WO2000059465A1

WO2000059465A1 - Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions containing plant extracts of pinus lambertania to counteract all types of dryness of the skin

Info

Publication number: WO2000059465A1
Application number: PCT/FR2000/000529
Authority: WO
Inventors: Karl Lintner
Original assignee: Sederma
Priority date: 1999-04-06
Filing date: 2000-03-02
Publication date: 2000-10-12
Also published as: FR2791887A1; FR2791887B1; AU3170800A

Abstract

The invention relates to extracts of Pinus Lambertania wherein concentrations of pinitol have been found that are compatible with an industrial use in cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions or in the production of medicaments for all kinds of skin care, care of appendages of the skin or the scalp in order to counteract dryness of the skin irrespective of the origin thereof (physiological; due to climate, pollution, exposure to natural solar or artificial UV) and obtain anti-ageing effects, thereby prolonging the suppleness and protective function of the skin.

Description

TITLE: Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions containing plant extracts of Pinus Lambertania against cutaneous dryness of any origin.

To fully ensure its physiological barrier function against external aggressions, the skin, and more particularly the stratum corneum, must have perfect integrity and a good state of hydration.

Skin hygroscopy is linked to a mixture of different hygroscopic substances contained in horny cells, the Natural Moisturizing Factor or NMF, consisting of inorganic ions, organic acids, urea and amino acids. The NMF seems to be protected by a semi-permeable lipid membrane which allows it to attract water by osmosis but which prevents it from leaving the cells.

In addition, sebum constitutes with sweat a water-in-oil emulsion which exerts a regulating role in the evaporation of insensible perspiration, which maintains the hydration of the horny cells at its best level.

The imbalance of these factors results in skin dehydration or skin dryness. The latter is accompanied, at first, by a feeling of discomfort with tightness of the skin, then by roughness and skin peeling with more often than not, signs of inflammation. There are many causes of dry skin, for example:

• more or less excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation,

• atmospheric pollution,

• hot, cold, wind,

• untimely use of detergents, prolonged baths, “overheated accommodation,

• various skin reactions to synthetic fibers,

• consumption of tobacco and / or alcohol, or pathophysiological such as aging, diabetes, ichthyosis, hormonal imbalances, abuse of certain drugs (laxatives, diuretics ...); this list is by no means exhaustive.

Dry skin not only represents discomfort for the person affected, but also causes the skin to lose its separation barrier properties mechanical, between the internal environment which is the organism and the external world. Indeed, the skin then loses its elasticity, becomes dry, rough, brittle, which promotes excessive flaking. The loss of this integrity promotes the appearance of cracks and crevices, which increases the insensitive loss of water and facilitates the installation of local infections, the severity of which depends on two factors which add up: the location and size of the cutaneous surface as well as the virulence of the contaminating micro-organism (the above data correspond to a synthesis of different articles including Laurence FRITEAU (1998) Cosmetology 19: 1 1 -13; Catherine DESMOULIN (1999) Cosmetology 21: 20-21 ). The cosmetic industry is therefore fully in its role when it is constantly looking for new concepts and products capable of preventing or reducing skin dryness of all origins.

The object of this patent application lies in the discovery, and in the demonstration, that a new solution can be proposed in the cases of cutaneous dryness, and this, whatever the causes.

Indeed, we discovered that when applied topically at appropriate concentrations, a polyol, pinitol (3-O-methyl-inositol) precursor of inositol, was able to oppose the drying of skin. In addition, we discovered that it was interesting to extract this pinitol from Pinus Lambertiana because this tree contains large quantities of easily extractable pinitol, the cost price of the extracted pinitol is compatible with its industrial use.

To date, pinitol was known as an inhibitor of phospholipase A ₂ (for example: Cu'ellar MJ et al. (1997) J. Nαt. Prod. 60: 1 158-1 160), as an antidiabetic in mice ( for example: Νarayanan CR et al. (1987) Curr, Sci.

56: 139-144) or as a sodium regulator in the plant world (for example: Nelson DE et al. (1999) Plant Physiol. 119: 165-172).

