WO2002078649A2 - Compositions comprising at least one saccharide type compound and their use for the protection and/or repair of hair - Google Patents
Compositions comprising at least one saccharide type compound and their use for the protection and/or repair of hair Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2002078649A2 WO2002078649A2 PCT/IB2002/002075 IB0202075W WO02078649A2 WO 2002078649 A2 WO2002078649 A2 WO 2002078649A2 IB 0202075 W IB0202075 W IB 0202075W WO 02078649 A2 WO02078649 A2 WO 02078649A2
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- monosaccharides
- substituted
- composition
- keratinous fiber
- amino group
- Prior art date
Links
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- 229930006000 Sucrose Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 239000004904 UV filter Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002411 adverse Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001476 alcoholic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000001304 aldoheptoses Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000001312 aldohexoses Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000001330 aldotetroses Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000001333 aldotrioses Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- XAGFODPZIPBFFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N aluminium Chemical compound [Al] XAGFODPZIPBFFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052782 aluminium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 150000004263 amino monosaccharides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000013459 approach Methods 0.000 description 1
- ODKSFYDXXFIFQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N arginine Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CCCNC(N)=N ODKSFYDXXFIFQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GUBGYTABKSRVRQ-QUYVBRFLSA-N beta-maltose Chemical compound OC[C@H]1O[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)O[C@@H]2CO)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O GUBGYTABKSRVRQ-QUYVBRFLSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229920002678 cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000001913 cellulose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010980 cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000004040 coloring Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000008406 cosmetic ingredient Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960003067 cystine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000003247 decreasing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001627 detrimental effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000019425 dextrin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000001938 differential scanning calorimetry curve Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009792 diffusion process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229940120503 dihydroxyacetone Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000002016 disaccharides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000008034 disappearance Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002708 enhancing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- UQPHVQVXLPRNCX-UHFFFAOYSA-N erythrulose Chemical compound OCC(O)C(=O)CO UQPHVQVXLPRNCX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000012634 fragment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940096919 glycogen Drugs 0.000 description 1
- PCHJSUWPFVWCPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N gold Chemical compound [Au] PCHJSUWPFVWCPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000010931 gold Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052737 gold Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 231100000640 hair analysis Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 230000003779 hair growth Effects 0.000 description 1
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- 150000002454 idoses Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000003752 improving hair Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000010348 incorporation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000010409 ironing Methods 0.000 description 1
- BJHIKXHVCXFQLS-PQLUHFTBSA-N keto-D-tagatose Chemical compound OC[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)C(=O)CO BJHIKXHVCXFQLS-PQLUHFTBSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000002566 ketoheptoses Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000002574 ketohexoses Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000002584 ketoses Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000002586 ketotetroses Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000002588 ketotrioses Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000008101 lactose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010309 melting process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000001724 microfibril Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000000282 nail Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000008520 organization Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000037361 pathway Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000704 physical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004321 preservation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000011321 prophylaxis Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000008707 rearrangement Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000008929 regeneration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000011069 regeneration method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000021309 simple sugar Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940057950 sodium laureth sulfate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- SXHLENDCVBIJFO-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-[2-(2-dodecoxyethoxy)ethoxy]ethyl sulfate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCOCCOCCOCCOS([O-])(=O)=O SXHLENDCVBIJFO-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 239000005720 sucrose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000475 sunscreen effect Effects 0.000 description 1
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- 238000009864 tensile test Methods 0.000 description 1
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- 230000008719 thickening Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004736 wide-angle X-ray diffraction Methods 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/24—Thermal properties
Definitions
- the present invention relates to compositions, kits comprising these compositions, and methods for using these compositions for repairing or for protecting from extrinsic damage at least one keratinous fiber, including human keratinous fibers, by applying to the at least one keratinous fiber compositions which comprise at least one saccharide type compound chosen from C 3 to C5 monosaccharides substituted with at least one C 1 to C 22 carbon chain and compounds comprising at least one C 5 to C saccharide unit substituted with at least one amino group and, in certain embodiments, at least one film forming agent different from the at least one compound, and heating the at least one keratinous fiber.
- These compositions may both protect and repair the at least one keratinous fiber.
- Keratinous fibers, and especially hair are constantly exposed to harsh extrinsic conditions such as sun (i.e., UV radiation), chemical damage (for example, from detergents, bleaching, relaxing, dyeing, and permanent waving), and heat (for example, from hair dryers or curlers).
- sun i.e., UV radiation
- chemical damage for example, from detergents, bleaching, relaxing, dyeing, and permanent waving
- heat for example, from hair dryers or curlers.
- extrinsic conditions may disrupt the organized structure of the keratinous fibers, called the -st ructure, which may be accompanied by a decrease in their tensile strength.
- the extrinsic damage to keratinous fibers is more evident the further the fiber has grown from the root, because the fiber has been exposed longer to the elements.
- the fibers have what may be called a "damage history" as they grow, i.e., generally, further from the root, the tensile strength of the fiber is lower and the breakdown in the - structure of the fiber that has occurred is greater.
- a keratinous fiber contains four structural units: cuticle, cortex, medulla, and intercellular cement. Robbins, C.R. Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair. 3 rd Edition, Springer- Verlag (1994).
