US774370A - Dress-stand figure. - Google Patents
Dress-stand figure. Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- US774370A US774370A US20890404A US1904208904A US774370A US 774370 A US774370 A US 774370A US 20890404 A US20890404 A US 20890404A US 1904208904 A US1904208904 A US 1904208904A US 774370 A US774370 A US 774370A
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- United States
- Prior art keywords
- core
- dummy
- springs
- fitting
- filling material
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Lifetime
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H5/00—Dress forms; Bust forms; Stands
- A41H5/01—Dress forms; Bust forms; Stands with means for adjustment, e.g. of height
Definitions
- the object of this invention is to produce a dummy for use by dressmakers and others which will accommodate itself to almost any shape no matter what the pose of the person may be, whether he or she has a slight stoop or is a more than usually erect figure or has sloping or square shoulders, &c., and will also accommodate itself to almost any size smaller or larger than the dummy in use (within reason) no matter whether the person is of slight or full build, (of course when there is a great variation in the measurements a larger or smaller dummy may be used, if desired,) the dummy being so made that it conforms in shape to whatever closely-fitting bodice or lining is placed upon it.
- This closely-fitting bodice or lining is therefore made to suit and fit the individual customer, and when the closely-fitting bodice or lining is removed from the dummy the latter resumes its original form.
- a dummy having a light adjustable core attached to a base-plate and provided at the top with an enlarged cap.
- This core is provided with a number of springs placed where there is a large body of filling material (hereinafter mentioned) required, the object being to overcome the tendency which the filling material has of losing its elasticity.
- This core with the springs and base-plate, forms the foundation of the dummy and while giving suificient support will not prevent the model from adjusting itself to the size and shape of the closely-fitting lining or bodice which may be placed on it.
- An outer covering or skin which conforms to the human figure is placed over this core and the intervening space filled up with a mixture of kapok and cocoanut fiber or some suitable soft material.
- the arms which are adjustably attached to the dummy by any suitable means, are made in two sec tions, jointed together at the elbow, of some soft outer covering or skin, conforming to the human shape, and would be filled with the filling material hereinbefore mentioned, each section being divided into a number of compartments.
- the outline of the invention is indicative that it is to be applied to dummies for making dresses for women; but it will be understood that it may be readily applied to dummies for mens clothing.
- Figure 1 is a front view of a bodice-dummy, partly in section and partly in elevation, a portion of one arm being removed.
- Fig. 2 is a side sectional elevation of same, part being in elevation.
- Fig. 3 is a transverse section on line X X, Figs. 1 and 2.
- Fig. 4 is a side view of one of the arms.
- Fig. 5 shows the dummy as applied to a pedestal for fitting bodices and skirts or skirts alone.
- the dummy constructed according to my invention consists of the following parts viz., the core A A, springs A A A the baseplate A the outer skin B, and filling material C.
- This core is provided with a number of spiral springs placed where there is a large body of filling material required, the object being to overcome the tendency which the filling material (hereinbefore mentioned) has of losing its elasticity.
- the base-plate A which measures about three to five inches less than the hip measurement, is provided with a hole, as shown, to allow of the core being altered in height as desired and is preferably covered with some soft material in such a manner that no tacks or nails will be used on the outside surface.
- the outer skin B Over this core and having its lower edges sewed or otherwise fastened to the baseplate is the outer skin B.
- This outer skin B conforms to the human figure and is made in different types-such as, for instance, the full round bust with medium waist length suitable for the general figure, long waisted, rather flat figure, with hips not very pronounced, &c. each type being made in different sizes.
- a filling material C composed of kapok and cocoanut fiber mixed well together.
- This mixture of kapok and fiber gives softness, together with plasticity and cohesiveness, it stays in the position in which it is placed, and does not drop into spaces where it is not required.
- the ad dition of the springs before mentioned gives the resilience that is required, and this mixture remains in the coils of the springs and is pulled out or pressed in with the action of the springs and closely-fitting bodice.
- the outer skin can be provided with hooks and eyes or buttons down either the front or back in order to assist in the insertion of the filling material.
- the filling material in the space between the enlarged head of the core and the hip portion would be left loose and fairly easy to compress in order that the height of the core may be easily adjusted, while the shoulders, neck, and hips are packed fairly hard.
- the arms are made in two sections, joined together at the elbow, of some soft outer skin B, conforming to the human shape, and would be filled, as hereinbefore described, each section being divided into a number of compartments, so that the filling material connot settle down.
- This arm-piece is attached to the body of the dummy by any suitable means.
