US847844A - Garment-pattern. - Google Patents

Description

9. I 35, M M gll fz m W No. 847,844. PATENTED MAR.'19, 1907.

' I M. M. STILLMAN.

GARMENT PATTERN.

APPLICATION FILED FEB. 13, 1907.

I/vita cones TH: NORRIS PETERS to, WASHINGYn/J r uNrrED STATES PATENT orFroE.

MILLICENTM. STILLMAN, OF'NEW YORK, n. Y.

GARMENT-PATTERN.

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, MILLICENTM'. STILL- MAN, a citizen of the United States, residing in New York, in the county of New York and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Garment- Patterns, of which the following is a specification.

The invention relates to an improved waist-pattern.

The invention contemplates a one-piece pattern by which a garment may be more easily and scientifically fitted than has heretofore been possible with patterns now in use, the waist adjusting itself so perfectly to the form that the same degree of skill necessary in making and fitting the same from other patterns will not be required.

The object of the invention is to provide a pattern from which a waist may be cut that will have what is known as a straight front, straight back, straight-front shoulder-seam and bias, or what may be more definitely known to those skilled in the art of dress-making as a French bias underarm, and one in which the sewing of the shoulderseams adjusts the waist to any figure, it only being necessary to ascertain in each person the bust measure.

The pattern is such that the garment cut therefrom will, when the shoulder-seams are made, cause the shoulder portion to lift the front to position of the shoulder-line by reason of the front shoulder being cut on a lower level and upon a practically horizontal line or line at right angles with the middle line of the back. The lift of the garment keeps it in proper balance and throws the fullness in the bust, where it belongs. This construction removes the fullness from the under-arm when the shoulder-seams are joined, while at the same time perfectly balancing the whole garment, so that the wearer feels no strains or discomfort, and facilitates the fitting of the figure, and especially the under-arm fitting, which is very tedious and hard to accom lish perfectly. A waist may be made where y the wearer is given a better form and at the same time require less material than in patterns now in use. The garment cut from the pattern will always have the desirable spring in front to properly and comfortably fit the largest bust or give to slender figures a graceful fullness.

An im ortant feature of the pattern lies in cutting t e shoulder-seam line of the front on Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed February 13, 1907. Serial No. 357,150.

Patented. March 19, 19.07.

a lower line than the lowest point of the shoulder-seam line of the back and forming the front shoulder-seam line on a substantially horizontal line or a line at right angles to the vertical middle line of the back, so that when the lines are placed together the front portion will be drawn around under the arm, lifted up in front, producing a straight front and back.

Where the front shoulder-seam line is inclined either one way or the other, the bringing together of the back and front shoulderseam lines changes the whole character of the garment. 1f the front shoulder-seam line is inclined upwardly above the back shoulder-seam line when the garment is in position on the figure, the front is swung around, causing a fullness in the underarm, which might be ractical in a mans garment, but undesirab e in a womans. On the other hand, should the front shoulderseam line incline downwardly it would make the front bias, throwing an undesirable fullness in the arm-scye a fullness that properly belongsin the bust.

Fi ure 1 is a perspective view of a waist cut om my pattern. In this instance a dart formed in its lower portion is brought together. Fig. 2 is a plan view of the attern, and it also illustrates the shape 0 the fabric out in accordance with the pattern.

It is to be understood that the pattern is only formed of one-half of the piece, as shown in Fig. 2, which pattern when placed upon folded or doubled fabric produces the ghape shown in Fig. 2 when unfolded or laid Referring to the drawing, the numeral 1 designates the back, 2 the front, and 3 the arm-scye. 4 designates the neck portion of the back, and 4 the neck portion of the front. The back shoulder-seam line is designated by 5, while 6 designates the front seam-line.

The waist-line of the pattern (designated by 7, as shown in Fig. 2) describes a compound curve, ora curve 8, that joins with a curve 9, which latter extends to the edge of the pattern. The lines upon which the dart may be out are indicated by 10. The curve of the inner edge of the dart, as shown in Fig. 2, is also a compound curve, as indicated at 11, while the outside edge of the dartis described by a continuous sweep or ordinary curve, (designated 12.)

The leading feature of the pattern is that the front shoulder-seam line 6 is below the back shoulder-seam line 5 and that opposite points a of the front shoulder-seam line touch a horizontal line or a line drawn at right angles to the middle vertical line of the back. This point is clearly illustrated by dotted lines in Fig. 2.

When the back and front shoulder-pieces are joined and the points a of the front seamline brought upon the points 5 of the back shoulder-seam line, the garment cut will fit smoothly under the arm and the fabric of the front of the waist will be lifted, giving the desired fullness over the bust, while at the same time the front and back will be main tained straight, and a bias under-arm will be formed when the dart edges are brought together or the material within the dart-lines is gathered.

in adjusting the waist upon a figure the shoulder portion may be made to overlap to the desired extent as required in the particular fitting; but in order to maintain the principles of my system they must be evenly overlapped and secured parallel to each other or ima inary lines touching the oppo site points of the seam-lines should be parallel-that is to say, the front shoulder-seam line should not be inclined with relation to the back shoulder-seam line, or vice versa.

In shirt-waists, where a fullness is desired in front beneath the bust, the material between the dotted lines of the dart is not cut out, but simply tucked or gathered to produce the desired effect.

This pattern is equally adapted for cutting a corset-cover or similar nether garment. When so adapted, the neck portion of the back may be out very much lower, as indicated by dotted lines 0, while the neck portion of the front is cut deeper, as indicated by the dotted line (i. It will be observed that the pattern remains otherwise the same as to the relation and formation of the back and front shoulder-seams. The dart may be cut out, if desired, or the material between the dart-lines may be gathered or tucked as in making a shirt-waist or other loosely-litting garment.

1 claim 1. A garment-pattern in a single piece having armholes indicated thereon, back and front body portions, back and front shoulder portions, the front shoulder-seam line being cut on a lower plane than the lowest point of the back shoulder-seam line and so formed that its opposite points as (1 will practically touch a horizontal line drawn at right angles from the middle vertical line of the back, and a waist-line describing a compound curve substantially as shown.

2. A garment-pattern in a single piece having armholes indicated thereon, back and front body portions, back and front shoulder portions, the front shoulder-seam line being on a lower plane than the lowest point of the back shoulder-seam line and so formed that its opposite points as a will practically touch a horizontal line drawn at right angles from the middle vertical line of the back, a waistline describing a compound curve substantially as shown, a dart indicated on the front body portion, the inner line of the dart describing a compound curve, and the outer line of said dart a single sweep or simple curve, all substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

In testimony whereof I afiix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

MILLICENT M. ST] LLMAN.

itnesses TITIAN W. JonNsoN, PAUL 1). Cook.

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