WO2003082237A2 - Formulations de protection solaire cosmetiques et dermatologiques hydroresistantes contenant une quantite d'esters acetyles de l'acide stearique - Google Patents

Formulations de protection solaire cosmetiques et dermatologiques hydroresistantes contenant une quantite d'esters acetyles de l'acide stearique Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2003082237A2
WO2003082237A2 PCT/EP2003/003099 EP0303099W WO03082237A2 WO 2003082237 A2 WO2003082237 A2 WO 2003082237A2 EP 0303099 W EP0303099 W EP 0303099W WO 03082237 A2 WO03082237 A2 WO 03082237A2
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
oil
cosmetic
water
soluble
peg
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2003/003099
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
WO2003082237A3 (fr
Inventor
Anja Göppel
Birgit Grotelüschen
Tobias Mann
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf Ag filed Critical Beiersdorf Ag
Priority to AU2003229572A priority Critical patent/AU2003229572A1/en
Priority to EP03722356A priority patent/EP1492497A2/fr
Publication of WO2003082237A2 publication Critical patent/WO2003082237A2/fr
Publication of WO2003082237A3 publication Critical patent/WO2003082237A3/fr

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to waterproof cosmetic and dermatological light protection preparations containing oil-soluble and / or oil-dispersible acetylated stearic acid esters and the use of such substances to increase the water resistance of cosmetic and dermatological light protection preparations.
  • the damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is generally known. Depending on their wavelength, the rays have different effects on the skin organ:
  • UV-C radiation with a wavelength between 100 and 280 nm is absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere and is therefore not found in the solar spectrum. It is therefore bathe without physiological significance sunning ⁇ .
  • UV-B range is between 290 nm and 320 nm. UV-B rays are essential for long-lasting tanning of the skin, but can also cause erythema, simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns. Chronic light damage, photodermatosis and herpes soiaris can also be caused by UV-B radiation.
  • UV-A radiation with a wavelength between 320 nm and 400 nm only a negligible biological ⁇ specific effect and in that, accordingly, the UV-B rays for most Light damage to human skin are responsible.
  • numerous studies have shown that UV-A radiation is far more dangerous than UV-B radiation in terms of triggering photodynamic, especially phototoxic reactions and chronic changes in the skin.
  • the damaging influence of UV-B radiation can also be intensified by UV-A radiation.
  • UV-A radiation reaching the earth consists of UV-A rays. While UV-B radiation varies greatly depending on numerous factors (e.g. time of year and time of day or latitude), UV-A radiation remains relatively constant day by day, irrespective of the time of year, day or geographical factors. At the same time, the majority of UV-A radiation penetrates the living epidermis, while around 70% of UV-B rays are retained by the horny layer.
  • the ultraviolet rays can be attenuated by two effects: firstly, by. Reflection and scattering of the rays on the surface of powdery solids (physical light protection) and on the other through absorption on chemical substances (chemical light protection). Depending on which wavelength range is absorbed, a distinction is made between UV-B filters (absorption range 280 to 320 nm), UV-A filters (absorption range 320 to 400 nm) and broadband filters (absorption range 290 to approx. 380 nm).
  • UV-B filters are e.g. B. derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and also 2-phenylbenzimidazole.
  • UV-A filter substances are certain water-soluble, sulfonated UV filter substances, such as. B. phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts.
  • This group of broadband filters includes, for example, asymmetrically substituted s-triazine compounds, such as. B. 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-thazine (INCI: Bis -Ethylhexyloxyiphenol methoxy-phenyl triazine), certain benzophenones, such as. B.
  • the light absorption behavior of light protection filter substances is very well known and documented, especially since in most industrialized countries there are positive lists for the use of such substances, which apply very strict standards to the documentation. Since not only the position of the absorption maximum, but above all the absorption range is important for the characterization of a filter substance, absorption spectra recorded for each substance. For the dosing of the substances in the finished formulations, however, the extinction values can at best provide guidance, because interactions with ingredients of the skin or the surface of the skin itself can cause uncertainties. Furthermore, it is generally difficult to estimate in advance how evenly and in what layer thickness the filter substance is distributed in and on the horny layer of the skin.
  • the IPD method (IPD s immediate pigment darkening) is usually used to test UV-A protection. Similar to the determination of the light protection factor, a value is determined which indicates how much longer the skin protected with the light protection agent can be irradiated with UV-A radiation; until the same pigmentation occurs as on unprotected skin.
  • Emulsions also play a decisive role in the field of sun protection formulations. Flowable or low-viscosity emulsions are preferred because they are easier to apply than viscous creams.
  • sunscreens are used near the water or during sporting activities (sweating), which is why the water resistance of such formulations is of particular importance.
  • a waterproof sunscreen not only protects the user after bathing, but also protects them during bathing before sunburn. It is a common misconception that water offers good or even sufficient protection against ultraviolet radiation. Rather, studies have shown that 1 m below the water surface the permeability to UV-B rays is approx. 50%. It is therefore advisable that water sports enthusiasts who z. B. swimmers, surfing or snorkeling, and especially children who often play for hours on or in the water, protect the skin with a well-adhering, difficult to rinse off water and sweat sun product from too intense and excessive sun exposure.
  • W / O formulations are usually an advantage.
  • W / O emulsions often have unsatisfactory cosmetic properties: When used, they can leave a greasy, shiny and sometimes sticky impression on the skin and can be difficult to spread, especially on hairy skin.
  • O / W emulsions on the other hand, have a less greasy effect on the skin, are more matting and quickly penetrate the skin. They are generally perceived by the consumer as lighter and more cosmetically elegant than W / O emulsions. Since water is the outer phase, O / W emulsions are usually only partially waterproof.
  • Copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone are particularly preferably used, for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosene copolymer, which are listed under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 are available from GAF Chemicals Cooperation, as well as Tricontayl PVP and the like.
  • the binding ability of the UV filter in or on the skin is of great importance for the water resistance of the formulation. It is understandable that oil-soluble UV filters are better bound to the (lipophilic) surface of the skin or are more difficult to wash off from it than water-soluble UV filters.
  • the preparations according to the present invention show very good sensory and cosmetic properties, such as, for example, the spreadability on the skin or the ability to be absorbed into the skin, and are also notable for very good light protection effectiveness, an extremely high UV-A and / or UV B protection performance and excellent water resistance combined with excellent skin care data. It was particularly astonishing that it is possible to dispense entirely with conventional film formers which are used according to the prior art to increase the water resistance.
  • preparations are termed water-resistant which, according to the following test, still have at least 50% of the originally available sun protection factor:
