US748792A - Jane eobbert - Google Patents

Description

1:0. 748,792. 7 PATENTED JAN. 5,1904.

' J. ROBBBRT,

APBLIANGE FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

APPLICATION FILED DBO. 31, 1900.

2 SEBETB-SHBBT 1.

no M01221 m: mums PEYERS co. mom-m me; wnsmnurou, m c

PATENTBD JAN. 5, 1904.

J. ROBBERT. APPLIANCE FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

APPLIOATi0H FILED DEC. 31, 1900.

g SHEETS-81151512.

HOWHODEL.

QHHHHHHHH .MTP IIII ll llvlllliv lll'llll.

.1@ HI I I I HNHH HHH U 2 TNE "cams wzrzns m. PHOTO-LIYHKL: wsnmmm uLc.

UNIT D STATES- Patented January 5, 1904.

" PAT NT OFFICE.

APPLIANCE FOR- DRAFTING GARMENTS.

srncrrxcn'rron forming part of Letters Patent No 748,792, dated January 5, 1904. Application filed December 31, 1900. Serial No. 41.605- (No model.)

.To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, JANE ROBBERT, a citizen of the United States, residing in the city and county of San Francisco, State of California, have invented an Improvement in Appliances for Drafting Garments; and I hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the'same.

My invention relates to improvements in adjustable appliances for drafting garments,

' the same being particularly adapted for use in determining the proper contour of the various parts forming the body and skirt ofthe waist portions of ladies and childrens garments,such as jackets, coats, shirt-waists, or the like. This device is simple in construction and a more compact-device than those ordinarily in use, so that the number of parts necessary to cut the garment is less, and the widest possible range is given for the constant change both of the fashions and of the measurements of different individuals. the cutting of the popular so-called shirtwaist my device has certain valuable features which will be touched upon later.

My device consists of two pattern forms, each composed of suitable material, preferably of fiat metal strips peculiarly shaped and connected adjustable with each other anrl'which can be set in accordance with the measurements of difierent individuals. By one of theseappliances isdrafted the back and side body, as it is called, and also a second side-body piece, which is used, if desired, for stout persons, and the other appliance is for drafting the front and under-arm" piece of a garment. Each of these parts is cut in duplicate by the pattern, as is usual.

Myinvention is illustrated in the drawings, in which Figure 1 shows the back-piece of a garment cut by my devicewith the optional seam 2i shown in dotted lines. Fig. 2 represents the side-body piece. Fig. 3 illustrates the part of my device used in delineating the above-mentioned pieces and also the second side-body piece above referred to, and Fig. 4 shows the part of. my device used in 1 delineating the front and under-arm pieces of a garment. I

In order to have a clear understanding of the operation of'these appliances, it is neces- "sary first to describe the various parts, after ,are forchilds armhole measurements.

which I will illustrate by actual measure ments how these appliances are set.

' Having reference to the drawings, Fig. 3, A is the shoulder piece, of elongated form,

having an oblique slot 2 and a longitudinal slot 3. Near the edge 4 of this piece are graduations forshoulder measurements. The adjacent or neckedge 5 has neck graduations marked thereon. for indicating the size of the back of the neck, and near the middle of this shoulderpiece is a. second series of graduations 2, corresponding to the graduations at edge 5, which is used for indicating the slope of the shoulder. This shoulderpiece has a downwardly-extending slotted strip 16.

H is a bust-strip having bnstmeasure graduations thereon for indicating the width of the back. and side-body pieces across the shoulder. piece H to strip 16 and is movable in the slot thereof.

B is a back-piece having an oblique edge B. This back-piece is placed on piece A, so that its edge B is parallel with edge 4 and is adj ustably secured to piece A by a screw passing through slot 2 and piece B. This serves to connect pieces A and B, so that the latter may be shifted in an angular direction on pieceA, and its. edge B codperates simultaneously on corresponding points on scale 2 and the scale at edge 5. This adjustment determines thesize of the back of the neck and the slope of the shoulder. This back-piece tapers downwardly and has a longitudinal which are graduations '7 for the length of the back. A

O is an armhole-piece of segmental form and has a curved slot 8 in its center portion and has two series of graduations marked thereon, the outer series reading from the shoulder down in inches, and the inner series This piece 0 is adjustably secured to the shoulderpiece A by a set-screw passing through slot 3 and piece 0. D is a side-body piece slidably secured to piece 0 by a set-screw passing through its upper end and through slot 8. A supplementary piece 0, having a concavede'ii'ge 17, is located beneath the pieces 0 ahd D and is adjustably secured to said A rivet-pivot adjustably secures slot b parallel with its edge. 6,'at the side of pieces by the same set-screw which secures piece D to piece 0. This piece 0 is used in connection with the inner series of graduations on piece 0. The concaved edge 10 of this piece D is used to outline the'curved seams of the back and side-body pieces, and its edge 9 is used for outlining the seam from the waist to the shoulder. .Its edges 9 and 10 may determine in a point; 10 This point is used for positioning the edge 18 of piece G, which will be presently described.

E is'a side-body piece having a concaved edge and a convexed edge and has a longitudinal slot 11 parallel with its side edges. This piece is slidably secured to the armhole-piece G at the graduation 4 by setscrew E passing through its upper end and through slot 8. The position of this piece need not be changed for any ordinary garment.

E is an auxiliary side-body piece similarly curved as the piece E and located beneath the latter and is provided with a slotted extension e, by which it isadjustably secured with piece E to the armhole-piece O by set-screw E passing through the slot in said extension. This auxiliary piece is employed when it is desired to out a second side-body piece, and when not in use it is concealed beneath the piece E.

