WO2004079064A2 - Fil multifilament extremement resilient et produits obtenus a partir de celui-ci - Google Patents

Fil multifilament extremement resilient et produits obtenus a partir de celui-ci Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2004079064A2
WO2004079064A2 PCT/US2004/006004 US2004006004W WO2004079064A2 WO 2004079064 A2 WO2004079064 A2 WO 2004079064A2 US 2004006004 W US2004006004 W US 2004006004W WO 2004079064 A2 WO2004079064 A2 WO 2004079064A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fabric
yam
yams
yarn
multifilament
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/US2004/006004
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English (en)
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WO2004079064A3 (fr
Inventor
Brian Mcmurray
Original Assignee
Mcmurray Fabrics Incorporated
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Application filed by Mcmurray Fabrics Incorporated filed Critical Mcmurray Fabrics Incorporated
Publication of WO2004079064A2 publication Critical patent/WO2004079064A2/fr
Publication of WO2004079064A3 publication Critical patent/WO2004079064A3/fr

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/326—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic the elastic properties due to the construction rather than to the use of elastic material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/328—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/16—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/20—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration
    • D04B21/207—Wearing apparel or garment blanks
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features
    • D10B2403/021—Lofty fabric with equidistantly spaced front and back plies, e.g. spacer fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/02—Underwear

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a multifilament yarn comprising a low number of filaments in the yam bundle.
  • the present invention relates to a synthetic, low-filament number, continuous, multifilament yam that is highly resilient and that is comfortable to a wearer of fabric including such yarn.
  • a monofilament, synthetic, continuous filament yarn such as polyester or nylon.
  • a monofilament ya is generally preferred over a multifilament yam because of the need for the superior resilience and recovery characteristics provided by a monofilament yarn.
  • Monofilament yams are also preferred because a yam having increased resilience and recovery characteristics can be formed in a single filament of a nominal denier size in the yam spinning process.
  • Monofilament yams include long-chain synthetic polymers such as polypropylene, polyethylene, nylon, and polyester, which are used in many industrial and commercial applications.
  • higher denier, synthetic, continuous monofilament yarns having strength and superior resilience and recovery properties are utilized in fishing line, weed trimmer cutting lines, and sail rigging.
  • Finer denier, such as 10, 15, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80 , and higher denier, monofilaments are used in textile and apparel applications for their resilience and recovery properties.
  • Monofilament yams are widely used in various methods of forming fabrics, including weaving, knitting, braiding, and the like.
  • Monofilaments are used in a variety of fabric constructions, particularly in weft- knitted and wa -knitted structures using various combinations of yams.
  • a translucent, or sheer, effect is desired in certain stitches, for example in a weft-knit, mesh-effect pattern.
  • a fine denier size monofilament is utilized for such translucent courses rather than a similar fine denier multifilament yam, because a multifilament yam, even one having a fine denier, would exhibit too much opacity and "coverage,” thus losing the desired sheer effect.
  • monofilament yams can provide desirable resilience and visual characteristics to fabrics and garments, monofilaments possess a significant disadvantage.
  • Cutting fabrics into various shaped parts or garment components can expose the severed ends of monofilament yams all along the cut fabric edge.
  • the severed yarn ends can be extremely difficult to cover or insulate from skin contact even with high quality sewing thread and seaming techniques.
  • a relatively large individual monofilament yam protrudes out from a fabric surface or from a cut fabric edge at a garment seam, the garment wearer often experiences skin irritation from the somewhat stiff, exposed monofilament yam. Such irritation can lead to discomfort and eventual dissatisfaction with the garment.
  • the problem of skin irritation from exposed monofilament yams can be exacerbated in intimate apparel and/or medical use fabrics using higher denier monofilament yams for increased fabric performance properties.
  • the problem of monofilament yam skin irritation is well known, and has prevented the use of monofilament yams when highly resilient yarn properties are desired to maximize function and performance of fabrics and garments.
  • a yarn that possesses high resistance to bending like a monofilament yam while being acceptably comfortable to a garment wearer when in contact with the wearer's skin includes a yam that provides comfort both before and after a fabric comprising the yam has been cut and sewn into a finished garment.
  • Multifilament yams having a sufficiently high resilience and recovery index to satisfy the construction needs of certain engineered fabric structures are not commercially available.
