US622092A

US622092A - tucek

Info

Publication number: US622092A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1899-03-28
Anticipated expiration: 1916-03-28

Description

No. 622,092. Patented Mar. 28, i899.

" M. TUCEK.

CHART FUR DRAFT'ING GARMENT PATTERNS.

(Application med June 1o, 189s.) (No Model.) q. 2 sheets-sheet l.

BY )n A TTOHNE YS.

THE Nnms Prrsns ca.. moro-Limo.. wAsHlNGYoN, D. c.

No. 622,092. Patanted Mar. 28, |899. M. TUCEK.

CHART FUR DRAFTING GARMENT PATTERNS.

(Application led June 10, 1898.)

(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

iBY

A TTOHNE YS.

DNTTE STATES PATENT MARIE TUOEK, OF NEl/V YORK, N. Y.

CHART FOR DRAFTING G ARIVIENT-PATTERNS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 622,092, dated. March. 28, 1899. Application filed .Tune l0, 1898. Serial No. 683,058. (No model.)

T0 all whom t may concern:

Be it known that I,`MARIE TUCEK, of the city of New York, borough of Manhattan, in the county and State of New York, have invented a new and Improved Garment-Drafting Pattern, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description.

The invention relates to garment-drafting patterns such as shown and described in Letters Patent of the United States No. 600,050, granted lto me on March l, 1898.

The object of the present invention is to provide a new and improved garment-drafting pattern designed for accurately drafting the outlines of ladies waists and skirts and arranged to permit of easy and convenient adjustment of the various parts without requiring any skill, the adjustment depending only on a few measurements taken of the body of the person forwhom the garment is to be designed.

The invention consists of novel features and parts and combinations of the same, as will be described hereinafter and then pointed out in the claims.

Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification, in which similar characters of reference indicate corresponding parts inall the figures.

Figure l is a plan view of the pattern for the front of the waist. Fig. 2 is a similar view of the same with parts in position for drafting a jacket. Fig. 3 is a plan View of the pattern for the back of the waist. Figs. 4 and 5 are enlarged detailed plan views of parts of the pattern shown in Fig. 3. Fig. 6 is a plan view of the skirt-pattern, and Fig. 7 is an enlarged detail view of parts of the same.

The garment-drafting pattern is provided with a pattern for drafting ladies waists and jackets, and this pattern, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2., is provided with a base or Waist portion made in two sections A A', pivotally connected with each otherby a clamping-screw B, which serves to fasten the two parts together when drafting a waist and to allow of disconnecting the two sections when using the pattern for draftinga jacket, as indicated in Fig. 2.

From the outer end of the basesection A extends upwardly a member O, forming, with a member C' and a connecting-slide C2, the

front arm for drafting the front portion of the waist. The members C O have a slidable connection with each other, and for this purpose a clamping-bolt B', held on the upper end of the member C, engages a slot in the member O with the upper edge of the member C, reading on a graduation D4 in centimeters and indicating the front measurement from the neck to the waist. rlhe slide C2 is provided with two slots C3, engaged by pins C4 in the members C O', so that when the latter are drawn apart or pushed together the slide O2 will adjust itself correspondingly, so as to render the front edge of the front arm continuous for drawing the proper lines.

The upper end of the member O is provided with a curved oset O5 for drafting the front portion of the neck, and the upper end of the said oifset is provided with an angular arm 06,'on which slides the member E of an arm E, forming part of the s cye-pattern. A clamping-bolt B2, lcarried by the member E', en-

gages a slot in the arm C6, and the pin B3 on the latter engages a slot in the member E', so that the said member has movement only in alinement with the arm O6. The outer edge of the member E indicates on a graduation D', formed on the arm O5, the graduation bein g in centimeters and reading the front width of the waist. The other member E2 of the arm E is slotted and connected by a clamping-screw B4 with a link F, having a pivotal connection by a clamping-screw B5 with the angular' member G of an arm G, connected by a second arm H with the base-section A'. The clamping-screw B5 is adapted to pass along a slot F in the scye-link F, and the arm H is adapted to be fastened by a clampingsimilar sliding connection with the waist slid= ing section A', and for this purpose a clampingscrew B8 engages a longitudinal slot A2 in the said section A', and-a pin B9, likewise carried by the arm H, projects into the said slot IOO to insure proper sliding motion of the said arm II on the section A' without changing the angular position of the two parts relatively to each other. The inner end of the arm II is on either of the graduations DS or D4,formed on the section A', the graduations being in centimeters and indicating the size of a ladys waist. The graduation D2 is for large-sized waists and the graduation DV1 for small-sized waists.

