DE10100720A1 - Cosmetic and dermatological detergent compositions containing an effective amount of iminodisuccinic acid and / or its salts - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological cleaning preparations containing (a) an effective quantity of at least one surfactant, and (b) an effective quantity of iminodisuccinic acid and/or the salts thereof.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic cleansers. Such funds are on known. These are essentially surface-active substances or mixtures of substances offered to the consumer in various preparations become.

The production of cosmetic cleansing products has been rising for years Tendency. This is mainly due to the increasing health awareness and hygiene consumer needs.

Cleaning means the removal of (environmental) dirt and thus causes an increase mental and physical well-being. The cleaning of the surface of skin and hair is a very complex, dependent on many parameters process. On the one hand, substances coming from outside, such as hydrocarbons, should be used substances or inorganic pigments from various environments as well as residues of cosmetics or unwanted microorganisms as completely as possible become. On the other hand, bodily excretions such as sweat, sebum, skin and dandruff without profound interventions in the physiological balance to wash.

The demands on the properties of cosmetic cleansing preparations have in The last years changed a lot. Previously there were effects such as cleaning and foaming in the foreground of consumer wishes. At present, the ecological, economic and in particular dermatological properties of the products, although the Foaming power continues to play a decisive role, for example as an indicator,  to remove residual amounts of surfactants after cleansing the skin and hair away or to avoid overdosing during use. However, it is attached cosmetic products - unlike most technical detergents - the skin and mucous membrane compatibility absolutely in the foreground; the products should be "mild".

Cosmetic or dermatological cleansing preparations are so-called "rinse often" Preparations which are rinsed off the skin after use. They are in usually in the form of a foam with water on the body parts to be cleaned carried. Basis of all cosmetic or dermatological cleansing preparations are detergent surfactants. Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that are organic, nonpolar substances zen in water. They are characterized by an ambivalent behavior via water and lipids: The surfactant molecule contains at least one hydrophilic one each and a lipophilic group that attaches to the interface between them allow the substance classes. In this way surfactants provide for a reduction the surface tension of the water, the wetting of the skin, the relief Dirt removal and solution, a gentle rinse and - as desired - also for foam regulation. Thus, the basis for the Schmutzentfemung is lipidhaltiger Given pollution.

The hydrophilic moieties of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar radio tional groups, for example -COO ^-, -OSO ₃ ^2-, -SO ₃ ^-, while the hydrophobic moieties are usually nonpolar hydrocarbon radicals. Surfactants are generally classified according to the nature and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. Here four groups can be distinguished:

• - anionic surfactants,
• - cationic surfactants,
• Amphoteric surfactants and
• - nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In aqueous solution, they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral medium. Cationic surfactants are almost exclusively characterized by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and behave accordingly in aqueous solution depending on the pH as anionic or cationic surfactants. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example is intended to illustrate:
RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH X ^- (at pH = 2) X ^- = any anion, e.g. B. Cl ^-
RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- (at pH = 7)
RNHCH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- B ⁺ (at pH = 12) B ⁺ = any cation, eg. Na ⁺

Typical of non-ionic surfactants are polyether chains. Nonionic surfactants form in aqueous medium no ions.

The washing-active surfactants in cosmetic and dermatological cleaning agents un are subject to a very critical assessment regarding their dermatological and ecological behavior. The latter is particularly important because it raises in Licher amount to be applied and after use in the wastewater reach.

Based on the already described central importance of the washing-active Ten Side for the cleaning process, their behavior on the human skin of the utmost importance tung.

Even with a cleansing of the skin with the help of water - without the addition of surfactants - First, there is a swelling of the horny layer of the skin. The degree of this source ment hangs u. a. from the duration of the bath and its temperature. At the same time Water-soluble substances washed off or washed out, such as. B. water-soluble Schmutzbe constituents, but also the skin's own substances, which are responsible for the water-binding capacity of the horn are responsible. In addition, the skin's own surface-active substances become Skin fats also dissolved and washed out to a certain extent. This depends on initial swelling, subsequent drying of the skin.  

