to a knitting method for obtaining a wrinkle effect on the surface of a warp knitted fabric such as a tricot fabric, and a warp knitted fabric having a wrinkle effect on the surface of the knitted fabric obtained by the method.
背景技術  Background art
[0002] 織物において、表面に凹凸のあるシボ織物があるのは周知のとおりである。  [0002] As is well known, there is a wrinkled woven fabric having a surface with irregularities.
例えば、楊柳、クレープ、縮緬などがある。  For example, cocoon willow, crepe, crepe.
シボ発現の方法としては、収縮差のある糸を混在させて、その収縮差により全体的 に凹凸を得る方法や、撚り数ゃ撚り方向の異なる糸を混在させて、収縮差ゃ解撚トル ク等によりシボを発現する方法などがある。  As a method for expressing a wrinkle, a yarn having a difference in shrinkage is mixed to obtain an overall unevenness by the difference in shrinkage, or a yarn having a different number of twists in a twist direction is mixed, so that a difference in shrinkage is a twisted torque. For example, there are methods for expressing wrinkles.
これらのシボ発現は、生地を熱処理することにより、きわだって発現するのが通常で ある。  Usually, these wrinkles are manifested by heat treatment of the dough.
[0003] また、異繊度異収縮混繊糸に見られるように 1本の糸の中に収縮率や太さの異なる フィラメントを混在させてこれを熱処理することにより捲縮を発生させてシボを得る方 法等もある。  [0003] Further, as seen in mixed yarns with different degrees of fineness and different shrinkage, filaments with different shrinkage ratios and thicknesses are mixed in a single yarn and heat-treated to produce crimps that cause crimps. There are also ways to get it.
このような特殊糸は原糸メーカによって製造されるもので、織物全面に使用して、生 地表面にシボを表出することができる。  These special yarns are manufactured by the original yarn manufacturer and can be used on the entire surface of the fabric to expose the texture on the surface of the fabric.
上記した各種方法の特徴は、シボを発現しやすい特殊糸を用いる、或いは使用 する糸の収縮差や解撚トルク差などのように糸自身が有する物性特性の異なるもの の組み合わせによってシボを発現する等である力 いずれも使用する糸そのものに 委ねられているところにある。  The characteristics of the various methods described above are that special yarns that are prone to wrinkle are used, or that wrinkles are manifested by a combination of yarns that have different physical properties such as shrinkage difference or untwisting torque difference. All the forces that are equal are left to the thread itself.
[0004] 以上説明した織物におけるシボ効果は、経編等の編物の分野にも応用されている 特にトリコット機で製造されるトリコット地は、女性用衣料に使用されることが多ぐシ ボ効果が期待される種類である。 この種のトリコット地は、編目が小さくその表面が平滑で織物とよく似た外観を呈して いるので織物に似たシボ効果が期待される。 [0004] The embossing effect in the woven fabric described above is also applied to the field of knitting such as warp knitting. In particular, the tricot fabric manufactured by the tricot machine is often used for women's clothing. Is the expected type. This kind of tricot fabric has a small stitch and its surface is smooth and has an appearance similar to that of a fabric.
[0005] そこで、これらのトリコット地の分野でも織物のシボ発現手段と同様に、シボ発現に 効果のある特殊糸を編成糸として用いたり、或いは、編成糸の収縮差や解撚トルク差 などのように糸自身が有する物性特性の異なるものの組み合わせることによりシボ効 果を得ていた。  [0005] Therefore, in the field of tricot fabrics, special yarns that are effective in generating wrinkles are used as knitting yarns, or the knitting yarn shrinkage difference, untwisting torque difference, etc. As described above, the grain effect was obtained by combining the yarns having different physical properties.
[0006] 特許文献 1 :特開平 9 13280  [0006] Patent Document 1: JP-A-9 13280
発明の開示  Disclosure of the invention
発明が解決しょうとする課題  Problems to be solved by the invention
[0007] 織物においては、経糸、緯糸がほぼ直線状で、直角に組まれて布帛が形成される ので使用する糸の特性が発現し易くシボが立ち易い。 [0007] In a woven fabric, warps and wefts are almost linear and are assembled at right angles to form a fabric, so that the characteristics of the yarn used are easily expressed and wrinkles are likely to occur.
例えば、シボ効果を得る素材として周知の異収縮混繊糸を用いた場合、その異収 縮により生じた糸のクリンプカ S即、織物の表面変化として現れる。  For example, when a well-known different shrinkage mixed yarn is used as a material for obtaining the wrinkle effect, the yarn crimp caused by the different shrinkage immediately appears as a change in the surface of the fabric.
これに対して、トリコット地においては、編成糸を小さな曲線状のループに形成して これらを互いに連結して布帛を形成する構造であるので、糸の自由度が失われ、そ の分シボが立ちにく!/、ことや、鎖のようにリングを組み合わせて布帛が形成されて!ヽ るので、織物のようにシボが直線上に伝達せず、これもシボ立ちの低下をもたらして いる。  On the other hand, in the tricot fabric, the knitting yarn is formed into small curvilinear loops and these are connected to each other to form a fabric. Therefore, the degree of freedom of the yarn is lost and the wrinkles are reduced accordingly. It is difficult to stand! /, And because the fabric is formed by combining rings like chains, the wrinkles do not transmit on a straight line like woven fabrics, which also reduces the wrinkle standing .
[0008] このようにシボ効果を得るために効果的な糸素材を使用しても、トリコット地のように 小さく締まった編目で形成される経編地では、糸素材の変化だけでは期待されるシ ボ効果が得られな!/、問題があった。  [0008] Even if an effective yarn material is used to obtain the embossing effect in this way, a warp knitted fabric formed with a small tightened stitch such as a tricot fabric is expected only by a change in the yarn material. I couldn't get the effect! / There was a problem.
また、シボ効果を得るために異収縮混繊糸のような特殊な素材を用いたり、編成糸 として加撚した糸を用い、その解撚トルクによりシボを立たせる等の手段は使用素材 が限定され、製品範囲も絞られてくる。  In addition, the material used is limited in terms of means such as using a special material such as a different shrinkage mixed yarn to obtain a wrinkle effect, or using a twisted yarn as a knitting yarn and making the wrinkle stand up by its untwisting torque The product range will be narrowed down.
更には、用いる素材が特殊な場合はコストも高くつくと同時に、編成が困難な場合 もあって製品の品質低下をもたらす等の多くの問題がある。  Furthermore, when the material used is special, the cost is high, and at the same time, there are many problems such as knitting being difficult and the quality of the product being lowered.
課題を解決するための手段  Means for solving the problem
[0009] そこで、本発明においては、異収縮混繊糸ゃ加撚糸等の限定された糸素材によら ず、如何なる糸素材を用いてもシボ効果を得ることができる手段を提供する。 Therefore, in the present invention, according to a limited yarn material such as a different shrinkage mixed yarn or a twisted yarn. First, it provides a means capable of obtaining the grain effect using any yarn material.
[0010] つまり、本発明は、(1)、経編機で経編地を編成する際、一つの組織の形成に用い る編成糸 Yを複数系列のビーム Β1、 Β2、 · ·に分散し、それぞれの系列ビーム Bl、 B 2· 'から送り出される編成糸 Yl、 Υ2、 · ·を 1枚のォサ Lに通糸して編成すると同時に 、系列ビーム毎の編成糸 Υ1、 Υ2、 · ·を、その送り出し長に差を付けて送り出し、それ ぞれの系列ビームに属する編成糸 Yl、 Υ2、 · ·が形成するニードルループ NLの大 きさ、並びにシンカーループ SLの長さを異ならせることにより編地表面にシボを発現 する経編地の編成方法に存する。  That is, in the present invention, (1) when knitting a warp knitted fabric with a warp knitting machine, the knitting yarn Y used for forming a single structure is dispersed into a plurality of beams Β1, Β2,. Knitting yarns Yl, Υ2,... Fed from the respective series beams Bl, B2 '' are knitted by passing them through a single thread L, and at the same time, knitting yarns 系列 1, Υ2, ... The needle loops NL formed by the knitting yarns Yl, Υ2, ... that belong to each series beam, and the lengths of the sinker loops SL are made different. Therefore, the knitting method of warp knitted fabric that expresses wrinkles on the knitted fabric surface.
