US926322A - Pattern-former. - Google Patents

Description

M. DUBINSKY.

. PATTERN FORMER.

APPLIOATIQN rum) SEPT. 4,1900.

926,322. Patented June 29, 1909,

6 SHBETSSHEET 2.

WITNESSES: INVEA/TUH Array/Y5K M. DUBINSKY.

PATTERN FORMER.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 4, 190a.

Patented June 29. 1909. H

6 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

I /GY WITNESSES:

JTTOR/VEY M. DUBINSKY.

PATTERN FORMER.

APPLICATION FILED SBPT.4,1908.

926,322. Patented June 29,1909.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

W/TNESSES: IN VE N 7' 0!? M n me JTI'OHIVEV.

M. DUBINSKY.

PATTERN FORMER.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 4, 1908.

926,322. Patented June 29,1909.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 5.

M. DUBINSKY.

. PATTERN FORMER.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 4, 1908.

926,322. Patented June 29, 1909.

6 EHEETS-SKEET 6.

Wlf/VESSES: MWEA/rm ATTORNEK MOSES DUBINSKY, OF PHILADI-JLPIIIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

- PATTERN-FORMER.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented; June 29, 1909.

Application filed September 4, 1908. Serial No. 451,646.

To-a-ZZ who-in it may concern:

Be it known that 1, Moses DUBINSKY, a

citizen of the United States, residing at 2502 North Seventeenth street in the city and county of Philadelphia and State of Pennsylvania, have invented a new and useful Improvement 111 Pattern-Formcrs, of which.

the following is a specification.

'My invention relates to improvements in adjustable and graduated pattern formers, and my object. is to provide a new and improved device ofthis phai-acter, adapted more. particularly to laying out patterns for ladies fur coats or jackets, which'shall bereadily and accurately adjustable-to all variations in form and proportion, both for stock and for measure Work.

My improved pattern former consists of a series of principal frames and of auxiliary forms to be used in connection therewith, the members or parts whereof are adjustable relatively to each other and are furnished With scales or graduations to facilitate any desired adjustment to body measurements. The members are connected by pivots and studs and, are-clamped in position by thumbscreWs when adjustment of the frame or form is complete.

" In the accompanying drawings Figure 1,

Sheet 1, shows the pattern former for the front of the coat; Fig. 2, Sheet 2 that for theunder-arm'piece Fig. 3, Sheet 2, that for the side body, Fig. 4, Sheet 2, that for the back of the body Figs. 5 and 6, Sheet 8, show pattern formers for semi-fittings, employed in substitutionfor the side-body piece shownin Fig. 3; Figs. 7 and 8, Sheet 4, those for the outer and under sleeve sections; Figs; 9 and.

10, Sheet 5, those for single and double darts respectively, for tight-fitting; Fig. 11, Sheet 6, that for a revers 'for either furs or cloaks; Fig. 12, Sheet 6, that for a notch collar for fur coats; Figs. 13 and 14, Sheet 5, those for the outer andyinner sections of a St0l1i1COllar; Fig. 15, Sheet 3 that for a shzuvl collar; Figs. 16and 17, Sheet 6, those respectively for front and back loose coat attachments; Fig. 18, Sheet 6, that for a'notch collar for cloaks, Fig. '19, Sheet l, that for a neck at- 'tacl-.ment for waists; Fig. 20, Sheet 3, that for a choker for waists, and Fig. 21, Sheet *1, that for the shoulder back attachment.

.The members of my pattern former may be constructed from any suitable"materiall,

' preferably sheet metal, of such thickness or stiffness as to properly preserve the shape ct the frame or form, when clamped, and to se' cure the requisite adjustability of the several members.

- 'i hroughout the specification those membcrsuhich are integral I shall designate as rigidly connected; those members which are pivotally connected I- shall designate as -piv.: Otcd.

Those members which are slotted and shdably connected by studs and thumb,-

"screvis, I shall designate as adjustably connectcd.

In the accompanymg drawings the second ary'numerals accompanying the numerals of reference indicate integral parts of the same number as 1, 1 1 1 i In Fig. 1, which shows my pattern former for the front of the'coat, the memberl is formed with the graduated offset 1 and the parallel arms 1 and-1 the former being graduated.

cured thereto.