It is understandable that detergent surfactants, the skin and hair of greasy and what To cleanse serlöslichen dirt components, a degreasing effect on the have normal skin lipids. At every skin cleanse will be varying degrees also removes intercornocytic lipids and sebum components. This means that the natural water lipid coat the skin more or less with every wash is disturbed. This can be a short-term change especially with extreme degreasing tion of the barrier function of the skin, of course, the respective Condition of the treated skin region on the presented changes of erhebli Chem influence is. For example, the skin thickness, the number of sebum and sweat glands and the associated sensitivity vary considerably.

Basically, accordingly, as a requirement for detergent surfactants that bio logically as inactive as possible to avoid unwanted side effects. You sol Their cleansing effect with optimal mildness, best skin compatibility and lower Unfold degreasing.

But there has also been no lack of attempts to prepare suitable cleaning gene, which regenerate the skin at the same time with good cleaning performance or "greasing". However, the performance achieved often remains below the expected level back, so that the user usually resort to separate care products must be applied to the skin after cleansing and on this remain (so-called "leave-on" products).

Due to the increasing washing frequency in the consumer, however, is increasing as before the desire for mild, compatible and thereby regenerating as possible Preparations.

As a rule, cosmetic or dermatological cleansing preparations are very good tailored to a presumed range of applications, since for a defined, mil de cleaning effect in particular also different depending on the application me chanical parameters - such as the time factor - of considerable importance are: This is z. B. clearly, if you look at the different application (Kon tact) times of a bubble bath compared to short-term washing hands before Au leads.  

Cosmetic cleaners usually contain mixtures of different surfactants Art. The selection is based primarily on the skin compatibility and the ge Wanted cosmetic performance of surfactants. In addition, foaming assets, Formulability and a favorable cost / performance ratio are essential.

The present invention relates in a particular embodiment cosmetic Detergents in the form of shaped soap products. Such agents are known per se. These are essentially surface-active substances or mixtures of substances which are offered to the consumer in various preparations. The Er In particular, finding relates to bar soaps with improved smoothness and increased lime soap dispersibility by a content of talc and one or more amphoteric surfactants in the simultaneous absence of alkyl (oligo) glycosides.

Surface-active substances - most prominently the alkali salts of the higher fatty acids, thus the classic "soaps" - are amphiphilic substances that are organic nonpolar substances in Can emulsify water.

These fabrics not only soak up dirt from the skin and hair, they irritate, depending on Choice of surfactant or surfactant mixture, skin and mucous membranes more or less strong. Although a large number of fairly mild surfactants are available, the surfactants are The prior art either mild, but clean poor, or clean them good, but irritate skin or mucous membranes.

When it comes to body cleansing, bar soaps play an important role, which is nowadays a big hit by continuous saponification of free fatty acids with alkalis, concentrates ren of base soaps and spray drying are produced. One differentiates thereby between real alkali soaps containing only fatty acid salts and possibly still contain free fatty acids and so-called "combibars", bar soaps, in addition to fat acid salts, other synthetic surfactants, usually fatty alcohol ether or Have fatty acid isothionates. A special position, however, take the Syndetstück soaps, so-called "syndetbars", which, except impurities, are free of fatty acid salts zen and contain only synthetic surfactants.  

In Germany alone, millions of soaps per year are used for body hygiene sold. The demands of the market on these bulk consumables will be but always higher: bar soaps need not only clean the skin, but also maintain, d. H. prevent drying out, greasing and protection against influences from the outside. Of course, it is expected that the soap in particular is skin-friendly, but it should still be as much and creamy in the application Give foam and cause a pleasant feeling on the skin. In this context Manufacturers of bar soaps are constantly looking for new ingredients that help them meet the requirements profile.