[0011] また、本発明は、(2)、経編機で経編地を編成する際、一つの組織の形成に用いる 編成糸 Yを複数系列のビーム Β1、 Β2、 · ·に分散し、それぞれの系列ビームから送り 出される編成糸 Υ1、 Υ2、 · ·を、それぞれの系列ビーム Β1、 Β2、 · ·に対応して配設 されたそれぞれのォサ (第 1ォサ Ll、第 2ォサ L2、 · -)に、互いにその通糸箇所を補 完する位置関係に通糸して、それぞれのォサ (第 1ォサ Ll、第 2ォサ L2、 · をすベ て同一作動させて一つの組織を編成すると同時に、系列ビーム毎の編成糸 Yl、 Υ2 、 · ·を、その送り出し長に差をつけて送り出し、それぞれの系列ビーム Bl、 Β2、 "に 属する編成糸 Υ1、 Υ2· ·が形成する-一ドルループ NLの大きさ、並びにシンカール ープ SLの長さを異ならせることにより編地表面にシボを発現する経編地の編成方法 に存する。  [0011] Further, the present invention is (2), when knitting a warp knitted fabric with a warp knitting machine, the knitting yarn Y used for forming a single structure is dispersed in a plurality of beams Β1, Β2, ... The knitting yarns Υ1, Υ2, ... sent out from the respective series beams are respectively connected to the respective yarns (first one Ll, second one) arranged corresponding to the respective series beams Β1, Β2, ... Threads L2,--) to each other in a positional relationship that complements their threading points, and makes each of the bosses (the first boss Ll, the second boss L2,. Knitting yarns Yl, Υ2,... For each series beam are sent out with a difference in the feed length, and knitting yarns belonging to each series beam Bl, Β2, " · Form a wrinkle on the surface of the knitted fabric by varying the size of the one-dollar loop NL and the length of the sink loop SL It resides in the knitting method of warp knitted fabric.
[0012] また、本発明は、(3)、複数系列のビーム Bが 2系列であって、それぞれの系列ビー ム Bl、 B2から送り出された編成糸 Yl、 Υ2が、それぞれの系列ビーム Bl、 Β2に対 応する 2枚のォサ Ll、 L2に、互いにその通糸箇所を補完しあう位置関係に、それぞ れ通糸されて!、る上記(2)記載の経編地の編成方法に存する。  [0012] In addition, the present invention provides (3) two or more series of beams B, and the knitting yarns Yl and Υ2 fed from the respective series beams Bl and B2 are connected to the respective series beams Bl, The knitting method for warp knitted fabric according to (2) above, in which the two fibers Ll and L2 corresponding to Β2 are threaded in a positional relationship that complements the threading points of each other! Exist.
[0013] また、本発明は、(4)、複数系列のビーム Bが 3系列であって、それぞれの系列ビー ム Bl、 B2、 B3から送り出された編成糸 Yl、 Υ2、 Υ3が、それぞれの系列ビーム Bl、 Β2、 Β3に対応する 3枚のォサ(第 1ォサ Ll、第 2ォサ L2、第 3ォサ L3)に、互いにそ の通糸箇所を補完しあう位置関係に、それぞれ通糸されている上記(2)記載の経編 地の編成方法に存する。  [0013] Further, the present invention provides (4) a plurality of series of beams B having three series, and the knitting yarns Yl, Υ2, and Υ3 fed from the respective series beams Bl, B2, and B3 The three beams corresponding to series beams Bl, Β2, and Β3 (first boss Ll, second boss L2, and third boss L3) have a positional relationship that complements their threading points. The knitting method of the warp knitted fabric described in (2) above is passed through each thread.
[0014] また、本発明は、(5)、一つの組織がコード組織 K(l 0Z2— 3)である上記(1)又 は(2)記載の経編地の編成方法に存する。 [0014] Further, the present invention provides (5) the above (1) or (1), wherein one organization is a cord organization K (10Z2-3). Is in the knitting method of the warp knitted fabric described in (2).
[0015] また、本発明は、(6)、ーっの組織がデンビー組織0 (1—0 1 2)でぁる上記(1 )又は(2)記載の経編地の編成方法に存する。  [0015] Further, the present invention resides in (6) the method for knitting a warp knitted fabric according to the above (1) or (2), wherein the structure is Denby structure 0 (1-0 12).
[0016] また、本発明は、(7)、複数系列のビーム Bが 2系列であって、それぞれの系列ビー ム Bl、 B2から送り出された編成糸 Yl、 Υ2が、それぞれの系列ビーム Bl、 Β2に対 応する 2枚のォサ Ll、 L2に、互いにその通糸箇所を補完しあう位置関係に、それぞ れ 1イン 1アウトで通糸されている上記(3)記載の経編地の編成方法に存する。  [0016] Further, the present invention provides (7) two or more series of beams B, and the knitting yarns Yl and Υ2 fed from the respective series beams Bl and B2 are connected to the respective series beams Bl, The warp knitted fabric according to (3) above, in which the yarns Ll and L2 corresponding to Β2 are threaded in 1-in-1-out, respectively, in a positional relationship that complements the threading locations. It exists in the organization method.
[0017] また、本発明は、(8)、複数系列のビーム Bが 2系列であって、それぞれの系列ビー ム Bl、 B2から送り出された編成糸 Yl、 Υ2が、それぞれの系列ビーム Bl、 Β2に対 応する 2枚のォサ Ll、 L2に、互いにその通糸箇所を補完しあう位置関係に、それぞ れ 2イン 2アウトで通糸されて 、る上記(3)記載の経編地の編成方法に存する。  [0017] Further, the present invention provides (8) two or more series of beams B, and the knitting yarns Yl and Υ2 sent out from the respective series beams Bl and B2 are connected to the respective series beams Bl, The warp knitting described in (3) above, in which two yarns Ll and L2 corresponding to Β2 are threaded in 2 in 2 outs in a positional relationship that complement each other. It exists in the organization method of the ground.
[0018] また、本発明は、(9)、複数系列のビーム Bが 2系列であって、それぞれの系列ビー ム Bl、 B2から送り出された編成糸 Yl、 Υ2が、それぞれの系列ビーム Bl、 Β2に対 応する 2枚のォサ Ll、 L2に、互いにその通糸箇所を補完しあう位置関係に、不規則 に通糸されて 、る上記(3)記載の経編地の編成方法に存する。  [0018] Further, the present invention provides (9) two or more series of beams B, and the knitting yarns Yl and Υ2 fed from the respective series beams Bl and B2 are connected to the respective series beams Bl, The warp knitting method described in (3) above is irregularly threaded in the positional relationship that complements the threading locations of the two fibers Ll and L2 corresponding to Β2. Exist.
[0019] また、本発明は、(10)、それぞれの系列ビーム Bl、 B2から送り出される編成糸 Y1 、 Y2が、一方が右撚りの加撚糸であって、他方が左撚りの加撚糸である上記(7)、 ( 8)、又は(9)記載の経編地の編成方法に存する。  [0019] In the present invention, (10), one of the knitting yarns Y1 and Y2 fed from the respective series beams Bl and B2 is a right-twisted twisted yarn and the other is a left-twisted twisted yarn. It exists in the knitting method of the warp knitted fabric as described in said (7), (8) or (9).
[0020] また、本発明は、( 11)、フロント組織 FCとミドル組織 MCとバック組織 BCとで形成さ れる経編地であって、フロント組織 FCが上記 1、又は 2記載の編成方法により形成さ れるシボ効果を発現する組織であり、該フロント組織 FCとミドル組織 MCとバック組織 BCとを組み合わせ編成して得られる経編地に存する。  [0020] Further, the present invention is (11) a warp knitted fabric formed of a front structure FC, a middle structure MC, and a back structure BC, wherein the front structure FC is formed by the knitting method described in 1 or 2 above. It is a tissue that expresses the wrinkle effect formed, and exists in a warp knitted fabric obtained by knitting the front tissue FC, middle tissue MC, and back tissue BC in combination.
[0021] また、本発明は、(12)、 ノ ック組織 BCがデンビ一組織 D (l— OZ1— 2)であって、 その編成糸 Yがポリウレタン糸である上記(11)記載の経編地に存する。  [0021] Further, the present invention relates to (12), the warp according to the above (11), wherein the knock structure BC is a denbi structure D (l-OZ1-2), and the knitting yarn Y is a polyurethane yarn. It exists in the knitted fabric.
[0022] また、本発明は、( 13)、フロント組織 FCとミドル組織 MCとバック組織 BCとで形成さ れる経編地であって、フロント組織 FCがジャカードバー Jで編成されるジャカード組織 であり、ミドル組織 MCが上記 1、又は 2記載の編成方法により形成されるシボ効果を 発現する組織であり、ノック組織 BCがデンビ一組織(1— OZ1— 2)で、し力もその編 成糸がポリウレタン糸である経編地に存する。 [0022] The present invention also relates to (13) a warp knitted fabric formed of a front structure FC, a middle structure MC, and a back structure BC, wherein the front structure FC is knitted by a jacquard bar J. Organization, middle organization MC is an organization that produces the grain effect formed by the knitting method described in 1 or 2 above, knock organization BC is a Denbi organization (1-OZ1-2), and its strength is also edited It exists in the warp knitted fabric whose adult yarn is polyurethane yarn.
[0023] 本発明の目的に沿ったものであれば上記(1)から(13)を適宜組み合わせた構成も 当然可能である。  [0023] As long as the object of the present invention is met, a configuration in which the above (1) to (13) are appropriately combined is naturally possible.