The members 4 and 5, substantially identical in form, are furnished \ vitlrthc arms 4 and 5 between which passes the offset 1, the member 4 being graduated. The members 1, 2 and 3 are also inclosed between the members 4. and 5 which are adjustably connected to the members 1, Qand 3.; The member '6 isformed with a slotted and graduated body and an arm 6 the latter" being adjustablv secured to the arm 1 The member 7 is adjustably secured upon the member 6, The graduated member 8 is pivoted upon the .member 7. The member? is adjustably secured to the member 8 and to the graduated member 10, which is pivoted to the'ends of members 4 and 5. The members 11 and 1).

are graduated and adjustably secured, by a.

stu'd common to both members, to, the'mcinber 6. The arm 12 of themember 12 is further secured by a thumb-screw in the slot of the member 6.3The member 13, is adjustably secured to' the parallel arms 1 and 6. The armed-3 13 and 15 of the member 13 are slotted, the arms. 13. and lifibcing graduated; and to the arms 13 and 13 is adjustably secured the member 14 by its arms 1 1 and 1-11", the upper end of the mcmber 11 being similarlysecured to the graduated member 11. I

T he upper end of the member 15 is pivoted upon member '1 1, the pivot being formed with a stud which is mounted in the slot of member 11, so thntwhilc member 15 is pivoted upon member 14, bothmembcrs are ad The members 2 and 3 are 'piv-g oted upon the member 1 and ad ustably semember 1.6, the other end of the latter bein shown in Fig. 1.

justably mounted as a unit upon member 11.

The graduated arm 15 of the member 15 has adjustable connection with one en d of th D ad ustably secured to the arm 13 The member 17 is formed with the graduated and doubly slotted arm 17 and the projection l7 andis adjustably secured to the graduated member 12. The m mber 18 is formed with the graduated arms 18 and 18 which are adjustably connected to the member 17 by the members 19 and 20. The member 21 is pivoted through members it and 17, the members 21, 19 and 17 being adjustably secured as a unit upon the member 12. The arm 21 justably securedto the arm- 17 The member 22, provided with the graduated arm 22, is pivoted at its upper end through the member 18 so that the members 18 and 22 are ad just-ably mounted as a unit in the coincident slots of graduated members .23 and 24, the

member 23 being adjustably secured to member 24. The arm 22 and the lower end of member-18 are adjust-ably secured to the arm 17 by the connecting member25. A further graduated ,member 26 adjustably connect-s the two lower halves, so to speak, of the frame Reverting to the righthand upper portion of Fig. 1, the member 27 having the arm 27- isadjustably secured to the member 7, While the arm 27 'makes an adjustable connection with the member 2 1. Having thus set forth the component members of that portion of my pattern former shown in Fig. i, I will describe its mode of adjustment for laying out the pattern.

My invention may be employed either in the preparation of patterns for ready-made garments or stock work, or for measure or custom work. the adjustmentof my pattern former for the laying out of stock patterns.

in laying out stock patterns for made'garments, it is well-known th bust measure is taken as unit which date mines all succeeding measurements. it accordingly proceed follows: For a bust measure of, say 36, the member 7 is adjusted upon the member 6 until the lei tv hand edge or member 7 coincides with the. graduation 36 on the member 6, wncn 6 and 7 are clamped. The members 13 14 and 18 represent the waist line. Accordingly the members 14 and '19 are respectively set at the graduation 36km the members lf and 18 in like manner the left-hand end of the member 1? is set at 36 on the lowermost se- .i ment to 36 made of members and upon the graduated members i3 'and 18* Reverting to the upper portion ofjl ig. l,

the oilset 1 has two d of the member 21 is ad-' I will therefore that describe measure L2 the waist measure is the ist-inct series of graduae tions. These e-'tend' lcngtluvise of the member beginning at the lower side, ind-icate respectively the adjustment for tightl'itting, three-quarter tight, half-loose and loose. The graduations at right angles to those above described are numberwl from left to right from 3; to 46. The arm 4 of the member 4 is so notched as to be capable of adjustment to both series-oi graduations. Thelel t-hand edge of the arm 4 being set at 36, the notch is then adjusted to the longitudinal graduations according to the desired size or style, tight-fitting, threequart-er tight, etc, as above described. This adjustment correspondingly shifts the position of the shoulder point at the upper end of member 4 and also regulates the shoulder w' lth. A feature to be noted in connection with this and the succeeding frames and auxiliaryforms is that at the necessary points of sliding connection or adjustment l have graduated the members fromSZ to 46, and that in consequence, for trade or stock work it is onlynccessary for the operator to determine the desired bust measure, as, for exan1ple,36, and thereupon adjust and secure the several members of the pattern former to graduation 36. The pattern may then be marked out without further measurement or calculation on the part of the operator.

