US662817A - Dress-chart. - Google Patents

Dress-chart. Download PDF

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US662817A
US662817A US289200A US1900002892A US662817A US 662817 A US662817 A US 662817A US 289200 A US289200 A US 289200A US 1900002892 A US1900002892 A US 1900002892A US 662817 A US662817 A US 662817A
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section
waist
sections
pattern
piece
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US289200A
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John B Plant
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth

Definitions

  • My invention relates to a system of dresscutting,and includes a seriesof pattern-pieces corresponding' to the dierent parts of the garment to be cnt, and each of these patternpieces is composed of a series of movable sections a'dapted to be adjusted to the dimensions of the body to be iitted and forming after thus adjusted a correct pattern which may be laid upon the cloth and along the outline of which the goods may be cut or where in some cases certain of the dimensions are less than the outline of the patternpiece lines may be drawn and the pattern cut upon these lines.
  • Figure l shows a View of the pattern-sheet adapted to be used to cut the front sections of the waist.
  • Fig. la is an edge view of the same.
  • Fig. 2 illustrates the pattern-sections for the part of the waist beneath the arm.
  • Fig. 3 shows the section for the side of the back of the waist.
  • Fig. 4L shows the section used in cutting the material for the back of the waist.
  • Fig. 5 shows the pattern-section for the skirt,
  • this piece is made up of a series of sections adj ustably connected together.
  • the section A provides a pattern for the front upper part of the waist between the neck and arm openings, and adj ustably connected to this section is a section B, which carries a series of sections O pivotally connected at their lower ends, with their upper ends provided with elongated slots c, which slots engage headed pins c.
  • Two of the sections C cross at the position of the pin and are held by the same pin. These pins are carried at the lower front edge of the section A.
  • the three sections c form, with a fourth section D, dartsections and they indicate.
  • the fourth dart-section D varies from the sections c in that it eX- tends to the lower part of the section BJ, where it engages a slot d through the medium of a headed pin b', which passes through the slot CZ in the extension of the section B and through an opening in the dart-section D, the pin being threaded and provided with a thumb-nut, thus allowing the dart-section D to be moved laterally and to be iixed after such adjustment and then the width of the second dart-opening may be increased or diminished at will.
  • the third section F is adjustably secured to the section A at the rear thereof, and this is intended in connection with the part A of the main section to give the length of the waist at the rear of the front section and to also give the outline of the rear edge of the front part of the waist.
  • This section F is made independently adjustable of the sections A and B, for the reason that the waist-line varies toward the rear of the front waist-section in different indviduals and requires to be independently ascertained.
  • rlhe section F is provided with an elongated slot f about centrally of its width and a second slot f' formed in an extension f2. Headed pins pass through the elongated slotsf and j" and serve as guides to direct the movement of the section F.
  • the extension B of the section B laps the lower part of the section F, and a headed pin, carried by the extension B',engages an elongated slot]03 and serves as a support and guide for the parts.
  • the front edge of the section B is furnished support from the main section by an independent piece B2, which is riveted at its upper end to the section A at its front edge and engages the front edge of the section B by means of a headed pin, the end of which passes through an elongated slot B4 and has a thu rnb-nut on the upper end, so that when the parts are once adjusted they may be held in posit-ion until the pattern or cloth is cut.
  • the edge section B5 of the main section B is further guided by a headed pin passing through the upper end thereof and engaging an elongated slot in the supportingsection Brthis slot being shown at b5.
  • I provide a graduated strip G, having elongated slots at top and bottom, as at g' g2, the upper slot engaginga headed pin fastened to the main section A, while the lower slot engages the pin which connects the extension B5 with the supporting-section B2.
  • a series of perforations are arranged, as shown at l, 2, and 3, in section A, and these are graduated so as to provide for different measurements of the bust, while the graduated strip G serves to ascertain the length of the waist aft-er the ,bust has been ascertained by being adjusted in relation to the bust-measure, and when this has been ascertained the section Bis moved up or down to give the proper length of the waist, the dartsections automatically indicating the amount of material to be removed to provide for the dart-openings.
