TWM650185U - Knitted fabric with concave-convex pattern - Google Patents
Knitted fabric with concave-convex pattern Download PDFInfo
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- TWM650185U TWM650185U TW112210088U TW112210088U TWM650185U TW M650185 U TWM650185 U TW M650185U TW 112210088 U TW112210088 U TW 112210088U TW 112210088 U TW112210088 U TW 112210088U TW M650185 U TWM650185 U TW M650185U
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Abstract
Description
本新型一般係關於一種針織物,具體而言,本新型係關於一種具有針織後自然成型的凹凸圖紋的針織物。The present invention generally relates to a knitted fabric. Specifically, the present invention relates to a knitted fabric with a concave and convex pattern that is naturally formed after knitting.
習知針織物要形成凹凸狀圖紋時,通常是使用具有預定圖紋的模具對針織物的平面進行熱壓,進而在針織物的平面上產生對應預定圖紋的凹凸狀區域。然而,此種熱壓形成凹凸圖紋的方式不僅需要另外開模使成本顯著增加,還需額外耗費工時進行加工程序,使得產能降低並增加產品產生瑕疵的可能性。Conventionally, when a concave-convex pattern is to be formed on a knitted fabric, a mold with a predetermined pattern is usually used to heat-press the plane of the knitted fabric, thereby producing concave-convex areas corresponding to the predetermined pattern on the plane of the knitted fabric. However, this method of forming concave and convex patterns by hot pressing not only requires additional mold opening, which significantly increases the cost, but also requires additional man-hours for processing procedures, which reduces production capacity and increases the possibility of product defects.
本新型之一目的在於提供一種針織物,其具有經設計的組織結構,在針織完成後具有自然成型的凹凸圖紋。One purpose of the present invention is to provide a knitted fabric with a designed organizational structure and a naturally formed concave and convex pattern after the knitting is completed.
本新型之另一目的在於提供一種針織物,其組織結構係由熱塑性聚氨酯(thermoplastic polyurethane,TPU)紗線構成,可被完全再利用,增進對環境的友善性。Another object of the present invention is to provide a knitted fabric whose structural structure is composed of thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) yarns and can be completely reused to improve environmental friendliness.
於一實施例,本新型提供一種針織物,其由至少三組熱塑性聚氨酯(TPU)紗線織成,該針織物具有相對的技術正面及技術背面並包含凹凸圖紋區及與凹凸圖紋區延續編織的平面區,其中:在平面區中,技術正面的紗圈與技術背面的紗圈為一對一對應設置;在凹凸圖紋區中,技術正面包含的紗圈數少於技術背面包含的紗圈數,使得凹凸圖紋區相對於平面區朝技術背面的方向拱起。In one embodiment, the present invention provides a knitted fabric woven from at least three groups of thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) yarns. The knitted fabric has opposite technical front surfaces and technical back surfaces and includes a concave and convex pattern area and a concave and convex pattern area. The flat area that continues the knitting, where: in the flat area, the yarn loops on the technical front and the yarn loops on the technical back are arranged in a one-to-one correspondence; in the concave-convex pattern area, the number of yarn loops contained on the technical front is less than that on the technical back. The number of yarn turns makes the concave and convex pattern area arch toward the back of the technology relative to the flat area.
於一實施例,至少三組TPU紗線包含第一組TPU紗線、第二組TPU紗線及第三組TPU紗線,且第一組TPU紗線、第二組TPU紗線及第三組TPU紗線皆為TPU單組份紗線。In one embodiment, at least three groups of TPU yarns include a first group of TPU yarns, a second group of TPU yarns, and a third group of TPU yarns, and the first group of TPU yarns, the second group of TPU yarns, and the third group of TPU yarns All TPU yarns are TPU single-component yarns.
於一實施例,第一組TPU紗線、第二組TPU紗線及第三組TPU紗線各選自於由TPU空氣變形紗、TPU預取向原絲、TPU假撚紗及其組合所組成的群組中的一或多條紗線。In one embodiment, the first group of TPU yarns, the second group of TPU yarns and the third group of TPU yarns are each selected from the group consisting of TPU air textured yarn, TPU pre-oriented yarn, TPU false twisted yarn and combinations thereof one or more yarns in a group.
於一實施例,第一組TPU紗線、第二組TPU紗線及第三組TPU紗線包含相同的紗線材料。In one embodiment, the first group of TPU yarns, the second group of TPU yarns, and the third group of TPU yarns include the same yarn material.
於一實施例,第一組TPU紗線及第二組TPU紗線具有相同的紗線數,且第一組TPU紗線及第二組TPU紗線的紗線數大於第三組TPU紗線的紗線數。In one embodiment, the first group of TPU yarns and the second group of TPU yarns have the same number of yarns, and the number of yarns of the first group of TPU yarns and the second group of TPU yarns is greater than that of the third group of TPU yarns. number of yarns.
於一實施例,第一組TPU紗線及第二組TPU紗線的紗線數為2條以上,第三組TPU紗線的紗線數為1條以上且少於第一組TPU紗線及第二組TPU紗線至少1條。In one embodiment, the number of yarns in the first group of TPU yarns and the second group of TPU yarns is more than 2, and the number of yarns in the third group of TPU yarns is more than 1 and less than the first group of TPU yarns. And at least 1 piece of the second group of TPU yarns.
於一實施例,第二組TPU紗線僅用於形成針織物的技術背面。In one embodiment, the second set of TPU yarns are used only to form the technical back of the knitted fabric.
於一實施例,在凹凸圖紋區中,技術正面的紗圈由第三組TPU紗線構成,且技術背面的紗圈分別由第一組TPU紗線及第二組TPU紗線交替構成。In one embodiment, in the concave-convex pattern area, the yarn loops on the technical front are composed of the third group of TPU yarns, and the yarn loops on the technical back are alternately composed of the first group of TPU yarns and the second group of TPU yarns.
於一實施例,凹凸圖紋區的緊度為平面區的緊度的1.4至1.8倍。In one embodiment, the tightness of the concave-convex pattern area is 1.4 to 1.8 times that of the flat area.
於一實施例,在凹凸圖紋區中,技術正面的紗圈對應技術背面的紗圈為間隔設置,使得在技術正面呈現凹部且在技術背面形成凸部。In one embodiment, in the concave-convex pattern area, the yarn loops on the technical front are arranged at intervals corresponding to the yarn loops on the technical back, so that concave portions appear on the technical front and convex portions are formed on the technical back.
