WO1999055300A1 - Compositions de produits cosmetiques pour le soin de la peau - Google Patents

Compositions de produits cosmetiques pour le soin de la peau Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1999055300A1
WO1999055300A1 PCT/EP1999/002519 EP9902519W WO9955300A1 WO 1999055300 A1 WO1999055300 A1 WO 1999055300A1 EP 9902519 W EP9902519 W EP 9902519W WO 9955300 A1 WO9955300 A1 WO 9955300A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
skin
composition
cosmetic
branches
exxal
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP1999/002519
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English (en)
Inventor
John Steven Bajor
Manisha Narayan Mahajan
Stewart Paton Granger
Stephan Samuel Habif
Laura Rose Palanker
Original Assignee
Unilever Plc
Unilever N.V.
Hindustan Lever Limited
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Application filed by Unilever Plc, Unilever N.V., Hindustan Lever Limited filed Critical Unilever Plc
Priority to AU38165/99A priority Critical patent/AU3816599A/en
Publication of WO1999055300A1 publication Critical patent/WO1999055300A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/70—Biological properties of the composition as a whole

Definitions

  • Cosmetic methods and compositions for conditioning human skin by topical application to the skin of cosmetic compositions containing branched fatty alcohols Cosmetic methods and compositions for conditioning human skin by topical application to the skin of cosmetic compositions containing branched fatty alcohols.
  • Cosmetic products which improve the appearance of skin are increasingly popular with consumers. Frequently, consumers seek to alleviate or delay the signs of aged or photoaged skin, such as fine lines and wrinkles, dry and sagging skin. Consumers also seek other benefits in addition to anti-aging.
  • a frequent, undesirable skin condition is "oily skin,” the condition which results from the excessive amount of sebum on the skin.
  • Sebum is skin oil which is produced by sebocytes (cells of the sebaceous glands in the skin) and is then secreted to the skin surface.
  • Oily skin is associated with a shiny, undesirable appearance and a disagreeable tactile sensation. Oily skin affects various age groups. Cosmetic products which provide both sebum control and anti- aging benefits are highly desirable.
  • US Patent 4,496,536 discloses a cosmetic preparation for treating oily hair or seborrhea, which contains at least one long-chain alkanol and at least one anti-oxidant .
  • the long-chain alkanol is described as having 2 -
  • compositions according to the present invention include alcohols that differ from the Moller alcohols at least in the minimum chain length and the minimum number and length of the branches . Contrary to the experimental showing in the Moller patent, the alcohols included in the present invention suppress sebum excretion, even when used alone.
  • compositions according to the invention employ a combination of the alcohol with an oil- absorbing powder, e.g. silica, which provides an immediate relief from sebum accumulation on the skin. If silica alone is employed, high amounts are needed to provide effective oil control. Unfortunately, the use of high levels of silica is not practical since it results in whitening of the skin.
  • an oil absorbing powder e.g. silica
  • the inventive compositions can contain an oil -absorbing powder in an amount which does not result in whitening of the skin, yet compositions are effective for sebum suppression.
  • US Patent 5,344,850 discloses topical compositions for treating or preventing acne, the compositions containing C18 saturated or unsaturated alcohol with four methyl branches.
  • an anti-acne agent does not necessarily possess antisebum activity.
  • benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid are well-established anti-acne agents, but they do not decrease sebum output. See Cunliffe, et al .
  • the present invention includes a skin care cosmetic composition comprising:
  • the present invention also includes a cosmetic method of controlling or preventing an oily skin condition, especially in the facial area, by applying to the skin a composition from 0.001% to 100% of an alcohol containing a total of at least 9 carbon atoms and containing at least two branches.
  • the invention also includes a cosmetic method of reducing, preventing or controlling sebum secretion from sebocytes by applying a composition comprising from about 0.001% to about 100% of an alcohol containing a total of at least 9 carbon atoms and containing at least two branches .
