WO2004004674A1 - Preparation cosmetique pour traiter une peau seche ou sensible - Google Patents

Preparation cosmetique pour traiter une peau seche ou sensible Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2004004674A1
WO2004004674A1 PCT/EP2003/006906 EP0306906W WO2004004674A1 WO 2004004674 A1 WO2004004674 A1 WO 2004004674A1 EP 0306906 W EP0306906 W EP 0306906W WO 2004004674 A1 WO2004004674 A1 WO 2004004674A1
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Prior art keywords
weight
acid
preparation
skin
preparation according
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PCT/EP2003/006906
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Helga Biergiesser
Thomas Döring
Volker Schreiner
Wilfried Siefken
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Beiersdorf Ag
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Publication of WO2004004674A1 publication Critical patent/WO2004004674A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/066—Multiple emulsions, e.g. water-in-oil-in-water
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/20—Halogens; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

  • the invention comprises a cosmetic preparation containing polyhydroxyalkylamine and electrolytes, such as table salt or sea salt, and / or osmolytes, such as taurine or betaine, and / or polyol, such as glycerol or inositol.
  • polyhydroxyalkylamine and electrolytes such as table salt or sea salt
  • osmolytes such as taurine or betaine
  • polyol such as glycerol or inositol.
  • the cosmetic preparation restores normal skin moisture, provides long-lasting moisture and has a soothing effect on the skin.
  • the skin is the largest organ in humans. It fulfills a variety of functions, e.g. Heat regulation, sensory organ for sensation of touch and warmth, barrier function and, above all, protection against dehydration.
  • the skin can be divided into three histologically distinguishable layers:
  • the outermost layer is the epidermis. As a boundary layer, it forms the actual protective cover against the environment. At around a tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin.
  • the epidermis is a stratified tissue in which the outer layer, the horny layer (stratum corneum), is the important part for the barrier function. It is worn in contact with the environment and is therefore in a constant process of renewal, whereby fine scales are continuously released to the outside and horny cell and lipid material is reproduced from the inside.
  • the dermis also known as the corium or dermis.
  • the main function of this mesodermal connective tissue is to supply the epidermis. It is formed from elastic, collagen and reticular fibers and has a large number of plasma and mast cells.
  • the subcutis (subcutis) consists of loose connective tissue with more or less numerous stored fat cells.
  • the thickness of the subcutaneous tissue primarily depends on the diet. But the genetic predisposition also plays a significant role.
  • Chronological skin aging is e.g. caused by endogenous, genetically determined factors. In the epidermis and dermis it occurs due to aging e.g. the following structural damage and malfunctions, which may also fall under the term "senile xerosis":
  • Exogenous factors such as UV light and chemical pollutants, can be cumulative and thus further damage the skin
  • Dry skin and desiccation eczema do not only occur as a result of skin aging, but generally in a large number of people, especially in winter. Another reason for dry and sensitive skin is excessive bathing or showering. Dry skin is particularly caused by heavy use, frequent washing or showering with soap agents, frequent contact with fat-dissolving agents, cleaning agents and disinfectants. Likewise, excessive fluid drainage, also from drinking too little, can remove moisture from the skin. Dry skin and desiccation eczema bothers itching and can also lead to bacterial infections of the skin. Dry skin loses its suppleness and smoothness, it becomes brittle and cracked and painful. The surface of the skin becomes more and more horny under heavy stress. Dry skin then becomes more susceptible to allergic reactions. The "dry" skin appears particularly thin (parchment-like) and fine-pored. Due to its low fat production and its poor ability to store moisture, it also tends to sensitive reactions to climatic influences and early wrinkling.
  • skin care and skin protection agents containing skin moisturizers are known. These humectants are di- and / or polyhydroxyalkylamines or their salts.
  • the skin protection agents are only provided with customary cosmetic ingredients, such as emulsifiers, fats, solvents, fragrances, thickeners and / or preservatives.
  • moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the horny layer (also known as trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or hydrating the skin after application or distribution on the skin surface To influence the horny layer positively.
  • TEWL trans-epidermal water loss
  • moisturizers are e.g. Glycerol.