於一實施例,在針織物中,平面區的垂直投影面積大於凹凸圖紋區的垂直投影面積。In one embodiment, in the knitted fabric, the vertical projected area of the flat area is larger than the vertical projected area of the concave-convex pattern area.
於一實施例,在凹凸圖紋區中,技術正面的紗圈與技術背面的紗圈互不連結編織,形成一中空部。In one embodiment, in the concave and convex pattern area, the yarn loops on the technical front and the yarn loops on the technical back are woven without interconnection to form a hollow portion.
於一實施例,在凹凸圖紋區中,技術正面包含的紗圈數為Nf,技術背面包含的紗圈數為Nb,且(1/2xNb)-1≦Nf≦(1/2xNb)+1,Nf及Nb皆為正整數。In one embodiment, in the concave-convex pattern area, the number of yarn turns included in the technical front is Nf, and the number of yarn turns included in the technical back is Nb, and (1/2xNb)-1≦Nf≦(1/2xNb)+1 , Nf and Nb are both positive integers.
於一實施例,針織物為針織鞋面。In one embodiment, the knitted fabric is a knitted shoe upper.
相較於習知技術,本新型之針織物藉由控制凹凸圖紋區中技術正面的紗圈數少於技術背面的紗圈數,使得針織物在針織完成後即具有自然成型的凹凸圖紋,無須開模進行熱壓成凹凸狀之處理工序,亦無須使用不同熱收縮率的紗線材料進行編織後再加熱使其收縮成凹凸狀的處理工序。再者,本新型之針織物使用至少三組TPU紗線可降低若因使用不同材料紗線可能帶來的不同張力、不同摩擦阻力或不同彈性因素所產生的布面瑕疵問題,可有效提高良率並提昇產能。Compared with the conventional technology, the new knitted fabric controls the number of yarn turns on the technical front in the concave-convex pattern area to be less than the number of yarn turns on the technical back, so that the knitted fabric has a naturally formed concave-convex pattern after the knitting is completed. , there is no need to open a mold and heat press it into a concave-convex shape, and there is no need to use yarn materials with different thermal shrinkage rates to weave and then heat it to shrink it into a concave-convex shape. Furthermore, the use of at least three sets of TPU yarns in this new type of knitted fabric can reduce the problems of fabric surface defects caused by different tensions, different frictional resistances or different elastic factors that may be caused by using yarns of different materials, and can effectively improve the quality. rate and increase production capacity.
在附圖中,為了清楚起見,放大了層、膜、面板、區域等的厚度。在整個說明書中,相同的附圖標記表示相同的元件。應當理解,儘管術語”第一”、”第二”、”第三”等在本文中可以用於描述各種元件、部件、區域、層及/或部分,但是這些元件、部件、區域、及/或部分不應受這些術語的限制。這些術語僅用於將一個元件、部件、區域、層或部分與另一個元件、部件、區域、層或部分區分開。因此,下面討論的”第一元件”、”部件”、”區域”、”層”或”部分”可以被稱為第二元件、部件、區域、層或部分而不脫離本文的教導。In the drawings, the thickness of layers, films, panels, regions, etc., are exaggerated for clarity. Throughout this specification, the same reference numbers refer to the same elements. It will be understood that, although the terms "first," "second," "third," etc. may be used herein to describe various elements, components, regions, layers and/or sections, these elements, components, regions, and/or sections or parts thereof shall not be limited by these terms. These terms are only used to distinguish one element, component, region, layer or section from another element, component, region, layer or section. Thus, a "first element", "component", "region", "layer" or "section" discussed below could be termed a second element, component, region, layer or section without departing from the teachings herein.
這裡使用的術語僅僅是為了描述特定實施例的目的,而不是限制性的。如本文所使用的,除非內容清楚地指示,否則單數形式”一”、”一個”和”該”旨在包括複數形式,包括”至少一個”。”或”表示”及/或”。如本文所使用的,術語”及/或”包括一個或多個相關所列項目的任何和所有組合。還應當理解,當在本說明書中使用時,術語”包括”及/或”包括”指定所述特徵、區域、整體、步驟、操作、元件的存在及/或部件,但不排除一個或多個其它特徵、區域整體、步驟、操作、元件、部件及/或其組合的存在或添加。The terminology used herein is for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only and is not intended to be limiting. As used herein, the singular forms "a", "an" and "the" are intended to include the plural forms including "at least one" unless the content clearly dictates otherwise. "or" means "and/or". As used herein, the term "and/or" includes any and all combinations of one or more of the associated listed items. It will also be understood that when used in this specification, the terms "comprises" and/or "includes" designate the presence of stated features, regions, integers, steps, operations, elements and/or components but do not exclude one or more The presence or addition of other features, regions, steps, operations, elements, parts and/or combinations thereof.
除非另有定義,本文使用的所有術語(包括技術和科學術語)具有與本新型所屬領域的普通技術人員通常理解的相同的含義。將進一步理解的是,諸如在通常使用的字典中定義的那些術語應當被解釋為具有與它們在相關技術和本新型的上下文中的含義一致的含義,並且將不被解釋為理想化的或過度正式的意義,除非本文中明確地這樣定義。Unless otherwise defined, all terms (including technical and scientific terms) used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. It will be further understood that terms such as those defined in commonly used dictionaries shall be construed to have meanings consistent with their meanings in the context of the relevant technology and the present invention, and shall not be construed as idealistic or excessive Formal meaning, unless expressly defined as such herein.
為了能徹底地瞭解本新型,將說明步驟及結構的細節。眾所周知的針織製作方式及詳細步驟並未描述於細節中,以避免造成本新型不必要之限制。In order to thoroughly understand the present invention, the details of the steps and structure will be explained. Well-known knitting production methods and detailed steps are not described in detail to avoid unnecessary limitations of the present invention.