  • the invention also includes a cosmetic method of stimulating collagen and glycosaminoglycan synthesis by fibroblasts in the skin, by applying a composition comprising from about 0.001% to about 100% of an alcohol containing a total of at least 9 carbon atoms and containing at least two branches .
  • the invention also includes a cosmetic method of treating or delaying chronoaged, photoaged, dry, lined or wrinkled skin, shielding the skin from harmful UVA and UVB light (sunscreening) , increasing stratum corneum firmness and flexibility, and generally increasing the quality of skin by applying to the skin the inventive composition.
  • the present invention also comprises the cosmetic use of the inventive skin care composition for providing a skin care benefit selected from the following; reducing or preventing oily skin conditions; reducing or preventing sebum secretion from sebocytes; stimulating collagen and glycosaminoglycan synthesis by fibroblasts in skin; and/or treating aged, photoaged, dry, lined and/or wrinkled skin.
  • inventive cosmetic methods, compositions and uses provide control of sebum secretion from sebocytes, improved 6 -
  • skin as used herein includes amongst others the skin on the face, neck, chest, back, arms, hands and scalp.
  • the inventive methods and compositions include an alcohol containing a total of at least 9 carbon atoms, generally from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and at least two branches.
  • the preferred alcohols contain a total of at least 10 carbon atoms, in order to obtain maximum efficacy.
  • the most preferred alcohols according to the invention contain from 2 to 5 branches, in order to maximize efficacy at minimum cost.
  • the branches are methyl branches, due to commercial availability.
  • the alcohol may contain a mix of various chain lengths' alcohols. Such mixed alcohol is suitable for use in the present invention, as long as the predominant alcohol in the mix contains a total of at least 9 carbon atoms and at least two branches.
  • the alcohol is employed in the inventive methods in an amount of from 0.001% to about 100%, preferably from 0.001% to 50% and more preferably from 0.1% to 20%, most preferably from 0.1% to 10%.
  • compositions include an oil-absorbing powder, in addition to the alcohol. Consequently, alcohol is employed in an amount of from 0.001% to 50%, preferably from 0.1% to 20%, most preferably from 0.1% to 10%, in order to accommodate the oil-absorbing powder and the cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
  • branched alcohols within the scope of the invention are commercially available, e.g. from Exxon or Henkel .
  • inventive compositions and the preferred inventive methods also include an oil-absorbing powder.
  • suitable oil -absorbing powder include but are not limited to silica (preferably fumed) , talcum, and clay.
  • the preferred oil-absorbing powder is fumed silica, due to its superior oil-absorbing capacity.
  • the oil-absorbing powder provides an immediate sebum control, but not a long-term relief, since it cannot be used in large amounts without whitening the skin.
  • the oil-absorbing powder is present in an amount of no greater than 1%, generally from 0.01% to 1%, preferably from 0.1% to 1%, most preferably from 0.5% to 1%.
  • the alcohol employed in the inventive methods and compositions is liquid, and thus the invention is effective even in the absence of the carrier, the compositions according to the invention comprise a cosmetically acceptable vehicle to act as a diluant, dispersant or carrier for branched alcohol and for oil- absorbing powder in the composition, so as to facilitate their distribution when the composition is applied to the skin.
  • the vehicle may be aqueous, anhydrous or an emulsion.
  • the compositions are aqueous or an emulsion, especially water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion.
  • Water when present will be in amounts which may range from 5 to 99%, preferably from 40 to 90%, optimally between 60 and 90% by weight .
  • relatively volatile solvents may also serve as carriers within compositions of the present invention.
  • Most preferred are monohydric C 1 -C 3 alkanols.
  • the amount of monohydric alkanol may range from 1 to 70%, preferably from 10 to 50%, optimally between 15 and 40% by weight.
  • Emollient materials may also serve as cosmetically acceptable carriers. These may be in the form of silicone oils and synthetic esters. Amounts of the emollients may range anywhere from 0.1 to 50%, preferably between 1 and 20% by weight . - 9 -
  • Silicone oils may be divided into the volatile and non-volatile variety.
  • volatile refers to those materials which have a measurable vapor pressure at ambient temperature.
