WO2002043672A1 - Feinteilige emulsionen - Google Patents
Feinteilige emulsionen Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2002043672A1 WO2002043672A1 PCT/EP2001/013482 EP0113482W WO0243672A1 WO 2002043672 A1 WO2002043672 A1 WO 2002043672A1 EP 0113482 W EP0113482 W EP 0113482W WO 0243672 A1 WO0243672 A1 WO 0243672A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- alcohols
- fatty
- acid
- esters
- branched
- Prior art date
Links
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- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- HBPNTDBLHQHPLH-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecyl 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C HBPNTDBLHQHPLH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- AVKVDDQTHIQFSC-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecyl docosanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCC AVKVDDQTHIQFSC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- DHZWALZKPWZSMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecyl oleate Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC DHZWALZKPWZSMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- DZKXJUASMGQEMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecyl tetradecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCC DZKXJUASMGQEMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960002663 thioctic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019303 thiodipropionic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000003573 thiols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229940094937 thioredoxin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 108060008226 thioredoxin Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 239000001585 thymus vulgaris Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000002640 tocopherol group Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000019149 tocopherols Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- RUVINXPYWBROJD-ONEGZZNKSA-N trans-anethole Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(\C=C\C)C=C1 RUVINXPYWBROJD-ONEGZZNKSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LDHQCZJRKDOVOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-crotonic acid Natural products CC=CC(O)=O LDHQCZJRKDOVOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- BJIOGJUNALELMI-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-isoeugenol Natural products COC1=CC(C=CC)=CC=C1O BJIOGJUNALELMI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QURCVMIEKCOAJU-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-isoferulic acid Natural products COC1=CC=C(C=CC(O)=O)C=C1O QURCVMIEKCOAJU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ZCIHMQAPACOQHT-ZGMPDRQDSA-N trans-isorenieratene Natural products CC(=C/C=C/C=C(C)/C=C/C=C(C)/C=C/c1c(C)ccc(C)c1C)C=CC=C(/C)C=Cc2c(C)ccc(C)c2C ZCIHMQAPACOQHT-ZGMPDRQDSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LOIYMIARKYCTBW-OWOJBTEDSA-N trans-urocanic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)\C=C\C1=CNC=N1 LOIYMIARKYCTBW-OWOJBTEDSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LOIYMIARKYCTBW-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-urocanic acid Natural products OC(=O)C=CC1=CNC=N1 LOIYMIARKYCTBW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000003918 triazines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000001960 triggered effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000013638 trimer Substances 0.000 description 1
- OEIXGLMQZVLOQX-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-[3-(prop-2-enoylamino)propyl]azanium;chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].C[N+](C)(C)CCCNC(=O)C=C OEIXGLMQZVLOQX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QXJQHYBHAIHNGG-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethylolethane Chemical compound OCC(C)(CO)CO QXJQHYBHAIHNGG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940040064 ubiquinol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- QNTNKSLOFHEFPK-UPTCCGCDSA-N ubiquinol-10 Chemical compound COC1=C(O)C(C)=C(C\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CCC=C(C)C)C(O)=C1OC QNTNKSLOFHEFPK-UPTCCGCDSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940035936 ubiquinone Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000021122 unsaturated fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000004670 unsaturated fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- WXETUDXXEZHSCS-MAVITOTKSA-N vertofix coeur Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(C(/CC3)=C\C(C)=O)[C@@H]3C(C)(C)[C@@H]1C2 WXETUDXXEZHSCS-MAVITOTKSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000010679 vetiver oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002554 vinyl polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229940088594 vitamin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019155 vitamin A Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011719 vitamin A Substances 0.000 description 1
- NCYCYZXNIZJOKI-UHFFFAOYSA-N vitamin A aldehyde Natural products O=CC=C(C)C=CC=C(C)C=CC1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C NCYCYZXNIZJOKI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940045997 vitamin a Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229920003169 water-soluble polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000002023 wood Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001285 xanthan gum Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000230 xanthan gum Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010493 xanthan gum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940082509 xanthan gum Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000011701 zinc Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052725 zinc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229910052726 zirconium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000002888 zwitterionic surfactant Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/86—Polyethers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- C09K—MATERIALS FOR MISCELLANEOUS APPLICATIONS, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE
- C09K23/00—Use of substances as emulsifying, wetting, dispersing, or foam-producing agents
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- C09K—MATERIALS FOR MISCELLANEOUS APPLICATIONS, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE
- C09K23/00—Use of substances as emulsifying, wetting, dispersing, or foam-producing agents
- C09K23/017—Mixtures of compounds
- C09K23/018—Mixtures of two or more different organic oxygen-containing compounds
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- C09K—MATERIALS FOR MISCELLANEOUS APPLICATIONS, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE
- C09K23/00—Use of substances as emulsifying, wetting, dispersing, or foam-producing agents
- C09K23/14—Derivatives of phosphoric acid
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- C09K—MATERIALS FOR MISCELLANEOUS APPLICATIONS, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE
- C09K23/00—Use of substances as emulsifying, wetting, dispersing, or foam-producing agents
- C09K23/54—Silicon compounds
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K9/00—Medicinal preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K9/10—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K9/107—Emulsions ; Emulsion preconcentrates; Micelles
- A61K9/1075—Microemulsions or submicron emulsions; Preconcentrates or solids thereof; Micelles, e.g. made of phospholipids or block copolymers
Definitions
- Fine-particle emulsions Fine-particle emulsions
- the invention relates to a process for the production of emulsions of a certain particle size by high pressure homogenization and the use of these emulsions in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations.
- Emulsions with small particle sizes are becoming increasingly important in their use in cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations due to their excellent application properties, since phase-stable systems are also available at the lowest viscosities of ⁇ 10 mPas.
- emulsifier is decisive for the emulsions known from the prior art with small particle or droplet sizes. Finely divided, stable emulsions can currently only be obtained using the phase inversion method, only emulsifier structures containing ethylene oxide being used.
- the object of the present invention was therefore to provide finely divided emulsions which can be prepared regardless of the choice of emulsifier and, moreover, are particularly phase-stable and low-viscosity and do not have to be prepared by the phase inversion method.
- the present invention relates to a process for the preparation of emulsions with a particle size of 0.1 to 5 ⁇ m, in which oil bodies with a polarity of at most 5 Debye are mixed with emulsifiers and water and then homogenized under pressure.
- the invention further relates to the use of emulsions with a particle size of 0.1 to 5 ⁇ m, in which organic bodies with a polarity of at most 5 Debye are mixed with emulsifiers and water and then homogenized under pressure, in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations.
- low-viscosity emulsions can be produced which are phase-stable and particularly fine when oil bodies of a certain polarity are subjected to high-pressure homogenization with emulsifiers and water.
- the invention includes the finding that such finely divided emulsions can be obtained regardless of the emulsifier structure used. It is particularly advantageous that, in contrast to phase inversion technology, no emulsifiers containing ethylene oxide are absolutely necessary in order to obtain particularly finely divided emulsions.
- the oil bodies to be emulsified are characterized in the present invention in that they have a polarity below 5 debye, preferably 1, 3 to 4.5 debye and in particular 2.5 to 4 debye.
- the dipole moment of the substances in question can, for example, be based on the formula by Onsager [cf. Seifen- ⁇ le-Fette-Wachsen, 115, 459-61 (1989)] can be calculated, whereby the required material criteria, such as refraction and molecular weight, are known from the literature or can be determined with the usual physical / chemical measuring methods.
- Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols or esters of branched C6-Ci3-carboxylic acids are examples of oil bodies according to the invention with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, such as myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stylate stearate, cetyl stylate stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate stearyl stearate, Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, stearyl
- esters of linear C6-C 2 fatty acids with branched alcohols in particular 2-ethylhexanol
- esters of C18-C38 alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols in particular diocyl malates
- esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol
- triglycerides based on C6-C10 fatty acids liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C6-Ci8 fatty acids
- esters of C6-C22- Fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids especially benzoic acid, esters of C2-Ci2-dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atom
- the oil bodies according to the invention can be present in the process described in amounts of 1 to 70, preferably 10 to 50 and in particular 15 to 30% by weight, based on the final composition.
