WO1999022613A1

WO1999022613A1 - Shaped insert with a bell-shaped cross section

Info

Publication number: WO1999022613A1
Application number: PCT/EP1998/006858
Authority: WO
Inventors: Ulrich Höfer
Original assignee: Wilh. Wissner Gmbh & Co. Kommanditgesellschaft
Priority date: 1997-11-04
Filing date: 1998-10-29
Publication date: 1999-05-14
Also published as: DE19748656C1; AU1156499A; EP1028638A1

Abstract

Disclosed is a shaped insert (1) for items of clothing maintaining women's breasts, comprising a convex outer contour (2) and a concave inner contour (3) between which the cross section of said insert extends with a first area facing the outer contour and a second area facing the inner contour. The inventive insert is designed to display as low a tendency as possible towards breakage while providing as much flexural strength as possible along the shaped plane and as much flexibility as possible perpendicular to said plane. In order to achieve this, the measured width of the cross section in the second area (B2) perpendicular to the plane covered by the shaped insert (1) is greater than that of the first area (B1).

Description

Shaped bar with a cup-shaped cross-section

I. Field of application

The invention relates to a shaped bracket for items of clothing holding the female breast and an item of clothing for holding the female breast.

II. Technical background

Such shaped brackets usually consist of bent wire and are inserted into the baskets of corsetry, e.g. of bras, bikini tops, bustiers etc., incorporated. They keep the fabric material of the corsetry under mechanical stress, e.g. when walking, stable on the body of the wearer and thus ensure a secure fit and a shapely chest.

Various demands are made of the shaped brackets with regard to their flexural rigidity on the one hand and flexibility on the other. On the one hand, they should have the greatest possible bending stiffness with respect to those bends which result from forces which occur in the plane spanned by the bent bow (bow plane). On the other hand, they should be as soft or flexible as possible in relation to bends resulting from forces acting perpendicular to the plane of the frame. Finally, another requirement is to ensure the highest possible wearing comfort, ie to meet the two requirements mentioned above without the wearer feeling any uncomfortable pressing or pinching. In addition, the shaped brackets should have the lowest possible tendency to fracture in the event of bending stresses occurring during use. These bending stresses are usually the superimposition of a static load on the one hand and a dynamic load on the other. The static load arises when the wearer puts on the article of clothing provided with the shaped hanger and then joins the two ends of the back supports attached to the side of the cups and hooks them together. As a result, the back supports are stretched and the shaped brackets are widened, so that the static bending load on the shaped bracket acting in the bracket plane occurs. The dynamic bending load superimposed on this static bending load arises from vibrations of the breast, which occur as a result of movements of the wearer and additionally cyclically load and unload the shaped bracket. Similar loads can also occur during washing processes.

Shaped stirrups are known from the prior art which have a rectangular cross section or a bone-shaped cross section, the long axis of which in each case lies essentially in the plane of the stirrup. A bone-shaped cross section is proposed, for example, in WO 95/19114. In the case of the known shaped stirrups, stirrup breaks can occur again and again in the region of the low point of the stirrup shape. Such temple breaks could be prevented by adequate dimensioning of the cross-section, ie increasing the cross-sectional width perpendicular to the temple plane over the entire cross-sectional height lying in the temple plane. Although this measure would also desirably increase the bending stiffness in the temple plane, it would undesirably reduce the flexibility perpendicular to the temple plane. III. Presentation of the invention

a) Technical task

It is therefore the object of the present invention to provide a shaped hanger for items of clothing holding the female breast and an item of clothing for holding the female breast which, with the greatest possible rigidity in the temple level and the greatest possible flexibility perpendicular to the temple level, has the lowest possible tendency to break having.

b) solving the problem

This object is achieved by means of a shaped hanger or a piece of clothing according to claim 1 or 14. Further embodiments of the invention result from the subclaims.

