Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

• the present invention is directed to a composition for keratinous fibers and to methods of treating keratinous fibers with the composition in order to provide protection from extrinsic damage and to provide improved styling properties and other qualities.
• the inventive composition can provide protection to hair while improving combability and curl formation.
• the present invention is directed to a composition comprising plant extracts that provides protection benefits to keratinous fibers, including hair, eyelashes, and eyebrows.
• Keratinous fibers, especially hair are constantly exposed to harsh extrinsic conditions such as sun, chemical damage, e.g., from detergents, bleaching, relaxing, dyeing, and permanent waving, and heat, e.g., from hair dryers or curlers. These external factors generally result in damage to the keratinous fibers. There is a need, therefore, for cosmetic products that are useful in restoring and protecting keratinous fibers from such harsh extrinsic conditions.
• plant extracts have been used in numerous skin care compositions such as: compositions containing carrot, tomato, tobacco, bean or potato extracts for the repair of sun damaged skin (U.S. Patent No.
• compositions containing actzuki bean, catechu, or avocado extracts for preventing and improving multiple skin conditions European Patent EP965328 A1
• compositions containing herbal extracts such as dill, horseradish, oats, neem, beet, broccoli, tea, pumpkin, soybean, barley, walnut, flax, ginseng, poppy, avocado, pea or sesame for the delivery of active ingredients in the form of adhesive strips which remove keratotic plugs from skin pores U.S. Patent No. 5,985,300
• topical formulations containing orange, avocado, watermelon, banana, lemon, palm oil, or coconut oil for the treatment of redness, swelling, itching, and soreness of the skin U.S.
• Patent No. 5,932,230 skin cream compositions containing the juice of an avocado, cucumber, lemon, or weeping willow for cleansing, moisturizing, nourishing and healing the skin
• U.S. Patent No. 4,722,843 skin moisturizing and cleansing cream comprising a mixture of a predominant amount of fresh fruit
• skin moisturizing and sunscreen compositions containing biological extracts such as green tea extract, horsetail extract, sunflower extract, and wheat germ extract
• hair care compositions such as: hair cosmetic compositions containing a plant extract chosen from bark of birch, grass of rosemary, and avocado (U.S. Patent No. 4,839,168); compositions for treating dandruff (U.S. Patent No. 5,053,222) and hair growth-promoting compositions (JP62099319) containing mistletoe; and compositions containing a bean extract (JP59101414) that correct damaged hair.
• plant extracts contain lectins, also referred to as agglutinins, affinitins, phytoagglutinins, phasins or protectins. These are a group of proteins or glycoproteins, of both plant and animal origin, that have specific binding affinity to sugar groups which exist in polysaccharides or glycoproteins. Not to be limited as to theory, it is believed that this binding affinity to sugars is responsible for the observed therapeutic or protective properties that make plant extracts a choice material for use in target delivery of active ingredients or therapeutic agents.
• U.S. Patent No. 4,217,341 discloses compositions containing lectins which bind and agglutinate dental-plaque producing bacteria, thereby inhibiting the adherence of said bacteria to smooth surfaces such as teeth surfaces.
• U.S. Patent No. 5,607,679 discloses a method of treatment of a skin disease by binding lectins to a sialylated TF antigen of the skin. The specific affinity of lectins for sugars is also taught in U.S. Patent No. 5,510,120 and EP0481701 B1 where the lectin is covalently bound to a liposome which also contains an active ingredient. Thus the active is delivered to the specific site desired.
• Plant extracts and lectins are also used in the characterization of carbohydrates because of their ability to bind to some sugar molecules and moieties, and their ability to cause cell agglutination by binding to the glycoproteins located in the cell membrane.
• the nature of the binding sites can be determined by the hapten-inhibition test. See Kornfeld, S. and Kornfeld, R., Lectins in the Study of Glycoproteins (1978). In this assay; various carbohydrates are tested for their ability to inhibit the lectin-induced agglutination of the test cells. It has been shown that various lectins react with a number of different carbohydrates, both simple and complex sugars. See Kornfeld, S.
