WO2003072864A1 - Knit fabric and process for producing the same - Google Patents

Knit fabric and process for producing the same Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2003072864A1
WO2003072864A1 PCT/JP2003/002179 JP0302179W WO03072864A1 WO 2003072864 A1 WO2003072864 A1 WO 2003072864A1 JP 0302179 W JP0302179 W JP 0302179W WO 03072864 A1 WO03072864 A1 WO 03072864A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
yarn
knitting
knitted fabric
stitch
pattern
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/JP2003/002179
Other languages
French (fr)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
Masako Oka
Original Assignee
Masako Oka
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Masako Oka filed Critical Masako Oka
Priority to AU2003211754A priority Critical patent/AU2003211754A1/en
Publication of WO2003072864A1 publication Critical patent/WO2003072864A1/en

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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads

Definitions

  • Knitted fabric and manufacturing method thereof are Knitted fabric and manufacturing method thereof
  • the present invention relates to a knitted fabric having a unique design utilizing shrinkage of a knitting yarn and a method for producing the knitted fabric.
  • knitted garments such as sweaters and cardigans by flat knitting machines are knitted for each part such as the front body, back body, and sleeves, and then these and the parts attached to each part are sewn with a linking machine or sewing machine. It is manufactured by In the production of these knitted garments, each part is knitted one by one by reciprocating motion of a flat type flat knitting machine. Stable yarns that do not cause abnormal tension have been applied.
  • seamless sewing shorts with small circular knitting machines have been disclosed in US Pat. No. 4,048,189 and Japanese Patent No. 11990789, and in response to the spread of computerization.
  • a non-woven hole garment machine is disclosed in Japanese Unexamined Patent Application Publication No.
  • a first knitted fabric of the present invention is a knitted fabric including a knitting yarn having a polylactic acid fiber, the knitted fabric having a deformation of a stitch caused by shrinkage of the knitting yarn.
  • the second knitted fabric of the present invention has fibers having a thickness unevenness of ⁇ 3 or more measured by a U-star measuring instrument, and the boiling water shrinkage is in a range of 5 to 15%,
  • a knitted material including a knitting yarn having a twist coefficient (K) of 2500 to 1300, and having a deformation of a stitch due to shrinkage of the knitting yarn. Since such a knitted fabric has a knitting deformation due to shrinkage of a knitting yarn containing polylactic acid fibers or a mesh yarn having the above-mentioned special characteristics, irregularities such as "wrinkles", “irregularities" and "skew” are caused.
  • a motif or an unbalanced motif can be easily expressed, and there are no knitting scratches or knitting defects, and there is no problem in the feeling of wearing when made into clothing.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention may use a general knitting yarn in addition to the special knitting yarn.
  • FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing a stitch structure diagram of one embodiment of the present invention
  • FIG. 2 is a schematic plan view showing an example of a relationship between a skew knitted fabric and a twisted yarn in the present invention
  • FIG. 3 is a schematic organization diagram of another embodiment of the present invention
  • FIG. 4 is a schematic organization diagram of still another embodiment of the present invention.
  • the U% is preferably ⁇ 3% or more, more preferably ⁇ 10% or more, and the upper limit is 13%.
  • the boiling water shrinkage is preferably 5 to 15%, more preferably 7 to 12%. Boiling water shrinkage is defined below.
  • the twist coefficient (K) is preferably from 2,500 to 1,300, more preferably from 3,000 to 1,200,000.
  • JISL—1 0 1 3 7.15 According to the B method (filament shrinkage). Apply an initial load to the sample, measure 500 mm correctly, strike at 2 points, remove the initial load, immerse the sample in hot water of boiling water (98 to 100 cc) for 30 minutes, then remove it Drain lightly with blotter or cloth, air-dry and apply the initial load again, measure the length between the two points, and calculate the boiling water shrinkage (%) by the following formula. The number of samples shall be 5 times.
  • Boiler water shrinkage (%) [(500-L) / 500] X100
  • the knitting yarn having the predetermined physical properties contains a polylactic acid fiber.
  • the content of the polylactic acid fiber is preferably 51% by weight or more, more preferably 65% by weight or more, or 100% by weight (polylactic acid fiber alone).
  • the deformed stitch is a flat stitch obliquely inclined.
  • the skewed pattern, the anti-swing pattern or the convex side pattern is formed by forming at least one of the coloration pattern of the yarn-dyed yarn on the surface or the back.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably clothing.
  • clothing There are no particular restrictions on clothing, and for example, there are tops such as sweaters and shirts to bottoms such as dresses, skirts and pants.
  • the clothing is not limited to the outer garment, but may be a middle garment or an inner garment. Further, the clothing is not limited to human clothing, but may be animal clothing or doll clothing.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention is not limited to clothes, and may be various types of covers such as furniture covers, telephone covers, vases, desk lamp covers, and tea covers.
  • a first method for producing a knitted fabric of the present invention comprises a knitting yarn containing a polylactic acid fiber.
  • a knitted fabric is manufactured by knitting a knitted fabric, which includes a step of performing an overheat treatment at a temperature at which the knitting yarn shrinks, thereby causing a deformation of a stitch.
  • the second method for producing a knitted fabric of the present invention includes a fiber having a thickness unevenness of ⁇ 3 or more in U% measured by a wool measuring device, and a boiling water shrinkage of 5 to 15%.
  • the knitting yarn containing the polylactic acid fiber or the knitting yarn having the special characteristics shrinks, and as a result, the stitch is deformed.
  • the knitted fabric obtained by the production method of the present invention "wrinkles”, “irregularities”, “skews” and the like are easily developed by the deformed stitches, and the shape is maintained for a long time.
  • the knitting yarn having the predetermined physical properties contains a polylactic acid fiber.
  • the content of the polylactic acid fiber is preferably 51% by weight or more, more preferably 65% by weight or more, and may be 100% by weight.
  • the heat treatment may be performed on the knitting yarn before knitting, may be performed after knitting, or may be performed before and after the knitting. .
  • the entire knitted material may be subjected to a heat treatment, or may be a combination of an ironing treatment and a press treatment.
  • heat treatment is performed on the knitting yarn before knitting, the heat treatment is performed in the knitting yarn pre-dyeing process. May be a heat treatment. In this case, the dyed yarn becomes a heat-treated knitted yarn before knitting.
  • the conditions for the heat treatment before knitting are, for example, 60 to 115 ° C, preferably 80 to 100 ° C, and more preferably 85 to 96.
  • the conditions for the heat treatment after knitting are, for example, 95 to 118 ° C, preferably 98 to: L10 ° C, more preferably 98 to; is there.
  • the heat treatment is performed on the clothes, it is preferable that the heat treatment is performed in a substantially unconstrained state, since natural wrinkles and irregularities can be formed.
  • the method of knitting the knitted fabric is a flat knitting in which the color pattern of the yarn-dyed yarn constitutes at least one of the front and back stitches.
  • hole garment is formed by a flat-type flat knitting machine requiring one line before and after using a yarn-dyed yarn or a circular knitting machine using a small double-ended needle. It is preferable to manufacture the above-mentioned knitted fabric by simultaneously or separately forming other members or accessory members and sewing these members to a whole garment.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention will be further described by way of examples.
  • the yarn used in the present invention for example, in the case where the stitch is a deformed flat stitch, a yarn made of a strong twisted yarn or a pre-twisted yarn of a synthetic fiber generally used such as polyester and nylon (the above-mentioned predetermined yarn)
  • a yarn made of polylactic acid fiber it is preferable to use a yarn made of polylactic acid fiber.
  • the deformation of the stitch obtained by using such a yarn made of polylactic acid fiber is caused by an excessive number of strong twists. Unnecessary, just twisting a normal twist number or a slightly stronger twist number, the fiber is flexible and has a low-temperature setting property, so that a deformed stitch can be easily obtained.
  • knitted products obtained using polylactic acid fibers are degraded by microorganisms in the soil and water even if they are discarded after use, and are thus advantageous in the global environment.
  • a yarn made of polylactic acid fibers is heated and melted to a melting point or higher, and then a plurality of fine fibers are formed. It can be obtained by winding a yarn obtained by discharging from a spinneret having the above-described discharge hole and cooling it at a predetermined speed. The wound yarn is stretched as necessary to make up a fiber whose thickness unevenness (U%) measured with a Wooster measuring instrument is ⁇ 3% or more.
  • a yarn made of polylactic acid fiber having a boiling water shrinkage of 5 to 15% can be obtained.
  • the thickness unevenness (U%) of the yarn is preferably ⁇ 3% or more, and more preferably ⁇ 10% or more.
  • the upper limit of the thickness unevenness (U%) of the yarn is as described above.
  • the boiling water shrinkage is preferably 5 to 15%, more preferably 7 to 12%, as described above.
  • the yarn may be a yarn made of long fiber filaments made of polylactic acid fiber, a spun yarn made of short fibers, or a long yarn made of long fiber filaments made of polylactic acid fiber and synthetic fibers or natural fibers. It may be a twisted yarn with a fiber filament, a mixed fiber yarn, or a mixed yarn as a short fiber spinning.
  • a knitted garment made of only polylactic acid fiber may be any yarn of any of long fiber filament yarn and short fiber spun yarn, It is preferable to set the degree to a low degree because a refreshing feeling is obtained and a natural and irregular pattern of irregularities appearing in the stitch is obtained.
  • the characteristics of natural fibers or synthetic fibers can be exhibited, and a unique knitted garment can be obtained in accordance with the application with the mixing ratio and twist coefficient of polylactic acid fibers.
  • T in the equation represents the number of twists (times Zm).
  • the twist number (K) is less than 250, the sufficient knitting of the obtained stitch may be difficult to develop.
  • the twisting coefficient (K) exceeds 1300, excessive twisting occurs, the texture is hard, and there is a possibility that a knitting problem may occur during the knitting of the passing trouble during knitting.
  • the twisted yarn is pre-dyed before knitting.
  • the twisted yarn is rewound into a soft-wound cheese or a total package according to the form of the yarn dyeing machine, for example, a yarn dyeing machine such as a stuffing type package dyeing machine or a rotary paddle dyeing machine. Dye on the machine.
  • the twisted yarn obtained as described above has a boiling water shrinkage of 5 to 15%, which is high shrinkage as compared with a normal yarn, so soft cheese or the like is preferable, but a pre-set yarn or a spring die tube is used. More preferably, total dyeing or muff dyeing is more preferable.
  • the dyeing conditions are appropriately determined depending on the type of the dyeing machine and the dye. In this dyeing, an auxiliary may be used. After dyeing, it is finished with a smoothing agent, softening agent, etc. necessary for knitting, dewatered, dried, and wound up in a cone or cheese for finishing on a knitting machine.
  • the knitting yarn (yarn-dyed yarn) is set on a flat type flat knitting machine having a single row of needles at the front and rear, and the carriage is reciprocated so as to circulate from the front bed to the rear bed.
  • a hole garment with a continuous body and back body is formed, and the sleeves arranged on both sides are simultaneously knitted.
  • the knitting pattern should be such that the knitted product should be completed consistently with the attachment from the hem to the body cloth and the attachment around the final collar.All should be automatically switched by computer software, and the needle selection mechanism etc. should be linked to complete the product. Is also possible.
