US751764A - No model - Google Patents

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US751764A
US751764A US751764DA US751764A US 751764 A US751764 A US 751764A US 751764D A US751764D A US 751764DA US 751764 A US751764 A US 751764A
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core
dummy
neck
outer covering
base
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H5/00Dress forms; Bust forms; Stands
    • A41H5/01Dress forms; Bust forms; Stands with means for adjustment, e.g. of height

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  • the object of this invention is to produce a dummy that will not only overcome all the various defects existing in the dummies now on the market, but will accommodate itself to almost any shape no matter what the pose of the person may be, whether she has a slight stoop, or is a more than usually erect figure, or has sloping or square shoulders, &c., and will also accommodate itself to almost any size smaller or larger than the dummy in use (within reason) no matter whether the person is of slight or full build, (of course when there is a great variation in the measurements alarger or smaller dummy may be used, if desired) the dummy being so made that it conforms in shape to whatever closely-fitting bodice or lining is placed upon it. This closely-fitting bodice or lining is therefore made to suit and fit the individual customer, and when the closely-fitting bodice or lining is removed from the dummy the latter resumes its original form.
  • the closely-fitting neck-piece is made separate from the dummy covering or skin and Serial No. 179,346. (No model.)
  • Figure l is a front elevation of a bodicedummy.
  • Fig. 2 is a side sectional elevation of same.
  • Fig. 3 is a detail showing a modified core.
  • Fig. 4 is a transverse section on line X X, Figs. 1, 2, 6, and 7.
  • Fig. 5 is a plan of the base-plate.
  • Fig. 6 is a similar view to Fig. 1, but showing a modified core.
  • Fig. 7 is a side sectional elevation of Fig. 6.
  • Fig. 8 is an elevation, to a slightly-enlarged scale, of the half neck-piece out ready for sewing and stiffening.
  • Fig. 9 is an inside elevation of the completed neck-piece opened out to a similar scale to Fig. 8.
  • Fig. 9 is an inside elevation of the completed neck-piece opened out to a similar scale to Fig. 8.
  • Fig. 9 is an inside elevation of the completed neck-piece opened out to a similar scale to Fig. 8.
  • Fig. 10 is a side elevation of the neck-piece closed, also to a similar scale to Fig. 8.
  • Fig. 11 is a front ele-. vation of the completed dummy with the neckpiece and arms attached to the same scale as Figs. 1 to 7.
  • the dummy constructed according to my invention consists of the following parts, viz: the core A A A the base-plate A the outer skin B,
  • the core of two telescopic oval tubes A A, adjustably secured together, so that the height of the core may be altered as desired, the lower tube A,which conforms somewhat (at the bottom) to the shape of the human hips, being attached to the base-plate A While the upper part A terminates in an enlarged or domeshaped cap, which is in turn surmounted by a spiral spring A The top of the dome-shaped such means as will permit of it being moved as desired.
  • the base-plate A shaped, preferably, as
  • Fig. 5 which measures about three to five inches less than the hip-measurement, is provided with a hole, as shown, to allow of the core being altered in height as desired and is preferably covered with some soft material in such a manner that no tacks or nails will be used on the outside surface.
  • the outer covering or skin B Over this core and having its lower edges sewed or otherwise fastened to the base-plate is the outer covering or skin B.
  • This outer skin B conforms to the human figure and is made in different types-such as, for instance, the full round bust with medium waist length suitable for the general figure, long-waisted rather fiat figure, with hips not very pronounced, &c.each type being made in different sizes.
  • the outer covering or skin B and the core A A I fill up with some moderately-soft material C, such as kapok and cocoanut fiber mixed well together, which I find gives the best result.
  • moderately-soft material C such as kapok and cocoanut fiber mixed well together, which I find gives the best result.
  • the outer covering or skin can be provided with hooks and eyes or buttons down either the front or back in order to assist in the insertion of the filling material.