• the present invention in one aspect, provides a method of protecting keratinous fiber from extrinsic damage, e.g., protein loss caused by exposure to heat, chemicals, etc., by applying to keratinous fiber a composition that contains at least one plant extract chosen from potato extract, mistletoe extract, avocado extract, wheat germ extract, and willowherb extract.
• the present invention also contemplates a method of improving combability and/or a method of improving curl formation of keratinous fibers by applying to the keratinous fibers a composition containing at least one plant extract.
• the present invention is drawn to a composition for the treatment or protection of keratinous fiber, the composition comprising at least one plant extract chosen from willow herb extract.
• Figure 1 The evaluation of plant extracts for the protection of hair using the protein loss test on normal/bleached hair.
• Figure 2 The evaluation of plant extracts for the protection of hair using the protein loss test on bleached hair.
• Figure 3 Compositions containing willowherb extract and mixtures of willowherb extract and sucrose are evaluated for their ability to protect hair by measuring the increase in wet combing work.
• the invention in one aspect, provides a method of protecting keratinous fiber from extrinsic damage by applying to keratinous fiber a composition that contains at least one plant extract chosen from potato extract, mistletoe extract, avocado extract, wheat germ extract, and willowherb extract.
• Extrinsic damage is damage that is caused by conditions such as sun, chemical damage, e.g., from detergents, bleaching, relaxing, dyeing, and permanent waving, and heat, e.g., from hair dryers or curlers.
• Examples of keratinous fiber include hair, eyelashes, and eyebrows.
• the composition may further comprise at least one sugar.
• the present invention also contemplates a method of improving combability and/or a method of improving curl formation of keratinous fibers by applying to the keratinous fibers a composition comprising at least one plant extract.
• the composition may further comprise at least one sugar.
• Plant extracts are known to bind to carbohydrate moieties, including the carbohydrate moieties of glycoproteins on the surface of cells. Therefore, it naturally follows that plant extracts should bind to keratinous fiber, which contains a number of sugars and carbohydrate moieties. It was unexpectedly discovered by the present inventors, however, that in addition to binding to keratinous fiber, plant extracts and plant extract-like materials provide protection from extrinsic conditions to the keratinous fiber and also impart other desired benefits to keratinous fiber. Even more surprising was the ability of plant extracts to provide greater protection to keratinous fiber, especially hair, that has already been damaged by extrinsic conditions as compared to non-damaged hair.
• NANA N-acetylneuraminic acid
• NANA is the first constituent exposed to the attack during various treatments applied to hair.
• plant extracts have been shown to bind to keratinous fiber and impart protective effects to the fiber from damage by extrinsic conditions. Plant extracts also condition the surface of the fiber and retain the integrity of keratinous fibers by reducing cuticle loss. In addition to protecting keratinous fiber, plant extracts improve the combability and the curl formation of keratinous fibers.
• Any plant extract that binds to carbohydrate moieties or sugars may be useful in the practice of the invention.
• a plant extract useful in the methods of the invention may also be any plant extract that protects keratinous fibers from protein loss. The skilled artisan may determine by routine experimentation if a plant extract binds to carbohydrate moieties or protects keratinous fibers from protein loss depending on the application envisaged.
• Routine experiments for determining if a plant extract may be useful in the practice of the invention include column chromatography, as described in Example 1 , which determines the binding of a plant extract to a carbohydrate moiety; the protein loss test, as described in Example 2, which determines whether a plant extract protects keratinous fibers from protein loss; and the combability test, as described in Example 3, which compares the increase in wet combing work caused by extrinsic conditions for hair treated with a plant extract versus untreated hair.
• a positive result in any or all of the tests provided is not necessarily required for a plant extract to be useful in the compositions and methods of the invention.
• the combability test (See Garcia, M. L., and Diaz, J., J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 27, 370-398 (1976)), is known in the art to correlate well to the amount of protection from exposure to extrinsic conditions that is afforded hair by a composition.
• Wet combing work of normal hair is determined prior to treatment.
• the hair is then divided into two groups and treated, one group with the plant extract and the other group with control solutions.
• the hair is exposed to harsh extrinsic conditions such as heating.
• the increase in work or force required to comb wet hair is compared for the exposed hair treated with the plant extract versus the exposed hair treated with the controls.