  • Volatile silicone oils are preferably chosen from cyclic or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 9, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms. Linear volatile silicone materials generally have viscosities less than about 5 centistokes at 25°C while cyclic materials typically have viscosities of less than about 10 centistokes.
  • Nonvolatile silicone oils useful as an emollient material include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes and polyether siloxane copolymers .
  • the essentially non-volatile polyalkyl siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethyl siloxanes with viscosities of from about 5 to about 25 million centistokes at 25 °C.
  • polydimethyl siloxanes with viscosities of from about 5 to about 25 million centistokes at 25 °C.
  • preferred non-volatile emollients useful in the present compositions are the polydimethyl siloxanes having viscosities from about 10 to about 400 centistokes at 25°C.
  • ester emollients are:
  • Alkenyl or alkyl esters of fatty acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms examples thereof include isoarachidyl neopentanoate , isononyl isonanonoate, oleyl myristate, oleyl stearate, and oleyl oleate.
  • Ether-esters such as fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols.
  • Ethylene glycol mono and di- fatty acid esters diethylene glycol mono- and di- fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol (200-6000) mono- and di-fatty acid esters, propylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol 2000 monooleate, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyglycerol poly- fatty esters, ethoxylated glyceryl monostearate, 1,3 -butylene glycol monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid esters, and polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters are satisfactory polyhydric alcohol esters.
  • Wax esters such as beeswax, spermaceti, myristyl myristate, stearyl stearate and arachidyl behenate.
  • Sterols esters of which cholesterol fatty acid esters are examples thereof .
  • Fatty acids having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms may also be included as cosmetically acceptable carriers for compositions of this invention.
  • Illustrative of this category are pelargonic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, hydroxystearic, oleic, linoleic, ricinoleic, arachidic, behenic and erucic acids.
  • Humectants of the polyhydric alcohol type may also be employed as cosmetically acceptable carriers in compositions 11
  • humectant aids in increasing the effectiveness of the emollient, reduces scaling, stimulates removal of built-up scale and improves skin feel.
  • Typical polyhydric alcohols include glycerol, polyalkylene glycols and more preferably alkylene polyols and their derivatives, including propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1 , 2 , 6-hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and mixtures thereof.
  • the humectant is preferably propylene glycol or sodium hyaluronate .
  • the amount of humectant may range anywhere from 0.5 to 30%, preferably between 1 and 15% by weight of the composition.
  • Thickeners may also be utilized as part of the cosmetically acceptable carrier of compositions according to the present invention.
  • Typical thickeners include crosslinked acrylates (e.g. Carbopol 982), hydrophobically-modified acrylates (e.g. Carbopol 1382), cellulosic derivatives and natural gums.
  • useful cellulosic derivatives are sodium carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose and hydroxymethyl cellulose.
  • Natural gums suitable for the present invention include guar, xanthan, sclerotium, carrageenan, pectin and combinations of these gums.
  • Amounts of the thickener may range from 0.0001 to 5%, usually from 0.001 to 1%, optimally from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight.
  • cosmetically acceptable carrier in amounts from 1 to 99.9%, preferably from 80 to 99% by weight.
  • An oil or oily material may be present, together with an emulsifier to provide either a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion, depending largely on the average hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of the emulsifier employed.
  • HLB hydrophilic-lipophilic balance
  • Surfactants may also be present in cosmetic compositions of the present invention. Total concentration of the surfactant will range from 0.1 to 40%, preferably from 1 to 20%, optimally from 1 to 5% by weight of the composition.
  • the surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric actives.
  • Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are those with a
  • C ⁇ o ⁇ C 2 o fatty alcohol or acid hydrophobe condensed with from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide per mole of hydrophobe; C 2 -C 10 alkyl phenols condensed with from 2 to 20 moles of alkylene oxide; mono- and di- fatty acid esters of ethylene glycol; fatty acid monoglyceride; sorbitan, mono- and di- C 8 -C 20 fatty acids; block copolymers (ethylene oxide/propylene oxide) ; and polyoxyethylene sorbitan as well as combinations thereof.
