Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
  • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
  • A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
  • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
  • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
  • A61P17/06—Antipsoriatics
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
  • A61P35/00—Antineoplastic agents
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
  • A61P37/00—Drugs for immunological or allergic disorders
  • A61P37/08—Antiallergic agents
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings

Definitions

• ellagic acid as an anti-pollution cosmetic agent.
• the present invention relates essentially to a new use of ellagic acid, of its salts, of its metal complexes, of its mono- or poly-ethers, mono- or poly-acyl derivatives and of its carbonate or carbamate derivatives deriving from hydroxyl groups. as an anti-pollution cosmetic agent.
• the skin is directly and frequently exposed to the pro-oxidant environment.
• Sources of environmental oxidants include oxygen, UN irradiation as well as in polluted air, ozone, and oxides of nitrogen and sulfur.
• Air pollutants represented by the primary and secondary products of domestic and industrial combustion such as mono- and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons are also an important source of oxidative stress.
• the skin is particularly sensitive to the action of oxidative stress and the outermost layer acts as a barrier against oxidative damage. In most circumstances, the oxidant is likely to be neutralized after reaction with keratin materials, but the reaction products formed may be responsible for cell and tissue damage.
• the stratum corneum is the contact site between air and skin tissue.
• the biphasic lipid / protein structure is a crucial determinant of this barrier function of the skin. These elements can react with oxidants and be altered which will favor the phenomena of scaling. Ozone-induced lipid peroxidation can affect the skin in two ways:
• UV can cause synergistic oxidative stress.
• Metal ions are necessary for the body in the form of traces as essential nutrients. For example, several functions involving polypeptides such as enzymatic, structural and immunological functions require metal cof actors. However, other metal ions, especially heavy metal ions when in non-physiological concentrations, can alter these functions. Thus, overexposure to metals from the environment can lead to toxic effects.
• the effects of the accumulation of heavy metals can be extremely dangerous and their toxicity is due in part to the alteration of the tertiary and quaternary structures of proteins, which leads to a reduction in their catalytic activity.
• the altered proteins can become antigenic and trigger an immune response.
• Another mechanism responsible for the toxic effects of metals is the competitive substitution of natural physiological cofactors by heavy metals at non-physiological concentrations.
• the control of polluting heavy metals in the atmosphere is essential to prevent diseases related to exposure to metals.
• the skin, the hair and the accessible mucous membranes represent the largest contact surface and therefore favor the accumulation of metals and their subsequent absorption in the body.
• Certain metals and metal compounds present in industrial manufacturing, chemicals, jewelry, clothing, drug products, dyes and products maintenance agents are involved in primary irritation reactions, allergic reactions and carcinogenicity in the skin tissue.
• the metals particularly incriminated in the environment are copper, cobalt, zinc, manganese, mercury, nickel and lead.
• Hair is a strong absorbent for metals.
• the fixation is so strong that once these fixed metals are captured by the anionic sites of the fiber, they are difficult to extract.
• the degree of fixation of metals on the hair generally depends on several factors such as the size of the fiber, its porosity, and the exposure time. Metals such as copper, lead and iron can interfere with chemical treatments such as coloring and perming the hair. Hair is also a preferred site for these heavy metal particles. Indeed, keratin fibers have anionic sites which will bind the cationic heavy metals and accumulate them. Some cosmetic products contain metals such as magnesium, copper or iron. The absorption of these metals by keratin fibers can interfere with chemical treatments such as coloring, bleaching or the effects of perm. These interactions can lead to coloring problems or precipitation as described in US Patent US Pat. No. 5,635,167.
• Patent application GB 233 3705 mentions the use of ethylene diamide disuccinic acid in compositions for the treatment of skin irritations by heavy metals.
• document EP-A-0 496 173 describes extracts of Aleppo nuts containing ellagic acid in combination with gallic acid and hydrolyzable tannins to prevent the harmful effects of free radicals. This document also provides an application in cosmetics as a protective filter for ultraviolet B responsible for skin aging.
