US71520A - Improvement in means foe measuring and laying out garments - Google Patents

Description

@einen @faire @einer @fitta JACOB `Inl-MLM, JR., 0F :NEWTOWNL VIRGINIA,- ASSIGNOR To I IMsELF,y

l I. w. YEAKELL, AND o. o. KLINE, 0F SAMEv PLAGE.

Letters Patent No. 71,520, cZateaZNovember 26, v1867.

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TO ALL'WHOM IT MAY CONCFRN:

-Be it known that: I, JACOB -LEMLEAL- Jr., of Newtown, county of Frederick, and State of Virginia, have invented certain new"v and useful Improvements in :Graduated Rule for Cutting Garments; and I do hereby declare-thatthe following is a full, clear, and exact description of the same, reference being had to the annexed drawings, andftc the letters of reference marked thereon, andmade a partei' this specication, in which- Figurel is a full'view of thebreastplate of the former.

Figure 2 is` a full view of the back and shoulder-plate ofthe former.

Figure-3 represents ve of the series of graduated scales used by me.

These drawings are all vdrawn on a half scale;

The nature of my invention consists in combining with .a stationary former or rule, on which are indicated all the angles necessaryfor cutting the garment as Well as Aa guide-table of distances,'a series of,l graduated scales which are entirely independent of Athe formerbnt .are so` arranged that they can4 be readily attached thereto and' detached therefrom, thus enabling me to kcut -on a single former, 'whose angles and distances are arranged for a person ofthe smallest size, a. garment suited to and that will iit a person of the largest proportions. i, i

l Y To enable others skilled inthe art to make and use my invention, I"`wi1l proceed to describe its construction and operation. v A is a former for the breast-plate, and is so arranged that all the angles and distancesnecessary to be india Y cated in marking out-the material ior the breast und under-arm cut are fully shown. B is a former similar in design to AA, but intended for the' back. Both A and B are foi-mers which are arranged, as to distances and in all othergespects, to suit a person measuring tweuty-seveninches around the chest. When a larger garment 'is to be cut, I apply one of theA series of graduated scales, as shown in red in figs. 1 and 2. C is'the centrect` fthe under-arm cut. D D, area. series of graduated scales, extending from 27 to 47,'only ve of the series being shown, but lwhich are twenty-one in number.- The iignres and distances that are spaced oli' onA-these scales are the result of actual measurement. a a show the different poin-ts or angles which it is necessary to mark on the material in order properly to cut out the desiredpattern. 6 b are a series of lines, which all radiate from the centre C of the armhole. On these lines -ai'e various numbers, which are of no importance when the garmentl is intendedfor a person of twenty-seven inches around the breast, for the di'erent angles are obtained simply by placingvthe former'on the material and dotting down the distances at the various points a a. But when thegarment in intended for a personmeasuring over twenty-seven inches, so that one of the series of graduated scales has to be used, the numbers on the lines b b become indispensably necessary, as will be hereafter fully described.

The operation, when one of the series D ofthe graduated scales is used, is as follows: The series asused by me is composed of twenty-one strips suitably spaced and marked. These strips are numbered 27, 28, and so .on

up to 47. Suppose the person for whom the coat is intended` measures twentynine inches around the chest,V

then 4the scale marked '29 is used in connection with the former, as shown in red in g. 2.- Ifhe measures fortyseven inches, then the scale marked 47 is'used, as shown in red in iig. 1. n

- Toillustrate the principle, let us take the scale-stripD marked 47, and apply it to the former, which is done by passing a pin or needle, @through the edge of thestrip, and also through the opening in the centre of the arm-hole C, and thence to the table or board on which the material rests. It .will be observed that the pin or needle acts as a pivot, and furnishes a centre bearing'for the strip D. When this scale-strip D is applied to the first line b we iind the ligure 3; this gure shows the distance from the centre of the first angle required. Instead of making the mark at a,.we run along the scale until we come to the figure 3, and there make the mark, whichwould be at about the point d. We then revolve the scale until we come to the next line b, which :is marked 6%. nsteado marking at a, werun along the scale until we reach 6%, and there make the mark, as

`shown at e, and so cn until we have all thedistances properly ascertained and suitably marked. The former B is shown `with the scale-strip D which is marked 30 applied'. TheA principle by'which it is operated is precisely similar to that before illustrated;

The only thing required to be done in order to cut a garment of any desired size is toascertain the number of` inches the personvmeasurs around the chest, then take the scale-stripvD which is marked with the same number and apply it to the former, as shown, and then revolve. the strip, stopping at each line b, marking the diiferent angles on the material in the manner described.

By my plan I amI enabled to cut the arm-hole, which is usually the most d iilcult point, with perfect aecu-4 racy and great facility. Find the figure 3 on the scale, commence at the'pointf, and draw a curved line, stop` ping at f, which it will be observed by reference to fig. 1 is a little more .than a semicircle, then make a straight cut fromf, which is the front of the arm, to the point marked f, which is the lower shoulderlpoint, and the entire work of cutting the arm-hole is accomplished.

The great advantage of this invention consists in its estreme simplicity. The seriesof graduated sealest'rips being entirely free and independent of the former, if care is taken .in selecting the one whose number is the same as the inches the person measures around the chest, it is impossible for a mistake to occur, there being nothing to confuse the operator, as is Athe case when all the tables of distances and'angles are spread out on theY sheet which contains the pattern-plate. i

Having thus fully descrihedvmy invention, what I claim therein as new, and for which I desire Letters Patent, is v *The combination of the formers, on which are indicated 'a single table of measurements, with a series of graduated scales, said scales being entirely independent of each other and of the former, but so arranged as to be susceptible of being readily attached to and detached from the former, substantially as described.`

, In` testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

JACOB LEMLEY,'JR. Witnesses:

JOHN D. BLoon, :JOHN S. HoLLrNesnEAn.

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