Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
  • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
  • D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • D06M15/55—Epoxy resins
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
  • D06M11/07—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof
  • D06M11/09—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof with free halogens or interhalogen compounds
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
  • D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
  • D06M11/50—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with hydrogen peroxide or peroxides of metals; with persulfuric, permanganic, pernitric, percarbonic acids or their salts
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
  • D06M11/51—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof
  • D06M11/54—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof with sulfur dioxide; with sulfurous acid or its salts
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
  • D06M11/73—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with carbon or compounds thereof
  • D06M11/76—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with carbon or compounds thereof with carbon oxides or carbonates
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
  • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
  • D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • D06M15/59—Polyamides; Polyimides
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M23/00—Treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, characterised by the process

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a process for producing nonshrink woollen fabrics for clothing, in particular, even formal attire (jackets, men's and/or women's and/or children's suits, trousers, overcoats, etc.), capable of withstanding lifelong washing in soap and water and wool-cycle machine washing, without matting or shrinking.
• formal attire jackets, men's and/or women's and/or children's suits, trousers, overcoats, etc.
• BACKGROUND ART Wool fibers on account of their surface structure (scaly structure of the keratin cuticle) and chemical nature (amino acid chains connected by peptide bonds and cystine and salt bridges) present a strong tendency to mat when washed.
• chlorination In the case of woollen knitting yarns, this tendency has been drastically reduced by chemical processing known as "chlorination” which partly attacks the cystine bridges and partly modifies the surface structure of the keratin scales of the fiber cuticle to reduce the difference in the friction of the fibers from the root to the tip of the nap and vice versa.
• chlorination is normally accompanied by resin processing for partly coating the wool fibers with resin, so that, by virtue also of the favourable manner in which the processed yarn is worked, knitted garments may be safely washed in water without producing any noticeable shrinkage. Nevertheless, the tendency of wool fibers to mat still remains, thus resulting, after repeated washing, in ageing and a loss of volume and consistency of the garment.
• formal attire such as jackets, men's and/or women's and/or children's suits, trousers, etc.
• a process for producing nonshrink woollen fabrics for clothing comprising stages consisting in spinning wool fibers into a combed or carded yarn, and weaving the yarn so formed into fabric; characterized in that a strand of combed wool fibers is chemically treated to partly oxidize the cystine bridges between the wool fibers and at least partly coat the outer surface of the wool fibers with a synthetic thermoplastic resin; and the treated wool fiber is then spun and woven, and the resulting fabric chemically treated with a softening solution operating in acid pH conditions.
• the chemical oxidizing treatment consists in chemical chlorination treatment of the type employed for knitting wool fibers.
• the combed wool fiber is treated continuously with chlorine gas in the presence of a highly absorbent nonionogenous surface-active agent and operating with a highly acid pH; and the fiber strand is then treated on a smoothing machine by immersing it successively in: a first bath consisting of an aqueous solution of potassium permanganate at room temperature and maintained at neutral pH; a second bath consisting of an aqueous solution of alkali metal sulfites at room temperature and maintained at a pH of close to 5.5; a third bath consisting of an aqueous solution of a carbonate at room temperature and maintained at an alkaline pH of 9.8 to 10; a wash bath consisting of water at room temperature; and a processing bath consisting of an aqueous dispersion of a synthetic polyamide resin maintained at 30°C and a pH of close to
• a polyamide-epichlorohydrin resin is preferably used.
• the fabric formed as described above is treated with an aqueous solution of a softening substance consisting of a mixture of silicone and condensed fatty acids dispersed in water and maintained at a slightly acid pH of 5.5 to 6.5.
• the COO- functional groups of the fatty acids form bonds with the amino groups of the amino acid chains constituting the wool fibers, to form stable ion bonds similar to the "salt" bridges between the side chains of the wool fibers (COO-) ⁇ NH_ + .
• Which bond permits the treated fabric to retain the softener between the wool fibers, so as to achieve a startling improvement in the look and feel of the fabric, which are identical to those of a woollen fabric of the same characteristics but with no oxidation or resin coating of the wool fibers.
• the wool fibers • are also preferably twisted, applying 500 to 1500 TS, TZ twists.