F is a waist-piece having a downward-flared extension F. This waist-piece has a horizontal slot 12 and has three series of graduations marked thereon, the upper series corresponding to the full waist measurement,and is used for indicating the width of the back and side-body pieces at the waist. The second series of graduations are adjacent to the lower edge of slot 12, and this scale is so arranged that its graduations indicate the sum of the width of the back and side-body pieces at the waist and which may be read opposite the desired waist-measure on the upper series and is for the purpose of ascertaining the size of the darts,which will be presently described. Below the second series of graduations on piece F is a third scale, which is employed when it is desired to have a second side-body piece. On the under side of the flared hippiece F at the waist is a sheath 15. (Shown in dotted lines in Fig. 3.) The lower portion of the auxiliary piece E is adjustably secured to piece F by its lower end passing through sheath 15 and is adjustable longitudinally in said sheath.

G is a flared (waist-line) piece and is used fol-outlining the flare to the skirt of the backpiece and also the flare to the back portion of the side-body piece. This piece G has a transverse slot 13, and on the under side of this piece is a sheath 14, which is parallel with slot 13 and extends from edge 18 to the outer longitudinal edge of piece G and is glued or soldered to piece G near-these edges, as shown in dotted lines, Fig. 3. The lower portion of the side-body piece D passes through said sheath. This connection adjustably secures piece D to piece G for longitudinal and lateral adjustments. The waistpiece F is placed crosswise of the pieces B, D, E, and E, and its slot 12 crosses slot 11 and 1) approximately at right angles, and a set-screw passing through slots 11 and 12 adjustably secures pieces F and E together. Piece G is placed so that its slot 13 is in alinement with slot 12 and a set-screw passing through slots 12, 13, and b and which serves to hold pieces B, F, and G in position for longitudinal and lateral adjustments and also clamps piece D, which slides in sheath 14 between pieces F and G. This connection also serves to hold pieces B, D, and G together for lateral adjustmentwith relation to pieces F and E. By a longitudinal adjustment of piece F in slots 11 and b sheaths 14 and 15 are adjusted longitudinally with piece F on pieces D and E and by a lateral adjustment of piece F with relation to piece G. The pieces B D E G and the extension F will resume their proper relative positions from which to outline the seams of the back and side-body pieces of the garment and the flare below the waist of said pieces in one adjusting operation.

With the parts thus described we are now ready to adjust the appliance, Fig. 3, for to outline those portions of the garment known as the back and side body pieces, as shown, respectively, in Figs. 1 and 2, we willassume the measurements of the individual for whom the garment is intended to be as follows: These following measures are given in inches: neck, thirteen; shoulder, five; armhole at the shoulder, thirteen; back, sixteen; under arm, beneath the arm to the waist, eight; bust, thirty-eight; waist, twenty-four, and front, from the back of the neck to the front of the waist-line, nineteen.

First, to set the back the back-piece B is moved in slot 2 on the shoulder-piece A, so that its edge B registers with neck graduations 13 at edge 5 and simultaneously to the corresponding graduation 13 on scale 2 and secured by set-screw in slot 2. The arm holepiece 0 is moved in slot 3 on piece A and set at graduation 5, shoulder-measure.

The bust-piece H is moved in a horizontal position to the graduation 4 on the armholepiece 0. The lower part of the armhole-piece O is moved laterally" on its pivot until its outer edge cooperates with the graduation 38 (bust-measure) on the piece H, and piece 0 is secured to piece A by the set-screw in slot 3. The waist-piece F is next shifted longitudinally in slots 1) and 11, and the piece G is carried longitudinally with piece F, and the upper edges of these pieces F and G are set to graduations 16, back-measure, on scale 7, and approximately at rightangles thereto. Then the piece F is shifted laterally, so that the graduation 24:, waist-measure, is read at the edge 18 of piece G. As before stated, by this longitudinal and lateral adjustment of piece Fthe pieces B D G Erma the extension F will resume the proper relative position from which to outline the seams of the back and side-body piecesof the garment and the flare below the waist of said pieces. The curve or relative width of these pieces can be varied, if desired, without changing the combined width. By moving the piece D laterally-in sheath 14 relatively to the pieces B and E by shifting the piece D upwardly on the armhole-piece O narrows the back and widens the side body, and a downward movement widens the back and narrows the side body. The lower portion of piece D, which slides longitudinally in sheath 14, makes it easy to perform this operation.

The back-piece proper is outlined as follows: the edge 4 of the shoulder-piece A, edge 6 of the piece B, and the outer and innor longitudinal edges of piece G, edge 10 of the piece D to the armhole from edge 10 along the armhole-piece O to shoulder. Then this appliance is shifted over on another part of the goods to outline the sidebody pieces and is outlined along the flaring edge of extension F and edge 50 of the piece E and from the top of edge 50 of piece E along the armhole-piece C to edge 10 of the piece D and edge 10 of the piece D from armhole to waist. Piece G is swung upon its pivot, so that the edge '18 thereof lies at its upper end in line with the side-body line just traced, and the lower inner edge 18 of piece G is positioned at the point 10 of piece D and is outlined on the edge 18, as shown in dotted lines in Fig. 2. When it is desired to have a seam from the shoulder to waist, as shown in dotted lines on Fig. 1, a seam can be outlined along the inner edge 9 of piece D.

Another advantage of my device is that it maybe more readily employed for cuttinggarments, such as these-called Eton jacket that is, a garment having the back and side body parts in one piece. This is done by simply folding the goods and placing the edge 6 of the back-piece B upon the fold and then outlining the neck, shoulder, armhole, and edge 50 of piece E. The double thickness of the material is then cut at one operation, and thereby forming the back and side-body sections in one piece. This same principle applies to the making of shirt-waists or other garments.