- the body is provided with an adjustable pin D in the armhole, (sliding in the enlarged cap,) which engages either one of a number of bars E, provided on a metal disk E.
- These metal disks E are circular in form, and the arm-pieces are attached to the upper half thereof.
- the dummy hereinbefore described When used for fitting bodices and skirts or skirts alone, the dummy hereinbefore described would be placed on a pedestal adjustable as to height, so that it can be raised or lowered according to the length of the skirt.
- the pedestal may be constructed in various ways, one method is shown in the drawings. As shown, it consistsof a threelegged base F, into the top of which slides a center rod G, which may be held at any desired height by means of a looking or thumb screw G. This center rod G is provided with a double cap H J, approximating the shape of thebase-board A of the dummy, but slightly smaller in size.
- the boards forming the double cap H J are so hinged together that they may be tilted up either at the front or back, (simple means, such as the thumbscrews K, being provided for the purpose of tilting,) so that the dummy may be given the correct pose for the skirt.
- a short rather stiff petticoat L is permanently attached to the cap of the pedestal or skirt-stand.
- the dummy is now ready for use, and on it may be placed the fitted lining,on which the outer materials are arranged for draping or design, or on it may be placed the finished bodice or skirt, so as to study the effect.
- the fitted lining may afterward be removed and placed away for future use for the same customer, while the dummy is ready for another lining.
- the size and shape are easily and quickly altered.
- the length of the waist is quickly adjusted, and the compressible nature of the dummy makes it at once conform in other respects to the shape and pose of the closely-fitting lining placed upon it.
- the dummy used is somewhat smaller in circumference than the bodice that is being fitted, a little soft muslin or other material will readily fill the space, and from the soft nature of the dummy the operation of filling is easily performed.
- the dummy in use is too large for the fitted lining the compressible nature of the former permits of it being easily compressed to the required size.
- a garment-form comprising an adjustable core, a base-plate, an outer covering and a filling of soft material between saidcore and said outer covering, spiral springs extending vertically and laterally from said core,between said core and outer covering, substantially as described.
- a garment-form the combination with an outer covering, and a base-plate, of a hollow inner core of rigid material, and spiral springs extending vertically and laterally from said core, between said core and outer covering, said core being formed of two telescopic oval tubes, the lower having the shape of the human hips, and the upper tube terminating in an enlarged cap, substantially as described.
- a garment-form comprising an adjustable core, a base-"plate, an outer covering and a filling of soft material between said core and said outer covering, spiral springs extending vertically and laterally from said core in combination with a pedestal or skirt-stand so constructed and arranged that the garment-form placed thereon may be tilted forward or backward, substantially as described.
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Details Of Garments (AREA)
- Orthopedics, Nursing, And Contraception (AREA)
Description
NO MODEL.
Fig-1- Wpzinexrem Maw APPLICATION FILED MAY 20, 1904.
' 2 SHEETS-SEBET 1.
Fig.2".
In v-e n Z07":
No. 774,370. I PATENTED NOV. 8. 1904.
, J. WALKER. DRESS STAND FIGURE.
APPLICATION FILED MAY 20, 1904.
N0 MODEL- ZSHEETS-SHEBT 2.
Fig.5-
v Inventor: A W zLi7zeJJeyx JL WMM fl %J f B! W UNITED STATES Patented November 8, 1904.
PATENT OEEicE.
JANET WVALKER, OF BRISBANE, QUEENSLAND, AUSTRALIA.
DRESS-STAND FIGURE.
SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 774,370, dated November 8, 1904.
Application filed May 20, 1904. Serial No. 208,904. (No model.)
To (til whom, it may concern:
which it appertains to make and use the same.
The object of this invention is to produce a dummy for use by dressmakers and others which will accommodate itself to almost any shape no matter what the pose of the person may be, whether he or she has a slight stoop or is a more than usually erect figure or has sloping or square shoulders, &c., and will also accommodate itself to almost any size smaller or larger than the dummy in use (within reason) no matter whether the person is of slight or full build, (of course when there is a great variation in the measurements a larger or smaller dummy may be used, if desired,) the dummy being so made that it conforms in shape to whatever closely-fitting bodice or lining is placed upon it. This closely-fitting bodice or lining is therefore made to suit and fit the individual customer, and when the closely-fitting bodice or lining is removed from the dummy the latter resumes its original form.
