US8193155B2 - Method and compositions for treating skin - Google Patents

Method and compositions for treating skin Download PDF

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US8193155B2
US8193155B2 US12/367,705 US36770509A US8193155B2 US 8193155 B2 US8193155 B2 US 8193155B2 US 36770509 A US36770509 A US 36770509A US 8193155 B2 US8193155 B2 US 8193155B2
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dna
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US20090220481A1 (en
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Daniel H. Maes
Nadine A. Pernodet
Lenny Slutsky
Donald F. Collins
Kerri Goldgraben
Edward Pelle
James Timothy McCarthy
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ELC Management LLC
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ELC Management LLC
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Assigned to ELC MANAGEMENT LLC reassignment ELC MANAGEMENT LLC ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: GOLDGRABEN, KERRI, MAES, DANIEL H., COLLINS, DONALD F., SLUTSKY, LENNY, MCCARTHY, JAMES TIMOTHY, PELLE, EDWARD, PERNODET, NADINE A.
Priority to US12/489,619 priority patent/US8703161B2/en
Publication of US20090220481A1 publication Critical patent/US20090220481A1/en
Priority to EP10739214.4A priority patent/EP2396019B1/en
Priority to ES10739214.4T priority patent/ES2582210T3/es
Priority to KR1020117018501A priority patent/KR101372130B1/ko
Priority to JP2011549304A priority patent/JP5694956B2/ja
Priority to CA2750469A priority patent/CA2750469C/en
Priority to AU2010210443A priority patent/AU2010210443B2/en
Priority to PCT/US2010/023435 priority patent/WO2010091327A2/en
Priority to US13/452,415 priority patent/US8962571B2/en
Publication of US8193155B2 publication Critical patent/US8193155B2/en
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K38/00—Medicinal preparations containing peptides
    • A61K38/04—Peptides having up to 20 amino acids in a fully defined sequence; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K38/06—Tripeptides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A61K36/31—Brassicaceae or Cruciferae (Mustard family), e.g. broccoli, cabbage or kohlrabi
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K38/00—Medicinal preparations containing peptides
    • A61K38/04—Peptides having up to 20 amino acids in a fully defined sequence; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K38/08—Peptides having 5 to 11 amino acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K38/00—Medicinal preparations containing peptides
    • A61K38/04—Peptides having up to 20 amino acids in a fully defined sequence; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K38/10—Peptides having 12 to 20 amino acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/645—Proteins of vegetable origin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/66—Enzymes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the invention is in the field of compositions for application to skin to repair, beautify, condition, and improve skin.
  • repair of TT dimers and 6-4PP damage formed by UVB exposure may take up to 48 and 8 hours respectively.
  • Repair of 8-oxo-dG and 06MeG lesions due to UVA or UVB exposure, ozone, or smoke and pollution may take up to 2 hours. If DNA lesions are not repaired before cell division, the result is apoptosis, or cell death.
  • the body's natural circadian rhythms are synchronized such that during exposure to environmental aggressors—usually during daylight hours—certain genes in the cells are activated to produce proteins that protect the cells against damage. Then, during periods of rest, usually at night, gene activation is decreased with normal circadian rhythms.
  • genes associated with natural bodily circadian rhythms include the CLOCK (Circadian Locomotor Output Cycles Kaput) gene and the PER1 (Period Homolog 1) gene, both of which encode proteins that regulate circadian rhythms.
  • CLOCK and PER1 genes are also present in keratinocytes, and they promote synthesis of corresponding proteins which promote cellular viability and repair.
  • the genes are most activated during daylight hours. As the corresponding protein levels increase during the day, a feedback inhibition results and the genes are “turned off” as night time approaches.
  • Cosmetic products for application to skin prior to nightly rest are well known. Many of such products contain ingredients that help to promote the cellular repair process. For example, they may include DNA repair enzymes for improving the effectiveness of natural cellular DNA repair, humectant ingredients for maintaining keratinocyte hydration, moisturizing ingredients for improving skin barrier function, and so on. While these ingredients improve the ability of keratinocytes to repair during periods of nightly rest, there is always room for improvement.
  • CLOCK and PER1 genes present in keratinocytes results in synthesis of proteins that promote cellular viability, cellular longevity, inhibition of cellular damage due to environmental aggressors, and improved repair of DNA damage. Proteins produced by activation of CLOCK and PER1 genes are most often generated during the normal circadian rhythm cycle, that is during daylight, when the skin is most subjected to environmental aggressors.
  • It is a further object of the invention to provide a method for repairing skin comprising applying to the skin a composition comprising at least one keratinocyte CLOCK or PER1 gene activator either alone or in combination with at least one DNA repair enzyme.
  • It is a further object of the invention to provide a composition for treating skin comprising at least one keratinocyte CLOCK or PER1 gene activator either alone or in combination with at least one DNA repair enzyme.
  • the invention is directed to a skin care composition
  • a skin care composition comprising at least one keratinocyte CLOCK or PER1 gene activator and at least one DNA repair enzyme.
  • the invention is further directed to a method for inhibiting damage to human keratinocytes due to environmental aggressors by applying a composition comprising at least one keratinocyte CLOCK or PER1 gene activator and at least one DNA repair enzyme.
  • the invention is further directed to a method for repairing DNA damage in human keratinocytes by applying to such keratinocytes a composition comprising at least one CLOCK or PER1 gene activator and at least one DNA repair enzyme.
  • FIG. 1 demonstrates the ability of Chronolux® to activate keratinocyte CLOCK genes and thereby protect keratinocytes against UV induced stress.
  • FIG. 2 demonstrates that keratinocytes survival and viability are improved when keratinocytes are treated with the composition of the invention and then exposed to UV light.
  • FIG. 3 demonstrates the improvement in keratinocyte survival between a composition containing the combination of at least one CLOCK or PER1 gene activator and at least one DNA repair enzyme is compared with a composition containing DNA repair enzymes alone.
  • CLOCK gene activator means an ingredient that activates one or more CLOCK genes present in keratinocytes to produce proteins that repair DNA damage, inhibit cellular damage cause by environmental aggressors, or otherwise improve the viability, strength, and/or longevity of keratinocytes. Included within the term “CLOCK gene” are the various components of the gene such as BMAL1, MOP3, and the like.
  • DNA repair enzyme means an enzyme that is operable to repair DNA base mutagenic damage. Such enzymes are often categorized by the type of DNA damage they repair, for example BER (base excision repair) enzymes, nucleotide excision repair (NER) enzymes; mismatch repair (MMR) enzymes; DNA helicases; DNA polymerases, and so on.
