US20090320869A1 - Methods for preventing reversion of relaxed keratinous fibers and for relaxing keratinous fibers - Google Patents
Methods for preventing reversion of relaxed keratinous fibers and for relaxing keratinous fibers Download PDFInfo
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- US20090320869A1 US20090320869A1 US12/491,059 US49105909A US2009320869A1 US 20090320869 A1 US20090320869 A1 US 20090320869A1 US 49105909 A US49105909 A US 49105909A US 2009320869 A1 US2009320869 A1 US 2009320869A1
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- UJCVTRUPEQMKCY-UHFFFAOYSA-N C.C.CS.CS.CSSC.O Chemical compound C.C.CS.CS.CSSC.O UJCVTRUPEQMKCY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
Definitions
- the present invention relates to methods for preventing reversion of at least one relaxed keratinous fiber and to methods and kits for relaxing at least one keratinous fiber, including human keratinous fibers, comprising at least one sugar chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides and derivatives thereof.
- Hair fiber is a keratinous material which comprises proteins (polypeptides). Many of the polypeptides in hair fibers are bonded together or cross-linked with disulfide bonds (—S—S—). A disulfide bond may be formed from the reaction of two sulfhydryl groups (—SH), one on each of two cysteine residues, which results in the formation of a cystine residue. A cystine residue comprises a cross-link of the formula —CH 2 —S—S—CH 2 — between 2 polypeptides. While there are other types of bonds which occur between the polypeptides in hair fibers, such as ionic (salt) bonds, the permanent curling or shape of the hair is essentially dependent on the disulfide bonds of cystine residues.
- hair relaxers which can relax or straighten naturally curly or kinky hair. Straightening or relaxing the curls of very curly hair may increase the manageability and ease of styling of such hair. Hair relaxers may either be applied in a hair salon by a professional or in the home by the individual consumer.
- hair relaxing processes are chemical processes which may alter the aforementioned disulfide bonds between polypeptides in hair fibers and may form lanthionine residues [S[CH 2 CH(NH—)(CO—)] 2 ].
- lanthionizing is used when one skilled in the art refers to the relaxing of keratinous fibers.
- hair fibers may be relaxed or straightened by disrupting the disulfide bonds of the hair fibers with an alkaline or reducing agent.
- the chemical disruption of disulfide bonds with such an agent is generally combined with mechanical straightening of the hair, such as combing, and straightening generally occurs due to changes in the relative positions of neighboring polypeptide chains within the hair fiber. This reaction is generally terminated by rinsing and/or application of a neutralizing composition.
- compositions are in the form of gels or emulsions that contain varying proportions of strong water-soluble bases, such as sodium hydroxide (NaOH), or of compositions that contain slightly-soluble metal hydroxides, such as calcium hydroxide (Ca(OH) 2 ), which can be converted in situ to soluble bases, such as guanidine hydroxide.
- strong water-soluble bases such as sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
- slightly-soluble metal hydroxides such as calcium hydroxide (Ca(OH) 2 )
- Ca(OH) 2 slightly-soluble metal hydroxides
- guanidine hydroxide such as guanidine hydroxide
- Reducing agents such as compounds comprising at least one thiol group may also relax or straighten hair by disrupting disulfide bonds of the hair fibers. More commonly, reducing agents, such as thioglycolates, sulfites, cysteines and their derivatives, are used for texturizing purposes in hair straightening or relaxing compositions.
- the reducing step is generally a reversible reduction reaction of disulfide bonds within a keratinous fiber.
- the reaction of a thiol-containing reducing agent, RSH, with hair can be represented by the following reaction scheme, wherein k represents the keratin protein chain of a keratinous fiber:
- the neutralizing step can be represented by the following reaction scheme:
- a high concentration of reducing agent may result in hair damage and a low concentration may result in reversion of the hair to its original curly state. Accordingly, a composition which prevents the reversion of relaxed hair is desirable.
- Sugars and sugar derivatives are one class of the countless number of compounds that have been added to hair care compositions.
- Documented uses of sugars in hair care compositions include: the use of glucose to improve the tactile and elastic properties of natural hair (Hollenberg and Mueller, SOFW J. 121(2) (1995)); the use of glucose for hair damage prophylaxis and damaged hair repair (Hollenberg & Matzik, Seifen, Oele, Fette, Wachase 117(1) (1991)); the use of glucose in shampoos (J04266812, assigned to Lion Corp.); the use of trehalose for moisture retention (J06122614, assigned to Shiseido Co. Ltd.); a composition for the lanthionization of hair comprising a sugar (U.S. Pat.
- the inventors have envisaged the application to at least one relaxed keratinous fiber of at least one composition comprising at least one sugar chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides and derivatives thereof.
- methods comprising applying these compositions to at least one relaxed keratinous fiber and heating the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber prevent reversion of the relaxed hair to a curly or wavy state.
- the present invention in one aspect, provides a method for relaxing keratinous fibers without substantial reversion to the original curly state of the hair using relaxing compositions and compositions comprising at least one sugar chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides and derivatives thereof.
- the present invention provides, in one embodiment, a method for preventing reversion of at least one relaxed keratinous fiber comprising (i) applying to at least one relaxed keratinous fiber a composition comprising at least one sugar chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides and derivatives thereof; and (ii) heating the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber, wherein the at least one sugar is present in an amount effective to prevent reversion of the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber, and further wherein the composition is applied prior to or during heating.
- the inventive method further comprises wetting the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber with water prior to application of the composition.