  • the section F is provided with a series of openings 4 to indicate the waist-line and, as has been stated, is independently adjusted.
  • Fig. 2 illustrates the pattern-sheet for the dimensions under the arm of the waist or corsage and consists of three sections H, H', and H2.
  • Section H has a central elongated slot, and mounted upon this section is the section H2, and overlapping the section H2 is the section H'.
  • the latter section has an elongated slot on the right-hand side of its upper end, and a headed pin passes through the elongated slot of H, an opening in H2, and the elongated slot of H', and upon its threaded end carries a thumb-nut.
  • This arrangement allows of the adjustment of the sections H2 H2 simultaneously in relation to section H or independently in relation to section H or to each other.
  • section H' is further guided by an elongated slot 7L, parallel to the lefthand edge, which engages a headed pin stationary in the lower part of the section H, this pin being shown in section H'.
  • a series of graduated perforations 6 properly numbered indicate the waist-line.
  • Section H2 is also provided with an elongated slot h2, which engages a headed pin, and this serves to properly guide the part in its adjustment.
  • the two parts H' and H2 are connected at their overlapping lower ends by universal connection consisting of a laterally-extended slot hi in the part H' and a longitudinally-extending slot H4 in the part H2, a headed pin passing through these slots and allowing longitudinal movement of the parts H' H2 and a slight lateral movement of the parts H' H2 in relation to each other.
  • the side and top edges of the part H are properly graduated.
  • Fig. 3 shows the pattern-piece for the side baci; of the Corsage and only differs from the piece shown in Fig. 2 in its outline. In other respects it is identical, being composed of three sections capable of independent adjustment, the two lower sections being capable of slight lateral adjustment as well as longitudinal adjustment.
  • Fig. 4 is the pattern-piece for the back and consists of the main section I, with a vertically-sliding section I' and a pivoted section I2 pivoted at its upper end and having an elongated slot at its lower end, as at c', which engages a headed pin z" in the section I', with the result that as the section I' is moved longitudinally the pivoted section I-2 is automatically adjusted in or out, so as to have the width correspond to the length ,of waist.
  • the section I' is guided at two points by elongated slots and headed pins.
  • a graduated scale also having longitudinal movement, is guided along the edge of the pattern-sheet, so as to give the proper length of waist, this scale being used in connection with the graduated scale made a part of the main sheet I.
  • This sheet is provided with a series of perforations graduated, which will allow for variations in the body measured in accordance with this system.
  • Fig. 5 shows the pattern-sheet for the skirt and is composed of three sections K, K', and K2.
  • the main section K is graduated at top and bottom, and carried by it is a section K' of the shape shown, pivoted at its lower end and adjustable at its upper end through an elongated slot k, engaging a headed pin la.
  • the section K2 On the opposite side of the main sheet K the section K2 is connected at its upper end through an elongated slot in the sheet K and a headed pin carried by the section K2, and the section is thus adapted to be swung in or out to widen or narrow, according to the measurement required, while at its lower end it is adapted to be swung out a distance from the main sheet K, being connected thereto by a link 7a2, which is pivoted at its outer end to the section K2 and connects with a headed pin on the sheet through an elongated slot 7a4.
  • a pattern-sheet for the front of the waist consisting of a main section A having a rear eX- tension, a part F having a sliding connection thereto and forming a continuation of the same, an angle-piece having one member secured to the part F near the lower edge thereof, and the other member extending at right angles thereto in line with the front edge of the part A, means for connecting said latter member adj ustably to said edge, and dart-sections pivoted to the angle-piece, said sections being slotted and arranged in pairs the members of each pair con vergin g toward acoinmon pivotal point, a pivot common to each pair of sections extending through the slots therein whereby a sliding pivotal connection is provided, said pieces crossing an opening space formed by the angle-piece, the section A and the piece F, and deiining dart-openings, said pieces shifting both longitudinally and laterally as the angle-piece is moved to change the shape of the dart-openings,
  • an angle-piece havin g one member connected to the part F and the other member extending in line With the front edge of section A, said angle-piece forming with the lower edge of the part A and the inner edge of part F, a central open space, dartpieoes pivoted tothe angle-piece Crossing said space and slidably connected in pairs to the part A, and means for adjustably supporting 1o the angle-piece from the part A, said dart-

