US716613A

US716613A - Garment-fitting device.

Info

Publication number: US716613A
Application number: US10202002A
Authority: US
Inventors: Charles Anderson
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1902-04-09
Filing date: 1902-04-09
Publication date: 1902-12-23
Anticipated expiration: 1919-12-23

Description

"Nm 7|6,6l3. l Patented Dec. 23,1902.

C. ANDERSON.

GARMENT FITTING DEVICE.

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c. ANDERSON. GAHHENT FITTING DEVICE.

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No. 7l6,6l3. Patented Dec. 23, |902.

C. ANDERSN.

EMINENT FITTING DEVICE.

(Application tiled Apr. 9, 1902.)

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U ITnn STATES PATENT OFFICE.

CHARLES ANDERSON, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

GARVIENT-.FITTING DEVICE.

SPECIFICATION forming para of Letters Patent No. 716,613, dated December 23. 1902 Application tiled April 9, 1902. Serial No. 102,020. (No model.)

To @ZZ whom it may concern.-

Beit known that I, CHARLES ANDERSON, a citizen of the United States, residing at Chicago, in the county of Cook and State of Illinois, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Garment-Fitting Devices; and I do Ahereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description ofthe invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

My invention relates to a novel construction in an instrument for measuring and designing the shoulder part of a garment, the object being to provide an instrument Whereby the slope of the shoulder can be accurately measured and the garment designed to fit the same; and it consists in the features of construction and combinations of parts hereinafter fully described and claimed.

In the accompanying drawings, illustrating my invention, Figure lis a View in elevation of the instrument. Figs. 2 and 3 illustrate the manner of applying same to take measurements. Fig. 4 illustrates the manner of drawing the diagram after taking the measurements.

The instrument consists of a member A, having a straight edge B, provided with a measuring-scale C, divided into inches and fractions thereof. At one end of said member A is a short concave curved edge D, starting at practically a right angle to the edge B and terminating in a point E. A third edge F extends upwardly from the point E atan angle of about forty-five degrees to the edge B, said edge F being also slightly concave. The said edges B, D, and F are adapted, respectively, to follow the middle seam of the back of the coat or vest, the collar, and shoulder seam, the whole instrument being of a flexible material. On the edge F isa graduated scale indicating distances from the edge B. The said edge F joins an edge G, which is short and is adapted to follow the junction of the sleeve with the coat. From the other end of the edge B an edge II extends at an angle of about fortyfive degrees to a point I, Which forms an indicator, as hereinafter described, and from said point I a straight edge J extends almost parallel With the edge B, terminating in a concave curve K, terminating at the edge G,

thereby forming a recess L, adapted to receive the shoulder-joint.

Extending parallel With the edge B is a longitudinal slot M, in which a member N is pivotally and longitudinally movable, said member N being provided with an ogee-curved free end, provided with a graduated scale O, on Which the point I indicates. On one of the side edges of said member N, extending from its upper end, is a small graduated scale P, whose function will appear hereinafter. The said edge containing said scale P extends partially radially to the pivot Q, but diverges therefrom in a curve at one side of said pivot.

In use the instrument is iirst inverted, so that the edge D is uppermost. A line indicating the level of the armpits having rst been drawn Von the garment Worn by the person being measured, the instrument is so placed that the straight edge B registers With the middle seam of the back and the edge D with the seam joining the collar to the coat. The edge F will then practically register with the shoulder-seam. The point of intersection of the armpit-line With the straight edge B is then noted and also the intersection of the sleeve juncture With edge F. Other measurements may then be taken-such as'length, chest, and Waist measurementsif desired. We Will assume that the first measurement by the instrument is nine and the second is eight. The instrument is then removed and turned and the portion bordered by the edges Fraud G inserted under the arm from the front, so that the curved edge K is in close contact with the armpit. The member A is then bent over on the front of the garment so as to be parallel with the fly. The member N is then moved up and the corner R thereof placed at the j unotion of the shoulder-seam with the collar-seam. If the person being measured is of perfectly normal proportion, the ogee-curved edge will register with the shoulder-seam; but if the shoulders slope then the shoulder-seam Will intersect the graduated scale P, and such point of intersection is noted, as is also the point on the scale B opposite which the pivot Q stands. The

point of intersection of the sleeve-joint with the scale O is also noted. The member A also carries two buttons S and T, to which measuring-tapes can be readily secured and meas- IOO urements taken from these points. After noting the last-named measurements the distance of the button T from the seam in the middle of the back is taken, said measurement being marked X X on Fig. 4L. The tailor now has all the measurements of the shoulder part of the garment and, having noted all other measurements, proceeds to make a diagram of the garment. To this end he spreads his cloth, or, preferably, paper, on a fiat surface and lays the instrument thereon, again inverted, with the edge B flush with the long edge of the paper and the point E flush with the short edge. He then notes the iirst. measurement 9 on the long edge and with his square draws the armpit-line, as indicated at S. Then he draws lines following the contour of the edges D and F, terminating the last-named line at 8 on the scale. The measurement X X is then noted and the instrument reversed, as shown on the left-hand side of Fig. 4, the edge B being laid parallel with the opposite long edgeV of the paper, (on which the button-line y y is marked,) the deepest portion of the edge K being flush with the armpit-line and the button T being in alinement with the inner end of the line X X. The position of memberA having been thus determined,the memberN is moved Vinto the position corresponding with that 0ccupied by it in Fig. 3 by movingitlongitudinally until the pivot Q occupies the same position and turning same on said pivot until the indicator I indicates the same point on the scale O as it did in Fig. 3. The point r is then noted and also the point z on scale P intersected by the shoulder-seam thereon, and a line is drawn following the contour of edge K to indicate the location of the armhole. The points r and z having been made, the member N is turned so that its free end registers with said points, and a line frz is drawn following the contour of said free end and terminating at the point of intersection of the sleeve-line with said scale O. This line will obviously correspond in length with the line following the contour of the edge F, and by bringing said lines together after the cloth is cut the same will lie smoothly over the shoulder, having the desired slope and The line fr r on the paper indicates shape.

the collar-line on the fly, and this and the armhole-line are drawn by the tailor in accordance with his judgment and the character of the garment. The pattern thus drawn on the paper is then transferred to the cloth and the latter cut parallel with such lines, sufficient cloth being left beyond the edges for the seams, as will be obvious.

I claim as my inventionl. A tailors measuring instrument comprising a member of flexible material having a straight edge adapted to register with the middle back seam of a garment, a curved edge adapted to register with the collar-seam, an edge adapted to register with the shoulder-seam and an edge adapted to register with the seam joining the sleeve to the garment, and a recess adapted to receive the shoulderjoint when the instrument is inverted,a member pivotally and longitudinally movable on said first-named member and adapted when said first-named member is inverted and applied to the front of the garment to register -or practically register with the shoulder-seam at its free end, a measuring scale on the straight edge and shoulder-seam edge of said first-named member, and measuring-scales on the free end portion of said second member, substantially as described.

2. A tailors measuring instrument comprising two members of flexible material pivotally secured together and relatively longitudinally movable, one of said members conforming in outline in part with the shoulder portionV of one-hall:` the back part of a coat or similar garment, and provided with a recess adapted to receive the shoulder-joint of the person being measured, when said member is inverted and applied to the front of the garment, said second member conforming in shape at its free end with the shoulder-seam r and adapted to locate the same, and measuring-scales on the edges of said members, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

CHARLES ANDERSON.

Witnesses:

RUDOLPH WM. Lo'rz, JOHN SNowHooK.