- For drafting some styles of childrens garments I employ the supplementary armholepiece 0, which is moved along slot 8, and its concaved edge at piece 0 is set at childs armholemeasure onpiece 0. Then it is swung outwardly on its pivot. Its lower edge rests against the screw E and the side-body piece E is moved in slot 8, so that its edge 50 lies in line with the straight edge of the piece 0. The parts thus set give the propel-curve to the armhole and the side-body piece E, so that the seam traced along the edge 50 comes farther under the arm. When-the piece 0 is not in use, as when the device is being employed for drafting an adults garment, the

same is thrown back out of the way beneath the side-body piece D.

The manner of using the auxiliary sidebody piece E for an unusually large person may be thus explained: The back and sidebodypieces are set and outlined, as before described, in cutting any ordinary back and.

second side-body piece will now be obtained by moving the side-body piece E inwardly along the slot 12" on piece F and setting the outer edge 50 of side-body piece E to the desired waist-measure on the lower series of graduations, and its, extension 6 is moved .down on piece 0 with relation to the edge 50 of piece E and outlined around the inner edge 55 of piece E and also down edge 56, following from beyond the waist-line to the edge,

then the edge 57 of piece E and the flaring hip edge of the piece F.

Having reference to Fig. 4, J is a front piece having front measure graduations marked on its lower portion, and at its upper end it forms a broadened extension J in which are parallel longitudinal slots 23. Ad

jacent to these slots are graduations for armhole measurement, and an oblique guide-line 28 is marked on the upper part of this extension. 1 K is a front shoulder-piece having an elongated narrow extension with a longitudinal slot 29 therein. Near the edge 24 of this piece are gradu'ations' for shonldermeasurements, and its edge 25 is concaved and meets the edge 24 to form the curve of the neck and the shoulder-seam. Near the edge 25 is a curved slot 26. downwardly and has an oblique slot 27 in its lower portion. At the edge of said slot are graduations for neck measurements. This piece K is placed on the extension J so that the slot 27 is in alinernent with guide-line 28 on said extension and is adjustably secured to said extension by set-screw passing through the extension J and slot 27, said screw being also. used for registering neck graduations adjacent to slot 27. By means of this construction and guide line 28 and neck graduations at slot 2? Iain enabled to position pieces K and K and L laterally with relation to piece J in a singleoperation for outlining the curve for the side of the neck, and the slope of the shoulder K is a neck-piece having a slot 43 and is adjustably secured beneath the concaved top portion of piece J by set-screw passing through the latter piece and through slot 4L3. By the side of slot 43 are graduations for neck measurements. The upper edge 42'of this piece is concaved and is pivoted near the edge 42 through slot 26 in piece, as shown in Fig. 4.

L is an armhole-piece of curvilinear form which serves to give the outline of the arm- This shoulder-piece extends hole and is adjustably secured to piece K by set-screw passing through the upper end of piece L and slot 29. The lower part of this piece is free and may be swung on its pivotscrew at any angle to the shoulder and to the edge 35 of piece 0, which will be described later on.

M is a plate having an oblique edge and a slot 30 parallel with said edge. Above this edge is a concaved edge M for childs armhole curve. This plate Mis adjustably mounted on extension J said plate having setscrews for engaging these slots 23 and adjustably securing said parts together. Its straight upper edge is used for registering the neck graduations adjacent to slots 23 for positioning the dart device and piece 0, which is connected to plate M (which will be presently described) for determining the length of the armhole and the height of the bust and darts.

N and N are dart-strips oppositely curved, each havinglongitudinalslots3l. These dartstrips are adjustably secured to plate M by a set-screw passing through their upper ends and through slot 30.

N is a slotted waist-piece'provided with graduations for indicating the width of the darts at waist.

N and N are extension-strips, in which are longitudinal slots 32. The piece N is placed crosswise of the dart-strips, and an extension-strip is adj ustably secured to each of the dart-strips and to the waist-piece bya set-screw passing through the upper end of each of said extensions and through the slot in piece N and through the slots in the dartstrips, as shown in Fig. 4. The lower end of said extension each have a set-screw through their slots and which passes through slot 33 in the connecting member j and which-adjustably secures them separately to the piece j, which will be presently described. By this connection the waist-piece is capable of carrying the extension-strips longitudinally in respect to the dartstrips, and the inner dart-strip and its extension-strip may be adjusted together laterally. By these longitudinal and lateral adjustments I obtain the length and width of the dart at waist and position the extension-strips for extending the darts below the waist. n is a needle with a longitudinal slot in the center portion and is adjustably secured to the waist-piece N by a set-screw passing through the slot in the needle and through the slot in waist-piece and is set perpendicular to the piece N by theindices in the latter piece. The points of the needle indicate by their direction where to position the top of the dart-strips and the bottom of the extension-strips.

O is an under-arm piece having a lateral extension 0. Its upper edge 35 is concaved and has a lateral slot 34. Adjacent to this slot are two series of bust graduations, the upper series being used for indicating the width of the front piece across the bust and the lower series being used for indicating the width of the bust of the front and under arm in one piece. The figures of the lower series corresponding to the figures of the upper series are much farther back than those of the upper series, so that for the same bustmeasure the under-arm piece 0 will be drawn out much farther when it is desired to cut the front and under-arm portion of a garment in one piece. This under-arm piece 0 is adjustably secured to plate M by a setscrew passing through slot 34 and plate M. Piece 0 extends downwardly and forms on its lower end a lateral extension 0. Edge 58 of this piece 0 is slightly concaved and has under-arm measurements marked thereon. Parallel with its edge 58 is a longitudinal slot 38, and its extension 0 has a lateral slot 37 and has bust graduations adjacent to said slot corresponding to the upper series of bust graduations on the extension 0, and it has also an auxiliary set of gradnations on said extension forindicating the width of the front at the waist and may be read opposite the desired bust-measure.

j is a rectangular connecting member in which is a longitudinal slot in one portion and a horizontal slot 33 in the other portion. The horizontal portion of piecej overlaps the extension 0, and aset-screw passing through the slot 37 and piecej adjustably secures the said pieces together for lateral adjustments. The other end of this piecej is secured to the lower end of the front piece J by a set-screw passing through slot 60 and piece J. By means of this construction and the bust graduations on the extension 0, corresponding to the bust graduations on the upper extension 0-, I am able to square my system, as it is called, for the purpose of giving the surplus amount which is to be taken out in darts.