• Preferred plant extracts of the present invention include, but are not limited to, willowherb extract; potato extracts such as Dermolectine® and Capilectine®; mistletoe extract; avocado extract; wheat germ extract; kidney bean extract; other vegetable extracts such as carrot, soybean, oat, beet, cucumber, broccoli, pumpkin and tomato extract; tobacco extract; other herbal extracts such as dill, horseradish, weeping willow, ginseng, poppy, or sesame; other fruit extracts such as orange, lemon, watermelon, banana, and coconut.
• Plant extracts are generally supplied in water or glycerol solutions containing, for example, in the case of Dermolectine®, 60% glycerol, but it is possible that they may be obtained in more concentrated form. Additionally, many suppliers do not provide the percent active ingredient for commercially available plant extracts.
• the plant extracts of the present invention are chosen from plant extracts containing lectins.
• Lectins can be extracted from a variety of plant or animal materials and can be categorized by their affinity to a particular sugar or sugar complex.
• Lectins useful in the practice of the invention include, but are not limited to: Solarium tuberosum L (potato extract), which may be purified by affinity chromatography and is commercially available from SEDERMA, Inc. (France) as Dermolectine® (700 mg/100 g actives concentration) and Capilectine® (500 mg/100 g actives concentration), ALBAN MULLER, Int.
• VEGETECH Lycopersicon esculentum
• tomato extract tomato extract
• Agaricus bisporus mushroom extract
• Arachis hypogea peanut extract
• Bauhinia pupurea camel's foot tree or seed extract
• Anguilla anguilla fresh water eel extract
• Tetragonolobus purpureas winged pea extract
• Ulex europaeus gorse or furze extract
• Lathyrus odoratus sweet pea extract
• Lens culinaris lentil extract
• Pisum sativum pea extract
• agglutinins from Glycine max (soybean extract), Helix aspersa (garden snail extract) or Helix pomatia (roman or edible snail extract).
• compositions of the present invention may also contain at least one sugar.
• compositions comprising mixtures of one or more plant extracts are within the practice of the invention, as are compositions comprising mixtures of one or more plant extracts and one or more sugars.
• the sugars useful in the present invention may be any sugar, carbohydrate or carbohydrate moiety.
• the sugars may be chosen from monosaccharides, which include, but are not limited to, any three to seven carbon sugars such as pentoses, e.g., ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, ribulose, and xylulose, and hexoses, e.g., allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, sorbose, psicose, fructose, and tagatose; disaccharides (which are saccharides that hydrolyze into two monosaccharides) such as maltose, sucrose, cellobiose, trehalose and lactose; and polysaccharides (which are saccharides that hydrolyze into more than two monosaccharides) such as starch, dextria
• the mixture of at least one plant extract and at least one sugar is chosen from mixtures of potato extracts such as Dermolectine® and/or Capilectine® and one or more sugars chosen from sorbose, sucrose and trehalose; kidney bean extract and sucrose; and willowherb extract and sucrose.
• a plant extract or mixture of plant extracts is present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 5.0% relative to the total weight of the composition.
• a sugar or mixture, of sugars is present in the compositions of the present invention, it is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.001 % to 3.0% relative to the total weight of the composition.
• These ranges are based on a commercially available plant extract composition, which is approximately 60% glycerol.
• the preferred ranges of plant extract present in the compositions of the present invention may vary depending on the percent active ingredient of the plant extracts as supplied commercially.
• compositions of the present invention may be in the form of a liquid, oil, paste, stick, dispersion, emulsion, lotion, gel, or cream.
• the compositions of the present invention may also be provided as one-part compositions comprising the plant extract or mixture of plant extracts and, optionally, the sugar or mixture or sugars or in the form of a multicomponent treatment or kit.
• the multicomponent kit may comprise one component that contains a plant extract and another component that optionally contains a sugar. The skilled artisan, based on the stability of the composition and the application envisaged, will be able to determine how the composition and/or multicomponent compositions should be stored and mixed.
• the present invention is drawn to a composition for the treatment or protection of keratinous fiber, the composition comprising willowherb extract.
• the composition may further comprise at least one sugar.