本新型提供一種針織物,其可用於製造衣物、鞋物或是包件。本新型之針織物可由針織機(圖中未示)進行織造作業所編成,其中針織機可為例如圓編機或是橫編機。於一實施例,本新型之針織物為藉由二針床橫編機編織而成,且織造完成後為具有自然成型的凹凸圖紋的針織物。舉例而言,本新型之針織物可藉由可變換凸軌路徑並帶動織針動作的山角(Cam)的二針床橫編機編織而成。The present invention provides a knitted fabric, which can be used to manufacture clothing, shoes or bags. The knitted fabric of the present invention can be knitted by a knitting machine (not shown in the figure), where the knitting machine can be, for example, a circular knitting machine or a flat knitting machine. In one embodiment, the new knitted fabric is knitted by a two-needle bed flat knitting machine, and after weaving is completed, it is a knitted fabric with naturally formed concave and convex patterns. For example, the new type of knitted fabric can be knitted by a Cam two-needle bed flat knitting machine that can change the rail path and drive the knitting needle movement.
圖1A為本新型一實施例之針織物之示意圖,圖1B為圖1A之局部區域A的放大立體示意圖,且圖2為本新型沿圖1A的切線B-B的局部截面示意圖。如圖1A、圖1B及圖2所示,於一實施例,本新型之針織物10較佳為針織鞋面,但不以此為限。本新型之針織物10可適用於任何需要凹凸圖紋的織物。本新型之針織物10較佳由至少三組熱塑性聚氨酯(TPU)紗線織成(於後詳述)。針織物10具有相對的技術正面10a及技術背面10b,且針織物10包含凹凸圖紋區120及與凹凸圖紋區120延續編織的平面區110。在平面區110中,技術正面10a1的紗圈與技術背面10b1的紗圈為一對一對應設置。在凹凸圖紋區120中,技術正面10a2包含的紗圈數少於技術背面10b2包含的紗圈數,使得凹凸圖紋區120相對於平面區110朝技術背面10b的方向拱起。Figure 1A is a schematic diagram of a knitted fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention. Figure 1B is an enlarged three-dimensional schematic diagram of partial area A of Figure 1A. Figure 2 is a partial cross-sectional schematic diagram of the present invention along the tangent line B-B of Figure 1A. As shown in Figures 1A, 1B and 2, in one embodiment, the knitted
具體而言,技術正面10a為對應二針床橫編機之前針床所形成的部分,且技術正面10a由位於平面區110的技術正面10a1及位於凹凸圖紋區120的技術正面10a2共同構成。技術背面10b為對應二針床橫編機之後針床所形成的部分,且技術背面10b由位於平面區110的技術背面10b1及位於凹凸圖紋區120的技術背面10b2共同構成。再者,如圖1A所示,在針織物10中,平面區110的垂直投影面積大於凹凸圖紋區120的垂直投影面積,使得平面區110可視為對應針織物10整體的區域,而凹凸圖紋區120可視為呈現在平面區110中的圖案。Specifically, the
如圖2所示,「在平面區110中,技術正面10a1的紗圈與技術背面10b1的紗圈為一對一對應設置」係指在平面區110中,技術正面10a1的紗圈數與技術背面10b1的紗圈數實質相同(於圖中僅各顯示8個)或相差±1個紗圈,使得技術正面10a1的紗圈(例如f1~f8)與技術背面10b1的紗圈(例如b1~b8)為前後交替設置。藉此,針織物10的平面區110具有相對平整的技術正面10a1及技術背面10b1。As shown in Figure 2, "In the
再如圖2所示,在凹凸圖紋區120中,技術正面10a2的紗圈對應技術背面10a1的紗圈為間隔設置,使得在技術正面10a2呈現凹部,且在技術背面10b2形成凸部。舉例而言,在凹凸圖紋區120中,技術正面10a2的紗圈(例如c1'~c5')在前針床上為隔針編織,技術背面10b2的紗圈(例如c1~c9)在後針床上為連續編織,使得技術正面10a2包含的紗圈數約為技術背面10b2包含的紗圈數的1/2。具體而言,當技術正面10a2包含的紗圈數為Nf,且技術背面10b2包含的紗圈數為Nb時,Nf與Nb的關係應滿足(1/2xNb)-1≦Nf≦(1/2xNb)+1,其中Nf及Nb皆為正整數。舉例而言,於圖2之實施例中,技術背面10b2包含的紗圈數為9個(例如c1~c9,即Nb為9),因此(1/2x9)-1≦Nf≦(1/2x9)+1(即3.5≦Nf≦5.5),使得技術正面10a2的紗圈數Nf可為4或5,於此實施例Nf為5。從另一觀點而言,在凹凸圖紋區120中,技術正面10a2的紗圈數Nf可為技術背面10b2的紗圈數Nb加上共用紗圈之數量的1/2。舉例而言,於圖2之實施例中,技術背面10b2包含的紗圈數為9個(例如c1~c9,即Nb為9),且加上一個共用紗圈(例如b5),使得技術正面10a2的紗圈數Nf為5個。由於技術正面10a2的紗圈數約為技術背面10b2的紗圈數的1/2,使得技術正面10a2形成凹陷的凹部,且技術背面10b2形成凸起的凸部,而造成凹凸圖紋區120相對於平面區110朝技術背面10b的方向拱起的明顯紋理特徵。As shown in Figure 2, in the concave and
此外,針織物10在平面區110及凹凸圖紋區120中可具有不同的緊度,且凹凸圖紋區120的緊度較佳大於平面區110的緊度,使得凹凸圖紋區120相對於平面區110收縮,而更加促使凹凸圖紋區120相對於平面區110朝技術背面10b的方向拱起。於一實施例,凹凸圖紋區120的緊度較佳為平面區110的緊度的1.4至1.8倍。於一實施例,可藉由控制針織物10的喂紗速率,以調整平面區110及凹凸圖紋區120的緊度。舉例而言,當平面區110的喂紗速率為每分鐘600米(600 m/min)時,在凹凸圖紋區120的喂紗速率可控制為約333.33~428.57 m/min,使得紗線在凹凸圖紋區120皆被拉伸。藉此,在編織後,由於紗線的回復力而使凹凸圖紋區120相對於平面區110收縮,進而使凹凸圖紋區120相對於平面區110朝技術背面10b的方向拱起而形成類似半圓形的拱狀,使得針織物具有更加明顯的凹凸圖紋效果。In addition, the knitted
此外,如圖2所示,在凹凸圖紋區120中,技術正面10a2的紗圈(例如c1'~c5')與技術背面10b2的紗圈(例如c1~c9)互不連結編織,形成中空部S。具體而言,除平面區110及凹凸圖紋區120之間的共用紗圈b5或延續紗圈f4、c1外,在凹凸圖紋區120的前紗圈(例如技術正面10a2的紗圈c1'~c5')及後紗圈(例如技術背面10b2的紗圈c1~c9)之間互不連結編織,使得技術正面10a2與技術背面10b2沿著紗圈排列的方向形成無紗線交織的中空部S。In addition, as shown in Figure 2, in the concave and