  • An example of a fabric structure in which a highly resilient multifilament yam would be useful is a multi-layered, weft-knit spacer fabric.
  • the spacer yam component is usually a monofilament yam, selected to obtain the maximum obtainable composite fabric thickness and resilience.
  • a monofilament yam would essentially lie in a straight-line, vertical plane between and connecting the face layer and backing layer, maintaining the layers in a spaced relationship at a maximum fixed distance apart, and thereby resist bending.
  • Multifilament yams have been previously disclosed. Intermingled, or twisted, multifilament yams are disclosed by, for example, by U.S. Patent Nos. 5,442,903 to Lagarrigue, and 5,424,123 to Geirhos et al.
  • the patent to Lagarrigue discloses a method of twisting heavy denier nylon or polyester monofilament yams for industrial applications.
  • Such applications include use as a reinforcement in tires, for paper machine junction felts, as a canopy support, and for heavy duty knitting or braiding.
  • the Lagarrigue patent discloses assembling, twisting, and thermo-setting at least two filaments of synthetic material of a grist at least equal to 20 tex up to 500 tex (equivalent to 180 denier up to 4,500 denier) for textile operations.
  • the patent to Geirhos et al. discloses an intermingled multifilament yarn comprising primarily high modulus monofilaments made, for example, of aramid, carbon, or glass.
  • the multifilament yam has a total denier in a range between 700 dtex to 3000 dtex (630 denier to 2700 denier).
  • High modulus yarns are often twisted together into multifilament yams using an air intermingling process.
  • the Geirhos et al. process teaches intermingling high modulus yams at elevated temperatures, which tends to make the filaments brittle and break, leading to an appreciable reduction in tenacity of the filaments for each other.
  • U.S. Patent No. 6,116,059 to Rock et al. discloses an integrated, three-dimensional, warp-l ⁇ iitted spacer fabric, including a first fabric layer, a second fabric layer, and a resilient yam interconnecting the two fabric layers.
  • the first fabric layer is made from fiber rendered hydrophilic, and the second fabric layer is abrasion resistant.
  • the Rock et al. patent discloses a monofilament yam of between 40 denier and 150 denier in size wherein the spacer pile yam has sufficient resilience and stiffness to keep the first and second fabric layers apart even under the application of pressure.
  • U.S. Patent No. 5,735,145 to Pernick discloses an incontinence mattress pad made of a multiple layer, weft knit fabric.
  • the multiple layer fabric is designed for absorbing moisture and wicking it from a first hydrophobic layer to a second hydrophilic layer by using highly efficient wicking spacer yams of a preferably non- textured continuous, multifilament polyester.
  • the multifilament spacer yarns preferably include 37 filaments, each filament having a denier in the range of 100 to about 200.
  • Multifilament yams comprising a low number of individual monofilaments, each monofilament separately having a denier size that will not cause irritation to a wearer's skin and that possess high resilience and stiffness similar to that of a monofilament yam have not been made available for apparel use.
  • a ya that possesses high resistance to bending like a monofilament yam while being acceptably comfortable to a gamient wearer when in contact with the wearer's skin.
  • the need for such a yam includes a yarn that provides comfort both before and after a fabric comprising the yam has been cut and sewn into a finished garment.
  • the present invention comprises a multifilament yarn that comprises a low number of filaments in the yam bundle and that is highly resilient.
  • Embodiments of the present invention comprise a synthetic, low filament number, continuous, multifilament yam that is highly resilient and that is comfortable to a wearer of such yam.
  • Low-filament number, continuous, multifilament yams of the present invention have a high resistance to deformation and bending similar to a monofilament yam.
  • Such highly resilient multifilament yams can be utilized in various fabric constructions and garments made therefrom.
  • Embodiments of the present invention include articles of manufacture, for example clothing, apparel, and medical gannents, produced from fabrics containing such a yam.
  • Garments made from such multifilament yams avoid exposure of a wearer's skin to irritating monofilament yams and cut ends of monofilament yarns and thus provide garment wearing satisfaction and comfort not available with garments containing monofilament yams .