According to the invention, it is proposed to form a shaped hanger for the female breast of clothing items which has a convex outer contour and a concave inner contour, between which the cross section of the hanger extends with a first region facing the outer contour and a second region facing the inner contour that the width of the cross section measured perpendicular to the plane spanned by the stirrup (stirrup plane) is larger in the second region than in the first region. The width of the cross section should be substantially larger at every point in the second region than at every point in the first region.

The first area and the second area are directly adjacent to one another. Furthermore, the first area borders directly on the outer contour and the second area directly borders on the inner contour. Any end zones of the cross section facing the inner or outer contour, in which the latter is slightly curved, do not belong to the areas designed according to the invention and are neglected, since they are of little importance in comparison to the total height of the cross-section lying in the temple plane. Such curvatures can arise, for example, when flat rolling a round wire.

Most temple breaks are permanent breaks, which start from the concave inner contour at the low point of the temple shape and then continue in the direction of the convex outer contour until there is a residual break. This fracture profile results from the fact that the bending loads occurring in the plane of the bracket cause tensile stresses in the cross-sectional area assigned to the inner contour and compressive stresses in the cross-sectional area assigned to the outer contour. The first-mentioned tensile stresses are responsible for the breakages in the temple, the effects of which are exacerbated in the presence of any grooves, micropore, microcracks or other damage in the shaped bracket material.

In this context, the cup-shaped cross section of the shaped bracket according to the invention has the advantage that, with suitable dimensions, a relatively high section modulus can be achieved with respect to the cross-sectional axis running perpendicular to the bracket plane. As a result, those bending stresses that occur due to the bending loads acting in the plane of the frame are significantly reduced and the tendency to break is reduced accordingly. Furthermore, according to the invention, a high moment of inertia can be achieved with respect to the cross-sectional axis running perpendicular to the plane of the frame, as a result of which the desired high bending stiffness of the shaped frame is achieved in the plane of the frame.

In addition, due to the reduced width of the cross section in the first area assigned to the outer contour, a very low moment of inertia is achieved with respect to the cross-sectional axis lying in the plane of the frame, as a result of which the shaped frame according to the invention becomes correspondingly soft or flexible perpendicular to the frame level.

The cup shape of the cross section of the shaped bracket according to the invention can be realized in various ways. The measured perpendicular to the temple plane The width of the cross section can be constant in the first area, for example, and can increase continuously and with straight cross-section flanks in the second area up to the inner contour. If necessary, the width within the second area can initially increase from the boundary to the first area and then have a constant course up to the inner contour. Furthermore, cross-sectional shapes are conceivable in which the width in the first area continuously increases from the outer contour to the inner contour and is only constant in the second area.

It is also possible to choose cross sections in which the width increases continuously in the first and in the second region from the outer contour to the inner contour. In particular, this increase can take place in the first area and in the second area with rectilinear cross-sectional flanks and at the same angle of inclination with respect to the cross-sectional axis lying in the temple plane.

The shaped bracket according to the invention can also consist of a plurality of bracket elements arranged or layered one behind the other in the direction perpendicular to the bracket plane, so that in this case the cup-shaped overall cross section is composed of two or more individual cross sections.

According to the invention, it is also possible to provide a sheathing which surrounds the cross section of the shaped bracket and which preferably consists of plastic. The outer shape of the casing can be adapted to the contour of the cross section, so that the thickness of the casing is essentially constant. Deviating external shapes, such as a rectangular, elliptical or teardrop shape, are also conceivable. c) working examples

Several embodiments of a shaped bow according to the invention are described below with reference to the drawings. Show it:

1: a top view of a shaped bracket according to the invention,

2: a cross section according to section A-A in FIG. 1 of a first embodiment of the shaped bracket according to the invention,

2A: a partial cross section according to section A-A in FIG. 1 with a flat rolled end face,

3: a cross section according to section A-A in FIG. 1 of a second embodiment of the shaped bracket according to the invention,

4: a cross section according to section A-A in FIG. 1 of a third embodiment of the shaped bracket according to the invention, different geometrical relationships being shown in the left and right half of the FIG.

