WO1996016213A1 - Process for fabricating knitted textile surfaces, and textile surfaces obtained thereby - Google Patents

Process for fabricating knitted textile surfaces, and textile surfaces obtained thereby Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1996016213A1
WO1996016213A1 PCT/FR1995/001500 FR9501500W WO9616213A1 WO 1996016213 A1 WO1996016213 A1 WO 1996016213A1 FR 9501500 W FR9501500 W FR 9501500W WO 9616213 A1 WO9616213 A1 WO 9616213A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
knitted
shrinkage
textile surfaces
yarn
wire
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Application number
PCT/FR1995/001500
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French (fr)
Inventor
Gérard PEYROT
Original Assignee
Rhone-Poulenc Setila
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Rhone-Poulenc Setila filed Critical Rhone-Poulenc Setila
Publication of WO1996016213A1 publication Critical patent/WO1996016213A1/en

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • D04B1/20—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads crimped threads

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method for manufacturing knitted textile surfaces, and the textile surfaces obtained.
  • It relates more particularly to a process for manufacturing knitted textile surfaces comprising at least one retractable polyester yarn, and textile surfaces with densified reinforcement.
  • Knitted textile surfaces are often used as a background surface for articles such as velvet, loop pile, satin article.
  • articles such as velvet, loop pile, satin article.
  • dense knits are also sought to obtain articles with permeability to water, or to reduced gases.
  • One of the aims of the present invention is to provide a method making it possible to obtain a dense and regular knitted surface which makes it possible in particular to improve the resistance and appearance properties of articles such as velvet or satin, for example.
  • the subject of the invention is a method of manufacturing a knitted textile surface obtained by means of at least one polyester thread.
  • polyester yarn is a multifilament yarn called hereinafter high shrinkage yarn having a shrinkage in boiling water of between 20% and 70%, and a tenacity greater than 1 cN / Tex.
  • the densification of the surface is obtained by heat treatment of the latter at a temperature between 160 ° C and 200 ° C, this treatment being carried out in the absence of water vapor.
  • the knitted surface undergoes a homogeneous retraction, that is to say that the percentage of retraction over the entire width of the surface is substantially equal.
  • the variation in the percentage of retraction according to the width of the surface is less than 10%, advantageously of the order of 5%.
  • the high-shrinkage polyester yarn is an interwoven multifilament yarn, that is to say it has a certain cohesion generated by the intermingling of the filaments with one another.
  • the high shrinkage wire has a toughness between 15 and 25 cN / Tex, and preferably a shrinkage in boiling water between 20 and 60%.
  • the high shrinkage yarn may be obtained by spinning in a molten medium a polyethylene terephthalate according to the conventional processes for obtaining polyester yarns. The spinning speeds and drawing rates are determined in a manner known to a person skilled in the art in order to obtain the desired shrinkage properties of the yarn, with speeds greater than 2500 m / min, advantageously greater than 2800 m / min.
  • the entanglement of the filaments is generally carried out during the spinning process by passing the yarn through a known entanglement device such as an air entanglement nozzle.
  • polyethylene terephthalate polymer polymers comprising at least 80% by mole of polyethylene terephthalate units.
  • Other units derived from diacid monomers or from their esters such as, for example, isophthalic acid, adipic acid, or from dihydric monomers may be present.
  • the polymers can also contain thermal stabilizers, lights, pigments, additives improving certain properties such as hydrophilicity, electrostaticity of the threads.
  • pigments or fillers commonly used mention may be made of titanium oxide which makes it possible to produce matt or semi-matt wires.
  • the high shrinkage yarns of the invention can also include sizes conventionally used for the manufacture of yarns intended to be used for the production of knitted fabric. According to the invention, the high shrinkage yarn is used for the manufacture of knitted surfaces, as the sole feeding yarn, or in combination with other feeding yarns of different characteristics or nature.
  • the high shrinkage yarn is used for making the bottom of the textile surface
  • the yarn forming the pile or the loops of the surface also called effect yarn
  • a wire with high shrinkage as a loop-forming wire (effect wire), preferably alternately with a wire without shrinkage.
  • effect wire a wire with high shrinkage
