Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/41—Amines
  • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/68—Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

• the present invention relates to cationic dispersions for the treatment of hair or skin, cosmetic compositions containing them and their cosmetic applications.
• cationic surfactants are commonly used. These surfactants unfortunately tend to weigh down the hair and give it a greasy appearance. This phenomenon is all the more accentuated as the treated hair is fine.
• Ceramides have already been proposed in hair compositions. Due to their insolubility in aqueous media, they have hitherto often been used in formulations based on anionic and / or nonionic surfactants.
• the Applicant has just discovered, surprisingly, that by using aqueous dispersions based on ceramides and / or glycoceramides associated with particular cationic surfactants, the disentangling of the hair is significantly improved without weighing it down or greasing it, while obtaining regular smoothing and sheathing from the root to the tip of the hair.
• the dispersions according to the invention also make it possible to reduce the wettability of the hair and therefore to obtain faster drying.
• the cationic dispersions according to the invention are particularly suitable for the treatment of sensitized hair and fine hair. They are particularly stable.
• the Applicant has also found that the cationic dispersions of the invention exhibited completely satisfactory cosmetic properties with regard to the skin and could be applied for the treatment and care of the skin.
• the present invention relates to a canonical dispersion based on ceramides and / or glycoceramides associated with particular cationic surfactants. Another object relates to cosmetic compositions for the treatment of hair or of the skin containing these dispersions.
• Cosmetic treatment is a treatment having the effect of improving the aesthetic appearance of the hair or of the skin.
• Another subject relates to cosmetic treatment methods using the compositions of the invention.
• the cationic dispersions of the invention are characterized in that they contain, in an aqueous medium: 1) at least one ceramide or glycoceramide, or a mixture of ceramides and / or natural or synthetic glycoceramides of formula :
• j denotes an alkyl radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C ⁇ -C- Q fatty acids, said radical possibly being substituted by a hydroxyl group in position ⁇ or a hydroxyl group in position ⁇ esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C j gC jQ fatty acid ;
• R 2 denotes a hydrogen or a (glycosyl) n , - (galactosyl) m or sulfogalactosyl radical, where n is an integer varying from 1 to 4, and m is an integer varying from 1 to 8;
• R 3 denotes a hydrocarbon radical C 15 -C 26, saturated or unsaturated in position ⁇ , which may be substituted by one or more alkyls C j -C ⁇ ; in the case of natural ceramides or glyceramides, R 3 can also denote a C 15 -C 2 ⁇ -hydroxyalkyl radical, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with C 16 -C 30 ⁇ -hydroxy acid; and
• R 4 , R 5 and R 6 which are identical or different, denote a C -, - C 4 alkyl radical;
• R 7 denotes an alkyl radical in G> 2 ; or
• R and R 5 are the same or different C - ⁇ - C ⁇ alkyl radicals;
• R 6 and R 7 are C 10 -C 9 alkyl radicals, identical or different, provided that the total number of carbon atoms in R 6 and R 7 is greater than or equal to 20; the alkyl radical can be interrupted by an ester group and / or an amido group; or
• R 7 denotes a benzyl group and R 6 a alkyl radical in G ⁇ ; or c) R 4 is an alkyl radical C ⁇ -C j;
• R 5 denotes an (alkyl and / or alkenyl) amidoethyl radical, in which the alkyl and / or alkenyl radical is 13 -C 61 .
• Rg and R 7 together with the nitrogen to which they are linked form a 4,5-dihydroimidazole heterocycle substituted in position 2 by a C 13 -C 21 alkyl and / or alkenyl radical.
• anion X preferably denotes chlorine or CH 3 OS0 3 ⁇ and R 4 preferably denotes methyl.
• the weight ratio of ceramides and / or glycoceramides / cationic surfactants is preferably less than or equal to 2.
• ceramides and or glycoceramides of formula (I) are used, alone or in mixtures. They are prepared from natural extracts from pigskin, beef brain, egg, blood cells, plants, etc. They are described in patents JA-86/260008 and JA-87/120308 as well as in application EP-0278505.
• R j denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C 16 -C 9 fatty acid
• R 2 denotes hydrogen
• R 3 denotes a linear radical saturated with C 15 .
• Such compounds are for example: N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine N-pa-Lmitoyldmydrosphingosine N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, or mixtures of these compounds.
• R j denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from fatty acid
• R 2 denotes galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl
• the cationic surfactants of formula (H) of the invention are preferably chosen from the group formed by: a) tetraalkylammonium halides such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or dimethyldistearylammonium chloride. b) a quaternary ammonium salt of formula (III):
• R denotes a mixture of alkenyl and / or alkyl radicals derived from tallow fatty acids, such as for example the products sold under the trade name REWOQUAT (W 75, W 75 PG, W 90, W 90 DPG, W 1599, W 75 H) by the Company
• stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristylacetate) ammonium chloride such as for example the product sold under the name CERAPHYL 70 by the company MALLINCKRODT.
• the cationic dispersions in accordance with the invention can be prepared by pasting the canonical surfactant and ceramide, followed by melting the mixture at a temperature of about 80 ° C., then adding an hot water (80-90 ° C) with vigorous agitation using an ultraturrax.
• the ceramide and / or glycoceramide compound of formula (I) is present in concentrations of between 0.01 and 15% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion and the cationic surfactant of formula (II) is present in concentrations of 0.01 to 15% by weight and preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion .
• the cationic dispersions according to the invention can be incorporated into cosmetic compositions for treating the hair or the skin, to be used in particular as shampoo, as rinsing products applied before or after shampoo, before or after coloring or discoloration, before or after perming or straightening or between their two stages of reduction and oxidation; as leave-in hair care products, to be applied after shampooing; as styling or brushing lotions; as skin care compositions.
• compositions then contain the ceramides and / or glycoceramides of formula (I) in proportions of between 0.005 and 15% by weight and preferably between 0.01 and 10% relative to the total weight of the composition and the surfactant.
• cationic active agent of formula (II) in proportions of between 0.01 and 15% by weight and preferably between 0.05 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• compositions according to the invention have a pH generally between 2 and 9 and more particularly between 3 and 7. These compositions can be in the form of more or less thickened liquids, gels, creams, aerosol foams or sprays .
• compositions can also contain, in addition to the dispersion defined above, viscosity regulating agents, such as electrolytes, hydrotropes or thickeners.
• viscosity regulating agents such as electrolytes, hydrotropes or thickeners.
• these compounds there may be mentioned in particular: sodium chloride, sodium xylenesulfonate, cellulose derivatives, such as for example carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, xanthan gums, guar gum, guar gums hydroxypropylated and scleroglucans.
• These viscosity regulating agents are used in proportions of up to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably less than 6%.
• compositions in accordance with the invention may optionally also contain other agents having the effect of improving the cosmetic properties of the hair or of the skin, provided that they do not alter the stability of the compositions, such as anionic polymers, non-ionic or cationic or quate ized proteins or not and silicones.
• anionic polymers non-ionic or cationic or quate ized proteins or not and silicones.
• Cationic, nonionic or anionic polymers, quaternized proteins or not and silicones are used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention in proportions of between 0.05 and 6% and preferably between 0.1 and 3% relative to the total weight of the composition.
• compositions according to the invention can also contain various adjuvants usually used in cosmetics, such as perfumes, preservatives, sequestrants, foam stabilizers, propellants, dyes, acidifying or basifying agents, as well as others. additives according to the intended use.
• Another subject of the invention consists in a cosmetic treatment process for the hair or the skin comprising the application of a composition according to the invention, this application possibly being followed by rinsing.
• a dispersion of the following composition is prepared:
• This cationic dispersion is applied to wet hair after a simple shampoo or a shampoo following a hair dye. After rinsing with water, wet hair is uniformly smooth and disentangles regularly from root to tip.
• This cationic dispersion is applied to the hair as in Example 1, obtaining the same results.
• a dispersion of the following composition is prepared:
• a dispersion of the following composition is prepared:
• This cationic dispersion is applied to wet hair, after shampooing. Without rinsing the hair, it is dried and then styled. The hair is uniformly smooth, light, sheathed and easy to disentangle from root to tip.
• This cationic dispersion is applied to washed and wet hair, possibly wound on curlers. Without rinsing the hair, it is dried.
• the hair has the same advantages as in Example 6.
• R 3 C 3:31 p.m.
• This cationic dispersion is applied to wet hair, after shampooing. Without rinsing the hair, it is dried and then styled.
• the hair has the same advantages as in Example 6.
• This bath or shower shampoo has a very soft foam and gives the skin softness.