- the cuticle layers are located on the fiber surface and consist of flat overlapping cells (“scales"). These scales are attached at the root end and point toward the distal (tip) end of the fiber and form layers around the fiber cortex .
- the cortex comprises the major part of the fiber.
- the cortex consists of spindle- shaped cells, macrofibrils, that are aligned along the fiber axis.
- the macrofibrils further consist of microfibrils (highly organized protein units) that are embedded in the matrix of amorphous protein structure.
- the medulla is a porous region in the center of the fiber.
- the medulla is a common part of wool fibers but is found only in thicker human keratinous fibers.
- the intercellular cement is the material that binds the cells together, forming the major pathway for diffusion into the fibers.
- the mechanical properties of the keratinous fibers are determined by the cortex.
- a two-phase model for the cortex organization has been suggested. Milczarek et al, Colloid Polvm. Sci.. 270, 1106-1115 (1992).
- water-impenetrable microfilaments ("rods") are oriented parallel with the fiber axis.
- the microfilaments are embedded in a water-penetrable matrix ("cement").
- cement water-penetrable matrix
- coiled protein molecules are arranged in a specific and highly organized way, representing a degree of crystallinity in the fiber.
- keratinous fibers display a distinct diffraction pattern when examined by wide-angle X-ray diffraction.
- this pattern is called an "alpha-pattern”.
- the alpha-pattern or - structure of hair is characterized by specific repeated spacings (9.8 A, 5.1 A, and 1.5A). All proteins that display this X-ray diffraction pattern are called - proteins and include, among others, human hair and nails, wool, and porcupine quill.
- a new X-ray diffraction pattern emerges that is called a " - pattern", with new spacings (9.8 A, 4.65 A, and 3.3 A).
- sugars have been applied to hair for countless reasons from moisturizing to enhancing hair growth (J 10279439, assigned to Kureha Chem. Ind. Co. Ltd.).
- J 10279439 assigned to Kureha Chem. Ind. Co. Ltd.
- not all sugars are the same and not all sugars impart the same properties when applied to a keratinous fiber.
- the use of specific sugars that protect hair from extrinsic damage and, more particularly, protect the - structure of hair from such damage has not been demonstrated.
- a better understanding of the advantages of using sugars in hair care compositions is needed, and more specifically, an understanding of how sugars may be useful in restoring and protecting keratinous fibers.
- the inventors have envisaged the application to at least one keratinous fiber of at least one composition comprising at least one saccharide type compound chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides substituted with at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain and compounds comprising at least one C 5 to C saccharide unit substituted with at least one amino group.
- compositions and methods using these compositions comprising applying to the at least one keratinous fiber at least one saccharide type compound, and heating the at least one keratinous fiber are useful for repairing or for protecting from extrinsic damage the at least one keratinous fiber.
- the present invention in one aspect, provides a method for protecting at least one keratinous fiber from extrinsic damage or repairing at least one keratinous fiber following extrinsic damage comprising applying to the at least one keratinous fiber a composition comprising at least one saccharide type compound chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides substituted with at least one C1 to C 22 carbon chain and compounds comprising at least one C 5 to C 7 saccharide unit substituted with at least one amino group, and heating the at least one keratinous fiber, wherein the at least one compound is present in an amount effective to protect the at least one keratinous fiber from the extrinsic damage or to repair a damaged keratinous fiber, and further wherein the composition is applied prior to or during heating.
- a composition comprising at least one saccharide type compound chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides substituted with at least one C1 to C 22 carbon chain and compounds comprising at least one C 5 to C 7 saccharide unit substituted with at least one
- the present invention is drawn to a method for protecting at least one keratinous fiber from extrinsic damage or repairing at least one keratinous fiber following extrinsic damage comprising applying to at least one keratinous fiber a composition comprising (i) at least one one saccharide type compound chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides substituted with at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain and compounds comprising at least one C5 to C saccharide unit substituted with at least one amino group, and heating the at least one keratinous fiber, wherein the at least one compound and the at least one film forming agent are present in an amount effective to protect the keratinous fiber from extrinsic damage or to repair a damaged keratinous fiber, and further wherein the composition is applied prior to or during heating.
- the present invention is also drawn to compositions for protecting at least one keratinous fiber from extrinsic damage or repairing at least one keratinous fiber following extrinsic damage comprising (i) at least one one saccharide type compound chosen from C3 to C5 monosaccharides substituted with at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain and compounds comprising at least one C 5 to C 7 saccharide unit substituted with at least one amino group, wherein the at least one compound and the at least one film forming agent are present in an amount effective to protect the at least one keratinous fiber from the extrinsic damage or to repair a damaged keratinous fiber.
- the composition is heat-activated.
- compositions for protecting at least one keratinous fiber from extrinsic damage or repairing at least one keratinous fiber following extrinsic damage comprising at least one saccharide type compound chosen from C 3 to C5 monosaccharides substituted with at least one Ci to C22 carbon chain and compounds comprising at least one C5 to C saccharide unit substituted with at least one amino group and (ii) at least one film forming agent different from the at least one saccharide type, wherein the at least one compound is present in an amount effective to protect the at least one keratinous fiber from the extrinsic damage or to repair a damaged keratinous fiber.