  • preparations within the meaning of the present invention are also water-resistant to salt water (sea water, sweat) and even chlorinated water (swimming pool) and can accordingly also be described as sweat-resistant or chlorine-water resistant.
  • a particularly advantageous acetylated stearic acid ester in the sense of the present invention is acetylated glycol stearate.
  • the combination of acetylated glycol stearate with tristearin (INCI: acetylated glycol stearate and tristearin), which is available, for example, from ISP under the trade name Unitwix, can also be used advantageously.
  • ISP acetylated glycol stearate and tristearin
  • Such products are registered under Chemical Abstracts registration numbers 91052-08-3 and 94944-95-3.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations within the meaning of the present invention advantageously contain 0.1 to 8% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight, of one or more acetylated stearic acid esters, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the preparations can preferably contain, in addition to one or more oil phases, one or more water phases and, for example, in the form of W / O, O / W, W / O / W or O / W / O emulsions , Sol- Before formulations, microemulsions, sticks, foams (so-called mousse), solid emulsions (ie emulsions which are stabilized by solids, eg Pickering emulsions), sprayable emulsions or hydrodispersions can preferably also be.
  • the preparations can advantageously also be oil-free and / or aqueous / alcoholic solutions.
  • “Two- or multi-phase” in the sense of the present invention means that two or more phases are layered separately one above the other. It is particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention if at least one of the macroscopically visible phases has a (W / O-, In this (macroscopic) observation, the emulsion is perceived as one phase, although it is of course known to the person skilled in the art that emulsions per se are formed from two or more phases homogenized with one another "is stable over the long term, so that segregation or phase separation within the emulsion does not occur over a longer period (months, years).
  • the macroscopically visible phases or layers can advantageously be emulsified for a short time - for example by shaking - to form a homogeneous emulsion which, however, is not stable over the long term, but rather separates again into two or more layers layered over a period of minutes, hours or days ,
  • at least one of the macroscopically visible phases is a microemulsion and at least one other of the macroscopically visible phases is an oil phase.
  • Sprayable emulsions especially microemulsions
  • Sprayable O / W emulsions in particular O / W microemulsions, are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the droplet diameters of the usual “simple”, that is to say non-multiple, emulsions are in the range from approx. 1 ⁇ m to approx. 50 ⁇ m.
  • Such “macroemulsions” are colored milky white and opaque without further coloring additives. Finer “macroemulsions”, whose droplet diameters are in the range from approx. 0.5 ⁇ m to approx. 1 ⁇ m, are therefore without coloring additives, bluish white colored and opaque.
  • Such "macroemulsions” usually have a high viscosity.
  • microemulsions in the context of the present invention is in the range from about 50 to about 500 nm.
  • Such microemulsions are colored bluish white to translucent and mostly of low viscosity.
  • the viscosity of many O / W type microemulsions is comparable to that of water.
  • microemulsions are that active substances can be present in a much finer disperse in the disperse phase than in the disperse phase of "macroemulsions". Another advantage is that they can be sprayed due to their low viscosity. If microemulsions are used as cosmetics, corresponding products are distinguished characterized by high cosmetic elegance.
  • O / W microemulsions which are obtainable with the aid of so-called phase inversion temperature technology and contain at least one emulsifier (emulsifier A), which is selected from the group of emulsifiers with the following properties, are particularly advantageous according to the invention: their lipophilicity depends on the temperature, in such a way that the lipophilicity increases by increasing the temperature and the lipophilicity of the emulsifier decreases by lowering the temperature.
  • Advantageous emulsifiers A are e.g. B.
  • polyethoxylated fatty acids PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-150 laurath, PEG-8 distearate and the like
  • polyethoxylated fatty alcohols cetearath-12, cetearath-20, isoceteth-20, beheneth-20, Lau - reth-9 etc.
  • alkyl polyglycosides cetearyl glycoside, stearyl glycoside, palmityl glycoside etc.
  • O / W emulsions in particular O / W microemulsions
  • the size of the oil droplets being essentially determined by the concentration of the emulsifier (s) used, such that a higher one Emulsifier concentration causes smaller droplets and lower emulsifier concentration leads to larger droplets.
  • the droplet sizes are usually between 20 and 500 nm.
  • emulsifier A for example in order to increase the water resistance of the preparations according to the present invention.
  • alkyl methicone copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols in particular cetyl dimethicone copolyol, lauryl methicone copolyol
  • W / O emulsifiers such as sorbitan stearate, glyceryl stearate, glycerol stearate, sorbitan oleate, lecithin, glyceryl isostearate 3, poly oleate, Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, acrylates / C10.
  • o-alkyl acrylate mer Crosspoly-, sorbitan isostearate, poloxamer 101, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglycerol ryl- 3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, glycol distearate, polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxy-stearate) and / or fatty acid esters of sulfuric or phosphoric acid, triethylphosphate (cetylphosphate) Trioleth-8-phosphate, stearyl phosphate, cetearyl sulfate etc.) can be used.
  • Further advantageous sprayable O / W emulsions for the purposes of the present invention are low-viscosity cosmetic or dermatological hydrodispersions which contain at least one oil phase and at least one water phase, the preparation being stabilized by at least one gel former and not necessarily having to contain emulsifiers, but one or more May contain emulsifiers.
  • Advantageous gel formers for such preparations are, for example, copolymers of CIO- 3 o-alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters.
  • the INCI name for such compounds is "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer”.
  • the Pemulen® types TR 1, TR 2 and TRZ from Goodrich (Noveon) are particularly advantageous.
  • Carbopole are also advantageous gel formers for such preparations.
  • Carbopols are polymers of acrylic acid, especially also acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers.
  • Advantageous carbopoles are, for example, types 907, 910, 934, 940, 941, 951, 954, 980, 981, 1342, 1382, - 2984 and 5984.
  • Gelling agents for such preparations are xanthan gum, cellulose derivatives and locust bean gum.
  • Possible (optional) emulsifiers which can be used are ethoxylated fatty alcohols or ethoxylated fatty acids (in particular PEG-100 stearate, ceteareth-20) and / or other nonionic surface-active substances.
  • the very low viscosity to sprayable emulsions can also be W / O or water-in-silicone oil (W / S) emulsions.
  • W / O or W / S emulsions containing at least one silicone emulsifier (W / S) with an HLB ⁇ 8 and / or at least one W / O emulsifier with an HLB value of ⁇ 7, and • contain at least one O / W emulsifier with an HLB value> 10.
  • Such preparations also contain at least 20% by weight of lipids, the lipid phase advantageously also containing silicone oils or even consisting entirely of such oils.
  • the silicone emulsifier (s) can advantageously be chosen from the group of alkyl methicon copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols (eg dimethicone copolyols, which are available from Goldschmidt AG under the trade names ABIL® B 8842, ABIL® B 8843, ABIL® B 8847 , ABIL® B 8851, ABIL® B 8852, ABIL® B 8863, ABIL® B 8873 and ABIL® B 88183 are sold, cetyl dimethicone copolyol [Goldschmidt AG / ABIL® EM 90], cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol [Goldschmidt AG / ABIL® EM 97 ], Lauryl methicone copolyol [Dow Corning Ltd./Dow Corning® 5200 Formulation Aid], octyl dimethi