発明の効果  The invention's effect
[0024] 本発明において、ビーム Bを複数系列にして、それぞれのビーム Bl、 B2、 . 'からの 編成糸 Υ1、 Υ2· ·の送り出し長に差をつけて、その系列に属する編成糸 Υ1、 Υ2、 · · が形成する-一ドルループ NLの大きさとシンカーループ SLの長さを異ならせてシボ 効果を得る場合には、異収縮混繊糸ゃ加撚糸等のような糸自体がシボ効果を発現 する特殊糸を用いずとも、如何なる編成糸を使用しても容易にシボ効果を得ることが できる。  [0024] In the present invention, the beam B is made into a plurality of series, and the feeding lengths of the knitting yarns Υ1, Υ2, ... from the respective beams Bl, B2,. Υ2 ··· --one dollar loop NL size and sinker loop SL length is different from each other in order to obtain a wrinkle effect. A wrinkle effect can be easily obtained by using any knitting yarn without using a special yarn that develops.
このことによりコスト低減が図られると同時に、シボ効果を有する経編地の商品アイ テムの拡大が図られ、従来に全く見られな力つたシボ経編製品の開発が可能となつ た。  As a result, the cost of the warp knitted fabric has a grain effect and the product items of the warp knitted fabric having a wrinkle effect are expanded.
[0025] 本発明において、一つの組織の形成に用いる編成糸 Yを複数系列のビーム Bl, B 2、 · ·に分散し、それぞれの系列ビーム Bl、 B2、 · 'から送り出される編成糸 Yl、 Υ2 、 · ·を、それぞれの系列ビーム Β1、 Β2、 · ·に対応した第 1ォサ Ll、第 2ォサ L2、 · · を用いて編成する場合には、各系列の編成糸 Y1、Y2、 · ·が、 1枚のォサに同時に 混在することがないので、通糸する際の作業性も良ぐカロえて、編成時に編成糸 Yl、 Υ2、 · ·がー度に数本切れた場合でも、元のォサ第 1ォサ Ll、第 2ォサ L2、 · ·に編成 糸 Yl、 Υ2、 · ·を確実に通糸でき、又、その修復に時間を要しない。  [0025] In the present invention, the knitting yarn Y used for forming one structure is dispersed into a plurality of series of beams Bl, B2, ···, and the knitting yarn Yl sent out from each of the series beams Bl, B2, · ' When knitting Υ2, ··· using the first beam Ll, the second beam L2, ··· corresponding to the respective beam Β1, Β2, ···, knitting yarns Y1 and Y2 of each chain , ··· does not coexist simultaneously on one sheet, so the workability when threading is also good, and the knitting yarn Yl, Υ2, ··· Even in this case, the knitting yarn Yl, Υ2,... Can be reliably passed through the original thread 1st thread L1, the second thread L2,.
[0026] 本発明にお 、て、複数系列のビーム Βが 2系列であって、それぞれの系列ビーム Β 1、 Β2から送り出される編成糸 Yl、 Υ2を、それぞれの系列ビーム Bl、 Β2に対応す る第 1ォサ Ll、第 2ォサ L2に 1イン 1アウト、或いは 2イン 2アウト等と規則的に通糸し て、し力も、これら 2枚のォサがーつの組織を形成し得るように互いにその通糸箇所 を補完する位置関係に設定して編成する場合には、規則的で無地調、もしくは規則 的な縦縞調の経編地を得ることができる。  [0026] In the present invention, there are two or more series of beams Β, and the knitting yarns Yl and Υ2 fed from the respective sequence beams Β1 and Β2 correspond to the respective sequence beams Bl and Β2. 1 thread 1 L1 and 2 thread 2 L2 can be regularly threaded in 1 in 1 out, 2 in 2 out, etc., and these two fibers can form a single structure. In this way, when knitting is performed by setting the positional relationship to complement the thread passing portions, a regular, plain or regular warp knitted fabric can be obtained.
[0027] 本発明にお 、て、複数系列のビーム Bが 2系列であって、それぞれの系列ビーム B 1、 B2から送り出される編成糸 Yl、 Υ2を、それぞれの系列ビーム Bl、 Β2に対応す る第 1ォサ Ll、第 2ォサ L2に、例えば 1イン、 2アウト、 2イン、 3アウト、 2インと言った ような不規則な通糸を 1リピート Rとして、これを繰り返して通糸し、し力もこれら 2枚の ォサが互いにその通糸箇所を補完しあって一つの組織を形成している場合には、多 様な縦縞調シボを有する意匠効果の高い経編地を得ることができる。 In the present invention, there are two series of beams B, and the knitting yarns Yl and Υ2 sent out from the respective series beams B1 and B2 correspond to the respective series beams Bl and Β2. Irregular threading, such as 1 in, 2 out, 2 in, 3 out, 2 in, for example, is repeated as 1 repeat R. When these two yarns complement each other through their thread passing points to form a single structure, a warp knitted fabric with a variety of vertical stripes and high design effects can be obtained. Obtainable.
[0028] 本発明にお 、て、編成する経編地の組織構成が、フロント組織 FCとミドル組織 MC とバック組織 BCの 3つの組織で構成されていて、フロント組織 FC力 請求項 1又は 2 記載の方法で形成され、ノ ック組織 BCにポリウレタン糸のような高収縮弾性糸を用 いている場合には、シボ効果を有していて、しかも高伸縮性を有する経編地が得られ 、意匠効果と機能性を併せ持つ製品展開が可能となる。  [0028] In the present invention, the organization structure of the warp knitted fabric to be knitted is composed of three organizations: a front organization FC, a middle organization MC, and a back organization BC, and the front organization FC force. When a high-shrinkage elastic yarn such as polyurethane yarn is used for the knock structure BC, a warp knitted fabric having a grain effect and having high stretchability can be obtained. It is possible to develop products that have both design effects and functionality.
[0029] 本発明において、経編機としてトリコット機を用い、フロント組織 FCをジャカードバー Jによるジャカード組織で形成し、ミドル組織 MCを請求項 1又は 2記載の方法でシボ 効果を有する組織に形成し、ノ ック組織 BCにポリウレタン糸を用いる場合には、編地 表面は無地調のジャカード柄を有していて、しかも、その表面にはミドル組織 MCに よるシボ効果が浮き出て、同時に伸縮自在の機能性を有する、柄効果とシボ効果と 機能性を併せ持つ経編地を得ることができる。  [0029] In the present invention, a tricot machine is used as the warp knitting machine, the front structure FC is formed of a jacquard structure by the jacquard bar J, and the middle structure MC is a structure having a texture effect by the method according to claim 1 or 2. When the polyurethane yarn is used for the knock structure BC, the surface of the knitted fabric has a plain jacquard pattern, and the wrinkle effect due to the middle structure MC appears on the surface. At the same time, it is possible to obtain a warp knitted fabric having both a pattern effect, a wrinkle effect, and a functionality that has a stretchable functionality.
発明を実施するための最良の形態  BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
[0030] まず、本発明の理解を容易にするために、経編機における編成糸 Yの送り出しにつ いて説明する。 [0030] First, in order to facilitate understanding of the present invention, the delivery of the knitting yarn Y in the warp knitting machine will be described.
図 1の模式図に示すように、トリコット機等の経編機の上部には、ビーム Bをセットす るためのビームシャフト BSが設置されている。  As shown in the schematic diagram of FIG. 1, a beam shaft BS for setting a beam B is installed on the upper part of a warp knitting machine such as a tricot machine.
トリコット機の場合、このビームシャフト BSは、おおよそ 2本から 4本である。 各ビームシャフト BS1、 BS2、 · ·は、それぞれ定められた速度で回転し、それぞれ のビームシャフト BSに貫通セットしたビーム Bを回転させる。  In the case of a tricot machine, the number of beam shafts BS is approximately two to four. Each of the beam shafts BS1, BS2,... Rotates at a predetermined speed, and rotates the beam B that is set to penetrate each beam shaft BS.
ビーム Bには編成糸 Yが捲かれていて、ビームシャフト BSの回転に従って編成糸 Y は送り出される。  The knitting yarn Y is wound on the beam B, and the knitting yarn Y is sent out as the beam shaft BS rotates.
ビームシャフト BSの回転は、編成速度に従って設定される。  The rotation of the beam shaft BS is set according to the knitting speed.
[0031] 次に、編成糸 Yの送り出し長の変化とシボ効果の関連について説明する。 [0031] Next, the relationship between the change in the feed length of the knitting yarn Y and the embossing effect will be described.
図 1にお 、てビーム B力 送り出される編成糸 Yは、ォサ Lを経て編針 Nに案内され 編成される。 In FIG. 1, the knitting yarn Y sent out by the beam B force is guided to the knitting needle N via the thread L. Be organized.
この時、編成糸 Yには一定の張力がかけられている。  At this time, a constant tension is applied to the knitting yarn Y.
編成速度に見合つた速度でビームシャフト BSは回転し編成糸 Yを送り出すが、もし 、ビームシャフト回転を遅めて送り出し長を少なくすれば張力は上昇し、早くして送り 出し長を多くすれば張力は低下する。  The beam shaft BS rotates at a speed commensurate with the knitting speed and feeds the knitting yarn Y. However, if the beam shaft rotation is delayed to reduce the feed length, the tension increases, and if the feed length is increased by increasing the feed speed, Tension decreases.
