JP2002523428A - Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing N-acyl amino acids or their salts - Google Patents

Abstract

  (57) [Summary] The present invention relates to (a) more than 9.0% by weight of lauryl ether sulfate, (b) one or more anionic surfactants selected from the group of N-acyl amino acids and salts thereof, and (C) to a surface active detersive cosmetic or dermatological formulation comprising less than 5.0% by weight of an inorganic salt.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to the use of substances known per se as less irritating surfactants in cosmetic or dermatological cleansing compositions. The cleansing composition essentially comprises a surfactant or a mixture of such substances provided to the consumer in various formulations.

Examples of such formulations are foam bath and shower formulations, solid and liquid soaps or what are known as “syndets” (synthetic detergents), shampoos, hand washing pastes, personal hygiene compositions, Includes special cleaning products for young children.

[0003] Surfactants-the alkali metal salts of higher fatty acids, most commonly known as traditional "soaps"-are amphiphilic substances capable of emulsifying organic non-polar substances in water.

[0004] These substances not only wash dirt from the skin and hair, but also irritate the skin and mucous membranes more or less, depending on the choice of surfactant or surfactant mixture.

[0005] One of the most commonly used surfactants worldwide for cosmetic compositions is sodium lauryl ether sulfate.
sulfate). At high concentrations, it is an excellent detergent, which itself has good foam-forming ability, but has an irritating effect on the skin or mucous membranes.

As recent studies have shown, the irritating ability of sodium lauryl ether sulfate is at least partially promoted by the substance binding to the surface of the skin, where it forms some kind of reservoir. Studies suggest that lauryl ether sulphate migrates from the reservoir to the deeper layers of the skin, where it participates in uncontrolled secondary reactions, providing a place for increased danger of irritation to hide I have.

[0007] Commercially available, conventional sodium lauryl ether sulfate (ie, sodium polyoxyethylene sulfate)
yl sulfate, according to INCI nomenclature, "sodium laureth sulfate", CAS No. 1
335-72-4), like the majority of the raw materials used in cosmetics, are not pure substances, but rather, depending on the formulation, have the general formula

[0008]

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Wherein n is assumed to be a number from 0 to 10 and m is assumed to be a number from 4 to 6. In the lauryl derivatives that dominate in commercially available products and whose names are listed, m is 5. Examples of commercially available products are H
Texapon® N25, Texap from Enkel KGaA
on (R) N40, Texapon (R) N70 and Texapo
n (registered trademark) N103.

However, there are also other lauryl ether sulphates whose counterions include, for example, ammonium ions which are unsubstituted or otherwise substituted by alkyl or hydroalkyl groups and also magnesium and the like.

However, due to its ready availability, acceptable price and excellent detergency, it is practically impossible not to use sodium lauryl ether sulfate at all in the not too distant future. Formulations containing no lauryl ether sulfate are known and have the sole advantage, but nevertheless they are not suitable for other performance or process (pr
epation)-with or with economic disadvantages.

The use of sodium lauryl ether sulphate as a detergent in combination with other surfactants is known per se. One skilled in the art would replace certain sodium lauryl ether sulfates with less irritating surfactants in hopes of enhancing the skin compatibility of such formulations. However, an unwanted side effect that must generally be tolerated is reduced foaming and / or reduced cleansing performance. The purpose therefore is to remedy these drawbacks.

The present invention, in one particular embodiment, relates to a cleansing formulation for use as a shower product.

[0014] This type of preparation is known per se. They essentially comprise a surfactant or a mixture of said substances and are provided to the consumer in various formulations. Such formulations may also be present, for example, as concentrates, but their general feature is a somewhat higher water content.

[0015] Even simple bathing in water without the addition of a surfactant initially involves swelling of the stratum corneum of the skin, the extent of which depends, for example, on the bathing time and its temperature. At the same time, water-soluble substances, such as water-soluble soil constituents, and also the water binding capacity (capas) of the stratum corneum
The material inherent to the skin that is responsible for the iv) is washed out or washed out. further,
As a result of the skin-specific surfactants, cutaneous fa
ts) is also dissolved and washed to some extent. After the initial swelling, this causes subsequent significant drying of the skin, the action of which may be further enhanced by detersive additives.