針織物10可由至少三組TPU紗線織成。於此實施例中,至少三組TPU紗線包含第一組TPU紗線11、第二組TPU紗線12及第三組TPU紗線13(示於圖3及圖4)。第一組TPU紗線11、第二組TPU紗線12及第三組TPU紗線13較佳為TPU單組份紗線,使得針織物10的組織結構全部皆使用100%的TPU材料之紗線,可達到被完全回收再利用。舉例而言,第一組TPU紗線11、第二組TPU紗線12及第三組TPU紗線13可各獨立選自於由TPU空氣變形紗(TPU/ATY(air textured yarn))、TPU預取向原絲(TPU/POY(pre-oriented yarn))、TPU假撚紗(TPU/DTY(draw textured yarn))及其組合所組成的群組中的一或多條紗線。於一實施例,第一組TPU紗線11及第二組TPU紗線12較佳具有相同的紗線數,且第一組TPU紗線11及第二組TPU紗線12的紗線數較佳大於第三組TPU紗線13的紗線數。舉例而言,第一組TPU紗線11及第二組TPU紗線12的紗線數為2條以上,第三組TPU紗線13的紗線數為1條以上且少於第一組TPU紗線11及第二組TPU紗線12至少1條,但不以此為限。於其他實施例,可依據實際應用調整各組TPU紗線的數目,以使得針織物10的平面區110具有相對均勻的厚度。The knitted
TPU空氣變形紗為利用噴氣法使用空氣噴射技術對絲束進行交絡加工,形成不規則扭結絲圈,使絲束具有蓬鬆毛圈狀的紗。TPU空氣變形紗兼具有長絲和短纖紗兩者的性能,具有較好的蓬鬆性,有仿棉的手感,同時又保有人造纖維的優點和功能性,例如:蓬鬆性、柔軟性、導水性佳、色彩鮮豔度維持性、光澤性、透氣性等方面優於變形前的原絲。纖度比原絲高約10-15 % ,但強度下降約40 % ,因為空氣變形後僅有一小部份單絲在承受整根絲束的拉伸力之故。TPU空氣變形紗不僅拉伸度高,而且耐磨性能非常優越。由於TPU空氣變形紗的表面弧圈結構,使得TPU空氣變形紗可以在高於6000針/min的速度下進行加工,不發生熔融或出現斷頭。換言之,在針對仿棉手感、保有人造纖維的機能性及多樣變化性的考量下,選擇TPU空氣變形紗較有的優勢。於一實施例,TPU空氣變形紗的質量較佳為150D(丹尼,denier)~550D,且更佳為500D。TPU air textured yarn is a yarn that uses air jet technology to intertwine filament bundles to form irregular twisted filament loops, giving the filament bundles a fluffy terry-like shape. TPU air textured yarn has the properties of both filament and staple fiber yarns, has good fluffiness and a cotton-like feel, while retaining the advantages and functionality of man-made fibers, such as: fluffiness, softness, It has better water conductivity, color brightness maintenance, glossiness, air permeability and other aspects than the raw silk before deformation. The fineness is about 10-15% higher than that of the original filament, but the strength is reduced by about 40% because only a small part of the monofilament can bear the tensile force of the entire filament bundle after air deformation. TPU air textured yarn not only has high stretchability, but also has excellent wear resistance. Due to the surface arc structure of TPU air textured yarn, TPU air textured yarn can be processed at a speed higher than 6000 needles/min without melting or breakage. In other words, considering the cotton-like feel, maintaining the functionality and variety of man-made fibers, choosing TPU air textured yarn has more advantages. In one embodiment, the quality of the TPU air-textured yarn is preferably 150D (denier) to 550D, and more preferably 500D.
TPU預取向原絲係指經高速紡絲獲得的取向度在未取向絲和拉伸絲之間的未完全拉伸的化纖長絲。與未拉伸絲相比,TPU預取向原絲具有一定程度的取向,穩定性好,常常用做拉伸假撚變形絲(DTY)的專用絲。高速紡絲速度通常為3000~6000 m/min,紡絲速度為4000 m/min以下的捲繞絲具有較高的取向度。TPU預取向原絲的預取向度高、性質穩定、力學性能好、均勻性高,並具有良好的加工性能。於一實施例,TPU預取向原絲的質量較佳為130D~250D,且更佳為200D。TPU pre-oriented raw yarn refers to the incompletely drawn chemical fiber filament obtained by high-speed spinning with an orientation degree between unoriented yarn and drawn yarn. Compared with undrawn yarn, TPU pre-oriented raw yarn has a certain degree of orientation and good stability, and is often used as a special yarn for drawn false-twisted textured yarn (DTY). The high-speed spinning speed is usually 3000-6000 m/min, and the winding yarn with a spinning speed of 4000 m/min or less has a higher degree of orientation. TPU pre-oriented strands have high pre-orientation, stable properties, good mechanical properties, high uniformity, and good processing properties. In one embodiment, the quality of the TPU pre-oriented strands is preferably 130D~250D, and more preferably 200D.
TPU假撚紗是利用TPU預取向原絲做為原絲,進行拉伸和假撚變形加工製成。TPU假撚紗通常具有一定的彈性及收縮性,也稱為TPU彈力絲。於一實施例,TPU假撚紗的質量較佳為150D~350D,且更佳為165D。TPU false-twisted yarn is made by using TPU pre-oriented raw yarn as raw yarn, which is stretched and false-twisted. TPU false twisted yarn usually has a certain degree of elasticity and shrinkage, and is also called TPU stretch yarn. In one embodiment, the quality of the TPU false twisted yarn is preferably 150D~350D, and more preferably 165D.