  • EP-A1-1075835 discloses compositions with propanediol derivatives as anti-aging agents.
  • glycerine is also present in a maximum amount of 1% by weight, based on the total composition. From the examples disclosed, it is clear that glycerin is not a mandatory component of the skin protection agent. An amount of more than 1% by weight of glycerin is not disclosed.
  • the disadvantage of the known skin moisturizers is an insufficient long-term effect and a sticky skin feel.
  • R mono-, di- or trihydroxyalkyl radical with a carbon chain C - C 6
  • R 3 H, alkyl radical with a carbon chain d - d 8 or mono-, di- or trihydroxyalkyl radical with a carbon chain C 2 - C 6 , or whose salts are
  • the cosmetic preparation according to the invention contains 0.5 to 10.0% by weight, particularly preferably 1 to 5.0% by weight, of polyhydroxyalkylamines, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the preferred polyhydroxyalkylamine is 1-amino-2,3-propanediol and / or 2-amino-1,3-propanediol (serinol).
  • the salts of the polyhydroxyalkylamines, in particular the lactates, can likewise be regarded as particularly preferred.
  • the cosmetic preparation contains electrolytes in a proportion of 0.1 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 1 to 5% by weight and / or organic osmolytes in a concentration of 0.1 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.3 -1% by weight and / or polyols in a concentration of more than 1% by weight and up to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 2 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • Preferred polyols are diols or polyols of low C number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and the like Called products.
  • Inositol, sorbitol and mannitol have also proven to be particularly preferred as polyols according to the invention.
  • moisturizers can also be used, such as lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride gum-1, glycine soy, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea.
  • lactates in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride gum-1, glycine soy, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea.
  • polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gellable polysaccharides.
  • Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. is available under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA SA.
  • Moisturizers, such as polyols have the advantage that they are also advantageously used as anti-wrinkle active ingredients for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as, for example, B. occur in skin aging, can be used.
  • NaCl rock salt
  • sea salt sea salt
  • / or aqueous chloride solution are to be mentioned as electrolytes according to the invention.
  • taurine and / or betaine are understood as osmolytes.
  • the preparation according to the invention can advantageously contain conventional cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those having a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, polymers, foam stabilizers and, in particular, one or more thickeners which can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, Aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, cellulose ethers such as e.g. Hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles [from Bf. Goodrich], for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, ETD 2001, ETD 2020 , ETD 2050, Ultrez 10, each individually or in combination.
  • conventional cosmetic auxiliaries such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those having a low C number, preferably
  • the preparation can further advantageously contain cosmetic substances, although not necessarily, fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin.
  • cosmetic substances for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither primarily UV filter nor coloring effects (such as e.g. B. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile ® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).
  • O / W emulsifiers which are advantageous according to the invention are preferably selected according to the invention from the following group: glyceryl stearate in combination with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-6 in combination with stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol in combination with PEG-40 castor oil and sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, triceteareth 4 phosphate, glyceryl stearate, sodium cetyl stea ryl sulfate, lecithin trilaureth-4 phosphate, laureth-4 phosphate, stearic acid, propylene glycol stearate SE, PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-6 caprylic acid / capric acid glycerides, glyceryl oleate in
  • Glyceryl stearate citrate, cetearyl sulfate, ethoxylated fatty acids (PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate) and / or phosphate emulsifiers are used as O / W emulsifiers which are particularly advantageous according to the invention.
  • the W / O emulsifier (s) can be selected from the group of silicone emulsifiers.
  • the group of alkyl methicon copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols in particular from the group of compounds which are characterized by the following chemical structure: CH 3 CH 3 CH, CH 3 CH 3
  • OIC 2 H 4 - 0 - C 3 H 6 0-X in which X and Y are selected independently of one another from the group H (hydrogen) and the branched and unbranched alkyl groups, acyl groups and alkoxy groups with 1 - 24 carbon atoms, p a number of Represents 0-200, q represents a number 1-40, and r represents a number 1-100.
