WO2000011124A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing n-acylamino acids or their salts - Google Patents

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing n-acylamino acids or their salts Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2000011124A1
WO2000011124A1 PCT/EP1999/006113 EP9906113W WO0011124A1 WO 2000011124 A1 WO2000011124 A1 WO 2000011124A1 EP 9906113 W EP9906113 W EP 9906113W WO 0011124 A1 WO0011124 A1 WO 0011124A1
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Prior art keywords
weight
sodium
salts
solution
lauryl ether
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PCT/EP1999/006113
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German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Martin Sugar
Robert Schmucker
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Beiersdorf Ag
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Priority to JP2000566383A priority Critical patent/JP2002523428A/en
Priority to EP99944454A priority patent/EP1105448A1/en
Publication of WO2000011124A1 publication Critical patent/WO2000011124A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10Washing or bathing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/596Mixtures of surface active compounds

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the use of substances known per se as mild surfactants in cosmetic or dermatological cleaning agents.
  • the latter are essentially surface-active substances or mixtures of substances that are offered to the consumer in various preparations.
  • Preparations of this type are, for example, foam and shower baths, solid and liquid soaps or so-called “syndets” (synthetic detergents), shampoos, hand-washing pastes, intimate detergents, special cleaning agents for small children and the like.
  • synthetic detergents synthetic detergents
  • shampoos hand-washing pastes
  • intimate detergents special cleaning agents for small children and the like.
  • sodium lauryl ether sulfate One of the most widely used surfactants for cosmetic compositions worldwide is sodium lauryl ether sulfate.
  • an excellent detergent with good foaming power it is irritating to the skin and mucous membranes in higher doses.
  • the irritant potential of sodium lauryl ether sulfate is at least partially promoted by the fact that this substance binds to the skin surface and forms a certain reservoir there. Studies suggest that from this reservoir the lauryl ether sulfate migrates into deeper layers of the skin, where it can then undergo uncontrolled subsequent reactions that harbor an increased risk of irritation.
  • sodium lauryl ether sulfate sodium polyoxyethylene lauryl sulfate, according to INCI nomenclature: "Sodium laureth sulfate”; CAS No. 1335-72-4), like most cosmetically applied raw materials, does not produce a pure substance, but rather - due to the manufacturing process - rather a mixture of substances whose structures are of the general formula
  • n take numbers from 0 to 10 and m take numbers from 4 to 6.
  • Commercial products are, for example, Texapon® N 25, Texapon® N 40, Texapon® N 70 and Texapon® N 103 from Henkel KGaA.
  • lauryl ether sulfates which, as counterions, have, for example, substituted or unsubstituted ammonium ions with alkyl groups or hydroxyalkyl groups, but also magnesium and the like.
  • lauryl ether sulfate-free preparations are known and quite advantageous, they are notable for other disadvantages in terms of application, production technology or economy.
  • the present invention relates to cleaning preparations for use as a shower preparation.
  • Such preparations are also known per se. These are essentially surface-active substances or mixtures of substances that are offered to the consumer in various preparations. Preparations of this type are generally distinguished by a more or less high water content, but can also be present, for example, as a concentrate.
  • the present invention further relates to wash-active hair cosmetic preparations, commonly referred to as shampoos.
  • the present invention relates to hair cosmetic active ingredient combinations and preparations for the care of the hair and scalp.
  • wash-active cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing:
  • wash-active cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing:
  • the present invention furthermore relates to the use of one or more anionic surfactants, selected from the group consisting of N-acylamino acids and their salts, for preventing or reducing the absorption of lauryl ether sulfate on human skin during the washing process.
  • anionic surfactants selected from the group consisting of N-acylamino acids and their salts
  • the present invention furthermore relates to the use of one or more anionic surfactants selected from the group of N-acylamino acids and their salts, for the complete or partial desorption of lauryl ether sulfate from human skin.
  • the present invention furthermore relates to the use of one or more surfactants selected from the group of N-acylamino acids and their salts, this surfactant or these surfactants being or being present in washing-active cosmetic or dermatological preparations in concentrations which are greater than 3.0% by weight .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, to reduce the absorption of lauryl ether sulfate on human skin during the washing process or to remove lauryl ether sulfate from human skin.
  • the present invention furthermore relates to the use of one or more anionic surfactants, selected from the group of N-acylamino acids and their salts, for reducing the absorption of lauryl ether sulfate on human skin during the washing process, in particular when the sodium lauryl ether sulfate is used in detergent-active cosmetic or dermatological Preparations are present in concentrations which are greater than 9.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • N-acylamino acids and their salts are mild surfactants with a useful foam action and good washing action (HP Fiedler, Lexicon of auxiliaries for pharmacy, cosmetics and related areas, 4th edition, p. 108, keyword “N-acylglutamic acid ").
  • DE-OS 43 04 066 describes a preparation containing 12% by weight sodium lauryl ether sulfate and 3% by weight sodium cocoyl glutamate.
  • the subject of this document is the use of electrolytes to prevent pe Netration of the surface-active substances contained in the cleaning agents and / or other substances contained in these cleaning agents into the outer layers of the skin - 8% by weight of sodium chloride are then also present in the above-mentioned preparation, on the presence of which the person skilled in the art reduces the irritant potential of the sodium lauryl ether sulfate leads back.