図 2に示すように、張力を上げれば編地の-一ドルループ NL2 (ニードルループと 編目は同意語)は小さくなり、同時にシンカーループ SL2も短くなる。  As shown in Fig. 2, when the tension is increased, the knitted fabric's one-dollar loop NL2 (needle loop and stitch are synonymous) becomes smaller, and at the same time the sinker loop SL2 becomes shorter.
また、張力を下げれば-一ドルループ NL1は大きくなり、シンカーループ SL1も長 くなる。  Also, if the tension is lowered-the one-dollar loop NL1 becomes larger and the sinker loop SL1 becomes longer.
[0032] よって、例えば、ォサ Lに通糸された編成糸 Yの張力を 1本おきに大、小、大、小と 設定すれば、図 2に示すように編地表面には大、小、大、小と大きさが変化したニー ドルループ NL1、 NL2が配列されてシボ効果が得られる。  [0032] Therefore, for example, if the tension of the knitting yarn Y passed through the yarn L is set to be large, small, large, small every other, as shown in FIG. Needle loops NL1 and NL2 with small, large, and small sizes are arranged to produce a grain effect.
また、編成糸 Yの張力を上げれば、ニードルループ NLとニードルループ NLを連絡 するシンカーループ SLも短くなることから、その組織の裏側においても長、短、長、 短と長さの異なるシンカーループ SL1、 SL2が配列される。  Also, if the tension of the knitting yarn Y is increased, the sinker loop SL that connects the needle loop NL and the needle loop NL will also be shortened. SL1 and SL2 are arranged.
シンカーループ SL2がシンカーループ SL1に比して短いことにより、その部分の- 一ドルループ NLは表側に盛り上がって編地表面にシボが発現することとなる。  When the sinker loop SL2 is shorter than the sinker loop SL1, the one-dollar loop NL rises to the front side, and the texture appears on the knitted fabric surface.
[0033] なお、本明細書において、ォサ Lとは図 1に示すようにォサ本体 LBとそのォサ本体 LBに取り付けられるガイド Gを総称してォサ Lとする。 In the present specification, “L” is a general term for “L” as shown in FIG. 1, and “G” is a general term for the “G” main body LB and the guide G attached to the “L” main body LB.
よって、ォサ Lに編成糸 Yを通糸すると言う表現は、ォサ本体 LBに取り付けられた ガイド Gに編成糸 Yを通糸する意味である。  Therefore, the expression “threading the knitting yarn Y through the thread L” means that the knitting thread Y is threaded through the guide G attached to the body LB.
また、ここに通糸とはガイド Gの穴 LHに編成糸 Yを通すことを言う。  Here, threading means passing the knitting yarn Y through the hole LH of the guide G.
[0034] 以上のことを踏まえて本発明における最良の形態を説明する。 Based on the above, the best mode of the present invention will be described.
(第 1の実施の形態)  (First embodiment)
本形態 1においては、図 3に示すように、ビーム系列を 3系列とする。  In the first embodiment, as shown in FIG. 3, there are three beam sequences.
使用するォサ Lは、編機前方から見て第 1ォサ Ll、第 2ォサ L2の 2枚を使用する。 そして、編機最前方から見て、第 1系列ビーム B1から引き出された編成糸 Y1を第 1 ォサ L1に 1本おきに通糸する。 同時に、第 2系列ビーム B2から引き出された編成糸 Y2を前記第 1ォサ LIの通糸さ れて 、な 、部分に通糸する。 The two Ls used are the first Ls Ll and the second Ls L2 as viewed from the front of the knitting machine. Then, when viewed from the forefront of the knitting machine, every other knitting yarn Y1 drawn from the first series beam B1 is passed through the first spacer L1. At the same time, the knitting yarn Y2 drawn from the second series beam B2 is passed through the first thread LI and passed through the portion.
結果的に第 1系列ビーム B1の編成糸 Y1と第 2系列ビーム B2の編成糸 Y2は、とも に第 1ォサ L1に通糸されたこととなる。  As a result, the knitting yarn Y1 of the first series beam B1 and the knitting yarn Y2 of the second series beam B2 are both passed through the first thread L1.
次に、第 3系列ビーム B3に編成糸 Y3としてポリウレタン糸 Pを使用し、これを第 2ォ サ L2に通糸する。  Next, polyurethane yarn P is used as the knitting yarn Y3 for the third series beam B3, and this is passed through the second thread L2.
[0035] このように設定した経編機によって、第 1ォサ L1では、図 8に示すコード糸且織 K(l 0/2- 3)によりフロント組織 FCを、第 2ォサ L2では、図 9に示すデンビ一組織 D (l - 2/1 -0)によりバック組織 BCを編成する。  [0035] With the warp knitting machine set in this way, in the first fabric L1, the front fabric FC is formed by the cord yarn and weaving K (l 0 / 2-3) shown in FIG. 8, and in the second fabric L2, The back organization BC is organized by the Denbi organization D (l-2/1 -0) shown in Fig. 9.
この時、第 1系列ビーム B1の編成糸 Y1の送り出し長に対して、第 2系列ビーム B2 の編成糸 Y2の送り出し長を少なくする。  At this time, the sending length of the knitting yarn Y2 of the second series beam B2 is made smaller than the sending length of the knitting yarn Y1 of the first series beam B1.
このことにより、図 8に示すように、第 2系列ビーム B2の編成糸 Y2で形成される-一 ドルループ NL2の大きさは、第 1系列ビーム B1の編成糸 Y1による-一ドルループ N L1の大きさに比較して小さくなる。  As a result, as shown in FIG. 8, the size of the one-dollar loop NL2 formed by the knitting yarn Y2 of the second series beam B2 is the same as the one-dollar loop N L1 of the first series beam B1. Smaller than
同時にシンカーループ SLも、第 1系列ビーム B1の編成糸 Y1で形成されるシン力 一ループ SL1に対して、第 2系列ビーム B2の編成糸 Y2で形成されるシンカールー プ SL2の方が短くなる。  At the same time, the sinker loop SL is also shorter in the sinker loop SL2 formed by the knitting yarn Y2 of the second series beam B2 than the thin force SL1 formed by the knitting yarn Y1 of the first series beam B1. .
[0036] この小さく形成されたニードルループ NL2は、図 8に示すように縦方向に 1列おきに 配列された状態となり縦縞調のシボ効果が得られる。  [0036] As shown in Fig. 8, the needle loops NL2 formed to be small are arranged in every other row in the vertical direction, and a vertical stripe-like embossing effect is obtained.
また、シンカーループ SL2が短くなることによりその箇所の-一ドルループ NLは盛 り上がり、このことでもシボ効果が得られる。  Also, the sinker loop SL2 becomes shorter, so that the one-dollar loop NL rises, and this also gives the grain effect.
そして、ノック組織 BCに編み込まれたポリウレタン糸 Pが高伸縮性を付与し、その 結果、図 10に示す逆ハーフと言われる、高伸縮性の経編地が得られる。  The polyurethane yarn P knitted into the knock structure BC imparts high stretchability, and as a result, a highly stretchable warp knitted fabric called reverse half shown in FIG. 10 is obtained.
[0037] 形態 1における 2系列のビーム Bl、 B2から引き出された編成糸 Yl、 Υ2を 1枚の第 1ォサ L1に通糸する方法は、シボ効果を得る手段としては充分である力 編成前の 準備作業段階にぉ ヽて困難性がある。 [0037] The method of passing the knitting yarns Yl and Υ2 drawn from the two series of beams Bl and B2 in form 1 through one first fiber L1 is a force knitting that is sufficient as a means for obtaining the grain effect. Difficulty in previous preparatory work phase.
その一つは、第 1ォサ L1には既に第 1系列ビーム B1の編成糸 Y1が導糸されてい るのでその存在が支障となって、空いたガイド Gに第 2系列ビーム Β2の編成糸 Υ2を 導糸するのが煩雑で困難な作業となる。 One of them is that the first yarn L1 already has the knitting yarn Y1 of the first beam B1 introduced into the first spacer L1, and its existence hinders the knitting yarn of the second beam Β2 to the vacant guide G. Υ2 It is complicated and difficult to introduce the yarn.
そして、他の一つに編成時の問題がある。  Another issue is the problem of organization.
それは 1枚のォサに 2系列の編成糸が導糸されている場合には、編成中に、もし数 本の編成糸が同時に切れた場合、ガイドへの通し直しにミスが生じ易ぐ修復に時間 力かかることが挙げられる。  That is, when two series of knitting yarns are introduced into one piece, if several knitting yarns break simultaneously during knitting, it is easy to make mistakes in re-passing through the guide. Takes time.
[0038] そこで、これらの問題を解決し、同様のシボ効果を得ることができる第 2の実施の形 態を示す。 [0038] Therefore, a second embodiment in which these problems can be solved and a similar grain effect can be obtained will be described.
(第 2の実施の形態)  (Second embodiment)
形態 1の手段は、編成糸 Yを送り出すビーム Bを 2系列として、使用するォサ Lは 1 枚であった。  In the form 1 means, the beam B for sending the knitting yarn Y is divided into two lines, and the number L used is one.
