USRE16686E - Garment and like article op manufacture - Google Patents

Description

July 19 1927'- H. c. MouL'roN GARHENT AND LIKE ARTICLE OF MANUFACTUR Original Filed June 9. 19622 l `Reissued July 19, 117927.

UNITED STATES HARLEY C. MOULTON, OF MAPLEWOOD,

Re. 16,686 PATENT oFFlcE.

` MISSOURI, ASSIGN'OR, BY MESNE ASSIGN- i MENTS, TO LEWIS INVISIBLE STITCH MACHINE C0., A CORPORATION OF MAINE.

GARMENT AND LIKE ARTICLE 0F MANUFACTUBE.

Original No. 1,574,405, dated February 23, 1926, Serial No. 561,043, led June 9, 1922. Application y Y reissue illeil May 24, 1926. Serial No. 111,462.

-This invention relates to iinprovelints in machine-made articles comprising a body presenting two or more layers of sheet material formed by folding the material so as to .place portions of the saine face of two of said layers in juxtaposition and uniting the same by a series of blind stitches located at a distance from the `line of fold.

More specifically an object ofthe inven Ltion is to provide a plain edge garment coniprising a plurality of layers connected by an infoldcd edgeseani with ablind stitch elastic scam connecting said layers at a disi'tancc from the infolded'cdge.

In the manufacture of garments. such as1 coats the body ofthe coat is providedwitlr a -faci'ng which extendsback from/the edge of the coat and either connected to the body of the coat or to a lining at some distance from the edge of the coat. In the forv stitching has heretofore comprised a single thread alternately tacked to the facing andY the outside fabric or to ber ofthe coat.

Thepresent `invention contemplates the production of a coat in which the facing is the stifl'ening memsecured to the outside fabric or the stiffenyet hold the/facing permanently in place l Y and/*prevent*rolling of the vin'folded edge 4Seam.

The invention more broadly includes lthe stitching together of the substantially continuous face of the layers of a folded fabric at a distance from the edge of lthe fold so 4that by spreading the loop. of the fold and completed coat the lower portion of this facpressing it down a box plait may be proing lies upon the inside of the coat and extends a sufficient distance hack to prevent the lining from being displayed when the coat is worn. In the lapel of the coat, which is turned back. the facing is displayed -upon the outside of the garment. In usual constructions the facing is of the same material as the outside fabric of the coat and isconnected to the outside fabric by an infolded edge seam. In some coats, such as certain types of Tuxedo coats, full dress coats and overcoats, the facing is made of a different material fromthat which forms the outside or body of the coat so that the vfacing presents a different. appearance from the body of the coat. In usual garment constructions a line of through and through stitching extends immediately adjacent the edge of the coat and serves more rmly to connect the outside and facin of the coat tb ether at the edge and there y to prevent ro ling of the edge seam. In plain edge coats this line of stitching isv omitted, butl f essary to stitch `the facing to theI outside of the coat, or preferably to the stiffenin member of the coat, by a line of stitching ocated more or less in proximity to the infolded ed e seam. This line of stitching has heretoore been made byhand and greatly increases the cost of production of plain edge.I

vcoats. Furthermore, this line of hand duced.

Various ,other machine-made varticles or products are included inthe'scopel of thepresent invention as will be readily un'derstood by those skilled/in the art. The Invention is disclosed herein as embodied in a usual form of'coat both in respect to the means for securing the juxtaposed faces of the bodyand facing 'of the 'coat together and also as embodied in the boxl plait of a coatlfof the Norfolkr type.V

In the drawin's- Fig. 1 is an e evation of'v one side o f the front and arm of a coat slowin the'y usual seam of through and thro gh stitching eir-l tending along the edge of the coat; y, A

Fig. 2 is a similar view of a plain edge coat; 3 is a back viewpof a-Nor'folk type of coat having box plaits extending lfrom the shoulder tothe waist; 'Fig 4 is a perspective view' of an edge section'of ,the facing and outside fabric ofv the coat secured vtogether and toa tape by? a li-ne of through and through stitching' which forms an initial step" inthe assembly of the coat; .l i

Fig. 5 isa perspective view showing a succeeding step in the manufacture of a coatV in which. the united 'and taped edges of the facing and outside of the coat are shown partially in infolded position and astiffning member attached to -the tape by an elastic seam; v Y

- construction illustrated in Fig. 7 showing the loop spread and pressed down to form a box plait.