  • the surface obtained will have a particular appearance because the dimensions of the loops or of the bristles will not be uniform.
  • mixed threads that is to say a thread composed of filaments of different properties or different natures.
  • These mixed threads comprising at least high shrinkage filaments which preferably constitute the core of the thread, the other filaments such as low shrinkage polyester filaments or filaments made of synthetic or natural material being arranged around the strong shrinkage filaments.
  • This type of composite yarn structure is generally known as the heart / skin.
  • the threads allowing the implementation of the invention generally have titers of less than 200 dtex, for example between 30 and 200 dtex.
  • the retraction of the textile surface is carried out by heat treatment without water vapor.
  • the lateral edges of the textile surface are held in gripping jaws whose spacing is fixed to the desired width for the finished textile surface.
  • This gripping of the lateral edges makes it possible to limit the retraction of the textile surface to the desired width.
  • the longitudinal retraction of the textile surface is controlled by the difference in the speed of supply of the surface in the heat treatment step and the speed of exit from the textile surface.
  • the higher the feed speed relative to the exit speed the greater the rate of retraction.
  • this heat treatment is carried out in a ream system.
  • the knitted textile surfaces according to the invention have a high mesh density, and more particularly a mesh density of the finished knitted fabric significantly greater than that of unbleached knitted fabric.
  • the weight per m 2 of the finished knit is at least 1.2 times that of the unbleached knit. This weight per m 2 is a parameter representative of the mesh density.
  • the knits obtained according to the method of the invention have a compact structure which makes it possible to improve their air or water impermeability, in particular in the case of flat knitting, and their rigidity. These improved properties are particularly useful when knitting is used as a reinforcing element in compact structures.
  • This compact and tightened structure of the meshes is also advantageous in the case of textile surfaces comprising a support surface on which are fixed threads forming a flexible surface such as velvet, looped surface.
  • the wire or wires forming the flexible surface must be integral with the support surface. This joining is obtained in particular by trapping the wire in the meshes of the support surface.
  • the surfaces of the invention therefore make it possible to improve the solidity of such textile surfaces.
  • the invention applies to all knitting methods, such as weft knitting, warp knitting, and for all types of weaves, flat knitwear or loop.
  • Example 1 nonwoven knitting
  • the nonwoven knits are produced on a 2 bar J 28 E 84 knitting loom, with a polyester thread of 50 F15 semi-matt title having a shrinkage in boiling water of 58% and a tenacity of 21 cN / Tex.
  • the fabrics obtained respectively have a mesh density of 18 mesh cm and 16 mesh / cm, with a width shrinkage of 48% and 53%.
  • the knitted shrinkage was obtained by treatment on a ream at 180 ° C and without steam, with a long overfeed of 20 to 30%.
  • the difference in mesh density between the selvedges and the center of the fabrics is less than 5%. This small percentage shows the homogeneity of the withdrawal over the entire width of the fabric.
  • a control surface (C) was produced by replacing the high-shrink polyester yarn with a flat, semi-matt 50 F36 yarn having a shrinkage in boiling water of the order of 10% and a tenacity of 40 cN / Tex
  • the velvet thus obtained has a better appearance, a tighter pile, better hold and an improved hand feel.
  • This abrasion is measured by determining the Frank abrasion according to ISO standard 53863. This measurement is carried out with a Karl FRANK 11401 abrasimeter (trade name) according to the circular abrasion process for fabrics with 100 cm 2 fabric test pieces of area.
  • Satin velvet fabrics were produced with the same high shrinkage yarns and the same surface yarn as in Example 2.
  • the velvets obtained have a denser background, a very dense coat, a pronounced suede appearance. They also have a pleasant surface feel and better hold.

Abstract

The invention relates to a process for fabricating knitted textile surfaces, as well as the textile surfaces obtained. It relates more particularly to a process for fabricating knitted textile surfaces comprising at least one retractable polyester yarn, and textile surfaces with densified reinforcement such as velvets or satins. Said surface is obtained by knitting with at leat one high shrinkage multifilament polyester yarn having a boiling water shrinkage percentage comprised between 20 % and 70 %, a toughness higher than 1 cN/Tex, and by heat-treatment of the knitted surface at a temperature comprised between 160 °C and 200 °C in the absence of steam.