One differentiates between solid, usually piece-shaped, and liquid soaps. Main components are the alkali salts of the fatty acids of natural oils u. Fats, preferably the chain lengths C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ . Since lauric acid soaps foam particularly well, the lauric acid-rich co-kos and palm kernel oils are preferred raw materials for the production of fine soap. The sodium salts of the fatty acid mixtures are solid, the potassium salts soft-pasty. For saponification, the dilute sodium or potassium hydroxide is added to the fatty raw materials in a stoichiometric ratio so that in the finished soap, an alkali excess of at most 0.05% is present. In many cases, the soaps are no longer produced directly from the fats, but from the fatty acids obtained by lipolysis.

Common soap additives are fatty acids, fatty alcohols, lanolin, lecithin, vegetable oils, Partial glycerides and other fat-like substances for the refatting of the purified Skin, antioxidants such as ascorbyl palmitate or tocopherol to prevent autoxi dation of the soap (rancidity), complexing agents such as nitrilotriacetate for the binding of Heavy metal traces that could catalyze autoxidative spoilage, perfume oils for Obtaining the desired fragrance notes, dyes for coloring soap bars and if desired, special additives.

The most important types of fine soap are:

• - Toilet soaps with 20-50% coconut oil in the fat mixture, up to 5% Rückfetter share and 0.5-2% perfume oil, they make up the largest proportion of fine soaps;
• - Luxury soaps with up to 5% of particularly precious perfume oils;
• - Deoseifen with additives of deodorizing agents such. B. 3,4,4'- Trichlorocarbonilide (triclocarbon);  
• - cream soaps with especially high levels of moisturizing and creaming the skin substances;
• - baby soaps with good moisturizing and additional nourishing shares such. B. Ka mille extracts, at most very slightly perfumed;
• - Skin protection soaps with high levels of moisturizing substances as well as others caring and protective additives, such. Proteins;
• - Transparent soaps with additions of glycerin, sugar u. a., which is the crystallization prevent the fatty acid salts in the solidified soap melt and so a transpa cause a rented appearance;
• - Floating soaps with a density <1, caused by during manufacture kon trolliert incorporated air bubbles.
• Soaps with abrasive additives for cleaning heavily soiled hands.

The present invention relates, in a particular embodiment, to liquid soaps or washing lotions. Such products are not only for cleaning the hands, son As a rule, it is also used for the whole body, including the face. Accordingly, they are also suitable for use as a shower preparation. In the Development of these products are the dermatological requirements in the foreground This is because the skin comes into intensive contact with the concentrated surfactant solution. On the selection of mild surfactants in low concentration is therefore of particular value sets. Further criteria are also a good foamability and a pleasant, refreshing scent and the simultaneous care of the skin. Washing lotions and in particular Shower baths generally have viscosities of about 3,000 to 10,000 mPa.s, wel on the one hand good dispersibility of the product with fast foaming allowed ben, but on the other hand high enough to be a proper application to allow by hand or washcloth.

Liquid soaps or washing lotions are generally characterized by a more or less high water content, but usually develop no significant care effect, since they have only a low oil content.

The present invention relates in a particular embodiment to a relatively new one technical development, namely surfactant-containing shower preparations with a high oil content. German Offenlegungsschrift 44 24 210 describes in this context cosmetic  or dermatological shower preparations having a surfactant content of max at least 55 wt .-% and an oil content of more than 45 wt .-%, wherein the preparations are essentially anhydrous. Due to the high oil content these preparations act gene regenerating with respect to the general skin condition. They are the same good foaming and a high cleaning power in good time.

Further, WO 96/17591 describes foaming liquid skin cleansing compositions containing the following substances: 5 to 30% by weight of a moisturizing agent having a Vaughan solubility parameter (VSP) of 5 to 10, 0.3 to 5% by weight. % of a water-dispersible gel-forming polymer, 5 to 30% by weight of a synthetic surfactant, 0 to 15% by weight of a C ₈ to C ₁₄ fatty acid soap and water, said preparations having a Lipid Deposition Value (LDV) of at least 5 to 1000 and wherein the synthetic surfactant and the soap have a common CMC equilibrium surface tension value of 15 to 50. However, this document could not point the way to the present invention.