  • silicone emulsifiers to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention are dimethicone copolyols, which are available from Th. Goldschmidt AG under the trade names ABIL® B 8842, ABIL® B 8843, ABIL® B 8847, ABIL® B 8851, ABIL® B 8852, ABIL® B 8863, ABIL® B 8873 and ABIL® B 88183.
  • cetyl dimethicone copolyol is sold by the company Th. Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL® EM 90.
  • cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol which is sold by the company Th. Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL® EM 97.
  • the emulsifier laurylmethicone copolyol which is sold under the trademark Dow Corning® 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning Ltd., has proven to be particularly advantageous. is available.
  • Another advantageous silicone emulsifier is 'octyl dimethicone ethoxy glucoside' from Wacker.
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously be present as a water-in-oil emulsion.
  • the W / O emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the following group:
  • cetyldimethicone copolyol, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate and / or PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate are used particularly advantageously as W / O emulsifiers.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain dyes and / or color pigments, in particular if they are in the form of decorative cosmetics.
  • the individual phases of the preparation can advantageously be colored differently.
  • Embodiments of the invention in which only one of the two phases is colored are also advantageous according to the invention.
  • the dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food.
  • Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (e.g. Fe 2 O 3 , Fe 3 O 4 , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide.
  • Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.
  • the formulations according to the invention are in the form of products which are used on the face, it is advantageous to choose one or more substances from the following group as the dye: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'- nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthaiine, ceres red, 2- (sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1, 2'-azonaphthalene-1'- sulfonic acid, calcium and barium salts of 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid , Aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sul
  • quinophthalone disulfonic acid aluminum salt of indigo disulfonic acid
  • oil-soluble natural dyes such as. B. paprika extracts, beta-carotene or cochineal.
  • Formulations containing pearlescent pigments are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the types of pearlescent pigments listed below are particularly preferred:
  • Natural pearlescent pigments such as. B. ⁇ "Fish silver” (guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scales) and ⁇ “Mother-of-pearl” (milled mussel shells)
  • Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as B. bismuth oxychloride (BiOCI)
  • Layer-substrate pigments e.g. B. mica / metal oxide Pearlescent pigments are based, for example, on powdered pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. Particularly advantageous is e.g. B. the gloss pigment listed under CIN 77163.
  • pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide are also advantageous:
  • B the pearlescent pigments available from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona.
  • pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention can be obtained in numerous ways known per se.
  • other substrates besides mica can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. B. silica and the like.
  • Z are advantageous.
  • Iron pearlescent pigments are particularly preferred which, without the use fertilizer are produced by mica.
  • Such pigments are e.g. B. available under the trade name Sicopearl copper 1000 from BASF.
  • effect pigments which are available from Flora Tech under the trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in various colors (yello, red, green, blue).
  • the glitter particles are present in mixtures with various auxiliaries and dyes (such as the dyes with the Color Index (Cl) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).
  • the dyes and pigments can be present both individually and in combination and can be mutually coated, different color effects generally being produced by different coating thicknesses.
  • the total amount of dyes and coloring pigments is advantageously from the range of z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 0 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations ,
  • Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available, for example, from Lonza under the trade name Glydant TM), iodopropyl butyl carbamate (for example those under the trade names Glycacil-L , Glycacil-S available from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, Benzoic acid and the like.
  • the preservation system according to the invention advantageously also includes preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc.
  • Advantageous complexing agents for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, EDTA, [S, S] -ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS), which is available, for example, from Octel under the trade name Octaquest, pentasodium-ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate, which, for. B. is available under the trade name Dequest 2046 from Monsanto and / or iminodisuccinic acid, which is available from Bayer AG under the trade names Iminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (approx. 30% solution) and Baypure CX 100 is.
  • An additional content of antioxidants in the preparation is generally preferred. According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L- Carnosine and its derivatives (e.g. Anserin), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g.
  • amino acids eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles eg urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L- Carnosine and its derivatives (e.g. Anserin)
  • carotenoids e.g.