  • Embodiments of the present invention provide a highly resilient, multifilament yarn that can be utilized in both weft-knitted and wa ⁇ -knitted fabric structures and in either single or double needle knitting systems. Accordingly, a highly resilient, a low filament number, multifilament yam of the present invention can be used to produce a multi-layer, weft knit spacer fabric, a multi-layer, wa ⁇ knit spacer fabric, a single layer, wa ⁇ knit fabric, and/or a single layer, weft knit fabric. Such a highly resilient, low filament number, multifilament yarn bundle provides desired characteristics of stiffness and resistance to bending without being an uncomfortable irritant against the skin of a person wearing a garment made with such fabrics.
  • embodiments comprise a multifilament yarn having a very few continuous filaments that are highly resilient.
  • the filaments are either twisted or intermingled to facilitate maintaining the individual filaments sufficiently in the yam bundle.
  • Such twisting or intermingling helps the yam to maintain a bundle integrity suitable for forming fabric in weft-knitted and/or wa ⁇ - knitted fabric constructions.
  • the multiple filaments are "up- twisted," the higher the number of turns, or 360 degree twists, that are imparted in each inch length of yarn, the more resilient the resulting yarn becomes, and the greater its stiffness, or resistance to bending.
  • a low filament number, multifilament yarn having a total denier size comparable to a high denier monofilament includes only a few filaments such that the finer denier of each individual filament would not irritate a wearer's skin.
  • a highly resilient, low filament number multifilament, continuous, synthetic yam comprises a spacer yarn in a multilayer weft knit fabric.
  • the multi-layer fabric can be made using both dial and cylinder needle beds.
  • the composite fabric has two discrete knit fabric layers that are secured in a substantially parallel and spaced apart relationship. A plurality of the resilient spacer yams extend between the two fabric layers and secure the two fabric layers in a substantially uniformly spaced apart manner.
  • the two fabric layers may be formed using a combination of stitches, such as knit, miss, and/or tuck stitches.
  • a multi-layer weft knit fabric includes two parallel knit fabric layers, at least one of the fabric layers having an integrally knitted decorative Jacquard design.
  • the Jacquard design can use one or more patterns, such as geometric, free-form, floral, abstract, brand logos, and the like on the outer, technical face surface of the fabric layer.
  • the other layer can include either a decorative design effect on the outer, technical face surface or a less decorative construction.
  • the two fabric layers are joined together by a series of knit or laid-in courses utilizing a highly resilient, low filament number, multifilament yam forming spacer yarns.
  • the spacer yams secure the two layers together in a spaced apart relationship relative to each other.
  • the Jacquard design may be formed using a combination of stitches, including knit, miss, and/or tuck stitches.
  • the less decorative fabric layer construction may be formed using a combination of stitches including knit, miss, and/or tuck stitches.
  • a fabric formed on a single needle bed of a circular or flat weft knitting machine comprises a highly resilient, low filament number, multifilament yam.
  • Such a process can produce a single knit fabric structure in which the multifilament yarn can be used as a ground yarn and/or can provide a visual effect, such as a sheer quality to the fabric. Because such a fabric is single knit, the resilient multifilament yam provides a non-irritating surface for contact with the skin of the wearer of a garment made from the fabric.
  • a fabric formed on a multi-guide bar wa ⁇ knitting machine having either a single-needle bar or double-needle bar comprises a highly resilient, low filament number, multifilament yam.
  • the resilient multifilament yam can be combined with an elastomeric yam such as spandex to function as a ground yam or as a visual effect yam.
  • Use of such a yam can provide a desired sheemess, as well as resilience, to the fabric construction, while simultaneously avoiding stiff monofilament yam irritation to a wearer's skin.
  • the resilient multifilament yam can be utilized as a spacer ya between layers of fabric.
  • a multi-layer weft knit fabric includes two discrete knit fabric layers comprising continuous, multifilament, synthetic yams.
  • the multifilament yams can be flat or textured and have a denier in a range of about 20- 300, preferably about 30-150 denier in size.
  • the multifilament yams can include spandex yams in a range of about 20-70 denier.
  • the spacer courses between the two layers comprise highly resilient, continuous, low filament number multifilament yams in a range of about 20-150 denier in size.
  • the highly, or substantially totally, resilient, continuous, low filament number multifilament spacer yams comprise polyester or nylon yarn in a range of about 40-100 total denier in size.
  • the multifilament spacer yams comprise individual filaments that have a denier in a range of about 3-10 denier per filament.