  • Alkyl polyglycosides and saccharide fatty amides are also suitable nonionic surfactants.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants include soap, alkyl ether sulfate and sulfonates, alkyl sulfates and sulfonates, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkyl and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, 13
  • Actives are defined as skin benefit agents other than emollients and other than ingredients that merely improve the physical characteristics of the composition. Although not limited to this category, general examples include additional anti-sebum ingredients and sunscreens.
  • Sunscreens include those materials commonly employed to block ultraviolet light.
  • Illustrative compounds are the derivatives of PABA, cinnamate and salicylate.
  • avobenzophenone Parsol 1789 ®
  • octyl methoxycinnamate and 2- hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone also known as oxybenzone
  • Octyl methoxycinnamate and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone are commercially available under the trademarks, Parsol MCX and Benzophenone-3 , respectively.
  • the exact amount of sunscreen employed in the compositions can vary depending upon the degree of protection desired from the sun's UV radiation.
  • Suitable preservatives include alkyl esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid, hydantoin derivatives, propionate salts, and a variety of quaternary ammonium compounds. Particularly preferred preservatives of this invention are methyl paraben, propyl paraben, phenoxyethanol and benzyl 14
  • Preservatives will usually be employed in amounts ranging from about 0.1% to 2% by weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention is intended primarily as a product for topical application to human skin, especially as an agent for controlling or preventing excessive sebum secretion.
  • a quantity of the composition for example from 1 to 100 ml, is applied to exposed areas of the skin, from a suitable container or applicator and, if necessary, it is then spread over and/or rubbed into the skin using the hand or fingers or a suitable device.
  • the cosmetic skin composition of the invention can be in any form, e.g. formulated as a toner, gel, lotion, a fluid cream, or a cream.
  • the composition can be packaged in a suitable container to suit its viscosity and intended use by the consumer.
  • a lotion or fluid cream can be packaged in a bottle or a roll-ball applicator or a propellant-driven aerosol device or a container fitted with a pump suitable for finger operation.
  • the composition is a cream, it can simply be stored in a non-deformable bottle or squeeze container, such as a tube or a lidded jar.
  • the invention accordingly also provides a closed container containing a cosmetically acceptable composition as herein defined. 15
  • composition may also be included in capsules such as those described in U.S. Patent No. 5,063,057, incorporated by reference herein.
  • Exxal 7 Mixture of branched and straight chain isomers, about 40% dimethyl pentanols.
  • This example measured production of procollagen I by fibroblasts in response to treatment with various alcohols, - 16
  • Collagen is a predominant skin protein. Its synthesis decreases with aging or photodamage . The degradation or destruction of collagen increases the tensile strength of the skin causing wrinkles and laxity. Many studies involving human subjects have shown that collagen type I is decreased with increasing severity of photodamage (See Kligman, A., JAMA, (1969), 210, pp. 2377-2380; Lavker, R. , J. Inv Derm., (1979), 73, 79-66; Smith J. et al . , J. Inv. Derm., (1962), 39, pp. 347-350; and Shuster, S. et al . , Br. J. Dermatol . , (1975), 93, pp.
  • Neonatal human dermal fibroblasts were purchased from Clonetics Corp., San Diego, CA. All materials for cell culture were purchased from Life Technologies, NY (and used in passages 5-10) . Cells were seeded at a density of approximately 10,000/well in the inner 48 wells of a 96-well plate in a medium containing DMEM (Dulbecco's Modified
  • Test compounds were used at concentrations indicated in Table 1 below. Control did not contain a test compound. After 24 hours, the test compound solution or the control solution was removed and cells redosed with lOO ⁇ l of a solution of a test compound in serum-free DMEM. Test compounds were used at concentrations indicated in Table 1 below.
  • test compound solution was removed and stored over the weekend at 4°C with protease inhibitor (Aprotinin from Sigma) in a ratio of aprotinin to media of 1:200.