Having described the adjustment of so much of my pattern'torm as is embodied in Fig. Lin laying out patterns for stock work, I will now set forth its mode oi adjustment for measure Work.

I have prepared a table for use in connection with my improved pattern former, wherein under each bust measure from 3; to 46 have tabulated the accompanying rouru'l and length. measures. For example; for bust O1 and hips -s Forb ust measure 3% the waist measure 22:1,- and ups 4G, and sounder each 1st measure every requisite round and length measure is tabulated. In meas re \ro 'lthe bust measure is taken and the adjus ieht a l'* upon Fig. 1 as hereinbeliore (.lt ribed work. The waist measure is then taken, which we will suppose to This will befound under the ta le of bust measure 34: The members of 1 frame are therefore aojusted for the waist measure at the graduation 34%. The hip nu sure, we will assume, proves to be which found under the table of bust measure and the adjustment for the waist-measure is therefore made at the graduation 32 on those members of the pattern former which representthe Waist measure. This process is repeated for e'ach measurement as taken from the person to be fitted. Thus I avoid the necessity for a double set'of graduations upon each nuns-- ber of the nattern former and am enabled by a single set oi graduations upon. the members to lay out atterns as well for'measure work as for stoc work.

Continuing now my description of the ad justment of Fig. l for measure work, the

' member 26' affords the necessary iuljustnient -for flat or high stomach, the two lower sections or halves, so to speak, of 1 being measure is obtainable through the members 24, 23 and 18. The, requisite adjustment for a long or short front is obtainable through adjustment of member 1 with its curved oil'- set 1..- Themember 60, Fig. 1, constitutes the pattern former for a revers or lapel, Where a pattern'ior one is required' in connection'with the coat front patternf In Fig. 2, Sheet 2, which shows the pattern former for'the under-arm piece, the graduated member 28 is formed with the graduated .arm 28 to which is adjustablysecured the arm 29 of the graduated member 29, the members 28 and 29 being further adjustably connected by the member 30, the arm 31 of the member 31 being adjustably secured to the member 32, and both members being ad justably mounted upon the slotted member 29. The members 32 a-nd 33 are laterally adjustable by means of the graduated arms 32, 32., 33 and 32/ and both the member 33 and'the arm 32are adjustably secured to the 1 member 28.

The method of adjustment of Fig. 2 is as follows: For stock work the members are .53 j adjusted to the proper graduations in accord anoe with the system hereinabove described in connection with Fig. 1 For" measurework, the requisite length under arm in par ticular cases is obtained by adjusting the member vertically upon the members 28 and. 29 and'by similarly adjusting. the menu bers3l, 32 and 33 upon the members 28 and -29. The requisite width for the hips is obtained by lateral ad ustment of the member 32 with its arm 32 upon the member 33.

'furthcr adjustment for hip measure s ob tained through adj ustinentbi' the member 31 with its arm 31 upon the member 32-.

In Fig. 3, Sheet 2, which shows the pattern former for the side-gore, the members 34,

Oi) and 36 are superimposed upon eachother in the order nanicd, the member 34 being graduated at its lower end. The lower end of the member 35 is pivoted. upon the member 34, its upper end being transverselyslot ted. The lower end of member 36is like- Wi e transversely slottedand both members 'tical and lateral *ltlj'USillIlQIllJ relatively th Sfi land 35 are adjustably secured at this point to the member 34. The member 36 is longitudinally slotted-at its upper end and is" provided with a series of perforations border mg said slot. Tlhe slotted and graduated member 37 is furnished with a graduated arm.

37 to which is adjustably secured the enlargement 34 of themembcr 34. I The momber is pivoted upon the member 38, both members being adjustably mounted as a unit upon-the member 3st, and the arm 40 of the member 40 is adjustably secured upon member 38. The ipper ends oi' members 3% and 36 on the onehand and of member 37 on the other-are adjustably connected by the member 41.