  • the filling material in the space between the enlarged head of the core and the hip portion would be left loose and fairly easy to compress in order that the height of the core may be easily adjusted, while the shoulders, neck, and hips are packed fairly hard.
  • the arms are made of some soft outer covering or skin B, conforming to the human shape, and would be filled as hereinbefore described.
  • This arm-piece is attached to the body of the dummy by any suitable means.
  • neck-piece D of some fairly stiff materialsuch as French canvas, &c.and, as before indicated, separate from the body of the dummy, and it is attached to the prepared lining or bod ice with which the individual customer has been fitted.
  • the facsimile of the customer has its own accurately-fitting neck attached.
  • These neck-pieces are supplied in sets conforming to the human neck of different types, as may be found necessary in practice such as square shoulders, sloping shoulders, round shoulders, &c.to be adjusted to each fitted lining or bodice.
  • Fig. 8 the material for one half neck-piece is shown cut out and marked ready for sewing to give the proper shape, the lines D indicating the position of the seams for the gores. After being sewed at the lines D the neckpiece is further stifiened and shaped by whalebone or other stiffening, as at D Figs. 9 and 10. These two half-pieces are held together front and back by any suitable simple means, whereby the neck-piece may be easily enlarged orreduced in size, as desired.
  • the dummy is now ready for use, and on it may be placed the fitted lining, on which the outer materials are arranged for draping or design, or on it may be placed the finished bodice or skirt, so as to study the effect.
  • the fitted lining may afterward be removed and placed away for future use for the same customer, while the dummy is ready for another lining.
  • it may be desirable to use a dummy the measurements of which may be slightly larger than what is required. In this case it is not necessary to make anew outer covering or skin B; but instead thereof the latter may be plaited where necessary, so as to give the correct measurements, and after it is .finished for the particular bodice the dummy may be restored to its original condition simplyby removing the plaits. If an extra fullness is required, this can be obtained by adding a little more filling material C where necessary between the dummy and the new covering. It will be seen, therefore, that the measurements of the dummy may be very easily and quickly altered as desired.
  • a garment-form comprising an adjustable core, spiral spring for forming the support for the neck and shoulders, a base-plate, an outer covering and a filling of soft material between said core and said outer covering, substantially as described.
  • a core for garment-forms the combination with the base-plate, of a hollow base portion A secured to said base-plate, and having its upper end open and an upper portion A having one end adapted to enter said base portion and means for adjustably securing the same therein, and a spring on said core, substantially as described.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)

Description

No. 751,764. PATBNTED FEB. 9, 1904. J. WALKER.
GARMENT FORM.
APPLICATION FILED 00131, 1903. N0 MODEL. 2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.
mvewtoz wit-masses az gf m: ncnms PUzRs co. FHOYO-LXTHQY, WA5NINGTON, 0. c.
No. 751,764. PATENTED FEB. 9 1904. J. WALKER.-
GARMENT FORM.
APPLICATION FILED 00131. 1903.
no MODEL. 2 sums-sum 2.
Snow W01 UNITED STATES Patented February 9, 1904:.
PATENT OFFICE.
GARMENT-FORM.
SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 751,764, dated February 9, 1904.
Application filed October 31, 1903- To all whom it ntay concern.-
Be it known that I, JANET WALKER, dressmaker, of 205 and 207 Adelaide street, Bris bane, in the State of Queensland, Commonwealth of Australia, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Dress-Stand Figures or Dummies for Use in Dressmaking; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.
The object of this invention is to produce a dummy that will not only overcome all the various defects existing in the dummies now on the market, but will accommodate itself to almost any shape no matter what the pose of the person may be, whether she has a slight stoop, or is a more than usually erect figure, or has sloping or square shoulders, &c., and will also accommodate itself to almost any size smaller or larger than the dummy in use (within reason) no matter whether the person is of slight or full build, (of course when there is a great variation in the measurements alarger or smaller dummy may be used, if desired) the dummy being so made that it conforms in shape to whatever closely-fitting bodice or lining is placed upon it. This closely-fitting bodice or lining is therefore made to suit and fit the individual customer, and when the closely-fitting bodice or lining is removed from the dummy the latter resumes its original form.
