US556856A

US556856A - Annie livingston

Info

Publication number: US556856A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1896-03-24
Anticipated expiration: 1913-03-24

Description

{No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 I A. LIVINGSTON.

ADJUSTABLE GARMENT PATTERN. No. 556,856. Patented Mar. 24, 1896.

FIGIZ.

Q INVENTOR: WITNESSES: W z/flmywfwm flttorney.

ANDREW E GRAKAM PHCTO'U'TNDAVASNKNGTONDC,

(No Model.) I s Sheets--Sheet 2.

A. LIVlNGSTON.

ADJUSTABLE GARMENT PATTERN. No. 556,856. Patented Mar. 24, 1896.

F! G1 I INVENTOR:

I W Z .WITNESSES-z fQi W 5%; 7 491% Attorney.

(No Model.) 3 Sl1ee5s-Sheet 3, A. LIVINGSTON.

, ADJUSTABLE GARMENT PATTERN. No. 556,856. Patented Mar. 24, 1595.

WITNESSES: v W W 3,,

' fitter-Rey.

ANNIE LIVINGSTON, OF NEW YORK, N.

PATENT FFICEQ ADJUSTABLE GARMENT-PATTERN.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 556,856, dated March 24, 1896.

A li tion fil d November 8, 1895. Serial No- 568,3l5. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, ANNIE LIVINGSTON, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of the city, county, and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Adjustable Garment-Patterns, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to a part pattern of the class wherein plates are mounted to slide on each other for purposes of adjustment, the plates having proper contours to guide the pencil or marker and being provided with suitable scales.

The invent-ion will be fully described hereinafter with reference to the accompanying drawings, and its novel features will be carefully defined in the claims.

In the drawings referred to, Figure 1 represents the pattern for the front body, set for cutting a French waist or basque and Fig. 1 represents the same pattern as set to cut a Princess waist or basque. In this latter figure the smaller movable parts are represented detached in order to better illustrate their form and construction. Fig. 2 represents the pattern for the under-arm piece. Fig. 3 represents the pattern for the side body. Fig. 4 represents the pattern for the back body. Fig. 5 represents a pattern for an extra piece for use where the waist-measure is abnormally large. Figs. 6 and 7 represent patterns for use in cutting out the sleeve. These are drawn to a larger scale than the other figures. Fig. 8 represents a designing-scale used with the patterns.

The pattern is constructed of some thin and comparatively stiif sheet material-such as cardboard, for example.

The pattern for the front body (seen in Figs. 1 and 1) comprises a main plate A, cut at its lower edge to form the darts a and a. In order to adapt the pattern to two styles of cutnamely, the French style and the Princess style the back portion A of the front body is pivotally connected at a to the plate A and has a pin a which plays in a curved guideslot a Fig. l, in the plate A. The plate A is turned about the pivot a to the position seen in Fig. l to cut one style of dress and to the position seen in Fig. 1 to out another style. This construction, which is best seen in Fig. 1, is independent of size or measure and adapts the pattern. to two styles of cut.

The adjustment of the front body for length of waist is effected by means of adjustable plates A A A and A The first two plates are mounted to slide on the plate A, studs a 0n the respective plates A and A engaging guide-slots in the plate A, and similar studs a in the plate A engaging guide-slots in the respective plates A and A Each stud has a washer, as o and the studs clamp the plates together in such a manner as to produce friction sufficient to prevent the too easy disturbance of the adjustment when the plates shall have been adjusted or set to measure. I have thus particularly described the slots and studs used to connect together the plates and the slots for adjustment, and I will say that the same stud-and-slot device is employed throughout the several parts of the pattern and will not need further minute description. I need only say that the use of two studs play ing respectively in two parallel slots prevents the lateral play of the plates and keeps them aligned.

The plate A is mounted to slide on the plate A, and the plate A is mounted to slide on a plate A, which is mounted to slide later-.

ally on the plate A for increasing the width according to the waist and bust measures. The scales on plates A, A, and A serve for setting the respective sliding plates A A A and A to the length-of-waist measure. The scale to on plate A serves to adjust or set plate A to the bustmeasure, and plate A is set to the measure about the waist on the scale 20 on plate A.

The plate A is pivotally connected to the plate A by a stud a in plate A, which engages a transverse slot A in plate A, as clearly shown.

The plate A is mounted to slide on the plate A and forms an upper part or extension thereof. This plate has a curve 5 at its front edge for the neck-pattern and a curve 3 at the rear edge, Fig. 1 to serve as a pattern for the armhole-curve. The bust-measure is set on the scale a on plate A Plate A", which is of an L shape with a curved lower part serves to give the form about the armhole and shoulder. This plate slides on the plate A and the bust-measure is set on a scale 1; on plate A The under-arm piece (seen in Fig. 2) consists of four plates, 13, B B, and B The plate B is' mounted to slide on the plate B for increasing its length and the plate B is mounted to slide on the plate B for increasing its length. The length-of-waist measure is set on the scales .r on the respective plates 13 and B. The bust-measure is set on the scale on plate B and the measure about the waist is set on the scale q 011 plate B After sliding plate B out over the scale r to the proper extent the plate B carrying plate B is swung out over the scale q to the proper extent and held in that position, as there is no stud and slot connecting the plates B and B The plate B swings about the stud b in the oblique slot I) as a pivot.