  • the one or more W / O emulsifiers with an HLB value ⁇ 7 can advantageously be selected from the following group: sorbitan stearate, sorbitan oleate, lecithin, glyceryl alcoholate, lanolin, hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, pentaerythrithyl isostearate, methylglucose dioleate Mixture with hydroxystearate and beeswax, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl 4-isostearate, hexyl laurate, acrylate / C 0 .
  • the O / W emulsifier (s) with an HLB value> 10 can advantageously be selected from the following group: glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, Ceteareth-6 in a mixture with stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with PEG-40 castor oil and sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, triceteareth-4 phosphate, glyceryl stearate, sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, lecithin trilaureth-4 phosphate, laurol-4-acidate, stearyl-9-phosphate, P-stearate Stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, Ceteth-2, Ceteth-20, Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-60, Polysorbate-65, Polysorbate- 100, glyceryl stearate in
  • Aqueous-alcoholic solutions are also advantageous. They can contain from 0% by weight to 90% by weight of ethanol. Aqueous-alcoholic solutions can advantageously also contain solubilizers in the sense of the present invention, such as. B. PEG-40 or PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil.
  • the preparations according to the present invention can advantageously also be used as cosmetic or dermatological impregnation solutions, with which in particular water-insoluble substrates - such as, for. B. woven or non-woven cloths - are moistened.
  • Such impregnation solutions are preferably low-viscosity, in particular sprayable (such as, for example, PIT emulsions, hydrodispersions, W / O emulsions, oils, aqueous solutions, etc.) and preferably have a viscosity of less than 2000 mPa-s, in particular less than 1,500 mPa-s (measuring device: Haake Viscotester VT-02 at 25 ° C).
  • sprayable such as, for example, PIT emulsions, hydrodispersions, W / O emulsions, oils, aqueous solutions, etc.
  • the preparations according to the present invention can advantageously also be present as anhydrous oils or oil gels or pastes.
  • Advantageous oils are e.g. B. synthetic, semi-synthetic or natural oils such as rapeseed oil, rice oil, avocado oil, olive oil, mineral oil, cocoglycerides, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C 12 . 15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, octyldodecanol and the like.
  • Various waxes with a melting point> 25 ° C can be used as oil gel formers. Gel formers from the group of aerosils, alkylgalactomannans (for example N-Hance AG 200 and N-Hance AG 50 from Hercules) and polyethylene derivatives are also advantageous.
  • Self-foaming, foam-like, post-foaming or foamable cosmetic and dermatological preparations are also particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • “Self-foaming”, “foam-like”, “post-foaming” or “foamable” are understood to mean preparations from which foams - be it during the manufacturing process, be it in use by the consumer or otherwise - by entry one or more gases can be produced in principle.
  • the gas bubbles are (arbitrarily) distributed in one (or more) liquid phase (s), the (foamed) preparations not necessarily having to have the appearance of a foam macroscopically.
  • (Foamed) cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention (hereinafter also referred to simply as foams for the sake of simplicity) can, for. B. represent macroscopically visible dispersed systems from gases dispersed in liquids.
  • such preparations advantageously contain an emulsifier system which consists of A. at least one emulsifier A, selected from the group of fully, partially or not neutralized, branched and / or unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms,
  • At least one emulsifier B selected from the group of polyethoxylated fatty acid esters with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms and with a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 100 and
  • At least one co-emulsifier C selected from the group consisting of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty alcohols with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms.
  • the emulsifier (s) A are preferably selected from the group of fatty acids which are wholly or partly neutralized with customary alkalis (such as sodium and / or potassium hydroxide, sodium and / or potassium carbonate and mono- and / or triethanolamine) ,
  • customary alkalis such as sodium and / or potassium hydroxide, sodium and / or potassium carbonate and mono- and / or triethanolamine
  • stearic acid and stearates isostearic acid and isostearates, palmitic acid and palmitates, and myristic acid and myristates are particularly advantageous.
  • the emulsifier (s) B are preferably selected from the following group: PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate, PEG- 40-sorbitan lanolate, PEG-15 glyceryl ricinoleate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl oleate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate, PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG Glyceryl laurate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate.
  • the co-emulsifier (s) C are preferably selected from the following group: behenyl alcohol (C 22 H 45 OH), cetearyl alcohol [a mixture of cetyl alcohol (C 16 H 33 OH) and stearyl alcohol (C 18 H 37 OH)], lanolin alcohols (wool wax - alcohols, which represent the unsaponifiable alcohol fraction of the wool wax obtained after the saponification of wool wax).
  • cetyl and cetyl stearyl alcohol ⁇ are particularly preferred.
  • weight ratios of emulsifier A to emulsifier B to coemulsifier C (A: B: C) as a: b: c, where a, b and c independently of one another are rational numbers from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 can represent up to 3.
  • a weight ratio of approximately 1: 1: 1 is particularly preferred.
  • the total amount of emulsifiers A and B and of coemulsifier C is advantageous for the total amount of emulsifiers A and B and of coemulsifier C to be in the range from 2 to 20% by weight, advantageously from 5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 7 to 13% by weight. %, each based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations which are stabilized only by finely divided solid particles are also particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention.
  • Such “emulsifier-free” emulsions are also referred to as Pickering emulsions.
  • the solid material In Pickering emulsions, the solid material accumulates at the oil / water phase boundary in the form of a layer, which prevents the dispersed phases from merging.
  • the surface properties of the solid particles which should show both hydrophilic and lipophilic properties, are of particular importance.
  • the stabilizing solid particles can also advantageously be surface-water-treated (“coated”), an amphiphilic character of these solid particles being formed or to be retained.
  • the surface treatment can consist in the solid particles being coated with a thin hydrophobic material by methods known per se or hydrophilic layer.
  • the average particle diameter of the microfine solid particles used as a stabilizer is preferably chosen to be less than 100 ⁇ m, particularly advantageously less than 50 ⁇ m. It is essentially irrelevant in which form (platelets, rods, beads, etc.) or modification the solid particles used are present.
  • the microfine solid particles are preferably selected from the group of the amphiphilic metal oxide pigments. The following are particularly advantageous:
  • Titanium dioxides (coated and uncoated): e.g. B. Eusolex T-2000 from Merck, titanium dioxide MT-100 Z from Tayca Corporation. B. Z-Cote and Z-Cote HP1 from BASF AG, MZ-300, MZ-500 and MZ-505M from Tayca Corporation