於一實施例,第一組TPU紗線11、第二組TPU紗線12及第三組TPU紗線13可包含相同的紗線材料,例如三組TPU紗線皆為TPU空氣變形紗、TPU預取向原絲、或TPU假撚紗,但不以此為限。於其他實施例,第一組TPU紗線11、第二組TPU紗線12及第三組TPU紗線13可包含不同或部分相同的紗線材料。舉例而言,三組TPU紗線可分別為TPU空氣變形紗、TPU預取向原絲及TPU假撚紗,或者第一組TPU紗線11及第二組TPU紗線12可各包含兩條以上相同或不同製程生產的TPU紗線,且第三組TPU紗線13的TPU紗線可與第一組TPU紗線11及第二組TPU紗線12所包含之紗線相同或不同。In one embodiment, the first group of
於後,參考圖3及圖4並配合圖1B及圖2,說明本新型藉由二針床橫編機編織針織物10的實施例。如圖3所示,二針床橫編機包含設置於前方的前針床FB及設置於後方的後針床BB。前針床FB及後針床BB各具有對應的複數織針,且前針床FB的織針與後針床BB的織針前後交替地一對一對應設置。此外,對應於三組TPU紗線(例如11、12、13),橫編機較佳具有三個山角(例如F1、F2、F3),各個山角(或稱喂紗器)可藉由變換凸軌路徑並帶動織針動作以進行編織。在此須注意,圖3及圖4所示的織程順序P1至P8係對應圖1B中箭頭所示的編織方向。Hereinafter, an embodiment of the new knitted
如圖3所示,於第一織程P1期間,由右至左編織,利用第一順位山角F1,將第一組TPU紗線11喂入前針床FB的各織針以形成紗圈,且同時以掛紗(tuck)方式將第一組TPU紗線11隔針掛在後針床BB,亦即,第一組TPU紗線11以前針床FB織兩針,接著後針床BB掛一針的方式,重複在前針床FB及後針床BB進行編織。然後,利用第二順位山角F2,將第二組TPU紗線12以隔針編織的方式喂入後針床BB以形成複數紗圈。在此須注意,第二組TPU紗線12在後針床BB形成紗圈的織針位置為第一組TPU紗線11未掛針的位置。接著,利用第三順位山角F3,將第三組TPU紗線13以隔針編織的方式喂入後針床BB以形成複數紗圈。在此須注意,第三組TPU紗線13在後針床BB形成紗圈的織針位置為第一組TPU紗線11掛針的位置(即第二組TPU紗線12在後針床BB未形成紗圈(未織(miss)的織針位置)。藉此,前針床FB的複數織針上具有由第一組TPU紗線11形成的複數紗圈,而後針床BB的複數織針上具有由第二組TPU紗線12及第三組TPU紗線13依序交替形成的複數紗圈,其中前針床FB(技術正面10a1)的複數紗圈與後針床BB(技術背面10b1)的複數紗圈為一對一前後對應設置,而形成一列連續的平面區110。As shown in Figure 3, during the first knitting pass P1, weaving from right to left, using the first sequence corner F1, the first group of
於第二織程P2期間,由右至左編織,利用第一順位山角F1,在平面區110中,將第一組TPU紗線11喂入前針床FB的各織針以形成紗圈,且同時以掛針方式將第一組TPU紗線11隔針掛在後針床BB。亦即,第一組TPU紗線11以前針床FB織兩針,接著後針床BB掛一針的方式,重複在前針床FB及後針床BB進行編織。在此須注意,於此織程期間,第一組TPU紗線11在後針床BB掛針的織針位置為於前次織程(例如P1)期間第一組TPU紗線11未掛針的位置,亦即在前次織程中第二組TPU紗線12在後針床BB形成紗圈的織針位置。當編織從平面區110延續到凹凸圖紋區120時,第一順位山角F1將第一組TPU紗線11以隔針編織的方式喂入後針床BB以形成複數紗圈。具體而言,在凹凸圖紋區120中,第一組TPU紗線11形成紗圈的織針位置為前次織程(例如P1)期間第二組TPU紗線12形成紗圈的織針位置,即前次織程期間第三組TPU紗線13未形成紗圈的織針位置。當編織從凹凸圖紋區120延續到平面區110時,重複平面區110之前織兩針後掛一針的方式編織第一組TPU紗線11,以在前次織程中第二組TPU紗線12在後針床BB形成紗圈的織針位置執行掛針。During the second knitting pass P2, weave from right to left, using the first sequence corner F1, in the
然後,利用第二順位山角F2,將第二組TPU紗線12以隔針編織的方式喂入後針床BB以形成複數紗圈。在此須注意,第二組TPU紗線12在後針床BB形成紗圈的織針位置為於此織程期間第一組TPU紗線11未掛針的位置(平面區中)或未形成紗圈的位置(凹凸圖紋區中),亦即在前次織程中第二組TPU紗線12在後針床BB未形成紗圈的織針位置。Then, using the second sequence corner F2, the second group of
接著,利用第三順位山角F3,在平面區110中,將第三組TPU紗線13以隔針編織的方式喂入後針床BB以形成複數紗圈。在此須注意,於此織程期間,第三組TPU紗線13在後針床BB形成紗圈的織針位置為第一組TPU紗線11掛針的位置,即在前次織程中第三組TPU紗線13在後針床BB未形成紗圈的織針位置。當編織從平面區110延續到凹凸圖紋區120時,第三順位山角F3將第三組TPU紗線13以隔針編織的方式喂入前針床FB以形成複數紗圈。當編織從凹凸圖紋區120延續到平面區110時,第三順位山角F3將第三組TPU紗線13以隔針編織的方式喂入後針床BB以形成複數紗圈,其位置對應在前次織程(例如P1)中第三組TPU紗線13在後針床BB未形成紗圈的織針位置。藉此,平面區110中夾設有凹凸圖紋區120。在平面區110中,前針床FB的複數織針上具有由第一組TPU紗線11形成的複數紗圈(即技術正面10a1),而後針床BB的複數織針上具有由第二組TPU紗線12及第三組TPU紗線13依序交替形成的複數紗圈(即技術背面10b1)。在凹凸圖紋區120中,前針床FB的複數織針上具有由第三組TPU紗線13隔針編織的紗圈(即技術正面10a2),而後針床BB的複數織針上具有由第一組TPU紗線11及第二組TPU紗線12依序交替形成的複數紗圈(即技術背面10b2)。在凹凸圖紋區120中,前針床FB(技術正面10a2)的紗圈數少於後針床BB(技術背面10b2)的紗圈數,例如約為後針床BB紗圈數的1/2。Next, using the third sequence corner F3, in the