  • thiols e.g. Thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters
  • salts dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thio dipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • buthionine sulfoximines homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta- hexinsulfones, penta-) ⁇ -, heptathionesulfoximine
  • very low tolerable doses eg pmol to ⁇ mol / kg
  • metal chelators eg ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), ⁇ -hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid)
  • Humic acid bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g.
  • ⁇ -linolenic acid linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and their derivatives ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives
  • vitamin C and Derivatives e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate
  • tocopherols and derivatives e.g.
  • vitamin E acetate
  • vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A palmitate
  • the amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-5 % By weight, in particular 0.1-2% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to use their respective concentrations in the range of 0.001-2% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation. to choose.
  • selected formulations according to the invention are suitable, which for.
  • B. known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially ⁇ -glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as z. B. occur with skin aging (eg wrinkles and fine lines).
  • ⁇ -glycosylrutin is the antioxidant, it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain UV filter substances. Such preparations can advantageously be used as sunscreens in the sense of the present invention.
  • cosmetic and dermatological preparations the main purpose of which is not protection against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain other UV protection substances, are extremely advantageous embodiments of the present invention according to the invention.
  • B. in day care products or make-up products usually incorporated UV-A or UV-B filter substances. UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection for the preparations themselves against spoilage.
  • the preparations in the sense of the present invention preferably contain at least one UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment reflecting and / or absorbing UV light.
  • the Formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.
  • UV protection substances are exclusively in one of the two phases or in both phases of the preparations according to the invention.
  • the preparations according to the invention can also advantageously be in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological preparations which contain a water phase and at least one UV filter substance which is liquid at room temperature as a further phase.
  • Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), Silicon (SiO 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (AI 2 O 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium ( BaSO 4 ).
  • the pigments can also advantageously be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersing aids and / or solubilizing agents can advantageously be added to these predispersions.
  • the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character should be formed or retained. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are prepared using a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer
  • the various surface coatings can also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.
  • Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al 2 O 3 ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) 3 , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) 6l sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) n , silicon dioxide (SiO 2 ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), barium sulfate (BaSO 4 ) or iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 ).
  • Al 2 O 3 aluminum oxide
  • Al (OH) 3 aluminum hydroxide Al
  • aluminum oxide hydrate also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2
  • sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) 6l sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) n silicon dioxide (SiO 2 ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), bar
  • Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel) or alginic acid.
  • These organic surface coatings can occur in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.
  • Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the listed companies:
  • Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:
  • UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • dibenzoyl methane derivatives in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:
  • 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene)
  • Benzene-1, 4- di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephthalic Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS No.
  • Hydroxybenzophenone derivatives e.g. 2- (4-Diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester, which is available, for example, from BASF under the trade name Uvinul® A Plus.
  • benzoxazole derivatives such as 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzossazol-2-yl- (4- phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1, 3, 5-triazine (CAS No .: 288254-16-0), which is available, for example, from 3V Sigma.
  • Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
  • Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as. B.
  • An advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is also 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol ), CAS No .:
  • Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1, 3,3,3-tetramethyl-1- [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisilo- xane, which is available under the trade name Mexoryl® XL from Chimex.
  • the other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances in the sense of the present invention are e.g. B .:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
  • Particularly advantageous preparations within the meaning of the present invention which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A and / or UV-B protection, preferably also contain further UV-A and in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention / or broadband filter, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], phenylene-1, 4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or their salts, the 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester and / or the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine and / or the 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropy
  • the UV light protection filters advantageous according to the invention are preferably used in a concentration of 0.1 to 30% by weight, in particular in a concentration of 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • the sunscreen preparations advantageous according to the invention contain, as organic filters, asymmetrically substituted triazines, bisimidazylates and / or benzotriazoles.
  • film formers into the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention, for example in order to improve the water resistance of the preparations or to increase the UV protection performance (UV-A and / or UV-B boosting).
  • Both water-soluble or dispersible and fat-soluble film formers are suitable, in each case individually or in combination with one another.
  • Avalure® types from Goodrich
  • Dimethicone Copolyol Polyacrylate Silsoft Surface® from the Witco Organo Silicones Group
  • Advantageous fat-soluble film formers are e.g. B., the film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)
  • copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosen copolymer, which are available under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 from GAF Chemicals Cooperation, as well as Tricontayl PVP and the like.