  • Any of the conventional synthetic polymer fibers may be utilized to produce a highly resilient, low filament number, multifilament yam of the present invention.
  • thermally heat-settable, synthetic, continuous filaments produced from nylon, polyester, and/or blends thereof may be used to produce multifilament yarns according to the present invention.
  • Multifilament yams according to the present invention can be twisted or intermingled to produce, for example, 20/2, 20/4, 30/6, 40/8, 50/10, 60/12, 70/8, 80/10, and 100/12 yarns, formed using conventional up-twisting or intermingling methods and techniques.
  • Twisting or intermingling filaments provides additional qualities of resilience and stiffness that achieve desired performance characteristics in engineered fabrics. Yet, using individual filaments in the multifilament bundle each having a fine denier allows a resulting yam and fabrics and garments including such yams to be non-irritating to a wearer's skin, even when exposed to cut ends of the yarns.
  • polyester and/or nylon continuous, low filament number, multifilament yams advantageously provide heat setting properties that allow fabrics made with such yams to be heat-molded to a desired form and shape.
  • polyester and/or nylon multifilament yams according to the present invention can be utilized in single knitted weft or wa ⁇ knit constructions, as spacer yams in multi-layer weft knit or wa ⁇ knit fabrics, and as a molded breast cup in a brassiere garment.
  • embodiments include methods of making low filament number, multifilament yams and fabrics comprising such yams as described above.
  • a highly resilient, multifilament yam, and products made therefrom, of the present invention provide numerous advantages over prior yams and textile products.
  • the present invention advantageously provides a multifilament yarn that comprises a low number of filaments in the yam bundle and that is highly resilient. Such resilience allows yams of the present invention to resist deformation and bending similar to a monofilament yam.
  • the present invention provides a low filament number, multifilament yam having a total denier size comparable to a high denier monofilament yarn such that the finer denier of each individual filament would not irritate a wearer's skin.
  • the present invention advantageously provides a multifilament yarn that is highly resilient and that is comfortable to a wearer of such yam, particularly around seams where fabric is cut and the fabric edges are sewn into garments.
  • the present invention provides a highly resilient multifilament yam that can be utilized in various fabric constructions.
  • Highly resilient and non-irritating ya s of the present invention can be used in both weft- knitted and wa ⁇ -knitted fabric structures and in either single or double needle knitting systems.
  • Yarns of the present invention can be advantageously utilized as spacer yams in either weft-knit or wa ⁇ -knit multi-layer fabrics, and for producing visual effects such as sheerness or Tricot or Raschel-made patterns.
  • the present invention provides highly resilient, non- irritating, multifilament yams that may be utilized in garments, such as clothing, apparel, and medical garments, that allow wearer satisfaction and comfort not available with garments containing monofilament yams.
  • FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a multifilament yam in an embodiment of the present invention.
  • FIG. 2 is a perspective view of another multifilament yam in an embodiment of the present invention.
  • FIG. 3 is a cross-sectional view of a weft knit, multi-layer spacer fabric in an embodiment of the present invention.
  • FIG. 4 is a diagram of a weft knitting sequence used in forming a decorative Jacquard design on a fabric face layer of the multi-layer spacer fabric in FIG. 3 in an embodiment using a multifilament yam according to the present invention.
  • FIG. 5 is a diagram of another weft knitting sequence used in forming a substantially less decorative face of a multi-layer spacer fabric in an embodiment using a multifilament yam according to the present invention.
  • FIG. 6 is a diagram of a wa ⁇ knitting construction stitch diagram for forming a multi- layer spacer fabric in an embodiment using a multifilament yam according to the present invention.
  • FIG. 7 is a diagram of another wa ⁇ knitting construction stitch diagram for forming a conventional single layer fabric in an embodiment using a multifilament yam according to the present invention.
  • FIG. 8 is a knitting diagram for using a multifilament yam according to the present invention.
  • FIG. 9 illustrates a brassiere intimate apparel garment utilizing fabric as depicted in
  • FIG. 4 comprising a multifilament yam in an embodiment of the present invention.
  • FIG. 10 shows a cross-section of the brassiere cup in FIG. 9 detailing a multifilament yam in an embodiment of the present invention.
  • Figures 1-10 show embodiments of a highly resilient, non-irritating, multifilament yam of the present invention and products made from such ya s.