  • microfine solid particles are selected from the following group: boron nitrides, starch derivatives (tapioca starch, sodium com starch octynyl succinate etc.), talc, latex particles.
  • the solid-stabilized emulsions contain significantly less than 0.5% by weight of one or more emulsifiers or are even completely emulsifier-free.
  • Common base materials for stick-like preparations are, for example, liquid oils (such as paraffin oils, castor oil, isopropyl myristate, C 12 - ⁇ 5 alkyl benzoate), semi-solid components (e.g. petroleum jelly, lanolin), solid components (e.g. beeswax, Ceresin and microcrystalline waxes or ozokerite) and / or high-melting waxes (eg carnauba wax, candelilla wax).
  • liquid oils such as paraffin oils, castor oil, isopropyl myristate, C 12 - ⁇ 5 alkyl benzoate
  • semi-solid components e.g. petroleum jelly, lanolin
  • solid components e.g. beeswax, Ceresin and microcrystalline waxes or ozokerite
  • high-melting waxes eg carnauba wax, candelilla wax.
  • Water-containing stick-like preparations are also known per se, although these can also be in the form
  • the cosmetic or dermatological light protection formulations according to the invention can be composed as usual and can be used for cosmetic or dermatological light protection, also for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.
  • cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions can be used for the purposes of the present invention, for example as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. B. preservatives, preservation aids, complexing agents, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent or increase foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin, fats, oils, Waxes or other common components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • cosmetic auxiliaries e.g. B. preservatives, preservation aids, complexing agents, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent or increase foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin, fats, oils, Waxes or other common components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols
  • Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available, for example, from Lonza under the trade name Glydant TM), iodopropylbutylcarbamate (for example those under the trade names Glycacil -L, Glycacil-S available from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, Ethanol, benzoic acid and the like.
  • the preservation system usually also advantageously comprises preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc.
  • Advantageous complexing agents for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, EDTA, [S, S] -ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS), which is available, for example, from Octel under the trade name Octaquest, pentasodium-ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate, which, for. B. is available under the trade name Dequest 2046 from Monsanto and / or iminodisuccinic acid, which, inter alia, from Fa.
  • Bayer AG is available under the trade names Iminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (approx. 30% solution) and Baypure CX 100.
  • compositions are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients.
  • the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional, antioxidants.
  • water-soluble antioxidants such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and its derivatives.
  • Preferred antioxidants are also vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to add their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation choose.
  • active ingredients are antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.
  • active ingredients in the sense of the present invention are natural active ingredients and / or their derivatives, such as. B. alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, camitin, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, creatine, taurine and / or ß-alanine and 8-hexadecene-1,16- dicarboxylic acid (Dioic acid, CAS number 20701-68-2; provisional INCI name Octadecendioic acid).
  • Recipes according to the invention which, for. B. known anti-wrinkle agents such as flavone glycosides (especially ⁇ -glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as z. B. occur with skin aging (such as dryness, roughness and formation of dry lines, itching, reduced re-greasing (e.g. after washing), visible vasodilation (telangiectasias, cuperosis), flaccidity and formation of wrinkles and fine lines, local hyper- , Hypo and incorrect pigmentation (eg age spots), increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (eg cracking) and the like). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
  • skin aging such as dryness, roughness and formation of dry lines, itching, reduced re-greasing (e.g. after washing), visible vasodilation (telangiectasia
  • the water phase of the preparations according to the present invention can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those having a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols having a low C number, and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol - Col, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or mono ethyl ether and analog products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes and in particular one or more thickeners, which or which are advantageously chosen can be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g.
  • customary cosmetic auxiliaries such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those having a low C number, preferably
  • B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles [from Bf. Goodrich], for example carbo ⁇ poles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984 , ETD 2020, ETD 2050, Ultrez 10, each individually or in combination.
  • the preparations according to the present invention can furthermore advantageously also contain self-tanning substances, such as, for example, dihydroxyacteon and / or melanin derivatives in concentrations of 1% by weight to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the preparations according to the present invention can furthermore advantageously also contain repellents for protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like.
  • repellents for protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like.
  • B N, N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide (trade name: Metadolphene, "DEET"), dimethyl phthalate (trade name: Palatinol M, DMP) and in particular 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) - ethyl propionate (available under the trade name Insekt Repellent® 3535 from Merck)
  • the repellents can be used both individually and in combination.
  • moisturizers which give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the moisture release of the home layer (also called trans-epidermal water
  • Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerin, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea.
  • polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides.
  • Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA S.A. is available.
  • Moisturizers can also advantageously be used as anti-wrinkle active ingredients for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as those described for. B. occur in skin aging, are used.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and for example, create or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin.
  • Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring effects (such as e.g. B. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile ® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).
  • the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24 , in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can for example be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. B.
  • cocoglyceride olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.
  • z. B natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes, and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).
  • further advantageous polar oil components can also be selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl co-coat, octyl isostearate, octyl dodeceyl myristate, octyl dodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-stonolate, n-stonolate, n-stonyl-n-stonate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate
  • the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates.