  • acylamino acids (the acylpeptides also being included in the acylamino acids within the scope of the present disclosure) or their salts can advantageously be selected from the group
  • acylglutamates for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic acid / capric acid glutamate,
  • acyl peptides for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,
  • Sarcosinates for example myristoyl sarcosine, TEA lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
  • taurates for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate
  • acylglutamic acid or acylglutamates in particular sodium acylglutamates, as acylamino acid or its salts, which are distinguished by the following structure:
  • sodium cocoyl glutamate sodium lauroyl glutamate
  • sodium myristoyl glutamate sodium stearoyl glutamate
  • sodium tallowyl glutamate have been found to be particularly advantageous.
  • compositions optionally contain the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, dyes, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, pigments, all of which have a coloring effect, thickeners, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • additives customary in cosmetics for example perfume, dyes, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, pigments, all of which have a coloring effect, thickeners, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual
  • Cocoamidopropyl betaine (33% solution) 5.00

Abstract

The invention relates to surface-active detergent cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing the following: (a) more than 9.0 wt. % lauryl ether sulphate, (b) one or more anionic tensides, chosen from the group of N-acylamino acids and their salts and (c) less than 5.0 wt. % inorganic salts.

Description

Beschreibung description
KOSMEΗSCHE ODER DERMATOLOGISCHE ZUBEREITUNGEN ENTHALTEND N-ACYLAMINOSÄUREN ODER DEREN SALZECOSMIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL PREPARATIONS CONTAINING N-ACYLAMINOIC ACIDS OR THEIR SALTS
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft die Verwendung an sich als milder Tenside bekannter Stoffe in kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Reinigungsmitteln. Es handelt sich bei Letzteren im wesentlichen um oberflächenaktive Substanzen oder Stoffgemische, die dem Verbraucher in verschiedenen Zubereitungen angeboten werden.The present invention relates to the use of substances known per se as mild surfactants in cosmetic or dermatological cleaning agents. The latter are essentially surface-active substances or mixtures of substances that are offered to the consumer in various preparations.
Zubereitungen dieser Art sind beispielsweise Schaum- und Duschbäder, feste und flüssige Seifen oder sogenannte "Syndets" (synthetische Detergentien), Shampoos, Handwaschpasten, Intimwaschmittel, spezielle Reinigungsmittel für Kleinkinder und dergleichen.Preparations of this type are, for example, foam and shower baths, solid and liquid soaps or so-called "syndets" (synthetic detergents), shampoos, hand-washing pastes, intimate detergents, special cleaning agents for small children and the like.
Oberflächenaktive Stoffe - am bekanntesten die Alkalisalze der höheren Fettsäuren, also die klassischen "Seifen" - sind amphiphile Stoffe, die organische unpolare Substanzen in Wasser emulgieren können.Surface-active substances - best known are the alkali salts of higher fatty acids, ie the classic "soaps" - are amphiphilic substances that can emulsify organic non-polar substances in water.
Diese Stoffe schwemmen nicht nur Schmutz von Haut und Haaren, sie reizen, je nach Wahl des Tensids oder des Tensidgemisches, Haut und Schleimhäute mehr oder minder stark.These substances not only wash away dirt from the skin and hair, they irritate the skin and mucous membranes to a greater or lesser extent, depending on the choice of surfactant or mixture of surfactants.
Eines der weltweit am häufigsten eingesetzten Tenside für kosmetische Zusammensetzungen ist das Natriumlaurylethersulfat. An sich ein ausgezeichnetes waschaktives Agens mit gutem Schaumbildungsvermögen wirkt es in höheren Dosen jedoch auf Haut und Schleimhäute reizend. Wie jüngere Untersuchungen zeigen, wird das Reizpotential von Natriumlaurylethersulfat wenigstens teilweise dadurch gefördert, daß diese Substanz an die Hautoberfläche bindet und dort ein gewisses Reservoir bildet. Studien legen nahe, daß aus diesem Reservoir eine Migration des Laurylethersulfates in tiefere Hautschichten erfolgt, wo es dann unkontrollierte Folgereaktionen eingehen kann, die ein erhöhtes Reizrisko bergen.One of the most widely used surfactants for cosmetic compositions worldwide is sodium lauryl ether sulfate. In itself, an excellent detergent with good foaming power, it is irritating to the skin and mucous membranes in higher doses. As recent studies show, the irritant potential of sodium lauryl ether sulfate is at least partially promoted by the fact that this substance binds to the skin surface and forms a certain reservoir there. Studies suggest that from this reservoir the lauryl ether sulfate migrates into deeper layers of the skin, where it can then undergo uncontrolled subsequent reactions that harbor an increased risk of irritation.