  • the knitted garment of the hole garment it is preferable that the stitches constituting the garment are formed of deformed flat stitches. Normally, in the horizontal knitting, the shape that is considered to be a beautiful stitch is a golden card, and the left and right loops of the constituent stitches have an equal balance.
  • the deformed flat stitch of the present invention has an unbalanced left and right loop leg only in the shape of the stitch without accompanying the extreme twisting torque and twisting of the strong twisted piece twisted yarn and the pre-twisted yarn described above. It is very different in that it expresses its morphology and is soft. As an element due to this property, when polylactic acid fiber is used, This is presumed to be due to variations in the distribution of the degree of polymerization of the polymer, resulting in unevenness in thickness and shrinkage of boiling water in the longitudinal direction. In the knitting yarn of the second knitted fabric of the present invention, it is presumed that having the predetermined physical properties is a cause of the special deformed stitch.
  • the formation of the whole garment is performed, for example, by drawing a design to be designed in advance using a computer graphic, by integrally configuring the body and the sleeve, and by attaching a necessary accessory part before and after that and a color scheme according to the design pattern. It is preferable to make a pattern by drawing, and to conduct a trial knitting using a knitting machine gauge such as size and stitch length and a yarn-dyed yarn to be used for confirmation.
  • a knitting machine gauge such as size and stitch length and a yarn-dyed yarn
  • two different twist factors (K) within the range of 250 to 1300 The actual twist coefficient can be set by comparing the degree of the helical pattern that is made on the prototype and the front and rear bodies.
  • the knitting course and stitch etc. can be set freely, or by combining multiple colors It is possible to set the size of the number of patterns.
  • the inertia pattern it is possible to obtain a variety of elegantly knitted patterns and a drawn pattern with irregular irregularities at the switching boundary.
  • FIG. 1 is a plan view showing a loop shape of a flat stitch of a knitted knitting machine of the present invention.
  • FIG. 1 (a) shows a stable flat stitch
  • FIG. 1 (b) shows a deformed flat stitch.
  • the flat stitch 1 is called the center line y_y 'in the vertical direction, the left looper from the mouth to the mouth, the loop head from the mouth to the head, and the loop head from the head to the right loop leader.
  • the height in the vertical direction is h
  • the width is w
  • the thickness of the thread is d.
  • Curve 2 in the loop indicates the twist direction and the number of twists.
  • the left and right rudder have the same shape symmetrically about the center line y_y '.
  • the loop head is symmetrical.
  • the thickness of the thread is the same throughout.
  • the stitch shown in Fig. 1 (a) is a stable flat stitch 1, and if the height / width ratio is the stitch ratio (h / w), the beautiful shape is theoretically 1.25. However, it is said that the beautiful flat stitch 1 is 1.36 because the actual thread has twists.
  • the center line y_y' in the vertical direction is inclined to the left, the left and right shapes are different, and the thickness of the left loop leg dl Is thin and the thickness of the right loop d2 is large. Twisting number 2 also has many left-leaders and few right-loop leaders. As a result, the left loop radar sinks and becomes concave, and the right loop radar floats and becomes convex. This is a deformed flat stitch
  • FIG. 2 schematically shows the relationship between the skew, the direction of twist, and the number of twists of a flat knitted fabric comprising the deformed flat stitches of the present invention.
  • Fig. 2 (c) shows the left side of the flat knitted fabric.
  • Figure 2 (d) shows the weft knitted fabric to the right,
  • Figure 2 (e) shows the twisted yarn from the left,
  • Figure 2 (f) shows the twisted yarn from the right.
  • the entire knitted fabric 3 is skewed to the left and the individual flat stitches 1 ′ are also skewed in the same direction as in FIG. 1 (b).
  • the angle to the vertical in the vertical direction is evaluated at an oblique angle of 0 °. It is said that a general flat knitted fabric is a good flat knitted fabric with a skew angle of 0 ° within 3 °.
  • the flat knitted fabric 3 'inclined in the opposite direction to that of FIG. 2 (c) is skewed downward to the right, and the individual flat stitches 1' are inclined downward to the right.
  • the angle of inclination is evaluated as the skew angle S ° with the angle to the vertical line in the evening direction, as in Fig. 2 (c).
  • FIG. 1 the angle to the vertical in the vertical direction
  • the twisted yarn 4 shows the thickness in the vertical direction, and the fact that the twisting is performed from the left is represented by a solid line.
  • the twisting direction is shown at the lower left, and the number of twists is shown by the number of solid lines.
  • the arrow curve in the figure shows the direction of the turning torque generated when the twist is heat-treated or when the terminal is released, and corresponds to Fig. 2 (c).
  • the twisting yarn or the high twist yarn from the left in Fig. 2 (e) is used, the skewed flat knitted fabric 3 in Fig. 2 (c) is obtained.
  • the twisted yarn 4 ′ in FIG. 2 (f) corresponds to the flat knitted fabric 3 ′ and the deformed flat stitch 11 in FIG.
  • the skew angle formed in the above-mentioned twist coefficient range of 250 to 1300 is preferably 30 ° or less, more preferably 20 ° or less, and more preferably in consideration of the texture and sunset.
  • the slant pattern of the body and the sleeve of the whole garment using two or more colors is preferable because it is possible to express a large pattern every day.
  • FIG. 3 is a modified flat stitch showing another example of the present invention. The formation of an uneven pattern at the boundary point composed of the back stitch and the back knitting is shown by plotting a weaving knitting structure diagram on a grid paper as a model along the center line y-y 'shown in Fig. 1 (b). Fig.
  • FIG. 3 (g) shows the plane pattern
  • Fig. 3 (h) shows the vertical cross section of the knitted fabric with the horizontal border
  • Fig. 3 (i) shows the horizontal cross section of the knitted fabric with the vertical border.
  • symbols C 1 to C 6 arranged in the vertical direction on the left side of the figure indicate units formed in the address 1 by a continuous course of the front or back stitch of the stitch.
  • the symbols W1 to W6 arranged in the horizontal direction on the lower side also indicate a unit composed of a continuous ale of the front or back stitch of the stitch in the address 1.
  • the direction of the oblique line shown in each address is drawn in the direction of the oblique center line y-y 'shown in FIG. 1 (b).
  • the diagonal line to the right of the diagonal line at address 1 (C1, W1) indicates that the deformed stitches in (C1, W1) are skewed diagonally to the right for all the stitches.
  • the downward descent of the address 2 (Cl, W2) on the right side indicates that the deformed stitch is skewed to the left in all stitches.
  • the flat knitted fabric 50 is composed of flat stitches in which the addresses adjacent to each other are different in the oblique direction both left and right and up and down. As a result, irregularities occur at the boundaries of the addresses shown in FIGS. 3 (h) and 3 (i).
  • Fig. 3 (h) is a cross section of the flat knitted fabric 50 in Fig. 3 (g), and the cross section X--X 'line is along the addresses 1 to 6 and 11 to 16.
  • FIG. 7 is a vertical cross-sectional view showing a deformed flat stitch, which is a boundary line that has changed.
  • the uneven portion 10 1 at the longitudinal section is located at the intersection of addresses 1, 2, 11, and 12, and the knitting yarn that has formed a flat stitch that is individually deformed in each address It is presumed that the turning torques were combined and collected as total energy, resulting in protrusions on either side and stabilized.
  • the adjacent projection-like unevenness 102 is at the intersection of addresses 3, 4, 13, and 14.
  • the frequency of the appearance of the protrusions is spontaneous and exists only on one side. However, no projecting irregularities are observed at the intersections of addresses 2, 3, 12, and 13.
  • the vertical section Y-Y 'in Fig. 3 (g) is the boundary line along addresses 1 to 51 and addresses 2 to 52, and the different cross sections of the deformed flat stitch FIG.
  • the section 13 1 with the uneven cross section is located at the intersection of addresses 21, 22, 31 and 32. As in FIG. 3 (h), no protrusions and depressions are observed at the intersections of addresses 11, 12, 21 and 22. In other words, even if each address is composed of the same number of ailes and courses in flat stitches that are skewed in the left, right, up, and down directions, the original twist, number of twists, twist direction, face and back of the spun yarn used It is presumed that due to a slight difference in the magnitude and direction of the knitting torque of the knitting yarn for each address due to the combination of the above, it does not necessarily occur adjacent to each other.
  • FIG. 4 is a plan view showing another example of the present invention.
  • the flat knitted fabric 60 is formed by alternately arranging the front or back stitches of the flat stitches transformed into the size A, B, and C in units of 10 ⁇ ales, and the knitting course is divided into blocks C 1 to C of several courses.
  • the slant pattern can be composed of the flat stitches, and a zigzag vertical line pattern (swing pattern) can be obtained.
  • pattern 1 of block C 1 (C 1, A) is the top surface
  • pattern 2 (C 1, B) is the back line
  • pattern 3 (C 1, C) is the top surface.
  • a few courses will be organized with handle 1 of block C2 (C2, A) as the backslash
  • handle 2 (C2, B) as the face
  • handle 3 (C2, C) as the backlash.
  • Polylactic acid fiber staple (2.2 dte XX 51 mm) with a thickness of 72.5 gelle / 30 yd roving, using a normal ring spinning machine to breakbreak draft 1.6
  • the twist factor per inch to 3.25 Z-twisting, set the total draft to 14.9 times, and spin at 30's (E, C, C) spinning conditions.
  • Knitted yarn manufactured by Kanebo Fibers Co., Ltd., trade name "Lactron” spun yarn).
  • the twist coefficient (K) of this knitting yarn was 990.
  • the thickness unevenness (U%) of the Wooster measuring device (manufactured by Measuring Instruments Co., Ltd.) was 13.1%.
  • the boiling water shrinkage measured by the above method was 11%.
  • the knitting yarn was dyed with a disperse dye in a produced color and a medium color (gray) in cheese (90 ° C. for 45 minutes).
  • a fully automatic weft knitting machine 12 gauge manufactured by Shima Seiki Co., Ltd., SWGX type
  • a women's sweater is planned. Up to grey, then switched to the produced yarn to knit the hole garment.
  • the final set was finished with a dry iron at 120-130 ° C.
  • the product weighs 190 to 5 gZ, skew angle ( ⁇ ) 14 to: 16 °, and forms a sloping pattern that extends over the front and back, as well as the sleeves, giving a soft texture. I got one night.
  • the boiling water shrinkage measured by the above method was 10.8%.
  • the twist ratio of 32Z2 was S-twisted at 82% of the original twist, and the twist was stopped at 65 ° C for 20 minutes.
  • the cheese was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1. Then, using the above-mentioned mixed spinning, by the fully automatic flat knitting machine used in Example 1, as two women's sweaters, the tie-dyeing projection pattern of FIG. 3 and the arrow pattern of FIG. Produced.
  • the number of ales constituting the address is set to 20 ales (units: displayed as eyes) and 24 courses (tiers), and the front and back stitches are arranged alternately. Two color schemes are available: beige and gray.
  • the block pattern 1 (C 1; 8 rows, A; ⁇ Ale number 100 rows, same display below), Pattern 2 (C 2; 8 rows, B; 45 rows), Pattern 3 (C 3; 5 rows, B; 75 rows) and Pattern 4 (C4; 12th row, D; 30th) is sequentially set for the total number of needles (front, back, and sleeves), and the deformed flat stitch surface (here, pattern 1 and pattern) 3) and back side (pattern 2 and pattern 4).
  • the design of the final pattern collapse part was modified on CAD.