- Suitable emulsifiers or dispersants for the purposes of the invention are those which, in combination with the oils of defined polarity previously characterized, occupy the phase interfaces particularly quickly:
- Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) as well as polyglucosides saturated (e.g. cellulose) unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;
- Protein fatty acid condensates preferably based on wheat protein
- Block copolymers e.g. Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate;
- Polymer emulsifiers e.g. Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich;
- Particularly preferred emulsifiers are e.g. B. Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol (e.g. Abil EM-90), Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (e.g. Dehymuls PGPH), Polyglycerin-3-Diisostearate (e.g. Lameform TGI), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (e.g. Isolan Gl 34), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleates, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 diisostearates (e.g. Isolan PDI), polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate (e.g.
- B. Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol e.g. Abil EM-90
- Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate e.g. Dehymuls PGPH
- Polyglycerin-3-Diisostearate e.g. Lam
- polyglyceryl-3 beeswax e.g. Gera Bellina
- polyglyceryl-4 caprates e.g. polyglycerol caprates T2010 / 90
- Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether e.g. Chimexane NL
- Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate e.g. Cremophor GS 32
- Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate e.g. Admul WOL 1403
- Glyceryl Oleate e.g. Monomuls 90-O 18
- alkyl Glucoside e.g.
- a particularly effective mixture consists of polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate and lauryl glucoside and glycerin (e.g. Eumulgin VL 75).
- the emulsifiers according to the invention can be present in the process described in amounts of 0.1 to 20, preferably 1 to 10 and in particular 3 to 7% by weight, based on the preparations. Hochlichhomogenisierunq
- Homogenization in emulsification technology means the very fine grinding of the disperse phase of a raw emulsion.
- the droplet size spectrum of the raw emulsion shifts significantly towards smaller drops.
- the droplet size reduction creates new phase boundaries, which must be quickly occupied by the emulsifier molecules, since the newly formed drop is better stabilized and can be comminuted more easily due to the low interfacial tension.
- a special form of homogenization is high pressure homogenization. Here the droplets are crushed by the input of mechanical energy in the form of a differential pressure and new phase interfaces are created quickly and in large numbers.
- the pressure ranges necessary or preferred for high-pressure homogenization depend on the type of homogenizing valve used or the homogenizing nozzle.
- the emulsions according to the invention are preferably homogenized by means of radial diffusers or counter-jet dispersers as homogenizing nozzles or micromixers.
- radial diffusers As a homogenizing valve (such as flat, serrated or knife edge nozzles), pressures from 100 to 1500 bar, preferably 200 to 800 bar and in particular 400 to 600 bar.
- Usual pressures when using counter-jet dispersers (jet dispersers, microfluidizers) as homogenizing nozzles are between 10 and 100 bar. In this case, the pressure range is preferably between 20 and 60 bar.
- micromixer When producing emulsions using micromixers, a pressure range from 2 to 30, preferably from 5 to 20, bar is customary.
- the micromixer used (manufacturer Institute for Microsystems Technology Mainz, IMM) is a "static mixer" with a channel width of 25 ⁇ . Due to the narrow channels, two liquid phases are mixed by diffusion. Micromixers have the advantage of producing particularly fine and narrow particle size distributions at low pressures.
- a pre-emulsion can be produced in a stirred tank, which is then homogenized by dispersion in a so-called one-time passage using a rotor / stator homogenizer and then a high-pressure homogenizer.
- One-time passage is to be understood here as a procedure in which the entire contents of a container are passed through the homogenizer once another container is being driven. In contrast to the so-called cycle mode, this ensures that each liquid element has passed the homogenizer once. There are no coarse emulsion droplets left which can form the starting point for the breakdown of the emulsion.
- Rotor-stator systems can be devices such as toothed colloid mills or machines which consist of one or more rotors and stators with through openings in the form of slots or cylindrical or rectangular holes, such as e.g. Cavitron, Supraton, Siefer, Bran + Lübbe, IKA, Ltda, Silverson etc.
- the advantage of high-pressure homogenization is that small droplets with a very narrow distribution are very easily formed, which is advantageous if low-viscosity emulsions are to be produced in a phase-stable manner. Due to the application-related advantages of emulsions produced by high-pressure homogenization, attempts are increasingly being made to use such homogenizing techniques in the cosmetic industry. Due to the fact that a new interface is formed particularly quickly, high demands must be placed on the emulsifier and carrier phase, since the emulsifiers have to occupy the interface spontaneously and very quickly in order to ensure optimum phase stability.
