WO1991011170A1

WO1991011170A1 - Cleansing cosmetics for skincare and/or haircare

Info

Publication number: WO1991011170A1
Application number: PCT/FR1991/000047
Authority: WO
Inventors: Jacques Dubois
Original assignee: Jacques Dubois
Priority date: 1990-01-26
Filing date: 1991-01-28
Publication date: 1991-08-08
Also published as: FR2657525B1; FR2657525A1

Abstract

Cleansing dermo-cosmetic products for skin- and haircare containing a combination of casein and water-soluble lecithin. These products can be produced as a liquid, a powder, a cake, a stick, a gel, a cream or an ointment.

Description

COSMETIC PRODUCTS FOR THE CLEANING AND CARE OF THE SKIN AND / OR HAIR

The present invention relates to hygiene products intended for cleaning and treating the skin and or hair.

The technical sector of the invention is that of the preparation of personal hygiene products. Many skin or hair hygiene products are known for cleaning and treating the skin and / or hair, in particular shampoos in the form of solutions, gel or foam, conditioners, body cleansers. which are added to baths in the form of salts, powders, solutions or gels.

All of these known products contain a high proportion of detergent or surface-active detergent agents and foaming agents of various chemical nature.

Recent research has made it possible to develop new anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric detergent substances which are better tolerated by the skin, the hair and the scalp.

However, all the detergents used to date in the composition of skin or hair hygiene products, shampoo, milk, dermatological cream, have drawbacks linked to their nature. they cause total solubilization of the sebum secreted by the skin, the essential role of which is to provide protection against the environment.

This results in physiological reactions which result first of all in surface irritation, then in an increase in the secretion of sebum (so-called reaction seborrhea).

This process is recognized as one of the main factors responsible for hair loss, or skin intolerance reactions _^

They have their own cytotoxicity because they modify the properties of the membranes of skin cells and lead to the destruction of these cells, hence the appearance of redness or irritation, increased drying of the epidemic and rapid development. of pellets.

They cause embrittlement of the visible part of the hair by causing the detachment of the scales and the appearance of electrostatic charges. Hair becomes brittle, l brittle, and difficult to style. These effects justify the addition, in shampoos or conditioners, of various substances intended to compensate for or counterbalance the harmful effects of the surfactants used in these products.

Attempts have also been made to replace the usual surfactants with various detergents such as so-called mild surfactants, natural saponins extracted from Panama wood, mineral substances such as clay.

The objective of the present invention is to provide products for cleaning and treating the skin and / or hair, such as, for example, shampoos or conditioner lotions or bath salts which are different from skin or hair hygiene known to date by the fact that they do not contain a surfactant, nor a foaming agent or which contain very little mild foaming agent, so that they do not cause any skin irritation, or any embrittlement of the hair due to the presence of these agents.

The objectives of the invention are achieved by means of cleaning and treatment products for the skin and / or hair which contain casein in a proportion of between 6% and 90% of the dry weight and preferably between 7 % and 80, associated with lecithin or lecithin extracts in a proportion of between 0.1 and 30%, and preferably between 0.2 and 10. The casein used is preferably extracted from milk proteins. Plant-based casein can also be used, for example casein extracted from soybeans.

According to a preferred embodiment, the products according to the invention contain a mixture of proteins extracted from milk, of which casein is the most important constituent.

Advantageously, the products according to the invention contain sodium casein which is a by-product of the manufacture of dairy products. Casein is a p__r_mucleo-albumin resulting from the association of a protein and a paranucleine. It belongs to the group of phosphoproteins and contains approximately 0.85% phosphorus and 0.78% sulfur.

The milk proteins constitute the whey or whey which is a by-product of the manufacture of products such as cheeses or yogurts. Whey constitutes about 3.3% of the total weight of milk. It consists of a mixture of casein, lactobumin and lactoglobulin. Casein is the main constituent of this mixture. The presence of casein in milk contributes to the stability of the natural emulsion that is milk. Casein has mild emulsifying properties which make it possible to disperse the fat globules within the whey. These emulsifying properties explain the cleaning power of the products according to the invention which contain casein which disperses the sebum and the fatty stains on the surface of the skin.

Casein is an industrial by-product which is available in large quantities, in particular as a by-product from the preparation of cheeses and yogurts.