In -usual garment constructions as embodied, for example, in the coat illustrated in Fig. 1, the outside lof the coat is provided with an inner facing 2 which is'connected to the edge of the coat by an infolded seam. A line of ,through and through stitching 3 extends along and closely adJacent to the edge of the coat through the infolded edge to prevent the infolded edge seam from rolling. The lapel 4 of the coat is formed by folding back the upper edge ortionof the garment so 'that the facing 2 1s displayed. The line. of stitching 3, however, is displayed along the edge of the lapel as well as the edge of the body of the coat;

In certain coats and other garments now in vogue it has been found desirable t o omit the line of through and through stitching which extends along the edge ofthe coat so l that a garment is produced in which no seam is displayed either upon the edge of the body of the coat or the lapel. Such a garment is illustrated in Fig. 2. In the formation of the plain edge garment, however, as before stated, it is necessary to stitch the facing to the outside or body of the coat or to the stiffening layer of a stiffenedcoat front so as to prevent the infolded edge from rolling. This has heretofore been accomplished by manually tacking the facing to the outside, or to the stiffenin -member of a stifened garment, by a -sing e thread which is.alter nately caught in 'the ad'acent portions of the facing and the outsi e or the stiffening member.

The present invention comprises a plain edge coat in which the facing is stitched to the outside or to the stiifening member by a. machine-made, elastic, preferably lockstitch seam. Such a ,constructionV has, so far as I am aware, never heretofore been accom lished. I

e present invention more broadly contemplates a product or article of manufac ture of sheet material in which the portions ofa body, which may comprise a single sheet or a plurality of superimposed sheets, is folded to produce a loop and portions of one substantially continuous face `of the body juxtaposed and secured together by an elastic, preferably lock-stitch seam of blind stitching in which loops of one thread alternatel enter and emerge from the juxtapose face portions of said layers a'nd are concatenated by a locking thread.

Steps in forming a plain edge and the box plait of a garment are shown in the accompanyin drawing as illustrative of some of the ein odiments of the present invention. It will, however, be understood that other adapt-ations of the invention .may be made Within the scope of the claims.

One of the first steps in the final assembling.of a coat or other garment having an" infolded edge is illustrated in Fig. ,4 in which the facing 5 is superimposed'upon .the outside fabric 6 which forms the body ofthe garment and are secured together and to a tape 7 extending along the edgeby. a line of through and` through stitching 8 rI`he next step in the formation ofthe garment consists in folding the facing.. around the juxtaposededges 9 andr 10 'as illustrated in Fig. 5.v It Will be noted that when this is ldone the tape 7 is folded back upon itself and` extends at a distance beyond the edges 9 and 10 of the infolde'd y v seam. Wherev the garment is provided with-v a stifening layer, such as a layer of canvas, this stifeiiing vlayer 11` desirably is secured to the projecting 'edge lof the tape 7 byv an elastic seam such as a felling or an overedge seam. 'p y In thel construction illustrated in Fig. 5 a1 lock stitch seamV is shown which comprises a series vof alternating yloops of needle thread 12 and 13 which l respectively pass through'thetape andefnter and emerge from the upper or inner surface of the stiffening -layer '11 and; are 4connected together by -a passes.

stitch seam whichdoes not passthrough tov concatenating` thread 14 which through the successive loops. g

Thusit willv be obvious thatthe securedto the stifening'layer 11 by the displayed face of the 'outer layery 6.

Where a garment is formed'without' a vsteningv -layer theta e maybe similarly sewed to the outside ayer by a line of blind stitching which does notv pass through .the

displayed face of said outside' layer.

Inasmuch as the garment may be constructed either with or without a stiifening layer, and also ,since the folded portion of the garmentmay comprise a single or a plurality of layers of material, the single or lul) superimposed layers are defined herein as the body of the material.

or a plurality of superimposed layers, presents, when in' a fiat condition, substantially continuous lower and upper faces, when the seams connecting the layers are disregarded. Thus in the construction illustrated in Fig. 6 the face portion 15 of the outside 6 ofthe The body", l Whether made of a single layer of material I garment and the face portion 16 of the facing constitute, when the facing is extended before folding, a 'substantially continuous outer face. Likewise the 'inner face portion v17 of the stitfening layer, when a stiffening layer is employed, orthe inner face ortion 18 of the outside 6, when a stiifening layer is not employed, is substantially continuous with the face poi-tion 19 of the facing and constitute the upperface'of the body asabove deined, irregularity due-to the formation of the infolded seam being disregarded. v

When, therefore, the material is folded as illustrated in Fig. 6 the face portion 19 of the facing' is placed in juxtaposition to the saineface portion 17 of a layer'forminga portion of the bodyr of the garment, and in the presentv invention these face portionsare secured together by an elastic lock stitch seam of blind stitches in which the loops alternately penetrate the adjacent surfaces of the facing and stifening -layerV or outer layer as the -case' 'may be without passing through the opposite surface of either layer.

The articular formv of blind stitcli-seam,

which 1s illustrated in Fig. 6, comprises a main or needle thread 20 having a series of loops 21 which enter and emerge from. the upper face of thel stifening member 11 and Aan alternating series of loops 22 which enter and emerge from the same continuous face of the facing layer, theloops 21 and 22 being in staggered position in the respective layers. The oops 21 and 22 are connected by a.concatenatingthread 23. A relatively loose tension is applied to the threads of the seam so that the seam-is -sutlicieiitly elastic to permit the goods to be pressed into proper position without wrinkling, but serves to retain the juxtaposed face portion of the stifl'ening member and facing sufliciently to prevent rolling of the inturnedv edge which wouldoccur in the absence of means for securing the facing tothe stiening layer or to the outside layer.'