これに対して、形態 2では、ビーム系列ごとにォサを使用する。  On the other hand, in form 2, a beam is used for each beam sequence.
つまり、ビームが 2系列の場合は、使用するォサも 2枚となる。  In other words, if there are two beams, two disks will be used.
このことで、形態 1の作業上の問題点が解決される。  This solves the operational problems of Form 1.
[0039] 本形態 2においては、図 4に示すように、ビーム系列を 3系列とする。 In the second embodiment, as shown in FIG. 4, the beam sequence is assumed to be three sequences.
使用するォサ Lは、編機前方から見て第 1ォサ Ll、第 2ォサ L2、第 3ォサ L3の 3枚 を使用する。  As for the machine L to be used, the first machine L1, the second machine L2, and the third machine L3 are used as viewed from the front of the knitting machine.
そして、第 1系列ビーム B1から引き出された編成糸 Y1を第 1ォサ L1に 1本おき(1 イン 1アウト)に通糸する。  Then, the knitting yarn Y1 pulled out from the first series beam B1 is passed through the first spacer L1 every other yarn (1 in 1 out).
同時に、第 2系列ビーム B2から引き出された編成糸 Y2を第 2ォサ L2にやはり、 1ィ ン 1アウトで通糸する。  At the same time, the knitting yarn Y2 drawn from the second series beam B2 is also passed through the second thread L2 in 1 in 1 out.
次に、第 3系列ビーム B3に編成糸 Y3としてポリウレタン糸 Pを使用し、これを第 3ォ サ L3にすベて通糸する。  Next, the polyurethane yarn P is used as the knitting yarn Y3 for the third series beam B3, and this is passed through the third thread L3.
[0040] そして、第 1ォサ L1の通糸してないガイド部分に第 2ォサ L2の通糸したガイド部分 が位置するように設定する。 [0040] Then, the guide portion through which the second thread L2 is threaded is set so as to be positioned in the guide section through which the first thread L1 is not threaded.
つまり、第 1、第 2の 2枚のォサで互いにその通糸箇所を補完しあって、 1枚のォサ に 2系列の編成糸を 1本交互に通糸した形態 1と同様の通糸状態を得る。  In other words, the same thread as in Form 1 in which the first and second threads are complemented with each other, and two series of knitting threads are alternately threaded through one thread. Get the yarn state.
[0041] ここで、この補完について詳細に説明する。 Here, this complement will be described in detail.
図 7 (A)に、第 1ォサ L1と第 2ォサ L2の通糸状態を模式的に示す。 つまり、ォサ Lのガイド Gに通糸した箇所を〇印で示し、通糸してないガイド箇所は X印で示す。 Fig. 7 (A) schematically shows the threading state of the first spacer L1 and the second spacer L2. In other words, the points where the thread is passed through the guide G of the thread L are indicated by 〇, and the guide points where the thread is not threaded are indicated by X.
第 1ォサ L1の通糸した箇所に対応する第 2ォサ L2の箇所は通糸されていない。 また、反対に、第 1ォサ L1の通糸してない箇所に対応する第 2ォサ L2の箇所には 通糸されている。  The portion of the second thread L2 that corresponds to the thread passage of the first thread L1 is not threaded. On the other hand, the second thread L2 corresponding to the position where the first thread L1 is not threaded is threaded.
つまり、 2枚のォサをあわせて 1枚のォサの機能を果たしていることとなる。 これを本明細書では互いに補完すると言うこととする。  In other words, the two discs are combined to perform the function of one disc. In the present specification, these are complementary to each other.
[0042] このように設置された第 1、第 2の 2枚のォサを全く同一に作動させて一つの組織、 つまり、本実施の形態ではフロント組織 FCとしてコード組織 K ( 1— 0Z2— 3)を形成 する。 [0042] The two first and second disks installed in this way are operated in exactly the same manner, that is, in this embodiment, in the present embodiment, the cord organization K (1-0Z2— 3) is formed.
そして、第 1系列ビーム B1の編成糸 Y1の送り出し長に対して、第 2系列ビーム B2 の編成糸 Y2の送り出し長を少なくし、形態 1と同様にシボ効果を得る。  Then, the feed length of the knitting yarn Y2 of the second series beam B2 is reduced with respect to the feed length of the knitting yarn Y1 of the first series beam B1, and the embossing effect is obtained as in the first mode.
カロえて、第 3ォサ L3ではバック糸且織 BCとしてデンビ一糸且織 D (1— 2/1 -0)を形 成して、これら 2つの糸且織で逆ハーフ(図 10)と言われる糸且織が形成されるのも形態 1 と同様である。  In the 3rd Losa L3, denbi yarn and weaving D (1-2/1 -0) is formed as a back yarn and weaving BC, and these two yarns and weaving are called reverse half (Fig. 10). The same thread and weave is formed as in Form 1.
[0043] 上記した 2つの最良の実施形態は、 、ずれも利点を有して 、る。  [0043] The two best embodiments described above also have advantages.
つまり、前者は、準備作業性、並びに編成中の糸切れ時に問題を有するものの、 2 系列のビームから引き出された編成糸が 1枚のォサに通糸されるので、ォサ枚数が 少なくて済む利点がある。  In other words, the former has problems with preparation workability and yarn breakage during knitting, but the knitting yarn drawn from the two series of beams is passed through one thread, so the number of threads is small. There is an advantage to end.
このことは特にトリコット機のようにォサ枚数が 2枚〜 4枚等と少ない機種には大きな 利点となる。  This is a great advantage especially for models with a small number of presses, such as 2 to 4, such as tricot machines.
[0044] これに対して後者は、系列ビーム毎にォサを使用するのでォサ枚数は、その分多く なるが、準備作業性が良い点や、編成時の糸切れ管理等に利便性を発揮する。 また、事情により、複数系列のビームの内、 1系列のみ取り替えたい場合には、 1系 列のビームに 1枚のォサとなっているので取り替えに問題が生じない利点もある。  [0044] On the other hand, since the latter uses a fiber for each series beam, the number of fibers increases correspondingly. However, the preparation workability is good and the convenience for thread breakage management at the time of knitting is improved. Demonstrate. Also, depending on the circumstances, if you want to replace only one of the multiple beams, there is an advantage that there will be no problem with replacement because there is only one support for each beam.
[0045] 本実施の形態において、形態 1では、第 1ォサ L1と第 2ォサ L2の 2枚のォサで、フ ロント組織 FCとバック組織 BCを組み合わせた逆ハーフ組織の経編地を編成する。 これに対し、形態 2では、第 1ォサ Ll、第 2ォサ L2、第 3ォサ L3の 3枚ォサが使用さ れるものの、組織の面から見ると、第 1ォサ L1と第 2ォサ L2で一つのフロント組織 FC が編成され、第 3ォサ L3でバック組織 BCが編成されて 、る。 [0045] In the present embodiment, in Mode 1, the warp knitted fabric of an inverted half structure in which the front structure FC and the back structure BC are combined with the first texture L1 and the second texture L2. Organize. On the other hand, in the form 2, the first user Ll, the second user L2, and the third user L3 are used. However, from the organizational point of view, the first organization L1 and the second organization L2 form one front organization FC, and the third organization L3 forms the back organization BC.
つまり、形態 2の場合には、第 1ォサ L1と第 2ォサ L2の 2枚のォサが形態 1での第 1 ォサ L1と同様の働きをすることとなる。  In other words, in the case of Form 2, the two authors, the first author L1 and the second author L2, function in the same manner as the first author L1 in the form 1.
[0046] ここで、形態 2につ 、ては、一つの糸且織を編成するために、必ずしも 2系列のビーム と 2枚のォサを使用することに限定されず、編機事情の許す限り、 3系列のビームと 3 枚のォサ、或いは 4系列のビームと 4枚のォサを使用して一つの組織を編成すること が可能である。 [0046] Here, for Form 2, it is not necessarily limited to using two series of beams and two fibers for knitting one yarn and weaving, but allows for knitting machine circumstances. As long as it is possible to form a single tissue using 3 series beams and 3 fibers, or 4 series beams and 4 fibers.
ここで、一つの組織とは、経編機において 1枚のォサを作動させて編成し得る組織 を言う。  Here, one organization refers to an organization that can be knitted by operating one web on a warp knitting machine.
このようにビーム系列とその対応ォサを増加させることにより、更に複雑なシボ効果 を得ることが可能となる。  By increasing the number of beam sequences and their correspondences in this way, it is possible to obtain a more complex grain effect.
また、形態 形態 2において、その通糸に関して、 1イン 1アウトのように基本的なも のから、例えば 1イン、 2アウト、 2イン、 1アウト、 3インと言ったような通糸を 1リピートと して、これを繰り返して通糸し、更に複雑なシボ効果を得ることが可能となり広範囲の 製品開発が可能となる。  Also, in Form 2, the threading is basic, such as 1 in 1 out, so for example, 1 in, 2 out, 2 in, 1 out, 3 in As a repeat, this process can be repeated to obtain a more complex grain effect, enabling a wide range of product development.