Pinitol is extracted from the root, resin, pine nuts, bark or needles of Pinus Lambertiana. Pinus Lambertiana is the largest member of the coniferous family since some reach a height of 65 to 70 meters, which are found at altitudes of 1350 to 2700 meters, mainly in southern California, Oregon or New Zealand. Its apex is flattened, its bark is smooth and reddish-brown in color, its bundles have 5 short needles and its pines are long and soft. For roots, pine trees and bark, after grinding using standard equipment

(knife or hammer mill), the grain size of the material obtained must be between 0.2 and 5.0 mm.

The extraction can then be carried out by maceration, for 4 to 10 days, at a temperature of 15-20 ° C, of 25 grams of ground product in 100 ml of purified water. With regard to the resin and needles of Pinus Lambertiana, the extraction can be done directly without grinding, which does not exclude this step if one wishes however to carry out it for the needles.

After filtration of the extract obtained, about 75 ml of a light brown to yellow-orange liquid is collected. The extraction solvents mentioned above are not limiting and can be chosen from water, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycol, methyl or ethyl ethers of diglycols, cyclic polyols, ethoxylated or propoxylated diglycols, alcohols (methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol), or any mixture of these solvents. Furthermore, it is possible to produce these extracts by other methods such as, for example, simple decoction, leaching, reflux extraction, extraction by means of ultrasound or microwaves or finally by means of countercurrent techniques, without this list being exhaustive. The extracts obtained with any protocol set out above, or by any other means provided that they contain pinitol at concentrations identical to those described in this patent application, can be used in preparations like those given below by way of example, without this being limiting. Analysis of these extracts, by whatever appropriate methodology, demonstrates on the one hand, the presence of pinitol at concentrations which vary from 0.5% to 5.0% depending on the part of the tree used, l origin of the tree and the season in which it is obtained plant material and, on the other hand, that pinitol is the major constituent of the extract obtained.

EXAMPLE 1 Facial Care Cream

Volopo ^R S72 2.6

Prostéayl-15 8.0

Beeswax 0.5

Abil ^® ZP2434 3.0

Propylene glycol 3.0

Carbopol ^® 941 0.25

0.25 triethanolamine

Pinus Lambertania 3.0 extract

Water & preservatives QSP 100g

EXAMPLE 2 Anti-Wrinkle Cream

Polysorbate 60 3.8

Sorbitan 2.0 stearate

Cetyl alcohol 1.5

Vaseline oil 13

Pinus Lambertania 5.0 extract

Water & preservatives QSP 100g

Example 3: Deodorant body milk

Polysorbate 60 2.5

Oleic acid 0.9

Lanolin oil 2.5

Carbopol 940 0.3

Beeswax 2.0

Trieth-molamine 0.1

Glycerin 5.0

Pinus Lambertania 2.5 extract

Water & preservatives QSP 100g The effects of Pinus Lambertania extracts are demonstrated in the following examples.

EXAMPLE 4 Hydrating Effect In Vivo

This example demonstrates the skin moisturizing effect obtained, in vivo, on the legs of 15 adult female volunteers. The hydrating power of Pinus extract

Lambertania previously described, incorporated at the concentrations of 0.3, 1.0 and 3.0% in the facial care cream described in Example No. 1, was compared with that of a placebo (ie the same cream but without Pinus Lambertania extract) and no treatment. This test can be briefly described as follows. The level of skin hydration is measured by the skin capacitance by means of ^"a Corneometer (Courage and Khazaka, model CM 820), a technique conventionally used in cosmetics.

Indeed, the electrical properties of the surface layers of the skin are strongly linked to its water content. Five independent sites are identified using adhesives and pen markings, then, after a period of 20 minutes of rest in a seated position, the same measurements as those made at T0 are carried out in triplicate, at each site.

Each cream studied (placebo and Pinus Lambertania extract at different concentrations) is then applied until complete penetration, on an independent site, at a rate of 20 μl per site.

The fifth site previously identified does not receive any product.

The volunteers remain at rest.

Three measurements per site are carried out every hour, and this, for 6 hours.

The temperature and humidity of the room where the test is carried out are kept constant throughout the test.

Two different tests were carried out: the first used an extract made from roots (table 4-1) when the second tested a needle extract (table 4-2); the concentrations of pinitol in the two extracts were comparable. The two tables show the variations, in percentage with respect to TO, of the measurements carried out for 6 hours. The values indicated correspond to the averages calculated from the 3 measurements carried out.