In case the measure about the waist is excessive that is, exceeds twenty-six inchesthe extra under-arm pattern (seen in Fig. is employed. This pattern is very similar to the pattern in Fig. 2, but the graduations on the scales r begin with 36 and those on scale q begin with 27.

The side-body pattern of Fig. 3 is constructed similar to the under-arm piece, except as to contour. It comprises four plates, 0, O, O, and C The plates C and C slide respectively on the plates 0 and O and are set to the length-of-waist measure on the scales m on the respective plates 0 and C. The measure of the bust is set on the scale 19 on plate 0 by sliding the plate 0 over said scale. The plate 0 has a stud c engaging an oblique slot 0 in plate O and the plates turn about stud c as a pivot. The measure of the waist is set on the scale 0 on the plate O The oblique slots Z) in Fig. 2, c in Fig. 3, and that in the upper part of the extra underarm pattern seen in Fig. 5, are parallel with the sloping upper ends of the respective patterns, and their common function is to keep the sloped or beveled upper ends of the respective overlapping plates aligned when the plates are adjusted to widen or narrow the pattern.

The back-body pattern of Fig. 4 comprises the main plate D, on which slides the extension-plate D by means of slots and studs similar to those explained with reference to the patterns before described, the measure of the length of waist being set on the scale '21 on plate D. The lateral width of the pattern above the waist-line is varied by means of a plate D, which is pivoted to plate D at cl and slides on said plate D, a stud d in plate D engaging a curved slot in plate D. The bust-measure is set on a scale on along said slot. The shape and length of the shoulder portion is governed by the L-shaped branch (I on the upper part of the plate D.

The patterns described serve to cut out all of the dress-waist except the sleeve, and the two patterns illustrated in Figs. 6 and 7 will serve for this latter purpose. Fig. 6 is the pattern for the under part of the sleeve and Fig. 7 that for the upper part. Both of these are simple integral patterns cut from some thin sheet material, the same as the body patterns. The measures of the arm are applied as follows: The pattern E, for ex ample, is laid on a sheet of paper and the measure from shoulder to elbow set off on scale e, and that from hand to elbow set off on scale e A line is drawn on the paper between the points on the said scales along the convex edge of the pattern E. Vithout removing the pattern the hand-measure is marked on scale e, the lower arm-measure is marked on scale 6 and the upper-arm measure is marked on scale 6 The last two measures maybe marked through slots in the pattern at the respective scales. The pattern is now pushed over the paper until the convex edge of the pattern coincides substantially with the measurements marked at scales e e 6 The inside of the arm from shoulder to elbow and from hand to elbow is marked on the respective scales 6 and c and a line drawn between these points along the concave edge of the pattern. The curve at the armhole is marked by the concave upper end, a, of the pattern by bringing its cups to the respective points marked on the scales and c.

The pattern F for the upper part of the sleeve will be used in precisely the same way as the pattern E, and the scales ff f, &c., marked on it correspond to and are used in the same manner as the corresponding scales 8 e 6, &c., on the pattern E.

Having thus described my invention, 1 claim- 1. A part pattern for the front body of a dress waist or basque, comprising a main plate A, having a front dart a, formed by a tapered slit in its lower edge, and a rear dart, a, one margin of which is formed by the material of the plate A the plate A, pivotally connected to the plate A at the upper end of the dart a, the edge of the plate A forming the rear side of said dart, the plate A, connected pivotally and adj ustably at its upper end to the upper end of the plate A, and lengthening plates connected to and sliding on the lower extremities of the respective plates A, A and A substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

2. A part pattern for the front body of a dress waist or basque, comprising the main plate A, the upper, extension-plate A connected to and sliding on the plate A, said plate A having tapered slits at its lower edge to form darts and the plate A having the neck-curve formed in its front edge and an armhole-curve in its rear edge, and the plate A connected to and sliding transversely of and on the extension-plate A said plate A having a curved portion which forms the pattern for the armhole, substantially as set forth.

3. In a part pattern for the back body of a dress Waist or basque, the combination with In Witness whereof I have hereunto signed the main plate D, of the curved plate D, the my name in the presence of two subscribing 10 two plates being pivotecl together at their witnesses. lower extremities, at c, the plate D having 7 v T T 5 a stud d at its upper part which engages a ANA IE GSTOI" curved slot m in the plate D, and an L-sha ped Witnesses: branch (1 substantially as and for the pur- HENRY GONNETT, poses set forth. JAs. KING DUFFY.