Having described the component parts of the frame shown in Fig. 3 I will now; set forth the mode of adjustment, thereof.

For stock work the adjustment of members' is made according to the principle hereinbefore described. For measure work the re ui'site length of the side-gore is ob tained y Vertical adjustment of the mcmbers ll, 38 and 39 upon the members 34.- and 37, as hereinabove described in connection with Fig. 2. The member 40 is designed to secure an optional adjustment for a pattern n ith or without plait. 1 The enlargement 34 is adj ustablc upon the graduated member 3? to allord the requisite bust measure adjustment. The members 35 and 36 are laterally adjustable upon the enlargement 34." for hit back, round shoulder, or hump, the requisite graduations for such adjustment briiilg' marked upon the enlargement 3 1 of the member 34.

In Fig. 4, Sheet 2, which shows the pattern i'ormorior the backpart of the garment, the graduated member 42 is formed with the k 42. 'l he member 43 is formed with the arm 43 and the rectangular enlargement 43 which adjust-ably secured to the member 42. The n'iember 4% lies directly behind the upper half of member 43 and has both wer to. One end oi the member "1-5 is adjust secured between the end oi. the membr. and the arm l 3, the otlu. 4-5 being adjustably sccu l to the arm 4-2 1 of the member 4.2. 'll emcmber 45 is 'g .\i= ':.ited at its upper end to the member and is overlaid by the nuunbor pride 1 1 .d ust ablv socu'red., to the member 45 and is furnished with the notched an d perforated head 46. ll he member 4-? is ibrined with the arm 47, the sraduated arm at and the graduated end of the n'uunbcm lre upper end of the member 4.8 is i iii) ' graduated arm i? and to the arm 4.7

- member 46, 46

The mode-of adjustment of Fig. 4 is as follows: For stock work: the adjustment of members is according to the system hereinbefore (lescri bed. F or measure work the requisite length is obtained by adjusting member 47 upon member 43. By lateral adjust ment' otthe members 48 and 4.9 the pattern for the back piece may be laid out either with or without plaits or slits. Width of hips is obtained by adjusting the arm 47 and width of back by adjustment of the member 43 uponthe member 42, a corresponding adjustment of the member 45 being effected in connection therewith. Adjustment fornarrow chest and wide back is effected through the The perforations a, b, c and d in the member 36' of Fig. 3 correspond to the equal number of perforations a 1), c and d in member 46 of Fig.4, whereby the reqisite adjustments for size or style may be eli'ected, the perforations inmember 36 be ing fitted to the corresponding perforations in member 46 i In Fig. 5, Sheet 3, which shows the pattern former for semi..-fittings, the member5Q is provided with the graduated arms 50 and 50 and the arm 50 The-member 51 is adjustably secured to the arms 50 and 50 and is pivoted to the connecting piece 51 which is adjustably secured to the arm 50 of the member 50. T he members 52, 53 and 5d are ad3ustably secured to each other, the last member being adjust-ably secured between the member 51 and the arm 50 of the member 50. The member 52 is graduated and is furnished at its upper end with the rows of perforations e, f and g. in Fig. 6, Sheet 3, which also SllOf-TS a pattern former for semiiitting's, the member is orovided at its lower end "with the arm 55. is provided with the gra . luated arms 56 and 56 and the arm 56 The members 57, 58 and 59 are adjustably secured to each other, the last member being adj ustably secured to the member The member 57 is furnished at its upper end with the rows of perforationse,f 5111C g Having set forth the component members 1 Figs 5 and 6 constituting the pattern ormers for semi-nttings I will now describe he manner in which said pattern-formers .re used to incite se the. widths of the pate ns formed from Figs. 2 and 4. The pat- 2, being adjusted in accordance with nents' taken from the person to be fitted, -Vsseveral members are clamped, the pattern iorn'ier is laid down upon a sheet of paperand the outline, of the 'undenarm piece in Fig,