Das handelsübliche Natriumlaurylethersulfat (= Natriumpolyoxyethylenlaurylsulfat, nach INCI-Nomenklatur: „Sodium laureth sulfate"; CAS-Nr.1335-72-4) stellt, wie die meisten kosmetisch angewandten Rohstoffe keinen reinen Stoff aus, sondern - herstellungsbedingt - vielmehr ein Gemisch aus Substanzen, deren Strukturen der allgemeinen FormelThe commercially available sodium lauryl ether sulfate (= sodium polyoxyethylene lauryl sulfate, according to INCI nomenclature: "Sodium laureth sulfate"; CAS No. 1335-72-4), like most cosmetically applied raw materials, does not produce a pure substance, but rather - due to the manufacturing process - rather a mixture of substances whose structures are of the general formula
Na+
Figure imgf000004_0001
gehorchen, wobei n Zahlen von 0 bis 10 und m Zahlen von 4 bis 6 annehmen. Das in den Handelsprodukten hauptsächliche vertretene, namensgebende Laurylderivat hat m = 5. Handelsprodukte sind beispielsweise Texapon® N 25, Texapon® N 40, Texapon® N 70 und Texapon® N 103 der Gesellschaft Henkel KGaA.
Well +
Figure imgf000004_0001
obey, where n take numbers from 0 to 10 and m take numbers from 4 to 6. The main name lauryl derivative represented in the commercial products has m = 5. Commercial products are, for example, Texapon® N 25, Texapon® N 40, Texapon® N 70 and Texapon® N 103 from Henkel KGaA.
Es existieren allerdings auch andere Laurylethersulfate, welche als Gegenion beispielsweise mit Alkylgruppen oder Hydroxyalkylgruppen substituierte oder auch un- substituierte Ammoniumionen aufweisen, aber auch Magnesium und dergleichen mehr.However, there are also other lauryl ether sulfates which, as counterions, have, for example, substituted or unsubstituted ammonium ions with alkyl groups or hydroxyalkyl groups, but also magnesium and the like.
Wegen der guten Verfügbarkeit, des akzeptablen Preises und der ausgezeichneten Wascheigenschaften des Natriumlaurylethersulfates ist es allerdings in der Praxis nicht möglich, in absehbarer Zukunft auf diesen Stoff ganz zu verzichten. Zwar sind laurylethersulfatfreie Zubereitungen bekannt und durchaus vorteilhaft, sie zeichnen sich jedoch durch andere anwendungs- oder herstellungstechnische oder wirtschaftliche Nachteile aus.However, due to the good availability, the acceptable price and the excellent washing properties of sodium lauryl ether sulfate, it is not possible in practice to completely do without this substance in the foreseeable future. Although lauryl ether sulfate-free preparations are known and quite advantageous, they are notable for other disadvantages in terms of application, production technology or economy.
Es ist an sich bekannt, Natriumlaurylethersulfat in Kombination mit anderen Tensiden als waschaktives Agens zu verwenden. Der Fachmann, welcher die Hautverträglichkeit solcher Zubereitungen steigern möchte, ersetzt dann einen Teil des Natriumlaurylethersulfates durch mildere Tenside. In der Regel sind aber als unerwünschte Nebeneffekte eine Verminderung der Schaumbildung und/oder der Reinigungsleistung in Kauf zu nehmen. Diesem Übelstande galt es also, Abhilfe zu schaffen.It is known per se to use sodium lauryl ether sulfate in combination with other surfactants as a washing-active agent. The specialist, who the Wants to increase the skin tolerance of such preparations, then replaces part of the sodium lauryl ether sulfate with milder surfactants. As a rule, however, a reduction in foam formation and / or cleaning performance must be accepted as undesirable side effects. So this bad situation had to be remedied.
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft in einer besonderen Ausführungsform Reinigungszubereitungen für die Verwendung als Duschpräparat.In a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to cleaning preparations for use as a shower preparation.
Auch derartige Zubereitungen sind an sich bekannt. Es handelt sich dabei im wesentlichen um oberflächenaktive Substanzen oder Stoffgemische, die dem Verbraucher in verschiedenen Zubereitungen angeboten werden. Zubereitungen solcher Art zeichnen sich im allgemeinen durch einen mehr oder weniger hohen Wassergehalt aus, können aber auch beispielsweise als Konzentrat vorliegen.Such preparations are also known per se. These are essentially surface-active substances or mixtures of substances that are offered to the consumer in various preparations. Preparations of this type are generally distinguished by a more or less high water content, but can also be present, for example, as a concentrate.
Schon bei einem einfachen Wasserbade ohne Zusatz von Tensiden kommt es zunächst zu einer Quellung der Hornschicht der Haut, wobei der Grad dieser Quellung beispielsweise von der Dauer des Bades und dessen Temperatur abhängt. Zugleich werden wasserlösliche Stoffe, z.B. wasserlösliche Schmutzbestandteile, aber auch hauteigene Stoffe, die für das Wasserbindungsvermögen der Hornschicht verantwortlich sind, ab- bzw. ausgewaschen. Durch hauteigene oberflächenaktive Stoffe werden zudem auch Hautfette in gewissem Ausmaße gelöst und ausgewaschen. Dies bedingt nach anfänglicher Quellung eine nachfolgende deutliche Austrocknung der Haut, die durch waschaktive Zusätze noch verstärkt werden kann.Even a simple water bath without the addition of surfactants initially causes the horny layer of the skin to swell, the degree of this swelling depending, for example, on the duration of the bath and its temperature. At the same time, water-soluble substances, e.g. water-soluble dirt components, but also skin's own substances, which are responsible for the water retention capacity of the horny layer, washed or washed out. The skin's own surface-active substances also dissolve and wash out skin fats to a certain extent. After initial swelling, this causes a subsequent significant drying out of the skin, which can be intensified by washing-active additives.
