US3603A - Tailor s measure - Google Patents

Description

UNTTED sTATns PATENT formes.

HENRY `ISHAM, OF MONTPELIER, VERMONT.

TAILoRs MEASURE.

1 Specification of `Letters Patent No.`3,60`3, dated May 30, 1844.

To all 'Lo/1,0m t may concern:

l Be it known that I, HENRY IsHAM, of Montpelier, in the County of Washington and State "of Vermont, have invented a new and Improved Mode of Measuring for and Drafting to Cut Garments; and I do hereby declare the following is a full and exact description. l

The nature of my invention consists in applying the measures hereafter described in such manner as to find by the rules hereinafter stated the shape of a piece of cloth or other substance that Will fit or `cover smoothly the body measured when made into a garment. l

To enable others skilled in the art to make and use my invention, I will describe its construction and operation. l

I measure the person asis the custom according to fashion, length `of Waist and skirt, length of arm and elbow, and length from the top of back seam or socket bone over the breast to the bottom of lapel and from top `of back seam front or next to front of arm to the spot on `the side at the hip Where I Wish to have the Waist seam pass around; measure Width of back, around the scye, around the arm, around the breast and Waist.

Plate 2, Figure l of the accompanying drawings, represents nearly my measure which I denominate first measure. This may be made of any substance that is not elastic or too much so; the shape is not maf terial, so it is large enough to receive lines A, B, C, D, E, and corner F. I make it of cloth With inch measures attached at corner A, and edge B.

Fig. 2 represents the second measure, which may be a common tape measure as represented, made of tape, and painted and varnished so as to be firm like pasteboard.

Fig. 3 represents my third measure, which should be made of cloth, shaped as in the figure, from 20 to 23 inches long and from 2 to 4% inches Wide-the arm `of the square, as represented in the `figure, to be 4t inches long; make a notch in edge G, which edge should be straight, and the edges C, and F, at right angles with edge E, and edge E, parallel with edge G; from line B, to edges C, and D, the measure should be lined With pasteboard orleather to make thepart firm so that the angle can be used to advantage.

I let the person button close the coat or garment that is on him, turn up the collar out ofthe Way, then place the lirst measure on the body, edge B, (Plate l, Figs. l and 2) l inch below the soye, and corner A, l inch front ofthe scye; With a pin make it fast to the person at corner A, and at corner C, lay the measure close to the body, smooth, around and past the back seam; place a pin at corner G, one at corner D, as represented in Pl. 1, Figs. 1 and 2. I then place the 2d measure around the Waist over the 1st measure as in Pl. l; When it is directly 'around the Waist and horizontal I hold it With one hand and With chalk in. the other mark on 1st measure by top edge of 2d measure from frontor D, around past the back seam, Fig.` l Pl. l, which chalk marks will make `on lst measure the line A, as seen on Fig. l Pl. 2. On 1st measure Where it covers the back seam I mark line B, as represented in Fig. l Pl. 2. I then `place `3d measure with edge E, under the arm Where I Wish to have the bottom of the scye, and edge F, front of the scye, as in Fig. 2 Pl. l; then mark on 1st measure by edges C, and G, on said 3d measure the lines C, C, as inPl. 2 Fig. l, Where they appear. I then place the 3d measure on the shoulder, as in Figs. l and 2 Pl. 1, the edge A, `to rest at the place Where the scye-se-am should be; let the edge A, cover point 5; l-et it be around the front o f armhole and breast as I Wish a garment to lit, let-ting the end rest on the 1st measure Where it Will; hold `it there and `mark on lst measure by edge G, and at the notch, which makes line D, on 1st measure. Ithen place the corner A, of the 8d measure at the top of back seam or l Fig. l, Pl. l, carry it around as in Fig. 2 Pl. l; let it rest as before on lst measure; when there mark by edge G, and at the notch line E; these marks appear on 1st measure as represented on Fig. l, Pl. 2. I then measure from the top of back seam or l` to the point Where line A, crosses the back seam, Vand denominate it No. l; then with the measure at corner A, on lst meas ure measure to l or top of back seam Fig.` l Pl. l, and call this No. 2; then over the shoulder at the scye around to F, on 1st measure for No. 3; then to the point Where line A, crosses, for No. t; then Wit-h the other inch measure at edge B, measure from under the arm to top of back seam for No. 5; then to center of back, or et, Pl. l Fig. l for No. 6.

I draft my coat or garment in the follow- `ing manner: Plate 3 Fig. l draw line B and at right angles with it line C. On line B, measure the length of the 1st No., and at the point of termination of said length draw line A., at right angles with line B; from line A to line D, is the length from line A, on lst. measure to the scye-(being the dotted line O, on Plate 3 Fig. 2) from line D, to line E is one-half of the diameter of the scye. I then form the rest of the back as represented or according to fashion or directions. I then lay 1st measure on the cloth, as represented in Plate 3 Fig. 2, laying the back on the cloth, so that line A, on the back and line A, on lst measure shall together form part of a circle, marking line A, on the cloth under the measure to correspond with line A, on the measure and back, having the back seam one-fourth of an inch, from and parallel with line B, on lst measure; then mark for the side seam below the shoulder blade as in Pl. 3 Fig. 2. lith the measure at edge B, measure to 4 on back the 6th No. and alter the side seam at shoulder blade accordingly; then from edge B, to top of back seam, back lying as represented, making the length of the side seam on forepart the same above line A, as it is on back above line A. I then lay 3d measure on 1st measure edges Gr, and C, at lines C, C, on lst measure and mark for front and bo-ttom of scye; lay 3d measure, edge G, at line D, on 1st measure and at edge A, on 3d measure, mark upper part of scye; then lay 3d measure on line E, and mark around corner A, 3d measure; then with inch measure at A, measure on the scye seam toward H, No. 3, subtracting the distance from F, to Gr; place the G corner of back at the line near I-I, as represented, from A, on lst measure to top of back seam, No. 2, which will form shoulder A; lay the back l or top of back at the mark made around corner A, on 3d measure, and form shoulder B, as represented; mark the shoulder to cut half-way between the two as represented by shoulder C; from l on back to 4 at waist seam apply the measure taken, allowing for seams; from 'l on back to II the measure taken form the fore part according to fashion and measures commonly taken. Plate 4, Fig. l, draw line B; at right angles draw line C; from l to 2 is the width of back at waist; from l to 3 the distance from 2 to 4 Pl. 3, Fig. 2. Suppose from l to 2 Pl. 3 Fig. 2 to be 3 inches, and from 3 to 4 195 inches, then Pl. 4 Fig. l from 3 to 4, 19j inches, I form skirt as I wish. If line A, passes directly around the body, then a square piece of cloth fastened at line A, would hang square around the bottom, if it was fulled in at the waist as the skirt of a coat; therefore as the waist seam from line A, and width of back differ, so different I cut my skirt. Plate 4, Fig. 2, draw lines A and B; from l to 2 is half the scye measure or circumference; from 2 sweep line C; with the same measure, center at 3, sweep line D; form the rest of the sleeve according to measure and fashion or as represented in Pl. 4 F ig. 2, the under part of scye being one-half the scye measure, and from 5 to 6, 4 inches, line E, should be distant from line B, the diameter of the scye lacking l inch when the scye is 14-1- inches in circumference.

'Vhat I claim as my invention and desire to secure by Letters Patent isl. The combination of the .three above described measures for the purpose described.

2. And also the iirst and third measures above described for the use and purpose described.

HENRY IS'HAM.

Witnesses F. F. MERRILL, H01L II. REED.

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