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention can be composed as usual and can be used for cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection, for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.
  • thickeners are used in the preparations according to the invention.
  • these can advantageously be selected from the group of gums.
  • Gums include plant or tree sap that harden in the air and form resins or extracts from aquatic plants.
  • Gum arabic, locust bean gum, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algine, chondrus, xanthan gum can advantageously be selected from this group for the purposes of the present invention.
  • derivatized gums such as e.g. Hydroxy-propyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8).
  • polysaccharides and derivatives are e.g. Hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulfates, starch and starch derivatives as advantageous thickeners according to the invention.
  • cellulose derivatives are e.g. Methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyicellulose as advantageous thickeners according to the invention.
  • Layered silicates contain naturally occurring and synthetic clays such as Montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Veegum®. These can be used as such or in a modified form as thickeners, e.g. Stearylalkonium hektorite.
  • silica gels can also advantageously be used.
  • the polyacrylates include e.g. Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, ETD 2001, ETD 2020, ETD 2050 or Pemulen TR1 & TR2).
  • Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, ETD 2001, ETD 2020, ETD 2050 or Pemulen TR1 & TR2).
  • polymers e.g. Polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols and ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer.
  • compositions according to the invention include, for example, panthenol, Allantoin, tannin, antihistamines, antiphlogistics, glucocorticoids (e.g. hydrocortisone) as well as plant substances such as azulene and bisabolol, glycyrrhizin, hamamelin and plant extracts such as chamomile, aloe vera, hamazelis, licorice root.
  • glucocorticoids e.g. hydrocortisone
  • plant substances such as azulene and bisabolol, glycyrrhizin, hamamelin and plant extracts such as chamomile, aloe vera, hamazelis, licorice root.
  • cosmetic and / or topical dermatological compositions within the meaning of the present invention, depending on their structure, can be used, for example, as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, hand cream, nutritional cream, day or night cream, cleansing gels, facial tonics, stick preparations, etc. It is possibly possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as a basis for pharmaceutical formulations.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics
  • Preparation A contains only 10% by weight glycerol
  • preparation B according to the invention contains 10% by weight serinol (2-amino-1, 3-propanediol) and lactic acid to adjust the preparation to pH 7.0
  • preparation C contains preparation 10% by weight of serinol and hydrochloric acid to adjust the preparation to pH 7.0.
  • the influence of glycerol and serinol in combination with electrolytes on the moisture content of cellulose nitrate membranes was then investigated by applying the preparations to cellulose nitrate membranes and the moisture content after 20 min using the Comeometer CM 825 ® from Courage + Khazaka (Cologne, Germany ) were measured.
  • preparation A contains no humectants
  • preparation B contains 5% by weight glycerol
  • preparation C according to the invention contains 2% by weight serinol and 3% by weight glycerin.
  • the influence of Serinol in combination with glycerin on the moisture content was examined.
  • Preparation C also produces a higher moisture content here than the comparison preparations. However, it is surprising that the synergistic combination of 3% glycerin with 2% serinol in relation to 5% pure glycerin gives better results.
  • preparation A being an aqueous solution with 10% glycerol
  • preparation B 10% sodium chloride
  • preparation C 10% serinol with hydrochloric acid in order to adjust the preparation to pH 7.0.
  • Serinol in combination with electrolytes was investigated.
  • the preparations were placed on cellulose nitrate membranes and the moisture content was measured after 5 and 60 minutes with the Comeometer CM 825 ® from Courage + Khazaka (Cologne, Germany).

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une préparation cosmétique contenant une polyhydroxyalkylamine et un électrolyte, tel que du sel de cuisine ou du sel de mer, et/ou un osmolyte, tel que de la taurine ou de la bétaïne, et/ou un polyol, tel que de la glycérine ou de l'inositol. Cette préparation cosmétique rétablit l'hydratation normale de la peau, offre une hydratation longue durée et exerce une action apaisante.