- the inventive method further comprises rinsing the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber subsequent to heating.
- the composition is heat-activated.
- the present invention also provides a method for lanthionizing keratinous fibers to achieve relaxation of at least one keratinous fiber comprising (i) applying at least one relaxing composition to at least one keratinous fiber for a sufficient period of time to lanthionize said at least one keratinous fiber; (ii) rinsing the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber; (iii) applying to the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber a composition comprising at least one sugar chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides and derivatives thereof; and (iv) heating the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber, wherein the at least one sugar is present in an amount effective to prevent reversion of the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber, and further wherein the composition is applied prior to or during heating.
- the at least one relaxing composition comprises at least one reducing agent chosen from hydroxide compounds, thiols, sulfites, and derivatives thereof.
- kits for lanthionizing keratinous fibers wherein the kit comprises at least two compartments.
- a first compartment of the kit contains at least one relaxing composition and a second compartment contains at least one sugar chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides and derivatives thereof.
- “at least one” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
- Heating refers to the use of elevated temperature (i.e., above 45° C.). In one embodiment, “heating refers to the use of temperatures above 100° C., such as above 200° C.
- the heating in the inventive method may be provided by directly contacting the keratinous fibers with a heat source, e.g., by heat styling of the keratinous fibers. Non-limiting examples of heat styling by direct contact with the keratinous fibers include flat ironing, and curling methods using elevated temperatures (such as, for example, curling with a curling iron and/or hot rollers).
- the heating in the inventive method may be provided by heating the keratinous fibers with a heat source which may not directly contact the keratinous fibers. Non-limiting examples of heat sources which may not directly contact the keratinous fibers include blow dryers, hood dryers, heating caps and steamers.
- Keratinous fibers as defined herein may be human keratin fibers, and may be chosen from, for example, hair.
- “Lanthionizing,” as used herein, refers to the formation of at least one lanthionine residue, which may accomplish any level of relaxation, for example, from slight relaxing to straightening.
- Relaxation includes any level of relaxing resulting from lanthionization of hair, for example, from slight relaxing to straightening.
- a “relaxing composition,” as used herein, refers to compositions, also called “hair relaxers,” which can relax or straighten naturally curly, wavy and/or kinky hair. Relaxing compositions may either be applied in a hair salon by a professional or in the home by the individual consumer.
- Reversion of at least one relaxed keratinous fiber, as used herein, refers to at least partial return of the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber hair toward the original curly, wavy, and/or kinky state which it was in prior to relaxation.
- compositions comprising at least one sugar chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides were found to prevent reversion of relaxed hair.
- these compositions may impart to at least one keratinous fiber a higher degree of relaxation or a more permanent degree or relaxation even after exposure to high humidity, which is known to cause reversion of relaxed hair. This is particularly true when the compositions are applied to the hair, and the hair is then heated.
- the invention provides a method for preventing reversion of at least one relaxed keratinous fiber comprising (i) applying to at least one relaxed keratinous fiber a composition comprising at least one sugar chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides and derivatives thereof; and (ii) heating the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber, wherein the at least one sugar is present in an amount effective to prevent reversion of the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber, and further wherein the composition is applied prior to or during heating.
- the inventive method further comprises wetting the at least one keratinous fiber with water prior to application.
- the inventive method further comprises rinsing the at least one keratinous fiber subsequent to heating.
- the composition is heat-activated.
- the composition may further comprise at least one additional sugar.
- the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber is heated at 130° C. for 10 seconds. In another embodiment, the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber is heated at 180° C. for 3 seconds.
- the C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides according to the present invention may be chosen from any triose, tetrose and pentose. (Nomenclature: C3-triose, C4-tetrose, C5-pentose). Further, the C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides can be chosen from the D-form, L-form and mixtures of any of the foregoing.
- Non-limiting examples of C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides include aldopentoses (such as xylose, arabinose, lyxose, and ribose), ketopentoses (such as ribulose and xylulose), aldotetroses (such as erythrose and treose), ketotetroses (such as erythrulose), aldotrioses (such as glyceraldehyde) and ketotrioses (such as dihydroxyacetone).
- the C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides may be chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides comprising aldehyde groups (aldoses), furanoses and other ring structures.
- the C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides may be substituted or unsubstituted.
- Derivatives of C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides may be used as the at least one sugar of the present invention.
- ammonias or primary amines may react with the aldehyde or ketone group of a sugar to form an imine derivative (i.e., a compound containing the functional group C ⁇ N).
- imine compounds are sometimes also referred to as Schiff bases.
- Other non-limiting examples of derivatives of C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides are hemiacetal derivatives of C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides, hemiketal derivatives of C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides and any oxidized derivatives of C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides.
- C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides may be formed, for example, from the reaction of the aldehyde or ketone group of a sugar with an alcohol.
- Other exemplary derivatives of C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides may also include, but are not limited to, oligosaccharides derived from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides.
- the at least one sugar chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides may be substituted or unsubstituted.
- the derivatives of C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides may be substituted or unsubstituted.
- the at least one sugar is present in the composition in an amount generally ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.1% to 5% by weight.
- an “amount effective to prevent reversion” of the at least one sugar may be determined according to Examples 1-6.
- compositions of the present invention as well as those of the inventive methods may further comprise at least one additional sugar which is different from the at least one sugar chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides.
- the at least one additional sugar may, for example, aid in moisture retention.
- the at least one additional sugar may be chosen from any sugar, carbohydrate or carbohydrate moiety.