the member 56 ern former for the under-arm piece shown j F. ..e

ed e or member 30, e l

IittI'lTSCl out upon t e sheet, following the outer edges oi" nit. eis ano. 33, tn oi- '91 edges or mem- 1 i 1 ,3 r a J oer-s 53 3,2 and 31 an the enter edges of iiembers 31 and 29. it, new, the body measurements require that the Widths of the eatternthus laid out-upon; the sheet be in creased, the pattern former shown in Fig. 5 is laid den-s1 upon the pattern already marked out from Fig. 2, the m inbers 53, 54 and 51 of Fig. 5, being so adjusted that their in ner or left hand edges fit to the right hand side line of the pattern formed byFig. 2. The members 52, 53 and 54, Fig. 5 are, at the same time adjusted longitudinally so that the curved upper edge of member 52 forms .a'

continuation of the curve marked upon the sheet by the upper edge of member 30, Fig. 2,

and so that the lower end of member 5 1, Fig. 3

5, with the lower edges of" members 51 and 50 are coincident with the line laid outupon the sheetby the member 33 32 and-31. Fig. 2. The member 50, Fig. 5 is then drawn out laterally, keeping the point 50 upon the left-hand side line already laid out uponthesheet, until the distance from the outer edge of member-. 51, Fig.- 5 to the outer edge of member 50 represents the actual desired width of the under-arm piece in the garment. These adjustments having been cfi'ected, the

members of Fig. 5 are clamped and an increase in the Widths of the under arm piece as originally laid out from Fig. 2 is obtained by following with a pencil the outer or left hand edge of member 50,- Fig. 5 and the outer or right hand edges of members 52, 53, a

54 and 51. Any one of'the rows of perforations 6. and g. in the upper end of member 52, F ig. 5 may be used to continue the curved top of the undenarm pattern, where the body measurements so require, instead of using the upper edge'itself of member 52 as above described. The pattern former for semi-fittings shown in Fig. 6 is used in like Upon the pattern thus formed is laid the pattern foiniershown' in Fig. 6; the right hand edges of members 57, 58, 59 and 55, Fig. 6

being adjusted to coincidence with the left.- hand side line of tlie'pattern formed from Fig. 4. The IllBlllbOl 56, Fig. is drawn out laterally, keeping the point 56- upon the right hand side-line of the original pattern.

The upper curved end of member 57, Fig. 6' is ad ustedto-forni a downward continuation or the left-hand outer edges of member e6,

Fig. 4,01, if required, any one .of-the suk'cossive curved rows'of perforations 0 or g, mniember 57 Flg, 4, may be ad u sted'-to form such continuation- In Figs. 2 and 5 the members 323 and-50 represent the waist line and must be kept coincident in the above described super-imposition. The same is true of members 32 and 59' which represent justed to the line laid out bythe right-lmnd edges of members 32 and 29 of Fig. 2 and a new side-line tor the pattern is formed by following the right-hand edges of members 51, 54, 53 and 52, Fig. 5, this new side-line is by no means parallel with or a more exten;' sion of the line formed by members 32 and 29 or Fig. 2. In other Words. there is obtained by the use'of said semi-fitting pattern 'formers not merely an increase in the widths of the pattern, but a modification of its sideline curve aswell. And the same is true of the function of the semi-fitting pattern former shown in Fig. 6 as employed in con.- nection with the pattern laid out by Fig. 4.

In'Fig. 7, Sheet 4, which shows the pattern former for the upper sleeve, the member v'61 is graduated and is furnished with the graduated arm 61 The member (32 is formed with the arm 62 whereby it is adjustably connected to the arm (S1 The graduated member 63 is adjustably connected to the member 62 and is pivoted upon the member 64 which in turn, is adj ustably connected to the member 65. The member 66 is pivoted upon the member 65 and ad- ,justably connected to the member 61. The

lower end of the member 67 is adjustably connected to the member 62, and its upper end is pivoted upon the member 68 which is ladjustably connected to the member 69. The members 70 and 71 are adj ustabl y' connected to each other and to the members 61. and 69 at one end and to the members 02 and 67 at the other. Adjustments i'or width at thetop of the sleeve are made by means i-.'

the members 79 and 71, the member ossliding correspondingly upon the member 69; and for the lower-width by adjustment of member 62 upon member 61 and of member 6t upon member 65. Adjustments for length are obtained by lengthening members.

61 and upon inembei's 69 and 67 and by similarly len ' thenim members 63 and 66.

upon members 62 and 61.