Bei gesunder Haut sind diese Vorgänge im allgemeinen belanglos, da die Schutzmechanismen der Haut solche leichten Störungen der oberen Hautschichten ohne weiteres kompensieren können. Aber bereits im Falle nichtpathologischer Abweichungen vom Normalstatus, z.B. durch umweltbedingte Abnutzungsschäden bzw. Irritationen, Lichtschäden, Altershaut usw., ist der Schutzmechanismus der Hautoberfläche gestört. Unter Umständen ist er dann aus eigener Kraft nicht mehr imstande, seine Aufgabe zu erfüllen und muß durch externe Maßnahmen regeneriert werden. Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung war somit, diesem Mangel des Standes der Technik Abhilfe zu schaffen. Weiterhin war eine Aufgabe der Erfindung, Wannen- aber auch Duschbadzubereitungen zur Verfügung zu stellen, welche einesteils hohe Pflegewirkung besitzen, ohne daß andererseits die reinigende Wirkung dahinter zurücksteht.These processes are generally irrelevant for healthy skin, since the protective mechanisms of the skin can easily compensate for such slight disorders of the upper layers of the skin. But even in the case of non-pathological deviations from the normal status, for example due to environmental wear and tear or irritation, light damage, aging skin, etc., the protective mechanism of the skin surface is disturbed. Under certain circumstances, he may no longer be able to fulfill his task on his own and must be regenerated by external measures. The object of the present invention was therefore to remedy this deficiency in the prior art. Furthermore, it was an object of the invention to provide bathtub and shower bath preparations, some of which have a high care effect, but without the cleaning effect being less important.
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft ferner waschaktive haarkosmetische Zubereitungen, landläufig als Shampoos bezeichnet. Insbesondere betrifft die vorliegende Erfindung haarkosmetische Wirkstoffkombinationen und Zubereitungen zur Pflege des Haars und der Kopfhaut.The present invention further relates to wash-active hair cosmetic preparations, commonly referred to as shampoos. In particular, the present invention relates to hair cosmetic active ingredient combinations and preparations for the care of the hair and scalp.
Erstaunlicherweise werden alle diese Aufgaben gelöst durch waschaktive kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen, enthaltend:Surprisingly, all of these tasks are solved by wash-active cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing:
(a) mehr als 9,0 Gew.-% Laurylethersulfat,(a) more than 9.0% by weight of lauryl ether sulfate,
(b) ein oder mehrere anionische Tenside, gewählt aus der Gruppe der N-Acyl- aminosäuren und deren Salze,(b) one or more anionic surfactants selected from the group of N-acylamino acids and their salts,
(c) weniger als 5,0 Gew.-% an anorganischen Salzen.(c) less than 5.0% by weight of inorganic salts.
Insbesondere werden diese Aufgaben gelöst durch waschaktive kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen, enthaltend:In particular, these tasks are solved by wash-active cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing:
(a) mehr als 9,0 Gew.-% Laurylethersulfat,(a) more than 9.0% by weight of lauryl ether sulfate,
(b) mehr als 0,5 Gew.-% , bevorzugt mehr als 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere mehr als 2,0 Gew.-%, ganz besonders mehr als 3,0 Gew.-% eines oder mehrerer anionischer Tenside, gewählt aus der Gruppe der N-Acylaminosäuren und deren Salze,(b) more than 0.5% by weight, preferably more than 1.0% by weight, in particular more than 2.0% by weight, very particularly more than 3.0% by weight, of one or more anionic Surfactants selected from the group of N-acylamino acids and their salts,
(c) weniger als 5,0 Gew.-% an anorganischen Salzen.(c) less than 5.0% by weight of inorganic salts.
Weiterhin ist Gegenstand der voriiegenden Erfindung die Verwendung eines oder mehrerer anionischer Tenside, gewählt aus der Gruppe der N-Acylaminosäuren und deren Salze, zur Verhinderung oder Verminderung des Aufziehens von Laurylethersulfat auf menschliche Haut während des Waschvorganges.The present invention furthermore relates to the use of one or more anionic surfactants, selected from the group consisting of N-acylamino acids and their salts, for preventing or reducing the absorption of lauryl ether sulfate on human skin during the washing process.
Ferner ist Gegenstand der vorliegenden Erfindung die Verwendung eines oder mehrerer anionischer Tenside, gewählt aus der Gruppe der N-Acylaminosäuren und deren Salze, zur vollständigen oder teilweisen Desorption von Laurylethersulfat von menschlicher Haut.The present invention furthermore relates to the use of one or more anionic surfactants selected from the group of N-acylamino acids and their salts, for the complete or partial desorption of lauryl ether sulfate from human skin.