- Non-limiting examples of the at least one additional sugar are monosaccharides, which include, but are not limited to, three to seven carbon sugars such as pentoses (for example, ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, ribulose, and xylulose) and hexoses (for example, allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, sorbose, psicose, fructose, and tagatose); oligosaccharides such as disaccharides (such as maltose, sucrose, cellobiose, trehalose and lactose); and polysaccharides such as starch, dextrins, cellulose and glycogen.
- the at least one additional sugar is chosen from any aldoses and ketoses. Further, the at least
- the at least one additional sugar is present in the composition in an amount generally ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.1% to 5% by weight.
- compositions of the present invention as well as those used in the methods of the present invention may be in the form of a liquid, an oil, a paste, a stick, a dispersion, an emulsion, a lotion, a gel, or a cream.
- inventive compositions may further comprise at least one solvent.
- Non-limiting examples of the at least one solvent include water and organic solvents.
- Non-limiting examples of organic solvents include C 1 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; glycols and glycol ethers, such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl and monomethyl ether, and aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
- compositions may also comprise at least one suitable additive chosen from additives commonly used in compositions for keratinous fibers.
- suitable additives include anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, fragrances, penetrating agents, antioxidants, sequestering agents, opacifying agents, solubilizing agents, emollients, colorants, screening agents (such as sunscreens and UV filters), preserving agents, conditioning agents, proteins, vitamins, silicones, polymers such as thickening polymers, plant oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils and any other additive conventionally used in compositions for the care and/or treatment of keratinous fibers.
- composition comprising the at least one sugar according to the present invention generally has a pH ranging from 2 to 10. In an embodiment, the pH of the composition ranges from 3 to 8, such as from 5 to 7.
- compositions used in the methods and kits of the present invention may also be provided as one-part compositions comprising at least one compound comprising at least one sugar chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides, and, optionally, at least one additional sugar, or in the form of a multi-component treatment or kit, for example, further comprising at least one relaxing composition.
- the skilled artisan based on the stability of the composition and the application envisaged, will be able to determine how the composition and/or multicomponent compositions should be stored and mixed.
- simple sugars such as C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides are known to be stable at pH levels ranging from 4 to 9. In compositions where the pH range is below or above these levels, e.g., as in a traditional relaxing composition, the sugars would be stored separately and added to the composition only at the time of application.
- the present invention also relates to a kit for relaxing at least one keratinous fiber comprising at least two compartments, wherein a first compartment comprises a first composition comprising at least one sugar chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides and derivatives thereof; and a second composition comprises a second composition comprising at least one relaxing composition.
- at least one composition further comprises at least one additional sugar, different from the at least one sugar chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides and derivatives thereof.
- the present invention also provides a method for lanthionizing keratinous fibers to achieve relaxation of at least one keratinous fiber comprising (i) applying at least one relaxing composition to at least one keratinous fiber for a sufficient period of time to lanthionize said at least one keratinous fiber; (ii) rinsing the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber; (iii) applying to the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber a composition comprising at least one sugar chosen from C 3 to C 5 monosaccharides and derivatives thereof; and (iv) heating the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber, wherein the at least one sugar is present in an amount effective to prevent reversion of the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber, and further wherein the composition is applied prior to or during heating.
- the at least one relaxing composition comprises at least one reducing agent chosen from hydroxide compounds, thiols, sulfites, and derivatives thereof.
- the at least one reducing agent is present in a concentration ranging from 4% to 20% by weight of the total weight of said at least one relaxing composition.
- the at least one reducing agent is present in a concentration ranging from 7% to 12% by weight of the total weight of said at least one relaxing composition.
- Virgin African-American (kinky) hair was processed and 2.5% sodium hydroxide for 20 min at room temperature. Next, the sodium hydroxide solution was washed off, the swatch was profusely rinsed with tepid water, and the treatment solution was applied for 5 min at room temperature.
- the treatment solutions included: water; 1% D-xylose; and 5% D-xylose.
- % straightening The percent hair straightening (“% straightening”) was determined as follows:
- Virgin African-American (kinky) hair was processed with different concentrations of sodium hydroxide for 20 min at room temperature: 1.0%, 1.5%, 2.0%, and 2.5% NaOH, respectively.
- the sodium hydroxide solution was washed off, the swatch was profusely rinsed with tepid water, and the treatment solution was applied for 5 min at room temperature.
- the treatment solutions included water and 5% D-xylose.
- the swatch was briefly rinsed to remove an excess of the treatment solution from the hair surface, blow-dried, and heat was applied in the form of a flat iron for 1 min (130° C.).
- the heat-treated swatch was rinsed with tepid water, air-dried at 50% RH (25° C.), and maintained for 24 h at 90% RH (25° C.). The percent hair straightening was determined as in Example 1.
- Virgin African-American (kinky) hair was processed with 2.0% sodium hydroxide for 20 min at room. Next, the sodium hydroxide solution was washed off, the swatch was profusely rinsed with tepid water, and the treatment solution was applied for 10 min at 45° C.
- the treatment solutions included: buffer solution, pH 2.0; buffer solution, pH 6.0; buffer solution, pH 10.0; 5% D-xylose, pH 2.0; 5% D-xylose, pH 6.5; and 5% D-xylose, pH 10.
- the solutions were buffered using phosphoric acid and sodium hydroxide.
- the swatch was briefly rinsed to remove an excess of the treatment solution from the hair surface, blow-dried, and heat was applied in the form of a flat iron for 1 min. (130° C.).