PCT/EP2003/006906 2002-07-04 2003-06-30 Preparation cosmetique pour traiter une peau seche ou sensible WO2004004674A1 (fr)

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DE2002130026 DE10230026A1 (de) 2002-07-04 2002-07-04 Kosmetische Zubereitung zur Behandlung trockener oder empfindlicher Haut

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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1579848A1 (fr) * 2004-03-23 2005-09-28 Beiersdorf AG Compositions contenant taurine pour améliorer la barrière de la peau
FR2885801A1 (fr) * 2005-05-20 2006-11-24 Sothys Paris Soc Par Actions S Composition cosmetique
WO2008098650A1 (fr) * 2007-02-13 2008-08-21 Beiersdorf Ag Procédé d'hydratation de la peau
US20100166814A1 (en) * 2008-12-24 2010-07-01 Lvmh Recherche Cosmetic Composition Containing At Least Two Osmolytes With A Moisturizing Or Antiaging Effect

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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DE102006049580A1 (de) * 2006-10-20 2008-04-24 Rochel, Michael, Dr. med. Topische Zusammensetzung zur Behandlung von Ekzemen

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US5208013A (en) * 1991-06-03 1993-05-04 Olympus International, Inc. Composition for skin care and protection
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EP1005853A1 (fr) * 1998-12-04 2000-06-07 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Utilisation de betaines comme agent antitranspirant
EP1075835A1 (fr) * 1999-08-09 2001-02-14 Shiseido Company Limited Utilisation de dérivés d'aminodiols dans des cosmétiques pour la peau
EP1090630A1 (fr) * 1998-03-11 2001-04-11 Kabushiki Kaisha Soken Agents de normalisation pour la peau
US6329413B1 (en) * 1999-07-23 2001-12-11 Alwyn Company, Inc. Allantoin-containing skin cream
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DE19618671A1 (de) * 1996-05-09 1997-11-13 Wella Ag Haar- und Hautbehandlungsmittel
DE19618670A1 (de) * 1996-05-09 1997-11-13 Wella Ag Haar- und Hautbehandlungsmittel

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US3726815A (en) * 1970-11-16 1973-04-10 Colgate Palmolive Co Compositions containing amino-polyureylene resin
DE2421618A1 (de) * 1974-05-04 1975-11-20 Henkel & Cie Gmbh Hautpflege- und hautschutzmittel mit einem gehalt an haut-feuchthaltemitteln
US5208013A (en) * 1991-06-03 1993-05-04 Olympus International, Inc. Composition for skin care and protection
EP0566340A1 (fr) * 1992-04-13 1993-10-20 Unilever Plc Composition cosmétique
EP1090630A1 (fr) * 1998-03-11 2001-04-11 Kabushiki Kaisha Soken Agents de normalisation pour la peau
US20020090386A1 (en) * 1998-05-04 2002-07-11 Haslwanter Joseph A. Skin barrier composition
EP1005853A1 (fr) * 1998-12-04 2000-06-07 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Utilisation de betaines comme agent antitranspirant
US6329413B1 (en) * 1999-07-23 2001-12-11 Alwyn Company, Inc. Allantoin-containing skin cream
EP1075835A1 (fr) * 1999-08-09 2001-02-14 Shiseido Company Limited Utilisation de dérivés d'aminodiols dans des cosmétiques pour la peau

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1579848A1 (fr) * 2004-03-23 2005-09-28 Beiersdorf AG Compositions contenant taurine pour améliorer la barrière de la peau
FR2885801A1 (fr) * 2005-05-20 2006-11-24 Sothys Paris Soc Par Actions S Composition cosmetique
WO2008098650A1 (fr) * 2007-02-13 2008-08-21 Beiersdorf Ag Procédé d'hydratation de la peau
US20100166814A1 (en) * 2008-12-24 2010-07-01 Lvmh Recherche Cosmetic Composition Containing At Least Two Osmolytes With A Moisturizing Or Antiaging Effect
US20130302389A1 (en) * 2008-12-24 2013-11-14 Lvmh Recherche Cosmetic composition containing at least two osmolytes with a moisturizing or antiaging effect

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