US103487A - Improvement in tailorsj measures - Google Patents

Description

l. MOSES.

Talors- Measure.

Patented May 24, 1870. n

wlnefflres' UNiTnn STATES PATENT OFFICE.

isAAc Mosns, or Nnw Yoan, N. Y.

IMPROVEMENT IN TAILORS MEASURES.

Speciiication forming part of Letters Patent No. 103,487.. (lated May 24, 1570; antedaicd May 19, 1870.

To aZZwhom it 17mg/ concern.-

Be it known that I, ISAAC MOSES, ofthe city, county, and State of N ew York, have invented a new and Improved Tailor s Measure; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description thereof, which will enable those skilled in the art to make and use the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming part of this speciiication, in which drawings- Figure 1 represents a plan view of my invention as applied to marking ofi? the front part of avest or coat. Fig. 2 is asimilarview of the same as applied to marking off the back of a vest or coat. Figs. 3 and et are diagrams showing the method of taking the measure.

Similar letters indicate corresponding parts.

The principal object ol' this invention is to enable thecutter in a tailoring establishment to mark 0H the various parts of a garment to the best possible advantage and with the least possible waste inmaterial. This object is effected by the combination of a curved hinged longitudinal breast-rule with a curved sliding waist-rule for the front part of a vest or coat,

Iand by the combination of a diagonal backrule with a hinged angular neck-rule for the back part of a'vest or coat.

In the drawings, the letter A vdesignates the main or central rule, to which is attached the shoulder-rule B, said shoulder-rule being so arranged that it can be made to slide on the central rule, and that'it can be set at any desired point thereon. To said central rule, A, is also fitted a sliding head, O, which forms the guide for the transverse breast-rule D, to which is tted the slide of the longitudinal curved breast-rule E, that is hinged to its slide by means of a pivot, a, so that it can swing toward and from the central rule, A. To this central rule is also tted the waist-rule F, one end of which is rectilinear, while its opposite end is curved, as shown in Fig. 1 of the drawings. This waist-rule slides up and down on the central rule, so that it can be set t0l any desired point. The central rule, the shoulder-rule, and the longitudinal curved breastrule are divided off into inches and fractions of inches, while the waist-rule and the transverse breast-rule each have two scales, the divisions of which will be presently explained. From the curved part of the waist-rule project buttons c, corresponding in position to the divisions on said rule. These buttons serve to retain the diagonal back-rule, G, which is marked off into inches, and on which is itted a slide, to which is hinged the angular neck-rule I-I, as shown in Fig. 2.

In taking the measure of a vest, for instance, the tailor proceeds as follows: first, measure of the waist-say thirty inches; second, measure from `a point on the waist right under the armpit over the front of the shoulder to the back of the neck-say twenty inches; third, measure from the same point on the Waist over the back of the shoulder to back of neck-say twenty-two inches; fourth, measure from the same point on the waist to a point under the armpit-say, twelve inches; fth, measure round the breast-say, thirty-six inches; sixth, measure of length-say twenty-two and onefourth inches. In order to draw the front part of this vest, set the waist-rule to the YFigure 20 on the central rule, and transverse breast-rule to the ligure l2 on said central rule. Move this transverse breast-rule until the figure 36 on its rear portion corresponds to the rear edge of the central rule. Move the slide on the longitudinal curved breast-rule over the figure 36, and adjust this curved breast-rule so that its edge passes over the ligure 30 on the front arm of the waist-rule. Move the shoulder-rule to the ligure 36 on the upper part of the central rule. Fasten the several rules in this position, and place your instrument on the material from which the vest is to be cut, moving it thereon to such a position that the front part of the vest can be marked off with the least possible waste in material. Then draw the lines, as shown in Fig. l of the drawings, the figure 36 011 the rear end of the transverse breast-rule determining the depth of the arm-hole, and the work is done. In drawing these lines, the lines g hand 11 k, j Z, lm are determined by the rules. The line hfj is marked according to the distance to which the Vest is to open in front. The line m k determines the armhole and has to be drawn to suit the thickness of the arm, and the line g a is drawn according to the desired fashion. In marking ofi the back part of a vest, I place the button t' over a point on the material which is seven and one-half inches distant from one edge of said material, as indicated by the dotted line i o in Fig. 2, and so that the distance z' n in Fig. 2 corresponds to the distance in in Fig. 1. Then I draw aline, p 7c, on a level with the bottom edge of the transverse breast-rule, and this line I make equal to nine inches, allowing in each case about one-half inch- (more or less) for the seams. By these means the points LJ, and n are determined and the line k i n can be drawn. To the button fi, I attach the diagonal back-rule, on which the neck-rule H has been adjusted to correspond to the iigure 22. Then I turn the neck-rule so as to bring its rectilinear outside edge in line with the prolongation of the line o p, or with the edge of the material, and thereby I determine the point q. I then draw the line qv", following the curved outside edge of the neck-rule to the mark No. 36. Then I draw theline r s, following the direction ofthe mark No. 36, the length of this line being made to correspond to that of the line lm in Fig. 1, and iinally I connect the points s and 7c, as shown.

It will be noticed that thel length of the line fi o is equal to seven and one-halfiilclies, being one-quarter of the measure of the waist, and the length of the linep k is equal to nine inches, being one-quarter of the brcastmeasurerhe lines t o and 7s pin Fig. 1 correspondinlength to the lines 17 0 and k p in Fig. 2, and for this purpose a scale of one-fourth inches is marked on one side of the diagonal back-rule. It must be remarked, however, that some allowance has to be made in the length of these lines on account of the seams.

The waist-rule is curved up at its inner or back end to provide for the proper shape of the pattern, according to the greater or smaller circumference of the waist.

It is obvious that my instrument can be used with equal advantage for marking off patterns for coats or other garments of a similar nature.

lVhat I claim as new, and desireto secure by Letters Iatent, is

1. The combination of the curved waist-rule, hinged longitudinal curved breast-rule, sliding transverse breast-rule, and central rule, with their appropriate scales, all as shown and de scribed.

2. The combination ofthe diagonal back-rule and hinged sliding neck-rule provided with the angular graduated lines to determine the position and direction of the line fr s with the buttons of the curved waist-rule, as set forth.

This specification signed by me this- 13th day of September, 1869.

I. MOSES.

lVitnesses:

NV. lilium, E. F. KAsTENHunnR.

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