  • BER base excision repair
  • NER nucleotide excision repair
  • MMR mismatch repair
  • DNA helicases DNA polymerases, and so on.
  • mutations such as 8-oxo-7,8-dihydro-2′-deoxyguanosine may be repaired by OGG1 (8-oxoGuanine glycosylase); T-T dimers which may be repaired by (Nucleotide excision repair (NER) Photolyase); 6-4 photoproducts (which may be repaired by NER); and 06-methyl guanine (which may be repaired by 06-alkyl guanine transferase (AGT)).
  • OGG1 8-oxoGuanine glycosylase
  • T-T dimers which may be repaired by (Nucleotide excision repair (NER) Photolyase)
  • 6-4 photoproducts which may be repaired by NER
  • 06-methyl guanine which may be repaired by 06-alkyl guanine transferase (AGT)
  • PER1 gene activator means an ingredient that activates one or more PER1 genes found in keratinocytes to produce proteins that repair DNA damage, inhibit cellular damage caused by environmental aggressors, or otherwise improve the viability, strength, and/or longevity of keratinocytes.
  • Repair means, with respect to skin, that keratinocyte viability, strength, and longevity are generally improved. This may occur, by, among other things, repair of damaged keratinocyte DNA, cellular hydration, moisturization, inhibition of keratinocyte damage due to UV light, smoke or other environmental aggressors.
  • composition of the invention contains at least one CLOCK or PER1 keratinocyte gene activator. Suggested ranges are from about 0.000001 to about 40%, preferably from about 0.000005 to 35%, more preferably from about 0.00001 to 25%. Suitable CLOCK or PER1 activators may be present in the form of botanical extracts, polypeptides, peptides, amino acids, and the like.
  • a particularly preferred CLOCK and/or PER1 gene activator comprises a peptide of the formula (I): R 1 -(AA) n -X 1 -S-T-P-X 2 -(AA) p -R 2
  • S-T-P-NH 2 peptide More preferred is the S-T-P-NH 2 peptide, SEQ ID No. 4, or mixtures thereof.
  • composition used in the method of the invention also contains at least one DNA repair enzyme. Suggested ranges are from about 0.00001 to about 35%, preferably from about 0.00005 to about 30%, more preferably from about 0.0001 to about 25% of one or more DNA repair enzymes.
  • DNA repair enzymes as disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,077,211; 5,190,762; 5,272,079; and 5,296,231, all of which are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety, are suitable for use in the compositions and method of the invention.
  • One example of such a DNA repair enzyme may be purchased from AGI/Dermatics under the trade name Roxisomes®, and has the INCI name Arabidopsis Thaliana extract. It may be present alone or in admixture with lecithin and water. This DNA repair enzyme is known to be effective in repairing 8-oxo-diGuanine base mutation damage.
  • DNA repair enzyme Another type of DNA repair enzyme that may be used is one that is known to be effective in repairing 06-methyl guanine base mutation damage. It is sold by AGI/Dermatics under the tradename Adasomes®, and has the INCI name Lactobacillus ferment, which may be added to the composition of the invention by itself or in admixture with lecithin and water.
  • Ultrasomes® comprises a mixture of Micrococcus lysate (an end product of the controlled lysis of various species of micrococcus ), lecithin, and water.
  • Photosomes® comprises a mixture of plankton extract (which is the extract of marine biomass which includes one or more of the following organisms: thalassoplankton, green micro-algae, diatoms, greenish-blue and nitrogen-fixing seaweed), water, and lecithin.
  • DNA repair enzyme may be a component of various inactivated bacterial lysates such as Bifida lysate or Bifida ferment lysate, the latter a lysate from Bifido bacteria which contains the metabolic products and cytoplasmic fractions when Bifido bacteria are cultured, inactivated and then disintegrated.
  • Bifida lysate or Bifida ferment lysate a lysate from Bifido bacteria which contains the metabolic products and cytoplasmic fractions when Bifido bacteria are cultured, inactivated and then disintegrated.
  • This material has the INCI name Bifida Ferment Lysate.
  • DNA repair enzymes include Endonuclease V, which may be produced by the denV gene of the bacteriophage T4. Also suitable are T4 endonuclease; O 6 -methylguanine-DNA methyltransferases; photolyases such as uracil- and hypoxanthine-DNA glycosylases; apyrimidinic/apurinic endonucleases; DNA exonucleases, damaged-bases glycosylases (e.g., 3-methyladenine-DNA glycosylase); correndonucleases either alone or in complexes (e.g., E.
  • APEX nuclease which is a multi-functional DNA repair enzyme often referred to as “APE”; dihydrofolate reductase; terminal transferase; topoisomerase; O 6 benzyl guanine; DNA glycosylases.
  • Suitable DNA repair enzymes may be categorized by the type of repair facilitated and include BER (base excision repair) or BER factor enzymes such as uracil-DNA glycosylase (UNG); single strand selective monofunctional uracil DNA glycosylase (SMUG1); 3,N(4)-ethenocytosine glycosylase (MBD4); thymine DNA-glycosylase (TDG); A/G-specific adenine DNA glycosylase (MUTYH); 8-oxoguanine DNA glycosylase (OGG1); endonuclease III-like (NTHL1); 3-methyladenine DNA glycosidase (MPG); DNA glycosylase/AP lyase (NEIL1 or 2); AP endonuclease (APEX 1 and 2), DNA ligase (LIG3), ligase accessory factor (XRCC1); DNA 5′-kinase/3′-phosphatase (PNKP); ADP-ribos
  • DNA repair enzymes include those that are believed to directly reverse damage such as O 6 -MeG alkyl transferase (MGMT); 1-meA dioxygenase (ALKBH2 or ALKBH3).
  • MGMT O 6 -MeG alkyl transferase
  • ALKBH3 1-meA dioxygenase
  • TDP1 Tyr-DNA phosphodiesterase
  • MMR mismatch exision repair
  • DNA repair enzymes such as MutS protein homolog (MSH2); mismatch repair protein (MSH3); mutS homolog 4 (MSH4); MutS homolog 5 (MSH5); or G/T mismatch-binding protein (MSH6); DNA mismatch repair protein (PMS1, PMS2, MLH1, MLH3); Postmeiotic segregation increased 2-like protein (PMS2L3); or postmeiotic segregation increased 2-like 4 pseudogene (PMS2L4).