- the heat-treated swatch was rinsed with tepid water, air-dried at 50% RH (25° C.), and maintained for 24 h at 90% RH (25° C.). The percent hair straightening was determined as in Example 1.
- Virgin African-American (kinky) hair was processed with an alkali relaxer as follows.
- the commercial cream relaxer was applied to a swatch of hair for 10 min at room temperature. Next, the cream was washed off, the swatch was profusely rinsed with tepid water, and the treatment solution was applied for 5 min.
- the treatment solutions included water; 1% D-xylose; 3% D-xylose; and 5% D-xylose.
- the swatch was briefly rinsed to remove an excess of the treatment solution from the hair surface, blow-dried, and heat was applied in the form of a flat iron for 1 min (175° C.).
- the heat-treated swatch was rinsed with tepid water, air-dried at 50% RH (25° C.), and maintained for 1 h at 100% RH (25° C.). The percent hair straightening was determined as in Example 1.
- the data show that post-treatment with a D-xylose solution prevented reversion of the relaxed hair at various concentrations of D-xylose, as compared to a post-treatment with water.
- Virgin African-American (kinky) hair was processed with a commercial thioglycolate cream relaxer as follows.
- the thioglycolate cream relaxer was applied to a swatch of kinky hair for 15 min at room temperature (reduced hair). Next, the thioglycolate cream was washed off, the swatch was profusely rinsed with tepid water, and a hydrogen peroxide cream was applied for 5 min.
- the treatment solutions were applied either between the rinsing of the thioglycolate cream relaxer and the application of the hydrogen peroxide cream, or after the application of the hydrogen peroxide cream, respectively.
- the treatment solutions was applied for 5 min at room temperature.
- the swatch was briefly rinsed to remove an excess of the treatment solution from the hair surface, blow-dried, and heat was applied in the form of a flat iron for 30 sec (175° C.).
- the heat-treated swatch was rinsed with tepid water, air-dried at 50% RH (25° C.), and maintained for 1 h at 100% RH (25° C.).
- the percent hair straightening was determined as in Example 1.
- the data show that post-treatment with a D-xylose solution prevented reversion while using a thioglycolate hair relaxer.
Abstract
Methods for preventing reversion of at least one relaxed keratinous fiber and for relaxing at least one keratinous fiber comprising applying compositions comprising at least one sugar chosen from C3 to C5 monosaccharides and heating at least one keratinous fiber.
Description
- The present invention relates to methods for preventing reversion of at least one relaxed keratinous fiber and to methods and kits for relaxing at least one keratinous fiber, including human keratinous fibers, comprising at least one sugar chosen from C3 to C5 monosaccharides and derivatives thereof.
- Hair fiber is a keratinous material which comprises proteins (polypeptides). Many of the polypeptides in hair fibers are bonded together or cross-linked with disulfide bonds (—S—S—). A disulfide bond may be formed from the reaction of two sulfhydryl groups (—SH), one on each of two cysteine residues, which results in the formation of a cystine residue. A cystine residue comprises a cross-link of the formula —CH2—S—S—CH2— between 2 polypeptides. While there are other types of bonds which occur between the polypeptides in hair fibers, such as ionic (salt) bonds, the permanent curling or shape of the hair is essentially dependent on the disulfide bonds of cystine residues.
- In today's market, there is an increasing demand for the hair care products referred to as “hair relaxers,” which can relax or straighten naturally curly or kinky hair. Straightening or relaxing the curls of very curly hair may increase the manageability and ease of styling of such hair. Hair relaxers may either be applied in a hair salon by a professional or in the home by the individual consumer.
- Generally, hair relaxing processes are chemical processes which may alter the aforementioned disulfide bonds between polypeptides in hair fibers and may form lanthionine residues [S[CH2CH(NH—)(CO—)]2]. Thus, the term “lanthionizing” is used when one skilled in the art refers to the relaxing of keratinous fibers. For example, hair fibers may be relaxed or straightened by disrupting the disulfide bonds of the hair fibers with an alkaline or reducing agent. The chemical disruption of disulfide bonds with such an agent is generally combined with mechanical straightening of the hair, such as combing, and straightening generally occurs due to changes in the relative positions of neighboring polypeptide chains within the hair fiber. This reaction is generally terminated by rinsing and/or application of a neutralizing composition.
- Most frequently, commercial relaxing compositions are in the form of gels or emulsions that contain varying proportions of strong water-soluble bases, such as sodium hydroxide (NaOH), or of compositions that contain slightly-soluble metal hydroxides, such as calcium hydroxide (Ca(OH)2), which can be converted in situ to soluble bases, such as guanidine hydroxide. Traditionally, the two main hair relaxers used in the hair care industry for generating hydroxide ions are referred to as “lye” (lye=sodium hydroxide) relaxers and “no lye” relaxers, such as potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and calcium hydroxide.
- Reducing agents such as compounds comprising at least one thiol group may also relax or straighten hair by disrupting disulfide bonds of the hair fibers. More commonly, reducing agents, such as thioglycolates, sulfites, cysteines and their derivatives, are used for texturizing purposes in hair straightening or relaxing compositions.