[0016] In the case of healthy skin, these steps are generally not critical because the protective mechanisms of the skin can easily compensate for such minor disturbances to the upper layers of the skin. . However, even in the case of non-pathological deviations from the normal stage, for example wear or damage to the environment, irritation, photo
) As a result of damage, aging of the skin, etc., the protective mechanism of the skin surface is damaged. Under certain circumstances, the mechanism can no longer perform its own function and must be regenerated using external means.

It is therefore an object of the present invention to remedy these disadvantages of the prior art. It is a further object of the present invention to provide a bath or shower formulation that, on the other hand, does not remove the cleansing effect, but on the one hand, exerts a high level of care.

The invention further relates to a hair cosmetic detersive formulation, more commonly referred to as a shampoo. In particular, the invention also relates to combinations of active cosmetic substances for the hair, as well as hair care and scalp care formulations.

Surprisingly, all of these objectives are selected from the group consisting of (a) more than 9.0% by weight of lauryl ether sulfate, (b) N-acyl amino acids and their salts, Achieved using a detersive cosmetic or dermatological formulation comprising a further anionic surfactant, (c) less than 5.0% by weight of an inorganic salt.

These objectives are in particular: (a) more than 9.0% by weight of lauryl ether sulphate; (b) more than 0.5% by weight, preferably more than 1.0% by weight, in particular 2% by weight. One or more anionic surfactants, selected from the group of N-acyl amino acids and their salts, of more than 0.0% by weight, very particularly more than 3.0% by weight, (c) Achieved using a detersive cosmetic or dermatological formulation containing less than 5.0% by weight of an inorganic salt.

[0021] The present invention further provides a composition selected from the group of N-acyl amino acids and salts thereof for preventing or reducing the attachment of lauryl ether sulfate to human skin during the washing step. Or more of the use of anionic surfactants.

The present invention further provides for the complete or partial elimination of lauryl ether sulfate from human skin, selected from the group of N-acyl amino acids and their salts.
It provides for the use of one or more anionic surfactants.

The present invention is further directed to reducing lauryl ether sulfate adhesion to human skin during a washing step or to removing lauryl ether sulfate from human skin.
One or more of one or more anionic surfactants selected from the group of N-acyl amino acids and their salts, having a detergency at a concentration of more than 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation. Use of the surfactant (s) present in a cosmetic or dermatological formulation of the invention.

The present invention further provides a method for reducing the adhesion of lauryl ether sulfate to human skin during the washing step, especially at a concentration of more than 9% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, Provided is the use of one or more anionic surfactants selected from the group of N-acyl amino acids and their salts when present in a detersive cosmetic or dermatological formulation.

It is known that N-acylamino acids and their salts are less irritating surfactants having a useful foam-forming action and good detergency (HP Fied).
ler, Lexikon der Hilfstoffe full Pha
rmazie, Kosmetik und anglenzend Geb
ie, 4th edition, p.108, entry "N-Acyl"
glutamamineeure "[N-acylglutamic acid]
).

Reference “Surface Active N-Acylglutamate: P
preparation of Long Chain N-Acylgluta
mic acid "(M. Takehara, I. Yoshimura, KT
akizawa, R .; Yoshida, Journal of the Ame
rican Oil Chemists' Society, vol. 49, p
.157ff) cited in Japanese Patent (JP) 29444 (1964), according to which acylglutamate is provided by other anionic surfactants such as sodium alkylbenzenesulfonate and sodium lauryl sulfate. It has the effect of alleviating the stage of skin irritation.

German Patent Application (DE-A) 43 04 066 describes a formulation comprising 12% by weight of sodium lauryl ether sulfate and 3% by weight of sodium cocoyl glutamate. However, that document relates to the use of electrolytes to prevent the penetration of surfactants present in the cleaning agents and / or other substances present in these cleaning agents into the outer layers of the skin. The formulations described above also contain 8% by weight of sodium chloride, and those skilled in the art attribute the reduced irritating capacity of sodium lauryl ether sulfate to their presence.