  • protease inhibitor Aprotinin from Sigma
  • the test compound solution was then diluted in DMEM (approximately 20 ⁇ l sample in 200 ⁇ l DMEM) .
  • TRIS buffered saline TRIS buffered saline
  • BioRad slot blot apparatus BioRad Labs, CA
  • 100ml TBS was added per well.
  • Vacuum was used to suck TBS through membrane.
  • the test compound solution or control was vortexed, then 100 ⁇ l was loaded per well and gravity filtered.
  • Procollagen from the test solution was bound to the membrane at this point in the procedure.
  • Membrane was removed from the apparatus, excess cut off, and bottom right corner notched for orientation.
  • the membrane was placed in blocking solution (5% milk powder in Dulbecco's phosphate buffered saline) overnight at 4°C, with shaking. The membrane was then incubated for 1.5 hrs at room temperature with 1.5mL Rat Anti-Human Procollagen Amino-Terminal Ab (Chemicon MAB1912) in TBS with 0.1% BSA (ratio of antibody to buffer/BSA was 1:100) in a sealed bag with shaking. The membrane was then removed; washed 3 times for 5 minutes in TBS/0.1% Tween.
  • blocking solution 5% milk powder in Dulbecco's phosphate buffered saline
  • BSA ratio of antibody to buffer/BSA was 1:100
  • the membrane was then incubated for 1 hour at room temperature in 2 mL of Biotinylated Anti-Rat Peroxidase-Conjugated Ab (Vector Labs) in TBS with 0.1% BSA (ratio of antibody to buffer/BSA was 1:1000) in a sealed bag with shaking.
  • the membrane was washed 3 times for 5 minutes in TBS/0. l%Tween. 3 mL PBS was incubated with 30 ⁇ l each of solutions A and B from Vectastain Kit for 30 minutes. The membrane was placed in the resulting solution for 30 minutes in a sealed bag with shaking. The membrane was then removed and washed twice for 5 minutes in TBS/ 0.1%Tween. The membrane was then stained using the following solution:
  • TGF-B is a positive control, ensuring the integrity of the assay: transforming growth factor beta is known to increase procollagen I in fibroblasts.
  • GAGs are a family of polysaccharides which (with the exception of hyaluronic acid (HA) ) can be linked to a protein core, forming a proteoglycan.
  • the main GAGs in the dermis are HA and dermatan sulfate, with chondroitin-4 -sulfate and chondroitin-6-sulfate present in small amounts.
  • GAGs are essential components of the extracellular matrix, although they make up only 0.2% of the dry weight of skin.
  • GAGs hydrate in the skin HA can hold up to lOOOx its mass in water) and maintain basement membrane integrity, regulate cellular interactions and nutrient transport, and are involved in collagen and possibly elastic fiber formation.
  • the proportion of GAGs (especially HA) in the dermis has been shown to be diminished with aging. See Perlish et al , "The Role of Glycosaminoglycans in Aging of the Skin.”
  • Retinoic acid the benchmark anti-aging active, has been shown to increase GAG content of the spinous and granular layers of the epidermis and the papillary dermis of aged skin in vivo. See Kligman et al . , "Effects of topical tretinoin on non-sun-exposed protected skin of the elderly, " J. Am Acad Dermatol 1993;29:25-33. 21
  • Neonatal human dermal fibroblasts were purchased from Clonetics Corp., San Diego, CA and used in passages 5-10. All materials for cell culture were purchased from Life Technologies, NY. Cells were seeded at a density of approximately 50,000/well in a 12-well plate in a medium containing DMEM (Dulbecco's Modified Eagle's Medium), high- glucose supplemented with 2 mM L-glutamine, 10% fetal bovine serum, and antibiotic and antimycotic solutions. Cells were then grown to confluence for 2 days. At confluence, each well was rinsed in serum- free DMEM and the cells dosed with test compounds (in triplicate) in 750 ⁇ L of serum-free DMEM. Test compounds were used at a concentration indicated in Table 2 below. Controls did not contain any test compounds.
