US600050A

US600050A - tucek

Info

Publication number: US600050A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1898-03-01
Anticipated expiration: 1915-03-01

Description

(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 1.

M. TUGEK.

v GARMENT DRAFTING PATTERN.

N0. 600,050. Patented Mar. 1,1898.

ITNESSES: 0/?

M ATTORNEYS.

m: Nonms PETERS no. m'muwo wAsumomN, 0. c4

(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

M.TU0EK. GARMENT DRAFTING PATTERN.

No. 600,050. Patented Mar. 1,1898.

INVENTOR I A TTORNE Y8.

UNITED STATES I MARIE TUOEK, or

PATENT OFFICE.

NEW YORK, N. Y.

GARMENT-DRAFTING PATTERN.

SPECIFICATION formingpart of Letters Patent No. 600,050, dated March 1, 1898.

Application filed March 24, 1897.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, MARIE TUOEK, of the city, county, and State of New York, have invented a new and Improved Garment-Drafting Pattern, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description. The object of the invention is to provide a new and improved garment-draftin g pattern more especially designed for conveniently, quickly, and accurately drafting the outlines for ladies seamless waists and skirts having but a single seam in the body.

The invention consists principally of a waistpattern provided with an angular base, a waist-arm held adjustably thereon and pivotally connected with a slide held adjustably on the base, and a front arm held adjust-ably on the said slide, an arm-scye having two adj ustable members, of which one is adjustable on the said slide and is connected by links with the said front arm, the other scye member being connected with the shoulder-measuring device connected with the back arm held adj ustably on the base.

The invention also consists of certain parts and details and combinations of the same, as will be fully described hereinafter and then pointed out in the claims.

Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification, in which similar characters of reference indicate corresponding parts in all the figures.

Figure l is a plan View of the pattern for the waist. Fig. 2 is a similar view of the pattern for the skirt. Fig 3 is a like view of the pattern for the sleeve. Fig. 4 is an enlarged plan View of part of the same. Fig. 5 is a transverse section of the same on the line 5 5 of Fig. 4E, and Fig. 6 is a plan view of the blanks for the waist and skirt out according to the pattern.

The improved garment-drafting pattern is provided with a pattern for drafting ladies waists, and this pattern, as shown in Fig. 1, is provided with an angular base A, formed with two parallel slots A and A and with graduations in centimeters along the edges of the said slots, the graduations indicating the size of the ladys Waist, and a third slot A is likewise formed on the base A at an angle to the parallel slots A A. In the slot A is held adjustably a clamping-screw B, en-

Serial No. 629,045. (No model.)

gaging a lug O .on the curved waist-arm O, on the outer edge of which is drawn the outline for the waist proper. The free end of the arm 0 is pivotally connected at C with a slide D, preferably made U-shaped, with the two side members D D extending outwardly and with the member D reaching over the base A. The outer member D'is provided with a graduation D in centimeters and indicating the front measurement from the neck to the waist. On this member D is held a clamping-screw E, extending through a slot F, formed in the front arm F and held slidably on the member D to indicate at its lower edge on the graduation D the size of the ladys waist. The parallel movement of this arm F is obtained on the member D by a pin E, held on the outer end of the member D" and engaging the slot F. The extreme outer end of the'arm F is formed with a curved offset F for drafting the front portion of the neck, and the outer end of this offset is pivotally connected with a link H, having a slot 11, engaged by a clamping screw H and by a fixed pin H both held on a link H pivotally connected with the member I of the scye-pattern I. The member I isprovided with a slot 1 engaged with a clamping-screw 1 also engaging a slot I in the other member I of the said pattern 'I. An arm 1 extends rigidly from the scye member I and is provided with a slot 1 engaged by a clamping-screw J, held adj ustably in the slot A previouslymentioned, and provided with a guiding-sleeve J, held on the outer end of the member D of the slide D. The member D is provided at its end with a pin D engaging the angular slot A in the base, so that when the slide is shifted sidewise the member D moves laterally, owing to the pin D traveling in the slot A a The member I is provided with graduation corresponding to the graduation D and set at the clamping-screw J to the same number as that indicated by the lower end of the arm F on the graduation D The upper end of the member I of the scyepattern I is pivotally connected at Kwith a T-shaped arm K of the shoulder-measuring device K, and the member K of the said arm K is provided with a graduation in centimeters to indicate the shoulder measurement at the back of the person to whom the garment is to be fitted. A clamping-screw L and a pin L are held on the arm K and engage a slot K in a member K projecting at right angles from the back arm K formed with a slot K engaged by a clamping-screw N and a pin N, both held on the angular offset A of the base A. The latter is provided on the offset A with a graduation A in centimeters and on which registers the lower edge of the arm K to indicate the length of the back from the neck to the waist.