In this case, it is obtained in the form of an aqueous solution in a weak alkaline medium called sodium casein, which contains a mixture of milk proteins. Advantageously, it can be incorporated in this form in the liquid products according to the invention, which makes it possible to obtain products having a low production cost.

Whey can also be extracted from casein or casein salts which are sold in the form of a white powder. It can be used in this form in the products according to the invention. Certain plant products, for example soybeans and certain legumes, contain protein substances of a nature and composition comparable to that of milk csein. The toiletries and skin and / or hair care products according to the invention may contain casein of plant origin.

The use of casein has already been described. Thus, the company Unilever in French patent no. 2,370,090, describes dishes cleaning compositions comprising a detergent system (amine oxides and other non-ionic detergents) in which casein plays a purely mechanical role in order to to obtain a good draining effect on the dishes until dry. In these compositions, the casein is associated with large amounts of potent surface-acti agent and is used in low proportions ^1, of the order of 1 to 5%. These compositions are perfectly foreign to the field of personal care products.

French Patent No. 691,635, in the name of Rohfritsch et al. relates to a cream intended for cleaning the skin without the use of water or cloth, the active principles of which are casei and cellulose combined with lime water, ammonia and soda. Before being used this cream has nothing in common with the compositions of the invention which are only active in the presence of water. In addition, it should be noted that the presence in non-negligible proportions of strongly alkaline products limits the use of such a product for cleaning the hands. Because of the causticity and its irritant effect, such a preparation does not fall within the field of the products which are the subject of the invention, which aim above all for perfect skin tolerance.

US Patent No. 4,275,748, in the name of Graziano, describes compositions intended to modify the keratin of the hair and in particular to straighten or straighten it. The active ingredients are essentially sodium hydroxide and polyglycerol, and the action of casein is not specified in these products which are similar to the formulations used in professional hair technique for styling and perms.

None of these prior patents describes hygiene and care products intended for cleaning and treating the skin and / or hair, characterized by perfect local tolerance.

The interesting properties of casein which have just been described turn out to be quite remarkable when the latter is associated with lecithin or with extracts of lecithin.

The invention therefore relates to compositions in which the active principle is constituted by a casein-lecithin association or lecithin extracts. It is recalled that lecithins are phosphorous lipids which are found in various plant or animal tissues.

We find in the trade of lecithin extracted in particular from egg yolk, milk, bone marrow, beans, soybeans, etc ...

Lecithin plays an important role in the permeability phenomena of cell membranes and, as such, in the mechanisms of cell metabolism.

Lecithin extracts which are enriched in phosphatidylcholine and which are dispersible in water are commercially available.

Such substances help to increase and complete the specific effects of ca¬ resin, because they provide a natural emulsifying effect and in addition a superfatting action which is beneficial for the skin and the hair.

In addition, they improve the dispersibility and activity of casein in anhydrous formulations where this substance is dispersed and not dissolved. In these associations, these lecithin extracts are used at concentrations of between 0.1% and 30%, depending on the formulations and the concentration of casein, and more particularly between 0.2% and 10%. The compositions of the invention can be classified into 3 groups.

1. The first family is made up of all the products whose active principle is made up either by casein alone, or by the casein-lecithin combination, formulated in medium aqueous.

It includes more particularly gentle cleansing products such as shampoo, body cream gel, cleanser for intimate hygiene. These formulas can also be used as vehicles for various active substances, for example: antiseptics, antifungals, anti-inflammatories ...

Furthermore, the formulations can also be adapted to obtaining products treating the skin, in particular gels endowed with tensile and film-forming properties making it possible to hydrate the epidermis and to mask the wrinkles and fine lines of the face.

Some examples of preparation of compositions according to the invention are given below by way of illustration without any limiting character.

Ex m l n ° 1: Sham o in

Preparation: soda casein in one part of the water and guar gum in the other part of the water are swollen separately with vigorous stirring.

After complete dispersion which can be activated by heat by heating for example to 60 ° C., the other constituents are mixed and gradually added with stirring.

Advantageously, it is possible to operate under reduced pressure in order to activate the elimination of air bubbles and of foam. Example 2: Body cleansing liquid

Components Proportion by weight

Liquid sodium casein: 6%

Water-soluble lecithin extract: 0.3%

Acetamide monoé amolamine: 3%

Preservative: 0.05%

Sodium benzoate: 0.2% Opacifier: 0.8%

Perfume: 0.7%

Water: 89.25%

Preparation: same procedure as in example n ° 1.