Ferner ist Gegenstand der vorliegenden Erfindung die Verwendung eines oder mehrerer Tenside, gewählt aus der Gruppe der N-Acylaminosäuren und deren Salze, wobei dieses Tensid oder diese Tenside in waschaktiven kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen in Konzentrationen vorliegt oder vorliegen, die größer als 3,0 Gew.-% betragen, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, zur Verminderung des Aufziehens von Laurylethersulfat auf menschliche Haut während des Waschvorganges oder zur Entfernung von Laurylethersulfat von menschlicher Haut.The present invention furthermore relates to the use of one or more surfactants selected from the group of N-acylamino acids and their salts, this surfactant or these surfactants being or being present in washing-active cosmetic or dermatological preparations in concentrations which are greater than 3.0% by weight .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, to reduce the absorption of lauryl ether sulfate on human skin during the washing process or to remove lauryl ether sulfate from human skin.
Ferner ist Gegenstand der voriiegenden Erfindung die Verwendung eines oder mehrerer anionischer Tenside, gewählt aus der Gruppe der N-Acylaminosäuren und deren Salze, zur Verminderung des Aufziehens von Laurylethersulfat auf menschliche Haut während des Waschvorganges, insbesondere dann, wenn das Natriumlaurylethersulfat in waschaktiven kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen in Konzentrationen vorliegt, die größer als 9,0 Gew.-% betragen, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.The present invention furthermore relates to the use of one or more anionic surfactants, selected from the group of N-acylamino acids and their salts, for reducing the absorption of lauryl ether sulfate on human skin during the washing process, in particular when the sodium lauryl ether sulfate is used in detergent-active cosmetic or dermatological Preparations are present in concentrations which are greater than 9.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
Es ist an sich bekannt, daß N-Acylaminosäuren und deren Salze milde Tenside mit brauchbarer Schaumwirkung und guter Waschwirkung darstellen (H. P. Fiedler, Lexikon der Hilfsstoffe für Pharmazie, Kosmetik und angrenzende Gebiete, 4.Auflage, S. 108, Stichwort „N-Acylglutaminsäure").It is known per se that N-acylamino acids and their salts are mild surfactants with a useful foam action and good washing action (HP Fiedler, Lexicon of auxiliaries for pharmacy, cosmetics and related areas, 4th edition, p. 108, keyword “N-acylglutamic acid ").
In der Schrift „Surface Active N-Acylglutamate: Preparation of Long Chain N-Acyl- glutamic Acid" (M.Takehara, I.Yoshimura, K.Takizawa, R. Yoshida; Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society Vol.49, S.157 ff.) wird das JP-Patent 29 444 (1964) zitiert, demzufolge Acylglutamate lindernd auf von anderen anionischen Tensiden wie Natriumalkylbenzolsulfonaten und Natriumlaurylsulfat hervorgerufene Hautirritationen wirken solle.In the publication "Surface Active N-Acylglutamate: Preparation of Long Chain N-Acylglutamic Acid" (M.Takehara, I. Yoshimura, K.Takizawa, R. Yoshida; Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society Vol. 49, Pp. 157 ff.), JP Patent 29 444 (1964) is cited, according to which acylglutamates should alleviate skin irritations caused by other anionic surfactants such as sodium alkylbenzenesulfonates and sodium lauryl sulfate.
Die DE-OS 43 04 066 beschreibt eine Zubereitung mit einem Gehalt an 12 Gew.-% Natriumlaurylethersulfat und 3 Gew.-% Natriumcocoylglutamat. Gegenstand dieser Schrift ist jedoch die Verwendung von Elektrolyten zur Verhinderung der Pe- netration der in den Reinigungsmitteln enthaltenen grenzflächenaktiven Substanzen und/oder anderer in diesen Reinigungsmitteln enthaltenen Substanzen in die äußeren Hautschichten - in der zuvor erwähnten Zubereitung sind dann auch 8 Gew.-% an Kochsalz zugegen, auf dessen Gegenwart der Fachmann die Verminderung des Reizpotentials des Natriumlaurylethersulfates zurückführt.DE-OS 43 04 066 describes a preparation containing 12% by weight sodium lauryl ether sulfate and 3% by weight sodium cocoyl glutamate. The subject of this document, however, is the use of electrolytes to prevent pe Netration of the surface-active substances contained in the cleaning agents and / or other substances contained in these cleaning agents into the outer layers of the skin - 8% by weight of sodium chloride are then also present in the above-mentioned preparation, on the presence of which the person skilled in the art reduces the irritant potential of the sodium lauryl ether sulfate leads back.