In Fig. 8, Sheet 4, which shows the pattern former for the under sleeve, the member 72 is framed with the graduated arms 72 and The member 7.) is formed withthe arm 73 whereby it is adjustablyconnected to the arm 72 and the arm '73 whereby it is adj'ustably connected to the arm 72. To the hers l and 6 in Fig. 1, and the left-hand and 87 and similar adjustment is made to the pattern The left hand edge of lower endof the member 73 is connected the graduatedmember member 75 is pivoted at one end to tb. her '7 6 which is adjustably con! member 72., The other end of t 75 is 2. ljustably'connect l to The member 77 aopistebly cesarthe member 72. The member 7 justably connected to the member 1a. membors. 79 and 80 are pivotedfre j to the members 77 and 7S and are ad connected. to each other. Adjnsiine width and l'engtl'i are obtained in l) adjustments which are su'llicie E'- vious in VlOW of the foregoing explanations.

Ii -Fig. 9, Sheet 5, the members 8]: and 853 are adjustablyconnected byIthc mcmbers S3, S3, 82 and by the member 84.. The horizontal graduatedmember 85 carries the ends of the members 86 and 87, the'latter being adj ustably .mounted thereon by its arm 87, the graduated lower ends of the members 86 and 87 being adj ustably secured between the upper ends of the members 81 and 82 andthe arm 83 of the member 83. I

In Fig. 10, Sheet 5, the members 88 and S9, 90 and 91, 92 and 93,-and'94 and are adj ustably connected in pairs, the lower portions of the members 89 and 95 being graduated and the lower portionsof the members 89, 91 93 and 95' being slotted; These eight members are adjustably mounted upon the connecting member 96. The lower ends of the members 88 and 90 and of; the members 92 and 94 are adjustably connected respectiv-ely by the members 97 and The upper ends of the members 89, 91 93 and 95 are adjustably connected to the graduated member 99.

'Figs. 9 and 10 constitute the pattern formcrs for laying out the darts-a single dart in Fig. 9 for cloaks or furs, or double-darts in Fig. 10 for. cloaks or waists. 'The. mode oi adjustment is as follows: After the pattern has been laid out by Fig. 1, Sheet 1, big. 9 is laid down upon the pattern thus marked, the lower edge of member 85 being made coincident with the line indicated upon memend of member 85 being made coincident l the left-hand. edge of member 1', 1 The member 87' is then adjusted to thesame graduation on member 85 as that at the member 12 stands on the member 9, Fig. 1. Adjustment for width o-ffldart is made upon the arms 8-3 83 and 84; and for-length, by vertical adjustment of members and 81 82 respectivcly.- 1n F1 10 a marked out by Fig. 1.

member 99 is made coincident with, the leit hand-edge of member 1 but the lateral. adjustment is made by bringing the slot 99 Fig. 10, to coincidencewith the hne ill-r33 F 1g. 1. The arm 89 is adjusted to the graduation onmember-99 corresponding to that of j for the underpiece for a shawl collar. To arm 12 on member 6, Fig. .1, the arm 05 bemg also adjusted to the corresponding gradnation. The width of the den ile darts is secured by lateral ad ustment of the vertical members of Fig. upon the-member 96, the

desired length being obtained by adjusting members 68, 9'0, 92 and 94 upon niembersSQ,

91, 93 and 95.

Fig. 11, Sheet 6, shows the pattern former for laying out revers in mens shape for furs or cloaks. The member 100 is formed with the head'lOO and arm 100 To the head is adjustably'secured the graduated -member cured thereto. I I

played in connection with Fig. 1, as follows The right-hand edge of member 100, Fig. 11,

101, the head 100' and arm 100 being connected by the member102adjustably se' This pattern former is emis made to coincide with the right-hand edge ofthe main body of the member 1, Fig. 1, andthe member 101, Fig. 11, is fitted over them: her 4, Fig. 1, the extreme ends of the members being made coincident in laying out patterns for furs, and the end of member 4, Fig. 1, and the graduation y.'y.' on member 101, Fig. 1 1, being made coincident for cloaks.

, member 100 is adjusted to thegraduation on member 101' corresponding to the adjustment of Fig. 1. .The desired width of revers is secured by lateral adjustment of member 102 at its u )per and lower ends.