Example n ° 3: Li uide n tt n du vi

Preparation: same procedure as in example n ° 1. Example 4: Film-forming tensor gel? ^"

Components Proportion by weight

Sodium casein: 4%

Water-soluble lecithin extract: 2.5%

90% alcohol: 10%

Glycerin: 1%

Water: 81.5% Perfume: 1%

Preparation: same procedure as in example n ° 1.

The gel is applied to the face; after drying it forms an invisible film on the skin that is both hydrating, protective and tensing. The toilet and skin and hair care products according to the invention have numerous advantages compared to the products used to date for the same uses. They gently cleanse the skin, without excessive defatting and without causing irritation. They have an affinity for keratin in the skin and scalp on which they constitute a protective film.

Not being aggressive, they lend themselves to frequent uses. In addition, they induce and restore the natural protection of the integuments by avoiding hypersecretion of sebum known as reaction seborrhea.

The products according to the invention provide a great softness of the skin which becomes supple, smooth and silky to the touch, they make it possible to obtain supple, shiny hair, easy to style without other treatment, they can serve as a detangling product for the hair. They delay the regreasing of the hair and make it possible to space out successive washes. H. The second family, the active principle of which consists of the casein-lecithin combination, includes dry products, prepared in the absence of water or fatty substances, which are obtained by mixing powders, which can be monitored compaction to form loaves or sticks.

This family of products allows to prepare at the time of use by simple wetting or diluting in water, prepared 3tions that replenish those described previously ^"lying.

To illustrate this range of products, the following examples are given without limitation.

Example No. 5: Body or Hair Cleansing Bread or Powder

Components Proportion gn oids

Sodium casein powder: 50%

Lecithin water-soluble extract: 5%

Polyethylene glycol oxide (carbowax): 20%

Microcrystalline cellulose: 15%

Talc: 5% Perfume: 5%

Procedure: the powders are mixed and then the perfume is added. A powder is obtained which can be used for cleaning hands, hair or as bath salt. The powder can be compacted by optionally adding a binder to give blocks or breads which have the same uses as a soap.

Example n ° 6: Descaling powder

Components Proportion by weight

Sodium casein powder: 25

Lecithin water-soluble extract: 15%

Calcium sulphate semi-hydrated: 60%

Procedure: the powders are mixed.

This powder is used to cleanse, degrease and exfoliate the skin of the face and body; it is applied in a gentle massage on the previously wet skin, then eliminated gradually with water by rinsing and massage.

This type of product is particularly indicated for oily and sensitive skin. _H. The third family is made up of products containing in their active principle, in addition to the casein-lecithin association, an anhydrous fatty substance composed of oils or fats which can be of mineral (vaseline), vegetable (soybean oil) origin. , safflower, almond) or animal (wax, axonge).

The existence of fatty creams and totally lipophilic and hydrophobic ointments is well known: formulated from axongé, wax or petroleum jelly, they are non-wettable and occlusive. The possibility of incorporating water can be obtained by the use of lanolin, but this solution has many drawbacks linked to the greasy character, to the touch,. strong odor and finally the risk of allergic reactions involved in the use of lanolin.

Other creams have been obtained by combining at high temperature paraffinic hydrocarbons with polyethylene glycol 20,000 or fatty alkols, glycerides, organic solvents, glycols, etc. All these poorly tolerated and irritant products are neither hydrophilic nor water dispersible.

The products of the invention, hydrophilic and wettable with water, are in the form of milk, cream or stick depending on the hardness chosen for the mass; by adding water or wetting, they make it possible to reconstitute an emulsion, which makes them spontaneously washable with lukewarm water. They can also be used as cleansers and skin conditioners; their application to dry skin followed by wetting with water makes it possible to dissolve and cause, without the risk of irritation linked to excessive degreasing of the skin, the impurities which accumulate on the vi¬ sage and body. The deep cleaning thus obtained corresponds to the effect of a purifying mask. By their exceptional soothing, protective, softening and hydrophilic properties, these products can be applied without inconvenience to mucous membranes or damaged skin, on oozing wounds such as ulcers, frostbite or bedsores, avoiding any risk of ir¬ ritation or pain conventionally observed in these sharp lesions. They thus constitute a protective dressing and adsorbing secretions, which can also be used in applications on a compress or under the armpits to adsorb sweat secretions.