  • the color scheme was the same as that shown in Fig. 3.
  • the final set was dried on a wire mesh at 80 ° C for 30 minutes.
  • Each of the obtained sweaters expresses a characteristic pattern, and the two types of patterns shown in Fig.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention expresses various design motifs such as irregular irregularities and skew that can be naturalized and individualized by deformed stitches caused by the shrinkage characteristics of the specific knitting yarn. can do.
  • Such a knitted design can sufficiently respond to the consumer's growing preference for natural preference and individualization. Therefore, if the knitted fabric of the present invention is applied to clothing, for example, various outerwears or innerwears, when worn, will be deformed and fitted in accordance with the body shape and worn for a long time. It does not disappear or remain deformed even if worn repeatedly, and has a good appearance over a long period of time Can be expressed.
  • design motifs such as "wrinkles” and "irregularities” are not sufficiently durable, and may shrink and change in size. Excellent quality can be maintained for a long time without any worries.

Abstract

A knit fabric of natural feeling design motif such as “crease”, ”irregularity” or ”bias filling”. The knit fabric is constituted of a knitting yarn exhibiting a thickness unevenness (U%), measured by Uster tester, of ±3% or greater, a boiling water shrinkage of 5 to 15% and a twist multiplier (K) of 2500 to 13000, the knitting yarn containing polylactic acid fibers and having been subjected to 120ºC or below low temperature thermal treatment. In this knit fabric, referring to Fig. 1(b), each knitted loop undergoes oblique deformation, and, by virtue of the deformed knitted loop, there occur natural feeling “crease”, ”irregularity”, ”bias filling”, etc.

Description

編物およびその製造方法  Knitted fabric and manufacturing method thereof
技俯分野 Technique field
本発明は、 編糸の収縮を利用した個性的なデザインを持つ編物および その製造方法に関する。  The present invention relates to a knitted fabric having a unique design utilizing shrinkage of a knitting yarn and a method for producing the knitted fabric.
明 背景技術  Akira Background technology
 book
一般に、 横編機によるセーター、 カーディガン等の編物衣服は、 前身 頃、 後身頃および袖等の各部位毎に編成し、 ついで、 これらと各部の付 属部とをリンキングマシン若しくはミシンで縫製することにより製造さ れている。 これらの編物衣類の製造では、 平型の横編機の往復運動によ つて各部 1枚ずつ編成する手法であるために、 先染糸 (編糸) として、 斜行の発生や両耳部で異常張力を起こさない安定した糸条が適用されて きた。 他方、 小寸の丸編機で無縫製天竺ショーツが U S P 4 0 4 8 8 1 9号公報および特許 1 1 9 0 7 8 9号公報等により開示され、 また、 コ ンピューター化の普及に呼応し、 横編機についても無鏠製ホ一ルガーメ ント機が特開昭 6 0 - 1 9 4 1 5 4号公報、 特開平 7— 1 1 9 0 0 4号 公報等に開示されている。 かかるホールガーメント横編機では、 配色お よび編組織の組合せの多様化と、 見本出しから製品化までの省力および 短縮化が可能である。  Generally, knitted garments such as sweaters and cardigans by flat knitting machines are knitted for each part such as the front body, back body, and sleeves, and then these and the parts attached to each part are sewn with a linking machine or sewing machine. It is manufactured by In the production of these knitted garments, each part is knitted one by one by reciprocating motion of a flat type flat knitting machine. Stable yarns that do not cause abnormal tension have been applied. On the other hand, seamless sewing shorts with small circular knitting machines have been disclosed in US Pat. No. 4,048,189 and Japanese Patent No. 11990789, and in response to the spread of computerization. As for the flat knitting machine, a non-woven hole garment machine is disclosed in Japanese Unexamined Patent Application Publication No. Sho 60-194154, Japanese Unexamined Patent Application Publication No. Hei 7-119004, and the like. With this WHOLEGARMENT flat knitting machine, it is possible to diversify the combination of color scheme and knitting structure, and to save labor and shorten from sample production to commercialization.
上記のように、 様々なデザィンゃ用途の可能性がある編物の製造方法 が開発されているが、 これらは人工的若しくは無機的なデザィンを中心 としており、 斬新さやアピール性がなく、 時として没個性的になるおそ れがある。 一方、 最近の自然志向の高まりから、 以前は、 厄介者扱いさ れてきた "しわ"、 "凹凸" 若しくは "斜行" 等を利用した不規則モチ一 フ若しくはアンバランスモチーフなどが、 自然的である、 若しくは個性 的であるという理由により、 新たなデザィンモチーフになり得ると考え られ、 これは編物にも適用できる。 編物において、 "しわ" や "凹凸"若 しくは "斜行" 等を利用した不規則モチーフ若しくはアンバランスモチ ーフなどを発現させる方法として、 編目の変形が考えられる。 しかし、 従来の横編機やホールガーメントに編目の変形を適用しょうとすると、 例えば、 横編地の両耳部に編キズあるいは編筋欠点が発生したり、 前身 頃と後身頃の斜行方向が逆になり、 たるみのある変形した着用感に欠け た衣服となるなどの問題点がある。 発明の開示 As mentioned above, knitted fabrics have been developed that have potential for various designs, but these are mainly artificial or inorganic designs, lack novelty and appeal, and are sometimes lost. Personalization There is. On the other hand, due to the recent increase in nature orientation, irregular motifs or unbalanced motifs using “wrinkles”, “irregularities” or “skews”, which were previously treated as troublesome, have become more natural. It is considered that it can be a new design motif because it is unique or unique, and it can be applied to knitted fabrics. As a method of expressing an irregular motif or an unbalanced motif using “wrinkles”, “unevenness” or “skew” in a knitted fabric, deformation of a stitch can be considered. However, when applying deformation of a stitch to a conventional flat knitting machine or hole garment, for example, a knitted scratch or a stitch defect occurs at the both ears of the flat knitted fabric, or the skew direction of the front and rear bodies However, there is a problem that clothes become loose and lack a feeling of wearing. Disclosure of the invention
本発明は、このような事情に鑑みなされたもので、編目の変形により、 斬新でアピール性がある個性的なデザインを実現し、 しかも編み傷や編 筋欠点がなく、 衣服にした場合、 フィット感ある編物の提供を、 その目 的とする。 前記目的を達成するために、 本発明の第 1の編物は、 ポリ乳酸繊維を 有する編糸を含む編物であって、 前記編糸の収縮に起因する編目の変形 を有する編物である。 また、 本発明の第 2の編物は、 ゥ一スター測定器 で測定した U %が ± 3以上の太さ斑を有する繊維を有し、 沸水収縮率が 5〜 1 5 %の範囲であり、 かつ撚係数 (K ) が 2 5 0 0〜 1 3 0 0 0で ある編糸を含む編物であって、 前記編糸の収縮に起因する編目の変形を 有する編物である。 このような編物は、 ポリ乳酸繊維を含んだ編糸若しくは前記特殊な特 性を持つ網糸の収縮による編目の変形を持っため、"しわ"、"凹凸"や"斜 行" 等による不規則モチーフ若しくはアンバランスモチーフを容易に発 現することができ、 しかも編み傷や編筋欠点がなく、 衣類にしたときの 着用感にも問題がない。なお、本発明の編物は、前記特殊な編糸の他に、 一般的な編糸を併用してもよい。 図面の簡単な説明 The present invention has been made in view of such circumstances, and realizes a novel and appealing unique design by deforming the stitches, and furthermore, there is no knitting scratches and knitting streaks, and when it is made into clothes, The aim is to provide a sense of knitting. In order to achieve the above object, a first knitted fabric of the present invention is a knitted fabric including a knitting yarn having a polylactic acid fiber, the knitted fabric having a deformation of a stitch caused by shrinkage of the knitting yarn. Further, the second knitted fabric of the present invention has fibers having a thickness unevenness of ± 3 or more measured by a U-star measuring instrument, and the boiling water shrinkage is in a range of 5 to 15%, A knitted material including a knitting yarn having a twist coefficient (K) of 2500 to 1300, and having a deformation of a stitch due to shrinkage of the knitting yarn. Since such a knitted fabric has a knitting deformation due to shrinkage of a knitting yarn containing polylactic acid fibers or a mesh yarn having the above-mentioned special characteristics, irregularities such as "wrinkles", "irregularities" and "skew" are caused. A motif or an unbalanced motif can be easily expressed, and there are no knitting scratches or knitting defects, and there is no problem in the feeling of wearing when made into clothing. The knitted fabric of the present invention may use a general knitting yarn in addition to the special knitting yarn. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
第 1図は、 本発明の一実施例の編目構造図を示す模式図であり、 第 2 図は、 本発明における斜行編地と撚糸の関係一例を示すの模式的平面図 であり、 第 3図は、 本発明における他の実施例の模式的組織図であり、 第 4図は、 本発明におけるさらに他の実施例の模式的組織図である。 発明を実施するための最良の形態  FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing a stitch structure diagram of one embodiment of the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a schematic plan view showing an example of a relationship between a skew knitted fabric and a twisted yarn in the present invention. FIG. 3 is a schematic organization diagram of another embodiment of the present invention, and FIG. 4 is a schematic organization diagram of still another embodiment of the present invention. BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
前記 U%は、 好ましくは ± 3 %以上、 より好ましくは ± 1 0 %以上で あり、 その上限は 1 3 %である。 前記沸水収縮率は、 好ましくは 5〜1 5 %であり、 より好ましくは 7〜 1 2 %である。 沸水収縮率は、 以下で 定義される。 また、 撚係数(K) は、 2 5 0 0〜 1 3 0 0 0が好ましく、 より好ましくは 3 0 00〜1 20 0 0である。  The U% is preferably ± 3% or more, more preferably ± 10% or more, and the upper limit is 13%. The boiling water shrinkage is preferably 5 to 15%, more preferably 7 to 12%. Boiling water shrinkage is defined below. The twist coefficient (K) is preferably from 2,500 to 1,300, more preferably from 3,000 to 1,200,000.
(沸水収縮率の定義) (Definition of boiling water shrinkage)
J I S L— 1 0 1 3 7. 1 5 B法(フイラメント収縮率)に準ずる。 試料に初荷重をかけ、 正しく 5 0 0 mmを測って 2点を打ち、 初荷重を 除き、 これを沸騰水 (98〜1 0 0 c c) の熱水中に 30分間浸漬した 後、取り出して軽く吸取紙又は布で水をきり、風乾後再び初荷重をかけ、 2点間の長さを測り、 次の式によって沸騰水収縮率 (%) を算出する。 試料数は 5回とする。 JISL—1 0 1 3 7.15 According to the B method (filament shrinkage). Apply an initial load to the sample, measure 500 mm correctly, strike at 2 points, remove the initial load, immerse the sample in hot water of boiling water (98 to 100 cc) for 30 minutes, then remove it Drain lightly with blotter or cloth, air-dry and apply the initial load again, measure the length between the two points, and calculate the boiling water shrinkage (%) by the following formula. The number of samples shall be 5 times.