- The reducing step is generally a reversible reduction reaction of disulfide bonds within a keratinous fiber. For example, the reaction of a thiol-containing reducing agent, RSH, with hair can be represented by the following reaction scheme, wherein k represents the keratin protein chain of a keratinous fiber:
-
k-CH2—S—S—CH2-k+RSH≈k-CH2—S—S—R+k-CH2—SH (I) -
k-CH2—S—S—R+RSH≈kCH2—SH+RS—SR (II) - Generally, the disulfide product, RS—SR, and any residual reducing agent, RSH, are rinsed from the hair, and then the disulfide bonds are restored in the neutralizing step. The neutralizing step can be represented by the following reaction scheme:
- With both hydroxide-containing alkaline agents and thiol-containing reducing agent, a high concentration of reducing agent may result in hair damage and a low concentration may result in reversion of the hair to its original curly state. Accordingly, a composition which prevents the reversion of relaxed hair is desirable.
- Sugars and sugar derivatives are one class of the countless number of compounds that have been added to hair care compositions. Documented uses of sugars in hair care compositions include: the use of glucose to improve the tactile and elastic properties of natural hair (Hollenberg and Mueller, SOFW J. 121(2) (1995)); the use of glucose for hair damage prophylaxis and damaged hair repair (Hollenberg & Matzik, Seifen, Oele, Fette, Wachase 117(1) (1991)); the use of glucose in shampoos (J04266812, assigned to Lion Corp.); the use of trehalose for moisture retention (J06122614, assigned to Shiseido Co. Ltd.); a composition for the lanthionization of hair comprising a sugar (U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,348,737 and 5,641,477, assigned to Avlon Ind. Inc.); the incorporation of xylobiose into cosmetic compositions to provide enhanced moisture retention and reduce excessive roughness and dryness of the skin and hair (U.S. Pat. No. 5,660,838, assigned to Suntory Ltd.); a composition for the regeneration of hair split-ends that contains at least one mono- or di-saccharide (U.S. Pat. No. 4,900,545, assigned to Henkel); hair care compositions to improve hair strength, hold and volume that contain C5 to C6 carbohydrates such as glucose; the use of fucose in a hair treatment to prevent split ends (DE29709853, assigned to Goldwell GMBH); and the use of saccharides in a shampoo to improve combing properties and control hair damage (J09059134, assigned to Mikuchi Sangyo KK).
- In essence, sugars have been applied to hair for many reasons from moisturizing to enhancing hair growth (J10279439, assigned to Kureha Chem. Ind. Co. Ltd.). Clearly, however, not all sugars are the same and not all sugars impart the same properties when applied to a keratinous fiber.
- The inventors have envisaged the application to at least one relaxed keratinous fiber of at least one composition comprising at least one sugar chosen from C3 to C5 monosaccharides and derivatives thereof. In particular, the inventors have discovered that methods comprising applying these compositions to at least one relaxed keratinous fiber and heating the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber prevent reversion of the relaxed hair to a curly or wavy state.
- Thus, to achieve at least one of these and other advantages, the present invention, in one aspect, provides a method for relaxing keratinous fibers without substantial reversion to the original curly state of the hair using relaxing compositions and compositions comprising at least one sugar chosen from C3 to C5 monosaccharides and derivatives thereof.
- Thus, the present invention provides, in one embodiment, a method for preventing reversion of at least one relaxed keratinous fiber comprising (i) applying to at least one relaxed keratinous fiber a composition comprising at least one sugar chosen from C3 to C5 monosaccharides and derivatives thereof; and (ii) heating the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber, wherein the at least one sugar is present in an amount effective to prevent reversion of the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber, and further wherein the composition is applied prior to or during heating. In an embodiment, the inventive method further comprises wetting the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber with water prior to application of the composition. In an embodiment, the inventive method further comprises rinsing the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber subsequent to heating. In an embodiment, the composition is heat-activated.
- The present invention also provides a method for lanthionizing keratinous fibers to achieve relaxation of at least one keratinous fiber comprising (i) applying at least one relaxing composition to at least one keratinous fiber for a sufficient period of time to lanthionize said at least one keratinous fiber; (ii) rinsing the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber; (iii) applying to the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber a composition comprising at least one sugar chosen from C3 to C5 monosaccharides and derivatives thereof; and (iv) heating the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber, wherein the at least one sugar is present in an amount effective to prevent reversion of the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber, and further wherein the composition is applied prior to or during heating. In an embodiment, the at least one relaxing composition comprises at least one reducing agent chosen from hydroxide compounds, thiols, sulfites, and derivatives thereof.
- Further, the present invention also provides for a multicomponent kit for lanthionizing keratinous fibers, wherein the kit comprises at least two compartments. A first compartment of the kit contains at least one relaxing composition and a second compartment contains at least one sugar chosen from C3 to C5 monosaccharides and derivatives thereof.
- Certain terms used herein are defined below:
- As used herein, “at least one” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
- “Heating” refers to the use of elevated temperature (i.e., above 45° C.). In one embodiment, “heating refers to the use of temperatures above 100° C., such as above 200° C. In one embodiment, the heating in the inventive method may be provided by directly contacting the keratinous fibers with a heat source, e.g., by heat styling of the keratinous fibers. Non-limiting examples of heat styling by direct contact with the keratinous fibers include flat ironing, and curling methods using elevated temperatures (such as, for example, curling with a curling iron and/or hot rollers). In another embodiment, the heating in the inventive method may be provided by heating the keratinous fibers with a heat source which may not directly contact the keratinous fibers. Non-limiting examples of heat sources which may not directly contact the keratinous fibers include blow dryers, hood dryers, heating caps and steamers.
- “Keratinous fibers” as defined herein may be human keratin fibers, and may be chosen from, for example, hair.
- “Lanthionizing,” as used herein, refers to the formation of at least one lanthionine residue, which may accomplish any level of relaxation, for example, from slight relaxing to straightening.