Acyl amino acids (including acyl peptides for the purposes of the present disclosure) and / or their salts are: 1. acyl glutamates, for example sodium acyl glutamate, di-TEA palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylyl glutamate / caprylyl glutamate, palmityl aspartate di-TEA (di-TEA palmitoylaspartate); 2. Acyl peptides such as palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein sodium and cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen sodium / cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen potassium; 3. sarcosine salts, such as myristoyl sarcosine, lauroyl sarcosine TEA, lauroyl sarcosine sodium and cocoyl sarcosine sodium; 4. Taurates, such as sodium lauroyl taurine and sodium methyl cocoyl taurine; 5. acyllysinates sinate, for example lauroyl lysine; 6. acylalanine salts, It may advantageously be selected from the group consisting of acylglycine salts.

In the context of the present invention, acylglutamic acid and acylglutamate are
It is particularly advantageous to use each as an acylamino acid and / or a salt thereof, in particular sodium acylglutamate characterized by the following structure:

[0030]

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In addition, among the sodium acylglutamic acids, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate and sodium tallowyl glutamate have proven to be particularly advantageous.

According to the invention and in addition to the above-mentioned surfactants, the compositions may contain additives customary in cosmetology, for example fragrances, dyes, antibacterial substances, refatting agents (r
efatting agents), complexing agents and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active substances, preservatives, bactericides, pigments having a coloring action,
Thickeners, emollients, moisturizers and / or wetting agents, fats, oils, waxes or other components of conventional cosmetic or dermatological preparations, such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes , Organic solvents or silicon derivatives.

The following examples are intended to illustrate, but not limit, the invention. Except where otherwise noted, all amounts, ratios and percentages are expressed by weight, based on the weight of the formulation and the total amount or weight.

[0034]