Vorteilhaft können die Acylaminosäuren (wobei im Rahmen der vorliegenden Offenbarung auch die Acylpeptide zu den Acylaminosäuren gerechnet werden) bzw. deren Salze gewählt werden aus der GruppeThe acylamino acids (the acylpeptides also being included in the acylamino acids within the scope of the present disclosure) or their salts can advantageously be selected from the group
1. Acylglutamate, beispielsweise Natriumacylglutamate, Di-TEA- palmitoylaspartat und Natrium Caprylsäure/Caprinsäureglutamat,1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic acid / capric acid glutamate,
2. Acylpeptide, beispielsweise Palmitoyl-hydrolysiertes Milchprotein, Natrium Cocoyl-hydrolysiertes Soja Protein und Natrium-/ Kalium Cocoyl- hydrolysiertes Kollagen,2. acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,
3. Sarcosinate, beispielsweise Myristoyl Sarcosin, TEA-Iauroylsarcosinat, Natri- umlauroylsarcosinat und Natriumcocoylsarkosinat,3. Sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosine, TEA lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
4. Taurate, beispielsweise Natriumlauroyltaurat und Natriummethylcocoyltaurat,4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,
5. Acyllysinate, beispielsweise Laroyllysin5. Acyl lysinates, for example laroyl lysine
6. Acylalaninate6. Acylalaninate
7. Acylglycinate7. Acylglycinate
Insbesondere vorteilhaft ist es im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, als Acylamino- säure bzw. deren Salze Acylglutaminsäure bzw. Acylglutamate, insbesondere Natriumacylglutamate zu verwenden, die sich durch folgende Strukture auszeichnen:For the purposes of the present invention, it is particularly advantageous to use acylglutamic acid or acylglutamates, in particular sodium acylglutamates, as acylamino acid or its salts, which are distinguished by the following structure:
Figure imgf000008_0001
Figure imgf000008_0001
Von den Natriumacylglutamaten wiederum haben sich das Natriumcocoylglutamat, das Natriumlauroylglutamat, das Natriummyristoylglutamat, das Natriumstearoylglu- tamat und das Natriumtallowylglutamat als besonders vorteilhaft herausgestellt. Die Zusammensetzungen enthalten gemäß der Erfindung außer den vorgenannten Tensiden gegebenenfalls die in der Kosmetik üblichen Zusatzstoffe, beispielsweise Parfüm, Farbstoffe, antimikrobielle Stoffe, rückfettende Agentien, Kompiexierungs- und Sequestrierungsagentien, Perlglanzagentien, Pflanzenextrakte, Vitamine, Wirkstoffe, Konservierungsmittel, Bakterizide, Pigmente, die eine färbende Wirkung haben, Verdickungsmittel, weichmachende, anfeuchtende und/oder feuchthaltende Substanzen, Fette, Öle, Wachse oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierung wie Alkohole, Polyole, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, Elektrolyte, organische Lösemittel oder Silikonderivate.Of the sodium acyl glutamates, the sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate and sodium tallowyl glutamate have been found to be particularly advantageous. In addition to the surfactants mentioned above, the compositions optionally contain the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, dyes, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, pigments, all of which have a coloring effect, thickeners, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
Die nachfolgenden Beispiele sollen die vorliegende Erfindung verdeutlichen, ohne sie einzuschränken. Alle Mengenangaben, Anteile und Prozentanteile sind, soweit nicht anders angegeben, auf das Gewicht und die Gesamtmenge bzw. auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen bezogen. The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, parts and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.
Beispiel 1example 1
Gew.-%% By weight
Natrium Laurethsulfat (27,5 %-ige Lösung) 48,00Sodium laureth sulfate (27.5% solution) 48.00
Cocoamidopropylbetain (33 %-ige Lösung) 5,00Cocoamidopropyl betaine (33% solution) 5.00
Natriumcocoylglutamat (25 %-ige Lösung) 5,00Sodium cocoyl glutamate (25% solution) 5.00
PEG-40 hydriertes Rizinusöl 0,50PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.50
PEG-100 hydriertes Glycerylpalmitat 0,50PEG-100 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate 0.50
Natriumbenzoat 0,45Sodium benzoate 0.45
Natriumsalicylat 0,20Sodium salicylate 0.20
Citronensäure 0,50Citric acid 0.50
Parfüm q.s.Perfume q.s.
Wasser ad 100,00Water ad 100.00
Beispiel 2Example 2
Gew.-%% By weight
Natrium Laurethsulfat (27,5 %-ige Lösung) 40,00Sodium laureth sulfate (27.5% solution) 40.00
Cocoamidopropylbetain (33 %-ige Lösung) 10,00Cocoamidopropyl betaine (33% solution) 10.00
Natriumcocoylglutamat (25 %-ige Lösung) 3,00Sodium cocoyl glutamate (25% solution) 3.00
PEG-40 hydriertes Rizinusöl 0,50PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.50
PEG-100 hydriertes Glycerylpalmitat 0,50PEG-100 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate 0.50
Natriumbenzoat 0,45Sodium benzoate 0.45
Natriumsalicylat 0,20Sodium salicylate 0.20
Citronensäure 0,50Citric acid 0.50
Parfüm q.s.Perfume q.s.
Wasser ad 100,00 Water ad 100.00
Beispiel 3Example 3
Gew.-%% By weight
Natrium Laurethsulfat (27,5 %-ige Lösung) 30,00Sodium laureth sulfate (27.5% solution) 30.00
Cocoamidopropylbetain (33 %-ige Lösung) 15,00Cocoamidopropyl betaine (33% solution) 15.00
Natriumcocoylglutamat (25 %-ige Lösung) 1 ,00Sodium cocoyl glutamate (25% solution) 1.00
PEG-40 hydriertes Rizinusöl 0,50PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.50
PEG-100 hydriertes Glycerylpalmitat 0,50PEG-100 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate 0.50
Natriumbenzoat 0,45Sodium benzoate 0.45
Natriumsalicylat 0,20Sodium salicylate 0.20
Citronensäure 0,50Citric acid 0.50
Parfüm q.s.Perfume q.s.