- the composition is heat- activated.
- the present invention provides a kit for protecting at least one keratinous fiber from extrinsic damage or for repairing at least one keratinous fiber following extrinsic damage comprising at least one compartment, wherein a first compartment comprises a first composition comprising at least one saccharide type compound chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides substituted with at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain and compounds comprising at least one C 5 to C 7 saccharide unit substituted with at least one amino group.
- at least one compartment comprises at least one additional sugar, different from the at least one compound, and in another embodiment, at least one compartment comprises at least one film forming agent.
- the kit further comprises a second compartment comprising a composition comprising at least one film forming agent.
- Extrinsic damage means disruption of the - structure, protein loss, and/or denaturing caused by exposure to extrinsic conditions.
- Extrinsic conditions as used herein means heat (such as from hair dryers or curlers), chemicals (such as those used in detergents, bleaching, relaxing, dyeing, and permanent waving), and/or UV radiation (such as, for example, from light sources).
- At least one as used herein means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
- Heating refers to the use of elevated temperature (i.e., above 100°C).
- the heating in the inventive method may be provided by directly contacting the at least one keratinous fiber with a heat source, e.g., by heat styling of the at least one keratinous fiber.
- heat styling by direct contact with the at least one keratinous fiber include flat ironing, and curling methods using elevated temperatures (such as, for example, setting hair in curlers and heating, and curling with a curling iron and/or hot rollers).
- the heating in the inventive method may be provided by heating the at least one keratinous fiber with a heat source which may not directly contact the at least one keratinous fiber.
- heat sources which may not directly contact the at least one keratinous fiber include blow dryers, hood dryers, heating caps and steamers.
- a heat-activated composition refers to a composition which, for example, protects the at least one keratinous fiber better than the same composition which is not heated during or after application of the composition.
- Another example includes a composition which repairs the at least one keratinous fiber better than the same composition which is not heated during or after application.
- Keratinous fibers as defined herein may be human keratinous fibers, and may be chosen from, for example, hair.
- Oletaccharides refers to compounds generally comprising from two to ten monosaccharide units, which may be identical or different, bonded together.
- Polysaccharides as defined herein refers to compounds generally comprising greater than ten monosaccharide units, which may be identical or different, bonded together.
- Protected as defined herein means that the at least one keratinous fiber demonstrated a greater degree of preservation of the - structure and the tensile strength.
- Repairing as used herein means that the at least one damaged keratinous fiber demonstrated an increase in - structure and/or tensile strength following treatment of the at least one damaged keratinous fiber with the compositions of the invention.
- Figure 1 A DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimetry) thermogram of normal brown hair. The hair sample was heated from 25°C to 300°C at a heating rate of 20°C/min. Peak A is the water release peak. Doublet peak B corresponds to the melting or rearrangement of the - structure and its matrix contribution.
- sugars have been used in hair care compositions and other treatments for their moisture retaining properties.
- a certain class of sugars provided protection to keratinous fibers from at least one type of extrinsic damage and also repaired keratinous fibers damaged by such extrinsic conditions.
- compounds chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides substituted with at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain were found to protect the - structure of the hair cortex. This is particularly true when the compounds are applied to the hair, and then the hair is heated.
- the invention provides methods for protecting at least one keratinous fiber from extrinsic damage or for repairing at least one keratinous fiber following extrinsic damage comprising applying to the at least one keratinous fiber a composition comprising at least one compound chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides substituted with at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain, and heating the at least one keratinous fiber.
- the composition may be applied to the at least one keratinous fiber prior to and/or during the heating of the at least one keratinous fiber.
- the at least one compound is present in an amount effective to protect the at least one keratinous fiber from extrinsic damage and/or to repair the at least one keratinous fiber, depending on the embodiment.
- the composition both protects the at least one keratinous fiber from extrinsic damage and repairs the at least one damaged keratinous fiber.
- the composition may further comprise at least one additional sugar.
- the present invention provides also methods for protecting at least one keratinous fiber from extrinsic damage or for repairing at least one keratinous fiber following extrinsic damage comprising applying to the at least one keratinous fiber a composition comprising (i) at least one compound chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides substituted with at least one Ci to C22 carbon chain and compounds comprising at least one C 5 to C saccharide unit substituted with at least one amino group, and (ii) at least one film forming agent, and heating the at least one keratinous fiber.
- the composition may be applied to the at least one keratinous fiber prior to or during heating of the at least one keratinous fiber.
- the at least one compound and the at least one film forming agent are present in an amount effective either to protect the at least one keratinous fiber from extrinsic damage or to repair the at least one keratinous fiber, depending on the embodiment.
- the composition both protects the at least one keratinous fiber from extrinsic damage and repairs the at least one damaged keratinous fiber.
- the composition may further comprise at least one additional sugar.