• the resulting fabric treated and subjected to said known wool finishing cycle (wet scouring, flocking, calendering, KD, possible steaming, and decating) is perfectly comparable in quality and appearance to known fabrics of the same type, but, unlike these, is absolutely nonshrinkable and does not mat even after lifelong washing in soap and water.
• the fabric produced according to the present invention is preferably gas flame singed and rinsed.
• the singeing process (known) is normally carried out on the unfinished fabric, prior to any of the finishing stages, in the process according to the present invention, it is performed on the finished fabric, the wool fibers of which have been subjected to said partial oxidation of the cystine bridges and resin coated.
• the fabric produced according to the present invention has been found to be perfectly stabilized, even without subjecting it to conventional steam stabilizing processes, e.g. "KD", thus enabling considerable saving as regards the production cycle which is shorter, more straightforward and cheaper in terms of energy consumption.
• KD steam stabilizing processes
• the major advantage of the present invention is that of providing a fabric which is totally nonshrinkable with practically no tendency to mat, thus enabling it to be used for clothing of any type - jackets, overcoats, men's and/or women's and/or children's suits - which, as opposed to high-cost dry cleaning, may be washed in the home in soap and water throughout the working life of the garment. Even in the case of "shop” cleaning, such garments may be washed in water, which is not only cheaper but also provides for substantial ecological advantages by eliminating the use of solvents such as perchloroethylene.
• EXAMPLE 1 A strand of combed wool fibers is treated continuously in a dyeing machine composed of a "foulard” and a five-tank smoothing machine. Firstly, the damp fibers are treated in the "foulard” with chlorine gas in the presence of FULLWET.S (registered trade mark) nonionogenous surface-active agent or similar, operating at a highly acid pH of 1.5 to 2.1.
• FULLWET.S registered trade mark
• the strand of treated wool fibers is then fed to the smoothing machine at room temperature and at a speed of 5 to 7 m/min, where it is immersed successively in: a first bath of a 1.5% by weight aqueous solution of potassium permanganate maintained at a pH of close to 7; a second bath of a 3% by weight aqueous solution of Na sulfites maintained at a pH of 5.5; and a third bath of a 4-4.5% by weight aqueous solution of Na carbonate maintained at a pH of 9.8 to 10.
• the strand of treated wool fibers is then fed into a wash bath of water only, and finally is immersed in a processing bath containing a 2% by weight aqueous dispersion of a polyamide-epichlorohydrin resin _ g _
• the treated wool fibers are then spun to form a 26 to 100 count combed yarn and carded yarn with 500 to 1300 TS, TZ twists; the yarn is ring twisted, applying 500 to 1500 TS, TZ twists, and woven on a shuttle loom using various types of weave: tropical wool and derivatives, serge and derivatives, batavia and derivatives, satin and derivatives; and the fabrics are subjected to a standard wool finishing cycle wherein, between the wet and dry finishing stages, they are treated with softener by immersion in a 1% by weight aqueous solution of a 1.5-2% by weight mixture of silicone and condensed fatty acids, operating with a pH maintained strictly between 5.5 and 6.5. In some cases, the above pH limits were overstepped for test purposes.
• the fabrics are also singed by feeding them at a speed of 100 to 150 m/min and at a distance of a few centimeters past a gas flame, and then rinsing them in water.
• the resulting fabric presents a quality and feel comparable in all respects to those of conventionally processed woollen fabrics of the same type, with the exception of the specimen fabrics rinsed in softener outside the above pH limits, which are of inferior feel.
• EXAMPLE 2 The fabrics produced and treated as in Example 1 were comparison tested as to matting and relaxation with similar conventionally processed pure virgin wool fabrics, operating as per revised ISO standard 6330. The results are as shown in Table 1. Further samples of woollen fabric produced as in Example 1 were comparison tested with identical conventionally processed woollen fabrics using a WASCATOR (as per revised ISO standard 6330). The results after 20 cycles are shown in Table 2. Finally, the fabrics produced as in Example 1 and subjected to a standard wool finishing cycle, but without being stabilized, and similar conventionally processed poor wool fabrics hot stabilized by steaming and KD, were HOFFMANN tested (as per revised DIN standard 53894). The results are as shown in Table 3.

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• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
• Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
• Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
• Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)

Priority Applications (1)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Publications (1)

Family

ID=11411619

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (3)

Cited By (2)

Citations (6)

• 1993
  • 1993-07-09 IT ITTO930515A patent/IT1261097B/it active IP Right Grant
• 1994
  • 1994-07-08 WO PCT/IT1994/000108 patent/WO1995002085A1/en active Application Filing
  • 1994-07-08 AU AU72742/94A patent/AU7274294A/en not_active Abandoned

Patent Citations (6)

Non-Patent Citations (4)

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