  • oil component (s) from the group isoeikosan, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C 12th - 3- alkyl lactate, di-C 12 . 13- alkyl tartrate, triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tri-caprylin, dimethyl isosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention contains C 12 . 15 alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this.
  • Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof ⁇ Hallstar AB) and / or diethyl hexyl naphthalate ⁇ Hallbrite TQ or Corapan TQ from H&R).
  • B. butyl octyl salicylate for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from CP Hall
  • diethyl hexyl naphthalate ⁇ Hallbrite TQ or Corapan TQ from H&R
  • the oil phase may also advantageously also non-polar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and straight branch ⁇ th hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and Isohexadecane.
  • non-polar oils for example those which are selected from the group of branched and straight branch ⁇ th hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and Isohexadecane.
  • polyolefins polydecenes are the preferred substances.
  • the oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
  • Silicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network-like manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups) are saturated).
  • the silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes.
  • the methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are characterized by the following structural formula
  • Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.
  • Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are available, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10,000 from Th. Goldschmidt.
  • phenylmethylpolysiloxanes INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone
  • cyclic silicones octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane
  • amino-modified silicones INCI: amodimethicone and silicone.
  • polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicone and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are available as different Abil-Wax types from Th. Goldschmidt.
  • other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • the preparations according to the present invention can furthermore advantageously contain one or more substances from the following group of siloxane elastomers, for example in order to increase the water resistance and / or the sun protection factor 1 of the products: (a) Siloxane elastomers which contain the units R 2 SiO and RSi0 1
  • 24 -alkyl such as methyl, ethyl, propyl
  • aryl such as phenyl or tolyl
  • alkenyl such as vinyl
  • 5 in the range from 1: 1 to 30: 1 is selected;
  • Siloxane elastomers which are insoluble and swellable in silicone oil and which can be obtained by the addition reaction of an organopolysiloxane (1) which contains silicon-bonded hydrogen with an organopolysiloxane (2) which contains unsaturated aliphatic groups, the quantitative parts used be chosen so that the amount of hydrogen of the organopolysiloxane (1) or the unsaturated aliphatic groups of the organopolysiloxane (2) is in the range from 1 to 20 mol% if the organopolysiloxane is not cyclic and in the range from 1 to 50 mol% % is when the organopolysiloxane is cyclic.
  • the siloxane elastomer or elastomers are advantageously in the form of spherical powders or in the form of gels.
  • siloxane elastomers in the form of spherical powder according to the invention are those with the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, for example that available from DOW CORNING under the trade names DOW CORNING 9506 Powder.
  • siloxane elastomer is used in combination with oils from hydrocarbons of animal and / or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, synthetic esters, synthetic ethers or mixtures thereof.
  • siloxane elastomer is used in combination with unbranched silicone oils which are liquid or pasty at room temperature or cyclic silicone oils or mixtures thereof.
  • Organopolysiloxane elastomers with the INCI name Dimethicone / Polysilicone-11 are particularly advantageous especially the Gransil types GCM, GCM-5, DMG-6, CSE Gel, PM-Gel, LTX, ININ Gel, AM-18 Gel and / or DMCM-5 available from Grant Industries Inc.
  • the siloxane elastomer is used in the form of a gel composed of siloxane elastomer and a lipid phase, the content of the siloxane elastomer in the gel being 1 to 80% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 60% by weight , each based on the total weight of the gel.
  • the total amount of the siloxane elastomers (active content) is in the range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, advantageously from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the Wording to choose.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain dyes and / or color pigments, especially if they are in the form of decorative cosmetics.
  • the dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food.
  • Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (eg Fe 2 0 3 , Fe 3 0 4 , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide.
  • Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.
  • the formulations according to the invention are in the form of products which are used on the face, it is advantageous to choose one or more substances from the following group as the dye: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'- nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, ceres red, 2- (sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1, 2'-azonaphthalene-1'- sulfonic acid, calcium and barium salts of 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid , Aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfo acid
  • oil-soluble natural dyes such as. B. paprika extracts, ß-carotene or cochineal.
  • Formulations containing pearlescent pigments are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the types of pearlescent pigments listed below are particularly preferred:
  • Natural pearlescent pigments such as. B.
  • Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as B. Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCI)
  • Layer-substrate pigments e.g. B. mica / metal oxide
  • Pearlescent pigments are based, for example, on powdered pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. Particularly advantageous is e.g. B. the gloss pigment listed under CIN 77163.
  • B the pearlescent pigments available from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona.
  • pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se.
  • other substrates besides mica can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. B. silica and the like.
  • metal oxides such as. B. silica and the like.
  • Ronaspheren Ti0 2 and Fe 2 0 3 coated Si0 2 particles
  • Iron pearlescent pigments which are produced without the use of mica are particularly preferred. Such pigments are e.g. B. available under the trade name Sicopearl copper 1000 from BASF.
  • effect pigments which are available from Flora Tech under the trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in various colors (yello, red, green, blue).
  • the glitter particles are present in mixtures with various auxiliaries and dyes (such as, for example, the dyes with the Color Index (Cl) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).
  • the dyes and pigments can be present both individually and in a mixture and can be mutually coated, different color effects generally being produced by different coating thicknesses.
  • the total amount of dyes and coloring pigments is advantageous from the range from Z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 0 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • cosmetic and dermatological preparations the main purpose of which is not protection against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain other UV protection substances.
  • So z. B. usually incorporated into day creams or makeup products UV-A or UV-B filter substances.
  • UV protection substances like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.
  • the preparations in the sense of the present invention preferably contain at least one further UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance.
  • the formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.