In carrying out my invention I make a dummy having a light adjustable core attached to a base-plate and provided at the top with an enlarged cap. This core is provided with a number of springs placed where there is a large body of filling material (hereinafter mentioned) required, the object being to overcome the tendency which the filling material has of losing its elasticity. This core, with the springs and base-plate, forms the foundation of the dummy and while giving suificient support will not prevent the model from adjusting itself to the size and shape of the closely-fitting lining or bodice which may be placed on it. An outer covering or skin which conforms to the human figure is placed over this core and the intervening space filled up with a mixture of kapok and cocoanut fiber or some suitable soft material. The arms, which are adjustably attached to the dummy by any suitable means, are made in two sec tions, jointed together at the elbow, of some soft outer covering or skin, conforming to the human shape, and would be filled with the filling material hereinbefore mentioned, each section being divided into a number of compartments.
The outline of the invention, as hereinbefore set forth and as hereinafter will be described, is indicative that it is to be applied to dummies for making dresses for women; but it will be understood that it may be readily applied to dummies for mens clothing.
I shall, however, describe my invention more fully in order that it may be better understood, reference being made to the'accompanying drawings, which illustrate only dummies for women.
Figure 1 is a front view of a bodice-dummy, partly in section and partly in elevation, a portion of one arm being removed. Fig. 2 is a side sectional elevation of same, part being in elevation. Fig. 3 is a transverse section on line X X, Figs. 1 and 2. Fig. 4 is a side view of one of the arms. Fig. 5 shows the dummy as applied to a pedestal for fitting bodices and skirts or skirts alone.
The dummy constructed according to my invention consists of the following parts viz., the core A A, springs A A A the baseplate A the outer skin B, and filling material C. I prefer to construct the core of two telescopic oval tubes A A, adjustably secured together, so that the height of the core may be altered as desired, the lower tube A, which conforms somewhat (at the bottom) to the shape of the human hips, being attached to the base-plate A while the upper part A terminates in an enlarged cap. This core is provided with a number of spiral springs placed where there is a large body of filling material required, the object being to overcome the tendency which the filling material (hereinbefore mentioned) has of losing its elasticity. I find it advisable to place one spring A on the top of the core on which to build the neck and also two springs A", of lighter tension, at each side thereof, on which to build the shoulders. I also place two springs A of similar light tension, in front of the core on which to build the bust and elsewhere where the depth of the filling material requires them. The top of the enlarged cap terminates just above the armpits, while the center spiral wire spring should enter the base of the neck, the shoulder-springs being a little shorter, The spiral springs should not be rigidly attached to the core, but by such means as will permit of them being moved as desired. The base-plate A which measures about three to five inches less than the hip measurement, is provided with a hole, as shown, to allow of the core being altered in height as desired and is preferably covered with some soft material in such a manner that no tacks or nails will be used on the outside surface. Over this core and having its lower edges sewed or otherwise fastened to the baseplate is the outer skin B. This outer skin B conforms to the human figure and is made in different types-such as, for instance, the full round bust with medium waist length suitable for the general figure, long waisted, rather flat figure, with hips not very pronounced, &c. each type being made in different sizes. Between the outer skin B and the core A A and between the coils of the springs .I fill up with a filling material C, composed of kapok and cocoanut fiber mixed well together. This mixture of kapok and fiber gives softness, together with plasticity and cohesiveness, it stays in the position in which it is placed, and does not drop into spaces where it is not required. The ad dition of the springs before mentioned gives the resilience that is required, and this mixture remains in the coils of the springs and is pulled out or pressed in with the action of the springs and closely-fitting bodice. Although I find this filling material gives the best result, other suitable soft filling may be used. The outer skin can be provided with hooks and eyes or buttons down either the front or back in order to assist in the insertion of the filling material. The filling material in the space between the enlarged head of the core and the hip portion would be left loose and fairly easy to compress in order that the height of the core may be easily adjusted, while the shoulders, neck, and hips are packed fairly hard.
Of course, as will be seen, although it is not possible to lay down any special proportion in the measurements of the tube of the core and waist of the completed dummy, 1 find the following most suitable, viz.: for waists of twenty to twenty-seven inches, a twelve-inchcore tube would be used; for waists of twentyseven to thirty-two inches, an eighteen-inchcore tube would be used.
In order to give each individual dummy a wider range of pose or figure, I find it better to make the core rather flat at the abdomen and buttocks, and provide a pair of pads made of a soft skin and containing the filling material hereinbeforc mentioned. Should the person be of ordinary build, one pad would be placed on the abdomen and buttocks, respectively, between the dummy and the fitting lining. Should the person have what is generally called a straight or erect form, both pads would be placed on the buttocks, while for persons having the abdomen more pronounced both pads would be placed thereon.