The present invention further relates to Rei in a particular embodiment emulsion-based cleaning products. These are formulated in the way that the Emulsi stabilized with emulsifiers and then a surfactant system is adjusted.

Also emulsifiers have an amphiphilic structure, so are the surfactants of the Structure comparable. Emulsifiers facilitate or facilitate uniformity Distribution of two or more immiscible phases and prevent at the same time their segregation. Because emulsions by the addition of surfactants in the all are destroyed, the choice of the surfactant system is severely limited, and the Cleaning preparations obtained are based on expensive and complicated formulations.

In the late 1940s, a system was developed to facilitate the selection of emulsifiers. Each emulsifier is assigned a so-called HLB value (a dimensionless number between 0 and 20) which indicates whether there is a preferred water or oil solubility. Numbers below 9 indicate oil-soluble, hydrophobic emulsifiers, numbers above 11 water-soluble, hydrophilic. The HLB value says something about the equal weight of the size and strength of the hydrophilic and lipophilic groups of an emulsifier. From these considerations it can be deduced that the effectiveness of an emulsifier can also be characterized by its HLB value. The following statement shows the relationship between HLB value and possible field of application:

HLB value field of use 0 to 3 defoamers 3 to 8 W / O emulsifier 7 to 9 wetting agent 8 to 18 O / W emulsifier 12 to 18 solubilizers

The HLB value of an emulsifier can also be composed of increments where at the HLB increments for the different hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups, which make up a molecule, tables can be taken from Kings NEN. In principle, HLB values can also be achieved for washing-active surfactants although the HLB system was originally designed for emulsifiers only is. It turns out that detergent substances usually have HLB values, the significantly larger than 20.

The object of the present invention was to provide cleaning preparations on the basis of of emulsions which meets the disadvantages of the prior art nik remedy and which accordingly simple and inexpensive Rezeptu underlying. The preparations should also have a high care effect, without the purifying effect being behind it.

The present invention relates in a particular embodiment, cosmetic and dermatological cleaning preparations in the form of gels

Cosmetic gels enjoy the utmost popularity with the consumer. Because they mostly they are transparent, often colored but just as often they are colorless, they offer the cosmetic developer additional design options that partially funkti have onalen character, but partly only the improvement of the outer Er serve appearance. Thus, for example, the product which is the Be then usually presented in a transparent packaging, by incorporated  Color pigments, gas bubbles and the like, or even larger objects, interesting optical effects are awarded.

Another object was to provide cleaning preparations which if desired, can be designed as optically appealing, stable gels.

The present invention further relates to wash-active hair cosmetic preparations, in generally referred to as shampoos. In particular, the present invention relates Hair cosmetic active ingredient combinations and preparations for the care of the hair and the scalp. The prior art lacks shampoo formulations which Treat damaged hair satisfactorily. Task was there to remedy these disadvantages of the prior art as well.

It has surprisingly been found, and therein lies the solution of these objects that kos metic and dermatological cleaning preparations containing

• a) an effective amount of one or more surfactants and
• b) an effective amount of iminodisuccinic acid and / or its salts

or the use of a combination of

• a) an effective amount of one or more surfactants, and
• b) an effective amount of iminodisuccinic acid and / or its salts for the manufacture the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological cleansing preparations,

the disadvantages of the prior art would remedy.

It was not foreseeable for the skilled person that the invention Preparations have higher stability and better biocompatibility would be distinguished as the preparations of the prior art.

The use of iminodisuccinic acid as a complexing agent and its fundamental Suitability in cosmetics is known per se, for example from DE 197 12 911. Den yet this writing could not lead the way, which ultimately revealed no more than the word "Cosmetics" do not point the way to the present invention.  