- the present invention also provides compositions for protecting at least one keratinous fiber from extrinsic damage or for repairing at least one keratinous fiber following extrinsic damage comprising at least one compound chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides substituted with at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain and compounds comprising at least one C5 to C saccharide unit substituted with at least one amino group, and, and, optionally at least one film forming agent, wherein the at least one compound, and, optionally, the at least one film forming agent, are present in an amount effective to protect the at least one keratinous fiber from extrinsic damage or to repair at least one damaged keratinous fiber.
- the composition is heat- activated.
- the composition both protects the at least one keratinous fiber from extrinsic damage and repairs the at least one damaged keratinous fiber.
- the composition may further comprise at least one additional sugar and/or at least one film forming agent.
- the mechanical properties of the hair are determined by the cortex, wherein coiled protein molecules are arranged in a specific and highly organized pattern (the " - structure") representing a degree of crystallinity in the hair fiber.
- the -s gagture is sensitive to extrinsic conditions, the extent of damage to the hair by extrinsic conditions can be monitored by monitoring changes in the - structure.
- DSC differential scanning calorimetry
- the amount of energy needed to maintain the temperature changes when the material undergoes a change in crystal structure, a phase transition, or the loss of water.
- the water loss is an endothermic process, i.e., it requires energy. Therefore, the sample will absorb more energy as compared to the reference in order for the sample to remain at the same temperature as the reference. This process will be registered as an increase in the heat flow above the baseline in the form of a peak. The more water contained in the sample, the greater the peak area.
- water plays an important role in physico- chemical properties of the keratin fibers.
- the moisture content in dry fibers depends on both the relative humidity of the environment and on the condition of the hair.
- the water in the hair fiber can exist in three forms: 1) water adsorbed strongly on binding sites, 2) water adsorbed weakly on binding sites, and 3) loosely bound or free water. Based on the values for the heat of hydration found for each of the groups, it can be speculated that strongly bound binding sites include amino groups (hydration heat of 16.8 kcal/mole), while weakly bound binding sites may include hydroxyl and carboxylic groups (5.7 kcal/mole and 7.4 kcal/mole, respectively).
- DSC is also an excellent tool for observing the change in the - structure of keratinous fibers and can help indicate hair damage. From 20% to 30% of the hair cortex occurs in a highly organized ( - helical) form.
- the term - structure is associated with the doublet peak or peak area though technically the doublet area includes both a crystalline (microfibrillar) and non-crystalline (matrix) contribution.
- the - structure represents the overall integrity of the fiber in an unstressed state. (See Figure 1).
- the DSC peak, at 210- 250°C, also coincides with the disappearance of the alpha-pattern in the X-ray diffraction. Sandhu and Robbins, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem.. 44, 163-175 (1993). In other words, when normal hair is damaged by heat, chemical treatment, or UV irradiation, a decrease in the doublet peak area of the DSC is observed and the amount of damage can be quantified by the peak area.
- compositions for protecting at least one keratinous fiber from extrinsic damage and/or for repairing at least one keratinous fiber following extrinsic damage comprising at least one saccharide type compound compound chosen from C 3 to C5 monosaccharides substituted with at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain and compounds comprising at least one C 5 to C 7 saccharide unit substituted with at least one amino group, and optionally, at least one film forming agent.
- the composition is heat- activated.
- C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides substituted with at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain and compounds comprising at least one C5 to C saccharide unit substituted with at least one amino group may also reduce cuticle loss and/or facilitate repair or re-building of the - structure of the fibers following damage from extrinsic conditions.
- the ability of these C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides substituted with at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain and compounds comprising at least one C 5 to C 7 saccharide unit substituted with at least one amino group to repair keratinous fibers may be due to a reaction between the hair and these C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides substituted with at least one d to C 22 carbon chain and compounds comprising at least one C 5 to C 7 saccharide unit substituted with at least one amino group.
- the C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides substituted with at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain and compounds comprising at least one C 5 to C saccharide unit substituted with at least one amino group are hydrophobic, and may be used in conjunction with at least one film-forming agent, such as, for example, film-forming polymers and resins.
- the at least one composition may further comprise at least one film forming agent.
- the at least one film forming agent may be chosen from film forming polymers and film forming resins. Non- limiting examples of the at least one film forming agent are those listed at pages 1744 to 1747 of the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 8 th edition (2000).
- the at least one film forming agent may be neutralized.
- Non-limiting examples of the at least one film forming agent are those disclosed in WO 01/18096, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference.
- the at least one film forming agent may be present in an amount generally ranging from 0.01% to 30% of active material by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.1% to 10% of active material by weight.
- the at least one film forming agent according to the present invention may be commercially available, and may come from suppliers in the form of a dilute solution. The amounts of the at least one film forming agent disclosed herein therefore reflect the weight percent of active material.
- the C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides according to the present invention may be chosen from any triose, tetrose and pentose. Further, the C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides can be chosen from the D-form, L-form and mixtures of any of the foregoing.
- Non- limiting examples of C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides include aldopentoses (such as xylose, arabinose, lyxose, and ribose), ketopentoses (such as ribulose and xylulose), aldotetroses (such as erythrose and treose), ketotetroses (such as erythrulose), aldotrioses (such as glyceraldehyde) and ketotrioses (such as dihydroxyacetone).