  • DMEM Dulbecco's Modified Eagle's Medium
  • test compounds in triplicate
  • this medium was aspirated and the treatment step repeated. After a second 24 -hour period, this medium, containing the soluble GAGs, was collected and frozen until analysis .
  • TGF-B is a positive control, ensuring the integrity of the assay: transforming growth factor beta is known to increase production of GAGs by fibroblasts.
  • This example reports an in vitro analysis of sebum suppression by various test compounds.
  • Radioactive label was prepared by adding 100 ⁇ l of 14 C labeled - 24
  • acetic acid (Amersham, sodium salt, specific activity of 56 mCi/mmol) to 10 ml of 25 mM sodium acetate buffer. Then, 50 ⁇ l was added to each well containing the sebocytes and test agents . The cultures were returned to the incubator for four hours. Thereafter, the sebocytes were rinsed three times with fresh phosphate buffered saline (PBS) to remove unbound active and radioactive label. Radioactive label remaining in the cultured sebocytes was counted using a Beckman scintillation counter. The results were expressed as % reduction compared to control (ethanol) . The higher the number, the better the result.
  • PBS phosphate buffered saline
  • Exxal 10, Exxal 12, and Exxal 13 (within the scope of the invention) all were effective at suppressing sebum secretion.
  • the example demonstrates that the total chain length of at least 9 carbons is critical to attain sebum suppression.
  • Example 3 was repeated, using various concentrations of straight chain alcohols (no branching) which are outside the scope of the invention.
  • the results that were obtained are summarized in Table 4.
  • Example 3 was repeated, using various concentrations of alcohols which contain a single branch (outside the scope of the invention) .
  • the results that were obtained are summarized in Table 5.
  • Exxal 13 branched alcohol within the scope of the invention was an effective sebum suppressor (see Table 3) .
  • Example 3 was repeated, with the following changes: -PBS was used instead of DMEM during radiolabel incorporation; -quadruplicate samples were run, instead of triplicate; -50mM acetate buffer was used in place of 25mM to dilute the radiolabel .
  • This example reports an in-vivo assessment of skin whiteness following application of creams containing various levels of fumed silica.
  • sample cream Thirty milligrams of sample cream was applied on a 15 cm 2 circular area on the forearm of the subject. Two sites per forearm were used in the study. The creams were applied and 28 -
  • a chromameter (Minolta CR 10) was used to quantify the increase in skin whiteness.
  • the decrease in E value corresponds to an increase in skin whiteness.
  • the percent change in E value after application of the samples was calculated.
  • the samples containing silica were compared to the base formulation to evaluate the statistical significance of the increased whiteness due to addition of silica by calculating the p value using student's t-test.
  • the whiteness level was assessed visually and graded according to the following scale: (1) not white, (2) very slightly white, (3) slightly white, (4) white, (5) very white .
  • a simple cream (base formula) was prepared according to Table 7 below by heating phase A and phase B separately to 75C. Phase A was then added to phase B at 75C while mixing at 1000 rpm for 5 minutes. The sample was then homogenized 29
  • Examples 8 illustrates topical compositions according to the present invention.
  • the compositions can be processed in conventional manner. They are suitable for cosmetic use.
  • the compositions are suitable for application to oily, wrinkled, rough, aged and/or UV-damaged skin to improve the appearance and the feel thereof as well as for application to healthy skin to prevent or retard deterioration thereof .