  • a yam according to one embodiment of the present invention includes a low number of individual monofilaments 6.
  • the monofilaments 6 are combined together by up-twisting the individual monofilaments together using either an S-twist or Z twist direction with a significant number of 360 degree rums per inch of yam length.
  • the yam a 20 denier continuous filament, synthetic nylon or polyester yarn.
  • the yam includes 4 individual monofilaments, each a highly resilient filament having a denier size of 5.
  • Such a yam can also be formed using as few as 2 individual filaments, for example a 20 denier, 2 filament yarn, designated as 20/2 (20 denier/2 filaments).
  • the yam has a twist of 10 to 16 minimum turns per inch along the length of the yam.
  • a yam according to the present invention can have as few as one or two twists per centimeter or inch of yam length.
  • the 20 denier, 4 filament yam as illustrated in FIG. 1 can be air entangled as in FIG. 2, instead of twisted as shown in FIG.l.
  • the filaments may be air entangled with as few as 2 entanglement nodes per meter of length and as many as up to 8, 10, 12, or 14 entanglement nodes per meter of yarn length.
  • the dynamics of twisting individual fibers or filaments into a composite yam can produce varied degrees of stiffness and stability depending on the number of turns per inch of twist that are induced. In general, as the number of turns per inch are increased, the stiffness index and resilience, or resistance to bending, characteristics of the yarn increase proportionally.
  • a yam such as that illustrated in Fig. 1 would impart superior resilience properties when inco ⁇ orated into a knitted fabric structure.
  • such a yarn soft to the touch after it has been severed by fabric cut and sew operations during garment manufacturing and thus would not be irritating against the skin of the garment wearer.
  • a low number of individual monofilaments 8 are combined together using conventional intermingling techniques such as heated-air entanglement to form the total composite yam.
  • the yarn as illustrated comprises a continuous filament synthetic nylon or polyester yarn of about 70-72 denier.
  • the yam includes 8 individual monofilaments, each a highly resilient filament having a denier size of 9.
  • Fig. 3 is a cross-sectional view cut parallel to the course-wise or weft direction of a multi-layered weft knit, spacer fabric.
  • Fabric 10 contains a yarn according to the present invention, and includes a first layer 12.
  • Layer 12 can be either a substantially decorative Jacquard pattern design or a substantially less decorative non- Jacquard face.
  • a second layer 14 is a substantially less decorative design.
  • a plurality of spacer yams 16 are secured within each of the respective knit fabric layers 12, 14, to maintain and secure each of the respective layers 12, 14 in a spaced-apart relationship relative to each other.
  • a space 18 is created between the first discrete fabric layer 12 and the second discrete fabric layer 14.
  • Spacer yams 16 can be either of the yams shown in the embodiments in Fig. 1 and Fig. 2.
  • the spacer yams 16 are selected for their optimum resilience to bending related to denier and filament count.
  • the spacer yams 16 will maintain the first and second discrete fabric layers 12, 14 in a spaced- apart relationship and as a unified composite fabric when subjected to stretching or to a heat molding process.
  • the yams forming the first discrete knitted layer 12, i.e. the substantially decorative surfaced Jacquard design pattern are synthetic, continuous filament yams such as those made from polymers such as nylon or polyester, or blends thereof, or the like.
  • the yams are desirably 20-200 denier multifilament nylon or polyester yams, 10-70 denier spandex yarns, 18/1 's - 60/1 's spun equivalent nylon, polyester, or cotton count, or blends or combinations thereof.
  • textured multifilament semi-dull or matte luster yams are particularly preferred as the resultant extreme differences between the lusters of such yams serve to accentuate the contrast between the pattern design motif and the surrounding ground knit areas.
  • Elastomeric spandex yams are integral to the fabric construction creating the desired amount of stretch needed for the end use application, and are heat thermo- settable for any subsequent post-molding process such as brassiere cups for example, as well as the recovery of the fabric from the amount of stretch imparted, and the spandex recovery force serves to enhance the spacer fabric composite thickness by enabling it to maintain the desired spaced relationship of the first and second discrete fabric layers.
  • the substantially less decorative back or lining layer of the multi-layer spacer fabric is desirably knit from the same yams as described for the first discrete fabric layer, and can either have a substantially fancy and decorative outer surface or one that is formed using a combination of stitches selected from a group consisting of simple knit, miss, or tuck.