In Fig.l 6 the free edge'ofgthe facing. isl shown inl full linesv as lrolled upwardly in order -to 4display the line of stitching. and vin dotted lines is shown in'th'e .position in which it lies` in theassembled garment.- The 'usual lining24 isesecurejd tothe lin'n'e1 ec'lge por.-

tion `ofthe facingin the usual mannerasillustrated' indotted lines. r..

Fig-.1 7 illustrate'sfthe 'invention as` appliedto asinglesheet of materialfolded to, present by az-.lineof :blinds either layer. of material v25-is benttoformxa loop 26,

-the upper layer 27 of materialyformingthe loop being connected to the lower layer by a line of blind stitches 28 preferably similar. to the line of stitches comprising the alternating loops 21 and 22 illustrated in- Fig. 3 which respectively enter and emerge from the juxtaposed portions of the same face of the material. y

The loop thus formed may, instead ofv providing a plain edge, be spread and pressed to form a box plait. The edges 29 and 30 extend equal distances from the line of the seam 28. In Fig. 3 a box plait of this character is shown as embodied in the back of a coat. The front of the coat preferably is p rovidedwith a plain edge as illustrated in The invention may be readily adapted to other forms of garments and to 4other articles ofmanufacture as will be apparent to those skilled in the art. Consequently, it will be understood that the particular embodiments of the invention disclosed herein are illusl trative and not restrictive of the AScope of the following claims.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is: f

1. In a seam, the combination of two separate body fabrics arranged in super oSed relation, the inner marginal portions eing inturned and secured by a line of stitching, and

a line of blind stitches connecting the fabrics vand extending parallel with said inturned marginal portions but spaced therefrom, said blind stitches including a series of ually spaced and anchored penetrant needle t read loops which enter and emerge respectively,

- comprising a vplurality of layers including `an outer layer and affacing connected thereto by an infolded edgel seam vand having the juxtaposed portions ofthe face tinuous lface of another layer connected vby an elasticlock stitch Vseam of blind stitches which do not pass through the `outer face of either layer and which are located at a distance from said infolded edge and remote from the edges of said'layers.

4. A plain edge garment having a body comprising an outer layer and a facing connected together by a taped infolded edge seam, a layer of stitening material connected said tape by anelastic seam and preseiit- "ing with said facing a substantially continuof said facing and a ,portion of the same substantially conous face and having an elastic lock stitch seam of blind stitches connecting the juxtaposed portions of the face of said stiiening layer and the facing at a distance from said infoldededge and remote from the edges of said stiffening layer and facing.

5. A machine-sewed ,article comprising a body of sheet materialffolde'd to presentl tWo layers having portions ot' the same face of the body juxtaposedand united b y an elastic blind stitch seam comprising a series of alternating loops. of thread' Which respectively enter into and emerge from the juxtaposed face portions of the respective layers at a distance from the line of fold and remote from the edges of said layers and extend in a direction of the line of the seam and means concateating said alternating loops extending in directions oblique to the line of the seam.

, 6. A machine-sewed article having'a body comprising outer layers of sheet material connected by an infolded edge seam, a sheet of stiffening material connected to` the inolded edge and an elastic blind stitch seam, connecting the juxtaposed face ot' one of said outer layers and said stifi'ening sheet at a distance from the infoldcd odge andv icinote from the. edges of said outer layer and said stiftenmg sheet, comprising a thread having alternating loops which re-v spectively enter into and emergetrom the respectliw4 1uxtaposed face portions of said st'ening material and lone of said outer layi ers and which extend in the direction of the line of the seam and a thread concatenating said loops the sections of which between the loops extend in directions oblique to the' direction ot' the line `of the seam.

7. A plain edge garment having a body comprising an outer layer and a-acing connected together by a Ataped infolded edge seam, a layer of stiffeningmaterial connected to saidtape by an elastic' lock-stitch seam comprising a series of alternating loops which respectively enter into and emerge from the respective juxtaposed faces'of the stiffening material and the tape and are connected b a concatenating thread the portionsof Whic 1 between the loops overlie the edge of the tape and an elastic lock-stitch seam connecting said stiiening layer and facing together at a distance remote from the infolded edge seam and also vremote from the edges of said stil'ening layer comprising a series of alternating loops ot thread which respectively enter into and emerge from the juxtaposed :['aces of said facing and stiffening layers respectively and extend in the direction of the line of seam and a concatenating thread connecting said alternate loops the sections of which intermediate of the loops extend in directions oblique tothe line of the seam.'`

1n testimony vwhereof I hereunto aiiix my signature.

f fHARLEY o7 MoULToN.

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