Description

No. 662,8I7.
Patented Nov. 27, 1900. J. B. PLANT.
DRESS CHART.
(Application filed Jan. 26, 1900.)
3 Shaets-Shee I.
(No Model.)
me Nonms PETERS ao., PHorQufHo.. wAsmNsToN, n4 c.
No. 662,8l7. Patented Nov. 27, |900.
J. B. PLANT.
DRESS CHART.
{Application led Jan. 26. 1900.|
3 Sheets-Sham 2.
(No Model.)
No. 662,8I7. Patented Nov. 27, |900. J. B. PLANT.
DRESS CHART.
(Application filed Jfm. 26, 1900.)
3 Sheets Sheet 3.
(Nu Model.)
TH: Nonms treks co, Fumo-Limo., msmNsroN, D. c`
llniiTnn STnTns lFaTnniT Ormes.
JOHN B. PLANT, OF PAWTUOKET, RHODE ISLAND.
BRESSE-CHART.
SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 662,817, dated November 27, 1 900.
Application filed January 26, 1900.' Serial No. 2,892. ,(No model.)
To @ZZ when@ t mja/y concern:
Be it known that I, JOHN B. PLANT, a citizen of the United States, residing at Pawtucket, Rhode Island, (whose post-office address is Biddeford, Maine,) haveinvented certain new and useful Improvements in Dress- Outting Charts, of which the following is a specification.
My invention relates to a system of dresscutting,and includes a seriesof pattern-pieces corresponding' to the dierent parts of the garment to be cnt, and each of these patternpieces is composed of a series of movable sections a'dapted to be adjusted to the dimensions of the body to be iitted and forming after thus adjusted a correct pattern which may be laid upon the cloth and along the outline of which the goods may be cut or where in some cases certain of the dimensions are less than the outline of the patternpiece lines may be drawn and the pattern cut upon these lines.
In the accompanying drawings the invention is illustrated.
Figure l shows a View of the pattern-sheet adapted to be used to cut the front sections of the waist. Fig. la is an edge view of the same. Fig. 2 illustrates the pattern-sections for the part of the waist beneath the arm. Fig. 3 shows the section for the side of the back of the waist. Fig. 4L shows the section used in cutting the material for the back of the waist. Fig. 5 shows the pattern-section for the skirt,
Referring to Fig. l, it will be observed that this piece is made up of a series of sections adj ustably connected together. The section A provides a pattern for the front upper part of the waist between the neck and arm openings, and adj ustably connected to this section is a section B, which carries a series of sections O pivotally connected at their lower ends, with their upper ends provided with elongated slots c, which slots engage headed pins c. Two of the sections C cross at the position of the pin and are held by the same pin. These pins are carried at the lower front edge of the section A. The three sections c form, with a fourth section D, dartsections and they indicate. in the spaces E the size of the dart-openings, and these openings Will always conform to the length of the waist as the section B in its adjustment up or down according to the length of Waist will automatically vary the shape and length of the dart-openings. The fourth dart-section D varies from the sections c in that it eX- tends to the lower part of the section BJ, where it engages a slot d through the medium of a headed pin b', which passes through the slot CZ in the extension of the section B and through an opening in the dart-section D, the pin being threaded and provided with a thumb-nut, thus allowing the dart-section D to be moved laterally and to be iixed after such adjustment and then the width of the second dart-opening may be increased or diminished at will. The third section F is adjustably secured to the section A at the rear thereof, and this is intended in connection with the part A of the main section to give the length of the waist at the rear of the front section and to also give the outline of the rear edge of the front part of the waist. This section F is made independently adjustable of the sections A and B, for the reason that the waist-line varies toward the rear of the front waist-section in different indviduals and requires to be independently ascertained. rlhe section F is provided with an elongated slot f about centrally of its width and a second slot f' formed in an extension f2. Headed pins pass through the elongated slotsf and j" and serve as guides to direct the movement of the section F. The extension B of the section B laps the lower part of the section F, and a headed pin, carried by the extension B',engages an elongated slot]03 and serves as a support and guide for the parts. The front edge of the section B is furnished support from the main section by an independent piece B2, which is riveted at its upper end to the section A at its front edge and engages the front edge of the section B by means of a headed pin, the end of which passes through an elongated slot B4 and has a thu rnb-nut on the upper end, so that when the parts are once adjusted they may be held in posit-ion until the pattern or cloth is cut. The edge section B5 of the main section B is further guided by a headed pin passing through the upper end thereof and engaging an elongated slot in the supportingsection Brthis slot being shown at b5. To
IOO
secure the proper length of waist on the front line ofthe waist-section, I provide a graduated strip G, having elongated slots at top and bottom, as at g' g2, the upper slot engaginga headed pin fastened to the main section A, while the lower slot engages the pin which connects the extension B5 with the supporting-section B2. A series of perforations are arranged, as shown at l, 2, and 3, in section A, and these are graduated so as to provide for different measurements of the bust, while the graduated strip G serves to ascertain the length of the waist aft-er the ,bust has been ascertained by being adjusted in relation to the bust-measure, and when this has been ascertained the section Bis moved up or down to give the proper length of the waist, the dartsections automatically indicating the amount of material to be removed to provide for the dart-openings. The section F is provided with a series of openings 4 to indicate the waist-line and, as has been stated, is independently adjusted.