於第三織程P3期間,由右至左編織,利用第一順位山角F1,以類似第二織程P2的編織方式將第一組TPU紗線11喂入前針床FB及後針床BB。在此須注意,在平面區110中,第一組TPU紗線11在後針床BB掛針的織針位置為前次織程(例如P2)期間未掛針的織針位置,且在凹凸圖紋區120中,在後針床BB隔針紗圈的位置為前次織程(例如P2)期間未形成紗圈的織針位置。然後,利用第二順位山角F2,將第二組TPU紗線12以隔針編織的方式喂入後針床BB以形成複數紗圈。第二組TPU紗線12在後針床BB形成紗圈的織針位置為前次織程(例如P2)中第二組TPU紗線12在後針床BB未形成紗圈的織針位置。接著,利用第三順位山角F3,以類似第二織程P2的編織方式將第三組TPU紗線13喂入前針床FB及後針床BB。在此須注意,在平面區110中,第三組TPU紗線13在後針床BB形成紗圈的織針位置為前次織程(例如P2)期間未形成紗圈的織針位置,且在凹凸圖紋區120中,在前針床FB隔針織紗圈的位置為前次織程(例如P2)期間未形成紗圈的織針位置。在此須注意,在凹凸圖紋區120中,第一組TPU紗線11在後針床BB隔針織的紗圈數係對應第三組TPU紗線13在前針床FB隔針織的紗圈數,且紗圈數係依據實際凹凸圖紋而變化(例如於此實施例為增加)。During the third weaving pass P3, weave from right to left, using the first corner F1, and feed the first group of
於第四織程P4期間,由左至右編織,利用第一順位山角F1,以類似第二織程P2的編織方式將第一組TPU紗線11喂入前針床FB及後針床BB。在此須注意,在平面區110中,第一組TPU紗線11在後針床BB掛針的織針位置為前次織程(例如P3)期間未掛針的織針位置,且在凹凸圖紋區120中,在後針床BB隔針織紗圈的位置為前次織程(例如P3)期間未形成紗圈的織針位置。然後,利用第二順位山角F2,將第二組TPU紗線12以隔針編織的方式喂入後針床BB以形成複數紗圈。第二組TPU紗線12在後針床BB形成紗圈的織針位置為前次織程(例如P3)中第二組TPU紗線12在後針床BB未形成紗圈的織針位置。接著,利用第三順位山角F3,以類似第二織程P2的編織方式將第三組TPU紗線13喂入前針床FB及後針床BB。在此須注意,在平面區110中,第三組TPU紗線13在後針床BB形成紗圈的織針位置為前次織程(例如P3)期間未形成紗圈的織針位置,且在凹凸圖紋區120中,在前針床FB隔針織紗圈的位置為前次織程(例如P3)期間未形成紗圈的織針位置。在凹凸圖紋區120中,前針床FB(即技術正面10a2)的紗圈由第三組TPU紗線13構成,且後針床BB(即技術背面10b2)的紗圈分別由第一組TPU紗線11及第二組TPU紗線12交替構成。在凹凸圖紋區120中,第一組TPU紗線11在後針床BB隔針織的紗圈數係對應第三組TPU紗線13在前針床FB隔針織的紗圈數,且紗圈數係依據實際凹凸圖紋而變化(例如於此實施例為增加)。During the fourth weaving pass P4, weave from left to right, using the first sequence corner F1, and feed the first group of
請參閱圖4,於第五織程P5、第六織程P6及第七織程P7期間,藉由第一順位山角F1、第二順位山角F2及第三順位山角F3以類似前述織程(例如P2)的編織方式,將第一組TPU紗線11及第三組TPU紗線13分別喂入前針床FB及後針床BB,且第二組TPU紗線12僅喂入後針床BB,而完成形成針織物10的三列編織。在各列的平面區110中,前針床FB的複數織針上具有由第一組TPU紗線11形成的複數紗圈,而後針床BB的複數織針上具有由第二組TPU紗線12及第三組TPU紗線13依序交替形成的複數紗圈,其中前針床FB(技術正面10a1)的複數紗圈與後針床BB(技術背面10b1)的複數紗圈為一對一前後對應設置。在各列的凹凸圖紋區120中,前針床FB的複數織針上具有由第三組TPU紗線13隔針編織的紗圈(即技術正面10a2),而後針床BB的複數織針上具有由第一組TPU紗線11及第二組TPU紗線12依序交替形成的複數紗圈(即技術背面10b2),其中前針床FB(技術正面10a2)的紗圈數少於後針床BB(技術背面10b2)的紗圈數,例如約為後針床BB紗圈數的1/2。Please refer to Figure 4. During the fifth weaving process P5, the sixth weaving process P6 and the seventh weaving process P7, the first-order mountain horn F1, the second-order mountain corner F2 and the third-order mountain horn F3 are used in a similar manner as described above. In the knitting method of the weaving process (such as P2), the first group of