  • MSH2 MutS protein homolog
  • MSH3 mismatch repair protein
  • MSH4 mutS homolog 4
  • MSH5 MutS homolog 5
  • PMS1, PMS2, MLH1, MLH3 Postmeiotic segregation increased 2-like protein
  • PMS2L4 postmeiotic segregation increased 2-like 4 pseudogene
  • DNA repair enzymes are those known as nucleotide excision repair (NER) enzymes and include those such as Xeroderma pigmentosum group C-complementing protein (XPC); RAD23 ( S. cerevisiae ) homolog (RAD23B); caltractin isoform (CETN2); RFA Protein 1, 2, of 3 (RPA1, 2, or 3); 3′ to 5′ DNA helicase (ERCC3); 5′ to 3′ DNA helicase (ERCC2); basic transcription factor (GTF2H1, GTF2H2, GTF2H3, GTF2H4, GTF2H5); CDK activating kinase (CDK7, CCNH); cyclin G1-interacting protein (MNAT1); DNA excision repair protein ERCC-51; excision repair cross-complementing 1 (ERCC1); DNA ligase 1 (LIG1); ATP-dependent helicase (ERCC6); and the like.
  • NER nucleotide excision repair
  • XPC Xer
  • DNA repair enzymes in the category that facilitate homologous recombination include, but are not limited to DNA repair protein RAD51 homolog (RAD51, RAD51L1, RAD51B etc.); DNA repair protein XRCC2; DNA repair protein XRCC3; DNA repair protein RAD52; ATPase (RAD50); 3′ exonuclease (MRE11A); and so on.
  • DNA repair protein RAD51 homolog RAD51, RAD51L1, RAD51B etc.
  • DNA repair protein XRCC2 DNA repair protein XRCC3
  • DNA repair protein RAD52 ATPase (RAD50); 3′ exonuclease (MRE11A); and so on.
  • MRE11A 3′ exonuclease
  • DNA repair enzymes that are DNA polymerases are also suitable and include DNA polymerase beta subunit (POLB); DNA polymerase gamma (POLG); DNA polymerase subunit delta (POLD1); DNA polymerase II subunit A (POLE); DNA polymerase delta auxiliary protein (PCNA); DNA polymerase zeta (POLZ); MAD2 homolog ((REV7); DNA polymerase eta (POLH): DNA polymerase kappa (POLK): and the like.
  • POLB DNA polymerase beta subunit
  • POLG DNA polymerase gamma
  • POLD1 DNA polymerase subunit delta
  • POLE DNA polymerase II subunit A
  • PCNA DNA polymerase delta auxiliary protein
  • POLZ DNA polymerase zeta
  • MAD2 homolog (REV7)
  • DNA polymerase eta DNA polymerase kappa (POLK): and the like.
  • editing and processing nucleases include 3′-nuclease; 3′-exonuclease; 5′-exonuclease; endonuclease; and the like.
  • DNA repair enzymes include DNA helicases including such as ATP DNA helicase and so on.
  • the DNA repair enzymes may be present as components of botanical extracts, bacterial lysates, biological materials, and the like.
  • botanical extracts may contain DNA repair enzymes.
  • compositions of the invention may contain one or more DNA repair enzymes.
  • the composition may contain other ingredients that will provide a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable product.
  • the composition of the invention may be in the form of an emulsion, aqueous solution or dispersion, gel, or anhydrous composition. If in the form of an emulsion, it may be a water in oil or oil in water emulsion. If in the form of an emulsion, the composition may contain from about 1-99%, preferably from about 5-90%, more preferably from about 10-85% water and from about 1-99%, preferably from about 5-90%, more preferably from about 5-75% of oil. If in the form of an aqueous suspension or dispersion, the composition may generally contain from about 1-99.9%, preferably from about 5-95%, more preferably from about 10-90% water, with the remaining ingredients being the active ingredients or other formula ingredients.
  • the composition may contain one or more humectants. If present, they may range from about 0.1 to 75%, preferably from about 0.5 to 70%, more preferably from about 0.5 to 40%.
  • suitable humectants include glycols, sugars, and the like.
  • Suitable glycols are in monomeric or polymeric form and include polyethylene and polypropylene glycols such as PEG 4-10, which are polyethylene glycols having from 4 to 10 repeating ethylene oxide units; as well as C 1-6 alkylene glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, and the like.
  • Suitable sugars some of which are also polyhydric alcohols, are also suitable humectants.
  • sugars examples include glucose, fructose, honey, hydrogenated honey, inositol, maltose, mannitol, maltitol, sorbitol, sucrose, xylitol, xylose, and so on.
  • urea is also suitable.
  • the humectants used in the composition of the invention are C 1-6 , preferably C 2-4 alkylene glycols, most particularly butylene glycol.
  • sunscreens include chemical UVA or UVB sunscreens or physical sunscreens in the particulate form. Inclusion of sunscreens in the compositions containing the whitening active ingredient will provide additional protection to skin during daylight hours and promote the effectiveness of the whitening active ingredient on the skin. If present, the sunscreens may range from about 0.1 to 50%, preferably from about 0.5 to 40%, more preferably from about 1 to 35%.
  • the composition may comprise one or more UVA sunscreens.
  • UVA sunscreen means a chemical compound that blocks UV radiation in the wavelength range of about 320 to 400 nm.
  • Preferred UVA sunscreens are dibenzoylmethane compounds having the general formula
  • R 1 is H, OR and NRR wherein each R is independently H, C 1-20 straight or branched chain alkyl; R 2 is H or OH; and R 3 is H, C 1-20 straight or branched chain alkyl.
  • R 1 is OR where R is a C 1-20 straight or branched alkyl, preferably methyl; R 2 is H; and R 3 is a C 1-20 straight or branched chain alkyl, more preferably, butyl.
  • UVA sunscreen compounds of this general formula include 4-methyldibenzoylmethane, 2-methyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane, 2,4-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 2,5-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 4,4′diisopropylbenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 4,4′-diisopropylbenzoylmethane, 2-methyl-5-isopropyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-methyl-5-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane, and so on.
  • Avobenzone is 4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane, also referred to as Avobenzone.
  • Avobenzone is commercially available from Givaudan-Roure under the trademark Parsol® 1789, and Merck & Co. under the tradename Eusolex® 9020.
  • UVA sunscreens include dicamphor sulfonic acid derivatives, such as ecamsule, a sunscreen sold under the trade name Mexoryl®, which is terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, having the formula:
  • the composition may contain from about 0.001-20%, preferably 0.005-5%, more preferably about 0.005-3% by weight of the composition of UVA sunscreen.