The arm K is pivotally connected at its extreme outer end by a link K with a V-shaped bar K having slots, of which one is engaged by a pin 0 on the link K and by a clampingscrew 0 and slot 0 with a link K on the T- shaped arm K This link K is provided with a graduation similar to the grad nation on the member K to indicate the shoulder-to-shoulder measure or the width of the back of the garment. v

Now in using this device the scye clampingscrews are loosened and the waist measure of the person is first taken in centimeters. The clamping-screw Bis then shifted in the slot A to the corresponding number on the graduation along this slot. The clamping-screw J is similarly moved along the slot A to the same number. The next measurement taken on the person is the front measure from the neck to the waist, and this is indicated on the graduation D by the lower edge of the arm F,shifted laterally on the member D and then fastened in place by the clamping-screw E. The back measurement for the length of the garment at the back is then taken and the arm K is shifted to indicate with its lower edge on the corresponding number on the graduation A The clamping-screw N is then fastened and the measurement from shoulder to shoulder to give the width of the garment is then taken, and the arms K and K are adjusted to indicate the corresponding number on the graduations of the member K and the arm K Now it will be seen that by the arrangement described and by the shifting of the arms referred to the remaining arms adjust themselves automatically, and when the measurements have been taken the several clamping-screws are all fastened and the pattern is placed on the doubled-up material with the outer edge of the arm K along the doubled-up edge of the material. The outline for the blank of the waist is now drawn along the outer edges of the arms, links, 850., and the material is then cut accordingly to form the blank P, as shown in Fig. 6.

The pattern for the skirt is illustrated in Fig. 2 and is provided with a series of arms Q, R, S, T, U, V, and W. The arm Q is provided with an angular member Q, having a graduation in centimeters indicating the waist measure, and in the arm is formed a slot Q engaged by a clamping-screw R, held on the adjacent arm R. A second member Q extends angularly from the arm Qand is provided with a graduation also indicating the waist measure, and on this member is held a clamping-screw Q engaging the slotted link Q having a graduation indicating in yards the length of the lower edge or bottom of the skirt. The link Q is adjusted so that the corresponding number of its graduation registers with the number of the waist measure that is to say, it the waist measure is sixty centimeters and the bottom edge of the skirt is to be eight yards the link Q is adjusted on the member Q until the numeral 8 registers with the numeral on the member Q it being understood that the arm R is adjusted by the clamping-screw R on the member Q of the arm Q to likewise read 6O on the graduation of the said member Q. The link Q is pivotally connected with the arm R and R so that by adjusting the said link Q on the member Q the arm R is correspondingly adjusted relative to the arm Q. The next arm S is similarly arranged to the arm R and similarly adjusted relative thereto, and the same holds true relative to the remaining arms, as they are correspondingly adjusted. The arm R is for this purpose provided with the members R and R, of which the member R is engaged at its slot by a clamping-screw S to adjust the arm S on the graduation of the arm R to the waist measurement 60, as above given. On the member R is held a clam pingscrew R engaging the slotted link R", pivoted at S on the arm S and having a graduation in yards to be adjusted on the graduation in centimeters on the member R --that is, 8 and 60 as above mentioned relative to the link Q and member Q The arm S has its member S connected by the clampingscrew T with the arm T, and the member S is provided with a clamping-screw S engaged by a link S, pivotally connected at T with the arm T. The graduation on the link S and the members 8 S is the same as above described relative to the link Q and members Q Q of the arm Q. The arm T is in turn provided with the member T adj ustably connected with the arm U by the clamping-screw U, and on the member '1 of the said arm T is arranged a clamping-screw T engaging IIO the graduated link T", pivotally connected at U with the arm U. The latter is connected at its member U by the clamping-screw V with the arm V, and the arm U is provided with a clamping-screw U engaging the graduated link U pivotally connected at V with the arm V. On the members V and V of the arm V are held adjustably the angular projections of the arm V by means of clamping-screws W and W and this arm W, with the arm V, is adjusted according to the length indicated for the plaits of the skirt. Now when the several arms are uniformly adjusted, as above described, according to the waist measure and the bottom edge of the skirt the operator places the pattern upon the doubled-up material and draws lines along the edges of the arms Q, S, T, U, and W to a distance corresponding to the length of the skirt from the waist to the bottom. I

The arms S, T, and U are preferably made angular, so as to give two or more sets of lines for wide and narrow skirts.