O is a second under-arm piece having a rectangular extension 0 on its upper end, in which is a slot 47. This under-arm piece 0 is adjustably secured beneath and to the under-arm piece 0 by a pivotrivet passing through the piece 0 and through slot 47. The latter extension has bust graduations marked thereon corresponding to those on the extension 0 of piece 0. Piece 0 extends downwardly and hasa longitudinal slot 51 parallel with its edge 49. A- short segmental strip Q is riveted to a short strip Q, the latter having a longitudinal slot 53 therein and is adjustably secured to piece 0 by rivet 54, passing through slot 53 and piece 0. This connection permits the pieces Q and Q to be shifted above and below the upper end of piece 0 for extending the back part of the armhole piece the same length from the waist to the armhole as piece E. Fig. 3 is from the waist to the armhole, and pieces Q and Q are also capable of lateral adjustment with respect to the pieces 0 and O.

P is a flared hip-piece having a lateral extension p. This extension has a lateral slot 39 therein. Adjacent to the edge of this slot is a series of hustgraduations corresponding to those on the extension 0 and also an anxiliary set of graduatio n's'are marked on said extension. PiecefP is adj ustably secured to piece 0 by rivet passing through slot 51 and piece P, and the extension p crosses the under-arm piece 0, and a flared hip-piece P is adjustably secured to the extension 13 and to the piece 0 by a set-screw passing through piece P and slots 38 and 39. By this connection the pieces P and P may be shifted together longitudinally in the slots 38 and 51, and the hip-piece P and the piece 0. may be adjusted togetherv laterally with relation to the piece 0. By this longitudinal and lateral adjustment I obtained the length of the front and the under-arm pieces and the width at the waist of the under-arm pieces and the flare to the skirt belowthe waist of the front and under-arm pieces. By the hip-pieces P and P being connected, as described, to the pieces 0 and O the dare to the hip portion may be varied, if desired, without varying the width of the front or under-arm pieces.

When it is desired to have what is termed a curved bust, I have provided the pivot members 3' which are respectively pivoted to the piece J by rivet 44 and 45 and which may be pushed beneath or drawn out from beneath piece J, according to the desired curve of the bust. These membersj are secured at their junction to a horizontal strip slotted in its center and secured to the front piece J. In order to permit the lateral movement of membersf, they are provided at the pivot with a short slot, so as topermit of lengthwise movement.

We are now ready to set the appliance, Fig. 4, for ontlining the front part of a garment, assuming the measurements to be as hereinbefore given. The shoulder-piece K is set so that its slot 27 is in alinement with guideline 28, and the neck graduation 13 at slot 27 is set at the screw in said slot and the nut is screwed down. The neck-piece K is moved so that its neck graduation 13 at slot 43 is read at the concaved edge of piece J. The plate M is moved in slots 23, so that its upper edge registers with the graduations 13 on armhole-measurement. This movement. of plateM determines the height of the darts, the length ofthe armhole, and determines the height of the bust. Piece 0 is moved laterally, so that the bust-graduation 38 on the extension 0 is read at the adjacent edge of plate M, which indicates the width of the bust. Piece L is moved in slot 29, so its -outer edge registers at graduation 5, shoulder-measurement on edge 24:. Piece L is then swung on its pi rot-screw, so its concaved edge cooperates with edge 35 of piece 0. The extension 0 is moved laterally, so that the bust graduation 38 on extension 0 is read at the adjacent edge of the connecting memberj. The hip-pieces P and P are moved together on the piece 0, so that the graduation 8 un-.

der-arm measure is read at the upper adjacent edges of pieces P and P, and the underarm piece 0 is concealed beneath the underarm piece. 0, so that edge 58 of piece 0 and edge 40 of piece P are set to run into each other, and the strips Q and Q are concealed beneath the'under-arm piece O.

' Theamounts to be allowed for darts are determined as follows: By reading the auxiliary scale on the extension 0 and on the extension 19 opposite the bust-measure 38 on said extension Iobtain the width of the front and underarm pieces at waist. Then by reading the scale on piece F opposite waist-measure 24 I obtain the width of the sum of the back and side body I pieces. The three scales combined as read indicates fifteen inches, whichis one-half of the whole garment. However, as the waist-measure is assumed to be twenty-four inches we have an excess of three inches, which is to be taken out in darts. As previously stated, the height of the darts was determined by the position of plateM. The waistpiece N is shift-.

ed in slots 31 so that the front measure, 19 inches, on piece J is read at the upper edge of piece N. The inner dart-strip and its extension-strip are adjusted laterally in slotin piece N to the graduation three inches. The needle is set midway of this space and is set perpendicular to the indices on the piece N. The dart-strips are moved in slot 30 until the apex of the angle form by their interior edges are directly opposite the needle. Similarly the extensions of the dart-strips are moved in the slot 33, so their inner edges are directly opposite the lower point of the needle. When it is desired to out two darts instead of one, the inner dart-strip end and its extension need but be contracted the necessary amount moved from left to right one inch at waist.