Table 4-1

T O T + 1H T + 2H T + 3H T * 4H T + 5H T-6H

Nothing 0 - 0.2 - 1, 0 - 0.5 0.0 + 0.6 + 0.9

Placebo 0 + 0.5 0.2 + 1, 4 + 1, 0 + 2.2 + 0.9

Extract 0.3% 0 +10.3 + 1 1, 2 + 15.3 + 12.7 +13.2 +1 1.0

Extract 1.0% 0 +15.6 +19.2 +25.5 +27.8 +25, 1 +20.2

Extract 3.0% 0 +25, 1 +28.3 +29.4 +28.2 +27.9 +26.4

Table 4-2

T O T + 1H T + 2H T-3H T + 4H T + 5H T-6H

Nothing - 0.5 - 0.5 + 0.1 + 0.7 + 0.4 + 0.7 Placebo - 0.4 0.0 + 0.8 + 1.2 + 0.9 + 1.1 Extract 0.3% +12.0 +13.9 +14, 1 +19.8 +19.7 +17.4 Excerpt 1.0% +17.8 +21.2 +26.8 +30.2 +29.6 + 24.8 Extract 3.0% +26.2 +26.1 +32.7 +35.8 +33.1 +28.7

The two creams containing the extracts of Pinus Lambertania clearly demonstrate a strong hydrating power since not only, depending on the type of extract tested, skin hydration is increased by 30% to 35% compared to the start of the test but, by more, it is sustained since the effect is particularly evident for at least the six hours that the test lasts.

In addition, for the two extracts, the measured moisturizing effect is clearly concentration dependent. This, added to the fact that the pinitol concentrations of the two extracts were very close, confirm that the effect observed is actually due to the pinitol extracted.

A final argument that confirms the role of pinitol in Pinus extracts

Lambertania in the observed effect lies in the fact that, under the same conditions, the placebo cream (without extract of Pinus Lambertania), does not have any hydrating effect, just as it can be seen when no product is applied.

Example No. 5 Anti-wrinkle effect in vivo

This example reports the anti-wrinkle effect obtained, in vivo, on a panel made up of 13 adult female volunteers. The anti-wrinkle power of the previously described extract, incorporated at 5% in the anti-wrinkle cream of Example 2, containing an extract obtained from Pinus Lambertania resin, is compared to that of a placebo (the same cream but without the extract of Pinus Lambertania). The creams are applied to precisely identified sites, located on the corner of the right or left eye, according to a randomized distribution, twice a day, for 28 days. The parameter taken into account is the skin relief, at the level of the eye contour (so-called crow's feet wrinkles). The quantifications of the different relief variables are carried out by computer-video analysis of silicone impressions taken on the surface of the skin according to the protocols described by Corcuff et al. (1985, Int. J. Cosm.

Sci.l: 117-126) and Corcuff et al. (1995, in Handbook of non-invasive methods and the skin, Serup & Jemec eds., CRC Press: 89-96). The table below indicates the difference, in percentage, of the average values obtained between T +28 days and TO for the average depth of the main wrinkle (column A) or for all the folds (column B), for the density main folds (column C) as well as for roughness measurement (column D).

A B C D

Placebo 0.4 - 0.3 + 0.7 + 1.1

Extract - 15.3 - 19.2 - 25.6 - 15.2 The cream containing pinitol extracted from Pinus Lambertania clearly demonstrates a powerful anti-wrinkle effect since there is a significant difference between the start and the end of the study in vivo and this, on all four parameters conventionally used in this indication. Due to the activities demonstrated above, such preparations can be used for all skin care and especially in cases of dry skin of any origin, thus producing anti-aging and anti-wrinkle effects, which prolong the suppleness and the protective function of the skin. The concentration of pinitol in Pinus Lambertania extracts (referred to as Extracts in the remainder of this description) can vary between 0.5% to 5.0% depending on the part of the tree used, the geographical origin of the tree and the season in which the material was obtained.

The concentration of Extracts can vary between 0.01% and 50% (w / w). preferably between 0.1% and 10% (w / w) in the finished cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition.