沸縢水収縮率 (%) = [ ( 5 0 0— L ) / 5 0 0 ] X 1 0 0  Boiler water shrinkage (%) = [(500-L) / 500] X100
L:沸騰水処理後の 2点間の長さ (mm) 本発明の編物においては、 前記所定の物性を持つ編糸 (第 2の発明) が、 ポリ乳酸繊維を含むことが好ましい。 この場合、 ポリ乳酸繊維の含 有率が 5 1重量%以上であることが好ましく、 より好ましくは 6 5重 量%以上であり、 1 0 0重量% (ポリ乳酸繊維単独) であってもよい。 本発明の編物において、 変形した編目が、 斜めに傾いた平編目である ことが好ましい。 本発明の編物において、 先染糸の配色柄が表目若しくは裏目の少なく とも一方を構成することにより、 斜行柄、 振り止め柄若しくは凸状の寄 せ柄が形成されていることが好ましい。 また、 変形した編目により凹凸 が生じていることも好ましい。 本発明の編物は、衣服であることが好ましい。衣類は特に制限されず、 例えば、 セーター、 シャツ等のトツブスからワンピース、 スカートまた はパンツ等のボトムがある。 また、 衣服は、 外衣に限定されず、 中衣、 内衣でもよい。 また、 衣類は、 人間用に限定されず、 動物用衣服、 人形 用衣服であってもよい。 また、 本発明の編物は、 衣服に限定されず、 そ の他、 例えば、 家具のカバー、 テレフォンカバー、 花瓶、 電気スタンド カバ一、 ティヅシユカパー等の各種カバーであってもよい。 つぎに、 本発明の編物の第 1の製造方法は、 ポリ乳酸繊維を含む編糸 を編むことにより編物を製造する製造方法であって、 前記編糸が収縮す る温度で過熱処理すること工程を含むことにより、 編目の変形を生じさ せる製造方法である。 また、 本発明の編物の第 2の製造方法は、 ウース 夕一測定器で測定した U %が ± 3以上の太さ斑を有する繊維を有し、 沸 水収縮率が 5〜1 5 %の範囲であり、 かつ撚係数 (K ) が 2 5 0 0〜1 3 0 0 0である編糸を編むことにより編物を製造する製造方法であって, 前記編糸が収縮する温度で加熱処理する工程を含むことにより、 編目の 変形を生じさせる製造方法である。 これらの製造方法によれば、 前記ポリ乳酸繊維を含んだ編糸若しくは 前記特殊な特性を持つ編糸が収縮し、 その結果、 編目が変形する。 この ため、 本発明の製造方法により得られた編物では、 前記変形した編目に より "しわ"、 "凹凸" や "斜行" 等が容易に発現し、 かつ長期間その形 状を保ち、 しかも編み傷や編筋欠点がなく、 衣類にしたときの着用感に も問題がない。 本発明の製造方法において、前記所定の物性の編糸(第 2の製造方法) がポリ乳酸繊維を含むことが好ましい。 この場合、 ポリ乳酸繊維の含有 率が 5 1重量%以上であることが好ましく、 より好ましくは 6 5重量% 以上であり、 1 0 0重量 であってもよい。 本発明の製造方法において、 加熱処理は、 編む前に前記編糸に対して 行われてもよいし、 編んだ後に、 行ってもよいし、 前後の双方に渡って 加熱処理を行ってもよい。 編んだ後に行う場合、 編物全体を加熱処理し てもよく、 アイロン処理やプレス処理を兼ねたものであってもよい。 編 む前に編糸に加熱処理を行う場合、 その加熱処理は、 編糸の先染色工程 での加熱処理であってもよい。 この場合、 先染糸が、 編む前の加熱処理 編糸になる。 編む前の加熱処理の条件は、 例えば、 6 0〜 1 1 5 °Cであ り、 好ましくは 8 0〜1 0 0 °C、 より好ましくは 8 5〜9 6 である。 編んだ後の加熱処理の条件は、 例えば、 9 5〜 1 1 8 °Cであり、 好まし くは 9 8〜: L 1 0 °C、 より好ましくは 9 8〜; L 0 5 °Cである。 また、 加 熱処理を衣服に対して行う塌合は、 実質的に拘束しない状態で行うこと が、 自然なしわや凹凸等ができるため、 好ましい。 本発明の製造方法において、 前記編物の編み方が、 先染糸の配色柄が 表目および裏目の少なくとも一方を構成するように編み上げる平編であ り、 この編み方によって変形した編目が生じて斜行柄、 振り止め柄若し くは凸状の絞り柄を出すことが好ましい。 本発明の製造方法において、 先染糸を用い、 前後に 1列釙を要する平 型横編機または小寸の両頭針を利用した丸編機によってホールガーメン トを形成し、 このホールガーメント形成と同時にまたは別個に他の部材 若しくは付属部材を形成し、 これら部材をホールガーメントに縫製する ことにより前記編物を製造することが好ましい。 以下に、 本発明の編物について、 例をあげてさらに説明する。 本発明で使用する糸条としては、 例えば、 編目が変形した平編目であ る場合、ポリエステルやナイロン等が汎用されている合成繊維の強撚糸、 先撚り加工糸等からなる糸条 (前記所定の物性のもの) を用いることが できるが、 ポリ乳酸繊維からなる糸条を用いることが好ましい。 かかる ポリ乳酸繊維からなる糸条を用いて得た編目の変形は、 過度な強撚数が 不要で、 通常の撚数もしくはやや強めの撚数を施撚する程度で、 繊維が 柔軟で低温セット性を有することから変形編目が得られ易い。 また、 ポリ乳酸繊維を用いて得た編物製品は、 使用後等に廃棄された 場合であっても、 土中や水中の微生物によって分解されるため、 地球環 境上有利である。 このポリ乳酸繊維からなる糸条は、 例えば、 特開 2 0 0 0— 8 0 5 3 1号公報において記載されているように、 ポリ乳酸樹脂 を融点以上に加熱溶融した後、 微小な複数個の吐出孔が形成された紡糸 口金から吐出し冷却して得た糸条を所定速度で巻き取ることによって得 ることができる。 巻き取られた糸条には、 必要に応じて延伸を施すこと によって、 ウースター測定器で測定した糸の太さ斑 (U % ) が ± 3 %以 上の太さ斑を有する繊維によって構成され、 かつ沸水収縮率が 5〜 1 5 %のポリ乳酸繊維からなる糸条を得ることができる。 前記糸の太さ斑 (U% ) は、 好ましくは ± 3 %以上であり、 より好ましくは ± 1 0 %以 上である。 前記糸の太さ斑 (U% ) の上限は、 前述のとおりである。 前 記沸水収縮率も、 前述と同様に 5〜 1 5 %が好ましく、 より好ましくは 7〜 1 2 %である。 なお、 糸条として、 ポリ乳酸繊維からなる長繊維フィラメントからな る糸条であってもよく、 短繊維からなる紡績糸、 あるいはポリ乳酸繊維 からなる長繊維フィラメントと合成繊維または天然繊維からなる長繊維 フィラメントとの交撚糸、 混繊糸であってもよく、 または短繊維紡績と しての混紡糸であってもよい。 本発明において、 例えば、 ポリ乳酸繊維単独からなる編物衣服は、 長 繊維フィラメント糸または短繊維紡績糸のいずれの先染糸であっても、 低度目に設定することが、 清涼感に富み、 編目に発現する自然で不規則 な凹凸状の模様が得られて好ましい。 一方、 ポリ乳酸繊維と、 天然繊維 (絹、 羊毛、 綿) または合成繊維 (レ 一ヨン、 テンセル、 ナイロン仮より加工糸、 他) 等との混紡糸、 または 交撚糸あるいは交絡混繊糸を用いることによって、 天然繊維若しくは合 成繊維の特徴を発揮でき、 かつポリ乳酸繊維の混用率および撚係数で用 途に応じた独特な編物衣服を得ることができる。 本発明では、 糸条に、 撚係数 (K) が 2 5 0 0〜1 3 0 0 0の範囲の 撚りを付与することが好ましい。 この撚係数は、 以下の式で算出される K = T X [糸条の太さ ( d t e x ) ] 1 / 2 L: Length between two points after boiling water treatment (mm) In the knitted fabric of the present invention, it is preferable that the knitting yarn having the predetermined physical properties (the second invention) contains a polylactic acid fiber. In this case, the content of the polylactic acid fiber is preferably 51% by weight or more, more preferably 65% by weight or more, or 100% by weight (polylactic acid fiber alone). . In the knitted fabric of the present invention, it is preferable that the deformed stitch is a flat stitch obliquely inclined. In the knitted fabric of the present invention, it is preferable that the skewed pattern, the anti-swing pattern or the convex side pattern is formed by forming at least one of the coloration pattern of the yarn-dyed yarn on the surface or the back. It is also preferable that unevenness is caused by the deformed stitch. The knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably clothing. There are no particular restrictions on clothing, and for example, there are tops such as sweaters and shirts to bottoms such as dresses, skirts and pants. The clothing is not limited to the outer garment, but may be a middle garment or an inner garment. Further, the clothing is not limited to human clothing, but may be animal clothing or doll clothing. Further, the knitted fabric of the present invention is not limited to clothes, and may be various types of covers such as furniture covers, telephone covers, vases, desk lamp covers, and tea covers. Next, a first method for producing a knitted fabric of the present invention comprises a knitting yarn containing a polylactic acid fiber. A knitted fabric is manufactured by knitting a knitted fabric, which includes a step of performing an overheat treatment at a temperature at which the knitting yarn shrinks, thereby causing a deformation of a stitch. In addition, the second method for producing a knitted fabric of the present invention includes a fiber having a thickness unevenness of ± 3 or more in U% measured by a wool measuring device, and a boiling water shrinkage of 5 to 15%. A method for producing a knitted product by knitting a knitting yarn having a twist coefficient (K) of from 2,500 to 1,300,000, wherein the knitting yarn is subjected to heat treatment at a temperature at which the knitting yarn shrinks. This is a manufacturing method in which a stitch is deformed by including a step. According to these manufacturing methods, the knitting yarn containing the polylactic acid fiber or the knitting yarn having the special characteristics shrinks, and as a result, the stitch is deformed. For this reason, in the knitted fabric obtained by the production method of the present invention, "wrinkles", "irregularities", "skews" and the like are easily developed by the deformed stitches, and the shape is maintained for a long time. There are no knitting scratches or knitting defects, and there is no problem with the feeling of wearing when made into clothing. In the production method of the present invention, it is preferable that the knitting yarn having the predetermined physical properties (the second production method) contains a polylactic acid fiber. In this case, the content of the polylactic acid fiber is preferably 51% by weight or more, more preferably 65% by weight or more, and may be 100% by weight. In the manufacturing method of the present invention, the heat treatment may be performed on the knitting yarn before knitting, may be performed after knitting, or may be performed before and after the knitting. . When the knitting is performed after the knitting, the entire knitted material may be subjected to a heat treatment, or may be a combination of an ironing treatment and a press treatment. When heat treatment is performed on the knitting yarn before knitting, the heat treatment is performed in the knitting yarn pre-dyeing process. May be a heat treatment. In this case, the dyed yarn becomes a heat-treated knitted yarn before knitting. The conditions for the heat treatment before knitting are, for example, 60 to 115 ° C, preferably 80 to 100 ° C, and more preferably 85 to 96. The conditions for the heat treatment after knitting are, for example, 95 to 118 ° C, preferably 98 to: L10 ° C, more preferably 98 to; is there. When the heat treatment is performed on the clothes, it is preferable that the heat treatment is performed in a substantially unconstrained state, since natural wrinkles and irregularities can be formed. In the production method of the present invention, the method of knitting the knitted fabric is a flat knitting in which the color pattern of the yarn-dyed yarn constitutes at least one of the front and back stitches. It is preferable to provide an oblique pattern, a swing pattern or a convex drawing pattern. In the production method of the present invention, hole garment is formed by a flat-type flat knitting machine requiring one line before and after using a yarn-dyed yarn or a circular knitting machine using a small double-ended needle. It is preferable to manufacture the above-mentioned knitted fabric by simultaneously or separately forming other members or accessory members and sewing these members to a whole garment. Hereinafter, the knitted fabric of the present invention will be further described by way of examples. As the yarn used in the present invention, for example, in the case where the stitch is a deformed flat stitch, a yarn made of a strong twisted yarn or a pre-twisted yarn of a synthetic fiber generally used such as polyester and nylon (the above-mentioned predetermined yarn) However, it is preferable to use a yarn made of polylactic acid fiber. The deformation of the stitch obtained by using such a yarn made of polylactic acid fiber is caused by an excessive number of strong twists. Unnecessary, just twisting a normal twist number or a slightly stronger twist number, the fiber is flexible and has a low-temperature setting