Description

PROCEDE DE FABRICATION DE SURFACES TEXTILES TRICOTEES. ET SURFACES TEXTILES OBTENUES PROCESS FOR PRODUCING KNITTED TEXTILE SURFACES. AND TEXTILE SURFACES OBTAINED
La présente invention concerne un procédé de fabrication de surfaces textiles tricotées, et les surfaces textiles obtenues.The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing knitted textile surfaces, and the textile surfaces obtained.
Elle concerne plus particulièrement un procédé de fabrication de surfaces textiles tricotées comprenant au moins un fil polyester rétractable, et des surfaces textiles à armature densifiée.It relates more particularly to a process for manufacturing knitted textile surfaces comprising at least one retractable polyester yarn, and textile surfaces with densified reinforcement.
Les surfaces textiles tricotées sont souvent utilisées comme surface de fond pour les articles tels que velours, velours bouclette, article satin. Pour améliorer la résistance et la solidité de ces articles et notamment l'ancrage des poils ou bouclettes dans le fond, il est intéressant de pouvoir réaliser un fond de structure dense, allant au-delà de la densification obtenue par les procédés industriels de tricotage. Par ailleurs, des tricots denses sont également recherchés pour obtenir des articles à perméabilité à l'eau, ou aux gaz réduite.Knitted textile surfaces are often used as a background surface for articles such as velvet, loop pile, satin article. To improve the resistance and solidity of these articles and in particular the anchoring of the bristles or loops in the bottom, it is advantageous to be able to produce a bottom of dense structure, going beyond the densification obtained by industrial knitting processes. In addition, dense knits are also sought to obtain articles with permeability to water, or to reduced gases.
Un des buts de la présente invention est de proposer un procédé permettant d'obtenir une surface tricotée dense et régulière qui permet notamment d'améliorer les propriétés de résistance et d'aspect des articles tels que velours ou satin, par exemple.One of the aims of the present invention is to provide a method making it possible to obtain a dense and regular knitted surface which makes it possible in particular to improve the resistance and appearance properties of articles such as velvet or satin, for example.
A cet effet, l'invention a pour objet un procédé de fabrication d'une surface textile tricotée obtenue au moyen d'au moins un fil polyester.To this end, the subject of the invention is a method of manufacturing a knitted textile surface obtained by means of at least one polyester thread.
Ce procédé se caractérise en ce que le fil polyester est un fil multifilamentaire appelé ci-après fil à fort retrait présentant un retrait à l'eau bouillante compris entre 20 % et 70 %, et une ténacité supérieure à 1 cN/Tex.This process is characterized in that the polyester yarn is a multifilament yarn called hereinafter high shrinkage yarn having a shrinkage in boiling water of between 20% and 70%, and a tenacity greater than 1 cN / Tex.
La densification de la surface est obtenue par traitement thermique de celle-ci à une température comprise entre 160°C et 200°C, ce traitement étant réalisé en l'absence de vapeur d'eau.The densification of the surface is obtained by heat treatment of the latter at a temperature between 160 ° C and 200 ° C, this treatment being carried out in the absence of water vapor.
La surface tricotée subit une rétraction homogène, c'est-à-dire que le pourcentage de rétraction sur toute la largeur de la surface est sensiblement égal. Ainsi, la variation du pourcentage de rétraction selon la largeur de la surface est inférieure à 10 %, avantageusement de l'ordre de 5 %.The knitted surface undergoes a homogeneous retraction, that is to say that the percentage of retraction over the entire width of the surface is substantially equal. Thus, the variation in the percentage of retraction according to the width of the surface is less than 10%, advantageously of the order of 5%.
Cette homogénéité de rétraction est également observée selon le sens longitudinal de la surface.This homogeneity of retraction is also observed along the longitudinal direction of the surface.
Selon une autre caractéristique de l'invention, le fil polyester à fort retrait est un fil multifilamentaire entremêlé, c'est-à-dire qu'il présente une certaine cohésion générée par l'entremêlement des filaments entre eux.According to another characteristic of the invention, the high-shrinkage polyester yarn is an interwoven multifilament yarn, that is to say it has a certain cohesion generated by the intermingling of the filaments with one another.