【Example】

Example 1 wt% sodium laureth sulfate (27.5% concentration) 48.00 (sodium laureth sulfate) cocoamidopropyl betaine (33% concentration) 5.00 sodium cocoylglutamate (25% concentration) 5.00 PEG-40 Hardened castor oil 0.50 PEG-100 Hardened glyceryl palmitate 0.50 Sodium benzoate 0.45 Sodium salicylate 0.20 Citric acid 0.50 Fragrance Add enough (qs) water up to 100.00 Example 2 weight % Sodium laureth sulfate (27.5% concentration) 40.00 Cocoamidopropyl betaine (33% concentration) 10.00 Sodium cocoyl glutamate (25% concentration) 3.00 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.50 PEG-100 cured Palmitic acid Seryl 0.50 Sodium benzoate 0.45 Sodium Salicylate 0.20 citrate 0.50 Perfume sufficiently added to water 100.00 Example 3 wt% sodium laureth sulfate (27.5% concentration) 30.00 cocamide Propyl betaine (33% concentration) 15.00 Sodium cocoyl glutamate (25% concentration) 1.00 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.50 PEG-100 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate 0.50 Sodium benzoate 0.45 Sodium salicylate 0.20 Citric acid 0.50 Fragrance Sufficiently add water up to 100.00 Example 4 % by weight Sodium laureth sulfate (27.5% concentration) 43.00 Cocoamidopropyl betaine (33% concentration) 11.00 Sodium cocoyl glutamate (25 %concentration 4.50 Decyl glucoside (50% concentration) 2.00 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.50 PEG-100 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate 0.50 Sodium benzoate 0.45 Sodium salicylate 0.20 Citric acid 0.50 Fragrance Fully Example 5 wt% sodium laureth sulfate (27.5% concentration) 35.00 cocoamidopropyl betaine (33% concentration) 8.00 Sodium cocoyl glutamate (25% concentration) 3.00 decyl glucoside (50% concentration) 4.00 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.50 PEG-100 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate 0.50 sodium benzoate 0.45 sodium salicylate 0.20 citric acid 0.50 perfume well water up to 100.00 Add eXAMPLE 6 wt% Thorium laureth sulfate (27.5% concentration) 25.00 Cocoamidopropyl betaine (33% concentration) 14.00 Sodium cocoylglutamate (25% concentration) 2.00 Decyl glucoside (50% concentration) 3.00 PEG-40 Hardened castor oil 0.50 PEG-100 Hardened glyceryl palmitate 0.50 Sodium benzoate 0.45 Sodium salicylate 0.20 Citric acid 0.50 Fragrance Sufficiently add water up to 100.00 Example 7 wt% sodium laureth sulfate ( 27.5% concentration) 47.00 Sodium cocoamphoacetate (36% concentration) 9.00 Sodium cocoylglutamate (25% concentration) 6.00 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.50 PEG-100 cured glyceryl palmitate 0. 50 Benzo Sodium 0.45 Sodium Salicylate 0.20 citrate 0.50 Perfume sufficiently added to water 100.00 Example 8 wt% sodium laureth sulfate (27.5% concentration) 41.00 sodium coco amphoacetates (36% Concentration) 6.50 sodium cocoyl glutamate (25% concentration) 3.50 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.50 PEG-100 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate 0.50 sodium benzoate 0.45 sodium salicylate 0.20 citric acid 0.50 Fragrance Sufficiently add water up to 100.00 Example 9 % by weight Sodium laureth sulfate (27.5% concentration) 41.00 Sodium cocoamphoacetate (36% concentration) 6.50 Sodium lauroyl glutamate (25% concentration) 3 .50 P G-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.50 PEG-100 curing palmitate glyceryl 0.50 Sodium benzoate 0.45 Sodium Salicylate 0.20 citrate 0.50 Perfume sufficiently added to water 100.00 Example 10 wt% sodium laureth Sulfate (27.5% concentration) 32.00 Sodium cocoamphoacetate (36% concentration) 5.00 Sodium cocoyl glutamate (25% concentration) 5.00 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.50 PEG-100 cured palmitic acid Glyceryl 0.50 Sodium benzoate 0.45 Sodium salicylate 0.20 Citric acid 0.50 Fragrance Fully add water up to 100.00

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification symbol FI theme coat ゛ (reference) C11D 10/02 C11D 10/02 F term (reference) 4C083 AB031 AC302 AC312 AC422 AC432 AC472 AC661 AC662 AC712 AC781 AC782 AD192 BB05 4H003 AB08 AB09 AB31 AC12 AD04 DA02 EB07 EB08 EB09 ED02 FA02

Claims (6)

[Claims] 1) more than 9.0% by weight of lauryl ether sulphate; (b) one or more anionic surfactants selected from the group of N-acyl amino acids and their salts; (C) Detersive cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing less than 5.0% by weight of inorganic salts. 2. (b) more than 0.5% by weight, preferably more than 1.0% by weight, in particular more than 2.0% by weight, very particularly more than 3.0% by weight; N-
The detersive cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises one or more anionic surfactants selected from the group of acylamino acids and their salts. 3. One or more selected from the group of N-acyl amino acids and salts thereof for preventing or reducing the attachment of lauryl ether sulfate to human skin during the washing step. Use of an anionic surfactant. 4. Use of one or more anionic surfactants selected from the group of N-acyl amino acids and their salts for desorbing lauryl ether sulfate from human skin. 5. A compound selected from the group consisting of N-acylamino acids and salts thereof.
The surfactant or surfactants is greater than 0.5%, preferably greater than 1.0%, especially greater than 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation; 5. Use according to claim 3 or 4, characterized in that it is present in a detersive cosmetic or dermatological formulation very particularly at a concentration of more than 3.0% by weight. 6. The method according to claim 1, wherein the sodium lauryl ether sulphate is present in the detersive cosmetic or dermatological preparation in a concentration of more than 9.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. Use according to 3.