  • the multi- layer weft knit spacer fabric is the primary substrate used as a molded breast cup for a brassiere, a desirable yam selection for this fabric layer would be one of a relatively soft to the touch fine filament yam, preferably textured, and resulting in comfort against the skin of the wearer.
  • Yarns created under the embodiments of the present invention may also be used in fabric layer 12 in order to facilitate a decorative effect whereby a combination of a essentially heavier denier continuous multifilament synthetic yam such as flat or textured nylon or polyester in contrast to a finer, more transparent yam of low filament count according to the present invention, taking full advantage of the comfort properties afforded by embodiments of the present invention instead of choosing a clear or semi-dull monofilament fine denier ya as would normally be used by those skilled in the art.
  • the spacer yams 16 preferably comprise substantially resilient continuous low multifilament yams in a range of 20 denier- 150 denier in size, or, more preferably substantially resilient continuous low multifilament polyester or nylon yam in a range of 40 -100 total denier in size, and comprised of individual filaments that are in a range from 3 denier- 10 denier per each filament.
  • the yams are described as desirably in a range of 70-300 denier continuous multifilament yams such as polyester or nylon, or a monofilament polyester or nylon yam in a size range of 20-80 denier.
  • a multifilament yam is also preferred over a monofilament yam, for example, as in the case of heat molding to fo ⁇ n a shaped breast cup component of a brassiere, and the fabric stretches to conform to the mold shape, a sufficient population of multifilament yams in the spacer yam 16 assures that the spacer composite does not sheer out and lose the desirable opacity in appearance of the finished molded cup part, and the subsequent finished brassiere garment.
  • FIGS. 4 and 5 illustrate embodiments of a method of producing the fabric 10.
  • FIG.4 illustrates a design pattern repeat for forming a Jacquard patterned design spacer fabric according to the present invention, with the dial and cylinder needles of the knitting machine being a ⁇ anged in a standard or rib gaiting.
  • the sequence of knitting uses essentially all needles of the cylinder and dial in forming the spacer connections except when the spacer yarn becomes involved with those particular needles of the cylinder whereby the Jacquard selected needles are tucking on specific cylinder needles according to the desired pattern design using Feed 3 and Feed 6.
  • Feed 1 of the sequence illustrates the yam 28 as it is fed in a reciprocating manner between the dial and cylinder needle beds only to every other needle of each bed; this yarn 28 will fom the spacer yams 16 in the fabric 10.
  • Feed 2 forms the first discrete fabric layer on all needles of the dial from spandex yams 32 that are plaited along with textured synthetic multifilament ya s 30, forming layer 14 in fabric 10.
  • Feed 3 fo ⁇ ns the first discrete fabric layer on the all cylinder needles inco ⁇ orating the Jacquard design on the technical face through selection of knit or tuck stitches (taking care never to tuck on the same needle that the previous spacer yam from Feed 1 was inlay tucked on due to the necessity for holding down the inlayed tuck spacer yam on that needle with a subsequent knit stitch so as to keep it from rising up and moving out off the desired position to facilitate the exact knitting sequence and spacer yam positioning) using the spandex yam 32 plaited with flat bright luster synthetic multifilament yam 34, forming Jacquard selected decorative layer 12 in fabric 10.
  • Feed 4 illustrates the spacer yam 28 as it is fed in a reciprocating manner between the dial and cylinder needle beds to the alternate needles that were not fed yarn from feed 1, and forms spacer yarns 16 in fabric 10.
  • Feed 5 just like Feed 2 forms the second discrete fabric layer on all needles of the dial from spandex yams 32 plaited along with textured synthetic multifilament yams 30.
  • Feed 6 forms the first discrete fabric layer on all cylinder needles inco ⁇ orating the Jacquard design on the technical face through selection of knit or tuck stitches (and, just as in the case of Feed 3, taking care never to tuck on the same needle that the previous spacer yam from Feed 4 was inlay tucked on due to the necessity for holding down the inlayed tuck spacer yam on that needle with a subsequent knit stitch so as to keep it from rising up and moving out off the desired position to facilitate the exact knitting sequence and spacer yam positioning) using the spandex yarn 32 plaited with flat bright luster synthetic multifilament yam 34, forming layer 12 in fabric 10.
