Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/41—Amines
  • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/88—Polyamides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
  • A61K8/899—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing sulfur, e.g. sodium PG-propyldimethicone thiosulfate copolyol
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
  • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
  • A61K2800/5426—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic

Definitions

• the present invention relates to new cosmetic compositions with improved properties, intended simultaneously for the cleaning, conditioning and styling of hair and including, in a cosmetically acceptable support, a washing base comprising surfactants with detergent power, in which conditioning agents of cationic polymer type are also present in combination with particular silicone derivatives (silicone compounds).
• the invention also relates to the use of the said compositions in the abovementioned cosmetic application.
• detergent hair compositions or shampoos
• conventional surface-active agents especially of anionic, nonionic and/or amphoteric type, but more particularly of anionic type is commonplace for cleaning and/or washing hair.
• conditioning agents intended chiefly to repair or limit the detrimental or undesirable effects induced by the various treatments or attacks to which the hair fibres are more or less repeatedly subjected.
• conditioning agents can, of course, also improve the cosmetic behaviour of natural hair.
• the conditioning agents most commonly employed nowadays in shampoos are cationic polymers, which, in fact, endow washed, dry or wet hair with an ease of disentangling, a smoothness and a sleekness which are markedly enhanced in relation to what can be obtained with the corresponding cleaning compositions which do not contain cationic polymers.
• the present invention is aimed at satisfying such a need.
• the cosmetic properties attached to the washing bases containing the combination of agents (cationic polymer/specific silicone derivative) in accordance with the invention are markedly superior to those that can be obtained by using only one of these agents at equivalent overall concentration.
• the present invention is based on all these discoveries.
• new detergent hair compositions are now proposed, of the type including, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a washing base and at least one cationic polymer, and which are essentially characterized in that they additionally comprise at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible silicone derivative including a silicone main chain onto which at least one hydrocarbon group of anionic nature is grafted.
• Another objective of the invention is the use of the above compositions in cosmetics for the cleaning, conditioning and styling of hair.
• the preferred constituents which enter into the composition of the hair products of the invention are:
• compositions in accordance with the invention necessarily include a washing base, generally aqueous.
• the surfactant(s) forming the washing base may be equally well chosen, by themselves or as mixtures, from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, zwitterionic and cationic surfactants.
• washing base The minimum quantity of washing base is that just sufficing to endow the final composition with a satisfactory foamability and/or detergency, and excessive quantities of washing base do not really bring any additional advantages.
• the washing base may preferably represent from 4% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, and still more preferably from 12% to 20% by weight, of the total weight of the final composition.
• the surfactants which are suitable for making use of the present invention are especially the following:
• anionic surfactants that can be employed, by themselves or as mixtures, in the context of the present invention, there may be mentioned especially (nonlimiting list) the salts (in particular alkali metal, especially sodium, salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylarylpolyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkylsulphonates, alkyl phosphates, alkylamidesulphonates, alkylarylsulphonates, ⁇ -olefinsulphonates, paraffinsulphonates, alkylsulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkylamidesulphosuccinates, alkylsulphosuccinamates, alkylsulphoacetates, alkyl ether phosphat
• anionic surfactants which are further usable there may also be mentioned the salts of fatty acids such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic and stearic acids, the acids of copra oil or of hydrogenated copra oil, and acyllactylates in which the acyl radical contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
• anionic surfactants like alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids and salts thereof, as well as the polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic ether acids and their salts, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups and mixtures thereof.
• the anionic surfactants of the polyalkoxyalkylenated carboxylic ether acid or salt type are in particular those which correspond to the following formula (1):
• R 1 denotes an alkyl or alkaryl group, the alkyl radical preferably containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and aryl preferably denoting phenyl;
• n is a whole or decimal number (mean value) which can preferably range from 2 to 24 and more preferably from 3 to 10;
• A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
• nonionic surface-active agents themselves are also compounds which are well known per se (in this respect see especially the "Handbook of Surfactants” by M. R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178, the disclosure of which is specifically incorporated by reference herein) and, in the context of the present invention, their nature does not assume any critical character.
• They can thus be selected especially from (nonlimiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and polyglycerolated fatty acids which have a fatty chain containing, for example, 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to preferably range from 2 to 50 and it being possible for the number of glycerol groups to preferably range from 2 to 30.
• the copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene and the condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene with fatty alcohols may also be mentioned; the polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, the polyglycerolated fatty amides on average containing 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4, the polyethoxylated fatty amines preferably containing 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, the oxyethylenated esters of sorbitan fatty acids containing from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, the sucrose esters of fatty acids, the polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, alkylpolyglycosides, the N-alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as the oxides of C 10 -C 14 -alkylamines or the N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides. It will be noted that alkylpolyglycosides constitute
• amphoteric or zwitterionic surface-active agents may preferably be (nonlimiting list) derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate); alkyl(C 8 -C 20 )betaines, sulphobetaines, alkyl(C 8 -C 20 )amidoalkyl(C 1 -C 6 )betaines or alkyl(C 8 -C 20 )amidoalkyl(C 1 -C 6 )sulphobetaines may further be mentioned.