In carrying out my invention I make a dummy having a light core attached to abaseplate and surmounted by a spiral spring, which together form the foundation, which while giving sufficient support will not prevent the model from adjusting itself to the size and shape of the closely-fitting lining or bodice which may be placed on it. An outer covering or skin which conforms to the human figure is placed over this core and the intervening space filled up with some suitable soft material. For skirts the dummy would be made on the same principle as herein set forth.
The closely-fitting neck-piece is made separate from the dummy covering or skin and Serial No. 179,346. (No model.)
conforms to the shape of the human neck and may be provided with simple means whereby it may be adjusted to suit the covering or easily enlarged or reduced in size.
With the use of my dummy it is very easy to attach stufied arms on which to fit the sleeves, an improvement which I understandcould not very well be obtained With previous dummies.
The outline of the invention as hereinbefore set forth and as hereinafter will be described is indicative that it is to be applied to dummies for making dresses for women; but it will be understood that it may be readily applied to dummies for mens clothing. I shall, however, describe my invention more fully in order that it may be better understood, reference being made to the accompanying drawings, which illustrate only clummies for Women.
Figure l is a front elevation of a bodicedummy. Fig. 2 is a side sectional elevation of same. Fig. 3 is a detail showing a modified core. Fig. 4 is a transverse section on line X X, Figs. 1, 2, 6, and 7. Fig. 5 is a plan of the base-plate. Fig. 6 is a similar view to Fig. 1, but showing a modified core. Fig. 7 is a side sectional elevation of Fig. 6. Fig. 8 is an elevation, to a slightly-enlarged scale, of the half neck-piece out ready for sewing and stiffening. Fig. 9 is an inside elevation of the completed neck-piece opened out to a similar scale to Fig. 8. Fig. 10 is a side elevation of the neck-piece closed, also to a similar scale to Fig. 8. Fig. 11 is a front ele-. vation of the completed dummy with the neckpiece and arms attached to the same scale as Figs. 1 to 7.
The dummy constructed according to my invention consists of the following parts, viz: the core A A A the base-plate A the outer skin B,
and filling materials C. I prefer to construct the core of two telescopic oval tubes A A, adjustably secured together, so that the height of the core may be altered as desired, the lower tube A,which conforms somewhat (at the bottom) to the shape of the human hips, being attached to the base-plate A While the upper part A terminates in an enlarged or domeshaped cap, which is in turn surmounted by a spiral spring A The top of the dome-shaped such means as will permit of it being moved as desired.
The base-plate A shaped, preferably, as
shown in Fig. 5 and which measures about three to five inches less than the hip-measurement, is provided with a hole, as shown, to allow of the core being altered in height as desired and is preferably covered with some soft material in such a manner that no tacks or nails will be used on the outside surface. Over this core and having its lower edges sewed or otherwise fastened to the base-plate is the outer covering or skin B. This outer skin B conforms to the human figure and is made in different types-such as, for instance, the full round bust with medium waist length suitable for the general figure, long-waisted rather fiat figure, with hips not very pronounced, &c.each type being made in different sizes. Between the outer covering or skin B and the core A A, I fill up with some moderately-soft material C, such as kapok and cocoanut fiber mixed well together, which I find gives the best result. The outer covering or skin can be provided with hooks and eyes or buttons down either the front or back in order to assist in the insertion of the filling material.
The filling material in the space between the enlarged head of the core and the hip portion would be left loose and fairly easy to compress in order that the height of the core may be easily adjusted, while the shoulders, neck, and hips are packed fairly hard.