Selon les caractéristiques préférées de l'invention, le fil à fort retrait présente une ténacité comprise entre 15 et 25 cN/Tex, et de préférence un retrait dans l'eau bouillante compris entre 20 et 60 %. Le fil à fort retrait peut-être obtenu par filage en milieu fondu d'un polytéréphtalate d'éthylène glycol selon les procédés classiques d'obtention des fils polyester. Les vitesses de filage et taux d'étirage sont déterminés de manière connue par un homme du métier pour obtenir les propriétés de retrait désiré du fil, avec des vitesses supérieures à 2500m/min, avantageusement supérieure à 2800 m/min. L'entremêlement des filaments est généralement réalisé pendant le procédé de filage par passage du fil dans un dispositif connu d'entremêlement tel qu'une buse d'entremêlement à air. Par polymère polytéréphtalate d'éthylène glycol, on désigne les polymères comprenant au moins 80 % en mole de motifs polytéréphtalate d'éthylène glycol. D'autres motifs dérivés de monomères diacides ou de leurs esters tels que par exemple l'acide isophtalique, l'acide adipique, ou de monomères dihydriques peuvent être présents.According to the preferred characteristics of the invention, the high shrinkage wire has a toughness between 15 and 25 cN / Tex, and preferably a shrinkage in boiling water between 20 and 60%. The high shrinkage yarn may be obtained by spinning in a molten medium a polyethylene terephthalate according to the conventional processes for obtaining polyester yarns. The spinning speeds and drawing rates are determined in a manner known to a person skilled in the art in order to obtain the desired shrinkage properties of the yarn, with speeds greater than 2500 m / min, advantageously greater than 2800 m / min. The entanglement of the filaments is generally carried out during the spinning process by passing the yarn through a known entanglement device such as an air entanglement nozzle. By polyethylene terephthalate polymer is meant polymers comprising at least 80% by mole of polyethylene terephthalate units. Other units derived from diacid monomers or from their esters such as, for example, isophthalic acid, adipic acid, or from dihydric monomers may be present.
Les polymères peuvent également contenir des stabilisants thermiques, lumières, des pigments, des additifs améliorant certaines propriétés telles que l'hydrophilie, l'electrostaticite des fils. Comme pigments ou charges couramment utilisés on peut citer l'oxyde de titane qui permet de réaliser des fils mats ou mi-mats.The polymers can also contain thermal stabilizers, lights, pigments, additives improving certain properties such as hydrophilicity, electrostaticity of the threads. As pigments or fillers commonly used, mention may be made of titanium oxide which makes it possible to produce matt or semi-matt wires.
Les fils à fort retrait de l'invention peuvent également comprendre des ensimages conventionnellement utilisés pour la fabrication de fils destinés à être utilisés pour la réalisation de tricot. Selon l'invention, le fil à fort retrait est utilisé pour la fabrication de surfaces tricotées, comme unique fil d'alimentation, ou en association avec d'autres fils d'alimentation de caractéristiques ou de nature différentes.The high shrinkage yarns of the invention can also include sizes conventionally used for the manufacture of yarns intended to be used for the production of knitted fabric. According to the invention, the high shrinkage yarn is used for the manufacture of knitted surfaces, as the sole feeding yarn, or in combination with other feeding yarns of different characteristics or nature.
Ainsi, dans des procédés de tricotage de surface velours ou à bouclette, le fil à fort retrait est utilisé pour la réalisation du fond de la surface textile, le fil formant les poils ou les boucles de la surface, appelé également fil d'effet, pouvant être avantageusement un fil à faible retrait ou un fil habituellement employé pour la réalisation de ces surfaces.Thus, in velvet or loop pile surface knitting processes, the high shrinkage yarn is used for making the bottom of the textile surface, the yarn forming the pile or the loops of the surface, also called effect yarn, can advantageously be a wire with low shrinkage or a wire usually used for the production of these surfaces.
Bien entendu, il est également possible d'utiliser un fil à fort retrait comme fil de formation des bouclettes (fil d'effet), de préférence en alternance avec un fil sans retrait. Ainsi, la surface obtenue présentera un aspect particulier car les dimensions des bouclettes ou des poils se seront pas uniformes.Of course, it is also possible to use a wire with high shrinkage as a loop-forming wire (effect wire), preferably alternately with a wire without shrinkage. Thus, the surface obtained will have a particular appearance because the dimensions of the loops or of the bristles will not be uniform.
Il est également possible d'utiliser des fils mixtes c'est-à-dire un fil composé de filaments de différentes propriétés ou différentes natures. Ces fils mixtes comprenant au moins des filaments à fort retrait qui constituent préférentiellement le coeur du fil, les autres filaments tels que des filaments polyesters à faible retrait ou filaments en matière synthétique ou naturelle étant disposés autour des filaments à fort retrait. Ce type de structure de fils composites est généralement connu sous le nom de coeur/peau. Les fils permettant la mise en oeuvre de l'invention ont généralement des titres inférieurs à 200 dtex par exemple compris entre 30 et 200 dtex.It is also possible to use mixed threads, that is to say a thread composed of filaments of different properties or different natures. These mixed threads comprising at least high shrinkage filaments which preferably constitute the core of the thread, the other filaments such as low shrinkage polyester filaments or filaments made of synthetic or natural material being arranged around the strong shrinkage filaments. This type of composite yarn structure is generally known as the heart / skin. The threads allowing the implementation of the invention generally have titers of less than 200 dtex, for example between 30 and 200 dtex.