• the problem posed is therefore to protect the skin against gases, heavy metals, organic compounds combustion residues and their deleterious effects encountered in urban pollution, acting in isolation or in combination. It has now been found, quite surprisingly, that the use in topical application of ellagic acid, its salts, its metal complexes, its mono- or polyether derivatives, its mono- or polyacylated derivatives as well as of its carbonate or carbamate derivatives, derived from hydroxyl groups, made it possible to protect keratin materials, the skin and the integuments, against the deleterious effects of gases, heavy metals and organic compounds combustion residues.
• ellagic acid makes it possible to preserve and protect the keratin materials, the skin and the integuments against the harmful effects of pollution.
• Ellagic acid is of major interest as an active molecule against the deleterious effects of pollution on the skin. It has the advantage of exerting a protective effect against pollutants of different nature at low concentrations.
• Ellagic acid also known as: 2,3,7,8-tetra-hydroxy (l) -benzopyrano (5,4,3-cde) (l) benzopyran-5,10 dione is a well-known molecule belonging to the group polyphenols and present in the plant kingdom. Reference may be made to the publication of the Merck Index 20th edition (1996), No. 3588.
• Document FR-A-1 478 523 discloses a process for the purification of ellagic acid as well as the purified ellagic acids obtained by such a process.
• Ellagic acid has the following chemical formula:
• Ellagic acid is commercially available, including with the Sigma Company, France.
• the subject of the present invention is a use in topical application of ellagic acid, its salts, its metal complexes, its mono- or polyether derivatives, its mono- or polyacylated derivatives, as well as its carbonate or carbamate derivatives. , derived from hydroxy groups, as anti-pollution cosmetic agents.
• Cosmetic anti-pollution agent is understood to mean an agent which protects the skin and keratin materials so as to prevent, attenuate and / or eliminate the deleterious effects of toxic gases such as ozone, metals and organic compounds combustion residues.
• Ellagic acid and its derivatives are used as cosmetic agents trapping toxic gases and / or as cosmetic agents chelating heavy metals and or as cosmetic agents making it possible to prevent reactions of contact hypersensitivity due inter alia to polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons.
• the present invention also relates to the use of ellagic acid and its derivatives, in or for the preparation of a cosmetic composition with topical anti-pollutant application.
• the salts of ellagic acid include in particular the metal salts, in particular alkali or alkaline-earth salts, such as sodium and calcium, the amine salts such as the methylglutamine salts, diethanolamine, triethanola nine, choline, bis-triethylamine, the amino acid salts, in particular the basic amino acid salts such as arginine, lysine and ornitliine, the metal complexes include in particular metal complexes with zinc and copper and mono- or polyacylated derivatives include in particular acyl groups, saturated or unsaturated, having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms.
• the metal salts in particular alkali or alkaline-earth salts, such as sodium and calcium
• the amine salts such as the methylglutamine salts, diethanolamine, triethanola nine, choline, bis-triethylamine
• the amino acid salts in particular the basic amino acid salts such as arginine, lysine and ornit
• these acyl groups correspond to acetic, palmitic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, arachidonic, stearic, brassidic, erucic, behenic and (garlic Z) -5.8, ll, 14.17-eicosapentaenoic acids.
• the aforementioned mono- or polyether derivatives are in particular alkoxy derivatives comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or else derivatives of condensation of one or more hydroxy groups of ellagic acid with a sugar or a sugar chain .
• it is 3-methoxy ellagic acid or mono- or polyether derivatives with sugars such as glucose, arabinose, rha nose and galactose.
• ether or acyl derivatives can be obtained by methods of etherification or acylation of polyphenols well known in the art. Some can also be obtained by extraction from plants.