The front is outlined as follows: along the front outer edge of piece J and the adjacent strai ht edge of K and edge 42 of K, then edge o and 24 of piece K to the outer edge of piece L, along the concaved edge of piece L to the junction of the edges 35 and 58, and edge 58 of piece 0 and edge 40 of piece P, The darts are outlined on the interior of the dart-strips and their extension-strips. To adjust the appliance for outlining the underarm piece, the length of the under-arm piece having been previously determined in cutting the front, and as the hip-pieceP and P are alreadyset at that point, we have but to ascertain the width of the under-arm piece of the garment, which is done by moving the piece 0 and the piece P together laterally, so that the bust graduation 38 on the extension 19 is indicated at the adjacent outer edge 58 of the piece 0, and the upper end of the piece 0' is moved laterally, so that bust graduation 38 on extension o is indicated on the adjacent edge 58 of piece 0, and piece Q is adjusted longitudinally above the upper end of piece 0 and set at the same elevation from waist to armhole as the upper end of piece E, Fig. 3, is from waist to armhole, and the ITS concaved edge of strip Q is set to the edge of piece 0. As thus set the under-arm portion of the garment is outlined on the inner edge of piece 0 and along the continuing convex edge of piece P and edge of piece P, edge 48 of piece 0, the outer edge of strip Q, and along the concaved edge of strip Q. After the pieces for the garment is outlined allowance must be made for all seams. To set the appliance to outline a shirt-waist or any garment with the front and under arm in a single piece, it is set the same as when outlining the front without the under-arm piece, excepting that I use the lower row of graduations on the extension 0 for measuring the front and under arm in one piece, and the strips Q and Q are drawn out from underneath to complete the underarm curve.

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent- 1. In an appliance for drafting garments, a front piece having a broadened upper extension, curved bust-pieces on the front and a rectangular extension on the bottom, afront shoulder-piece, a front-arm piece, a plate adjustably secured to the front piece, an under-arm piece with extension, a hip-piece, dart-strips adjustably secured to the front portion, and a waist-piece with needle adjustably secured to the dart-strips.

2. In an appliance for drafting the front of garments a front piece, having a broadened extension and an oblique guide-line on said extension in combination with a front shoulder-piece secured adjustably to said extension provided with an elongated downward extension a longitudinal slot therein and an oblique slot through its bottom portion having neck-measurement grad nations thereon, whereby by said graduations and guide-line on said from-piece extension the point of the neck and slope of the shoulder are determined.

3. In an appliance for drafting the front of garments, the front piece with top extension having a guide-line thereon and a front shoulder-piece having a concave edge terminating in a point for indicating the point of the neck, said shoulder-piece revoluble on said front piece and adjustable along the guideline thereof, whereby the point of the neck and the slope of the shoulder are simultaneously established by the adjustment of said shoulder-piece.

4:. In an appliance for drafting the front of garments, a front piece, a guide-line on its top portion, in combination with a front shoulder-piece secured adjustably to the top portion of said front piece and provided with an elongated downward extension with a longitudinal slot therein, a slot through its bottom portion, neck measurement graduations thereon, and a front neck-piece secured adj ustably to the front piece and also secured to the front shoulder-piece and neck-measurement graduations thereon.

5. In an appliance for drafting the front of garments a front piece forming a broad extension, a guide-line on said extension in combination with a front shoulder-piece having an oblique slot in its lower portion and graduations thereon and secured adjustably to the top portion of said front piece and provided with an elongated downward extension with longitudinal slot therein, and a single arcuate pend ulous front armhole-piece secured adj ustably through its top end to the extension of the front shoulder-piece.

6. In an appliance for drafting garments, a front shoulder-piece having a slot provided with neck graduations, in combination with a front piece having a guide-line and a screw for engaging said slot.

7. In an appliance for drafting the front of garments in combination a front piece having an extension on the top, with graduations thereon a plate longitudinally adjust-able on said extension, and guided by the graduations on said front-piece extension a front under-arm piece adjustable transversely of aforesaid plate and longitudinally with same, a rectangular connecting member transversely adjustable at the bottom of said under-arm piece and longitudinally adjustable on the bottom portion of the front piece.

8. In an appliance for drafting the front of garments in combination a front piece with extension, a plate longitudinally adjustable on said extension, an under-arm piece adj ustable transversely of aforesaid plate and longitudinally with same, a rectangular connecting member transversely adjustable at the bottom of the under-arm piece and longitudinally on the bottom of the front piece and a flaring hip-piece longitudinally adjustable of aforesaid under-arm piece.

9. The combination with a front piece, of a plate adjustable longitudinally thereon, an under-arm piece adjustably secured to the said plate and having a curved edge 35, said under-arm piece being provided with bust graduations, a front-shoulder-piece adjustable on the front piece, and a curved front armhole-piece adjustably secured at its upper end to the shoulder-piece, the lower end being free, the curve of said arm-piece being adapted to run into the curved edge of the under-arm piece to form the armhole, substantially as described.

10. In an appliance for drafting the front of a garment, the combination with the front piece, a plate longitudinally adjustable thereon, the front shoulder-piece,adjustable on the front piece as described, and having a downward extension, a horizontal slot therein the front armhole-piece adjustable along said slot of a front under-arm pieceadjustable transversely of the aforesaid plate and IIO with the latter longitudinally on the aforeing a curved upper edge coiiperating with the front-arm pieces, to continue the under-arm curve, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

11. In an appliance for drafting the front of garments, the combination with the front piece of a plate adjustable Vertically thereon, an under-arm piece having a curved outer edge with under-arm graduations thereon, and adjustably connected with said plate and a second under-arm piece provided with a transverse slot in its upper portion and adjustable laterally from the aforesaid underarm piece, the slot in the latter provided With bust-measure indices, a hip-piece with lateral extension and slot therein having bust graduations thereon corresponding to the bust graduation's on the second under-arm piece.