- the C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides may be chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides comprising aldehyde groups (aldoses), furanoses and other ring structures.
- the C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides may be further substituted with at least one group different from the Ci to C 22 carbon chain.
- Derivatives of C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides substituted with at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain may be used as the at least one compound of the present invention.
- imine compounds are sometimes also referred to as Schiff bases.
- Other non-limiting examples of derivatives of C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides are hemiacetal derivatives of C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides, hemiketal derivatives of C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides and any oxidized derivatives of C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides.
- C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides may also include, but are not limited to, oligosaccharides derived from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides, such as xylobiose.
- the at least one compound chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides substituted with at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain may be further substituted with at least one group different from the at least one Ci to C22 carbon chain.
- the derivatives of C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides may be further substituted with at least one group different from the at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain.
- the at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain may be chosen from linear, branched and cyclic Ci to C 22 carbon chains, which are saturated or unsaturated.
- the at least one Ci to C22 carbon chain may optionally be substituted.
- the at least one Ci to C 2 2 carbon chain is chosen from C 16 to C 18 carbon chains.
- the at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain is chosen from C 16 carbon chains and C ⁇ carbon chains.
- Non-limiting examples of C 16 carbon chains are linear hexadecyl chains
- non-limiting examples of C 18 carbon chains are linear octadecyl chains.
- the C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides may be substituted with the at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain at any position on the sugar.
- a C 3 to C 5 monosaccharide is substituted with at least one Ci to C22 carbon chain at the C1 position of the C 3 to C5 monosaccharide.
- a C 3 to C 5 monosaccharide is substituted with the at least one Ci to C22 carbon chain at at least one of the hydroxyl groups of the C 3 to C 5 monosaccharide.
- substituted at at least one of the hydroxyl groups of a C 3 to C 5 monosaccharide means at least one of substitution on the hydroxyl group itself (i.e., formation of an ether linkage between the C 3 to C 5 monosaccharide and the Ci to C 22 carbon chain) and substitution on the carbon atom to which the hydroxyl group is commonly bonded.
- the C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides may be substituted with the at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain at a carbon atom bearing no hydroxyl groups (i.e., a CH 2 within the C 3 to C 5 monosaccharide or a carbon atom within the C 3 to C 5 monosaccharide bearing substituents other than a hydroxyl group).
- the C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides may be further substituted with at least one substituent different from the at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain.
- the at least one compound chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides substituted with at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain is present in the composition in an amount generally ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.1% to 5% by weight.
- the compositions of the present invention as well as those of the inventive methods may further comprise at least one additional sugar which is different from the at least one compound chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides substituted with at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain.
- the at least one additional sugar may, for example, aid in moisture retention. The effectiveness of a sugar in aiding in moisture retention may be measured by monitoring the DSC peak at a temperature ranging from 75°C to 200°C.
- the at least one C 5 to C 7 saccharide unit according to the present invention may be chosen from any pentose, hexose and heptose. Further, the at least one C 5 to C 7 saccharide unit can be chosen from their D-form, L-form and mixtures of any of the foregoing.
- Non-limiting examples of C5 to C 7 saccharide units are aldopentoses (such as xylose, arabinose, lyxose, and ribose), ketopentoses (such as ribulose and xylulose), aldohexoses (such as glucose and galactose), ketohexoses (such as fructose and sorbose), and heptoses (such as aldoheptoses and ketoheptoses, e.g., galactoheptulose and glucoheptulose).
- the at least one C 5 to C 7 saccharide unit may be chosen from those comprising aldehyde groups (aldoses), furanoses and other ring structures.
- the at least one C 5 to C 7 saccharide unit may be further substituted with at least one group different from the at least one amino group.
- Derivatives of C 5 to C 7 saccharide units may also be used as the at least one C 5 to C 7 saccharide unit in the present invention.
- imine compounds are sometimes also referred to as Schiff bases.
- Other non-limiting examples of derivatives of C 5 to C 7 saccharide units are hemiacetal derivatives of C 5 to C 7 saccharide units, hemiketal derivatives of C5 to C 7 saccharide units and any oxidized derivatives of C 5 to C saccharide units.
- These derivatives may be formed, for example, from the reaction of the aldehyde or ketone group of a saccharide unit with an alcohol.
- the at least one C5 to C saccharide unit may be further substituted with at least one group different from the at least one amino group.
- the derivatives of C 5 to C 7 saccharide units may be further substituted with at least one group different from the at least one amino group.
- the at least one amino group may be chosen from substituted and unsubstituted amino groups.
- the at least one amino group may be chosen from N-acetyl amino groups.
- the at least one C5 to C 7 saccharide unit may be substituted with the at least one amino group at any position on the saccharide unit.
- the at least one C 5 to C 7 saccharide unit is substituted with the at least one amino group at the C1 position of the at least one C 5 to C 7 saccharide unit.
- the at least one C 5 to C 7 saccharide unit is substituted with the at least one amino group at the C2 position of the at least one C 5 to C saccharide unit.