- “Relaxation,” “relaxing,” and “relaxed” as used herein, includes any level of relaxing resulting from lanthionization of hair, for example, from slight relaxing to straightening.
- A “relaxing composition,” as used herein, refers to compositions, also called “hair relaxers,” which can relax or straighten naturally curly, wavy and/or kinky hair. Relaxing compositions may either be applied in a hair salon by a professional or in the home by the individual consumer.
- “Reversion” of at least one relaxed keratinous fiber, as used herein, refers to at least partial return of the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber hair toward the original curly, wavy, and/or kinky state which it was in prior to relaxation.
- It is to be understood that both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are exemplary and explanatory only and are not restrictive of the invention, as claimed. Reference will now be made in detail to exemplary embodiments of the present invention.
- As described above, sugars have been used in hair care compositions and other treatments for their moisture retaining properties. However, it was unexpectedly discovered by the present inventors that, in addition to retaining moisture, a certain class of sugars had other properties that made them particularly desirable for use on relaxed keratinous fibers. In particular with respect to hair, compositions comprising at least one sugar chosen from C3 to C5 monosaccharides were found to prevent reversion of relaxed hair. Thus, these compositions may impart to at least one keratinous fiber a higher degree of relaxation or a more permanent degree or relaxation even after exposure to high humidity, which is known to cause reversion of relaxed hair. This is particularly true when the compositions are applied to the hair, and the hair is then heated.
- Thus, the invention provides a method for preventing reversion of at least one relaxed keratinous fiber comprising (i) applying to at least one relaxed keratinous fiber a composition comprising at least one sugar chosen from C3 to C5 monosaccharides and derivatives thereof; and (ii) heating the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber, wherein the at least one sugar is present in an amount effective to prevent reversion of the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber, and further wherein the composition is applied prior to or during heating. In an embodiment, the inventive method further comprises wetting the at least one keratinous fiber with water prior to application. In an embodiment, the inventive method further comprises rinsing the at least one keratinous fiber subsequent to heating. In an embodiment, the composition is heat-activated. The composition may further comprise at least one additional sugar.
- In an embodiment, the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber is heated at 130° C. for 10 seconds. In another embodiment, the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber is heated at 180° C. for 3 seconds.
- The C3 to C5 monosaccharides according to the present invention may be chosen from any triose, tetrose and pentose. (Nomenclature: C3-triose, C4-tetrose, C5-pentose). Further, the C3 to C5 monosaccharides can be chosen from the D-form, L-form and mixtures of any of the foregoing. Non-limiting examples of C3 to C5 monosaccharides include aldopentoses (such as xylose, arabinose, lyxose, and ribose), ketopentoses (such as ribulose and xylulose), aldotetroses (such as erythrose and treose), ketotetroses (such as erythrulose), aldotrioses (such as glyceraldehyde) and ketotrioses (such as dihydroxyacetone). The C3 to C5 monosaccharides may be chosen from C3 to C5 monosaccharides comprising aldehyde groups (aldoses), furanoses and other ring structures. The C3 to C5 monosaccharides may be substituted or unsubstituted.
- Derivatives of C3 to C5 monosaccharides may be used as the at least one sugar of the present invention. For example, ammonias or primary amines may react with the aldehyde or ketone group of a sugar to form an imine derivative (i.e., a compound containing the functional group C═N). These imine compounds are sometimes also referred to as Schiff bases. Other non-limiting examples of derivatives of C3 to C5 monosaccharides are hemiacetal derivatives of C3 to C5 monosaccharides, hemiketal derivatives of C3 to C5 monosaccharides and any oxidized derivatives of C3 to C5 monosaccharides. These derivatives may be formed, for example, from the reaction of the aldehyde or ketone group of a sugar with an alcohol. Other exemplary derivatives of C3 to C5 monosaccharides may also include, but are not limited to, oligosaccharides derived from C3 to C5 monosaccharides. As previously mentioned, the at least one sugar chosen from C3 to C5 monosaccharides may be substituted or unsubstituted. Thus, in one embodiment, the derivatives of C3 to C5 monosaccharides may be substituted or unsubstituted.
- According to the present invention, the at least one sugar is present in the composition in an amount generally ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.1% to 5% by weight. According to the present invention, an “amount effective to prevent reversion” of the at least one sugar may be determined according to Examples 1-6.
- The compositions of the present invention as well as those of the inventive methods may further comprise at least one additional sugar which is different from the at least one sugar chosen from C3 to C5 monosaccharides. The at least one additional sugar may, for example, aid in moisture retention.
- The at least one additional sugar may be chosen from any sugar, carbohydrate or carbohydrate moiety. Non-limiting examples of the at least one additional sugar are monosaccharides, which include, but are not limited to, three to seven carbon sugars such as pentoses (for example, ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, ribulose, and xylulose) and hexoses (for example, allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, sorbose, psicose, fructose, and tagatose); oligosaccharides such as disaccharides (such as maltose, sucrose, cellobiose, trehalose and lactose); and polysaccharides such as starch, dextrins, cellulose and glycogen. In another embodiment, the at least one additional sugar is chosen from any aldoses and ketoses. Further, the at least one additional sugar may be substituted or unsubstituted.
- According to the present invention, the at least one additional sugar is present in the composition in an amount generally ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.1% to 5% by weight.