property, so that a deformed stitch can be easily obtained. Further, knitted products obtained using polylactic acid fibers are degraded by microorganisms in the soil and water even if they are discarded after use, and are thus advantageous in the global environment. As described in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2000-85031, for example, a yarn made of polylactic acid fibers is heated and melted to a melting point or higher, and then a plurality of fine fibers are formed. It can be obtained by winding a yarn obtained by discharging from a spinneret having the above-described discharge hole and cooling it at a predetermined speed. The wound yarn is stretched as necessary to make up a fiber whose thickness unevenness (U%) measured with a Wooster measuring instrument is ± 3% or more. A yarn made of polylactic acid fiber having a boiling water shrinkage of 5 to 15% can be obtained. The thickness unevenness (U%) of the yarn is preferably ± 3% or more, and more preferably ± 10% or more. The upper limit of the thickness unevenness (U%) of the yarn is as described above. The boiling water shrinkage is preferably 5 to 15%, more preferably 7 to 12%, as described above. The yarn may be a yarn made of long fiber filaments made of polylactic acid fiber, a spun yarn made of short fibers, or a long yarn made of long fiber filaments made of polylactic acid fiber and synthetic fibers or natural fibers. It may be a twisted yarn with a fiber filament, a mixed fiber yarn, or a mixed yarn as a short fiber spinning. In the present invention, for example, a knitted garment made of only polylactic acid fiber may be any yarn of any of long fiber filament yarn and short fiber spun yarn, It is preferable to set the degree to a low degree because a refreshing feeling is obtained and a natural and irregular pattern of irregularities appearing in the stitch is obtained. On the other hand, use blended yarn of polylactic acid fiber and natural fiber (silk, wool, cotton) or synthetic fiber (rayon, tencel, nylon false twisted yarn, etc.), or twisted or entangled mixed yarn. As a result, the characteristics of natural fibers or synthetic fibers can be exhibited, and a unique knitted garment can be obtained in accordance with the application with the mixing ratio and twist coefficient of polylactic acid fibers. In the present invention, it is preferable that a twist having a twist coefficient (K) in the range of 250 to 1300 is imparted to the yarn. This twist coefficient is calculated by the following equation: K = TX [thickness of yarn (dtex)] 1/2
式中の Tは撚数 (回 Zm) を表す。 ここで、 撚係数 (K) が 2 5 0 0未満の撚数では、 得られる編目に充 分な変形を発現し難くなるおそれがある。 一方、 この撚係数 (K) が 1 3 0 0 0を超えると過度な強撚となり、 風合いが硬く、 編成時の通過ト ラブルゃ編キズの発因となるおそれがある。 この撚り糸を、編糸にする以前に先染色する。例えば、前記撚り糸を、 糸染機の形態に応じて、 ソフト巻チーズ、 または総、 その他のパッケ一 ジ姿に巻返し、 例えば、 詰込式パッケージ染色機、 回転式パドル染色機 等の糸染機で、 染色する。 前記の様にして得られた撚糸は、 沸水収縮率 が 5〜 1 5 %と通常の原糸に比べ高収縮であるために、 ソフトチーズ等 が好ましいが、 予備セットしたものまたはスプリングダイチューブ使用 したものがより好ましく、 さらに総染または、 マフ染がより好ましい。 染色条件は、 染色機や染料の種類等により適宜決定する。 この染色にお いて、 助剤を使用してもよい。 染色した後、 編成に必要な平滑剤、 柔軟 剤等で仕上処理を施し、 脱水、 乾燥し、 さらに編機に仕掛るために、 コ ーン巻またはチーズ巻に巻上げる。 次いで、 前記編糸 (先染糸) を、 前後に 1列針を配する平型横編機に 仕掛けて前べッドから後べッドへと巡回させるようにキヤリッジを往復 運動させ、 前身頃と後身頃を連続とするホールガ一メントを成し、 その 両側に配置してある袖部とを同時に編成する。 編成パターンは裾の付属 から身生地、 最終襟首まわりの付属で編物製品が一貫して編成完了すベ く、 すべてコンピューターソフトで自動切り替え、 選針機構等を連動し て製品が完成するよう仕組むことも可能である。 一方、 小寸の両頭針を利用した丸編機に仕掛ける場合、 各部位毎の専 用丸編機を用いる必要があり、 編成後の丸生地を別途整理仕上した後、 カットソー工程でデザイン、 サイズ別にパターンに応じて裁断して、 ミ シン掛け、 仕上セットして編物製品を製造する。 本発明において、 ホールガ一メントの編物衣服としては、 衣服を構成 する編目が変形した平編目で形成されることが好ましい。 通常、 横編で は、 美しい編目とされる形状は、 黄金カードであり、 かつ構成する編目 の左右のループレダのバランスが均等である場合である。 しかし、 本発 明の変形した平編目は、 前記した強撚片撚糸、 先撚り加工糸などの極端 な撚糸トルクやネジレを伴なうことなく、 編目の形状のみが左右ループ レグのアンバランスな形態を発現し、 ソフト夕ツチである点が大きく異 なる。この性状の起因する要素としては、ポリ乳酸繊維を使用した場合、 ポリマーの重合度分布、 それに起因する太さ斑や長手方向の沸水収縮率 等のバラツキによると推測される。 また、 本発明の第 2の編物における 編糸では、 前記所定の物性を持つことが、 前記特殊な変形編目の原因で あると推測する。 本発明において、 ホールガーメントの形成は、 例えば、 あらかじめデ ザィンするものをコンピュータ一グラフィックに描き、 胴体部と袖部を 一体に構成したり、 その前後に必要な付属部ならびにデザィン柄に応じ た配色数別に模様を描かせて、 サイズ、 度目等の編機ゲージ、 使用する 先染糸を用いて試編を実施して確認することが好ましい。 具体的には、 先染糸の配色による前 ·後身頃に連続する斜行柄を得るために、 撚係数 ( K ) が 2 5 0 0〜 1 3 0 0 0の範囲内の異なる 2点を試作し、 前後の 身頃に連続するラセン柄の程度を比較して、 実際の撚係数を設定すれば よい。 また、 表目の裏目の組合せで表現させる振り止め柄または不規則 な凹凸状の寄せ柄を得るために、 編込コースや度目等を自在に設定した り、 複数の配色を組合せることによって任意のゥヱ一ル数ゃ柄の大きさ を設定することが可能である。 さらにインタ一シャ柄を用いることによ つて多様な雅趣に富んだ編柄と切り替え境界目に不規則な凹凸状の絞り 柄を得ることができる。 T in the equation represents the number of twists (times Zm). Here, if the twist number (K) is less than 250, the sufficient knitting of the obtained stitch may be difficult to develop. On the other hand, if the twisting coefficient (K) exceeds 1300, excessive twisting occurs, the texture is hard, and there is a possibility that a knitting problem may occur during the knitting of the passing trouble during knitting. The twisted yarn is pre-dyed before knitting. For example, the twisted yarn is rewound into a soft-wound cheese or a total package according to the form of the yarn dyeing machine, for example, a yarn dyeing machine such as a stuffing type package dyeing machine or a rotary paddle dyeing machine. Dye on the machine. The twisted yarn obtained as described above has a boiling water shrinkage of 5 to 15%, which is high shrinkage as compared with a normal yarn, so soft cheese or the like is preferable, but a pre-set yarn or a spring die tube is used. More preferably, total dyeing or muff dyeing is more preferable. The dyeing conditions are appropriately determined depending on the type of the dyeing machine and the dye. In this dyeing, an auxiliary may be used. After dyeing, it is finished with a smoothing agent, softening agent, etc. necessary for knitting, dewatered, dried, and wound up in a cone or cheese for finishing on a knitting machine. Next, the knitting yarn (yarn-dyed yarn) is set on a flat type flat knitting machine having a single row of needles at the front and rear, and the carriage is reciprocated so as to circulate from the front bed to the rear bed. A hole garment with a continuous body and back body is formed, and the sleeves arranged on both sides are simultaneously knitted. The knitting pattern should be such that the knitted product should be completed consistently with the attachment from the hem to the body cloth and the attachment around the final collar.All should be automatically switched by computer software, and the needle selection mechanism etc. should be linked to complete the product. Is also possible. On the other hand, when setting up a circular knitting machine using small double-headed needles, it is necessary to use a special circular knitting machine for each part.After separately organizing and finishing the circular fabric after knitting, design and size in the cut-and-sew process Separately, it is cut according to the pattern, machined, finished and set to manufacture knitted products. In the present invention, as the knitted garment of the hole garment, it is preferable that the stitches constituting the garment are formed of deformed flat stitches. Normally, in the horizontal knitting, the shape that is considered to be a beautiful stitch is a golden card, and the left and right loops of the constituent stitches have an equal balance. However, the deformed flat stitch of the present invention has an unbalanced left and right loop leg only in the shape of the stitch without accompanying the extreme twisting torque and twisting of the strong twisted piece twisted yarn and the pre-twisted yarn described above. It is very different in that it expresses its morphology and is soft. As an element due to this property, when polylactic acid fiber is used, This is presumed to be due to variations in the distribution of the degree of polymerization of the polymer, resulting in unevenness in thickness and shrinkage of boiling water in the longitudinal direction. In the knitting yarn of the second knitted fabric of the present invention, it is presumed that having the predetermined physical properties is a cause of the special deformed stitch. In the present invention, the formation of the whole garment is performed, for example, by drawing a design to be designed in advance using a computer graphic, by integrally configuring the body and the sleeve, and by attaching a necessary accessory part before and after that and a color scheme according to the design pattern. It is preferable to make a pattern by drawing, and to conduct a trial knitting using a knitting machine gauge such as size and stitch length and a yarn-dyed yarn to be used for confirmation. Specifically, in order to obtain a continuous skew pattern on the front and back body by the color scheme of the yarn-dyed yarn, two different twist factors (K) within the range of 250 to 1300 The actual twist coefficient can be set by comparing the degree of the helical pattern that is made on the prototype and the front and rear bodies. In addition, in order to obtain a swing pattern or irregular uneven pattern that can be expressed by the combination of the back and front of the front and back, the knitting course and stitch etc. can be set freely, or by combining multiple colors It is possible to set the size of the number of patterns. Furthermore, by using the inertia pattern, it is possible to obtain a variety of elegantly knitted patterns and a drawn pattern with irregular irregularities at the switching boundary.