The arm I is connected by triangular dartpieces with the base formed by the sections A A, said triangular pieces being spaced a suitable distance apart, the first piece being formed of two armsJ J', pivoted on the arm I and having a sliding connection with two pieces J2 Ji", pivoted on the base-section A. The other triangular piece is provided with two arms J4 J5, similar to the arms J J' and likewise pivoted to the arm I, near the inner endthercof. The arm J 1 has a sliding connection with a piece J 6, pivoted on the inner end of the base-section A, and the other arm J5 has a sliding connection with an arm J7, rigidly extending from the other base-section A'. The base-sections A A' are provided with depending arms A2A4A5AV'A2, of which the arms Ar and AG are removably connected with each other, the several arms serving to draft the hip portion of the waist.

Now when the waist measurements, the front length, and the front width are known then the several parts are adjusted on the graduations D, D', D2, D3, D, and D5 to bring the several parts of the pattern in the proper position for drafting the outline of the front portion of the waist along the outer edges of the pattern for a person having the measurementsv mentioned. It is understood that by this simple arrangement no additional figuring whatever is necessary, as the several parts automatically adjust themselves to give the properproportions to the outlines for the front portion of the waist.

In order to draft a jacket, a link K is employed for connecting the base section A with the section A', as plainly indicated in Fig. 2, said link K being normally locked to the arm A, as indicated in dotted lines in Fig. l. \Vhen the link K is used, a link connection is made between the clamping-screw B and the slot in the arm J7, engaged by the arm J5. 1

The scye-link F is formed on its inside with an angular offset F2, adapted to abut against a correspondingly-shaped angular offset G2, formed on the upper end of the arm G, said angular offsets F2 and G2 being fitted against each other when it is desired to use the waistpattern for drafting a jacket, as shown in Fig. 2. The remaining adjustment of the several parts is made according to the measurements taken and as explained above in reference to Fig. l.

A pattern for the back portion of the waist or jacket is illustrated in Fig. 3 and is provided with base-sections A8 A, fitted to slide longitudinally one upon the other and having a clamping-screw B13 for fastening the two sections together. rlhe inner edge ofthe section A8 is adapted to indicate on either of the graduations D6 or D7 in centimeters and representing the waist measurement similarly to the graduations D3 and D4. On the section AS is formed an upwardly-extending slotted arm L, on which is fitted to slide an arm L', adapted to be fastened in place by a clam pin g-screw BM, which, with the pin B11", also serves to guide the arm L' on the arm L. The lower edge of the arm L' indicates on a graduation D, formed on the arm L and arranged in centimeters to represent the front length and correspond with the graduations D, D5, and D2. The upper end of the arm L' has side extensions L2 L2, of which the extension L3 is pivotally connected with an arm made in two sections N N', held to slide loosely one upon the other and reaching the outer end of the base-section A8. A similar connecting-arm, made in sections N2 and N2, connects the extension L3 with the base-scction A, and` a like arm, made in sections N N5, pivotally connects the base-section AJ with the upper end of the extension L2, said arm having a slidable connection at its scction N4 with a link O, extending to a rear arm, likewise made in sections P P.

The link O is pivotally connected with the section L' at the junction of the extensions L2 L3, as plainly indicated in Fig. 3, while the upper end of the section N of the outermost arm has a suitable connection with the extension L3 to be fastened thereto by a clamping-screw. The rear-arm sections P Il are fitted to slide one upon the other and adapted to be fastened together by a clampingscrcw il", which, with a pin B17, keeps the arms in alinement with each other. The lower edge of the section P'indicatcs on a graduation D2 in centimeters to indicate the length of the back from the neck to the waist.

The upper end of the section P' is connected with a shoulder-mcasn ring device Q, which consists of a link Q', pivotally connected with the section P' and having a sliding connection with an L-shaped link Q2, adapted to be fastened to the link Q' by a clamping-screw B18, which, with a pin B12, holds the two links in alinement with each other. The outer end of the link Q2 is slidably connected with an arm Q2, having a loose slidable connection with an arm Q", pivoted on the clampingscrew B13 on the base-sections A8 A. The link Q2 also has a loose slidable connection with the link O, the arm Q2, and the link Q2 and adapted to be securely fastened together by a clamping-screw B20, engaging slots in both the arm Q2 and the link Q2.

The link Q2 is provided at its outer end with a graduation D10, and a similar graduation D11 is on the upper end of the arm Q2, the graduations being in centimeters and indicating the shoulder measurement of the back of the person on which the garment is to be fitted.

ICO

IIO

A graduation D12 is on the link Q2, said graduation being similar to the graduations DMD11 and set to the same figure-that is, according to the length of the measurement taken of the back of the person.

Now when the measurements of the waist, the shoulder, the back, the width, and the length of the back from the neck to the waist are known then the several parts are adjusted on the graduations D, DB, D, D10, D11, and D12 accordingto such measurements, and then the various clamping-screws are fastened securely to unite the parts with each other. When making the adjustment according to the measurement given, the several parts readily adj ust themselves, so that the outline of the pattern indicates a correct outline for the back portion of the waist.