Iminodisuccinic acid has the following structure, presumably a balance of tautomeric forms:

According to the invention, cosmetic or dermatological preparations contain from 0.1 to 20% by weight, advantageously 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, most preferably 1 to 5 wt .-% imino dibemic acid and / or its salts.

Cosmetic and / or dermatological cleansing preparations in the sense of underlying invention are based on simple and inexpensive formulations. You ha ben at the same time a good foaming and a high cleaning power. The acce preparations have a regenerating effect on the general condition of the skin, diminishing it the dryness of the skin and make the skin supple.

The cleaning preparations advantageously contain one or more inventive agents wash-active anionic, cationic, amphoteric and / or nonionic surfactants. It is particularly advantageous, the detergent surfactant or surfactants according to the invention from Group of surfactants which have an HLB value of more than 25, all particularly advantageous are those which have an HLB value of more than 35.

Very particularly advantageous washing-active anionic surfactants in the context of the present invention are
Acylamino acids and their salts, such as

• - Acylglutamate, especially sodium acylglutamate
• Sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosine, TEA lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium laureate royl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,

Sulfonic acids and their salts, such as

• Acyl isethionates, e.g. B. sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,  
• Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfo succinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfo succinate

and sulfuric acid esters, such as

• Alkyl ether sulfate, for example, sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C12-13 pareth,
• Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

Very particularly advantageous wash-active cationic surfactants in the sense of the present invention Endings are quaternary surfactants. Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N- Atom which is covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. Advantageous are benz alkoniumchlorid, Alkylbetain, Alkylamidopropylbetain and Alkyl amidopropylhydroxy sultaine.

Very particularly advantageous washing-active amphoteric surfactants in the context of the present invention are

• Acyl / dialkylethylenediamines, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acyl amphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate.

Very particularly advantageous washing-active non-ionic surfactants in the sense of the present invention are

• Alkanolamides, such as cocamide MEA / DEA / MIPA,
• - Esters obtained by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,
• Ethers, for example ethoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated poly siloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside, De cylglycoside and cocoglycoside.

Further advantageous anionic surfactants are

• Taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,
• Ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,  
• - Phosphoric acid esters and salts, such as DEA-oleth-10 phosphate and Dilaureth-4 phosphate,
• - Alkyl sulfonates, for example Natriumcocosmonoglyceridsulfat, sodium C12-14 Olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate.

Further advantageous amphoteric surfactants are

• N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropion acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

Further advantageous nonionic surfactants are alcohols.

Further suitable anionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are further

• Acylglutamates such as di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,
• Acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen

as well as carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as

• For example, lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkoxide and zinc cylenat,
• Ester carboxylic acids, for example, calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and Sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
• - alkylarylsulfonates.

Further suitable cationic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are further

• - alkyl amines,
• - Alkylimidazoles and
• - ethoxylated amines.

Further suitable nonionic surfactants in the context of the present invention are fer ner amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide.

It is advantageous in the context of the present invention, if the content of one or several detergent surfactants in cosmetic or dermatological cleansing supply preparations from the range of 5 to 25 wt .-%, very particularly advantageous  is selected from 10 to 20 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the Zube TION.

It is particularly advantageous in the context of the present invention, the content of conventional Complexing agents, such as those selected from the group ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and their anions, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and their anions, hydroxy Ethylenediaminotriessigsäure (HOEDTA) and their anions, Diethylenaminopentaessig acid (DPTA) and its anions, trans-1,2-diaminocyclohexanetetraacetic acid (CDTA) and their anions to keep low or to dispense with these altogether. Anyway, should a content of about 0.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic To preparations, preferably not be exceeded on such complexing agents.

An optionally desired oil component of the cosmetic or dermatologi cleaning preparations - for example in the form of cleaning emulsions - in According to the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarbon acids having a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 C-Ato men, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then be chosen advantageously from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n- Butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl iso nonanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, and synthetic, semysin thetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. jojoba oil.