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• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
• General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Public Health (AREA)
• Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
• Birds (AREA)
• Dermatology (AREA)
• Epidemiology (AREA)
• Molecular Biology (AREA)
• Biophysics (AREA)
• Cosmetics (AREA)
• Emulsifying, Dispersing, Foam-Producing Or Wetting Agents (AREA)
• Colloid Chemistry (AREA)
• Saccharide Compounds (AREA)
• Pharmaceuticals Containing Other Organic And Inorganic Compounds (AREA)

Priority Applications (4)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Publications (1)

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Family Applications (1)

Country Status (9)

Cited By (10)

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Citations (4)

• 1991
  • 1991-08-01 FR FR9109824A patent/FR2679770A1/fr active Granted
• 1992
  • 1992-07-30 DE DE69205561T patent/DE69205561T2/de not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 1992-07-30 EP EP92917491A patent/EP0551498B1/fr not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 1992-07-30 JP JP50332693A patent/JP3576165B2/ja not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 1992-07-30 CA CA002092990A patent/CA2092990C/fr not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 1992-07-30 WO PCT/FR1992/000746 patent/WO1993002656A1/fr not_active Ceased
  • 1992-07-30 AT AT92917491T patent/ATE129142T1/de active
  • 1992-07-30 ES ES92917491T patent/ES2078751T3/es not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 1992-07-30 AU AU24347/92A patent/AU662165B2/en not_active Ceased

Patent Citations (4)

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