5: a cross section according to section A-A in FIG. 1 of a fourth embodiment of the shaped bracket according to the invention,

Fig. 6,7,8: Cross sections according to section A-A in Fig. 1 with various jackets according to the invention, and

9: a comparison cross section according to the prior art.

1 shows a curved shaped bracket 1 according to the invention, which has a concavely curved inner contour 3 and a convexly curved outer contour 2. The two ends of the shaped iron 1 are each rounded off with a cap 7 is preferably produced by applying a drop of plastic to the respective end.

The shaped hanger 1 shown in FIG. 1 is the hanger provided for the right cup of a brassiere, bikini top, bustier, corset, bodysuit, etc. This can be seen from the fact that the substantially U-shaped bracket 1 does not have an exact U-shape, but the right half of the bracket in FIG. 1 protrudes further up than the left half of the bracket. This has the effect that the left end of the shaped bracket 1 does not protrude too far into the wearer's neckline.

FIG. 2 shows a first embodiment of a cross-section 4 according to section AA in FIG. 1. The cross-section 4 is symmetrical with the long cross-sectional axis 8 lying in the stirrup plane x, z and is in a first or lower region B and a second or upper region B ₂ divided. In the first region B- assigned to the outer contour 2, the cross-sectional flanks run essentially parallel to the cross-sectional axis 8 or the width of the cross-section 4 is constant and is d = 0.42 mm. The second area B ₂ is in turn divided into a first zone Zi facing the first area Bi and a second zone Z ₂ facing the inner contour. In the first zone Z, the width of the cross-section 4 increases continuously toward the inner contour, the two cross-sectional flanks diverge in a straight line and at an angle of inclination of β = 10 ° relative to the long cross-sectional axis 8 until they are a distance of a = 0.68 mm achieved. In the adjoining zone Z ₂ , the cross-sectional flanks again run essentially parallel to the cross-sectional axis 8 and the cross-section 4 here has the constant width a = 0.68 mm, which is larger than the width d in the first region Bi.

As can be seen in FIG. 2, the first region Bi borders directly on the outer contour 2 and the second region B ₂ directly borders on the inner contour 3. Furthermore, the areas B- and B ₂ directly adjoin one another, with their

Border 6 has a distance of c = 1.5 mm from the outer contour 2. The height of cross-section 4 including its inner contour or outer contour-side curvatures 9 or 10 is b = 2.6 mm.

Overall, the cross section 4 shown in FIG. 2 thus has a chalice or, in the broadest sense, a T shape. The boundary 6 shown in FIG. 2 between the first area Bi and the second area B ₂ could also be shifted upwards and the zone Zi could accordingly be made very short or omitted entirely, so that the area Bi is very close to the zone Z _2nd approaches or directly adjoins them, the angle of inclination β increasing as zone Z progressively decreases and finally assuming the value β = 90 ° when zone Zi is no longer present. This means that the transition between the first area Bi and the second area B ₂ , which then corresponds to the zone Z ₂ , is stepped.

2A shows a partial cross section of a shaped bracket 1, in which the wider end face 5 associated with the inner contour 3 has been supported to absorb the transverse forces during rolling. The end face 5 is thus rolled flat and no longer has a curvature 9.

FIG. 3 shows a second embodiment of the cross section 4 of the shaped bracket 1 according to the invention, in which the width in the first region B _t is constant, just as in the embodiment shown in FIG. 2. In the second region B ₂ , the width increases continuously from the boundary 6 toward the inner contour 3, the two cross-sectional flanks running in a straight line and being inclined by the angle α with respect to the long cross-sectional axis 8. The area B ₂ in this embodiment has no zone in which the width is constant.