- a preferred emulsion has the following composition:
- the method according to the invention and particle sizes of 0.1 to 5, preferably 1, 4 to 4 and in particular 1.8 to 3 microns are obtained.
- a diffraction pattern is determined by means of laser diffraction.
- the particle size distribution is then calculated from the light intensities of these diffraction patterns using the Frauhofer theory using EDP.
- emulsions can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, UV light protection filters, mild surfactants, pearlescent waxes, consistency enhancers, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic active ingredients, antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, Antidandruff agents, swelling agents, insect repellents, self-tanners, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmentation agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like.
- UV light protection filters mild surfactants, pearlescent waxes, consistency enhancers, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic active ingredients, antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, Antidandruff agents, swelling agents, insect repellents, self-tanners, t
- UV light protection filters
- UV light protection factors are to be understood, for example, as organic or liquid substances (light protection filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and release the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat.
- UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Examples of oil-soluble substances are:
- 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 2-ethyl-hexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;
- esters of cinnamic acid preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate (oc-tocrylene);
- esters of salicylic acid preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-iso-propylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;
- benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
- esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester;
- Triazine derivatives such as 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2 , -ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and octyl triazone, as described in EP 0818450 A1 or Dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb® HEB);
- benzoylmethane such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl
- benzoylmethane such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl
- typical UV-A filters -4'-methoxydibenzoyl-methane Parsol® 1789
- 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and enamine compounds as described in DE 19712033 A1 (BASF).
- the UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures.
- Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoylmethane, e.g.
- insoluble light protection pigments namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts
- suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof.
- Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts.
- the oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics.
- the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm.
- the pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobicized.
- Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the overview by P.Finkel in S ⁇ FW-Journal 122, 543 (1996) and Parf.Kosm. 3, 11 (1999). surfactants
- Anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or amphoteric surfactants may be present as surface-active substances, the proportion of which in the compositions is usually about 1 to 70, preferably 5 to 50 and in particular 10 to 30% by weight.
- anionic surfactants are soaps, alkyl benzene sulfonates, alkane sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, ⁇ -methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerin ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, ether ether sulfates (mon) sulfates, mono- and dialkylsulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkylsulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids, such as
- anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
- Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosidic acid, alkyl glucose amides, and glucoronic acid (glucoric acid) glucoronic acid or glucoronic acid (glucoric acid) glucoronic acid or glucuric acid fatty acid or glucoronic acid or glucoronic acid or glucoronic acid or glucoronic acid or glucoronic acid or glucoronic acid or glucoric acid acid or glucoronic acid or glucoric
- nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
- cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as, for example, dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and esterquats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts.
- amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds.
- Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, ie particularly skin-compatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamate, -olefinsulfonate, fatty acid gluco fatty acid fatty acids, ether carboboacid fatty acids, ether carboboacetate acids, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins. waxes
- the waxes include natural waxes, such as Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walrate, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozocerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin wax; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), e.g. Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, e.g. Polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes in question.
- natural waxes such as Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax
- lecithins In addition to fats, fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids can also be used as additives.
- lecithins as those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore often referred to in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC) and follow the general formula,
- R typically represents linear aliphatic hydrocarbon radicals with 15 to 17 carbon atoms and up to 4 cis double bonds.
- lecithins are the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids.
- phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats.
- sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.
- Pearlescent waxes are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxysubstituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 Carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and
- Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and, in addition, partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids.
- a combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred.
- Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (eg carbopols) ® and Pemulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene® from Sigma; Keltrol-
- Kelco Types of Kelco; Seppic Sepigel types; Salcare types from Allied Colloids
- polyacrylamides polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone
- surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with narrowed homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well as electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride.
- Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.
- Metal salts of fatty acids such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used.
- Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as a quaternary ternated hydroxyethyl cellulose, which is available from Amerchol under the name Polymer JR 400®, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers, such as, for example, Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as, for example, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as, for example, amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylene triamine / sand derarodinoleic acid / cart
- Anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers include, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their crosslinked polyols and their esters, polyols and their polyols , Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert.butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxyproyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethylroloyl methacrylate and
- Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds, which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature.
- Simethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable.
- a detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found by Todd et al. in Cosm.Toil. 91, 27 (1976). antioxidants
- Antioxidants can also be added which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin.