- The compositions of the present invention as well as those used in the methods of the present invention may be in the form of a liquid, an oil, a paste, a stick, a dispersion, an emulsion, a lotion, a gel, or a cream. These inventive compositions may further comprise at least one solvent. Non-limiting examples of the at least one solvent include water and organic solvents. Non-limiting examples of organic solvents include C1-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; glycols and glycol ethers, such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl and monomethyl ether, and aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
- Further, these compositions may also comprise at least one suitable additive chosen from additives commonly used in compositions for keratinous fibers. Non-limiting examples of the at least one suitable additive include anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, fragrances, penetrating agents, antioxidants, sequestering agents, opacifying agents, solubilizing agents, emollients, colorants, screening agents (such as sunscreens and UV filters), preserving agents, conditioning agents, proteins, vitamins, silicones, polymers such as thickening polymers, plant oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils and any other additive conventionally used in compositions for the care and/or treatment of keratinous fibers.
- The composition comprising the at least one sugar according to the present invention generally has a pH ranging from 2 to 10. In an embodiment, the pH of the composition ranges from 3 to 8, such as from 5 to 7.
- Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the at least one suitable additive such that the advantageous properties of the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the addition(s) envisaged.
- The compositions used in the methods and kits of the present invention may also be provided as one-part compositions comprising at least one compound comprising at least one sugar chosen from C3 to C5 monosaccharides, and, optionally, at least one additional sugar, or in the form of a multi-component treatment or kit, for example, further comprising at least one relaxing composition. The skilled artisan, based on the stability of the composition and the application envisaged, will be able to determine how the composition and/or multicomponent compositions should be stored and mixed. For example, simple sugars such as C3 to C5 monosaccharides are known to be stable at pH levels ranging from 4 to 9. In compositions where the pH range is below or above these levels, e.g., as in a traditional relaxing composition, the sugars would be stored separately and added to the composition only at the time of application.
- Thus, the present invention also relates to a kit for relaxing at least one keratinous fiber comprising at least two compartments, wherein a first compartment comprises a first composition comprising at least one sugar chosen from C3 to C5 monosaccharides and derivatives thereof; and a second composition comprises a second composition comprising at least one relaxing composition. In one embodiment, at least one composition further comprises at least one additional sugar, different from the at least one sugar chosen from C3 to C5 monosaccharides and derivatives thereof.
- As previously discussed, the present invention also provides a method for lanthionizing keratinous fibers to achieve relaxation of at least one keratinous fiber comprising (i) applying at least one relaxing composition to at least one keratinous fiber for a sufficient period of time to lanthionize said at least one keratinous fiber; (ii) rinsing the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber; (iii) applying to the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber a composition comprising at least one sugar chosen from C3 to C5 monosaccharides and derivatives thereof; and (iv) heating the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber, wherein the at least one sugar is present in an amount effective to prevent reversion of the at least one relaxed keratinous fiber, and further wherein the composition is applied prior to or during heating. In an embodiment, the at least one relaxing composition comprises at least one reducing agent chosen from hydroxide compounds, thiols, sulfites, and derivatives thereof. In an embodiment, the at least one reducing agent is present in a concentration ranging from 4% to 20% by weight of the total weight of said at least one relaxing composition. In an embodiment, the at least one reducing agent is present in a concentration ranging from 7% to 12% by weight of the total weight of said at least one relaxing composition.
- Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients, reaction conditions, and so forth used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about.” Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical parameters set forth in the following specification and attached claims are approximations that may vary depending upon the desired properties sought to be obtained by the present invention. At the very least, and not as an attempt to limit the application of the doctrine of equivalents to the scope of the claims, each numerical parameter should be construed in light of the number of significant digits and ordinary rounding approaches.
- Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective testing measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without limiting the scope as a result.
- Virgin African-American (kinky) hair was processed and 2.5% sodium hydroxide for 20 min at room temperature. Next, the sodium hydroxide solution was washed off, the swatch was profusely rinsed with tepid water, and the treatment solution was applied for 5 min at room temperature. The treatment solutions included: water; 1% D-xylose; and 5% D-xylose.
- Next, the swatch was briefly rinsed to remove an excess of the treatment solution from the hair surface, blow-dried, and heat was applied in the form of five strokes with a flat iron (130° C.). The heat-treated swatch was rinsed with tepid water, air-dried at 50% RH (25° C.), and maintained for 24 at 90% RH (25° C.). The percent hair straightening (“% straightening”) was determined as follows:
-
The percent reversion (“% reversion”)=100%−(% straightening) -
TABLE 1 Hair Type % Straightening % Reversion Virgin hair 28.6 — 2.5% NaOH + water 85.7 14.3 2.5% NaOH + 1% D-Xylose 92.8 7.2 2.5% NaOH + 5% D-Xylose 100 0 - The data of table 1 show that post-treatment with a D-xylose solution prevented curl reversion in the relaxed kinky hair.
- Virgin African-American (kinky) hair was processed with different concentrations of sodium hydroxide for 20 min at room temperature: 1.0%, 1.5%, 2.0%, and 2.5% NaOH, respectively. Next, the sodium hydroxide solution was washed off, the swatch was profusely rinsed with tepid water, and the treatment solution was applied for 5 min at room temperature. The treatment solutions included water and 5% D-xylose.
- Next, the swatch was briefly rinsed to remove an excess of the treatment solution from the hair surface, blow-dried, and heat was applied in the form of a flat iron for 1 min (130° C.). The heat-treated swatch was rinsed with tepid water, air-dried at 50% RH (25° C.), and maintained for 24 h at 90% RH (25° C.). The percent hair straightening was determined as in Example 1.