' 最終的に、 編物を、 実質的に拘束することなく熱処理を施し、 残留す る撚糸トルクを再発現して仕上セットとする。 この熱処理は、 1 2 0 以下のドライアイロンまたは型枠状でのスチーム無しプレスセットであ つてもよい。 処理温度、 時間は使用した素材によって適宜に設定すれば よい。 この品質の確認は、 洗濯テストのサイズ、 収縮率で決定する。 つぎに、 本発明における編目の変形と柄との関係について、 図面を参 照し説明する。 図 1は、 本発明のホールガ一メント機編み物の平編目のループ形状を 示す平面図で、 (a ) 図は、 安定した平編目を、 (b ) 図は、 変形した平 編目を示す。 'Finally, the knitted fabric is heat-treated without substantial restraint, and the remaining twist torque is regenerated to form a finished set. The heat treatment may be a dry iron or press set in a form of less than 120 dry irons. The processing temperature and time may be appropriately set depending on the material used. Confirmation of this quality is determined by the size and shrinkage of the washing test. Next, the relationship between the deformation of the stitch and the pattern in the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 is a plan view showing a loop shape of a flat stitch of a knitted knitting machine of the present invention. FIG. 1 (a) shows a stable flat stitch, and FIG. 1 (b) shows a deformed flat stitch.
図 1 ( a ) において、 平編目 1は、 タテ方向に中心線 y _ y '、 ィか ら口までを左ル一プレダ、 口から二までをループヘッド、 二からホまで を右ループレダと呼称する。 タテ方向の高さを h、 幅を w、 糸の太さを dとする。また、ループ内の曲線 2は撚り方向および撚数を表している。 左右ル一プレダは中心線 y _ y 'を対称に同一の形状をしている。 同様 に、 ル一プヘッドも左右対称である。 糸の太さも全体に同一の太さをし ている。  In Fig. 1 (a), the flat stitch 1 is called the center line y_y 'in the vertical direction, the left looper from the mouth to the mouth, the loop head from the mouth to the head, and the loop head from the head to the right loop leader. I do. The height in the vertical direction is h, the width is w, and the thickness of the thread is d. Curve 2 in the loop indicates the twist direction and the number of twists. The left and right rudder have the same shape symmetrically about the center line y_y '. Similarly, the loop head is symmetrical. The thickness of the thread is the same throughout.
つまり、 図 1 ( a ) に示す編目は、 安定した平編目 1であり、 高さ/ 幅の比を編目比 (h /w) とすれば、 美しい形状は理論上 1 . 2 5であ るが、 実際の糸状では撚り等があるゆえ、 美しい平編目 1は 1 . 3 6に なると言われている。  In other words, the stitch shown in Fig. 1 (a) is a stable flat stitch 1, and if the height / width ratio is the stitch ratio (h / w), the beautiful shape is theoretically 1.25. However, it is said that the beautiful flat stitch 1 is 1.36 because the actual thread has twists.
これに対して、 図 1 ( b ) の変形した平編目 1 'は、 タテ方向の中心 線 y _ y 'が左下がりに傾斜していて、 左右の形状が異なり、 左ループ レグの太さ d lが細く、 右ループレダの太さ d 2が太い。 撚数 2も左ル 一プレダが多く、 右ループレダが少ない。 この結果、 左ループレダが沈 んで凹状に、 右ループレダが浮いて凸状になる。 これが変形した平編目 On the other hand, in the deformed flat stitch 1 'in Fig. 1 (b), the center line y_y' in the vertical direction is inclined to the left, the left and right shapes are different, and the thickness of the left loop leg dl Is thin and the thickness of the right loop d2 is large. Twisting number 2 also has many left-leaders and few right-loop leaders. As a result, the left loop radar sinks and becomes concave, and the right loop radar floats and becomes convex. This is a deformed flat stitch
1 'で、 捻れた編地因となる。 図 2は、 本発明の変形した平編目からなる平編地の斜行と撚り方向、 撚数の関係をモデル的に示したものである。 図 2 ( c ) は、 横編地の左 下がりを、 図 2 (d) は、 横編地の右下がりを、 図 2 (e) 図は、 撚糸 の左よりを、 図 2 ( f ) は撚糸の右よりを表したものである。 図 2 (c) において、 編地 3全体が左下がりに斜行しており、 個々の平編目 1 'も 図 1 (b) と同一方向に傾斜している。 傾斜した角度は、 タテ方向の垂 直線に対する角度を斜行角 0 ° で評価する。 一般の横編地は斜行角 0 ° が 3 ° 以内であることが、 良い横編地であると云われている。 図 2 (d) は、 図 2 (c) の逆の方向に傾斜した横編地 3 'で右下がりに斜行して おり、 個々の平編目 1 'が右下がりに傾斜している。 傾斜した角度は、 図 2 (c) と同様に夕テ方向の垂直線に対する角度をもって斜行角 S ° で評価する。 図 2 (e) において、 撚糸 4はタテにある太さを示し、 左 よりを施したことを実線で表現しており、 撚り方向は左下がりに、 撚数 は実線の本数で示している。 図上の矢印曲線は撚りが熱処理された時、 または端末を離した時に発生する旋回トルクの方向を示し、 図 2 (c) と対応している。 つまり、 図 2 (e) の左よりの追ねん糸または強撚糸 を用いた場合、 図 2 (c) の斜行した横編地 3となる。 逆に、 図 2 ( f ) の撚糸 4 'は、 図 2 (d) の横編地 3 'および変形した平編目 1 一と対 応している。 本発明では、 前記した撚係数 2 5 0 0〜 1 3 00 0の範囲で形成する 斜行角が 30 ° 以下が好ましく、 さらに 20 ° 以下が風合い、 夕ツチを 加味して、 より好ましい。 実際に 2色以上を用いたホールガーメントの 身頃および袖の斜行柄はセ一夕一の大きな柄表現ができるので好ましい 図 3は、 本発明の他の一例を示す変形した平編目の表目および裏目で 構成される境界点に凹凸柄を形成することを、 図 1 (b) で示した中心 線 y— y 'で横編み物組織図をモデル的に方眼紙に描いたものである。 図 3 (g) は、 平面柄を、 図 3 (h) は、 横境界線の編地の縦斬面凹凸 を、 および図 3 ( i ) は、 縦境界線の編地の横断面凹凸を表したもので ある。 図 3において、 図中左側縦方向に並んだ記号 C 1〜C 6は、 番地 1内 に編目の表目または裏目の連続コースで構成する単位を示している。 同 様に、 下側横方向に並んだ記号 W1〜W6も、 番地 1内に編目の表目ま たは裏目の連続ゥエールで構成する単位を示している。 また、 各番地内 に示した斜線の方向は、 前記図 1 (b) で示した斜行した中心線 y— y 'の方向に描いたものである。 例えば、 番地 1 (C l、 W 1 ) の斜線の 右下がりは、 (C l、 W1) 内の変形した編目が全編目共右下がりに斜行 していることを示している。 同様に、 右隣の番地 2 (C l、 W2) の左 下がりは、 変形した編目が全編目共左下がりに斜行していることを示し ている。 まず、 番地 1 (C l、 W 1 ) および番地 2 (C l、 W2 ) は、 それら の斜行線が示すとおり、 斜行方向が逆になつている。 番地 1 1 (C 2、 W 1 ) は番地 1 (C l、 W 1 ) と逆の斜行方向から形成され、 右隣の番 地 1 2 (C 2、 W2) は番地 1 (C 1、 W 1 ) と同一の斜行方向である。 横編地 50は、 いずれも隣り合わせた番地が左右、 上下共に斜行方向の 異なる平編目で構成している。 結果として、 図 3 (h) および図 3 ( i ) 図に示す番地の境界線に凹凸を発生する。 図 3 (h) は、 図 3 (g) 図 中の横編地 5 0の断面であって、 横断面 X— X '線が、 番地 1〜番地 6 と番地 1 1〜番地 1 6に沿った境界線であり、 変形した平編目の異なる 縦断面図である。 縦断面凹凸した箇所 1 0 1は、 番地 1、 2、 1 1およ び 1 2の交点にあり、 各番地内で個々に変形した平編目を形成した編糸 の旋回トルクが結集されてトータルエネルギーとして寄せ集った結果、 表裏のいずれかに突起となり安定化したものと、 推定される。 隣の突起 状凹凸 1 0 2は、 番地 3、 4、 1 3および 1 4の交点にある。 突起の表 裏現れる頻度は、 自然発生的でいずれか一方に存在する。 ただし、 番地 2、 3、 1 2および 1 3の交点には突起状凹凸が観察されない。図 3 ( i ) において、 図 3 ( g ) 図中の縦断面 Y— Y '線が番地 1〜 5 1と番地 2 〜 5 2とに沿った境界線であり、 変形した平編目の異なる横断面図であ る。 横断面凹凸した箇所 1 3 1は、 番地 2 1、 2 2、 3 1および 3 2の 交点にある。 図 3 ( h ) と同様に、 番地 1 1、 1 2、 2 1および 2 2の 交点には突起状凹凸が観察されない。 つまり、 左右、 上下共に斜行方向 の異なる平編目で同数のゥエール、 コース編目で各番地が構成されてい ても、 用いた紡績糸における元撚り、 追撚数、 撚り方向、 表目および裏 目の組み合わせ等によって、 番地毎の編糸の旋回トルクの大きさ、 方向 に微妙に差違があるために、 必ずしも隣同士に発生しないものと、 推定 される。 本発明は、 単に斜行する横編地でなく、 ポリ乳酸繊維の沸水収縮率の 大きさおよび変動、 表目および裏目、 低温セット性等を活かして適用し たことおよびパール編またはイン夕一シャ組織等を駆使することによつ て、 絞染調の突起柄を得ることができる。 図 4は、 本発明の他の一例である平面図である。 同図において、 横編 地 6 0は、 数 1 0ゥエール単位の大きさ A、 B、 Cに変形した平編目の 表目または裏目を交互に配列し、 編コースを数コースのブロック C 1〜 C 9と連続して、 変形した平編目の表目または裏目を編成した後、 プロ ック毎に逆の編目に切り替えることによって、 その切り替え部分が変形 した平編目で斜行柄を構成させ、 ジグザグ調のタテ線柄 (振り止め柄) を得ることができる。例えば、 ブロック C 1の柄 1 (C 1、 A) を表目、 柄 2 (C l、 B) を裏目および柄 3 (C l、 C) を表目で数コースを編 成して、 次いで、 ブロック C 2の柄 1 (C 2、 A) を裏目、 柄 2 (C 2、 B) を表目および柄 3 (C 2、 C) を裏目で数コースを編成する。 これ らを任意に繰り返すことによって、 配色を組み合わせて矢鉼柄を得るこ とが可能である。 次に、 本発明の実施例について説明する。 1 'causes twisted knitted fabric. FIG. 2 schematically shows the relationship between the skew, the direction of twist, and the number of twists of a flat knitted fabric comprising the deformed flat stitches of the present invention. Fig. 2 (c) shows the left side of the flat knitted fabric. Figure 2 (d) shows the weft knitted fabric to the right, Figure 2 (e) shows the twisted yarn from the left, and Figure 2 (f) shows the twisted yarn from the right. In FIG. 2 (c), the entire knitted fabric 3 is skewed to the left and the individual flat stitches 1 ′ are also skewed in the same direction as in FIG. 1 (b). For the angle of inclination, the angle to the vertical in the vertical direction is evaluated at an oblique angle of 0 °. It is said that a general flat knitted fabric is a good flat knitted fabric with a skew angle of 0 ° within 3 °. In FIG. 2 (d), the flat knitted fabric 3 'inclined in the opposite direction to that of FIG. 2 (c) is skewed downward to the right, and the individual flat stitches 1' are inclined downward to the right. The angle of inclination is evaluated as the skew angle S ° with the angle to the vertical line in the evening direction, as in Fig. 2 (c). In FIG. 2 (e), the twisted yarn 4 shows the thickness in the vertical direction, and the fact that the twisting is performed from the left is represented by a solid line. The twisting direction is shown at the lower left, and the number of twists is shown by the number of solid lines. The arrow curve in the figure shows the direction of the turning torque generated when the twist is heat-treated or when the terminal is released, and corresponds to Fig. 2 (c). In other words, when the twisting yarn or the high twist yarn from the left in Fig. 2 (e) is used, the skewed flat knitted fabric 3 in Fig. 2 (c) is obtained. Conversely, the twisted yarn 4 ′ in FIG. 2 (f) corresponds to the flat knitted fabric 3 ′ and the deformed flat stitch 