Fig. 12,

,stormcollar. In Fig, 13 the member 109 is formed with the lateral arms 109 109 and- 109? on one side, and 109, 109 and 109 on the other.

the A rms and 109 is adjustably secured the member 111. The member 112 is pivoted to the member 111 and ,slidably secured to the arm 109 i v I In Fig. 14, Sheet 5, the member 113 is ormed with the lateral arms 113", and a 3 on one side and 113",113 and 113 on her. To the arms 113 113 and 113 is nstably secured the 1. her 114. To the arms 1 3 ail-.1113 1S y secured the member 115 The member 116 is pivoted upon the member 115 and 'adjustably se.

cured to the arm 1 13.

Fig. 15, Sheet 3, shows the pattern former The reel; 6, shows the pattern former for-a notch collar for furs (mens shape).

To the arms 109 109 and 109 is adjustably secured the member 110. To

one side of the member 1171's adjustably secured the member 118, and to the other member 121, the members 118 and 121 being extensible laterally from the member 117 upon the graduated arms 11? and 117 A further adjustable connection between members 1 17 and 1 18 is furnished by the members 119, and 120 which are respectively pivoted to the top and bottom of. member 117 and are movably studded to the arms of member 117, by the member 122 which adjust-ably joins the top of member 121 to the arm 117 of member 117. The member 123 adjustably connects the lower end of member 121 to the arm 117 ,01 member 117.

118. In like manner the member 121 is ad justably secured to the other side of. member Fig. 16,Sheet 6, shows the patterniormer for front attachment or entirely loose coat. The member 124 is furnished with the graduated arm-124 and is adjustably secured to the graduated member .125. This pattern former is laid to members 22, 23 and 24, Fig. 1, the top of member 125 coinciding with the top of member 24, and the lower end of member 124 coinciding with the lower end of member 22. waist line, and must be coincident with members 19 and 18, Fig. 1.

Fig. 17, Sheet 6, shows the pattern former for back attachment for entirely loose coat. The member 126 is furnished with the gratin-- 'ated arm 126 and is 'adjustably secured to each other, the degree of adjustment being determined by the graduated arm 129 ,which is adjustably secured'to the arm 128 of the member 128. The members 130 and 131, and 132 and'133, laterally extensible from Member 124 represents the i each other represent respectively the upper and lower edge of the notch collar.

Fig. 19, Sheet 4, shows the pattern former. for a neck attachment for walsts.

The upper angle of thehead 134 .01? the slotted and graduated member 134 islitted upon the pattern line laid out by the upper meeting edges.

' of members-4 and 10, Fig 1, the leltQhand' edge of member 185, Fig. 19 connecting withthe curve of the left-hand edge o1 mei'nber 3, Fig. 1. g

Fig. 20; Sheet 3, shows the pattern former fora choker forwaists, the members 136 and er: nsible upon each other as in the case ofFi 18 b T means the adjustably connected arms 136 and 137 together with the members 138, 139, 140 and 141, which latterfour, members, paired in the laterally adjustable upon the me order named and likewise adjustably connected, represent the upper and lower edges of the choker; i

Fig. 21', Sheet 4, shows the'pattern former for the shoulder back attachment. The left: hand edge of member 142 is fitted to the leftband edge of members 42 and 46, Fig. 4, and the-upper edge of member 143 to the upper edges-of members 45 and 42 Fig.4.

What I claim as my invention and desire to secure by Letters Patent is: I

1. A coat-front pattern former, consisting of the members 1,1 and 1 for laying out the front line, the doubly graduated member 1 and-the member 4 with it's-notched arm 4 adjustable to both sets of graduations upon the member 1 for securing a tight-fitting, a three-quarter tight, a half loose or loose adustment at the neck, the plate members 6 and 7 laterally adjustable upon each other for. bust measure, the members 8 and 27 adustable relatively to each other and to the plate member 7, for laying out the arm-hole,

the members 9 and 1.0 adjustable upon each other and upon the member 8, for laying out the shoulder seam, the members 2'4, 23Jand 18 vertically adjustable upon each other and 'mber 27. for laying out the rear line of the coatdront, the members 13, 14, 17 and 18 connected in pairs, laterally adjustable for waist and hip measures and vertically adjustable upon the members{ 1 6, 11, 12 and 23 for length measure, the members and 21 pivoted upon the members 14 and i? and forming in connection with members 11 and 12, the means forlaying out the side dart, the member 26 adjustably connecting the two lower section's-of the pattern former for hip measure, and the member 22 pivoted at its upper end upon the member 18 and adjustable at its lower end upon said member, for modification of the rear line of the coat front pattern, substantially as described.