Selon une autre caractéristique de l'invention, la rétraction de la surface textile est réalisée par traitement thermique sans vapeur d'eau. Avantageusement, les bords latéraux de la surface textile sont maintenus dans des mâchoires de préhension dont l'écartement est fixé à la largeur désirée pour la surface textile finie. Ainsi, cette préhension des bords latéraux permet de limiter la rétraction de la surface textile à la largeur désirée. La rétraction dans le sens longitudinal de la surface textile est contrôlée par la différence de vitesse d'alimentation de la surface dans l'étape de traitement thermique et la vitesse de sortie de la surface textile. Ainsi, plus la vitesse d'alimentation est élevée par rapport à la vitesse de sortie, plus le taux de rétraction sera grand.According to another characteristic of the invention, the retraction of the textile surface is carried out by heat treatment without water vapor. Advantageously, the lateral edges of the textile surface are held in gripping jaws whose spacing is fixed to the desired width for the finished textile surface. Thus, this gripping of the lateral edges makes it possible to limit the retraction of the textile surface to the desired width. The longitudinal retraction of the textile surface is controlled by the difference in the speed of supply of the surface in the heat treatment step and the speed of exit from the textile surface. Thus, the higher the feed speed relative to the exit speed, the greater the rate of retraction.
Dans un mode de réalisation préféré, ce traitement thermique est réalisé dans un système à rame.In a preferred embodiment, this heat treatment is carried out in a ream system.
Les surfaces textiles tricotées conformes à l'invention présentent une densité de mailles élevée, et plus particulièrement une densité de mailles du tricot fini nettement supérieure à celle du tricot écru. Ainsi, selon l'invention le poids au m2 du tricot fini est au moins 1 ,2 fois supérieur à celui du tricot écru. Ce poids au m2 est un paramètre représentatif de la densité de mailles.The knitted textile surfaces according to the invention have a high mesh density, and more particularly a mesh density of the finished knitted fabric significantly greater than that of unbleached knitted fabric. Thus, according to the invention the weight per m 2 of the finished knit is at least 1.2 times that of the unbleached knit. This weight per m 2 is a parameter representative of the mesh density.
Ainsi, les tricots obtenus selon le procédé de l'invention, ont une structure compacte qui permet d'améliorer leur imperméabilité à l'air ou l'eau, notamment dans le cas de tricot plat, et leur rigidité. Ces propriétés améliorées sont notamment utiles quand le tricot est utilisé comme élément de renfort dans des structures compactes.Thus, the knits obtained according to the method of the invention have a compact structure which makes it possible to improve their air or water impermeability, in particular in the case of flat knitting, and their rigidity. These improved properties are particularly useful when knitting is used as a reinforcing element in compact structures.
Cette structure compacte et resserrée des mailles est également avantageuse dans le cas de surfaces textiles comprenant une surface support sur laquelle sont fixés des fils formant une surface souple telles que les velours, les surface à bouclettes.This compact and tightened structure of the meshes is also advantageous in the case of textile surfaces comprising a support surface on which are fixed threads forming a flexible surface such as velvet, looped surface.
Dans ce cas le ou les fils formant la surface souple (fils d'effet) doivent être solidaires de la surface support. Cette solidarisation est notamment obtenue par emprisonnement du fil dans les mailles de la surface support.In this case the wire or wires forming the flexible surface (effect wires) must be integral with the support surface. This joining is obtained in particular by trapping the wire in the meshes of the support surface.
Les surfaces de l'invention permettent donc d'améliorer la solidité de telles surfaces textiles.The surfaces of the invention therefore make it possible to improve the solidity of such textile surfaces.
L'invention s'applique à toutes les méthodes de tricotage, telles que le tricot trame, le tricot chaîne, et pour tous les types d'armures, les tricots plats ou bouclettes.The invention applies to all knitting methods, such as weft knitting, warp knitting, and for all types of weaves, flat knitwear or loop.
D'autres détails caractéristiques et avantages de l'invention apparaîtront plus clairement au vu des exemples donnés ci-dessous uniquement à titre indicatif. Exemple 1 : tricot indémaillableOther characteristic details and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly in the light of the examples given below only for information. Example 1: nonwoven knitting