-
Hair Type % Straightening % Reversion Virgin hair 28.6 — 1.0% NaOH + water 42.9 57.1 1.0% NaOH + 5% D-Xylose 57.1 42.9 1.5% NaOH + water 71.4 28.6 1.5% NaOH + 5% D-Xylose 78.6 21.4 2.0% NaOH + water 80.0 20.0 2.0% NaOH + 5% D-Xylose 100 0 2.5% NaOH + water 100 0 2.5% NaOH + 5% D-Xylose 100 0 - The data show that post-treatment with a D-xylose solution prevented curl reversion in the relaxed kinky hair better than post-treatment with water, even in the case of lower concentrations of sodium hydroxide.
- Virgin African-American (kinky) hair was processed with 2.0% sodium hydroxide for 20 min at room. Next, the sodium hydroxide solution was washed off, the swatch was profusely rinsed with tepid water, and the treatment solution was applied for 10 min at 45° C. The treatment solutions included: buffer solution, pH 2.0; buffer solution, pH 6.0; buffer solution, pH 10.0; 5% D-xylose, pH 2.0; 5% D-xylose, pH 6.5; and 5% D-xylose, pH 10. The solutions were buffered using phosphoric acid and sodium hydroxide.
- Next, the swatch was briefly rinsed to remove an excess of the treatment solution from the hair surface, blow-dried, and heat was applied in the form of a flat iron for 1 min. (130° C.). The heat-treated swatch was rinsed with tepid water, air-dried at 50% RH (25° C.), and maintained for 24 h at 90% RH (25° C.). The percent hair straightening was determined as in Example 1.
-
Hair Type % Straightening % Reversion Virgin hair 28.6 — 2.0% NaOH + water, pH 2.0 60.0 40.0 2.0% NaOH + 5% D-Xylose, pH 2.0 80.0 20.0 2.0% NaOH + water, pH 6.0 70.0 30.0 2.0% NaOH + 5% D-Xylose, pH 6.5 90.0 10.0 2.0% NaOH + water, pH 10.0 80.0 20.0 2.0% NaOH + 5% D-Xylose, pH 10.0 100 0.00 - The data show that post-treatment with a D-Xylose solution prevented reversion of the relaxed hair better than post-treatment with a buffer solution at various pH values.
- Virgin African-American (kinky) hair was processed with an alkali relaxer as follows. The commercial cream relaxer was applied to a swatch of hair for 10 min at room temperature. Next, the cream was washed off, the swatch was profusely rinsed with tepid water, and the treatment solution was applied for 5 min. The treatment solutions included water; 1% D-xylose; 3% D-xylose; and 5% D-xylose.
- Next, the swatch was briefly rinsed to remove an excess of the treatment solution from the hair surface, blow-dried, and heat was applied in the form of a flat iron for 1 min (175° C.). The heat-treated swatch was rinsed with tepid water, air-dried at 50% RH (25° C.), and maintained for 1 h at 100% RH (25° C.). The percent hair straightening was determined as in Example 1.
-
Hair Type % Straightening % Reversion Virgin hair 36.4 — Relaxed hair + water 46.2 53.8 Relaxed hair + 1% D-Xylose 69.1 30.9 Relaxed hair + 3% D-Xylose 76.0 24.0 Relaxed hair + 5% D-Xylose 78.0 22.0 - The data show that post-treatment with a D-xylose solution prevented reversion of the relaxed hair at various concentrations of D-xylose, as compared to a post-treatment with water.
- Virgin African-American (kinky) hair was processed with a commercial thioglycolate cream relaxer as follows. The thioglycolate cream relaxer was applied to a swatch of kinky hair for 15 min at room temperature (reduced hair). Next, the thioglycolate cream was washed off, the swatch was profusely rinsed with tepid water, and a hydrogen peroxide cream was applied for 5 min. The treatment solutions included: water and 5% D-xylose.
- The treatment solutions were applied either between the rinsing of the thioglycolate cream relaxer and the application of the hydrogen peroxide cream, or after the application of the hydrogen peroxide cream, respectively. The treatment solutions was applied for 5 min at room temperature. Next, the swatch was briefly rinsed to remove an excess of the treatment solution from the hair surface, blow-dried, and heat was applied in the form of a flat iron for 30 sec (175° C.). The heat-treated swatch was rinsed with tepid water, air-dried at 50% RH (25° C.), and maintained for 1 h at 100% RH (25° C.). The percent hair straightening was determined as in Example 1.
-
Hair Type % Straightening % Reversion Virgin hair 36.4 — Reduced hair + Hydrogen Peroxide 80.0 20.0 Reduced hair + Hydrogen 86.0 14.0 Peroxide + 5% D-Xylose Reduced hair + 5% D-Xylose + 100 0.00 Hydrogen Peroxide - The data show that post-treatment with a D-xylose solution prevented reversion while using a thioglycolate hair relaxer.
Claims (2)
1-46. (canceled)
47. A method for preventing reversion of at least one relaxed keratinous fiber comprising:
applying to at least one relaxed keratinous fiber a composition comprising at least one sugar chosen from C3 to C5 monosaccharides and derivatives thereof; and
heating said at least one relaxed keratinous fiber,
wherein said at least one sugar is present in an amount effective to prevent reversion of said at least one relaxed keratinous fiber, and
wherein said composition is applied prior to or during said heating.
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US12/491,059 US20090320869A1 (en) | 2003-08-29 | 2009-06-24 | Methods for preventing reversion of relaxed keratinous fibers and for relaxing keratinous fibers |
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