  • the UVA sunscreen is Avobenzone, and it is present at not greater than about 3% by weight of the total composition.
  • UVB sunscreen means a compound that blocks UV radiation in the wavelength range of from about 290 to 320 nm.
  • alpha-cyano-beta,beta-diphenyl acrylic acid ester is Octocrylene, which is 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate.
  • the composition may contain no more than about 10% by weight of the total composition of octocrylene. Suitable amounts range from about 0.001-10% by weight.
  • Octocrylene may be purchased from BASF under the tradename Uvinul® N-539.
  • benzylidene camphor derivatives as set forth in U.S. Pat. No. 3,781,417, which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety.
  • Such benzylidene camphor derivatives have the general formula:
  • R is p-tolyl or styryl, preferably styryl.
  • Particularly preferred is 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, which is a lipid soluble UVB sunscreen compound sold under the tradename Eusolex 6300 by Merck.
  • R and R 1 are each independently a C 1-20 straight or branched chain alkyl. Preferred is where R is methyl and R 1 is a branched chain C 1-10 , preferably C 8 alkyl.
  • the preferred compound is ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, also referred to as Octoxinate or octyl methoxycinnamate.
  • the compound may be purchased from Givaudan Corporation under the tradename Parsol® MCX, or BASF under the tradename Uvinul® MC 80.
  • Cinoxate the aromatic ether derivative of the above compound is also acceptable. If present, the Cinoxate should be found at no more than about 3% by weight of the total composition.
  • UVB screening agents are various benzophenone derivatives having the general formula:
  • R through R 9 are each independently H, OH, NaO 3 S, SO 3 H, SO 3 Na, Cl, R′′, OR′′ where R′′ is C 1-20 straight or branched chain alkyl
  • R′′ is C 1-20 straight or branched chain alkyl
  • the benzophenone derivative is Benzophenone 3 (also referred to as Oxybenzone), Benzophenone 4 (also referred to as Sulisobenzone), Benzophenone 5 (Sulisobenzone Sodium), and the like. Most preferred is Benzophenone 3.
  • menthyl salicylate derivatives having the general formula:
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 are each independently H, OH, NH 2 , or C 1-20 straight or branched chain alkyl. Particularly preferred is where R 1 , R 2 , and R 3 are methyl and R 4 is hydroxyl or NH 2 , the compound having the name homomenthyl salicylate (also known as Homosalate) or menthyl anthranilate.
  • homomenthyl salicylate also known as Homosalate
  • Menthyl anthranilate is commercially available from Merck under the trademark Eusolex® HMS and menthyl anthranilate is commercially available from Haarmann & Reimer under the trademark Heliopan®. If present, the Homosalate should be found at no more than about 15% by weight of the total composition.
  • UVB absorbers including those having the general formula:
  • R 1 , R 2 , and R 3 are each independently H, C 1-20 straight or branched chain alkyl which may be substituted with one or more hydroxy groups. Particularly preferred is wherein R 1 is H or C 1-8 straight or branched alkyl, and R 2 and R 3 are H, or C 1-8 straight or branched chain alkyl. Particularly preferred are PABA, ethyl hexyl dimethyl PABA (Padimate O), ethyldihydroxypropyl PABA, and the like. If present Padimate O should be found at no more than about 8% by weight of the total composition.
  • Salicylate derivatives are also acceptable UVB absorbers. Such compounds have the general formula: wherein R is a straight or branched chain alkyl, including derivatives of the above compound formed from mono-, di-, or triethanolamines. Particular preferred are octyl salicylate, TEA-salicylate, DEA-salicylate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the UVB chemical sunscreen present may range from about 0.001-45%, preferably 0.005-40%, more preferably about 0.01-35% by weight of the total composition.
  • compositions of the invention may be formulated to have a certain SPF (sun protective factor) values ranging from about 1-50, preferably about 2-45, most preferably about 5-30. Calculation of SPF values is well known in the art.
  • the composition may contain one more surfactants, especially if in the emulsion form.
  • surfactants may be used if the compositions are solutions, suspensions, or anhydrous also, and will assist in dispersing ingredients that have polarity, for example pigments.
  • Such surfactants may be silicone or organic based.
  • the surfactants will also aid in the formation of stable emulsions of either the water-in-oil or oil-in-water form. If present, the surfactant may range from about 0.001 to 30%, preferably from about 0.005 to 25%, more preferably from about 0.1 to 20% by weight of the total composition.
  • the composition may comprise one or more nonionic organic surfactants.
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants include alkoxylated alcohols or ethers, formed by the reaction of an alcohol with an alkylene oxide, usually ethylene or propylene oxide.
  • Suitable alcohols include mono-, di-, or polyhydric short chain (C1-6) alcohols; aromatic or aliphatic saturated or unsaturated fatty (C12-40) alcohols, of cholesterol; and so on.
  • the alcohol is cholesterol, or an aromatic or aliphatic saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohol which may have from 6 to 40, preferably from about 10 to 30, more preferably from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • examples include oleyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and the like.
  • examples of such ingredients include Oleth 2-100; Steareth 2-100; Beheneth 5-30; Ceteareth 2-100; Ceteth 2-100; Choleth 2-100 wherein the number range means the number of repeating ethylene oxide units, e.g. Ceteth 2-100 means Ceteth where the number of repeating ethylene oxide units ranges from 2 to 100.
  • Derivatives of alkoxylated alcohols are also suitable, such as phosphoric acid esters thereof.
  • Some preferred organic nonionic surfactants include Oleth-3, Oleth-5, Oleth-3 phosphate, Choleth-24; Ceteth-24; and so on.
  • alkoxylated alcohols formed with mono-, di-, or polyhydric short chain alcohols, for example those having from about 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • alkoxylated alcohols formed with mono-, di-, or polyhydric short chain alcohols, for example those having from about 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • Examples include glucose, glycerin, or alkylated derivatives thereof.
  • Examples include glycereth 2-100; gluceth 2-100; methyl gluceth 2-100 and so on. More preferred are methyl gluceth-20; glycereth-26 and the like.
  • alkoxylated alcohols are suitable surfactants, including ethylene oxide polymers having varying numbers of repeating EO groups, generally referred to as PEG 12 to 200. More preferred are PEG-75, which is may be purchased from Dow Chemical under the trade name Carbowax PEG-3350.
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants include alkoxylated sorbitan and alkoxylated sorbitan derivatives.