  • the preparations according to the present invention can furthermore advantageously also be in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological emulsions which contain a water phase and at least one UV filter substance which is liquid at room temperature as a further phase and which, in particular, can advantageously also be free of further oil components.
  • Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (Ti0 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe 2 0 3 ), zirconium (Zr0 2 ), silicon ( SiO 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al 2 0 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 0 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaS0 4 ).
  • the pigments can also advantageously be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersing aids and / or solubilizing agents can advantageously be added to these predispersions.
  • the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), with a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character, for example, being formed or retained.
  • This surface treatment can consist in the pigments being coated with a thin film using methods known per se hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer
  • the various surface coatings can also contain water in the sense of the present invention.
  • Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al 2 0 3 ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) 3 , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaP0 3 ) 6 , sodium metaphosphate (NaP0 3 ) n , silicon dioxide (Si0 2 ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), or iron oxide (Fe 2 0 3 ).
  • Al 2 0 3 aluminum oxide
  • Al (OH) 3 aluminum hydroxide Al
  • aluminum oxide hydrate also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2
  • sodium hexametaphosphate (NaP0 3 ) 6 sodium metaphosphate (NaP0 3 ) n
  • silicon dioxide (Si0 2 ) also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9
  • iron oxide Fe 2 0
  • Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel) or alginic acid.
  • These organic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.
  • Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:
  • Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:
  • Latex particles which are advantageous according to the invention are those described in the following documents: US Pat. No. 5,663,213 and EP 0 761 201. Particularly advantageous latex particles are those which are formed from water and styrene / acrylate copolymers and, for. B. are available under the trade name "Alliance SunSphere” from Rohm & Haas.
  • UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS-Nr. 70356-09-1), marketed by Givaudan under the trade name Parsol ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • Advantageous further UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:
  • Mexoryl SX Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) - methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.
  • UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are also benzoxazole derivatives, which are distinguished by the following structural formula,
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are independently selected from the group of branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. It is particularly advantageous according to the invention to choose the radicals R 1 and R 2 the same, in particular from the group of the branched alkyl radicals having 3 to 5 carbon atoms. It is furthermore particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention if R 3 is an unbranched or branched alkyl radical having 8 carbon atoms, in particular the 2-ethylhexyl radical.
  • Benzoxazole derivative which is particularly preferred according to the invention is 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1, 3,5-triazine with CAS No. 288254-16-0, which is characterized by the structural formula
  • the benzoxazole derivative or derivatives are advantageously present in dissolved form in the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. However, it may also be advantageous if the benzoxazole derivative (s) are present in pigmentary, ie undissolved form - for example in particle sizes from 10 nm to 300 nm.
  • UV filter substances in the context of the present invention are also so-called hydroxybenzophenones.
  • Hydroxybenzophenones are characterized by the following structural formula:
  • R 1 and R 2 independently of one another hydrogen, CC 20 alkyl, C 3 -C 10 cycloalkyl or
  • R 3 represents a CC 20 alkyl radical.
  • a particularly advantageous hydroxybenzophenone for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which is distinguished by the following structure:
  • UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, ie filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
  • Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as. B.
  • An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is also the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol ) (INCI: Methylene Bis-Benztriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol), which e.g. under the trade name Tinosorb® M is available from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
  • Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1, 3,3,3-tetramethyl-1- [(trimethylsilyI) oxy] disiloxa- nyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.
  • the other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Advantageous oil-soluble filter substances are e.g. B .:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) -benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester; 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine;
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;
  • Esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester; • Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and UV filters bound to polymers.
  • Advantageous water-soluble filter substances are e.g. B .:
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and their
  • a further light protection filter substance according to the invention to be used advantageously is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate, sold under the name Uvinul ® N 539 T is available (octocrylene) from BASF.
  • Particularly advantageous preparations within the meaning of the present invention which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain, in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention, further UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [ for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane] and / or the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine and / or .
  • Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) - 3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt each individually or in any combination with one another.
  • UV filters which can be used in the present 'invention is not intended to be limiting, of course.
  • the preparations according to the present invention advantageously contain the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range in a total amount of, for. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations, to provide cosmetic preparations that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation.
  • compositions within the meaning of the present invention can also advantageously contain other substances which increase the water resistance of the products.
  • x, y and z represent integers from the range from 2 to 130, in particular from 15 to 100 and x and z are the same, but are chosen independently of y.
  • wax components such as C 18 . 36 fatty acid triglycerides (e.g. Syncrowax HGLC from Crode GmbH with INCI: C18-36 acid triglycerides) and those under the trade names "Performa V 1608" (INCI: C30-38 Ole- fin / isopropyl maleate / MA copolymer) and "Perfroma V 825" (synthetic wax) substances available from New Phase Technologies.
  • C 18 . 36 fatty acid triglycerides e.g. Syncrowax HGLC from Crode GmbH with INCI: C18-36 acid triglycerides
  • Performa V 1608 INCI: C30-38 Ole- fin / isopropyl maleate / MA copolymer
  • Perfroma V 825" synthetic wax
  • UVASorb® K2A 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazoI-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1, 3,5-triazine [CAS No. 288254-16-0]