Wasser ad 100,00Water ad 100.00
Beispiel 4Example 4
Gew.-%% By weight
Natrium Laurethsulfat (27,5 %-ige Lösung) 43,00Sodium laureth sulfate (27.5% solution) 43.00
Cocoamidopropylbetain (33 %-ige Lösung) 11,00Cocoamidopropyl betaine (33% solution) 11.00
Natriumcocoylglutamat (25 %-ige Lösung) 4,50Sodium cocoyl glutamate (25% solution) 4.50
Decylglucosid (50 %-ige Lösung) 2,00Decyl glucoside (50% solution) 2.00
PEG-40 hydriertes Rizinusöl 0,50PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.50
PEG-100 hydriertes Glycerylpalmitat 0,50PEG-100 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate 0.50
Natriumbenzoat 0,45Sodium benzoate 0.45
Natriumsalicylat 0,20Sodium salicylate 0.20
Citronensäure 0,50Citric acid 0.50
Parfüm q.s.Perfume q.s.
Wasser ad 100,00 Beispiel 5Water ad 100.00 Example 5
Gew.-%% By weight
Natrium Laurethsulfat (27,5 %-ige Lösung) 35,00Sodium laureth sulfate (27.5% solution) 35.00
Cocoamidopropylbetain (33 %-ige Lösung) 8,00Cocoamidopropyl betaine (33% solution) 8.00
Natriumcocoylglutamat (25 %-ige Lösung) 3,00Sodium cocoyl glutamate (25% solution) 3.00
Decylglucosid (50 %-ige Lösung) 4,00Decyl glucoside (50% solution) 4.00
PEG-40 hydriertes Rizinusöl 0,50PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.50
PEG-100 hydriertes Glycerylpalmitat 0,50PEG-100 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate 0.50
Natriumbenzoat 0,45Sodium benzoate 0.45
Natriumsalicylat 0,20Sodium salicylate 0.20
Citronensäure 0,50Citric acid 0.50
Parfüm q.s. Wasser ad 100,00Perfume q.s. Water ad 100.00
Beispiel 6Example 6
Gew.-%% By weight
Natrium Laurethsulfat (27,5 %-ige Lösung) 25,00Sodium laureth sulfate (27.5% solution) 25.00
Cocoamidopropylbetain (33 %-ige Lösung) 14,00Cocoamidopropyl betaine (33% solution) 14.00
Natriumcocoylglutamat (25 %-ige Lösung) 2,00Sodium cocoyl glutamate (25% solution) 2.00
Decylglucosid (50 %-ige Lösung) 3,00Decyl glucoside (50% solution) 3.00
PEG-40 hydriertes Rizinusöl 0,50PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.50
PEG-100 hydriertes Glycerylpalmitat 0,50PEG-100 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate 0.50
Natriumbenzoat 0,45Sodium benzoate 0.45
Natriumsalicylat 0,20Sodium salicylate 0.20
Citronensäure 0,50Citric acid 0.50
Parfüm q.s. Wasser ad 100,00 Beispiel 7Perfume qs water ad 100.00 Example 7
Gew.-%% By weight
Natrium Laurethsulfat (27,5 %-ige Lösung) 47,00Sodium laureth sulfate (27.5% solution) 47.00
Natrium Cocoamphoacetat (36 %-ige Lösung) 9,00Sodium cocoamphoacetate (36% solution) 9.00
Natriumcocoylglutamat (25 %-ige Lösung) 6,00Sodium cocoyl glutamate (25% solution) 6.00
PEG-40 hydriertes Rizinusöl 0,50PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.50
PEG-100 hydriertes Glycerylpalmitat 0,50PEG-100 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate 0.50
Natriumbenzoat 0,45Sodium benzoate 0.45
Natriumsalicylat 0,20Sodium salicylate 0.20
Citronensäure 0,50Citric acid 0.50
Parfüm q.s.Perfume q.s.
Wasser ad 100,00Water ad 100.00
Beispiel 8Example 8
Gew.-%% By weight
Natrium Laurethsulfat (27,5 %-ige Lösung) 41,00Sodium laureth sulfate (27.5% solution) 41.00
Natrium Cocoamphoacetat (36 %-ige Lösung) 6,50Sodium cocoamphoacetate (36% solution) 6.50
Natriumcocoylglutamat (25 %-ige Lösung) 3,50Sodium cocoyl glutamate (25% solution) 3.50
PEG-40 hydriertes Rizinusöl 0,50PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.50
PEG-100 hydriertes Glycerylpalmitat 0,50PEG-100 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate 0.50
Natriumbenzoat 0,45Sodium benzoate 0.45
Natriumsalicylat 0,20Sodium salicylate 0.20
Citronensäure 0,50Citric acid 0.50
Parfüm q.s.Perfume q.s.