  • Vitamine E Acetate tocopheryl acetate 0.1
  • CTFA Chemical Name weight % squalane 5 macadamia oil 5 pentaerythritol 15 tetraoctanoate petrolatum 5 glyceryl stearate 3 tocopherol acetate 0.5 butylated 0.05 hydroxytoluene methyl paraben 0.15 propyl paraben 0.15 sodium citrate 1 butylene glycol 2 glycerol 2 bentone clay 0.5 disodium EDTA 0.05 trimethyl nonanol 10 water to 100
  • CTFA or Chemical Name weight % glycerin 1 tetrasodium EDTA 0.1 cetyl alcohol 1 stearyl alcohol 1 mineral oil 5 dimethicone 1 dimethiconol 0.2 polyquaternium 37 2 steareth-21 1
  • CTFA Chemical Name weight % light mineral oil 10 stearoxytrimethylsilane 5 and stearyl alcohol dimethicone 2 stearyl stearate 10 quaternium-15 3 peg-22 dodecyl glycol 1 copolymer

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne des compositions et des procédés se rapportant à des produits cosmétiques pour le soin de la peau à base d'alcools ramifiés. Ces compositions qui agissent par une régulation de la sécrétion du sébum par les sébocytes, permettent de mieux réguler les sécrétions grasses, donnent une sensation de douceur et empêchent la peau de briller et de coller. L'invention procure également quelques bienfaits atténuant le vieillissement faisant que les rides et les atteintes de l'âge deviennent moins voyantes. L'invention, qui donne en outre de plus belles couleurs à la peau, constitue un soin contre le photovieillissement de la peau, améliore l'éclat, la transparence et le grain de la peau, tout en rendant à la peau des apparences de bonne santé et de jeunesse.
PCT/EP1999/002519 1998-04-23 1999-04-07 Compositions de produits cosmetiques pour le soin de la peau WO1999055300A1 (fr)

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AU38165/99A AU3816599A (en) 1998-04-23 1999-04-07 Skin care cosmetic compositions

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US6525198A 1998-04-23 1998-04-23
US09/065,251 1998-04-23

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WO1999055300A1 true WO1999055300A1 (fr) 1999-11-04

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Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2002002067A1 (fr) * 2000-06-30 2002-01-10 Unilever Plc Compositions cosmetiques pour la peau contenant des carboxymethylates d'alcools ramifies et/ou des ethoxylates de ceux-ci
DE10063658A1 (de) * 2000-12-20 2002-07-04 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen in Form von W/O/W-Emulsionen mit einem Gehalt an Sterinen und /oder C12-C-40-Fettsäure
DE10063660A1 (de) * 2000-12-20 2002-07-04 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen in Form von O/W-Emulsionen mit einem Gehalt an Sterinen und/oder C¶1¶¶2¶-C¶4¶¶0¶-Fettsäuren
DE10139580A1 (de) * 2001-08-10 2003-02-20 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen in Form von O/W-Emulsionen mit einem Gehalt an Sterinen und/oder C12-C40-Fettsäuren
DE10139582A1 (de) * 2001-08-10 2003-02-20 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen in Form von W/O/W-Emulsionen mit einem Gehalt an Sterinen und/oder C12-C40-Fettsäuren
JP2004501951A (ja) * 2000-06-30 2004-01-22 ユニリーバー・ナームローゼ・ベンノートシヤープ 分枝鎖アルコールのホスフェート及び／またはサルフェート及び／またはそのエトキシレートを含むスキンケア化粧品組成物
WO2004006883A1 (fr) * 2002-07-17 2004-01-22 Unilever Plc Compositions cosmetiques de soins de beaute contenant des carboxyalkylates d'alcools ramifies et/ou des alkoxylates associes

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US4478853A (en) * 1982-05-17 1984-10-23 S. C. Johnson & Son, Inc. Skin conditioning composition
US4496536A (en) * 1982-01-20 1985-01-29 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Sebosuppressive cosmetic preparations containing long-chained _alkanols and antioxidants
US4536399A (en) * 1982-10-13 1985-08-20 Norcliff Thayer, Inc. Use of fumed silica for treating oily skin and acne