Fig. 2 illustrates the pattern-sheet for the dimensions under the arm of the waist or corsage and consists of three sections H, H', and H2. Section H has a central elongated slot, and mounted upon this section is the section H2, and overlapping the section H2 is the section H'. The latter section has an elongated slot on the right-hand side of its upper end, and a headed pin passes through the elongated slot of H, an opening in H2, and the elongated slot of H', and upon its threaded end carries a thumb-nut. This arrangement allows of the adjustment of the sections H2 H2 simultaneously in relation to section H or independently in relation to section H or to each other. The section H' is further guided by an elongated slot 7L, parallel to the lefthand edge, which engages a headed pin stationary in the lower part of the section H, this pin being shown in section H'. A series of graduated perforations 6 properly numbered indicate the waist-line. Section H2 is also provided with an elongated slot h2, which engages a headed pin, and this serves to properly guide the part in its adjustment. The two parts H' and H2 are connected at their overlapping lower ends by universal connection consisting of a laterally-extended slot hi in the part H' and a longitudinally-extending slot H4 in the part H2, a headed pin passing through these slots and allowing longitudinal movement of the parts H' H2 and a slight lateral movement of the parts H' H2 in relation to each other. The side and top edges of the part H are properly graduated.
Fig. 3 shows the pattern-piece for the side baci; of the Corsage and only differs from the piece shown in Fig. 2 in its outline. In other respects it is identical, being composed of three sections capable of independent adjustment, the two lower sections being capable of slight lateral adjustment as well as longitudinal adjustment.
Fig. 4 is the pattern-piece for the back and consists of the main section I, with a vertically-sliding section I' and a pivoted section I2 pivoted at its upper end and having an elongated slot at its lower end, as at c', which engages a headed pin z" in the section I', with the result that as the section I' is moved longitudinally the pivoted section I-2 is automatically adjusted in or out, so as to have the width correspond to the length ,of waist. The section I' is guided at two points by elongated slots and headed pins. A graduated scale, also having longitudinal movement, is guided along the edge of the pattern-sheet, so as to give the proper length of waist, this scale being used in connection with the graduated scale made a part of the main sheet I. This sheet is provided with a series of perforations graduated, which will allow for variations in the body measured in accordance with this system.
Fig. 5 shows the pattern-sheet for the skirt and is composed of three sections K, K', and K2. The main section K is graduated at top and bottom, and carried by it is a section K' of the shape shown, pivoted at its lower end and adjustable at its upper end through an elongated slot k, engaging a headed pin la. On the opposite side of the main sheet K the section K2 is connected at its upper end through an elongated slot in the sheet K and a headed pin carried by the section K2, and the section is thus adapted to be swung in or out to widen or narrow, according to the measurement required, while at its lower end it is adapted to be swung out a distance from the main sheet K, being connected thereto by a link 7a2, which is pivoted at its outer end to the section K2 and connects with a headed pin on the sheet through an elongated slot 7a4.
What I claim isl. In combination in a dress-cutting chart, a pattern-sheet for the front of the waist consisting of a main section A having a rear eX- tension, a part F having a sliding connection thereto and forming a continuation of the same, an angle-piece having one member secured to the part F near the lower edge thereof, and the other member extending at right angles thereto in line with the front edge of the part A, means for connecting said latter member adj ustably to said edge, and dart-sections pivoted to the angle-piece, said sections being slotted and arranged in pairs the members of each pair con vergin g toward acoinmon pivotal point, a pivot common to each pair of sections extending through the slots therein whereby a sliding pivotal connection is provided, said pieces crossing an opening space formed by the angle-piece, the section A and the piece F, and deiining dart-openings, said pieces shifting both longitudinally and laterally as the angle-piece is moved to change the shape of the dart-openings, substantially as described.
2. In combination in a dress-cutting chart, a main section, a section F forming a continuation of the rear thereof having a sliding IOO IIO
IIS
eonneetion thereto, an angle-piece havin g one member connected to the part F and the other member extending in line With the front edge of section A, said angle-piece forming with the lower edge of the part A and the inner edge of part F, a central open space, dartpieoes pivoted tothe angle-piece Crossing said space and slidably connected in pairs to the part A, and means for adjustably supporting 1o the angle-piece from the part A, said dart-
US289200A 1900-01-26 1900-01-26 Dress-chart. Expired - Lifetime US662817A (en)

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