• the cosmetic compositions used in the invention will advantageously contain from 0.001% to 10%, preferably between 0.01 and 5% by weight of the ellagic acid, its salts, its metal complexes, its mono- or polyether derivatives , mono- or polyacylated and of its carbonate or carbamate derivatives, derived from hydroxy groups, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• This composition can also contain at least one other anti-pollution compound.
• This can in particular be chosen from anthocyanins and / or its derivatives, compounds containing a thioether function, tallow oxides or sulfone, ergothionine and / or its derivatives, heavy metal chelating agents such as for example derivatives N, N'-dibenzyl ethylene diamine N, N'-diacetic acid, antioxidants, cellular extracts of plant from the Pontederiaceae family.
• the cosmetic composition used in the invention may also contain a cosmetically acceptable medium, which more particularly consists of water and / or optionally of cosmetically acceptable organic solvent.
• a cosmetically acceptable medium which more particularly consists of water and / or optionally of cosmetically acceptable organic solvent.
• They can be chosen from the group consisting of hydrophilic organic solvents, amphiphilic solvents, lipophilic organic solvents or their mixtures.
• hydrophilic organic solvents mention may be made, for example, of lower, linear or branched mono-alcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, polyethylene glycols having from 6 to 80 ethylene oxides, polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, mono- or dialkyls of isosorbide in which the alkyl groups have from 1 to 5 atoms carbon like dimethyl isosorbide, glycol ethers like diethylene mono-methyl or mono-ethyl ether glycol and propylene glycol ethers such as dipropylene glycol methyl ether.
• lower, linear or branched mono-alcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, polyethylene
• polyols such as propylene glycol derivatives (PPG), such as esters of polypropylene glycol and of fatty acids, of PPG and of fatty alcohols such as PPG-23 oleyl ether and PPG-36 oleate.
• PPG propylene glycol derivatives
• esters of polypropylene glycol and of fatty acids of PPG and of fatty alcohols such as PPG-23 oleyl ether and PPG-36 oleate.
• fatty esters such as diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, alkyl benzoates.
• the organic solvents are preferably chosen from mono- or polyfunctional alcohols, optionally oxyethylenated polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycol esters, sorbitol and its derivatives, isosorbide dialkyls, glycol ethers and polypropylene glycol ethers, fatty esters.
• the organic solvents can represent from 5 to 98% of the total weight of the composition.
• compositions used in the invention are more pleasant to use, softer on application, more nourishing and more emollient, it is possible to add a fatty phase to the medium of these compositions.
• the fatty phase preferably represents from 0 to 50% by total weight of the composition.
• This fatty phase can comprise one or more oils preferably chosen from the group consisting of: - volatile or non-volatile silicones, linear, branched or cyclic, organo-modified or not, water-soluble or liposoluble,
• oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene
• - oils of vegetable origin such as sweet almond oil, avocado oil, castor oil, olive oil, l jojoba oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, macadamia oil, grape seed oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil,
• oils such as Purcellin oil, isoparaffins, - fluorinated and perfluorinated oils,
• It can also contain as fat (one) or more fatty alcohols, fatty acids or waxes (paraffin, polyethylene wax, Carnauba, beeswax).
• fat one or more fatty alcohols, fatty acids or waxes (paraffin, polyethylene wax, Carnauba, beeswax).
• compositions used in the invention can also contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic field such as gelling agents and / or thickening agents, aqueous or lipophilic, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, perfumes, emulsifiers, hydrating agents, pigmenting agents, depigmenting agents, keratolytic agents, vitamins, emollients, sequestrants, surfactants, polymers, basifying or acidifying agents, fillers, anti-radical agents free, ceramides, sun filters, especially ultraviolet, insect repellents, slimming agents, coloring matters, bactericides, anti-dandruff.