.2; Inacoat front pattern former, means for securing atight fitting, three-quarter tight, half loose or loose adjustment, said means consisting of the doubly graduated member 1 and the adjustable member 4 with its notched arm 4 adj ustable to both sets of graduations upon the member 1 substantially as described.

An under-arm piece pattern 'i'ormer, comprising the vertical members 28 and 29, laterally adjustable [or bust and waist measure, the member 30 vertically 'i'idj'ustz'i-ble thereon for the under-arm length, the mem-.

4. i A side-gore pattern former, comprising the members 37 and 34- laterally adj ustable for bust measurc,-the mei'nbers 35 and 36 superimposed upon the member 34 and lat- ,erally adjustable thereon to increase the curve thereof, upon the members 37 and 34 for t 10 sidegore length, the members 38 and-39 vertically adjustable upon the members 37' and 34 for length measure, the member 38 being promembers 37 and 39 adm'itting'lateral adjustment for waist and hip measure, and the member 40 pivot-ally and adjustably secured to the member 3P l'or addition of plait to the side-gore pattern, substantially as described. 5. A back-piece pattern former, co prising the members 42 and 43 laterally djuste able for width of back, the member 46, 46 adjustable upon the member 42 for narrow chest and wide back, the member 47, 47 ver ticallyadjustable upon the members 43 and for length and allowing lateral adjustment of the member 45 for waist measure, and the members 48 and '49 pivotally secured upon the members 47 adjustable thereon for length mcasureand laterally adjustable relatively to each other for hip measure, substantia l as described. 6. A pattern former for semi-t tting, consisting of the members 50, 51, 52, 53 and 54 adjustably connected. and adapted to increase the widths of the under-arm piece pattern former, substantially as described.

7. A pattern former for semi-fitting, con- ;sisting of the members 55, 56, 57, 58 and 59 adj ustably connected and adapted to increase the widths of the back-piece pattern former, substantially as described.

8. A single dart pattern former, comprising the member 81 adjustably connected to the graduated member 86, and the member 82 adjustab'ly connected to the graduated member 87, the members 86 and 87 being graduated member 85, the member 84 "forming an adjustable connection between the lower ends of members Sland 82, and the member 83 with its rross-heads 85 and 83 constituting a means whereby the paired members 81 and may be laterally adjusted relatively to the paired members 82 and 87, substantially as described.

9. A double dart pattern former, comprising' the members 88 and 89, QOand 91, 92 and s3, and 94 and 95, the members of each pair being adjustably connected and the members 89 and 95 being graduated, the member 99 furnished with two independent'graduated slots wherein the heads of the upper members o'l' each pair are adjustably mounted, the members 97 and J8 adjustably connectiug the lower ends of members 88 aud'QO and i otmcmbiwrs 92 and 04 respectively, and the the member 41 adjustable vided with armsadjustablyconnected to and 45 and vertically frame member 96 Whereon said paired members are mounted for lateral adjustment, substantially as described.

10. A revers, pattern former, comprising the member 100 furnished With the slotted head 100 and the slotted arm 100 the member 1-02 adjustably secured to said head and arm, and the slotted member 101 adjustably secured to said head,- substantially as described.

11. A notch collar pattern former, comprising the members 103 and 104, and means for adjusting said members relatively to each other, said means consisting of the adjustable connected members 103 104 105, 10G, 10'? and 10S, substantially as described.

12. A pattern former, comprising frames composed of adjustably connected members for laying out the patterns for the front, the under-arm piece, the side-body, the back piece, the sleeves, the collar, and the revers, with frames for semi-fittings and for single and double darts, the members of said frames being so correspondinglygraduated that in laying out patterns for stock work, the members may be adjusted to the same numbered graduation as that at which the members for the bust measure are initially set, substantially as 'described' MOSES DUBINSKY.

JJ'itnesses DAVID DUBINsKY,

PAUL HUSIK.

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