Les tricots indémaillables sont fabriqués sur un métier tricot chaîne J 28 E 84 à 2 barres, avec un fil polyester de titre 50 F15 mi-mat présentant un retrait à l'eau bouillante de 58 % et une ténacité de 21 cN/Tex.The nonwoven knits are produced on a 2 bar J 28 E 84 knitting loom, with a polyester thread of 50 F15 semi-matt title having a shrinkage in boiling water of 58% and a tenacity of 21 cN / Tex.
Deux tricots ont été réalisés avec des types d'armures différents : charmeuse bloquée et maille bloquée.Two knits were made with different types of armor: blocked charmeuse and blocked mesh.
Les tissus obtenus présentent respectivement une densité de maille de 18 mailles cm et 16 mailles/cm, avec un retrait en largeur de 48 % et 53 %.The fabrics obtained respectively have a mesh density of 18 mesh cm and 16 mesh / cm, with a width shrinkage of 48% and 53%.
La rétraction du tricot a été obtenue par traitement sur rame à 180°C et sans vapeur, avec une suralimentation en long de 20 à 30 %.The knitted shrinkage was obtained by treatment on a ream at 180 ° C and without steam, with a long overfeed of 20 to 30%.
La différence de densité de maille entre les lisières et le centre des tissus est inférieure à 5 %. Ce faible pourcentage montre l'homogénéité du retrait sur toute la largeur du tissu.The difference in mesh density between the selvedges and the center of the fabrics is less than 5%. This small percentage shows the homogeneity of the withdrawal over the entire width of the fabric.
Exemple 2 : tricot velours bouclettesExample 2: loop pile knit
Ces surfaces sont réalisées sur un métier LIBA POL J 28 E 84 à 2 barres, avec pour la réalisation de la surface de fond un fil polyester 50 F15 présentant un retrait à l'eau bouillante de 58 % et une ténacité de 21 cNTex sur une (surface A) ou deux barres (surface B), et comme fil de surface un fil polyester rond plat 100F88 brillant commercialisé par la société RHONE-POULENC FIBRES sous la marque SETILA.These surfaces are produced on a LIBA POL J 28 E 84 loom with 2 bars, with the polyester surface 50 F15 having a shrinkage in boiling water of 58% and a tenacity of 21 cNTex on a surface for the production of the bottom surface. (surface A) or two bars (surface B), and as surface thread a round flat polyester thread 100F88 gloss marketed by the company RHONE-POULENC FIBERS under the brand SETILA.
Une surface témoin (C) a été réalisée en remplaçant le fil polyester à fort retrait par un fil rond plat mi-mat 50 F36 présentant un retrait à l'eau bouillante de l'ordre de 10 % et une ténacité de 40 cN/TexA control surface (C) was produced by replacing the high-shrink polyester yarn with a flat, semi-matt 50 F36 yarn having a shrinkage in boiling water of the order of 10% and a tenacity of 40 cN / Tex
Les résultats sont donnés dans le tableau ci-dessous.The results are given in the table below.
C A BC A B
Fil de fond Fil de fond Fil de fondBottom Wire Bottom Wire Bottom Wire
Surface 50 F 36 1 barre 50 F 15 1 barre 50 F 15 2 barresSurface 50 F 36 1 bar 50 F 15 1 bar 50 F 15 2 bars
Fil de surface Fil de surface Fil de surfaceSurface wire Surface wire Surface wire
100 F 88 1 barre 100 F 88 1 barre 100 F 88 1 barre100 F 88 1 bar 100 F 88 1 bar 100 F 88 1 bar
Largeur écru (mm) 200 200 205Ecru width (mm) 200 200 205
Largeur fini (mm) 170 159 160Finished width (mm) 170 159 160
% retrait 15 20 22% withdrawal 15 20 22
Poids/m2 écru 340 330 330W / m 2 ecru 340 330 330
Poids/m2 fini (1) 330 400 420Weight / m 2 finished (1) 330 400 420
Rapport fini/écru 0,97 1.21 1.27Finished / ecru report 0.97 1.21 1.27
(1 ) valeur mesurée après rasage de la surface (le rasage entraîne une diminution du potc-s/m2 de Tordre de 10 %) Les chiffres précédents montrent l'obtention d'un tricot densifié par rapport au témoin.(1) value measured after shaving the surface (shaving causes a decrease in potc-s / m 2 of the order of 10%) The previous figures show obtaining a denser knit compared to the control.
Le velours ainsi obtenu présente un meilleur aspect, un poil plus serré, une meilleure tenue et un toucher à la main amélioré.The velvet thus obtained has a better appearance, a tighter pile, better hold and an improved hand feel.
En outre la résistance à l'abrasion du velours est nettement augmentée.In addition, the abrasion resistance of velvet is significantly increased.
Cette abrasion est mesurée par détermination de l'abrasion Frank selon la norme ISO 53863. Cette mesure est réalisée avec un abrasimètre Karl FRANK 11401 (dénomination commerciale) selon le procédé d'abrasion circulaire de tissus avec des éprouvettes de tissus de 100 cm2 de surface.This abrasion is measured by determining the Frank abrasion according to ISO standard 53863. This measurement is carried out with a Karl FRANK 11401 abrasimeter (trade name) according to the circular abrasion process for fabrics with 100 cm 2 fabric test pieces of area.
Les résultats sont :The results are:
- surface A : 0,0009 g de perte de poids- area A: 0.0009 g of weight loss
- surface B : 0,0104 g- surface B: 0.0104 g
- surface C (témoin) : 0,0253 g- surface C (control): 0.0253 g
Exemple 3 : velours satinExample 3: satin velvet
On a réalisé avec les mêmes fils à fort retrait et le même fil de surface que pour l'exemple 2, des tissus velours satin.Satin velvet fabrics were produced with the same high shrinkage yarns and the same surface yarn as in Example 2.