The base-sections A8 A9 are provided with depending arms A12, which are adjustable to allow of adjustment at the back of the Waist.

The pattern for the skirt is shown in Figs. G and '7 and is provided with a series of L- shaped arms R, S, T, U, V, and W, of which the arm R is connected by links with the arm S, each link being formed of two adjustable sections R R2 and an L- shaped link S', the links R and R2 being tted to slide longitudinally one on the other and having a clamping-screw R3 for fastening the sections together. graduation R4, representing in centimeters the waist of the skirt, and on the other section is a graduation R5, indicating the bottom edge of the skirt in yards. Now in case the edge of the skirt is to be iive yards and waist of the skirt is to be fifty-tive centimeters then the two link-sections R R2are adjusted one on the other until the numeral 5 on the graduation R5 intersects on 55 7 onthe graduation R4, as indicated in Fig. 7. The link S' is pivotally connected atits lower end with the linksection R2 and the arm S, and the upper angular extension S2 is held adj ustably on a like extension R6 of the arm R by a clamping-screw R7 for fastening the, extensions together after they are adjusted to the waist-line graduation on the extension RG and given in centimeters the same as on the graduation R4. The arms ST, T V, and U V are similarly connected with each other by the section-links R R2 and links S', and the adjustment is the same as the one just described. A slotted link S2 connects the links S with the arms S, S, T, and U, to which they are pivoted, and a clamping-screw S4 serves to fasten the link S3 in place after adjustment is made. On this link S2 is a graduation similar to the graduation Ril-that is, indicating the bottom edge of the skirt in yards and being a continuation of the graduation R5-that is, if the graduation terminates at five yards the graduation on the link S2 runs from live yards downward to one yard or less. Thus for skirts less than iive yards-say three yards-at bottom edge the adjustment at the link-sections R and R2 The section R is provided with a is made at the numeral on the graduation R5 to the waist measurement on the gradnation R4, and then further adjustment is made at the link S2 to the numeral 3.

The arm V is connected with the arm U without the additional link S by an extension-arm V, slidable on the graduated extension R6 of' Now when the several parts are uniformly adjusted, as above described, according to the waist-measure and the bottom edge of the skirt the operator places the pattern upon the doubled-up material and draws linesalong the edges of the arms R, S, T, U, V, and W to a distance corresponding to the length of the skirt from the waist to the bottom, the waistline being drawn along the upper edge ofthe pattern at R, S2, V', and W'.

Havingthus fully described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patentl. A garment-drafting pattern, provided with a front waist-pattern comprsinga base made in pivotally-eonnected sections, a front arm having members slidable upon one another, one of said members being rigid with one end section of the base, an extensible side arm connected with the other end of the base, a scye device connected with the upper ends of the side arm and with the upper end of the front arm, a dart-arm held adj ustably on the front arm, and extensible dart-pieces connected with the said front arm and with that section of the base which is rigid with the front arm, substantially as described.

2. A garment-drafting pattern, provided with a Waist-pattern comprising a scye device, a side arm connected with one end of the scye device, a front arm connected with the other end of the scye device, a base-section extending inward from the lower end of the front arm, another base-section extending inward `from the lower end of the side arm a dart-arm held adjustably on the front arm, a dart-piece made in two sections each pivotally connected with the inner end of the dartarm and loosely connected with the inner ends of the base-sections respectively, and a link connecting the inner ends ot' the base-sections, Ybetween the sections of the dart-piece, substantially as described.

3. A garment-drafting pattern, provided with a back Waist or jacket pattern comprising a base formed of adjustable sections, a back arm made in parts adjustable one on the other, a shoulder-measurin g device connected with the said back arm. and formed with an IOO IIO

angular link, and an adjustable arm connecting the base With the said angular link, substantially as shown and described.

i. A garment-drafting",r pattern, provided with a back Waist or jacket pattern comprising a base formed of adjustable sections, a back aim made in parts adjustable one on the other, a shoulder-measuring device connected with the said arm and formed with an angular link, an adjustable arm connecting the base with the said angular link, an arm pivoted on the base and having an adjustable member, and a link connecting the last-mentioned arm with the said back arm, the said adjustable arm having a loose sliding connection With said link, substantially as shown and described.

5. A garment-drafting pattern, provided with a skirt-pattern, comprising a series of L-shaped arms, links each made in sections,

for adjustably connecting one of said arms with the other, and adjustable between the L-shaped link and its arm, substantially as shown and described.

6. A garment-drafting pattern, provided With a front j aeket-pattern comprising a base made in sections pivotally connected with each other by a link, an adjustable front arm extending from one end ofV the base and provided With a neck-offset, an adjustable side arm connected with said base, and a seyedrafting device between said side armv and said offset, said scye-drafting device having an ollset for abuting against an olfset on said back arm, substantially as shown and described.

MARIE TUCEK.

Vitnesses:

THEO. G. IIosTEn, M. M. BROWN.