12. In an appliance for drafting the front of garments, a front piece, graduations thereon, a plate vertically adjustable thereon along said graduations, an under-arm piece connected to said plate, a secondary under-arm piece transversely adjustable from the underarm piece, and slidable-underneath the latter so as to be completely concealed thereby, a strip Q pivotally adjustable to said second under-arm piece, a curved strip Q, adjustably pivoted at the top end of the piece Q, both pieces Q and Q adapted to be shifted completely underneath the said under-arm pieces so as to be concealed completely thereby for the purpose set forth. 7

13. In an appliance for drafting the front of garments a dart device composed of curved dart-strips, each provided with a longitudinal slot, at horizontally-slotted waist-piece, lower extensions to the dart-strips slot ted longitudi nally and each secured adjustably through its top to the waist-piece and also in the slots of the dart-strips, and a needle adj ustably secured in the slot of the waist-piece.

14. In an appliance for drafting the front of a garment, a front piece, curved dart-strips adj ustably secured to said front piece, a waistpiece having a longitudinal slot therein, said waist-piece lying crosswise of said dart-strips and an extension-strip being adjustably pivoted to each of said dart-strips, and to the waist-piece, said waist-piece beingadjustabl'e longitudinally with relation to said dartstrips, independent of said front piece, and means for determining the proper position of the upper ends of said dart-strips, and the lower ends of said extensions.

15. In an appliance for drafting garments, an under-arm piece, a second under arm piece, adjust-ably connected thereto, a strip Q adjustably connected to one of the underarm pieces, a curved strip adjustably connected to said strip Q and means for adjusting the said curved strip and strip Q longitu' dinally and laterally with respect to said under-arm pieces.

16. In an appliance for drafting the front of garments a dart device composed of curved dart strips, slots, therein, a horizontallyslotted waist-piece, lower extension-strips each provided with a slot and adjustably secured through their tops to the waist-piece and also in the slots of the dart-strips, and a needle adjustably secured in the slot of the Waist-piece in combination with a plate to which the top of the dart device is adjustably secured and a horizontally-stotted connecting member in which the lower dart extensions are adjustahly secured.

17. The combination in an appliance for drafting the front of a garment,of curved dart-st rips, longitudinal slots therein, a plate to which said dart-strips are pivotally secured, a waist-piece adjustably secured to said dartstrips, lower slotted extension-strips pivoted to the waist-piece and also through the slots in the dart-strips, and a needle adjustably secured to said waist-piece for the purpose set forth.

18. The combination in an appliance for drafting the front of a garment, of curved dart-strips, a plate to which said dart-strips are pivotally secured, a waist-piece adjustably secured to said dart-strips and a needle secured to said Waist-piece, said waist-piece being horizontally slotted and having corresponding figures or graduations on both sides of said slot, whereby said needle may be squared to said waist-piece, substantially as described.

19. In an appliance for drafting the front of garments, the combination with a front piece of a shoulder-piece adjustable thereon to vary the slope of the shoulder and determine the point of the neck, a graduated slotted extension on the shoulder-piece, a front-arm piece pivoted adjustably at its upper end in the slotted extension and free at the other end, a plate having a front underarm curve adjustable on said front piece said curved frontarm piece arranged to be swung on its pivot to codperate with the curve of said plate to draftthe under arm, substantially as described.

20. In an appliance for drafting the front and under arm of a garment, the combination with a front piece,an under-arm piece having a lateral extension and two series of bust graduations marked thereon, said imder-arm piece being adjustably secured to said front piece, and means for adjusting the under-arm piece longitudinally and laterally with respect to said front piece.

21. The combination with an under-arm piece of a second under-arm piece, secured beneath the latter adjustable transversely theretoand having a lateral top extension with bust graduations thereon,a flaring hippiece having a lateral extension with transverse slot therein and having bust grad uations thereon corresponding to the above bust graduations and connected to both underarm pieces whereby the under arm at both bust and waist line can be drafted from the same measurement, substantially as described.

22. The combination with a front piece, a plate thereon, an under-arm piece adjustably secured to said front piece of a second underarm piece, a second under-arm piece secured beneath the former and adjustable transversely thereof, a flared hip-piece adjustable both vertically and transversely of said under-arm pieces and a complementary flaring hip-piece adjustable vertically with the aforesaid hip-piece whereby the length of the under arm of the front, the length of the under-arm piece and the flare of the hip for under-arm and front pieces are simultaneously obtained.

23. In an appliance for drafting the front of garments, a front piece, with top extension and graduations on the latter, a plate thereon adjustable to said graduations, an under-arm piece adjustable transversely of aforesaid plate and provided with a longitudinal slot, a flared hip-piece adjustable longitudinally of said underarm piece and provided with an extension projecting substantially at right angles thereto and having a slot therein in which said hip-piece is adjustable transversely, and acomplementary flared hip-piece adjustable with said hip-piece on said underarm piece.

24. In a device for drafting garments, the combination with the front piece, of a shoulder-piece connected thereto and means for adjusting the slant thereof, a neck-piece adjustably connected to both front and shoulder pieces, the arm-piece L pivoted at one end to the shoulder-piece, a plate on and adjustable longitudinally of the front piece, a front under-arm piece 0 adjustable on and laterally of said plate, and having a curved edge arranged to form a continuation of the like edge of the aforesaid front-arm piece L and the segmental strip Q adjustable on piece 0 so that its curvilinear edge will form a continuation of the curved edge of said arm-piece O, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

25. In an appliance for drafting garments, two under-arm pieces each having longitudinal slots, in combination with a flared hippiece having a lateral extension and a slot therein, said extension crossing said underarm pieces, and said hip-piece being adjustably secured to one of said under-arm pieces, and a flared piece havinga screw for engaging the slot in said extension and the slot in the other under-arm piece, and means for determining the longitudinal and lateral position of said hip-pieces with respect to said underarm pieces, whereby the length and width of the under-arm piece, and the flare to the skirt of said pieces may be obtained in one adjusting operation.