  • alkoxylation, in particular ethoxylation of sorbitan provides polyalkoxylated sorbitan derivatives.
  • Esterification of polyalkoxylated sorbitan provides sorbitan esters such as the polysorbates.
  • the polyalkoxylated sorbitan can be esterified with C6-30, preferably C12-22 fatty acids. Examples of such ingredients include Polysorbates 20-85, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan stearate, and so on.
  • silicone or silane-based surfactants include organosiloxanes substituted with ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups such as PEG dimethicones which are dimethicones substituted with polyethylene glycols including those having the INCI names PEG-1 dimethicone; PEG-4 dimethicone; PEG-8 dimethicone; PEG-12 dimethicone; PEG-20 dimethicone; and so on.
  • organosiloxanes substituted with ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups such as PEG dimethicones which are dimethicones substituted with polyethylene glycols including those having the INCI names PEG-1 dimethicone; PEG-4 dimethicone; PEG-8 dimethicone; PEG-12 dimethicone; PEG-20 dimethicone; and so on.
  • silanes substituted with ethoxy groups or propoxy groups or both such as various types of PEG methyl ether silanes such as bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane; and so on.
  • silicone based surfactants include those having the generic names dimethicone copolyol; cetyl dimethicone copolyol; and so on.
  • Suitable botanical extracts include extracts from plants (herbs, roots, flowers, fruits, seeds) such as flowers, fruits, vegetables, and so on, including yeast ferment extract, Padina Pavonica extract, Thermus Thermophilis ferment extract, Camelina Sativa seed oil, Boswellia Serrata extract, olive extract, Acacia Dealbata extract, Acer Saccharinum (sugar maple), Acidopholus, Acorus, Aesculus, Agaricus, Agave, Agrimonia , algae, aloe, citrus, Brassica , cinnamon, orange, apple, blueberry, cranberry, peach, pear, lemon, lime, pea, seaweed, caffeine, green tea, chamomile, willowbark, mulberry, poppy, and those set forth on pages 1646 through 1660 of plants (herbs, roots, flowers, fruits, seeds) such as flowers, fruits, vegetables, and so on, including yeast ferment extract, Padina Pavonica extract, Thermus Thermophilis ferment extract,
  • Glycyrrhiza Glabra Salix Nigra, Macrocycstis Pyrifera, Pyrus Malus, Saxifraga Sarmentosa, Vitis Vinifera, Morus Nigra, Scutellaria Baicalensis, Anthemis Nobilis, Salvia Sclarea, Rosmarinus Officianalis, Citrus Medica Limonum, Panax Ginseng, Siegesbeckia Orientalis, Fructus Mume, Ascophyllum Nodosum, Glycine Soja extract, Beta Vulgaris, Haberlea Rhodopensis, Polygonum Cuspidatum, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis, Vitis Vinifera, Selaginella Tamariscina, Humulus Lupulus, Citrus Reticulata Peel, Punica Granatum, Asparagopsis, Curcuma Longa, Menyanthes Trifoliata, Helianthus Annuus, Hordeum Vulgare, Cucum
  • RNA fragments are also suitable.
  • biological materials such as those derived from cells, fermented materials, and so on. If present such materials may range from about 0.001 to 30%, preferably from about 0.005 to 25%, more preferably from about 0.01 to 20%. Examples include fragments of cellular RNA or DNA, or probiotic microorganisms. Particularly preferred are RNA fragments.
  • the aqueous phase may contain one or more aqueous phase structuring agents, that is, an agent that increases the viscosity or, or thickens, the aqueous phase of the composition.
  • aqueous phase structuring agent that is, an agent that increases the viscosity or, or thickens, the aqueous phase of the composition.
  • Suitable ranges of aqueous phase structuring agent are from about 0.01 to 30%, preferably from about 0.1 to 20%, more preferably from about 0.5 to 15% by weight of the total composition.
  • examples of such agents include various acrylate based thickening agents, natural or synthetic gums, polysaccharides, and the like, including but not limited to those set forth below.
  • Polysaccharides may be suitable aqueous phase thickening agents.
  • polysaccharides include naturally derived materials such as agar, agarose, alicaligenes polysaccharides, algin, alginic acid, acacia gum, amylopectin, chitin, dextran, cassia gum, cellulose gum, gelatin, gellan gum, hyaluronic acid, hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, pectin, sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, pectin, trehelose, gelatin, and so on.
  • One type includes acrylic polymeric thickeners comprised of monomers A and B wherein A is selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and mixtures thereof, and B is selected from the group consisting of a C 1-22 alkyl acrylate, a C 1-22 alkyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof are suitable.
  • the A monomer comprises one or more of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid
  • the B monomer is selected from the group consisting of a C 1-10 , most preferably C 1-4 alkyl acrylate, a C 1-10 , most preferably C 1-4 alkyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the B monomer is one or more of methyl or ethyl acrylate or methacrylate.
  • the acrylic copolymer may be supplied in an aqueous solution having a solids content ranging from about 10-60%, preferably 20-50%, more preferably 25-45% by weight of the polymer, with the remainder water.
  • the composition of the acrylic copolymer may contain from about 0.1-99 parts of the A monomer, and about 0.1-99 parts of the B monomer.
  • Acrylic polymer solutions include those sold by Seppic, Inc., under the tradename Capigel.
  • acrylic polymeric thickeners that are copolymer of A, B, and C monomers wherein A and B are as defined above, and C has the general formula:
  • Z is —(CH 2 ) m ; wherein m is 1-10, n is 2-3, o is 2-200, and R is a C 10-30 straight or branched chain alkyl.
  • Examples of the secondary thickening agent above are copolymers where A and B are defined as above, and C is CO, and wherein n, o, and R are as above defined.
  • Examples of such secondary thickening agents include acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, which is sold by Rohm & Haas under the tradename Acrysol ICS-1.
  • acrylate based anionic amphiphilic polymers containing at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one allyl ether unit containing a fatty chain.
  • the hydrophilic unit contains an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer, more specifically a vinyl carboxylic acid such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof, and where the allyl ether unit containing a fatty chain corresponds to the monomer of formula CH 2 ⁇ CR′CH 2 OB n R in which R′ denotes H or CH 3 , B denotes the ethylenoxy radical, n is zero or an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R denotes a hydrocarbon radical selected from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl radicals which contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24, and even more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • R′ denotes H
  • n is equal to 10
  • R denotes a stearyl (C 18) radical.
  • Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,677,152 and 4,702,844, both of which are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety.