- Typical examples of this are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-camosine and their derivatives (e.g. Anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g.
- thiols e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine , Cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl,
- Cholesteryl and glyceryl esters and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (for example Buthioninsulfoximine, homocysteine sulfoximine, Butioninsulfone, penta-, hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (e.g.
- ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferin
- ⁇ -hydroxy acids e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
- humic acid bile acid
- Bile extracts bilirubin
- biliverdin EDTA
- EGTA EGTA and their derivatives
- unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid
- folic acid and their derivatives ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives
- vitamin C and derivatives e.g.
- ZnS ⁇ 4 selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances ,
- Biogenic active substances are, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, deoxyribonucleic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes. swelling agent
- Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl-modified carbopol types can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases. Further suitable polymers or swelling agents can be found in the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).
- Dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner.
- Arbutin, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) can be used as tyrosine inhibitors, which prevent the formation of melanin and are used in depigmenting agents.
- Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior.
- Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
- the polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are
- Alkylene glycols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
- Methyl compounds such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
- Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms such as sorbitol or mannitol,
- Dialcohol amines such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1, 3-propanediol. preservative
- Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Regulation.
- Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).
- Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenylglycinate, allyl cyclohexyl stylyl propylalionate, propyl ationate,
- the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether
- the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldeh
- fragrance oils which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil.
- the dyes which can be used are the substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes” by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.
- Both organic and inorganic fillers can be used.
- Talc, mica (e.g. Sericite), barium sulfates, polyethylenes, polytetrafluoroethylenes, nylon powder, and polymethacrylate powder (PMMA) are preferably used.
- the total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 80, preferably 5 to 50 and in particular 7 to 10% by weight, based on the composition.
- the agents can be prepared by customary cold or hot emulsions.
- Emulsifier 1.0 or 4.5% by weight
- Oil body emulsifier:
- Oils 1 to 3 are according to the invention, oil No. 4 serves as a comparison
- Evaluation criteria To determine the particle size, a diffraction pattern is determined using laser diffraction. The particle size distribution is then calculated from the light intensities of these diffraction patterns using the Frauhofer theory (Sympatec Helos)
- Homogenizing valve radial diffuser (flat nozzle)
- Viscosity Höppler, Kugel 1, Cocoglycerides 1.4 ⁇ m 20 ° C: 4.5 mPas Castor Oil 2.9 ⁇ m Myreth-3 Myristate no emulsion formation (no storage tests)
- Viscosity (Höppler, Kugel 1, Cocoglycerides 2.3 ⁇ m 20 ° C): 2 mPas Castor Oil 4.5 ⁇ m
- the particle size could not be determined after storage at 40 ° C. since the emulsions were already separated after 24 hours.
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Abstract
Description
Claims
Priority Applications (4)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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EP01994685A EP1337225A1 (de) | 2000-11-30 | 2001-11-21 | Feinteilige emulsionen |
JP2002545650A JP2005506274A (ja) | 2000-11-30 | 2001-11-21 | 微粒状エマルション |
AU2002224862A AU2002224862A1 (en) | 2000-11-30 | 2001-11-21 | Fine-grained emulsions |
US10/433,114 US20040029977A1 (en) | 2000-11-30 | 2001-11-21 | Fine-grained emulsions |
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DE10059430.1 | 2000-11-30 | ||
DE10059430A DE10059430A1 (de) | 2000-11-30 | 2000-11-30 | Feinteilige Emulsionen |
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WO2002043672A1 true WO2002043672A1 (de) | 2002-06-06 |
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PCT/EP2001/013482 WO2002043672A1 (de) | 2000-11-30 | 2001-11-21 | Feinteilige emulsionen |
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US (1) | US20040029977A1 (de) |
EP (1) | EP1337225A1 (de) |
JP (1) | JP2005506274A (de) |
AU (1) | AU2002224862A1 (de) |
DE (1) | DE10059430A1 (de) |
WO (1) | WO2002043672A1 (de) |
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Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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AU2002224862A1 (en) | 2002-06-11 |
EP1337225A1 (de) | 2003-08-27 |
US20040029977A1 (en) | 2004-02-12 |
DE10059430A1 (de) | 2002-06-06 |
JP2005506274A (ja) | 2005-03-03 |
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