• adjuvants customary in the cosmetic field such as gelling agents and / or thickening agents, aqueous or lipophilic, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, perfumes, emulsifiers, hydrating agents, pigmenting agents, depigmenting agents, keratolytic agents, vitamins,
• compositions used according to the invention can be in all the gallenic forms normally used for topical application, in particular in the form of an aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solution, of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion or multiple, of an aqueous or oily gel, of a liquid, pasty or solid anhydrous product or of an oil dispersion in an aqueous phase using spherules, these spherules possibly being polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules, or better, lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type.
• compositions used in the present invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, ointment, milk, lotion, serum, paste, foam or solid.
• They can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. They can also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick.
• They can be used as a care product and / or as a makeup product.
• compositions according to the invention can have a pH of between 3 and 8, and preferably between 5 and 7.
• Another object of the invention consists in a cosmetic treatment process intended to obtain protection of the organism against the effects of pollution, consisting in applying to the skin a cosmetically effective amount of ellagic acid, of its salts, of its complexes, of its mono- or polyether, mono- or polyacylated derivatives and of its carbonate or carbamate derivatives, derived from hydroxy groups.
• Another cosmetic treatment method according to the invention intended to obtain protection of the organism against the effects of pollution consists in applying to the skin a cosmetic composition according to the invention, as defined above.
• Ozone has the capacity to oxidize cellular constituents, in particular by generating carbonylated proteins and lipid hydroperoxides.
• the quantification of lipid hydroperoxides is a means of measuring the oxidative stress induced by exposure of the skin tissue to this pollutant. A decrease in their level indicates a protective effect of ellagic acid.
• the study was carried out on a monolayer culture of human keratinocytes from surgical plasties.
• the cells are seeded on D-3 in 48-well dishes at a rate of 25,000 cells / cm 2 in 500 ⁇ l of culture medium. Incubations are carried out at 37 ° C, 5% C0 2 in a humid atmosphere.
• the cells were pretreated 24 hours with ellagic acid (100 ⁇ M final).
• Hydroperoxides are a marker for intracellular stress. They are detected and quantified using a fluorescence technique (Lebel CP, Ischiropoulos H. and Bondy SC (1992) Evaluation of the probe 2,7-dichlorofluorescin as an indicator of Reactive Oxygen Species formation and oxidative stress. Chem. Res Toxicol .; 5: 227-231). In the presence of hydroperoxides and peroxidases intracellular, DCFH is oxidized to fluorescent 2,7-dichlorofluorescein (DCF).
• DCF 2,7-dichlorofluorescein
• the cells pretreated 24 hours with ellagic acid, are then washed with phosphate buffered saline (PBS) and brought into contact for 30 minutes with a solution of DCFH-DA (500 ⁇ l / well), prepared in the culture medium at the concentration of 320 ⁇ M.
• PBS phosphate buffered saline
• Exposure to ozone The cells are again rinsed with PBS buffer and then brought into contact with a solution of ellagic acid (100 ⁇ l / well), prepared in PBS at a concentration of 200 ⁇ M. They are then exposed to ozone (10 ppm), in a humid atmosphere, in an incubator regulated at 37 ° C.
• Heavy metals such as cadmium, nickel, lead, mercury, etc., exert a cyto-toxic effect on the cells of various organs including the skin.
• the technique of measuring cell viability by the neutral red incorporation test made it possible to demonstrate the cyto-protective effect of ellagic acid against the toxicity of cadmium.
• the cells are seeded on D-3 in 96-well dishes at a rate of 25,000 cells / cm 2 in
• the cells are treated for 24 hours with increasing concentrations (0, 10, 25, 50, 75, 100, 150 and 200 ⁇ M) of cadmium chloride (CdCl 2 ), so as to determine its cytotoxicity.
• CdCl 2 cadmium chloride
• they are also treated 24 hours with the same concentrations of CdCl 2 in the presence of ellagic acid (200 and 100 ⁇ M, concentrations corresponding to the maximum dose and half-dose of ellagic acid, non-cyto toxic for the cells ).