  • anionic amphiphilic polymers polymers formed of 20 to 60% by weight acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid, of 5 to 60% by weight lower alkyl methacrylates, of 2 to 50% by weight allyl ether containing a fatty chain as mentioned above, and of 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl(meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.
  • a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl(meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.
  • polymers are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate, of polyethylene glycol (having 10 EO units) ether of stearyl alcohol or steareth-10, in particular those sold by the company Allied Colloids under the names SALCARE SC80 and SALCARE SC90, which are aqueous emulsions containing 30% of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and of steareth-10 allyl ether (40/50/10).
  • acrylate copolymers such as Polyacrylate-3 which is a copolymer of methacrylic acid, methylmethacrylate, methylstyrene isopropylisocyanate, and PEG-40 behenate monomers; Polyacrylate-10 which is a copolymer of sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate, sodium acrylate, acrylamide and vinyl pyrrolidone monomers; or Polyacrylate-11, which is a copolymer of sodium acryloyldimethylacryloyldimethyl taurate, sodium acrylate, hydroxyethyl acrylate, lauryl acrylate, butyl acrylate, and acrylamide monomers.
  • Polyacrylate-3 which is a copolymer of methacrylic acid, methylmethacrylate, methylstyrene isopropylisocyanate, and PEG-40 behenate monomers
  • Polyacrylate-10 which is a copolymer of sodium acryloyldi
  • crosslinked acrylate based polymers where one or more of the acrylic groups may have substituted long chain alkyl (such as 6-40, 10-30, and the like) groups, for example acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer which is a copolymer of C10-30 alkyl acrylate and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or one of their simple esters crosslinked with the allyl ether of sucrose or the allyl ether of pentaerythritol.
  • Such polymers are commonly sold under the Carbopol or Pemulen tradenames and have the CTFA name carbomer.
  • acrylate based polymeric thickeners sold by Clariant under the Aristoflex trademark such as Aristoflex AVC, which is ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer; Aristoflex AVL which is the same polymer has found in AVC dispersed in mixture containing caprylic/capric triglyceride, trilaureth-4, and polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate; or Aristoflex HMB which is ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, and the like.
  • Aristoflex AVC ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer
  • Aristoflex AVL which is the same polymer has found in AVC dispersed in mixture containing caprylic/capric triglyceride, trilaureth-4, and polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate
  • Aristoflex HMB ammonium acryloyldimethylt
  • aqueous phase thickening agents are various polyethylene glycols (PEG) derivatives where the degree of polymerization ranges from 1,000 to 200,000. Such ingredients are indicated by the designation “PEG” followed by the degree of polymerization in thousands, such as PEG-45M, which means PEG having 45,000 repeating ethylene oxide units.
  • PEG derivatives include PEG 2M, 5M, 7M, 9M, 14M, 20M, 23M, 25M, 45M, 65M, 90M, 115M, 160M, 180M, and the like.
  • polyglycerins which are repeating glycerin moieties where the number of repeating moieties ranges from 15 to 200, preferably from about 20-100.
  • suitable polyglycerins include those having the CFTA names polyglycerin-20, polyglycerin-40, and the like.
  • compositions of the invention are in emulsion form, the composition will comprise an oil phase.
  • Oily ingredients are desirable for the skin moisturizing and protective properties.
  • Suitable oils include silicones, esters, vegetable oils, synthetic oils, including but not limited to those set forth herein.
  • the oils may be volatile or nonvolatile, and are preferably in the form of a pourable liquid at room temperature.
  • volatile means that the oil has a measurable vapor pressure, or a vapor pressure of at least about 2 mm. of mercury at 20° C.
  • nonvolatile means that the oil has a vapor pressure of less than about 2 mm. of mercury at 20° C.
  • Suitable volatile oils generally have a viscosity ranging from about 0.5 to 5 centistokes 25° C. and include linear silicones, cyclic silicones, paraffinic hydrocarbons, or mixtures thereof.
  • Cyclic silicones are one type of volatile silicone that may be used in the composition. Such silicones have the general formula:
  • n 3-6, preferably 4, 5, or 6.
  • Cyclic and linear volatile silicones are available from various commercial sources including Dow Corning Corporation and General Electric.
  • the Dow Corning linear volatile silicones are sold under the tradenames Dow Corning 244, 245, 344, and 200 fluids. These fluids include hexamethyldisiloxane (viscosity 0.65 centistokes (abbreviated cst)), octamethyltrisiloxane (1.0 cst), decamethyltetrasiloxane (1.5 cst), dodecamethylpentasiloxane (2 cst) and mixtures thereof, with all viscosity measurements being at 25° C.
  • cst centistokes
  • Suitable branched volatile silicones include alkyl trimethicones such as methyl trimethicone, a branched volatile silicone having the general formula:
  • Methyl trimethicone may be purchased from Shin-Etsu Silicones under the tradename TMF-1.5, having a viscosity of 1.5 centistokes at 25° C.
  • volatile oils are various straight or branched chain paraffinic hydrocarbons having 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, or 20 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • Suitable hydrocarbons include pentane, hexane, heptane, decane, dodecane, tetradecane, tridecane, and C 8-20 isoparaffins as disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,439,088 and 3,818,105, both of which are hereby incorporated by reference.
  • Preferred volatile paraffinic hydrocarbons have a molecular weight of 70-225, preferably 160 to 190 and a boiling point range of 30 to 320, preferably 60 to 260° C., and a viscosity of less than about 10 cst. at 25° C.
  • Such paraffinic hydrocarbons are available from EXXON under the ISOPARS trademark, and from the Permethyl Corporation.
  • Suitable C 12 isoparaffins are manufactured by Permethyl Corporation under the tradename Permethyl 99A.
  • nonvolatile oils are also suitable for use in the compositions of the invention.
  • the nonvolatile oils generally have a viscosity of greater than about 5 to 10 centistokes at 25° C., and may range in viscosity up to about 1,000,000 centipoise at 25° C.
  • examples of nonvolatile oils include, but are not limited to:
  • Suitable esters are mono-, di-, and triesters.
  • the composition may comprise one or more esters selected from the group, or mixtures thereof.
  • Monoesters are defined as esters formed by the reaction of a monocarboxylic acid having the formula R—COOH, wherein R is a straight or branched chain saturated or unsaturated alkyl having 2 to 45 carbon atoms, or phenyl; and an alcohol having the formula R—OH wherein R is a straight or branched chain saturated or unsaturated alkyl having 2-30 carbon atoms, or phenyl. Both the alcohol and the acid may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Either one or both of the acid or alcohol may be a “fatty” acid or alcohol, and may have from about 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12, 14, 16, 18, or 22 carbon atoms in straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated form.