• Example 1 A Test to Determine the Binding of a Plant Extract to a Carbohydrate Moiety
• a screening test to determine the applicability of a plant extract for use in the compositions of the present invention was carried out. Since any plant extract that binds to carbohydrate moieties or sugars may be useful in the practice of the invention, the skilled artisan may use column chromatography or HPLC to quickly determine the binding properties of a plant extract to a specific carbohydrate and therefore the possible utility of that plant extract for the application envisaged.
• HPLC experiments were performed as shown in Table 4 below.
• a cation exchange chromatographic column that will not retain NANA but will retain or slow the elution of a NANA/plant extract complex was chosen, in this case a NANA/Dermolectine® complex.
• the amount of NANA recovered following HPLC with the control solution glycerol was chosen as a control because the Dermolectine® solution contained 60% glycerol), as calculated from NANA's absorption at 200 nm, was then compared to the amount of NANA recovered following HPLC with a solution containing the potato extract, Dermolectine®.
• NANA in the glycerol control solution was not retained by the column during HPLC and 100% of the NANA was recovered at a time A. Therefore, any NANA from the NANA/Dermolectine® solutions passed through the column that was not recovered at time A was due to an interaction between NANA and the Dermolectine®. As shown in Table 4, below, the lower amounts of NANA recovered following HPLC demonstrated that Dermolectine® is capable of binding NANA.
• Dermolectine® contains 60% glycerol.
• Example 2 A Test to Determine the Protection of Keratinous Fibers from Protein Loss by a Plant Extract
• a plant extract useful in the compositions of the invention may also be any plant extract that protects keratinous fibers from protein loss.
• the skilled artisan may determine by the protein loss test, whether a plant extract protects keratinous fibers from protein loss.
• the protein content in each water sample was determined by the Lowry technique. See Sandhu, S.S., and Robbins, C.R., J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem.. 44, 163-175 (1993). As shown in Table 5, the protein loss from the hair pre-treated with 1% solutions of Dermolectine® and Capilectine® was significantly lower than that from the hair pre-treated with the glycerol solution.
• Swatches of bleached hair were treated with the above solutions for 5 minutes at room temperature, and rinsed with tepid water for one minute. The treatments were repeated five times. The shaking-in-water procedure was conducted as described above. In all cases, the protein loss from the bleached hair treated with the potato extracts was significantly lower than that from the corresponding control swatches (See Table 6).
• the combability test was used to determine the amount of protection from extrinsic conditions afforded hair by a composition of the invention.
• the wet combing force of normal brown hair was determined prior to further treatment. See Garcia, M. L., and Diaz, J., J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 27, 370-398 (1976).
• Dermolectine® and Potato HS each contain 60-80% glycerol, therefore these potato extracts were tested against 3% glycerol solutions (control).
• the treatment was repeated three times, with the hair being rinsed and air-dried between each application.
• the pre-treated normal hair was then equilibrated under room conditions for 24 hours and bleached (30 minutes at room temperature; 12% H 2 0 2 , pH 9.7 adjusted with ammonia).
• the bleached hair was tested for the increase in wet combing force as compared to the initial wet combing force for normal brown hair before treatment and bleaching. All tests were performed in duplicate. As shown below in table 7, the increase in the wet combing force for hair pre-treated with Dermolectine® or Potato HS solutions was significantly lower than that observed for hair pre-treated with the glycerol solution.
• the combability or wet combing force for bleached hair was determined before and after treatment with potato extract. Bleached hair was treated with a solution of 1% of the potato extract, Capilectine®, while another sample of bleached hair was treated with a solution of 0.6% glycerol. All samples were treated for 5 minutes at room temperature at a hairliquid ratio of 1 :10 (w/w) and then rinsed for 3 minutes with tepid water. The wet combing force after the Capilectine® application was lessened, indicating that the application improved the combability by 45%, while there were no significant changes after the glycerol treatment (Table 8).
• the rods were blotted with paper-towel, and the permanent waving reforming lotion was applied (10% Thioglycolic acid (TGA), 1% Betaine, pH 9.01 , NH 4 OH; 2 ml per rod).
• TGA Thioglycolic acid
• Betaine 1% Betaine, pH 9.01 , NH 4 OH; 2 ml per rod.