The Extracts can be used in any dosage form used in cosmetics or dermopharmacy: O / W and W / O emulsions, milks, lotions, gelling and viscous polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, ointments, hair lotions, shampoos, soaps, sticks and pencils, sprays, body oils, without this list being exhaustive. It is possible to incorporate the Extracts into cosmetic vectors such as liposomes, chylomicrons, macro-, micro- and nanoparticles as well as macro-, micro- and nanocapsules, to absorb them on powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentonites and other mineral supports. The Extracts can be combined in cosmetic compositions with any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics: extraction and / or synthetic lipids, gelling and viscosifying polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, hydro- or liposoluble active principles, extracts from other plants, tissue extracts, marine extracts. The Extracts are used in cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions for all care of the skin, mucous membranes, integuments or scalp against the consequences of cutaneous dryness whatever its origin (physiological, climatic, pollution, exposure natural or artificial UV rays) and thus obtain anti-aging and anti-wrinkle effects, which prolongs the suppleness and the protective function of the skin. The Extracts are used as such, or in cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions, for the preparation of a medicament for all care of the skin, mucous membranes, integuments or scalp against the consequences of cutaneous dryness whatever either the origin (physiological, climatic, pollution, exposure to natural or artificial sun UN) and thus obtain anti-aging and anti-wrinkle effects, which prolongs the suppleness and the protective function of the skin. The Extracts can be used either in liquid form or in dry form obtained by conventional techniques of precipitation, drying, evaporation, atomization or lyophilization.

Claims

1. Use of extracts of Pinus Lambertania for the preparation of cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions.

2. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to claim 1 characterized in that the extracts contain between 0.5% and 5.0% (w / w) of pinitol.

3. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the extraction solvents used to obtain the extract are chosen from water, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycol, methyl or ethyl ethers of diglycols, cyclic polyols, ethoxylated or propoxylated diglycols, alcohols (methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol), or any mixture of these solvents.

4. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the extraction can be replaced by maceration techniques or by other processes such as, for example, simple decoction, leaching, l extraction under reflux, extraction by means of ultrasound or microwaves or finally countercurrent techniques.

5. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the extract is obtained from the root, the resin, the vine, the bark or the needles.

6. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to one of claims 1 to 5 characterized in that the extract is used either in liquid form or in dry form obtained by conventional techniques of precipitation, drying, evaporation, atomization or lyophilization.

7. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the concentration of the extract can vary between 0.01% and 50% (w / w), preferably between 0.1% and 10% (w / p) in the finished cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition. 8. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that they are in any form galenic used in cosmetics or dermopharmacy: O / W and W / O emulsions, milks, lotions, gelling and viscosifying polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, ointments, hair lotions, shampoos, soaps, sticks and pencils, sprays, body oils. 5 9. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the extract is incorporated in cosmetic vectors such as liposomes, chylomicrons, macro-, micro- and nanoparticles as well as macro- , micro- and nanocapsules, to absorb them on powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentonites and other mineral supports.

10. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the extract is used with any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics: extraction and / or synthetic lipids, gelling and viscosifying polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, 5 water- or fat-soluble active ingredients, extracts from other plants, tissue extracts, marine extracts.

11. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to one of claims 1 to 10 for all care of the skin, mucous membranes, integuments or scalp against the consequences of skin dryness 0 whatever its origin (physiological , climatic, pollution, exposure to natural or artificial sun UN) and thus obtain anti-aging and anti-wrinkle effects, which prolongs the suppleness and the protective function of the skin.

12. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to one of claims 1 to 10 for the preparation of a medicament for all care of the skin, mucous membranes, integuments or scalp against the consequences of dry skin whatever its origin (physiological, climatic, pollution, exposure to natural or artificial UV rays) and thus obtain anti-aging and anti-wrinkle effects, which o extends the suppleness and protective function of the skin.

3. Use of the extract according to claims 1 and 7 for the preparation of a medicament for all care of the skin, mucous membranes, integuments or scalp against the consequences of dry skin whatever it is 'origin (physiological, climatic, pollution, exposure to natural or artificial UV rays) and thus obtain anti-aging and anti-wrinkle effects, which prolongs the suppleness and the protective function of the skin.