Another important use of the invention is that of a vehicle of a wide variety -do of active substances.

The advantage is particularly obvious in the case of substances unstable in water, the activity of which will be revealed in the presence of water provided at the time of application of the product either by extemporaneous dilution or by contact with natural secretions. of the organism. The following active ingredients can thus be added with advantage:

- antibiotics: erythromycin base;

- keratobylic relinoic acid;

- antiperspirant: hydroxy-aluminum chloride, zirconium derivatives;

- healing, reducing: cysteine, foudrose; - enzymes: trypsin, chymotrypsin;

-vitamins: A, D, E; -steroids: sterols, hormones;

- anhydrous effervescent mixture: tartaric acid + sodium hydrogen carbonate;

- redox complexes. Other substances can also be introduced into the formulation of the products of the invention:

- humectants: glycerol, sorbitol, glucose, starch or modified starch, constituent of NMF (lactic acid, urea, PCA, mineral salts).

- hydrocolloids capable of acting as hydroscopic substances and as gelling agents: pectin, galactomannans, gum, alginate, agar, gelatin, gelatin, dextrans, xanthans, cellulose and polar or non-polar derivatives, silica and silicates, silico-aluminates.

-antioxidants, complexing chelators, dyes, fragrance ...

The formulations of the products of the invention will be given below by way of nonlimiting example.

Example No. 7: Hydrophilic anhydrous base

Components Proportion by weight

Vaseline: 5%

Paraffin oil: 51% -Ll

Preparation: soften the fatty substances by slight heating (45 °) then add the vitamin E, the lecithin extract - Finally disperse the soda casein and the hydrolyzed starch, dry and in fine powder - Add the perfume.

This base can be applied as it is to the skin. It can also serve as a vehicle for various active substances which are unstable in the presence of water.

It can incorporate more than its own weight of water by simple mixing and give a stable emulsion for several days.

m l n ° -

Preparation: identical to that of Example No. 7. The lukewarm mass, after incorporating the powders is poured into cylindrical molds. After cooling the stick is removed from its mold. This base can be applied to the skin of the face previously wet, directly or using a badger; it is spread more widely on the skin using lukewarm water. After holding for 10 minutes and drying, the residue is removed with lukewarm water. This mask acts both as a scrub and tensor.

Example No. 9: Dermal or ophthalmic cream for therapeutic uses

Preparation: dissolve the BHT in ethyl phtallate, then add this solution to the mixture of melted fatty substances and lecithin extract. Incorporate the soda casein dry powder.

This light cream can be used as a vehicle compatible with many active substances soluble in aqueous medium:

Retinoic acid, erythromycin, cysteine, vitamins ...

It can also be mixed with anhydrous solutions (alcoholic or alcohol-glycolic) of these active ingredients, such as those existing on the market, but irritants.

Example 10: Effervescent bath oil

Components Proportion by weight

Soybean oil: 10% Vaseline: 20%

Vaseline oil: 30%

Lecithin extract: 10% A3 Sodium casein dry powder: 15%

Effervescent mixture:

Tartaric acid QS

Sodium bicarbonate QS: 15% Perfume: QS

Preparation identical to that of Example 7.

The fine and dry powders are incorporated into the mass of fatty substance added with the lecithin extract, and softened by gentle heating.

This preparation is used in Tjain water. It disperses easily in lukewarm water, releasing the effervescence, forming an oily emulsion which is then deposited on the skin.

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Product for cleaning and treating the skin and hair, characterized in that it. contains, as active ingredient, a mixture in homogeneous phase, composed of a main constituent, casein, in proportions of between 6 and 90%, and an extract of non-oily lecithin, wholly water-dispersible, in proportions between 0.1 and 1%.

2. Product according to Claim 1, characterized in that it contains a mixture of protein extracted from milk containing casein.

3. Product according to one of Claims 1 and 2, characterized in that it contains sodium casein.

4. Product according to one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it contains a weakly alkaline aqueous solution of casein as it is obtained after separation of the other constituents of milk.

5. Product according to one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it is presented in the liquid form in aqueous medium, solid in fatty medium or in the form of dry powder.