- Non-limiting examples of the at least one compound include C 5 monosaccharides substituted with at least one amino group, C ⁇ monosaccharides substituted with at least one amino group, C 7 monosaccharides substituted with at least one amino group, polymers comprising at least one C 5 monosaccharide substituted with at least one amino group, polymers comprising at least one C ⁇ monosaccharide substituted with at least one amino group, polymers comprising at least one C monosaccharide substituted with at least one amino group, and glycoproteins comprising at least one C 5 to C saccharide unit substituted with at least one amino group.
- the at least one compound is chosen from oligosaccharides derived from the at least one C5 to C 7 saccharide unit substituted with at least one amino group which may be further substituted with at least one group different from the at least one amino group.
- C 5 monosaccharides substituted with at least one amino group are pentosamines.
- the pentosamines are chosen from aldopentosamines and ketopentosamines (such as xylosamine, arabinosamine, lyxosamine, ribosamine, ribulosamine and xylulosamine).
- Non-limiting examples of C$ monosaccharides substituted with at least one amino group include hexosamines (such as aldohexosamines and ketohexosamines).
- hexosamines are chosen from glucosamine, galactosamine, allosamine, altrosamine, mannosamine, gulosamine, idosamine, galactosamine, and talosamine.
- the at least one compound is glucosamine, and in another embodiment, is galactosamine.
- Non-limiting examples of C 7 monosaccharides substituted with at least one amino group are heptosamines.
- heptosamines may be chosen from aldoheptosamines and ketoheptosamines.
- the at least one compound comprising at least one C 5 to C 7 saccharide unit substituted with at least one amino group is present in the composition in an amount generally ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and in another embodiment from 0.1% to 5% by weight.
- compositions of the present invention as well as those of the inventive methods may further comprise at least one additional sugar which is different from the at least one compound comprising at least one C5 to C saccharide unit substituted with at least one amino group.
- the at least one additional sugar may, for example, aid in moisture retention.
- the effectiveness of a sugar in aiding in moisture retention may be measured by monitoring the DSC peak at a temperature ranging from 75°C to 200°C.
- the at least one additional sugar may be chosen from any sugar, carbohydrate and carbohydrate moiety.
- Non-limiting examples of the at least one additional sugar are monosaccharides, which include, but are not limited to, three to seven carbon sugars such as pentoses (for example, ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, ribulose, and xylulose) and hexoses (for example, allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, sorbose, psicose, fructose, and tagatose); oligosaccharides such as disaccharides (such as maltose, sucrose, cellobiose, trehalose and lactose); and polysaccharides such as starch, dextrins, cellulose and glycogen.
- the at least one additional sugar of the invention is chosen from any aldoses and ketoses.
- the at least one additional sugar may be substituted or unsubstituted.
- the at least one additional sugar may be substituted with at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain.
- the at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain is chosen from linear, branched and cyclic Ci to C 22 carbon chains, which are saturated or unsaturated.
- the at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain may be chosen from C 16 to C1 8 carbon chains (such as C16 carbon chains and C 18 carbon chains).
- C1 6 carbon chains may be chosen from linear hexadecyl chains and C18 carbon chains may be chosen from linear octadecyl chains.
- the at least one additional sugar is substituted with at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain at the C1 position of the at least additional one sugar.
- the at least one additional sugar is present in the composition in an amount generally ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.1% to 5% by weight.
- compositions of the present invention and those used in the methods of the present invention may be in the form of a liquid, an oil, a paste, a stick, a dispersion, an emulsion, a lotion, a gel, or a cream. Further, these compositions may further comprise at least one suitable additive chosen from additives commonly used in compositions for keratinous fibers.
- Non-limiting examples of the at least one suitable additive include anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, fragrances, penetrating agents, antioxidants, sequestering agents, opacifying agents, solubilizing agents, emollients, colorants, screening agents (such as sunscreens and UV filters), preserving agents, proteins, vitamins, silicones, polymers such as thickening polymers, plant oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils and any other additive conventionally used in compositions for the care and/or treatment of keratinous fibers. Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the at least one suitable additive such that the advantageous properties of the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the addition(s) envisaged.
- compositions of the present invention and those used in the methods of the present invention may also be provided as one-part compositions comprising at least one compound chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides substituted with at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain and compounds comprising at least one C 5 to C 7 saccharide unit substituted with at least one amino group and, optionally, at least one additional sugar, and further, optionally, at least one film forming agent, or in the form of a multi- component treatment or kit.
- the skilled artisan based on the stability of the composition and the application envisaged, will be able to determine how the composition and/or multicomponent compositions should be stored and mixed.
- simple sugars such as C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides are known to be stable at pH levels ranging from 4 to 9.
- the sugars would be stored separately and added to the composition only at the time of application.
- the present invention also relates to a kit for protecting at least one keratinous fiber from extrinsic damage or for repairing at least one keratinous fiber following extrinsic damage comprising at least one compartment, wherein a first compartment comprises a first composition comprising at least one compound chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides substituted with at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain.
- the first composition further comprises at least one additional sugar, different from the at least one compound, while in another embodiment, the first composition further comprises at least one film forming agent.