  • monoester oils examples include hexyl laurate, butyl isostearate, hexadecyl isostearate, cetyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, stearyl heptanoate, isostearyl isononanoate, steary lactate, stearyl octanoate, stearyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, and so on.
  • Suitable diesters are the reaction product of a dicarboxylic acid and an aliphatic or aromatic alcohol or an aliphatic or aromatic alcohol having at least two substituted hydroxyl groups and a monocarboxylic acid.
  • the dicarboxylic acid may contain from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and may be in the straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated form.
  • the dicarboxylic acid may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.
  • the aliphatic or aromatic alcohol may also contain 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and may be in the straight or branched chain, saturated, or unsaturated form.
  • one or more of the acid or alcohol is a fatty acid or alcohol, i.e. contains 12-22 carbon atoms.
  • the dicarboxylic acid may also be an alpha hydroxy acid.
  • the ester may be in the dimer or trimer form.
  • diester oils that may be used in the compositions of the invention include diisotearyl malate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, dibutyl sebacate, dicetearyl dimer dilinoleate, dicetyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, diisononyl adipate, diisostearyl dimer dilinoleate, diisostearyl fumarate, diisostearyl malate, dioctyl malate, and so on.
  • Suitable triesters comprise the reaction product of a tricarboxylic acid and an aliphatic or aromatic alcohol or alternatively the reaction product of an aliphatic or aromatic alcohol having three or more substituted hydroxyl groups with a monocarboxylic acid.
  • the acid and alcohol contain 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and may be saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain, and may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.
  • one or more of the acid or alcohol is a fatty acid or alcohol containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • triesters include esters of arachidonic, citric, or behenic acids, such as triarachidin, tributyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, tri C 12-13 alkyl citrate, tricaprylin, tricaprylyl citrate, tridecyl behenate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, tridecyl behenate; or tridecyl cocoate, tridecyl isononanoate, and so on.
  • esters of arachidonic, citric, or behenic acids such as triarachidin, tributyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, tri C 12-13 alkyl citrate, tricaprylin, tricaprylyl citrate, tridecyl behenate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, tridecyl behenate; or tridecyl cocoate, tridecyl isononanoate, and so on.
  • Esters suitable for use in the composition are further described in the C.T.F.A. Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Eleventh Edition, 2006, under the classification of “Esters”, the text of which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety.
  • nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils include paraffinic hydrocarbons and olefins, preferably those having greater than about 20 carbon atoms.
  • hydrocarbon oils include C 24-28 olefins, C 30-45 olefins, C 20-40 isoparaffins, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisobutene, polydecene, hydrogenated polydecene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, squalene, squalane, and mixtures thereof.
  • such hydrocarbons have a molecular weight ranging from about 300 to 1000 Daltons.
  • Synthetic or naturally occurring glyceryl esters of fatty acids, or triglycerides are also suitable for use in the compositions. Both vegetable and animal sources may be used. Examples of such oils include castor oil, lanolin oil, C 10-18 triglycerides, caprylic/capric/triglycerides, sweet almond oil, apricot kernel oil, sesame oil, camelina sativa oil, tamanu seed oil, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, linseed oil, ink oil, olive oil, palm oil, illipe butter, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sunflower seed oil, walnut oil, and the like.
  • oils include castor oil, lanolin oil, C 10-18 triglycerides, caprylic/capric/triglycerides, sweet almond oil, apricot kernel oil, sesame oil, camelina sativa oil, tamanu seed oil, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, lin
  • glyceryl esters such as fatty acid mono-, di-, and triglycerides which are natural fats or oils that have been modified, for example, mono-, di- or triesters of polyols such as glycerin.
  • a fatty (C 12-22 ) carboxylic acid is reacted with one or more repeating glyceryl groups.
  • glyceryl stearate diglyceryl diiosostearate, polyglyceryl-3 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 ricinoleate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl diisotearate, glyceryl tetraisostearate, glyceryl trioctanoate, diglyceryl distearate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl isostearate, PEG castor oils, PEG glyceryl oleates, PEG glyceryl stearates, PEG glyceryl tallowates, and so on.
  • Nonvolatile silicone oils both water soluble and water insoluble, are also suitable for use in the composition.
  • Such silicones preferably have a viscosity ranging from about greater than 5 to 800,000 cst, preferably 20 to 200,000 cst at 25° C.
  • Suitable water insoluble silicones include amine functional silicones such as amodimethicone.
  • nonvolatile silicones may have the following general formula:
  • R and R′ are each independently C 1-30 straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, phenyl or aryl, trialkylsiloxy, and x and y are each independently 1-1,000,000; with the proviso that there is at least one of either x or y, and A is alkyl siloxy endcap unit.
  • A is a methyl siloxy endcap unit; in particular trimethylsiloxy, and R and R′ are each independently a C 1-30 straight or branched chain alkyl, phenyl, or trimethylsiloxy, more preferably a C 1-22 alkyl, phenyl, or trimethylsiloxy, most preferably methyl, phenyl, or trimethylsiloxy, and resulting silicone is dimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, or trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone.
  • alkyl dimethicones such as cetyl dimethicone, and the like wherein at least one R is a fatty alkyl (C 12, C 14 , C 16 , C 18 , C 20 , or C 22 ), and the other R is methyl, and A is a trimethylsiloxy endcap unit, provided such alkyl dimethicone is a pourable liquid at room temperature.
  • Phenyl trimethicone can be purchased from Dow Corning Corporation under the tradename 556 Fluid.
  • Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone can be purchased from Wacker-Chemie under the tradename PDM-1000.
  • Cetyl dimethicone also referred to as a liquid silicone wax, may be purchased from Dow Corning as Fluid 2502, or from DeGussa Care & Surface Specialties under the trade names Abil Wax 9801, or 9814.
  • vitamins or antioxidants may be desirable to incorporate one or more vitamins or antioxidants in the compositions. If present, suggested ranges are from about 0.001 to 20%, preferably from about 0.005 to 15%, more preferably from about 0.010 to 10%.
  • vitamins, vitamin derivatives and/or antioxidants are operable to scavenge free radicals in the form of singlet oxygen.
  • Such vitamins may include tocopherol or its derivatives such as tocopherol acetate, tocopherol ferulate; ascorbic acid or its derivatives such as ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate; Vitamin A or its derivatives such as retinyl palmitate; or vitamins D, K, B, or derivatives thereof.