Les résultats sont donnés dans le tableau ci-dessous.The results are given in the table below.
Surface D Surface ESurface D Surface E
Surface Fil de fond 50F 15 1 barre Fil de fond 50F 15 2 barresSurface Bottom wire 50F 15 1 bar Bottom wire 50F 15 2 bars
Fil de surface 100F88 1 barre Fil de surface 100F88 1 barreSurface wire 100F88 1 bar Surface wire 100F88 1 bar
Largeur écru (mm) 207 210Ecru width (mm) 207 210
Largeur fini (mm) 112 120Finished width (mm) 112 120
% retrait 54 43% withdrawal 54 43
Poids/m2 écru 170 190W / m 2 ecru 170 190
Poids/m2 fini 290 370Weight / m 2 finished 290 370
Rapport fini/écru 1,70 1,95Report finished / ecru 1.70 1.95
Les velours obtenus présentent un fond plus dense, un poil très fourni, un aspect suédé prononcé. Ils présentent également un toucher de surface agréable et une meilleure tenue. The velvets obtained have a denser background, a very dense coat, a pronounced suede appearance. They also have a pleasant surface feel and better hold.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1 - Procédé de fabrication d'une surface textile tricotée, caractérisé en ce qu'elle est obtenue à partir d'au moins un fil multifilamentaire en polyester à fort retrait présentant un pourcentage de retrait à l'eau bouillante compris entre 20 % et 70 %, une ténacité supérieure à 1 cN/Tex, et par traitement thermique de la surface tricotée à une température comprise entre 160°C et 200°C en l'absence de vapeur d'eau.1 - Method for manufacturing a knitted textile surface, characterized in that it is obtained from at least one multifilament polyester yarn with high shrinkage having a percentage of shrinkage with boiling water of between 20% and 70 %, a toughness greater than 1 cN / Tex, and by heat treatment of the knitted surface at a temperature between 160 ° C and 200 ° C in the absence of water vapor.
2 - Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que le fil multifilamentaire est entremêlé.2 - Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the multifilament yarn is intertwined.
3 - Procédé selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce que le fil multifilamentaire a une ténacité comprise entre 15 et 25 cN/Tex.3 - Method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the multifilament yarn has a toughness between 15 and 25 cN / Tex.
4 - Procédé selon l'une des revendications 1, 2 ou 3, caractérisé en ce que le fil multifilamentaire a un retrait dans l'eau bouillante compris entre 20 et 60 %.4 - Method according to one of claims 1, 2 or 3, characterized in that the multifilament yarn has a shrinkage in boiling water of between 20 and 60%.
5 - Procédé selon l'une des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisé en ce que le fil a un titre compris entre 30 et 200 dtex.5 - Method according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the wire has a titer between 30 and 200 dtex.
6 - Procédé selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que le traitement thermique est réalisé sur une rame.6 - Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the heat treatment is carried out on an oar.
7 - Procédé selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que le fil en polyester à fort retrait est tricoté avec des fils à retrait différent, ou des fils de nature différente.7 - Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester yarn with high shrinkage is knitted with son with different shrinkage, or son of different nature.
8 - Procédé selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que le fil multifilamentaire comprend des filaments à fort retrait et des filaments de retrait différent ou de nature différente.8 - Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the multifilament yarn comprises filaments with high shrinkage and filaments of different shrinkage or of different nature.
9 - Surface textile tricotée, caractérisée en ce qu'elle est obtenue selon le procédé décrit dans l'une des revendications 1 à 8.9 - Knitted textile surface, characterized in that it is obtained according to the method described in one of claims 1 to 8.
10 - Surface selon la revendication 9, caractérisée en ce que la variation de densité des mailles sur la largeur de la surface est inférieure à 10 %. 11 - Surface selon l'une des revendication 9 ou 10, caractérisée en ce que le rapport entre le poids au m2 du tricot fini et celui du tricot écru est supérieur à 1 ,2.10 - Surface according to claim 9, characterized in that the variation in mesh density over the width of the surface is less than 10%. 11 - Surface according to one of claims 9 or 10, characterized in that the ratio between the weight per m 2 of the finished knitted fabric and that of the unbleached knitted fabric is greater than 1, 2.
12 - Surface velours ou satin, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un fond tricot conforme aux revendications 9 à 11. 12 - Velvet or satin surface, characterized in that it comprises a knitted bottom according to claims 9 to 11.
PCT/FR1995/001500 1994-11-24 1995-11-15 Process for fabricating knitted textile surfaces, and textile surfaces obtained thereby WO1996016213A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR94/14318 1994-11-24
FR9414318A FR2727438B1 (en) 1994-11-24 1994-11-24 METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING KNITTED TEXTILE SURFACES, AND TEXTILE SURFACES OBTAINED