The arms are made in two sections, joined together at the elbow, of some soft outer skin B, conforming to the human shape, and would be filled, as hereinbefore described, each section being divided into a number of compartments, so that the filling material connot settle down. This arm-piece is attached to the body of the dummy by any suitable means. As shown, the body is provided with an adjustable pin D in the armhole, (sliding in the enlarged cap,) which engages either one of a number of bars E, provided on a metal disk E. These metal disks E are circular in form, and the arm-pieces are attached to the upper half thereof. By this construction the arm may be raised or lowered on the adjustable pin, and. it may be moved backward or forward, outward, and upward, while the adjustable pin allows of the arm being easily adjusted and fixed to the body.
In the description above given I have described the dummy as constructed for fitting linings and bodices; butof course it is understood that it can also be used for fitting skirts in addition to bodies and skirts without bodices. Also it can be readily adapted for fitting mens clothing. It will also be readily understood that the details may be varied without in any way departing from the invention.
When used for fitting bodices and skirts or skirts alone, the dummy hereinbefore described would be placed on a pedestal adjustable as to height, so that it can be raised or lowered according to the length of the skirt. Although the pedestal may be constructed in various ways, one method is shown in the drawings. As shown, it consistsof a threelegged base F, into the top of which slides a center rod G, which may be held at any desired height by means of a looking or thumb screw G. This center rod G is provided with a double cap H J, approximating the shape of thebase-board A of the dummy, but slightly smaller in size. The boards forming the double cap H J are so hinged together that they may be tilted up either at the front or back, (simple means, such as the thumbscrews K, being provided for the purpose of tilting,) so that the dummy may be given the correct pose for the skirt. A short rather stiff petticoat L is permanently attached to the cap of the pedestal or skirt-stand. The dummy is now ready for use, and on it may be placed the fitted lining,on which the outer materials are arranged for draping or design, or on it may be placed the finished bodice or skirt, so as to study the effect. The fitted lining may afterward be removed and placed away for future use for the same customer, while the dummy is ready for another lining.
In using the dummy the size and shape are easily and quickly altered. The length of the waist is quickly adjusted, and the compressible nature of the dummy makes it at once conform in other respects to the shape and pose of the closely-fitting lining placed upon it. If the dummy used is somewhat smaller in circumference than the bodice that is being fitted, a little soft muslin or other material will readily fill the space, and from the soft nature of the dummy the operation of filling is easily performed. On the other hand, if the dummy in use is too large for the fitted lining the compressible nature of the former permits of it being easily compressed to the required size.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim is- 1. A garment-form, comprising an adjustable core, a base-plate, an outer covering and a filling of soft material between saidcore and said outer covering, spiral springs extending vertically and laterally from said core,between said core and outer covering, substantially as described.
2. In a garment-form, the combination with an outer covering, and a base-plate, of a hollow inner core of rigid material, and spiral springs extending vertically and laterally from said core, between said core and outer covering, said core being formed of two telescopic oval tubes, the lower having the shape of the human hips, and the upper tube terminating in an enlarged cap, substantially as described.
3. In a core for garment-forms, the combination with the base-plate of a hollow base portion A secured to said base-plate, and having its upper edge open and an upper portion A having one end adapted to enter said base portion and means for adjustably securing the same therein, and springs extending vertically and laterally from upper portions, substantially as described.
f. In a garment-form, the combination with an adjustable core of rigid material and spiral springs extending laterally and vertically from said core, an outer covering of flexible material and filling of soft material between said core and said outer covering, of arms removably secured thereto, substantially as described.
5. A garment-form, comprising an adjustable core, a base-"plate, an outer covering and a filling of soft material between said core and said outer covering, spiral springs extending vertically and laterally from said core in combination with a pedestal or skirt-stand so constructed and arranged that the garment-form placed thereon may be tilted forward or backward, substantially as described.
In witness whereof I have hereunto set my hand in presence of two witnesses.
JANET WALKER.
Witnesses:
ALEXANDER ANDERSON, H. E. F. SHORTER'.
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
US20890404A US774370A (en) | 1904-05-20 | 1904-05-20 | Dress-stand figure. |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
US20890404A US774370A (en) | 1904-05-20 | 1904-05-20 | Dress-stand figure. |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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US774370A true US774370A (en) | 1904-11-08 |
Family
ID=2842855
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
US20890404A Expired - Lifetime US774370A (en) | 1904-05-20 | 1904-05-20 | Dress-stand figure. |
Country Status (1)
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US (1) | US774370A (en) |
-
1904
- 1904-05-20 US US20890404A patent/US774370A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
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