11 in FIG. 2 (d). In the present invention, the skew angle formed in the above-mentioned twist coefficient range of 250 to 1300 is preferably 30 ° or less, more preferably 20 ° or less, and more preferably in consideration of the texture and sunset. Actually, the slant pattern of the body and the sleeve of the whole garment using two or more colors is preferable because it is possible to express a large pattern every day. FIG. 3 is a modified flat stitch showing another example of the present invention. The formation of an uneven pattern at the boundary point composed of the back stitch and the back knitting is shown by plotting a weaving knitting structure diagram on a grid paper as a model along the center line y-y 'shown in Fig. 1 (b). Fig. 3 (g) shows the plane pattern, Fig. 3 (h) shows the vertical cross section of the knitted fabric with the horizontal border, and Fig. 3 (i) shows the horizontal cross section of the knitted fabric with the vertical border. It is a representation. In FIG. 3, symbols C 1 to C 6 arranged in the vertical direction on the left side of the figure indicate units formed in the address 1 by a continuous course of the front or back stitch of the stitch. Similarly, the symbols W1 to W6 arranged in the horizontal direction on the lower side also indicate a unit composed of a continuous ale of the front or back stitch of the stitch in the address 1. The direction of the oblique line shown in each address is drawn in the direction of the oblique center line y-y 'shown in FIG. 1 (b). For example, the diagonal line to the right of the diagonal line at address 1 (C1, W1) indicates that the deformed stitches in (C1, W1) are skewed diagonally to the right for all the stitches. Similarly, the downward descent of the address 2 (Cl, W2) on the right side indicates that the deformed stitch is skewed to the left in all stitches. First, at address 1 (Cl, W1) and address 2 (Cl, W2), the skew direction is reversed, as indicated by the skew lines. Address 1 1 (C 2, W 1) is formed in the opposite diagonal direction to address 1 (Cl, W 1), and address 1 2 (C 2, W 2) on the right is address 1 (C 1, W 1). It is the same skew direction as W 1). The flat knitted fabric 50 is composed of flat stitches in which the addresses adjacent to each other are different in the oblique direction both left and right and up and down. As a result, irregularities occur at the boundaries of the addresses shown in FIGS. 3 (h) and 3 (i). Fig. 3 (h) is a cross section of the flat knitted fabric 50 in Fig. 3 (g), and the cross section X--X 'line is along the addresses 1 to 6 and 11 to 16. FIG. 7 is a vertical cross-sectional view showing a deformed flat stitch, which is a boundary line that has changed. The uneven portion 10 1 at the longitudinal section is located at the intersection of addresses 1, 2, 11, and 12, and the knitting yarn that has formed a flat stitch that is individually deformed in each address It is presumed that the turning torques were combined and collected as total energy, resulting in protrusions on either side and stabilized. The adjacent projection-like unevenness 102 is at the intersection of addresses 3, 4, 13, and 14. The frequency of the appearance of the protrusions is spontaneous and exists only on one side. However, no projecting irregularities are observed at the intersections of addresses 2, 3, 12, and 13. In Fig. 3 (i), the vertical section Y-Y 'in Fig. 3 (g) is the boundary line along addresses 1 to 51 and addresses 2 to 52, and the different cross sections of the deformed flat stitch FIG. The section 13 1 with the uneven cross section is located at the intersection of addresses 21, 22, 31 and 32. As in FIG. 3 (h), no protrusions and depressions are observed at the intersections of addresses 11, 12, 21 and 22. In other words, even if each address is composed of the same number of ailes and courses in flat stitches that are skewed in the left, right, up, and down directions, the original twist, number of twists, twist direction, face and back of the spun yarn used It is presumed that due to a slight difference in the magnitude and direction of the knitting torque of the knitting yarn for each address due to the combination of the above, it does not necessarily occur adjacent to each other. The present invention is not simply a skewed flat knitted fabric, but is applied by taking advantage of the magnitude and variation of the boiling water shrinkage of the polylactic acid fiber, the surface and back stitches, the low-temperature setting property, and the like. By making full use of a sha tissue or the like, a stencil-like projection can be obtained. FIG. 4 is a plan view showing another example of the present invention. In the same figure, the flat knitted fabric 60 is formed by alternately arranging the front or back stitches of the flat stitches transformed into the size A, B, and C in units of 10 ゥ ales, and the knitting course is divided into blocks C 1 to C of several courses. After knitting the front or back stitch of the deformed flat stitch in succession to C9, switching to the reverse stitch for each block will deform the switching part The slant pattern can be composed of the flat stitches, and a zigzag vertical line pattern (swing pattern) can be obtained. For example, pattern 1 of block C 1 (C 1, A) is the top surface, pattern 2 (C 1, B) is the back line, and pattern 3 (C 1, C) is the top surface. A few courses will be organized with handle 1 of block C2 (C2, A) as the backslash, handle 2 (C2, B) as the face and handle 3 (C2, C) as the backlash. By repeating these arbitrarily, it is possible to obtain an arrow pattern by combining the color schemes. Next, examples of the present invention will be described.
(実施例 1) (Example 1)
ポリ乳酸繊維ステ一プル (2. 2 d t e X X 5 1 mm) からなる太さ 7 2. 5ゲレン/ 3 0 y dの粗糸で、 通常のリング精紡機を使用し、 ブ レーキドラフトを 1. 6倍、 編糸用に 1インチ当りの撚係数を 3. 2 5 の Z撚り、 トータルドラフトを 1 4. 9倍に設定し、 番手 3 0 ' s (E,C,C) の紡績条件で紡績した編糸 (カネボウ繊維株式会社製、 商品 名 「ラクトロン」 紡績糸) を用いた。 この編糸の撚係数 (K) は 9 9 9 0であった。また、ウースター測定器(計測器㈱製)による太さ斑(U%) は、 1 3. 1 %であった。 また、 前記方法により測定した沸水収縮率は 1 1 %であった。 前記編糸を、 分散染料にて、 生成色と中色(グレー) でチーズ染色(9 0°CX45分) した。次いで、全自動横編み機 1 2ゲージ(島精機社製、 SWGXタイプ) にて婦人セーター企画 Mサイズ、 平編組織で 3 0 ' s X 2 p使いの精密度並み条件で、 配色が裾からバストまでをグレーに、 その後生成糸に切り替えてホ一ルガ一メントを編成した。 その結果、 キ ャリッジ速度 2 5往復/分で編成時のコ一ンからの立ち上がりは若干ピ リつく程度で問題なく、 両耳でのスジ立ち欠点等も発生せず編成した。 最終セットは 1 20〜1 3 0°Cの当て布のドライアイロンで仕上げた。 製品は重量 1 9 0〜士 5 gZ枚、 斜行角 (Θ) 14〜: 1 6 ° であり、 袖 は勿論、 前 ·後身頃に亘る斜行柄を形成して、 風合いソフト感のあるセ 一夕一を得ることができた。 Polylactic acid fiber staple (2.2 dte XX 51 mm) with a thickness of 72.5 gelle / 30 yd roving, using a normal ring spinning machine to breakbreak draft 1.6 For the double and knitting yarns, set the twist factor per inch to 3.25 Z-twisting, set the total draft to 14.9 times, and spin at 30's (E, C, C) spinning conditions. Knitted yarn (manufactured by Kanebo Fibers Co., Ltd., trade name "Lactron" spun yarn). The twist coefficient (K) of this knitting yarn was 990. The thickness unevenness (U%) of the Wooster measuring device (manufactured by Measuring Instruments Co., Ltd.) was 13.1%. The boiling water shrinkage measured by the above method was 11%. The knitting yarn was dyed with a disperse dye in a produced color and a medium color (gray) in cheese (90 ° C. for 45 minutes). Next, using a fully automatic weft knitting machine 12 gauge (manufactured by Shima Seiki Co., Ltd., SWGX type), a women's sweater is planned. Up to grey, then switched to the produced yarn to knit the hole garment. As a result, At a carriage speed of 25 reciprocations / minute, the knitting from the knitting at the time of knitting was a little sticky, and there was no problem. The final set was finished with a dry iron at 120-130 ° C. The product weighs 190 to 5 gZ, skew angle (Θ) 14 to: 16 °, and forms a sloping pattern that extends over the front and back, as well as the sleeves, giving a soft texture. I got one night.