[0047] 以下、本発明の実施例を示す。 [0047] Examples of the present invention will be described below.
(実施例 1)  (Example 1)
本実施例においては、経編機としてトリコット機 (株式会社カール'マイヤー製、タイ プ KS3G9)を用いる。  In the present embodiment, a tricot machine (manufactured by Karl Meyer, type KS3G9) is used as the warp knitting machine.
構成は形態 1と同様である。  The configuration is the same as in Form 1.
図 3に示すようにビームは 3系列を使用する。  As shown in Fig. 3, three beams are used.
第 1系列ビーム B1と第 2系列ビーム B2はフロント組織 FCを編成するのに使用し、 第 3系列ビーム B3はバック組織 BCを編成するのに用いる。  The first sequence beam B1 and the second sequence beam B2 are used to form the front structure FC, and the third sequence beam B3 is used to form the back structure BC.
フロント組織 FCはデンビ一組織 D (1— 0/1— 2)とし、バック組織 BCもデンビ一組 織0 (1—2 1 0)とする。  The front organization FC is Denbi organization D (1—0 / 1—2), and the back organization BC is also Denbi organization 0 (1—2 1 0).
編成糸 Yとして、フロント組織 FCにナイロン 'ウーリー糸(株式会社東レ · 78(1ΪΘΧΖ2 4フィラメント)、バック組織 BCにポリウレタン糸 Ρ (株式会社東レ 'ロイ力 44dtex)を用 いる。 For the knitting yarn Y, nylon 'Woolie yarn (Toray · 78 (1ΪΘΧΖ2 4 filament)' is used for the front fabric FC, and polyurethane yarn Ρ (Toray 'Roy force 44dtex) is used for the back fabric BC. Yes.
[0048] また、使用ォサは、第 1ォサ L1と第 2ォサ L2とバックォサ L3の計 3枚を使用し、第 1 ォサ L1と第 2ォサ L2への通糸は、図 7 (B)に示すように共に 2イン 2アウトとし、互い にその通糸箇所を補完し得る位置関係に設定する。  [0048] In addition, a total of three sheets of the first user L1, the second user L2, and the backer L3 are used, and the thread passing through the first user L1 and the second user L2 is illustrated in the figure. 7 As shown in (B), set both to 2 in and 2 out so that they can complement each other.
そして、バックォサ L3にはすべて通糸する。  And all the backsosa L3 is threaded.
[0049] このように設定したトリコット機において、第 2系列ビーム B2からの編成糸 Y2の送り 出し長を、第 1系列ビーム B1からの編成糸 Y1の送り出し長より少なくして編成するこ とで、図 11〖こ示すよう〖こ、ニードノレノレープ NL2の大きさとシンカーノレープ SL2の長さ が小さくなる。  [0049] In the tricot machine set as described above, the knitting yarn Y2 feed length from the second series beam B2 is knitted to be shorter than the feed length of the knitting yarn Y1 from the first series beam B1. As shown in Fig. 11, the size of the needle crepe NL2 and the length of the sinker crease SL2 are reduced.
また、 2イン 2アウトで通糸しているので、縦縞調のシボ効果を有する経編地が得ら れる。  In addition, since the yarn is passed in 2 in 2 out, a warp knitted fabric having a vertical stripe texture effect can be obtained.
[0050] (実施例 2)  [0050] (Example 2)
本実施例においては、経編機としてトリコット機 (株式会社カール'マイヤー製、タイ プ KS4G8)を用いる。  In this embodiment, a tricot machine (manufactured by KARL'MYER, type KS4G8) is used as the warp knitting machine.
図 5に示すように本トリコット機は 4枚ォサを有する。  As shown in Fig. 5, this tricot machine has four plates.
ビームは 4系列を使用する。  The beam uses 4 series.
第 1系列ビーム B1と第 2系列ビーム B2と第 3系列ビーム B3をフロント糸且織 FCを編 成するのに使用し、第 4系列ビーム B4はバック組織 BCを編成するのに使用する。 フロント組織 FCは、デンビ一組織 D (l— OZ1— 2)とし、バック組織 BCもデンビ一 組織(1— 2Z1— 0)とする。  The first series beam B1, the second series beam B2, and the third series beam B3 are used for knitting the front yarn and weave FC, and the fourth series beam B4 is used for knitting the back structure BC. The front organization FC is the Denbi organization D (l-OZ1-2) and the back organization BC is the Denbi organization (1-2Z1-0).
編成糸 Yとして、フロント組織 FCにナイロン 'ウーリー糸(株式会社東レ · 78(1ΪΘΧΖ2 4フィラメント)、バック組織 BCにポリウレタン糸 Ρ (株式会社東レ 'ロイ力 44dtex)を用 いる。  As the knitting yarn Y, nylon 'Woolley yarn (Toray · 78 (1ΪΘΧΖ2 4 filament)' is used for the front fabric FC and polyurethane yarn (Toray 'Roy force 44dtex) is used for the back fabric BC.
[0051] 編機前方より、第 1ォサ Ll、第 2ォサ L2、第 3ォサ L3への通糸は、図 7 (D)に示す ように、すべて 1イン 2アウトとし、これら 3枚のォサを互いにその通糸箇所を補完して すべての編針 Nに編成糸 Yが供給されるように順次ずらして設定する。  [0051] From the front of the knitting machine, the first thread Ll, the second thread L2, and the third thread L3 are all threaded 1 in 2 as shown in Fig. 7 (D). The yarns are set so as to be offset sequentially so that the knitting yarns Y are supplied to all the knitting needles N by complementing the thread passing points.
このことで、 3枚のォサは、互いに補完しあって 1枚のォサにすベて通糸した状態を 得る。 そして、第 1、第 2、第 3系列のビーム Bl、 B2、 B3力もの編成糸 Yl、 Υ2、 Υ3の送り 出し長を大、中、小と 3段階として編成する。 In this way, the three blades complement each other and get a state where all the yarns are threaded. Then, the first, second, and third series of beams Bl, B2, and B3 are knitted with three knitting yarns Yl, Υ2, and Υ3 as the feed lengths of large, medium, and small.
その結果、図 12に示すようにフロント糸且織 FCの-一ドルループ NLの大きさとシン カーループ SLの長さが大中小の 3種類となり、更に意匠効果豊カな経編地を得るこ とがでさる。  As a result, as shown in Fig. 12, there are three types of front yarn and weave FC-one dollar loop NL size and sinker loop SL length of large, medium and small, and a warp knitted fabric with a rich design effect can be obtained. I'll do it.
[0052] (実施例 3) [0052] (Example 3)
本実施例においては、経編機としてトリコット機 (株式会社カール'マイヤー製、ジャ カードタイプ)を用いる。  In this embodiment, a tricot machine (manufactured by Karl Meyer, Jacquard type) is used as the warp knitting machine.
図 6に示すように、本トリコット機はジャカードバー Jを有していて、これを含めて 4枚 ォサを有する。  As shown in Fig. 6, this tricot machine has a jacquard bar J, and it has four sheets including this.
4枚ォサは、編機前方から見て、ジャカードバー J、第 2ォサ L2、第 3ォサ L3、第 4ォ サ L4である。  The four sheets are jacquard bar J, second section L2, third section L3, and fourth section L4 as viewed from the front of the knitting machine.
ビームは 4系列を使用する。  The beam uses 4 series.
第 1系列ビー B1ムはジャカードバー Jに使用し、このジャカードバー Jで編成される 組織をフロント組織 FCとする。  The first series B B1 is used for the jacquard bar J, and the organization formed by this jacquard bar J is the front organization FC.
第 2系列ビーム B2と第 3系列ビーム B3は、互いに補完しあってミドル組織 MCを編 成するのに使用する。  The second series beam B2 and the third series beam B3 complement each other and are used to form the middle structure MC.
第 4系列ビーム B4はノック組織 BCを編成するのに使用する。  The fourth series beam B4 is used to form the knock tissue BC.
[0053] ジャカードバー Jは、デンビ一組織 D (l— 2Zl— 0)とコード組織 K(l— OZ2— 3) とを任意に選択編成できる機構となっていて無地調のジャカード柄を編成する。 第 2、第 3系列ビーム Β2、 Β3から引き出される編成糸 Υ2、 Υ3は、それぞれ第 2ォ サ L2と第 3ォサ L3に案内され、 1イン 1アウトに通糸され、互いにその通糸箇所を補 完し得る位置調整がなされ、ミドル組織 MC (コード組織 Κ)を形成する。 [0053] The jacquard bar J is a mechanism that can arbitrarily select and knitting the Denbi organization D (l-2Zl-0) and the chord organization K (l- OZ2-3). Organize. The knitting yarns Υ2 and Υ3 drawn from the second and third series beams Β2 and Β3 are guided to the second thread L2 and the third thread L3, respectively, and passed through 1 in 1 out, and the threading points of each other The position is adjusted to compensate for the middle structure MC (code structure Κ).