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO1996016213A1 true WO1996016213A1 (en) 1996-05-30

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ID=9469279

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/FR1995/001500 WO1996016213A1 (en) 1994-11-24 1995-11-15 Process for fabricating knitted textile surfaces, and textile surfaces obtained thereby

Country Status (2)

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FR (1) FR2727438B1 (en)
WO (1) WO1996016213A1 (en)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2001044550A1 (en) * 1999-12-16 2001-06-21 Kolon Industries, Inc. A warp knit having an excellent touch, and a process of preparing the same

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2094620A5 (en) * 1970-06-26 1972-02-04 Robert Leonce Knitted web-includes high bulk yarn which is contracted after knittin
GB2129461A (en) * 1982-10-29 1984-05-16 Pamukotex Bulked cloth manufacturing method
US4604315A (en) * 1983-12-20 1986-08-05 Chicopee High bulk, biaxial elastic, heat shrunk fabric
EP0336507A1 (en) * 1988-04-06 1989-10-11 Rhone-Poulenc Viscosuisse Sa Process to compress flat textiles, flat textiles made with this process and their application

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2094620A5 (en) * 1970-06-26 1972-02-04 Robert Leonce Knitted web-includes high bulk yarn which is contracted after knittin
GB2129461A (en) * 1982-10-29 1984-05-16 Pamukotex Bulked cloth manufacturing method
US4604315A (en) * 1983-12-20 1986-08-05 Chicopee High bulk, biaxial elastic, heat shrunk fabric
EP0336507A1 (en) * 1988-04-06 1989-10-11 Rhone-Poulenc Viscosuisse Sa Process to compress flat textiles, flat textiles made with this process and their application

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR2727438A1 (en) 1996-05-31
FR2727438B1 (en) 1997-01-03

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