Wasser ad 100,00 Water ad 100.00
Beispiel 9Example 9
Gew.-%% By weight
Natrium Laurethsulfat (27,5 %-ige Lösung) 41,00Sodium laureth sulfate (27.5% solution) 41.00
Natrium Cocoamphoacetat (36 %-ige Lösung) 6,50Sodium cocoamphoacetate (36% solution) 6.50
Natriumlauroylglutamat (25 %-ige Lösung) 3,50Sodium lauroyl glutamate (25% solution) 3.50
PEG-40 hydriertes Rizinusöl 0,50PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.50
PEG-100 hydriertes Glycerylpalmitat 0,50PEG-100 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate 0.50
Natriumbenzoat 0,45Sodium benzoate 0.45
Natriumsalicylat 0,20Sodium salicylate 0.20
Citronensäure 0,50Citric acid 0.50
Parfüm q.s. Wasser ad 100,00 Perfume qs water ad 100.00
Beispiel 9Example 9
Gew.-%% By weight
Natrium Laurethsulfat (27,5 %-ige Lösung) 32,00Sodium laureth sulfate (27.5% solution) 32.00
Natrium Cocoamphoacetat (36 %-ige Lösung) 5,00Sodium cocoamphoacetate (36% solution) 5.00
Natriumcocoylglutamat (25 %-ige Lösung) 5,00Sodium cocoyl glutamate (25% solution) 5.00
PEG-40 hydriertes Rizinusöl 0,50PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.50
PEG-100 hydriertes Glycerylpalmitat 0,50PEG-100 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate 0.50
Natriumbenzoat 0,45Sodium benzoate 0.45
Natriumsalicylat 0,20Sodium salicylate 0.20
Citronensäure 0,50Citric acid 0.50
Parfüm q.s.Perfume q.s.
Wasser ad 100,00 Water ad 100.00

Claims

Patentansprüche: Claims:
1. Waschaktive kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen, enthaltend:1. Wash-active cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing:
(a) mehr als 9,0 Gew.-% Laurylethersulfat,(a) more than 9.0% by weight of lauryl ether sulfate,
(b) ein oder mehrere anionische Tenside, gewählt aus der Gruppe der N-Acylaminosäuren und deren Salze,(b) one or more anionic surfactants selected from the group of N-acylamino acids and their salts,
(c) weniger als 5,0 Gew.-% an anorganischen Salzen.(c) less than 5.0% by weight of inorganic salts.
2. Waschaktive kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen nach Anspruch 1, enthaltend:2. Wash-active cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to claim 1, comprising:
(b) mehr als 0,5 Gew.-% , bevorzugt mehr als 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere mehr als 2,0 Gew.-%, ganz besonders mehr als 3,0 Gew.-% eines oder mehrerer anionischer Tenside, gewählt aus der Gruppe der N-Acylaminosäuren und deren Salze.(b) more than 0.5% by weight, preferably more than 1.0% by weight, in particular more than 2.0% by weight, very particularly more than 3.0% by weight, of one or more anionic Surfactants selected from the group of N-acylamino acids and their salts.
3. Verwendung eines oder mehrerer anionischer Tenside, gewählt aus der Gruppe der N-Acylaminosäuren und deren Salze, zur Verhinderung oder Verminderung des Aufziehens von Laurylethersulfat auf menschliche Haut während des Waschvorganges.3. Use of one or more anionic surfactants, selected from the group of N-acylamino acids and their salts, for preventing or reducing the absorption of lauryl ether sulfate on human skin during the washing process.
4. Verwendung eines oder mehrerer anionischer Tenside, gewählt aus der Gruppe der N-Acylaminosäuren und deren Salze, zur Desorption von Laurylethersulfat von menschlicher Haut.4. Use of one or more anionic surfactants, selected from the group of N-acylamino acids and their salts, for the desorption of lauryl ether sulfate from human skin.
5. Verwendung nach Anspruch 3 oder 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das oder die Tenside, gewählt aus der Gruppe der N-Acylaminosäuren und deren Salze, in waschaktiven kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen in Konzentrationen vorliegt, die größer als 0,5 Gew.-% , bevorzugt mehr als 1,0 Gew.- %, insbesondere mehr als 2,0 Gew.-%, ganz besonders mehr als 3,0 Gew.-% betragen, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.5. Use according to claim 3 or 4, characterized in that the surfactant or surfactants selected from the group of N-acylamino acids and their salts is present in wash-active cosmetic or dermatological preparations in concentrations which are greater than 0.5% by weight. , preferably more than 1.0% by weight, in particular more than 2.0% by weight, very particularly more than 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
6. Verwendung nach Anspruch 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das Natriumlaurylethersulfat in waschaktiven kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen in Konzentrationen vorliegt, die größer als 9,0 Gew.-% betragen, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen. 6. Use according to claim 3, characterized in that the sodium lauryl ether sulfate is present in washing-active cosmetic or dermatological preparations in concentrations which are greater than 9.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
PCT/EP1999/006113 1998-08-21 1999-08-20 Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing n-acylamino acids or their salts WO2000011124A1 (en)

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