Further, the oil component can be advantageously selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols le, as well as the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length from 8 to 24, especially 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides may be included For example, be selected advantageous from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic  and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, Almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are advantageous in Use of the present invention. It may also be advantageous if necessary waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase use.

Advantageously, the oil component is selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyl dodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate and 2-Ethylhexylisostea rat, mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate and isotridecyüsononanoat and mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, 2-Ethylhexylisostearat and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are advantageous in the sense to use the present invention.

Advantageously, the oil component may further contain cyclic or linear silicates have clouds or consist entirely of such oils, although before is added, except the silicone oil or silicone oils an additional content of ande ren oil phase components to use.

Advantageously, cyclomethicone (Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxan) ver than according to the invention ver used silicone oil. But other silicone oils are beneficial in terms of For example, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, Polydi methylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Also particularly advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecylisono nanoate, from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

The oil component is also advantageously selected from the group of phospholipids. The phospholipids are phosphoric acid esters of acylated glycerols. Of the utmost importance among the phosphatidylcholines are, for example, the lecithins, which are distinguished by the general structure

in which R 'and R "typically have unbranched aliphatic radicals of 15 or 17 carbon atoms and up to 4 cis double bonds.

Advantageously, cleaning preparations according to the invention are in the form of gels and contain one or more gelling agents or hydrocolloids.

"Hydrocolloid" is the technological abbreviation for the correct term "hydrophilic colloid". Hydrocolloids are macromolecules that have a largely li-linear shape and intermolecular interaction forces, which allow ne ben- and Hauptvalenzbindungen between the individual molecules and thus the formation of a network-like structure. They are partially water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers that form gels or viscous solutions in aqueous systems. They increase the viscosity of the water by either binding water molecules (hydration) or by absorbing and enveloping the water in their interwoven macromolecules, while at the same time restricting the mobility of the water. Such water-soluble polymers represent a large group of chemically very different natural and synthetic polymers whose common feature is their solubility in water or aqueous media. The prerequisite for this is that these polymers have a sufficient number of hydrophilic groups for water solubility and are not too strongly crosslinked. The hydrophilic groups may be nonionic, anionic or cationic in nature, for example as follows:

The group of cosmetically and dermatologically relevant hydrocolloids can be classified as follows:

• Organic, natural compounds, such as agar-agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, Gum arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum, Starch, dextrins, gelatin, casein,
• - Organic, modified natural products such. Carboxymethyl cellulose and other cel cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and propyl cellulose and the like,
• - organic, fully synthetic compounds, such as. B. polyacrylic and polymethacrylic Ver compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides,
• - inorganic compounds, such as. As polysilicic acids, clay minerals such as Montmorillo nite, zeolites, silicas.

Hydrocolloids which are preferred according to the invention are, for example, methylcelluloses, which are referred to as the methyl ethers of cellulose. They are characterized by the following structural formula

in which R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.

Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are in general also referred to as methylcelluloses Cellulosemischether which in addition to a domi content of methyl additionally 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydro contain xybutyl groups. Particularly preferred are (hydroxypropyl) methylcelluloses, for example, under the trade name Methocel E4M at Dow Chemical Comp. available.

Also advantageous according to the invention is sodium carboxymethylcellulose, the sodium salt of the glycolic acid ether of cellulose, for which R in structural formula 1 can be a hydrogen and / or CH ₂ -COONa. Particularly preferred is the trade name Natrosol Plus 330 CS available from Aqualon, also as cellulose gum be recorded sodium carboxymethylcellulose.