Abstract

L'invention concerne l'utilisation de copolymères d'acrylate et de méthacrylate d'alkyle oléosolubles et/ou oléodispersibles pour améliorer l'hydrorésistance de formulations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques contenant au moins une substance courante filtrant les UV.
PCT/EP2003/003099 2002-03-28 2003-03-25 Formulations de protection solaire cosmetiques et dermatologiques hydroresistantes contenant une quantite d'esters acetyles de l'acide stearique WO2003082237A2 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AU2003229572A AU2003229572A1 (en) 2002-03-28 2003-03-25 Water proof cosmetic and dermatological sun protecting formulations containing acetylated stearic acid esters
EP03722356A EP1492497A2 (fr) 2002-03-28 2003-03-25 Formulations de protection solaire cosmetiques et dermatologiques hydroresistantes contenant une quantite d'esters acetyles de l'acide stearique

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE10214052.9 2002-03-28
DE10214052A DE10214052A1 (de) 2002-03-28 2002-03-28 Wasserfeste kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen mit einem Gehalt an acetylierten Stearinsäureestern

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2003082237A2 true WO2003082237A2 (fr) 2003-10-09
WO2003082237A3 WO2003082237A3 (fr) 2004-02-05

Family

ID=27816050

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2003/003099 WO2003082237A2 (fr) 2002-03-28 2003-03-25 Formulations de protection solaire cosmetiques et dermatologiques hydroresistantes contenant une quantite d'esters acetyles de l'acide stearique

Country Status (4)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1492497A2 (fr)
AU (1) AU2003229572A1 (fr)
DE (1) DE10214052A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2003082237A2 (fr)

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102004002612A1 (de) * 2004-01-15 2005-08-04 Beiersdorf Ag Visualisierung von Sonnenschutzmitteln auf der Haut
WO2005094769A1 (fr) * 2004-02-17 2005-10-13 Basf Aktiengesellschaft Preparations cosmetiques ou dermatologiques contenant un melange de filtre uva, de filtre uvb et d'un oxyde metallique
US7022316B2 (en) 2003-02-25 2006-04-04 L'oreal Non-pilling UV-photoprotecting sunscreen compositions
FR2983716A1 (fr) * 2011-12-12 2013-06-14 Oreal Emulsion huile-dans-eau solaire comprenant un polymere hydrophobe d'au moins un monomere vinylique, un melange de tensio-actifs emulsionnants huile/eau non-ioniques et anionique

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2866562B1 (fr) * 2004-02-23 2006-05-12 Oreal Utilisation d'un tetrapolymere acrylique comme agent tenseur de la peau.
DE102007028497A1 (de) * 2007-06-18 2008-12-24 Beiersdorf Ag Styrol/Acrylat-Copolymere in kosmetischen Sonnenschutzmitteln

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1999053894A1 (fr) * 1998-04-18 1999-10-28 Beiersdorf Ag Preparations cosmetiques et dermatologiques ayant une teneur en derives de triazine substitues de façon asymetrique et une action de protection contre la lumiere, ces preparations etant resistantes a l'eau et se presentant sous forme d'emulsions huile/eau
DE19856947A1 (de) * 1998-12-10 2000-06-15 Wella Ag Sonnenschutzmittel
EP1093798A1 (fr) * 1999-10-21 2001-04-25 L'oreal Emulsions sans émulsionnant contenant au moins un filtre uv organique insoluble
EP1291010A2 (fr) * 2001-09-07 2003-03-12 Basf Aktiengesellschaft Compositions cosmétiques et dermatologiques sous forme d'émulsion huile-dans-eau contenant une hydroxybenzophénone substituée

Family Cites Families (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4894222A (en) * 1988-04-04 1990-01-16 Neutrogena Corporation Waterproof sunscreen
WO2000026285A1 (fr) * 1998-10-29 2000-05-11 Penreco Compositions de gel
FR2815256A1 (fr) * 2001-01-23 2002-04-19 Oreal Composition, notamment cosmetique, comprenant au moins un derive de sapogenine et au moins un solubilisant du derive de sapogenine