EP0315912A1 (fr) * 1987-11-12 1989-05-17 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft auf Aktien Préparation supprimant la séborrhée
EP0371801A1 (fr) * 1988-12-01 1990-06-06 Unilever Plc Composition pour application topique
DE19632043A1 (de) * 1996-08-08 1998-02-12 Henkel Kgaa Sonnenschutzmittel
US5756109A (en) * 1996-09-27 1998-05-26 Chesebrough-Pond's Usa Co., Division Of Conopco, Inc. Skin care compositions containing geranyl geraniol and retinol or retinyl esters
JPH1135455A (ja) * 1997-07-18 1999-02-09 Noevir Co Ltd コラーゲン産生促進剤、及びこれを含有する皮膚の老化防止用又は創傷治癒促進用皮膚外用剤
EP0900561A1 (fr) * 1997-01-17 1999-03-10 Shiseido Company Limited Composition favorisant la production de collagene

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US4362715A (en) * 1980-05-01 1982-12-07 Pq Corporation Cosmetic vehicle
US4496536A (en) * 1982-01-20 1985-01-29 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Sebosuppressive cosmetic preparations containing long-chained _alkanols and antioxidants
US4478853A (en) * 1982-05-17 1984-10-23 S. C. Johnson & Son, Inc. Skin conditioning composition
US4536399A (en) * 1982-10-13 1985-08-20 Norcliff Thayer, Inc. Use of fumed silica for treating oily skin and acne
EP0315912A1 (fr) * 1987-11-12 1989-05-17 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft auf Aktien Préparation supprimant la séborrhée
EP0371801A1 (fr) * 1988-12-01 1990-06-06 Unilever Plc Composition pour application topique
DE19632043A1 (de) * 1996-08-08 1998-02-12 Henkel Kgaa Sonnenschutzmittel
US5756109A (en) * 1996-09-27 1998-05-26 Chesebrough-Pond's Usa Co., Division Of Conopco, Inc. Skin care compositions containing geranyl geraniol and retinol or retinyl esters
EP0900561A1 (fr) * 1997-01-17 1999-03-10 Shiseido Company Limited Composition favorisant la production de collagene
JPH1135455A (ja) * 1997-07-18 1999-02-09 Noevir Co Ltd コラーゲン産生促進剤、及びこれを含有する皮膚の老化防止用又は創傷治癒促進用皮膚外用剤

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Cited By (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2002002067A1 (fr) * 2000-06-30 2002-01-10 Unilever Plc Compositions cosmetiques pour la peau contenant des carboxymethylates d'alcools ramifies et/ou des ethoxylates de ceux-ci
US6534073B2 (en) 2000-06-30 2003-03-18 Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa Division Of Conopco, Inc. Skin care cosmetic compositions containing carboxymethylates of branched alcohols and/or ethoxylates thereof
JP2004501951A (ja) * 2000-06-30 2004-01-22 ユニリーバー・ナームローゼ・ベンノートシヤープ 分枝鎖アルコールのホスフェート及び／またはサルフェート及び／またはそのエトキシレートを含むスキンケア化粧品組成物
JP2004501946A (ja) * 2000-06-30 2004-01-22 ユニリーバー・ナームローゼ・ベンノートシヤープ 分枝鎖アルコールのカルボキシメチラート及び／またはそのエトキシレートを含むスキンケア化粧品組成物
DE10063658A1 (de) * 2000-12-20 2002-07-04 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen in Form von W/O/W-Emulsionen mit einem Gehalt an Sterinen und /oder C12-C-40-Fettsäure
DE10063660A1 (de) * 2000-12-20 2002-07-04 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen in Form von O/W-Emulsionen mit einem Gehalt an Sterinen und/oder C¶1¶¶2¶-C¶4¶¶0¶-Fettsäuren
DE10139580A1 (de) * 2001-08-10 2003-02-20 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen in Form von O/W-Emulsionen mit einem Gehalt an Sterinen und/oder C12-C40-Fettsäuren
DE10139582A1 (de) * 2001-08-10 2003-02-20 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen in Form von W/O/W-Emulsionen mit einem Gehalt an Sterinen und/oder C12-C40-Fettsäuren
WO2004006883A1 (fr) * 2002-07-17 2004-01-22 Unilever Plc Compositions cosmetiques de soins de beaute contenant des carboxyalkylates d'alcools ramifies et/ou des alkoxylates associes

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FR2777779A1 (fr) 1999-10-29
AR019084A1 (es) 2001-12-26
AU3816599A (en) 1999-11-16

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