The outer points thus formed are united with each other by a curved line, as indicated in Fig. 6, the waist-line being drawn along the members Q, B S T and U of the several arms and sufficiently rounded to properly connect with the waist-line of the blank P, as indicated in the said Fig. 6.

The portion P on the pattern P indicates the plaits to be formed by the extra length of material given along the arms V and W, as previously mentioned.

The pattern for the sleeve is illustrated in Fig. 3 and is provided with a series of arms X, Y, and Z, of which the arm X is made in two parts, X and X held adjustably one on the other by providing the arm X with a slot engaged by a clamping-screw X carried on the other part X. A graduation X in centimeters is arranged on the part X and on it indicates the upper end of the part X according to the length of the sleeve as measured on the person. The arm Y is similarly construct edthat is, made in two parts Y and Y held adjustably one on the other, and adapted to be fastened one on the other by a clampingscrew Y the part Y beingprovided with a graduation Y on which indicates the upper end of the part Y .The arm Z is made with the parts Z and Z adjustable one on the other and adapted to be fastened together by a clamping-screw Z and the part Z is provided with a graduation Z on which indicates the upper end of the part Z On the lower end of the part X of the arm X is held adj ustably an extension X adapted to be fastened in place bya clam ping-screw X and the upper end of the arm X is provided with a fixed extension X extending laterally to adj ustably connect with the upper end Z of the part Z of the arm Z. A clamping-screw X serves to fasten the ends X and Z one to the other, and similar connection is made between the arm Y and the arm Z-that is, the part Y of the arm Y is provided with the an gular curved end Y held adjustably on the extension Z of the part Z, a clamping-screw Z serving to fasten the two ends together. On the lower endsof the parts Y and Z are held adjustably the L-shaped arms Y and Y one on the other, with the arm Y pivotally connected by a link Y with the extension X. A clamping-screw Y serves to fasten the angular arm Y to the part Y and a set-screw Y serves to fasten the arms Y and Y one on the other, and the set-screw Y is used for securing the arm Y to the part Z Now it will be seen that by the arrangement described either of the arms X or Y can be laterally adjusted relative to the arm Z, and each of the arms can be lengthwise adjusted rela- Y are used for drafting the inner parts of the sleeve.

Having thus fully described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent- 1. A garment-drafting pattern, provided with a waist-pattern comprising an angular base, a slide held adj ustably on said base, a waist-arm having sliding engagement with the base and pivotally connected with said slide, a front arm held adjustably on the said slide, a back arm held adj ustably on the base, and an arm-scye having two adj ustably-connected members, of which one is adjustable on the slide and is connected by links with the said front arm, the other scye member being connected with the said back arm, substantially as described.

2. A garment drafting pattern provided with a waist-pattern comprising an angular base provided with parallel slots and a slot arranged obliquely to the parallel slots, a slide heldadjustably on the said base and having a pin engaging the said oblique slot, and a clamping-screw engaging one of the parallel slots, a waist-arm pivotally connected with the said slide and adjustably connected by a clamping-screw with the base in the other parallel slot, a front arm held adjustably on the said slide, aback arm held adjustably on the said base, a scye-drafting device made in ad justably-connected members, of which one is held adjustably on the said slide, self-a'djust ing links for connecting the said device with the front arm, and an adjustable shoulderdrafting device connecting the scye-draftingdevice with the said back arm, substantially as shown and described.

3. A garment drafting patternv provided with a skirt-pattern comprising a series of arms, each having members extending therefrom, one arm being held adj ustably with one of its members on the corresponding member of the adjacent arm, and a link for adj ustably connecting the other member of each arm with the adjacent arm, substantially as shown and described.

4. A garment drafting pattern provided with a skirt-pattern comprising a series of arms, each having members extending therefrom, one arm being held adj ustably with one of its members on the corresponding member of the adjacent arm, a link for adj ustably connecting the other member of each arm with the adjacent arm, and plait-arms held adj ustably on the outer arm of the said series of arms to draw the necessary amount of material for the desired plaits, substantially as shown and described.

5. A garment-drafting pattern, provided with a skirt-pattern consisting of a series of sections each of which has a longitudinal centralmemberand two transverse substantially parallel members extending from said central member on the same side thereof, the upper and lower transverse members of each section being adjustably connected with the corresponding members of the adjacent sections and forming segmental top and bottom lines in a direction corresponding to the circumference or width of the skirt, while the central members of said sections normally radi- MARIE TUOEK.

lVitnesses:

THEO G. HOSTER, JNo. M. BITTER.