4 shows a third embodiment of the cross section 4 of the shaped bracket 1 according to the invention, different geometric relationships being shown in the two halves of the drawing. The width of the cross-section 4 increases continuously in the first region B ^ from the outer contour 2 to the boundary 6, the cross-section flanks running in a straight line and being offset by the angle γ. are inclined over the transverse axis 8. In the second region B ₂ , the width also increases continuously, the cross-sectional flanks here being inclined in a straight line at an angle of inclination δ with respect to the long cross-sectional axis 8.

In the geometry shown in the left half of FIG. 4, the angle γ is smaller than the angle δ. Alternatively, the angle δ can also be chosen larger than the angle γ, as is the case in the right half of FIG. 4. Furthermore, it is conceivable to choose the angle δ as large as the angle γ, so that the two cross-sectional flanks diverge straight from the outer contour 2 to the inner contour 3 without a kink. In this case, the boundary 6 between the first region B 1 and the second region B ₂ can be shifted as desired along the long cross-sectional axis 8.

5 shows a fourth embodiment of the cross section 4 of the shaped bracket 1 according to the invention. Here, the width in the first region Bi increases continuously from the outer contour 2 to the boundary 6, the cross-sectional flanks being inclined by the angle γ with respect to the long cross-sectional axis 8 . Furthermore, the width is constant over the entire height of the second region B ₂ .

The cross sections 4 shown in FIGS. 2 to 5 each have rectilinear cross-sectional flanks. If necessary, however, the cross-sectional flanks can also be curved, ie not linear. Furthermore, the cross section 4 of the shaped bracket 1 according to the invention does not necessarily have to be symmetrical to the long cross-sectional axis 8, but can also have a shape asymmetrical to this axis.

The shaped bracket 1 according to the invention is preferably produced from a carbon steel with a carbon content between 0.4 and 1%. The tensile strength is preferably between 1,400 and 2,400 N / mm ² . With appropriate dimensions, the shaped bracket can also be made from suitable plastics such as polyamide (PA), polyacetal (POM), polycarbonate (PC) or polyester. The The surface of the shaped bracket 1 can be electroplated or refined by another metallic application, for example galvanized.

As shown in FIGS. 6, 7 and 8, the surface can in particular be surrounded by a sheathing 7, preferably made of plastic, which completely envelops the cross section 4 of the molding bracket 1. 6, the outer shape 11 of the casing 7 can be adapted to the contour of the cross section 4, so that the thickness D of the casing 7 is essentially constant along the circumference of the cross section 4. Depending on requirements, other outer shapes 11 for the sheath 7 can also be selected to influence the wearing comfort, such as an essentially rectangular outer shape 11 according to FIG. 7 or an essentially teardrop-shaped outer shape 11 according to FIG. 8, the wider area of which faces the inner contour 3. An elliptical outer shape 11 is also possible.

The cross-section 4 according to the invention according to FIG. 2 is compared below with the rectangular cross-section according to FIG. 9 known from the prior art. If the curvatures 9, 10 of the cross section 4 according to FIG. 2 and the curvatures of the rectangular cross section according to FIG. 9 are neglected, the arithmetic comparison values according to Table 1 result.

The resilience of the shaped bracket due to bending stresses which result from bending loads acting in the bracket plane x, z is determined by the respective section modulus W _y . The cup-shaped cross-section according to the invention is thus resilient in comparison to the known rectangular cross-section with a cross-sectional area of almost the same size in the ratio of 0.65: 0.4 = 1.625. This means that the goblet-shaped cross section according to the invention can be loaded by approximately 62% higher than the known rectangular cross section. In other words, the tendency to break in the goblet-shaped cross-section according to the invention under the same load is only approx. 62% of the tendency to break in the rectangular cross-section. TABLE 1