そして編成糸 Υ2、 Υ3の送り出し長に差を付けてシボ効果を得る。  The wrinkle effect is obtained by making a difference in the feed length of the knitting yarns Υ2 and Υ3.
ノック組織 BCはデンビ一組織 Dとなっている。  Knock Organization BC is Denbi Organization D.
編成糸 Υとしては、フロント組織 FC、ミドル組織 MCにナイロン 'ウーリー糸(株式会 社東レ · 78dtexZ 24フィラメント)、ノ ック組織 BCにポリウレタン糸 P (株式会社東レ · ロイ力 44dtex)を用いる。 [0054] 本実施例の場合は、シボ効果を発揮する組織の前にジャカードバー Jによるジャカ ード柄のフロント組織 FCが存在していて、表面に無地調のジャカード柄があり、しか もその内部力もシボ効果を浮き出させる従来にない伸縮性シボジャカード経編地が 得られる。 As the knitting yarn, nylon 'wooly yarn (Toray 78dtexZ 24 filament) is used for the front structure FC and middle structure MC, and polyurethane yarn P (Toray Roy Corporation 44dtex) is used for the knock structure BC. [0054] In the case of this example, there is a jacquard pattern front structure FC by jacquard bar J in front of the structure that exhibits the grain effect, and there is a plain jacquard pattern on the surface. As a result, an unconventional stretchable wart jacquard warp knitted fabric with its internal force highlighting the wrinkle effect can be obtained.
[0055] (実施例 4)  [Example 4]
本実施例は、上記実施例 1と同様の設定(図 4)であるが、フロント組織 FCを編成す るための第 1ォサ L1と第 2ォサ L2への通糸方法は、図 7 (C)にしめすように第 1ォサ L1に 1アウト、 2イン、 1アウト、 1イン、 2アウト、 1インと不規則に通糸して、これを 1リピ ート Rとして繰り返す。  This example has the same settings as in Example 1 above (Fig. 4), but the method of threading the first fabric L1 and the second fabric L2 for knitting the front fabric FC is shown in Fig. 7. As shown in (C), 1 thread, 1 line, 1 line, 1 line, 1 line, 1 line, 1 line, 1 line, 1 line, etc. are threaded irregularly and repeated as 1 repeat R.
そして第 2ォサ L2には 1イン、 2アウト、 1イン、 1アウト、 2イン、 1アウトとして、これを 繰り返す。  And for 2nd Losa L1, repeat this as 1 in, 2 out, 1 in, 1 out, 2 in, 1 out.
2枚のォサは互いにその通糸箇所を補完し得る位置関係に設定され、これら 2枚の ォサを同一作動させて、コード組織 Kを編成する。  The two cords are set in a positional relationship that can complement their threading points, and the cord fabric K is knitted by operating these two cords in the same manner.
このような設定で編成された経編地は、縦縞に特徴のあるシボ効果を有する経編地 となる。  The warp knitted fabric knitted with such a setting becomes a warp knitted fabric having a wrinkle effect characteristic of vertical stripes.
[0056] (実施例 5) [Example 5]
本実施例は、 4枚のォサを使用する。  In this embodiment, four disks are used.
図 1に示すように、第 1ォサ L1と第 2ォサ L2でフロント組織 FC (コード組織 K)を編 成する。  As shown in Fig. 1, the front organization FC (code organization K) is formed by the first user L1 and the second user L2.
そして、第 1系列ビーム B1には右撚りのナイロン 'ウーリー糸の加撚糸 (株式会社東 レ ' 78dtexZ24フィラメント、 S800TZM)を用い、第 2系列ビーム B2には左撚りの ナイロン.ウーリー糸の加撚糸(株式会社東レ ' 78dtexZ 24フィラメント、 Z800T/M )を用いる。  The first series beam B1 uses right-twisted nylon 'wooly yarn twisted yarn (Toray' 78dtexZ24 filament, S800TZM), and the second series beam B2 uses left-twisted nylon. (Toray Industries, Inc. '78dtexZ 24 filament, Z800T / M) is used.
更に、第 1系列ビーム B1からの編成糸 Y1の送り出し長と、第 2系列ビーム B2から の編成糸の送り出し長に差を付け-一ドルループ NLの大きさとシンカーループ SL の長さを異ならせてシボ効果を得る。  In addition, the difference between the feed length of the knitting yarn Y1 from the first series beam B1 and the feed length of the knitting yarn from the second series beam B2 is made different from that of the one-dollar loop NL and the length of the sinker loop SL. Gets the grain effect.
[0057] 同時に第 3ォサ L3により編成糸 Y3を用いてミドル組織 MC (デンビ一組織 D)を編 成する。 そして、第 4ォサ L4により、編成糸 Y4であるポリウレタン糸 P (株式会社東レ 'ロイ力 44dtex)を用いてバック組織 BC (デンビ一組織 D)を編成する。 [0057] At the same time, the middle structure MC (Denbi structure D) is knitted by the third thread L3 using the knitting yarn Y3. Then, the back structure BC (Denbi structure D) is knitted by the fourth thread L4 using the polyurethane yarn P (Toray Industries, Inc., 44 dtex) which is the knitting yarn Y4.
このようにして編成することで、使用する加撚糸が有する解撚トルク等によるシボ効 果と本発明によるシボ発現効果が相まって一層、シボ効果のある経編地が得られる。 このように本発明は、異収縮混繊糸ゃ加撚糸等のようにそれ自体でシボ効果を発 揮し得る糸と併用して実施することが可能であり、そのことにより一層のシボ効果や意 匠効果が得られる。  By knitting in this way, a warp knitted fabric having a wrinkle effect can be obtained by combining the wrinkle effect due to the untwisting torque or the like of the twisted yarn used and the wrinkle expression effect of the present invention. As described above, the present invention can be carried out in combination with yarns that can exert a grain effect by themselves, such as a different shrinkage mixed yarn or a twisted yarn. Design effect is obtained.
産業上の利用可能性  Industrial applicability
[0058] 本発明は、トリコット地等の経編地の表面にシボ効果を得るための編成方法に利用 され、又、編地表面にシボ効果を有する経編地にも利用される。 [0058] The present invention is used in a knitting method for obtaining a wrinkle effect on the surface of a warp knitted fabric such as a tricot fabric, and is also used for a warp knitted fabric having a wrinkle effect on the surface of the knitted fabric.
そして、その原理を用いる限り、他の編成方法や他の経編地にも適用可能である。 図面の簡単な説明  And as long as the principle is used, it can be applied to other knitting methods and other warp knitted fabrics. Brief Description of Drawings
[0059] [図 1]図 1は、経編機の構成概要図、並びに兼ねて実施例 5の説明図である。 [0059] FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of the configuration of a warp knitting machine, and also an explanatory diagram of Example 5.
[図 2]図 2は、編成糸 Yの送り出し長の変化とシボ効果の関連についての説明図であ る。  [FIG. 2] FIG. 2 is an explanatory view of the relationship between the change in the feed length of the knitting yarn Y and the grain effect.
[図 3]図 3は、 1枚ォサ使用の本発明の実施概要図である。  [FIG. 3] FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram showing the implementation of the present invention using a single sheet.
[図 4]図 4は、 2枚ォサ使用の本発明の実施概要図である。  [FIG. 4] FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram showing the implementation of the present invention using two sheets.
[図 5]図 5は、 3枚ォサ使用の本発明の実施概要図である。  [FIG. 5] FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram of the implementation of the present invention using three sheets.
[図 6]図 6は、ジャカードバー Jを用いた本発明の実施概要図である。  FIG. 6 is a schematic diagram showing the implementation of the present invention using a jacquard bar J.
[図 7]図 7は、ォサに対する通糸状態の説明模式図である。  [FIG. 7] FIG. 7 is an explanatory schematic view of a thread passing state with respect to a cord.
[図 8]図 8は、コード糸且織図である。  FIG. 8 is a cord yarn and weave drawing.
[図 9]図 9は、デンビ一組織図である。  [FIG. 9] FIG. 9 is an organization chart of Denbi.
[図 10]図 10は、逆ハーフの組織図である。  [FIG. 10] FIG. 10 is a reverse half organization chart.
[図 11]図 11は、 2イン 2アウトでの本発明に係る組織図である。  FIG. 11 is an organization chart according to the present invention with 2 in 2 out.