於第八織程P8期間,對應於圖1A之U型的局部區域A,並同時配合參考圖1B,同一編織列中可具有複數個凹凸圖紋區120。具體而言,第一織程P1對應無凹凸圖紋的平面區110,第二織程P2至第七織程P7對應U型凹凸圖紋的底部,而第八織程P8對應自U型凹凸圖紋的底部兩側間隔設置的兩臂部。換言之,於第八織程P8期間,以類似前述織程(P2)的編織方式,將第一組TPU紗線11喂入前針床FB及後針床BB,以在前次織程(例如P7)形成的凹凸圖紋區120中(例如凹凸圖紋區的中間段)執行平面區的編織(即前織兩針後掛一針),進而在前次織程(例如P7)形成的凹凸圖紋區120的兩側形成被平面區110分隔的兩個凹凸圖紋區120。第二順位山角F2將第二組TPU紗線12以隔針編織的方式喂入後針床BB以形成複數紗圈,且第二組TPU紗線12在後針床BB形成紗圈的織針位置為前次織程(例如P7)中第二組TPU紗線12在後針床BB未形成紗圈的織針位置。接著,利用第三順位山角F3,以類似第二織程P2的編織方式將第三組TPU紗線13喂入前針床FB及後針床BB。在平面區110中,第三組TPU紗線13在後針床BB形成紗圈的織針位置為前次織程(例如P7)期間未形成紗圈的織針位置,且在兩個凹凸圖紋區120中,在前針床FB隔針織紗圈的位置為前次織程(例如P7)期間第三組TPU紗線13未形成紗圈的織針位置。在各凹凸圖紋區120中,第一組TPU紗線11在後針床BB隔針織的紗圈數係對應第三組TPU紗線13在前針床FB形成隔針織的紗圈數,且紗圈數係依據實際凹凸圖紋而變化(例如於此實施例為減少)。再者,在各凹凸圖紋區120中,前針床FB(技術正面10a2)的紗圈數仍保持少於後針床BB(技術背面10b2)的紗圈數,例如約為後針床BB紗圈數的1/2。During the eighth weaving pass P8, corresponding to the U-shaped local area A in Figure 1A, and also referring to Figure 1B, there can be a plurality of concave and
由上述的織程P1~P8可知,本新型之針織物10在編織時僅利用簡單的編織(stitch)、不織(miss)及掛紗(又稱;半織,tuck),無需使用鍍圈(plating)、移圈(transfer)、與搖床(針床移動(racking))等織法,即可完成具有明顯的凹凸圖紋。因此,編織時可以非常快速且順暢,有效達成提高良率及提昇產能的效果。It can be seen from the above weaving processes P1 to P8 that the knitted
在針織物10中,第二組TPU紗線12僅用於形成技術背面10b,亦即第二組TPU紗線12僅在後針床BB上編織。從另一觀點而言,如圖2所示,平面區110組織中的第一組TPU紗線11具有複數由前針床FB每一織針編織形成的「平面區前紗圈(例如f1~f8)」,以及複數由後針床BB每間隔1織針半織形成的「平面區後掛紗(例如111)」,平面區後掛紗介於平面區前紗圈(例如f1~f8)之間。平面區110組織中的第二組TPU紗線12具有複數由後針床BB每間隔1織針編織形成的「共用後紗圈(例如b2、b4、b6、b8)」,以及複數介於共用後紗圈之間不織的「共用後浮紗(例如121)」,其中共用後紗圈(例如b2、b4、b6、b8)介於平面區後掛紗之間。平面區110組織中的第三組TPU紗線13具有複數由後針床BB每間隔1織針編織形成的「平面區後紗圈(例如b1、b3、b5、b7)」,以及複數介於平面區後紗圈之間不織的「平面區後浮紗(例如131)」,其中平面區後紗圈(例如b1、b3、b5、b7)與平面區後掛紗重疊。In the knitted
在凹凸圖紋區120組織中的第一組TPU紗線11具有複數由後針床BB每間隔1織針編織形成的「凸位後紗圈(例如c1、c3、c5、c7、c9)」,以及複數介於凸位後紗圈之間不織的「凹凸區後浮紗(例如112)」。凹凸圖紋區120組織中的第二組TPU紗線12具有複數由後針床BB每間隔1織針編織形成的「共用後紗圈(例如c2、c4、c6、c8)」,以及複數介於共用後紗圈之間不織的「共用後浮紗(例如122)」,其中共用後紗圈與第一組TPU紗線11的凸位後紗圈相隔1織針。凹凸圖紋區120組織中的第三組TPU紗線13具有複數由前針床FB每間隔1織針編織形成的「凹位前紗圈(例如c1'~c5')」,以及複數介於凹位前紗圈之間不織的「凹凸區前浮紗(例如132)」,其中凹位前紗圈介於第一組TPU紗線11的凸位後紗圈(例如c1、c3、c5、c7、c9)與第二組TPU紗線12的共用後紗圈(例如c2、c4、c6、c8)之間。The first group of
凹凸圖紋區120組織中全織成紗圈的凹位前紗圈數量約為凸位後紗圈加上共用後紗圈數量的一半,且凹位前紗圈不與凸位後紗圈及共用後紗圈連結編織而形成中空部S。在凹凸圖紋區120中,由於技術正面10a2的紗圈數量約為技術背面10b2的紗圈數量的1/2,因此技術正面10a2形成凹陷且技術背面10b2形成凸起的明顯紋理特徵。The number of concave front yarn loops in the fully woven yarn loops in the concave and
此外,平面區110組織中全織成紗圈的平面區前紗圈(例如f1~f8)的數量與共用後紗圈(例如b2、b4、b6、b8)加上平面區後紗圈(例如b1、b3、b5、b7)的總數量相同,且平面區前紗圈係以平面區後掛紗而將凸位後紗圈與共用後紗圈相互連結編織。由於平面區110的技術正面10a1紗圈數與技術背面10b1紗圈數相同而使其均勻平整,且彼此以平面區後掛紗來相互連結編織,故平面區後掛紗使得平面區110形成明顯增厚的特徵。In addition, the number of front yarn loops (for example, f1~f8) in the plane area that are fully woven into yarn loops in the
表1為TPU單組份紗線與一般鞋用PET(聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯,polyethylene terephthalate)高彈紗的量測數據。Table 1 shows the measurement data of TPU single-component yarn and PET (polyethylene terephthalate) high elastic yarn for general shoes.