- the at least one compound suitable for the present invention is a mixture of pentoses substituted with at least one Ci to C 22 carbon chain.
- XYLIANCE brand modified pentoses is a blend of hexadecyl glycosides and octacjecyl glycosides wherein the glycosides comprise D-xylosides, L-arabinosides, and D-glucosides.
- XYLIANCE may be obtained from Soliance, Route de Bazancourt - 51110 Pomade, France.
- the present invention also relates to a kit for protecting at least one keratinous fiber from extrinsic damage or for repairing at least one keratinous fiber following extrinsic damage comprising at least one compartment, wherein a first compartment comprises a first composition comprising at least one compound comprising at least one C 5 to C saccharide unit substituted with at least one amino group.
- the first composition further comprises at least one additional sugar, different from the at least one compound.
- a swatch of Caucasian hair dark blonde, coarse and wavy, 5 inches long and cut from the root, was tested.
- the hair had never been treated in any way that would cause changes in its chemical composition such as perming, relaxing, or coloring.
- the hair had only been subject to shampoo, conditioner (including oil treatment), styling aids, and blow drying, as well as the normal conditions of nature.
- the swatch was divided into two sections, each 2.5 inches in length. For the
- the hair was cut in small fragments (1-2 mm) and sealed in 40 ml aluminum pans that were punctured prior to heating, resulting in a 50 micron laser-drilled opening in the pan lid.
- the hair was heated from 25°C to 300°C at a heating rate of 20°C/min.
- Three runs per section were performed. The results were averaged and standard deviations determined.
- the two sections were also tested for wet tensile strength using the fiber tensile testing instrument Dia-Stron (50 fibers per test). The following parameters were determined: Young's Modulus (the spring constant, measured in N/m 2 ); Work to stretch the hair fiber 25% of its length (J/m 2 ); Extension to Break (how far hair can be stretched before breaking, measured in % of hair length); Work to Break (J/m 2 ).
- the following examples shows the ability of modified pentoses to protect the internal structure of hair when applied to at least one keratinous fiber and the at least one keratinous fiber is heated.
- Bleached hair swatches (2 g., 6.5-7.5 in.) were treated with alcoholic solutions that contained 3% Amphomer LV-71 ; and 3% Amphomer LV-71 and 1% XYLIANCE (modified pentoses as described above). The hair was then blow dried, and styled with a curling iron for 1 minute. The middle and the tip portion of the hair were analyzed by DSC. The results are shown in Table 5.
- the hair was shampooed with a 10% solution of sodium laureth sulfate after each heat cycle, that is, after the heat application and prior to application of the treatment solution.
- the treatment solutions included: a) deionized water; and b) 1% (w/v) glucosamine hydrochloride (Glucosamine HCI).
- the hair was tested for wet tensile strength using a Dia-Stron.
- the fibers were stretched in water at a rate of 10 mm/min., with 50 fibers per test. The results were averaged, and standard deviations determined.
- Young's modulus corresponds to the initial resistance of the hair to the applied pulling force
- "Work 25 %” is the work required to extend the hair fiber to 25% of its length
- "Break Extension” is the hair extension observed at the breaking point expressed at percent of its original length
- Work-Break is the work required to break the hair.
- Table 6 The results are shown in Table 6.
- the hair swatches from Example 3 were studied by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC).
- DSC differential scanning calorimetry
- the hair was equilibrated at standard room temperature and humidity for 24 hours prior to testing. The results are shown in Table 7.
- the heat treatment was as described in Example 3.
- the heat-treated hair was tested by DSC (Perkin Elmer Pyris 1 DSC) as described in Example 1.
- the hair was tested after Cycles 6 and 12.
- the treatment solutions included: a) deionized water, b) 0.001% (w/v) glucosamine hydrochloride solution, c) 0.010% (w/v) glucosamine hydrochloride solution, d) 0.100% (w/v) glucosamine hydrochloride solution, and e) 1.000% (w/v) glucosamine hydrochloride solution.
- the heat-treated hair was tested by DSC (Perkin Elmer Pyris 1 DSC) as described in Example 1.
- the treatment solutions included: a) deionized water, and b) 1.0% (w/v) galactosamine hydrochloride.
- the lyxosylamine solution protected the - structure hair, as compared to the control solution (deionized water).