• the hair was processed for 30 minutes at room temperature; rinsed in deionized water (100 mL/6 rods; 5 minutes); neutralized with 2% H 2 0 2 , pH 3 (5 minutes; 2 ml/rod); and again rinsed with deionized water (100 mL/6 rods; 5 minutes).
• the rods were blotted with a paper towel, the hair was taken off the rods, and the diameter and the length of the wet curl were measured. The length of the dry curl of the swatches was measured after drying in a vertical position on the board.
• Swatches of normal brown hair were treated with one of the following 1 % solutions of: Dermolectine®, avocado extract (Active Organics), Mistletoe Extract (Active Organics), and Wheat Germ Extract (Active Organics). Since all of the plant extracts contained 60 to 80 % glycerol, control swatches of hair were treated with water and 1 % glycerol, respectively. The hair was then bleached with 12% H 2 O 2 , pH 8.8 (NH 4 OH) for 20 minutes at room temperature. There was no significant difference in the lift of color between the extract treated and water treated swatches.
• the hair was digested in 6N HCL (110°C, 24 hours) and analyzed for cysteic acid using a Beckman System 6300 High Performance Analyzer.
• the cysteic acid content is another way to measure the amount of damage to hair fibers caused by bleaching. The higher the cysteic acid content, the more damage done to the hair.
• Table 10 shows that while all of the plant extracts tested protected hair from loss of NANA relative to water and glycerol, there was no appreciable difference in the cysteic acid content of hair pretreated by plant extract.
• NANA content was measured by the following procedure.
• the hair was digested with papain/dithiotreitol, lyophilized, and reconstituted with 0.2 N H 2 SO 4 .
• the hair was then hydrolyzed at 80°C for 1 hour, derivatized with the fluorescent probe, 1 ,2-diamino-4,5-methlenedioxybenzene, and analyzed for NANA content by reverse-phase HPLC. As shown in Table 10, all of the plant extracts protected the hair from loss of NANA during bleaching, which indicates protection of hair surface glycoproteins.
• Hair/Treatment NANA Cysteic acid, Protein loss, nmole/g hair Mole % ⁇ g/g hair
• the bleached hair was then bleached again with 12% H 2 O 2 , pH 8.8 (NH 4 OH) for 20 minutes at room temperature. There was no significant difference in the lift of color between the extract-treated and water-treated swatches. The hair was analyzed for cysteic acid and protein loss in water as described above.
• each of the plant extract solutions protected the hair from cysteic acid formation.
• each of the plant extract solutions protected the hair from protein loss.
• a concentration dependence was also observed with regard to the ability of a plant extract to protect hair from protein loss.
• the combability test was used to demonstrate the effective protection from extrinsic conditions, such as heat, afforded hair by a composition of the invention.
• the wet combing force of bleached hair was determined prior to further treatment.
• hair swatches were treated with one of the following solutions: a) water (control); b) sugar solution; c) willowherb solution; and e) willowherb and sugar mixture.
• the treatment was repeated six times, with the hair being rinsed and subjected to heating cycles between each treatment. See McMullen, R. and Jachowicz, J., J. Cosmet. Sc 49, 223-244 (1998).
• the bleached hair was tested for the increase in wet combing force as compared to the initial wet combing force of the bleached hair before treatment and heating to determine the efficacy of the treatments against heat exposure.
• Figure 3 shows a reduction in percent increase in wet combing work. This indicates that there was a effective protection of hair from heat cycles using willowherb extract or a willowherb extract/sucrose mixture at the concentrations shown.

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• 2001
  • 2001-05-21 AU AU2001256590A patent/AU2001256590A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2001-05-21 CA CA002408758A patent/CA2408758A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2001-05-21 JP JP2001585705A patent/JP2003534258A/ja active Pending
  • 2001-05-21 EP EP01929911A patent/EP1283694A2/en not_active Withdrawn
  • 2001-05-21 WO PCT/IB2001/000886 patent/WO2001089459A2/en not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2001-05-21 CN CN01810129A patent/CN1430499A/zh active Pending
  • 2001-05-21 BR BR0111109-4A patent/BR0111109A/pt not_active Application Discontinuation
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  • 2001-05-23 AR ARP010102438A patent/AR028609A1/es not_active Application Discontinuation
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