  • Feed 1 of the sequence illustrates a low multifilament highly resilient spacer yarn of the present invention 54 as it is fed in a reciprocating manner between the dial and cylinder needle beds to essentially inlay tuck on every other or alternate needles of both needle beds.
  • This yam 54 will form the spacer yams 16 in fabric 10.
  • Feed 2 forms the second discrete fabric layer on alternate dial needles from spandex yarn 58 that is plaited along with flat or textured synthetic multifilament yarn 56, forming layer 14 in fabric 10.
  • Feed 3 also forms the second discrete fabric layer on alternate dial needles missed by Feed 2 and completes the continuous course of knitted jersey of the second discrete fabric layer 1 on the dial using spandex yams 58 plaited along with textured continuous multifilament yam 60.
  • Feed 4 knits on alternate needles of the cylinder using spandex yams 58 plaited along with flat or textured continuous multifilament yam 60 forming the non- Jacquard design less decorative first discrete fabric layer 12 of fabric 10.
  • Feed 5 also forms the first discrete fabric layer on alternate needles of the cylinder missed by Feed 4 and completes the continuous course of knitted jersey of the first discrete fabric layer on the cylinder using spandex yams 58 plaited along with flat or textured continuous multifilament yam 60.
  • Feed 6, like Feed 1, illustrates a low multifilament highly resilient spacer yarn of the present invention 54 as it is fed in a reciprocating ma ier between the dial and cylinder needle beds to essentially inlay tuck on the alternate needles missed by Feed 1. This yarn 54 will form the spacer yarns 16 in fabric 10.
  • Feed 7, like feed 2 forms the second discrete fabric layer on alternate dial needles from spandex yarn 58 that is plaited along with flat or textured synthetic multifilament yarn 56, forming layer 12 in fabric 10.
  • Feed 8, like feed 3 also forms the second discrete fabric layer on alternate dial needles missed by Feed 7 and completes the continuous course of knitted jersey of the second discrete fabric layer 14 on the dial using spandex yams 58 plaited along with textured continuous multifilament yarn 60.
  • Feed 9, like Feed 4 knits on alternate needles of the cylinder using spandex yams 58 plaited along with flat or textured continuous multifilament yam 60 forming the non- Jacquard design less decorative first discrete fabric layer 12 of fabric 10.
  • Feed 10 like Feed 5 forms the first discrete fabric layer on alternate needles of the cylinder missed by Feed 9 and completes the continuous course of knitted jersey of the first discrete fabric layer on the cylinder using spandex yarns 58 plaited along with flat or textured continuous multifilament yarn 60.
  • FIG 6. illustrates an alternate method of forming a spacer fabric on a wa ⁇ knit machine having two needle bars and at least four guide bars.
  • Two discrete fabric layers are fo ⁇ ned separately on each of a front (F) and back (B) needle bar that are supplied yam from 4 individual guide bars.
  • BAR 1 is solid threaded with a bright luster 40 denier, 30 filament continuous multifilament yam 61.
  • Two discrete fabric layers are formed by alternately knitting back needle bar (B) only with yams 61 fed from BAR 1.
  • BAR 1 moves 0-0 and misses any overlapping of needles on the front needle bar (F), while an overlapping movement from space positions 1 to 3 on the back needle bar ("double-needle overlap") (1-3) knits on the back needle bar only, missing the front needle bar by again not overlapping (3-3), and knitting again on the back needle bar (B) as 2-0.
  • BAR 1 forms a first discrete fabric layer on the back (B) needle bar only.
  • BAR 4 with stitch notation as shown 2-0/0-0/1-3/3-3// only knits on the front needle bar and is solid threaded with a semi-dull luster 40 denier, 20 filament yam 65.
  • BAR 4 knits 2-0 (double needle overlap) on the front needle bar; misses the back needle bar (0-0); again knits on the front (F) needle bar only (1-3); and misses overlapping back the back needle bar (B) with a 3-3 instruction.
  • BAR 2 and BAR 3 alternately knit on both the front (F) and back (B) needle bars with stitch notation 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1// feeding 20 denier, 4 filament spacer yam 63 of the present invention connecting both of the first and second discrete fabric layers formed on the back and front needle bars and serving as the spacer yam securing said first and second discrete fabric layers in a parallel and spaced relationship with each other.