(実施例 2) (Example 2)
ポリ乳酸繊維ステ一プル(2. 2 d t e X 76 mm)を 2 5重量%、 ポリ乳酸繊維ステーブル (3. 3 d t e X X 76 mm) を 3 0重量%ぉ よびウール (3〜5 d t e xX 8 3mm、 平均繊維長) 45重量%から なる混紡率で、 通常の梳毛紡績方式 (3 '紡) を使用し、 精紡機の撚数 3 0 5回/ Mの Z撚り、 紡出番手 32/1 (前記 「ラクトロン」 とウー ル混紡糸) を用いた。 この混紡糸の撚係数 (K) は 5 3 6 5であった。 また、 ウース夕一測定器 (計測器㈱製) による太さ斑 (U%) は、 1 2. 5 %であった。 また、 前記方法により測定した沸水収縮率は 1 0. 8 % であった。 また、 仕上げ工程では、 3 2Z2の合撚数は元よりの 8 2 % で S撚り、 撚り止めセット 6 5°CX 20分間で処理した。 さらに、 実施 例 1と同様にチーズ染色した。 次いで、 前記混合紡糸を用い、 実施例 1で使用した全自動横編み機に より、 婦人セーター 2点として、 前記図 3の絞り染調の突起柄および図 4の矢鉼柄を以下のようにして作製した。 実際の横編地設計は、 図 3で は番地を構成するゥエール数 2 0 (単位; 目と表示) およびコース数 2 4 (段) に設定し、 表目および裏目を交互に配置して、 配色をベージュ 色とグレー色の 2種類編成した。 図 4では、 ブロック柄 1 (C 1 ; コ一 ス数 8段、 A ;ゥエール数 1 0 0目、以下同一表示)、柄 2 (C 2; 8段、 B ; 45目)、 柄 3 (C 3 ; 5段、 B ; 7 5目) および柄 4 (C 4 ; 1 2 段、 D ; 3 0目) を全建針本数 (前 ·後身頃および袖部) に順次設定し、 変形した平編目の表目 (ここでは、 柄 1および柄 3) および裏目 (柄 2 および柄 4) とした。 最終の柄崩れ部は CAD上でデザイン修正した。 配色は図 3と同一の 2種類編成した。 最終セットは、 金網の上に載せた 状態で 8 0°CX 30分間ドライ乾燥した。 得られたセーターの各々には、 特徴ある柄を表現していて、 図 3の図 柄のセ一夕一 2種類は、 共に絞り染調の約 5〜 1 0mmの突起柄を出現 している。 また、 2色使いでは市松柄に加えて自然な凹凸状のセーター を得ることができた。 図 4の図柄のセーター 2種類は、 ジグザグ調の夕 テ線がくつきりと浮かんだ。 また、 2色使いではョコ方向のブロックの パターンが相互に異なる矢鉼柄を構成して雅趣に富んだもので、 表目と 裏目の僅かな凹凸状のセーターを得ることができた。 産業上の利用可能性 25% by weight of polylactic acid fiber staple (2.2 dte X 76 mm), 30% by weight of polylactic acid fiber stable (3.3 dte XX 76 mm) mm and wool (3 to 5 dte xX 8 mm) Using a standard worsted spinning method (3 'spinning) with a blending ratio of 45% by weight (3mm, average fiber length), the number of twists of the spinning machine is 30 times / M. Z twisting, spinning speed 32/1 (Lactron and Wool blended yarn). The twist coefficient (K) of this blended yarn was 5365. The unevenness of thickness (U%) measured by Woice Yuichi Measuring Instrument (manufactured by Keisokuki Co., Ltd.) was 12.5%. Further, the boiling water shrinkage measured by the above method was 10.8%. In the finishing process, the twist ratio of 32Z2 was S-twisted at 82% of the original twist, and the twist was stopped at 65 ° C for 20 minutes. Further, the cheese was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1. Then, using the above-mentioned mixed spinning, by the fully automatic flat knitting machine used in Example 1, as two women's sweaters, the tie-dyeing projection pattern of FIG. 3 and the arrow pattern of FIG. Produced. In the actual flat knitted fabric design, in Fig. 3, the number of ales constituting the address is set to 20 ales (units: displayed as eyes) and 24 courses (tiers), and the front and back stitches are arranged alternately. Two color schemes are available: beige and gray. In FIG. 4, the block pattern 1 (C 1; 8 rows, A; ゥ Ale number 100 rows, same display below), Pattern 2 (C 2; 8 rows, B; 45 rows), Pattern 3 (C 3; 5 rows, B; 75 rows) and Pattern 4 (C4; 12th row, D; 30th) is sequentially set for the total number of needles (front, back, and sleeves), and the deformed flat stitch surface (here, pattern 1 and pattern) 3) and back side (pattern 2 and pattern 4). The design of the final pattern collapse part was modified on CAD. The color scheme was the same as that shown in Fig. 3. The final set was dried on a wire mesh at 80 ° C for 30 minutes. Each of the obtained sweaters expresses a characteristic pattern, and the two types of patterns shown in Fig. 3 each have a squeezing tone of about 5 to 10 mm. . In addition, with two colors, a natural uneven sweater was obtained in addition to the checkered pattern. In the two types of sweaters in the pattern shown in Fig. 4, the zigzag-shaped evening lines were sticking out. Also, with the two colors, the pattern of the blocks in the horizontal direction is different from each other, and the patterns are rich in elegance, and it is possible to obtain a sweater with slight unevenness on the front and back sides. Industrial applicability
以上のように、 本発明の編物は、 前記特定の編糸の収縮特性に起因す る変形した編目により、 自然でかつ個性化し得る不規則な凹凸状、 斜行 等の様々なデザインモチーフを表現することができる。 このようなデザ ィンの編物は、 消費者の自然嗜好および個性化志向の強まりに十分対応 し得るものである。 したがって、 本発明の編物を衣服に適用すれば、 例 えば、 各種のアウターウエアあるいはインナーウェァ等において、 着用 時に、 体型に合わせて弹カ的に変形してフィットするとともに、 長い間 着用していたり、 繰り返し着用したりしても、 凹凸が消えたり、 変形し たままになったりすることはなく、 長期間にわたって、 良好な外観意匠 を表現することができる。 従来の天然繊維を用いた編物では、 "しわ"や "凹凸" などのデザインモチーフに十分な耐久性がなく、 収縮してサイ ズに変化がおこるおそれがあつたが、 本発明では、 そのような心配もな く、 優れた品質を長期間維持できる。 As described above, the knitted fabric of the present invention expresses various design motifs such as irregular irregularities and skew that can be naturalized and individualized by deformed stitches caused by the shrinkage characteristics of the specific knitting yarn. can do. Such a knitted design can sufficiently respond to the consumer's growing preference for natural preference and individualization. Therefore, if the knitted fabric of the present invention is applied to clothing, for example, various outerwears or innerwears, when worn, will be deformed and fitted in accordance with the body shape and worn for a long time. It does not disappear or remain deformed even if worn repeatedly, and has a good appearance over a long period of time Can be expressed. In conventional knitted fabrics using natural fibers, design motifs such as "wrinkles" and "irregularities" are not sufficiently durable, and may shrink and change in size. Excellent quality can be maintained for a long time without any worries.

Claims

請求の範囲 The scope of the claims
1. ポリ乳酸繊維を有する編糸を含む編物であって、 前記編糸の収縮 に起因する編目の変形を有する編物。 1. A knitted fabric including a knitting yarn having a polylactic acid fiber, the knitted fabric having a stitch deformation caused by shrinkage of the knitting yarn.
2. ウースター測定器で測定した U%が土 3以上の太さ斑を有する繊 維を有し、 沸水収縮率が 5〜 1 5 %の範囲であり、 かつ撚係数 (K) が 2 5 0 0〜 1 3000である編糸を含む編物であって、 前記編糸の収縮 に起因する編目の変形を有する編物。  2. U% measured with a Wooster measuring instrument has fibers with a thickness irregularity of 3 or more in soil, boiling water shrinkage in the range of 5 to 15%, and twist coefficient (K) of 250 A knitted fabric including a knitting yarn having a size of 0 to 13000, the knitted fabric having a stitch deformation caused by shrinkage of the knitting yarn.
3. 収縮する編糸が、 ポリ乳酸繊維を含む請求項 2記載の編物。  3. The knitted fabric according to claim 2, wherein the shrinking knitting yarn includes a polylactic acid fiber.
4. ポリ乳酸繊維の含有率が 5 1重量%以上である請求項 3記載の編 物。  4. The knitted fabric according to claim 3, wherein the content of the polylactic acid fiber is 51% by weight or more.
5. 変形した編目が、斜めに傾いた平編目である請求項 1記載の編物。 5. The knit according to claim 1, wherein the deformed stitch is an obliquely flat stitch.
6. 先染糸の配色柄が表目若しくは裏目の少なくとも一方を構成する ことにより、 斜行柄、 振り止め柄若しくは凸状の寄せ柄が形成されてい る請求項 5記載の編物。 6. The knitted fabric according to claim 5, wherein the skewed pattern, the anti-swing pattern, or the convex approach pattern is formed by the color pattern of the yarn-dyed yarn constituting at least one of the front surface and the back surface.
7. 変形した編目により凹凸が生じている請求項 1記載の編物。  7. The knit according to claim 1, wherein irregularities are caused by the deformed stitches.
8. その形態が衣服である請求項 1記載の編物。  8. The knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the form is clothing.
9. ポリ乳酸繊維を含む編糸を編むことにより編物を製造する製造方 法であって、 前記編糸が収縮する温度で過熱処理すること工程を含むこ とにより、 編目の変形を生じさせる製造方法。  9. A production method for producing a knit by knitting a knitting yarn containing polylactic acid fiber, comprising a step of performing a superheat treatment at a temperature at which the knitting yarn contracts, thereby producing a deformation of a stitch. Method.
1 0. ウースター測定器で測定した U%が ± 3以上の太さ斑を有する 繊維を有し、 沸水収縮率が 5〜 1 5 %の範囲であり、 かつ撚係数 (K) が 2 5 0 0〜 1 30 0 0である編糸を編むことにより編物を製造する製 造方法であって、 前記編糸が収縮する温度で加熱処理する工程を含むこ とにより、 編目の変形を生じさせる製造方法。  10. U% measured with a Wooster measuring instrument has fibers with a thickness unevenness of ± 3 or more, boiling water shrinkage is in the range of 5 to 15%, and twist coefficient (K) is 250 A method for producing a knit by knitting a knitting yarn of 0 to 1300, which comprises a step of performing a heat treatment at a temperature at which the knitting yarn shrinks, thereby producing a deformation of a stitch. Method.
1 1. 編糸がポリ乳酸繊維を含む請求項 1 0記載の製造方法。 11. The method according to claim 10, wherein the knitting yarn contains a polylactic acid fiber.
1 2 . 前記編糸におけるポリ乳酸繊維の含有率が 5 1 %以上である請 求項 1 1記載の製造方法。 12. The method according to claim 11, wherein the content of the polylactic acid fiber in the knitting yarn is 51% or more.
1 3 . 加熱処理が、 編む前に前記編糸に対して行われる請求項 9記載 の製造方法。  13. The method according to claim 9, wherein the heat treatment is performed on the knitting yarn before knitting.
1 4 . 加熱処理が、 先染工程であり、 加熱処理された編糸が先染糸で ある請求項 1 3記載の製造方法。 14. The method according to claim 13, wherein the heat treatment is a pre-dying step, and the heat-treated knitted yarn is a pre-dyed yarn.
1 5 . 前記編物の編み方が、 先染糸の配色柄が表目および裏目の少な くとも一方を構成するように編み上げる平編であり、 この編み方によつ て変形した編目が生じて斜行柄、 振り止め柄若しくは凸状の絞り柄を出 す請求項 1 4記載の製造方法。  15 5. The knitting of the knitted fabric is a flat knitting in which the color pattern of the yarn-dyed yarn constitutes at least one of the face and the back of the knitted fabric. 15. The method according to claim 14, wherein an oblique pattern, a swing pattern or a convex drawing pattern is produced.
1 6 . 先染糸を用い、 前後に 1列針を要する平型横編機または小寸の 両頭針を利用した丸編機によってホールガーメントを形成し、 このホー ルガ一メント形成と同時にまたは別個に他の部材若しくは付属部材を形 成し、 これら部材をホ一ルガーメントに縫製することにより前記編物を 製造する請求項 1 5記載の製造方法。  16. Whole garments are formed by a flat type flat knitting machine that requires a single row of needles before and after using a yarn-dyed yarn or a circular knitting machine that uses a small double-ended needle, and simultaneously or separately with the formation of this hole garment 16. The manufacturing method according to claim 15, wherein another member or an accessory member is formed, and the member is sewn to a hole garment to manufacture the knit.
1 7 . 編物を製造した後、 加熱することにより編目を変形させる工程 を含む請求項 9記載の製造方法。  17. The method according to claim 9, further comprising the step of heating the knitted fabric to deform the stitches by heating.
PCT/JP2003/002179 2002-02-28 2003-02-27 Knit fabric and process for producing the same WO2003072864A1 (en)

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