  • compositions are in the aqueous solution or emulsion form and contain at least one nonionic organic surfactant, at least one chemical sunscreen, at least one CLOCK or PER1 gene activator, at least one DNA repair enzyme, at least one additional botanical extract, and at least one oil.
  • the nonionic organic surfactant is an alkoxylated alcohol
  • the chemical sunscreen is a UVB sunscreen
  • the CLOCK or PER1 keratinocyte gene activator is Tripeptide-32
  • the DNA repair enzyme is a mixture of Arabidopsis Thaliana extract, Micrococcus lysate, Bifida Ferment lysate, Lactobacillus ferment, and Plankton extract
  • the at least one oil is an organic ester or hydrocarbon.
  • the invention is also directed to method for inhibiting damage to human keratinocytes, preferably facial keratinocytes, which occurs in response to environmental aggressors by applying a composition comprising at least one keratinocyte CLOCK or PER1 gene activator and at least one DNA repair enzyme; and a method for repairing DNA damage to human keratinocytes due to such aggressors by applying the composition of the invention.
  • the keratinocyte damage that is inhibited and/or repaired includes damage from UV light, cigarette smoke, environmental pollution or toxins, stress, and the like.
  • Application of the composition of the invention will repair damaged DNA in keratinocytes due to any of the above conditions, and will also improve keratinocyte viability and longevity.
  • the composition may be applied to skin one or more times per day.
  • the composition may be applied to skin in the morning prior to beginning daily activities and/or at night prior to retiring.
  • the composition may be applied as part of a regimen; that is, the skin is cleansed and treated with toner, after which the composition of the invention is applied.
  • the composition may be part of a kit containing a cleanser, toner, and the composition of the invention.
  • the composition is applied to the face and/or neck and décolletage prior to retiring to repair DNA damaged keratinocytes and provide general improvement of the skin.
  • the CLOCK and PER1 gene activators in the composition will activate keratinocyte genes at a time when they would be less active or inactive in the normal circadian rhythm cycle. In turn, such activation of the CLOCK and PER1 genes at this time promotes improved repair of DNA damaged keratinocytes. This in turn promotes cellular viability and longevity. Thus, maximum repair of human keratinocytes is accomplished.
  • Combining the CLOCK and PER1 gene activators with DNA repair enzymes in a composition used to treat facial skin at night prior to retiring maximizes the keratinocyte repair due to DNA damage and also promotes cellular viability, longevity, and health.
  • a skin treatment composition was prepared as follows:
  • the composition was prepared by combining the ingredients and mixing well to form a liquid.
  • the composition was stored in brown glass bottles.
  • CLOCK and PER1 genes in human keratinocytes were activated by exposing the keratinocytes to Chronolux®, then exposing the cells to UV light to ascertain the impact of gene activation on keratinocytes exposed to UV light.
  • Cells were assayed for viability the next day utilizing MTS reagent (CellTiter96, Promega), 100 ul per well. Absorbance readings were taken on the SpectraMax190 spectrophotometer (Molecular Devices) at 490 nm following an approximate two hour incubation at 37° C. in 5% CO 2 .
  • HEKn Human keratinocytes
  • Keratinocytes were pretreated with 1 mg/ml solution of Chronolux® (1 mg/ml aqueous solution), and with a mixture containing 1 mg/ml Chronolux®, 10% Bifidus Ferment lysate, 1% Adasomes® (a mixture of 98.26% water, 0.5% lecithin, 0.5% Lactobacillus ferment, 0.375% phenoxyethanol, 0.04% sorbic acid, and 0.325% caprylyl glycol) and 1% Roxisomes® (a mixture of 98% water, 0.5% lecithin, and 0.1% phenoxyethanol) in aqueous solution. This mixture was tested undiluted and at dilutions of 1:2, 1:4, and 1:8.
  • the treated keratinocytes were incubated overnight at 37° C. in 5% CO 2 . After 24 hours, the cells were aspirated and keratinocytes were washed once in PBS, after which 100 ⁇ l of PBS was added to each well. The cells were UVB irradiated at 150 mJ/cm 2 . After the irradiation, the PBS was removed; the keratinocytes were again pretreated as previously set forth and incubated overnight at 37° C. in 5% CO 2 .
  • Cells were assayed for viability the next day utilizing MTS reagent (CellTiter96, Promega). Absorbance readings were taken on the SpectraMax190 spectrophotometer (Molecular Devices) at 490 nm following an approximate two hour incubation at 37° C.; 5% CO 2 .
  • HEKn Human keratinocytes
  • Epilife® Medium with Human Keratinocyte Growth Supplement.
  • the cells were sub-cultured at approximately 70% confluence in a 96-well plate (Costar) and allowed to incubate overnight at 37° C.
  • Keratinocytes were pretreated with Bifidus Ferment Lysate (12.4% aqueous solution) by itself (Previous ANR), and a mixture of Bifidus Ferment Lysate (12.4%), Chronolux® (1 mg/ml), Adasomes® (0.05%) and Roxisomes® (0.05%) diluted in Epilife® media.
  • Treated keratinocytes were incubated at 37° C. in 5% CO 2 . After 24 hours, cells were aspirated and keratinocytes were washed once in Dulbecco's PBS after which 100 ⁇ l of PBS was added to each well. The cells were subjected to UVB irradiation at 150 & 200 mJ/cm 2 UVB. After the irradiation, the PBS was removed. The pretreatment was repeated and the keratinocytes incubated for approximately 30 hrs at 37° C. in 5% CO 2 .
  • Cells were assayed for viability the next day utilizing MTS reagent (CellTiter96, Promega). Absorbance readings were taken on the SpectraMax190 spectrophotometer (Molecular Devices) at 490 nm following an approximate two hour incubation at 37° C.; 5% CO 2 .

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US12/489,619 US8703161B2 (en) 2007-08-13 2009-06-23 Skin repair compositions comprising circadian gene activators and a synergistic combination of Sirt1 gene activators
EP10739214.4A EP2396019B1 (en) 2009-02-09 2010-02-08 Method and compositions for treating skin
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ES10739214.4T ES2582210T3 (es) 2009-02-09 2010-02-08 Procedimiento y composiciones para tratar la piel
KR1020117018501A KR101372130B1 (ko) 2009-02-09 2010-02-08 피부 치료 방법 및 조성물
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AU2010210443A AU2010210443B2 (en) 2009-02-09 2010-02-08 Method and compositions for treating skin
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