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Abstract
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Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| AU2002309092A AU2002309092A1 (en) | 2001-03-30 | 2002-03-29 | Compositions comprising at least one saccharide type compound and their use for the protection and/or repair of hair |
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| US09/820,954 | 2001-03-30 | ||
| US09/820,812 | 2001-03-30 | ||
| US09/820,812 US7201894B2 (en) | 2001-03-30 | 2001-03-30 | Compositions comprising at least one C1 to C22 substituted C3 to C5 monosaccharide, and their use for the protection title and/or repair of keratinous fibers |
| US09/820,954 US7431937B2 (en) | 2001-03-30 | 2001-03-30 | Compositions comprising at least one aminated C5-C7 saccharide unit, and their use for the protection and/or repair of keratinous fibers |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| WO2002078649A2 true WO2002078649A2 (en) | 2002-10-10 |
| WO2002078649A3 WO2002078649A3 (en) | 2002-12-12 |
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Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/IB2002/002075 WO2002078649A2 (en) | 2001-03-30 | 2002-03-29 | Compositions comprising at least one saccharide type compound and their use for the protection and/or repair of hair |
Country Status (2)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| AU (1) | AU2002309092A1 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2002078649A2 (en) |
Cited By (7)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2004037217A1 (en) * | 2002-10-22 | 2004-05-06 | L'oreal | Heat activated durable styling compositions comprising saccharide type compounds and film forming agents |
| KR100906588B1 (en) * | 2005-04-20 | 2009-07-09 | 로레알 | Heat activated durable styling compositions comprising saccharide type compounds and film forming agents |
| WO2011039160A3 (en) * | 2009-10-01 | 2012-06-07 | Akzo Nobel Chemicals International B.V. | Compositions and method for thermal protection of hair |
| WO2016074966A1 (en) * | 2014-11-13 | 2016-05-19 | Unilever Plc | Method of improving hair volume |
| US10034824B2 (en) | 2014-11-13 | 2018-07-31 | Conopco, Inc. | Hair shaping composition |
| FR3070269A1 (en) * | 2017-08-31 | 2019-03-01 | L'oreal | PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS FROM AMINO GROUP MONOSACCHARIDE, AMINE GROUP POLYSACCHARIDE THEN HEAT |
| CN112545912A (en) * | 2019-09-11 | 2021-03-26 | 无限极(中国)有限公司 | Novel application of L-fucose |
Family Cites Families (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPS5939183A (en) * | 1982-08-27 | 1984-03-03 | Shimadzu Corp | Digital subtraction system |
| US4542014A (en) * | 1982-12-03 | 1985-09-17 | The Gillette Company | Hair treating composition |
| US6156295A (en) * | 1994-05-10 | 2000-12-05 | Neutrogena Corporation | Heat-safe hair preparation and method of using same |
| WO1998042348A1 (en) * | 1997-03-25 | 1998-10-01 | Wilson Trafton Crandall | Topical moisturizing composition and method |
| US6159485A (en) * | 1999-01-08 | 2000-12-12 | Yugenic Limited Partnership | N-acetyl aldosamines, n-acetylamino acids and related n-acetyl compounds and their topical use |
-
2002
- 2002-03-29 WO PCT/IB2002/002075 patent/WO2002078649A2/en not_active Application Discontinuation
- 2002-03-29 AU AU2002309092A patent/AU2002309092A1/en not_active Abandoned
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|---|---|---|---|---|
| US8697143B2 (en) | 2002-10-22 | 2014-04-15 | L'oreal | Heat activated durable styling compositions comprising saccharide type compounds and film forming agents |
| CN100482199C (en) * | 2002-10-22 | 2009-04-29 | 莱雅公司 | Heat-activated durable styling composition containing saccharide compound and film-forming agent |
| WO2004037217A1 (en) * | 2002-10-22 | 2004-05-06 | L'oreal | Heat activated durable styling compositions comprising saccharide type compounds and film forming agents |
| KR100906588B1 (en) * | 2005-04-20 | 2009-07-09 | 로레알 | Heat activated durable styling compositions comprising saccharide type compounds and film forming agents |
| US9119972B2 (en) | 2009-10-01 | 2015-09-01 | Akzo Nobel Chemicals International B.V. | Compositions and method for thermal protection of hair |
| CN102791250A (en) * | 2009-10-01 | 2012-11-21 | 阿克佐诺贝尔化学国际公司 | Compositions and methods for thermal protection of hair |
| WO2011039160A3 (en) * | 2009-10-01 | 2012-06-07 | Akzo Nobel Chemicals International B.V. | Compositions and method for thermal protection of hair |
| US9446266B2 (en) | 2009-10-01 | 2016-09-20 | Akzo Nobel Chemicals International B.V. | Compositions and method for thermal protection of hair |
| WO2016074966A1 (en) * | 2014-11-13 | 2016-05-19 | Unilever Plc | Method of improving hair volume |
| US10034824B2 (en) | 2014-11-13 | 2018-07-31 | Conopco, Inc. | Hair shaping composition |
| US10813868B2 (en) | 2014-11-13 | 2020-10-27 | Conopco, Inc. | Method of improving hair volume |
| EA038006B1 (en) * | 2014-11-13 | 2021-06-22 | ЮНИЛЕВЕР АйПи ХОЛДИНГС Б.В. | Method of improving hair volume |
| FR3070269A1 (en) * | 2017-08-31 | 2019-03-01 | L'oreal | PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS FROM AMINO GROUP MONOSACCHARIDE, AMINE GROUP POLYSACCHARIDE THEN HEAT |
| WO2019043032A1 (en) * | 2017-08-31 | 2019-03-07 | L'oreal | Process for treating keratin fibers using a monosaccharide with amine group, a polysaccharide with amine group and a step of heat treatment |
| CN112545912A (en) * | 2019-09-11 | 2021-03-26 | 无限极(中国)有限公司 | Novel application of L-fucose |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| WO2002078649A3 (en) | 2002-12-12 |
| AU2002309092A1 (en) | 2002-10-15 |
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