26. In an appliance for drafting garments an under-arm piece, and a second under-arm piece, in combination with a flared hip-piece having a lateral extension, and a slot therein, said extension being adjustably secured to said under-arm pieces, and a downward-flaring piece adjustably connected to said extension and one of said under-arm pieces, and means for adj ustingsaid flared pieces together longitudinally with respect to said under-arm pieces, and said hip-pieces are also capable of swinging movement.

27. An appliance for drafting the back of a garment composed essentially of a back shoulder-piece, a downward strip rigidly connected thereto, a bust-strip adj ustably secured on said down ward strip, asingle backpiece adjustably secured to the shoulderpiece, a back armhole-piece adjustably secured to said shoulder-piece, a side-body piece D adjustably secured to the armholepiece,aside-bodypieceEandan auxiliary sidebody piece E adjustably secured to the armhole-piece, a waist-piece secured adjustably to side-body and back pieces, a flaring hippiece integral with the waistpiece, and a waist -line piece secured adjustably to the back-piece and waist-piece.

28. In an appliance for drafting garments, a back shoulder-piece having a downward extension, a bust-strip having bust graduations marked thereon, said bust-strip being adj ustably secured to said extensions, an armholepiece adjustably secured to said shoulderpiece, and cooperating with said graduations and means for holding said parts in operative position.

29. In an appliance for drafting garments, the combination of a shoulder-piece, an armhole-piece and two longitudinal pieces adj ustably connected together to give the outline of the back and side-body portions of the garment, and a curved piece adapted to slide upon said armhole-piece and adjustably secured thereto in various positions without a1- tering the combined width of said back and side-body portions.

30. In an appliance for drafting garments, a set of pieces adj ustably mounted together and adapted to give the outline of the back and side-body portions of a garment, combined,

said set of pieces including anarmhole-piece and a waist-piece, and a curved piece for outlining the seam between said back and sidebody portions, said curved piece capable of adjustment at the armhole-piece and at the Waist-piece without altering the adjustment of said set of pieces.

31. In an appliance for drafting garments, a back-piece, a side-body piece, and a Waistpiece adj ustably connected together and adjustable longitudinally and laterally each in reference to the other, the said back-piece being provided witha series of graduations for indicating the position for said longitudinal adjustment whereby the length of the back and side-body pieces is obtained by one adjustment of the waist-piece.

shoulder-piece, an armhole-piece, a waist piece, a waist-line piece G, a sheath thereon and a side-body piece D adj ustably secured to the armhole-piece and free at its lower end, said lower end passing through said sheath as specified.

34:. In an appliance for drafting garments,

a back-piece, a side-body piece and a second side-body piece and a waist-piece, adjustably Q connected to said back and side-body pieces, said waistpiece being adjustable laterally' with respect to said back and side -bod-y? pieces and said waist-piece being adjustable longitudinally on said back and side-body pieces, and said back-piece and said waistpiece being provided with sets of graduations indicating the positions for said adjustments,

whereby the-parts may be set at one adjusting operation to give the length of the back and side-body seams, and the width of said:

pieces in proportion to waist-measure.

35. The combination with a single waistpiece having an integral flaring hip-piece of a single side-body piece E adj ustably secured in the waist-piece, a single back-piece adj ustably secured to said waist-piece, and a waistline piece with sheath thereon and transverse slot in its top portion, aside-body piece.

VD sliding in said sheath; .the inner edge of said waist-line piece to be set to the lower edge of the side-body piece D for the purpose described.

36. In an appliance for drafting the back and side-body pieces, of a garment, abackpiece, two side-body pieces, and a waist-piece havinga flared extension, and slidable long-i-: tudinally in respect to said back and side body pieces, and slidable laterally in respect to the back and one of said side-body pieces,

' and a flared piece connected to and carriedlongitudinally bysaid waist-pieces, said back and Waist pieces being provided with sets of graduations indicating the position of said adjustments.

37. In an appliance for drafting the back of a garment a curvilinear back armholepiece, aslightly-concaved outer edge thereon a segmental slot therein with childs grad uations thereon in combination with a suppleinentary childs' armhole-piece adj ust'ably secured in the said segmental slot, having an upper concaved edge and a straight sidef edge for the purpose described.

38. In an appliance for drafting garments, a back-piece provided with a longitudinal:

slot, a side-body piece, and a second sidebody pieceprovided with a longitudinal slot, 1

in combinnation with a waist-piece having a iliary side-body piece E adj ustably pivoted with side-body piece to the armhole-piece, a waist-piece, a flaring hip-piece integral therewith with sheath thereon in which the piece auxiliary side-body piece slides longitudinally, the side-body piece being adjustably secured, to the Waist-piece for longitudinal and lateral adjustment.

40. In an appliance for drafting the back of a garment, the combination with a backpiece and a side-body piece, of a graduated waist-piece slidably secured to both the backpiece and'the side-body piece,said waist-piece being longitudinally and laterally adjustable with respect to the back and side-body pieces, substantially as set forth.

41. The combination with a back-piece, a shoulder-piece, an armhole-piece adjustably attached to said shoulder piece, and a sidebody piece adjustably secured to said armhole-piece; of an extra'childs armhole-piece pivoted at its upper end to the armhole-piece and having its lower end free, substantially as described.

the combination of a back-piece provided with waist-piece having a lateral slot, and a flared piece having a sheath thereon for adj ustably securing the side-body piece to the latter piece, and said flared piece having an adj usting-screw for engaging the slot in said waistpiece and back-piece, this connection serves to hold all four parts together.