Also preferred for the purposes of the present invention is xanthan (CAS No. 11138-66-2), also called xanthan gum, which is an anionic heteropolysaccharide, which is generally formed by fermentation from corn sugar and isolated as the potassium salt. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2 × 10 ⁶ to 24 × 10 ⁶ . Xanthan is formed from a chain of β-1,4-linked glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate. Xanthan gum is the name given to the first microbial anionic heteropolysaccharide. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2-15 10 ⁶ . Xanthan is formed from a chain of β-1,4-linked glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate. The number of pyruvate units determines the viscosity of xanthan. Xanthan is produced in two-day batch cultures with a yield of 70-90%, based on carbohydrate used. In this case, yields of 25-30 g / l he goes. The workup is carried out after killing the culture by precipitation with z. B. 2-propanol. Xanthan is then dried and ground.

Advantageous gelling agent for the purposes of the present invention is also carrageenan, a gelbildender and similar to agar based extract from nordatlant., to the Florideen counting red algae (Chondrus crispus and Gigartina stellata).

Frequently the term carrageenan is used for the dried algae product and carrageenan nan for the extract from this. The carrageenan precipitated from the hot-water extract of the algae is a colorless to sand-colored powder having a Molekularge weight range of 100 000-800 000 and a sulfate content of about 25%. Carrageenan, which dissolves very easily in warm water; Upon cooling, a thixotropic gel forms, even if the water content is 95-98%. The strength of the gel is effected by the double helix structure of the carrageenan. Carrageenan has three main components: The gel-forming K fraction consists of D-galactose-4-sulfate and 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactose, which are alternately glycosidically linked in the 1,3- and 1,4-positions (Agar, in contrast, contains 3,6-anhydro-α-L-galactose). The non-gelling λ-fraction is composed of 1,3-glycosidically linked D-galactose-2-sulfate and 1,4-linked D-galactose-2,6-disulfate residues u. easily soluble in cold water. The ℩-carrageenan composed of D-galactose-4-sulfate in 1,3-bond and 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactose-2-sulfate in 1,4-bond is both water-soluble and gel-forming. Other carrageenan types are also denoted by Greek letters: α, β, γ, μ, ν, ξ, π, ω, χ. The type of cations present (K ⁺ , NH ₄ ⁺ , Na ⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ ) also influences the solubility of the carrageenans.

Polyacrylates are also advantageous within the meaning of the present invention verwen Dende gelators. Polyacrylates are compounds of the general structural formula

whose molecular weight may be between about 400,000 and more than 4,000,000.  

Polyacrylates which are advantageous according to the invention are acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, in particular those selected from the group of the so-called carbomers or carbopols (Carpol® is actually a registered trademark of the BF Goodrich Company). In particular, the acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymers which are advantageous according to the invention are distinguished by the following structure:

In this R 'represents a long-chain alkyl radical and x and y are numbers which deni symbolize stoichiometric proportion of the respective comonomers.

Particularly preferred according to the invention are acrylate copolymers and / or acrylate alkyl acrylate copolymers sold under the trade designations Carbopol® 1382, Carbo pol® 981 and Carbopol® 5984 are available from the B.F. Goodrich Company.

Also advantageous are copolymers of C _10-30 alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters, which are cross-linked with an allyl ether of sucrose or an allyl ether of pentaerythritol.

Advantageous compounds are the INCI name "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acryla Particularly advantageous are those under the Handelsbezeichnun Pemulen TR1 and Pemulen TR2 are available from B.F. Goodrich Company.

The total amount of one or more hydrocolloids is in the finished kosmeti or dermatological preparations advantageously less than 1.5 wt .-%, preferably between 0.1 and 1.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, ge chooses.  

It is advantageous in the context of the present invention, if the content of one or several polyacrylates in the cosmetic or dermatological cleansing emulsion from the range of 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.7 to 1.5 wt .-% is selected, each based on the total weight of the preparations

Cosmetic preparations, which are cosmetic cleansing preparations for the skin can be in liquid or solid form.

The compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the abovementioned sub optionally punching the customary in cosmetics additives, such as par fumes, dyes, antimicrobials, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing agents and Se marketing agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, con preservatives, bactericides, pigments having a coloring effect, Ver thickening, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation tion such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic Lö semittel or silicone derivatives.

An additional content of antioxidants is generally preferred. According to the invention As cheap antioxidants all can be used for cosmetic and / or dermatological Suitable or common antioxidants can be used.

It is also advantageous to add antioxidants to the preparations according to the invention. Advantageously, the antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg, glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg, urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D- Carnosine, L-car nosin and their derivatives (eg, anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg, α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (eg B. dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl) and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, Choleste ryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, Dilaurylthiodipropionat, Distearylthiodipropio nat, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and Sulfoximine compounds (eg, buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionins ulfone, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerated gene dosages (eg. Pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (for example α-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (for example citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid , Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives ( for example, ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg, vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate), as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and their derivatives, α Glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylideneglucitol, camo sin, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacetic acid, Nordihy droguajaretsäure, trihydroxybutyrophenone, hamsäure and their derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) Selenium and its derivatives (z. B. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the inventively suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these drugs.

The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the Emulsions are preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the Zu preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives are the antioxidant (s) advantageous, the respective concentrations of which range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.

If vitamin A, or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives, the or which are antioxidants is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the Range from 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation, too choose.

The following examples in which washing preparations for hair and body care be are to be written, the inventive compositions to illustrate, without but it is intended to limit the invention to these examples. The numerical values  in the examples, weight percentages are based on the total weight the respective preparations.  

example 1

shower gel

Example 2

Mild shower gel

Example 3

Gel-shaped preparation

Example 4

shower emulsion

Examples 5-7

Conditioner shampoo with pearlescent

Examples 8-10

clear conditioner shampoo

Examples 11-13

clear light shampoo with volume effect

Examples 14 + 15

Soap

basic soaps

color slurry

Example 14

The basic soap noodles are mixed with the color slurry and the other components in egg NEN usual soap mixer (screw mixer with perforated sieve) dosed by mehrmali Homogenizing homogenized, discharged via an extruder, cut and in usually processed into pieces.

Example 15

The basic soap noodles are mixed with the color slurry and the other components in egg NEN usual soap mixer (screw mixer with perforated sieve) dosed by mehrmali Homogenizing homogenized, discharged via an extruder, cut and in usually processed into pieces.

Example 16

syndet

basic soaps

Example 16

The basic soap noodles are mixed with the remaining components in a common soaps mixer (screw mixer with perforated screen) dosed, by mixing several times ho Mogenisiert, discharged via an extruder, cut and in the usual way to Processed pieces

The IDS used is tetrasodium imino disuccinate, a solid fabric from the company Bayer with an active content of about 60% on the free acid bezo gene.

Claims (7)

1. Cosmetic and dermatological cleaning preparations containing

• a) an effective amount of one or more surfactants and
• b) an effective amount of iminodisuccinic acid and / or its salts.

2. Using a combination of

• a) an effective amount of one or more surfactants, and
• b) an effective amount of iminodibemic acid and / or its salts for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological cleansing preparations.

3. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that the total amount Iminodisuccinic acid and / or its salts in the finished cosmetic or the matological preparations in the range of 0.1-25.0% by weight, preferably 0.5- 15.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations. 4. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that they are in the form of gels available. 5. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that they are in the form of liquid gene dosage forms are present. 6. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that they are in the form of solid Soap or Syndetstücken present. 7. Cosmetic or dermatological cleansing emulsions according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant or surfactants are selected from the group consisting of sodium acylglutamate, myristoyl sarcosine, TEA lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate, dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate, sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate, and sodium C _12-13 pareth sulfate, sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate, benzalkonium chloride, Alkyl betaine, alkylamidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultaine, sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acyl amphodiacetate and sodium acyl amphopropionate, cocamide MEA / DEA / MIPA, lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and co-coglyco sid.