[図 12]図 12は、大中小の-一ドルループを有する本発明に係る組織図である。 符号の説明  [FIG. 12] FIG. 12 is an organization chart according to the present invention having a large, medium, and small-one dollar loop. Explanation of symbols
[0060] B (B1、 B2、 B3、 B4) ビーム [0060] B (B1, B2, B3, B4) beam
BS (BS1、 BS2、 BS3、 BS4)ビームシャフト Y(Y1、 Y2、 Y3、 Y4) 編成糸BS (BS1, BS2, BS3, BS4) beam shaft Y (Y1, Y2, Y3, Y4) Knitting yarn
Ρ ポリウレタン糸 Ρ Polyurethane thread
L (L1, L2、 L3、 L4)ォサ L (L1, L2, L3, L4)
LB ォサ本体 LB osa
G ガイド、  G guide,
LH ガイド穴  LH guide hole
N ニードル  N needle
NL (NL1、NL2) ニードルループ NL (NL1, NL2) Needle loop
SL (SL1, SL2) シンカーループSL (SL1, SL2) sinker loop
FC フロント,袓織 FC front, woven
MC ミドル組織  MC middle organization
BC ノ ック糸且織  BC knock yarn and weave
J ジャカードバー  J jacquard bar
R 1リピート  R 1 repeat
K コード組織  K code organization
D デンビ一組織  D Denbi Organization

Claims

請求の範囲 The scope of the claims
[1] 経編機で経編地を編成する際、一つの組織の形成に用いる編成糸を複数系列の ビームに分散し、それぞれの系列ビーム力 送り出される編成糸を 1枚のォサに通糸 して編成すると同時に、系列ビーム毎の編成糸を、その送り出し長に差を付けて送り 出し、それぞれの系列ビームに属する編成糸が形成する-一ドルループの大きさ、 並びにシンカーループの長さを異ならせることにより編地表面にシボを発現すること を特徴とする経編地の編成方法。  [1] When knitting a warp knitted fabric with a warp knitting machine, the knitting yarns used to form a single structure are dispersed into multiple series beams, and the knitting yarns sent out from each series beam force are passed through a single fabric. At the same time as knitting, the knitting yarn for each series beam is sent out with a difference in the feed length, and the knitting yarn belonging to each series beam forms-the size of one dollar loop, and the length of the sinker loop A warp knitted fabric knitting method characterized by expressing wrinkles on the surface of the knitted fabric by making different.
[2] 経編機で経編地を編成する際、一つの組織の形成に用いる編成糸を複数系列の ビームに分散し、それぞれの系列ビーム力も送り出される編成糸を、それぞれの系列 ビームに対応して配設されたそれぞれのォサに、互いにその通糸箇所を補完する位 置関係に通糸して、それぞれのォサをすベて同一作動させて一つの組織を編成す ると同時に、系列ビーム毎の編成糸を、その送り出し長に差をつけて送り出し、それ ぞれの系列ビームに属する編成糸が形成する-一ドルループの大きさ、並びにシン カーループの長さを異ならせることにより編地表面にシボを発現することを特徴とする 経編地の編成方法。  [2] When knitting a warp knitted fabric with a warp knitting machine, the knitting yarn used to form a single structure is dispersed into multiple series beams, and the knitting yarns that send out each series beam force are also compatible with each series beam. Thread each thread placed in a positional relationship that complements the threading location with each other, and knitting a single structure by operating all the threads in the same manner. The knitting yarn for each series beam is sent out with a difference in the delivery length, and the knitting yarn belonging to each series beam forms-by varying the size of the one-dollar loop and the length of the sinker loop. A method for knitting a warp knitted fabric, characterized in that a texture is expressed on the surface of the knitted fabric.
[3] 複数系列のビームが 2系列であって、それぞれの系列ビーム力も送り出された編成 糸力 それぞれの系列ビームに対応する 2枚のォサに、互いにその通糸箇所を補完 しあう位置関係に、それぞれ通糸されていることを特徴とする請求項 2記載の経編地 の編成方法。  [3] There are two series of beams, and the knitting yarn force that each series beam force is also sent out. Positional relationship that complements the threading points of the two yarns corresponding to each series beam. The warp knitted fabric knitting method according to claim 2, wherein the yarns are respectively threaded.
[4] 複数系列のビームが 3系列であって、それぞれの系列ビーム力も送り出された編成 糸力 それぞれの系列ビームに対応する 3枚のォサに、互いにその通糸箇所を補完 しあう位置関係に、それぞれ通糸されていることを特徴とする請求項 2記載の経編地 の編成方法。  [4] The knitting yarn force in which multiple series of beams are 3 series, and each series beam force is also sent out. Positional relationship that complements the threading points of the three yarns corresponding to each series beam. The warp knitted fabric knitting method according to claim 2, wherein the yarns are respectively threaded.
[5] 一つの組織がコード組織(1— 0Z2— 3)であることを特徴とする請求項 1又は 2記 載の経編地の編成方法。  [5] The method for knitting a warp knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein one organization is a cord organization (1-0Z2-3).
[6] 一つの組織がデンビ一組織(1— 0Z1— 2)であることを特徴とする請求項 1又は 2 記載の経編地の編成方法。 6. The method for knitting a warp knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein one structure is a denbi structure (1-0Z1-2).
[7] 複数系列のビームが 2系列であって、それぞれの系列ビーム力も送り出された編成 糸力 それぞれの系列ビームに対応する 2枚のォサに、互いにその通糸箇所を補完 しあう位置関係に、それぞれ 1イン 1アウトで通糸されていることを特徴とする請求項 3 記載の経編地の編成方法。 [7] There are two series of beams, and each series beam force is also sent out. 4. The yarn force according to claim 3, wherein two yarns corresponding to each series beam are threaded in a 1-in-1-out manner in a positional relationship that mutually complements their threading locations. The knitting method of warp knitted fabric.
[8] 複数系列のビームが 2系列であって、それぞれの系列ビーム力も送り出された編成 糸力 それぞれの系列ビームに対応する 2枚のォサに、互いにその通糸箇所を補完 しあう位置関係に、それぞれ 2イン 2アウトで通糸されていることを特徴とする請求項 3 記載の経編地の編成方法。  [8] There are two series of beams, and each series beam force is also sent out. Knitting thread force Position relationship that complements the threading points of the two yarns corresponding to each series beam. The warp knitting method according to claim 3, wherein the yarns are threaded in 2-in-2-out each.
[9] 複数系列のビームが 2系列であって、それぞれの系列ビーム力も送り出された編成 糸力 それぞれの系列ビームに対応する 2枚のォサに、互いにその通糸箇所を補完 しあう位置関係に、不規則に通糸されていることを特徴とする請求項 3記載の経編地 の編成方法。  [9] There are two series of beams, and each series beam force is also sent out. Knitting yarn force Position relationship that complements the threading points of the two yarns corresponding to each series beam. The warp knitted fabric knitting method according to claim 3, wherein the yarn is irregularly threaded.
[10] それぞれの系列ビーム力も送り出される編成糸が、一方が右撚りの加撚糸であって 、他方が左撚りの加撚糸であることを特徴とする請求項 7、 8、又は 9記載の経編地の 編成方法。  [10] The warp according to claim 7, 8, or 9, wherein one of the knitting yarns to which each series beam force is also sent is a right-twisted twisted yarn and the other is a left-twisted twisted yarn. How to knit the knitted fabric.
[11] フロント組織とミドル組織とバック組織とで形成される経編地であって、フロント組織 が請求項 1又は 2記載の編成方法により形成されるシボ効果を発現する組織であつ て、該フロント組織と、ミドル組織とバック組織とを組み合わせ編成して得られることを 特徴とする経編地。  [11] A warp knitted fabric formed of a front structure, a middle structure, and a back structure, wherein the front structure is a tissue that exhibits the grain effect formed by the knitting method according to claim 1 or 2, A warp knitted fabric obtained by knitting a front organization, a middle organization and a back organization.
[12] ノ ック糸且織がデンビ一糸且織(l— OZl— 2)であって、その編成糸がポリウレタン糸 であることを特徴とする請求項 11記載の経編地。  12. The warp knitted fabric according to claim 11, wherein the knock yarn and weaving is Denbi single yarn and weaving (l-OZl-2), and the knitting yarn is a polyurethane yarn.
[13] フロント組織とミドル組織とバック組織とで形成される経編地であって、フロント組織 がジャカードバーで編成されるジャカード糸且織であり、ミドル組織が請求項 1又は 2記 載の編成方法により形成されるシボ効果を発現する組織であり、ノ ック組織がデンビ 一糸且織(1— OZ1— 2)で、し力もその編成糸がポリウレタン糸であることを特徴とする 経編地。  [13] A warp knitted fabric formed of a front structure, a middle structure, and a back structure, wherein the front structure is a jacquard yarn and weave knitted by a jacquard bar, and the middle structure is claimed in claim 1 or 2. It is a structure that produces the grain effect formed by the knitting method described above, characterized in that the knock structure is Denbi monofilament and weave (1-OZ1-2), and the knitting yarn is polyurethane yarn. Warp knitted fabric.
PCT/JP2006/305988 2005-03-25 2006-03-24 Knitting method of warp knitted fabric, and warp knitted fabric WO2006104047A1 (en)

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CN102851842A (en) * 2012-09-19 2013-01-02 安徽宏祥丝绸织造有限公司 Modified process of crepe de Chine 12131
JP6071437B2 (en) * 2012-11-05 2017-02-01 福井経編興業株式会社 Uneven elastic tricot knitted fabric and manufacturing method thereof
CN103820903B (en) * 2013-12-30 2017-09-08 杭州班瑞纺织有限公司 A kind of composite spinning and its fabric with special-shaped silk
JP2019135336A (en) * 2018-02-05 2019-08-15 北陸エステアール協同組合 Stretchable warp knitted fabric

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