• the cell viability is determined by the neutral red incorporation test (POS 55/006) and reading at 550 nm (ref: Borenfreund, E and Puerner, JA (1984) A simple quantitative procedure using monolayer cultures for cytotoxicity assays. Tissue. Culture Methods; 9: 7-9).
• the cells are rinsed with PBS buffer in order to remove the treatment solutions, then incubated for 3 hours at 37 ° C. in a solution of neutral red (100 ⁇ l) prepared at the concentration of 0.5 mg / ml in the medium of culture. They are then rinsed with PBS buffer and then fixed for one minute in a formalin / calcium solution.
• the neutral red is then extracted with an ethanol / acetic acid solution (100 ⁇ l / well). The amount extracted is determined by reading the optical density with a spectrophotometer at 550 nm.
• Cadmium chloride alone has significant toxicity with an IC-50 of 39 ⁇ M.
• the cytotoxicity of cadmium chloride decreases very sharply (which corresponds to an increase in the IC.50):
• the cytotoxicity decreases by a factor of 2.5.
• the cytotoxicity decreases by a factor of 4.3.
• PAHs Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons
• Their hepatic metabolism well described in the literature, leads to the formation of monohydroxylated metabolites (detoxification pathway), epoxide epoxides and diols (toxic pathway). It follows the same profile at the cutaneous level.
• the toxic pathway of epoxy and epoxy diols generates an alkylation of nucleophiles (proteins and DNA), which can be demonstrated by measuring the covalent attachment to these macromolecules by studying the metabolism of a radiolabelled PAH ( 14 C benzo [a] pyrene). After substantial or repeated exposure to the pollutant, its potential toxicity can lead to contact hypersensitivity in the case of protein alkylation.
• the principle of the study was to demonstrate a protective effect of ellagic acid against reactive alkylating entities produced by the cutaneous metabolism of radiolabelled B [a] P by measuring the radioactivity covalently bound to proteins.
• the study was carried out on a monolayer culture of human keratinocytes from surgical plasties.
• the cells are seeded at -3 in 6-well dishes at a rate of 53,000 cells / cm 2 .
• Incubations are carried out at 37 ° C in a humid atmosphere and enriched with 5%
• Covalent attachment to cellular proteins is measured according to the protocol of Hoellinger et al., Adapted to a filtration method in 96-well microplates (H. Hoellinger, M. Sonnier, J. Gray, TA Connors, J. Pichon and NH NAM. In vitro covalent binding of cismethrin, bioresmethrin and their common alcohol to hepatic proteins. Toxicol.
• Benzo (a) pyrene alone at a concentration of 20 ⁇ M exhibits significant reactivity with covalent attachment to keratinocyte proteins of 0.28 nmol of B (a) P per mg of protein.
• B (a) P decreases very sharply (reduction of reactivity by a factor of 3.1).
• Example 1 According to the usual preparation techniques, the constituents below are mixed to prepare an emulsion.
• Example 2 In the same way, an emulsion is prepared according to a conventional technique, from the following compounds: diethenolamine salt of ellagic acid 1 g
• Example 3 In the same way, an emulsion is prepared according to a conventional technique, from the following compounds:
• Example 4 In the same way, an emulsion is prepared according to a conventional technique, from the following compounds:
• Example 5 From the constituents below, the following composition is formulated:
• Example 6 From the constituents below, the following composition is formulated:
• Example 7 From the constituents below, the following composition is formulated:
• choline salt of ellagic acid 0.5 g
• the cellular extract of water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes) was obtained by this process: 12 feet of water hyacinth were washed with water and then coarsely wrung. Passed through a knife grinder (cutting robot), 700 g of ground material were obtained. Addition of 700 ml of H 2 0, then 300 ml of H 2 0 MilliQ. New passage in a 5-minute cutting robot, centrifugation 2,078,000 G Whatmann GFD filtration then GFF and lyophilization: 5.43 g of lyophilisate are thus obtained.

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