43. In a device for drafting the back of a garnient,the combination with the back-piece, the side-body piece, the shoulder-piece connected to said back-piece as described, the

between the same and the shoulder and side body pieces; of the inner side-body piece adj ustable on the back-arm piece, asingle waistpiece adjustable longitudinally of the back and side-body pieces, both said pieces adjustable laterally on said waist-piece, substantially as for the purpose set forth.

44:. In an appliance for drafting the back of a garment, the combination with the backpiece, the side-body piece, the back-arm piece, the shoulder piece and adjustable connections between said back-arm piece and the side'body and shoulder pieces, the said shoulder-piece having the graduated edge 5 and 42. In an appliance for drafting garments,

back-arm piece and adjustable connections the corresponding graduations 2, and an adjustable connection between said shoulder and back pieces, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

45. In apparatus for drafting the back of a garment, the combination with a shoulderpiece having a slotted downwardly-extending strip 16, of a bust-piece graduated to bustmeasure, one end thereof adjustably pivoted in the slot of said strip 16 and a single backarm piece adjustably connected to the shoulder-piece and positioned by said bust-piece, substantially as described.

46. The combination with the shoulderpiece provided with the slotted strip 16, the bust-strip adjustable in said slotted strip 16, the back-piece adjustable in an angular direction on and relatively to said shoulderpiece, the back-arm piece adjustable lengthwise of the shoulder-piece, the side-body piece adjustable along an arc of a circle on said arm-piece and the waist-piece adjustable lengthwise of the back and side-body pieces for vertical and lateral adjustment; of the inner side-body piece constructed as described, adjustable along the aforesaid arc of a circle on the arm-piece, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

4:7. The combination with the shoulderpiece provided with the slotted strip 16, the bust-strip adjustable in said slotted strip 16, the back-piece adjustable in an angular direction on and relatively to said shoulderpiece, the back-arm piece adjustable lengthwise of the shoulder-piece, the side-body piece adjustable along an arc of acircle on said armpiece, the waist-piece adjustable lengthwise of the back and side-body pieces for vertical and lateral adjustment and the inner sidebody piece constructed as described, adjustable along the aforesaid arc of a circle on the arm-piece; of an auxiliary side-bod y piece on the arm-piece and slidably connected with the waist-piece, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

48. The combination with the shoulderpiece provided with the slotted strip 16, the bust-strip adjustable in said slotted strip 16, the back-piece adjustable in an angular direction on and relatively to said shoulderpiece, the back-arm piece adjustable lengthwise of the shoulder-piece, the side-body piece E adjustable along an arc of a circle on said 7 arm-piece, the waist-piece adjustable lengthwise of the back and side-body pieces for vertical and lateral adjustment and the inner side-body piece, constructed as described, adjustable along the aforesaid arc of a circle on the arm-piece; of an auxiliary side-body piece on the arm-piece and slidably connected with the waist,- the flared extension F, integral therewith and the waist-line piece adj ustable vertically of the back-piece and inner side-body piece and laterally of the waistpiece, back-piece and piece D substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

49. The combination with the shoulderpiece A, the back-piece B connected with and adjustable relatively to said shoulder-piece as described, the arm-piece 0 connected with and adjustable relatively to said shoulderpiece, the side-body piece E adjustable along an arc of a circle on said arm-piece, and the waist-piece F connected for adjustment with the back and side-body pieces as set forth; of the auxiliary side-body piece E adjustable with the side-body piece E on arm-piece O and slidably connected with the said waistpiece F, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

50. In an apparatus for drafting garments, the combination with a back-piece, of a shoulder-piece adj ustably connected thereto and a back-arm piece adjustably connected to the shoulder-piece, a side-body piece adj ustably connected to the arm-piece, and an extra childs arm-piece adj ustably connected with the back-arm piece, said armpieces being of difierent curvature and adapted to cooperate to draft the back of the armhole, substantially as described.

51. In a device for drafting the back of a garment, the combination with a shoulderpiece and back-arm piece adjustably connected therewith; of a waist-piece having a waist-line piece G adjustably and pivotally connected thereto, a side-body piece D adj ustable along an arc of a circle of the aforesaid back-arm piece, said piece D tapering to a point and laterally movable in a sheath on the waist-line piece whereby the waist-line piece G is adapted to be rotated to aline the pattern -1ine traced to the waist along the aforesaid side-body piece and point of said body-piece to give the proper flare to the skirt, as described.

- 52. In a device for drafting the back of a garment, the combination with the shoulderpiec e A provided with parallel graduations, the back-piece B constructed and adjustable on and relatively to said shoulder-piece as set forth, the back-arm piece connected with and adjustable lengthwise of the shoulder-piece,

the side-body piece E connected with and adjustable along an arc of a circle on the backarm piece, the waist-piece F having the integral piece F at one end, said waist-piece connected for adjustment longitudinally and laterally relatively to the back and side-body pieces; of the waist-line piece pivoted to and adjustable lengthwise of the waist-piece F, and the inner side-body piece constructed as described, and adjustable along the aforesaid arc of a circle on back-arm piece 0 and slidable longitudinally and laterally in a sheath on said waist-line piece G, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

53. In a device for drafting the back of a garment, the combination with the shouldernected for adjustment with the aforesaid I3 piece, the back-arm piece connected with and back and side-body pieces as described, for adjustable lengthwise of said shoulder-piece; the purpose set forth.

a. single back-piece and a single sidebody In witness whereof I have hereunto set my piece, said back-piece connected with and adhand.

jnsteble on and relatively to the shoulder- JANE ROBBERT. piece, and said side body piece connected Witnesses: with and adjustable along an arc of a circle S. H. NOURSE, on the back-arm piece; of a. waist-piece con- CHAS. E. TOWNSEND.

Images