Of course, as will be seen, although it is not possible to lay down any special proportion in the measurements of the tube of the core and waist of the completed dummy I find the following most suitable, viz: for waists of twenty to twenty-four inches a fourteen-inch core-tube would be used, for waists of twentyfive to twenty-nine inches an eighteen-inch core-tube would be used, and so on, the general plan being that the core-tube should he,
.say, one-third, more or less, smaller than the waist of the dummy as completed.
The arms are made of some soft outer covering or skin B, conforming to the human shape, and would be filled as hereinbefore described. This arm-piece is attached to the body of the dummy by any suitable means.
I make the neck-piece D of some fairly stiff materialsuch as French canvas, &c.and, as before indicated, separate from the body of the dummy, and it is attached to the prepared lining or bod ice with which the individual customer has been fitted. Thus the facsimile of the customer has its own accurately-fitting neck attached. These neck-pieces are supplied in sets conforming to the human neck of different types, as may be found necessary in practicesuch as square shoulders, sloping shoulders, round shoulders, &c.to be adjusted to each fitted lining or bodice.
In Fig. 8 the material for one half neck-piece is shown cut out and marked ready for sewing to give the proper shape, the lines D indicating the position of the seams for the gores. After being sewed at the lines D the neckpiece is further stifiened and shaped by whalebone or other stiffening, as at D Figs. 9 and 10. These two half-pieces are held together front and back by any suitable simple means, whereby the neck-piece may be easily enlarged orreduced in size, as desired.
In the description above given I have described the dummy as constructed for fitting linings and bodices; but of course it is understood that it can also be made for fitting skirts in addition to bodices and skirts without bod ices. Also it can be readily adapted for fitting mens clothing. It will also be readily understood that the details may be varied without in any way departing from the invention.
The dummy is now ready for use, and on it may be placed the fitted lining, on which the outer materials are arranged for draping or design, or on it may be placed the finished bodice or skirt, so as to study the effect. The fitted lining may afterward be removed and placed away for future use for the same customer, while the dummy is ready for another lining. At some time it may be desirable to use a dummy the measurements of which may be slightly larger than what is required. In this case it is not necessary to make anew outer covering or skin B; but instead thereof the latter may be plaited where necessary, so as to give the correct measurements, and after it is .finished for the particular bodice the dummy may be restored to its original condition simplyby removing the plaits. If an extra fullness is required, this can be obtained by adding a little more filling material C where necessary between the dummy and the new covering. It will be seen, therefore, that the measurements of the dummy may be very easily and quickly altered as desired.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim is 1. A garment-form comprising an adjustable core, spiral spring for forming the support for the neck and shoulders, a base-plate, an outer covering and a filling of soft material between said core and said outer covering, substantially as described.
2. Ina garment-form, the combination with an outer covering, and a base-plate, of a hollow inner core of rigid material, surmounted by a spring, said core being formed of two telescopic oval tubes, the lower finished to approximate the shape of the human hips, while the upper tube terminates in an enlarged or dome-shaped cap, substantially as described.
3. In a core for garment-forms, the combination with the base-plate, of a hollow base portion A secured to said base-plate, and having its upper end open and an upper portion A having one end adapted to enter said base portion and means for adjustably securing the same therein, and a spring on said core, substantially as described.
a. In a garment-form, the combination with an adjustable core, of rigid material and spiral spring supporting the neck-piece, an outer covering of flexible material and filling of soft material between said core and said outer covering, of arms secured thereto, substantially as described.
5. In a garment-form, the combination with an adjustable core of rigid material, and spiral spring supporting the neck portion, an outer covering of flexible material and filling of soft material between said core and said outer casportion having a reduced lower end adapted to enter said lower base portion and means for adjustably securing the same therein, the open upper end of the base portion being in alinement with the opening in the base-plate whereby the lower part of the upper core may pass through both of said openings, substantially as described.
In witness whereof I have hereunto set my hand 1n presence of two witnesses.
JANET WALKER.
Witnesses:
ALEXANDER ANDERSON, J. E. A. SHORTER.
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