表1
TPU紗線是熱塑性聚氨酯彈性體經紡紗工藝製成的纖維材料。TPU紗線具有耐磨,耐曲折,抗撕裂、耐溶劑、阻燃,易定型(持續耐久),環保可回收再利用等特點,可以通過針織方法生產出高強度和高耐磨性布料。在紡織工業中,TPU紗線還可以加工方式來改變性質、細度及顏色,可用於鞋面,背包,肩帶,地毯,餐桌墊,座椅等織物面料。由於本新型使用無芯材的TPU單組份紗線,具有高彈性、高韌性且柔軟度佳,且重要的是具有形狀記憶固型的特點。故,本新型應用TPU紗線所織出的針織物(或鞋面),除了耐磨性更優於PET織物之外,更利用TPU紗線的較佳的形狀記憶固型 (回復率)及其摩擦係數之特點,使編織織物(或鞋面)後的凹凸圖紋能比PET織物具有更佳的凹凸效果及更好的定型效果。TPU yarn is a fiber material made of thermoplastic polyurethane elastomer through spinning process. TPU yarn is wear-resistant, twist-resistant, tear-resistant, solvent-resistant, flame-retardant, easy to shape (sustainable and durable), environmentally friendly and recyclable. It can produce high-strength and high-wear-resistant fabrics through knitting methods. In the textile industry, TPU yarn can also be processed to change its properties, fineness and color. It can be used in shoe uppers, backpacks, shoulder straps, carpets, table mats, seats and other fabrics. Since this new type uses TPU single-component yarn without core material, it has high elasticity, high toughness and good softness, and importantly, it has the characteristics of shape memory and solid shape. Therefore, the knitted fabric (or shoe upper) woven by this new type of TPU yarn not only has better wear resistance than PET fabric, but also takes advantage of the better shape memory solidity (recovery rate) and The characteristic of its friction coefficient enables the concave and convex pattern after woven fabric (or shoe upper) to have better concave and convex effect and better shaping effect than PET fabric.
表2及表3為使用TPU單組份紗線編織成本新型之針織物10與一般PET高彈紗編織成織物的量測數據,其中三組紗線皆使用相同的材料,A織物:為A紗線(TPU / ATY)所編織成的本新型針織物;B織物:為B紗線(TPU / POY)所編織成的本新型針織物;D織物:為D紗線(TPU / DTY)所編織成的本新型針織物;E織物:為E紗線(PET / ATY)所編織成的一般鞋用織物。Tables 2 and 3 show the measurement data of fabrics woven into fabrics using TPU single-component yarn to knit the new knitted
表2
表3 table 3
由表2及表3可知,本新型之針織物10(即A織物、B織物、D織物)在織物-回復率及織物-伸長率的表現皆優於習知的織物(即E織物)。It can be seen from Table 2 and Table 3 that the performance of the new knitted fabric 10 (i.e. A fabric, B fabric, D fabric) in fabric recovery rate and fabric elongation is better than that of the conventional fabric (i.e. E fabric).
相較於習知技術,本新型之針織物藉由控制凹凸圖紋區中技術正面及技術背面的紗圈數差異,在針織完成後即具有自然成型的凹凸圖紋,無須開模進行熱壓成凹凸狀之處理工序,亦無須使用不同熱收縮率的紗線材料進行編織後再加熱使其收縮成凹凸狀的處理工序。此外,本新型之針織物亦可於短時間的低溫熨燙使已具有凹凸圖紋的針織物(或鞋面)更加定型。再者,本新型之針織物使用至少三組TPU紗線可降低若因使用不同材料紗線可能帶來的不同張力、不同摩擦阻力或不同彈性因素所產生的布面瑕疵問題,可有效提高良率並提昇產能。Compared with the conventional technology, the new knitted fabric controls the difference in the number of yarn turns on the technical front and the technical back in the concave and convex pattern area, and has a naturally formed concave and convex pattern after the knitting is completed, without the need to open a mold for hot pressing. The process of forming a concave-convex shape does not require the use of yarn materials with different thermal shrinkage rates to weave and then heat them to shrink them into a concave-convex shape. In addition, the new knitted fabric can also be ironed at low temperature for a short period of time to further shape the knitted fabric (or shoe upper) that already has a concave and convex pattern. Furthermore, the use of at least three sets of TPU yarns in this new type of knitted fabric can reduce the problems of fabric surface defects caused by different tensions, different frictional resistances or different elastic factors that may be caused by using yarns of different materials, and can effectively improve the quality. rate and increase production capacity.
本新型已由上述實施例加以描述,然而上述實施例僅為例示目的而非用於限制。熟此技藝者當知在不悖離本新型精神下,於此特別說明的實施例可有例示實施例的其他修改。因此,本新型範疇亦涵蓋此類修改且僅由所附申請專利範圍限制。The present invention has been described by the above-mentioned embodiments. However, the above-mentioned embodiments are only for illustrative purposes and not for limitation. Those skilled in the art will appreciate that the embodiments specifically described herein may have other modifications to the illustrated embodiments without departing from the spirit of the invention. Therefore, the scope of the present invention also covers such modifications and is limited only by the scope of the appended patent application.
10:針織物
10a、10a1、10a2:技術正面
10b、10b1、10b2:技術背面
11:第一組TPU紗線
111:平面區後掛紗
112:凹凸區後浮紗
12:第二組TPU紗線
121、122:共用後浮紗
13:第三組TPU紗線
131:平面區後浮紗
132:凹凸區前浮紗
110:平面區
120:凹凸圖紋區
A:局部區域
S:中空區
BB:後針床
FB:前針床
b1~b8、f1~f8、c1~c9、c1'~c5':紗圈
10: Knitted
圖1A為本新型一實施例之針織物之示意圖。 圖1B為圖1A之局部區域A的放大立體示意圖。 圖2為本新型沿圖1A的切線B-B的局部截面示意圖。 圖3及圖4為本新型圖1B之局部區域A的織程示意圖。 Figure 1A is a schematic diagram of a knitted fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention. FIG. 1B is an enlarged perspective view of partial area A of FIG. 1A . Figure 2 is a partial cross-sectional schematic diagram of the present invention along the tangent line B-B in Figure 1A. Figures 3 and 4 are schematic diagrams of the weaving process of the partial area A in Figure 1B of the present invention.
10a、10a1、10a2:技術正面 10a, 10a1, 10a2: Technical front
10b、10b1、10b2:技術背面 10b, 10b1, 10b2: Technical backside
110:平面區 110: Plane area
111:平面區後掛紗 111: Hang yarn behind the flat area
112:凹凸區後浮紗 112: Floating yarn behind concave and convex area
121、122:共用後浮紗 121, 122: Shared back floating yarn
131:平面區後浮紗 131: Floating yarn behind flat area
132:凹凸區前浮紗 132: Floating yarn in front of concave and convex area
S:中空區 S: hollow area
120:凹凸圖紋區 120: Concave-convex pattern area
b1~b8、f1~f8、c1~c9、c1'~c5':紗圈 b1~b8, f1~f8, c1~c9, c1'~c5': yarn circle
Claims (14)
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TW112210088U TWM650185U (en) | 2023-09-19 | 2023-09-19 | Knitted fabric with concave-convex pattern |
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