  • BAR 2 and BAR 3 are knitting exactly alike on all courses of both back and front needle bars and serve so as to result in a 40 denier, 8 filament single end result.
  • FIG. 7 illustrates a lap diagram of a sheer control single layer wa ⁇ knitted fabric formed using 2 guide bars of a standard multi-guide bar single needle bar Raschel machine and utilizes a yarn according to an embodiment of the present invention.
  • BAR 1 is solid threaded using 20 denier, 4 filament continuous multifilament synthetic yam shown as 69 and knits in a 0-2/2-0/4-2/2-4// stitch pattern notation.
  • Guide BAR 2 is solid threaded with a spandex ya of 210 denier shown as 70, and lays-in a 0-0/2-2/0-0/4-4// stitch pattern notation.
  • the resultant fabric is one having excellent high power and support properties while possessing a sheerness due to the relatively fine 20 denier used.
  • a 15 or 20 denier monofilament continuous synthetic yarn would satisfy the requirement for sheerness and resilience of fabric, however the monofilament ingredient would pose an irritation source after fabric is cut and sewn into an intimate apparel figure control garment and the severed ends of the 15 or 20 denier monofilament yams can ultimately come in contact with the skin of the gamient wearer.
  • a 20 denier, 4 filament yarn according to an embodiment of the present invention would fully satisfy such fabric requirements without the monofilament irritation problem.
  • FIG. 8 illustrates an alternative application of a yarn according to the present invention and as used as a styling tool in a single layer weft knit fabric. As shown in FIG. 8, a pointelle mesh is created using essentially transparent fine denier low multifilament yam.
  • FIG. 9 illustrates a brassiere 64, generally representative of an intimate apparel garment, utilizing a fabric according to one embodiment of the present invention as illustrated and described in FIGS. 3 and 4.
  • the weft knit spacer Jacquard design patterned outer face fabric composite 10 is shown as used for the cup portions 66, and at once serves as the outer decorative fabric, the spaced middle layer, and the inner fabric layer, all in one stretchable, heat moldable composite fabric, instead of the garment manufacturer having to combine three or more different and separate components consisting of a decorative stylish outer face fabric, a middle layer of shaped foam or fiberf ⁇ ll padding, and a functional inner fabric lining layer.
  • FIG. 10 illustrates a cross-sectional view of the brassiere 64 as viewed in Fig.
  • FIG. 9 showing an embodiment of the present invention in an exemplary use as the brassiere breast cup component which serves to provide; an outer decorative faced fabric layer 66 which is described as 12 of fabric 10 from FIGS. 3 and 4, and as viewed from the face of the garment, a spacer middle layer comprised of spacer yarns 16 fomiing spaced thickness area 18 as in FIG. 3, and a discrete inner cup lining fabric layer 14, which at once completes the brassiere cup constraction in one unified integrally knitted weft knit spacer fabric composite thereby minimizing the number of steps in the garment manufacturing process by providing one multifunctional fabric substrate instead the use of three or more individual components for construction of the brassiere cup.
  • the highly resilient spacer yams 16 are embodiments of the present invention as illustrated in FIG. 1 and FIG. 2.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Abstract

Fil multifilament comprenant un faible nombre de filaments dans un faisceau de fibres qui est extrêmement résilient et confortable pour l'utilisateur portant ce tissu composé dudit fil. Les fils peuvent être utilisés dans différents constructions d'étoffe telles que des tricots à mailles espacées, cueillies, multicouches, des tricotés à mailles espacées, jetées, multicouches, des tricots à mailles jetées, monocouches et des tricots à mailles cueillies, monocouches. Les fils et les tissus multifilaments, extrêmement résilients, non irritants, ainsi formés, peuvent être utilisés de manière avantageuse dans des articles tels que des vêtements, des tissus vestimentaires et des sous-vêtements de soutien médical.
PCT/US2004/006004 2003-02-28 2004-02-28 Fil multifilament extremement resilient et produits obtenus a partir de celui-ci WO2004079064A2 (fr)

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US45130703P 2003-02-28 2003-02-28
US60/451,307 2003-02-28
US10/788,572 US20040168479A1 (en) 2003-02-28 2004-02-27 Highly resilient multifilament yarn and products made therefrom

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WO2004079064A3 WO2004079064A3 (fr) 2005-02-17

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