The moment of inertia l _y related to the y axis is a measure of the resistance of the shaped bracket to resist changes in shape due to bending loads in the bracket plane x, z. The higher the moment of inertia l _y , the higher the resistance to changes in shape in the bracket plane x, z or the higher the bending rigidity in the bracket plane x, z. Accordingly, the moment of inertia l _z related to the z-axis is a measure of the resistance of the shaped bracket to resist the resulting changes in shape resulting from bending loads perpendicular to the bracket plane x, z. The smaller the moment of inertia l _z , the lower the resistance of the shaped bracket to resist changes in shape perpendicular to the bracket plane x, z or the greater its flexibility perpendicular to the bracket plane x, z. Hence the relationship

k

C = l ₃

a measure for assessing the bending properties of the shaped brackets. Since, in addition to a reduced tendency to break, the highest possible bending stiffness in the bracket plane x, z and the greatest possible flexibility perpendicular to the bracket plane x, z should be ensured, the highest possible values of the ratio C should be aimed for. 2 results in a ratio of C _κ = 29.86 and for the known rectangular cross-section in accordance with FIG. 9 a ratio of C _R = 11.11. Furthermore, reference should be made here to the corresponding ratio in the bone-shaped cross section known from WO 95/19114. It is C = 15.1, the size of the bone-shaped cross-sectional area being comparable to that of the cup-shaped cross-section according to the invention or of the rectangular cross-section.

From the above comparison between the goblet-shaped cross-section according to the invention and the known rectangular cross-section or bone-shaped cross-section, it can be seen that the shaping bow according to the invention fulfills the requirements for the tendency to break, the bending stiffness in the bow plane x, z and the flexibility perpendicular to the bow plane x, z far better than the well-known shaped bracket. The cross section 4 of the molding bracket 1 according to the invention is neither disproportionately thin nor disproportionately high.

In addition, the thickened area B _{2 of} the cross section running along the inner contour of the shaped bracket 1 also favors the wearing comfort because it does not cut into the breastline of the wearer. Furthermore, the tendency to permanent fractures is significantly reduced in the presence of small scratches (reduced effective notch effect).

Claims

PATENT CLAIMS

1. A shaped hanger for items of clothing holding the female breast, which has a convex outer contour (2) and a concave inner contour (3), between which the cross section (4) of the hanger (1) with a first area (2) facing the outer contour (2) Bi) and one of the inner contour (3) facing second area (B2), characterized in that the perpendicular (y) to the plane (x, z) spanned by the bracket (1) measured width of the cross section (4) in the second area (B2) is larger than in the first area (B1).

2. shaped bracket according to claim 1, characterized in that the width (d) in the first region (B ^ is constant.

3. shaped bracket according to claim 1, characterized in that the width in the first region (B ^ in the direction of the inner contour (3) increases tapering (γ).

4. shaped bracket according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the width in the second region (B ₂ ) increases in the direction of the inner contour (3) tapering (α; δ).

5. shaped bracket according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the width in the second region (B ₂ ) in the direction of the inner contour (3) initially increases (ß) and then constant (a).

6. shaped bracket according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the width in the second region (B ₂ ) is constant.

7. Shaped bow according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the boundary (6) between the first region (Bi) and the second region (B ₂ ) in the half of the height (b) of the cross section (3) assigned to the inner contour (3) 4) lies.

8. shaped bracket according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least the inner contour (3) associated end face (5) of the cross section (4) is flat rolled.

9. shaped bracket according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a cross-section (4) completely surrounding casing (7).

10. shaped bracket according to claim 9, characterized in that the outer shape (11) of the casing (7) of the contour of the cross section (4) is adapted so that the thickness (D) of the casing (7) is substantially constant.

11. Shackle according to claim 9, characterized in that the outer shape (11) of the casing (7) is substantially rectangular.

12. Shackle according to claim 9, characterized in that the outer shape (11) of the casing (7) is substantially elliptical.

13. Shackle according to claim 9, characterized in that the outer shape (11) of the casing (7) is substantially teardrop-shaped.

14. Garment for holding the female breast, which has at least one cup, characterized in that a shaped bracket (1) according to one of the preceding claims is incorporated into the at least one cup.