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1999053894A1 (fr) * 1998-04-18 1999-10-28 Beiersdorf Ag Preparations cosmetiques et dermatologiques ayant une teneur en derives de triazine substitues de façon asymetrique et une action de protection contre la lumiere, ces preparations etant resistantes a l'eau et se presentant sous forme d'emulsions huile/eau
DE19856947A1 (de) * 1998-12-10 2000-06-15 Wella Ag Sonnenschutzmittel
EP1093798A1 (fr) * 1999-10-21 2001-04-25 L'oreal Emulsions sans émulsionnant contenant au moins un filtre uv organique insoluble
EP1291010A2 (fr) * 2001-09-07 2003-03-12 Basf Aktiengesellschaft Compositions cosmétiques et dermatologiques sous forme d'émulsion huile-dans-eau contenant une hydroxybenzophénone substituée

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US7022316B2 (en) 2003-02-25 2006-04-04 L'oreal Non-pilling UV-photoprotecting sunscreen compositions
DE102004002612A1 (de) * 2004-01-15 2005-08-04 Beiersdorf Ag Visualisierung von Sonnenschutzmitteln auf der Haut
WO2005094769A1 (fr) * 2004-02-17 2005-10-13 Basf Aktiengesellschaft Preparations cosmetiques ou dermatologiques contenant un melange de filtre uva, de filtre uvb et d'un oxyde metallique
FR2983716A1 (fr) * 2011-12-12 2013-06-14 Oreal Emulsion huile-dans-eau solaire comprenant un polymere hydrophobe d'au moins un monomere vinylique, un melange de tensio-actifs emulsionnants huile/eau non-ioniques et anionique

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP1492497A2 (fr) 2005-01-05
WO2003082237A3 (fr) 2004-02-05
DE10214052A1 (de) 2003-10-09
AU2003229572A1 (en) 2003-10-13

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
WO2003053389A1 (fr) Formulations cosmetiques et dermatologiques a effet de protection solaire, contenant des derives de bis-resorcinyltriazine et des derives de benzoxazole
WO2003053395A1 (fr) Formulations cosmetiques et dermatologiques a effet de protection solaire, contenant des substances filtrant les u.v., solubles dans l'eau et des derives de benzoxazole
EP1380288B1 (fr) Compositions cosmétiques et dermatologiques de protection solaire contenant des Polymeres d'acide acrylamidométhylpropane sulfonique (AMPS) hydrophobes
EP1458341A1 (fr) Formulations cosmetiques et dermatologiques de protection solaire contenant des benzotriazoles et des derives de benzoxazole
EP1352639A1 (fr) Composition cosmétique comprenant des benzophénones hydroxylées et un ou plusieurs dérivés d'amidon prégelatinisées et réticulées
EP1458339A1 (fr) Formulations cosmetiques et dermatologiques de protection contre la lumiere contenant des derives benzoxazol
EP1458342A1 (fr) Formulations de protection solaire cosmetiques et dermatologiques contenant des hydroxylbenzophenones et des derives de benzoxazol
EP1492489B1 (fr) Formulations cosmetiques et dermatologiques de protection solaire resistantes a l'eau contenant des polymeres sequences de polyoxyethylene-polydodecylglycol
DE10214054A1 (de) Wasserfeste kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen mit einem Gehalt an Alpha Olefin/Maleinsäureanhydrid-Copolymeren
WO2003082237A2 (fr) Formulations de protection solaire cosmetiques et dermatologiques hydroresistantes contenant une quantite d'esters acetyles de l'acide stearique
DE10214053A1 (de) Wasserfeste kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen mit einem Gehalt an Acrylat-Alkylmethacrylat-Copolymeren
DE10214059A1 (de) Wasserfeste kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen mit einem Gehalt an Polyoxyethylen-Polyoxypropylen-Blockpolymeren
DE102004003001B4 (de) Kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen
DE102004002612A1 (de) Visualisierung von Sonnenschutzmitteln auf der Haut
DE102004003000A1 (de) Kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen
DE102004002602A1 (de) Visualisierung von Sonnenschutzmitteln auf der Haut
DE102004002999A1 (de) Kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen
DE20314969U1 (de) Lichtschutzzubereitung mit einem Gehalt an reflektierenden Pigmenten (Mikrospiegeln)
DE10249367A1 (de) Kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen mit einem Gehalt an Hydroxybenzophenonen und Benzoxazol-Derivaten
DE102004002601A1 (de) Visualisierung von Sonnenschutzmitteln auf der Haut
WO2005067882A1 (fr) Visualisation d'agents de protection solaire sur la peau
DE102004002609A1 (de) Visualisierung von Sonnenschutzmitteln auf der Haut
DE102004002606A1 (de) Visualisierung von Sonnenschutzmitteln auf der Haut
WO2005067880A1 (fr) Visualisation de produits antisolaires sur la peau
DE102004002608A1 (de) Visualisierung von Sonnenschutzmitteln auf der Haut

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
AK Designated states

Kind code of ref document: A2

Designated state(s): AU

AL Designated countries for regional patents

Kind code of ref document: A2

Designated state(s): AT BE BG CH CY CZ DE DK EE ES FI FR GB GR HU IE IT LU MC NL PT RO SE SI SK TR

121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application
WWE Wipo information: entry into national phase

Ref document number: 2003722356

Country of ref document: EP

WWE Wipo information: entry into national phase

Ref document number: 2003229572

Country of ref document: AU

WWP Wipo information: published in national office

Ref document number: 2003722356

Country of ref document: EP