• the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulphon
• R 2 denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R 2 --COOH present in hydrolysed copra oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R 3 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R 4 a carboxymethyl group; and
• B denotes --CH 2 CH 2 OX'
• X' denotes the --CH 2 CH 2 --COOH group or a hydrogen atom
• Y' denotes --COOH or the radical --CH 2 --CHOH--SO 3 H
• R 2 ' denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R 9 --COOH present in copra oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, wherein R 9 is an alkyl radical, especially C 7 , C 9 , C 11 or C 13 , a C 17 alkyl radical and its iso form or an unsaturated radical C 17 .
• cocoamphocarboxyglycinate sold under the trade name Miranol C2M concentrated by the Miranol company.
• cationic surfactants there may be mentioned in particular (nonlimiting list): the salts of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium chlorides or bromides, imidazoline derivatives, or amine oxides of cationic nature.
• quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium chlorides or bromides, imidazoline derivatives, or amine oxides of cationic nature.
• cationic surfactants do not constitute the preferred surfactants for making use of the present invention.
• compositions in accordance with the invention additionally necessarily include a cationic polymer.
• conditioning agents of cationic polymer type which can be employed in accordance with the present invention may be selected from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of hair treated with detergent compositions, namely especially those described in patent application EP-A-0 337,354 and in French patent applications FR-A-2,270,846, 2,383,660, 2,598,611, 2,470,596 and 2,519,863, the disclosures of which are specifically incorporated herein.
• cationic polymer denotes any polymer containing cationic groups or groups that can ionize to cationic groups.
• the preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups which may either form part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a side substituent bonded directly to the latter.
• the cationic polymers employed have generally a molecular mass preferably ranging from 500 to 5 ⁇ 10 3 and more preferably from 10 3 to 3 ⁇ 10 6 .
• cationic polymers there may be mentioned more particularly quaternized proteins (or protein hydrolysates), quaternized polysiloxanes and polymers of the quaternary polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyammonium type. These are known products.
• the quaternized proteins or protein hydrolysates are in particular chemically modified polypeptides carrying quaternary ammonium groups at the end of a chain or grafted onto the latter.
• Their molecular mass may vary, for example, from 1500 to 10,000, and in particular from 2000 to 5000.
• these compounds there may be mentioned in particular:
• the collagen hydrolysates carrying triethylammonium groups such as the products sold under the name “Quat-Pro E” by the Maybrook company and called “Triethonium Hydrolyzed Collagen Ethosulfate” in the CTFA dictionary;
• animal protein hydrolysates carrying trimethylbenzylammonium groups such as the products sold under the name “Crotein BTA” by the Croda company and called “Benzyltrimonium hydrolyzed animal protein” in the CTFA dictionary;
• the protein hydrolysates carrying, on the polypeptide chain, quaternary ammonium groups comprising at least one alkyl radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
• Crotein Q in which the quaternary ammonium groups comprise at least one alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
• quaternized proteins or hydrolysates are, for example, those corresponding to the formula: ##STR1## wherein X - is an anion of an organic or inorganic acid;
• A denotes a protein residue derived from collagen protein hydrolysates
• R 5 denotes a lipophilic group containing up to 30 carbon atoms
• R 6 denotes an alkylene group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
• quaternized vegetable proteins such as wheat, maize or soya proteins
• quaternized wheat proteins there may be mentioned those marketed by the Croda company under the names "Hydrotriticum WQ or QM”, called “Cocodimonium Hydrolysed wheat protein” in the CTFA dictionary, "Hydrotriticum QL” called “Laurdimonium hydrolysed wheat protein” in the CTFA dictionary, or else "Hydrotriticum QS”, called “Steardimonium hydrolysed wheat protein” in the CTFA dictionary.
• Another class of cationic polymers is that of the silicone cationic polymers.
• silicone cationic polymers there may be mentioned:
• G is a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, OH or C 1 -C 8 alkyl, for example methyl, group;
• a denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, preferably 0;
• b denotes 0 or 1, preferably 1;
• n and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) may vary especially from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and preferably from 49 to 149 and it being possible for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and preferably from 1 to 10.
• R' is a monovalent radical of formula --C q H 2q L in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amine group chosen from the groups:
• R" may denote hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms;
• a - denotes a halide ion such as, for example, fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
• a product corresponding to this definition is the polymer called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone", corresponding to the formula: ##STR3## wherein: n and m have the meanings given above in formula III.
• R 7 denotes a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms and in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkyl or C 2 -C 18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl;
• R 8 denotes a divalent hydrocarbon radical, especially a C 1 -C 18 alkylene radical or a divalent C 1 -C 18 , for example C 1 -C 8 , alkyleneoxy radical;
• Q - is a halide ion, especially chloride
• r denotes a mean statistical value from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 8;
• s denotes a mean statistical value from 20 to 200, preferably from 20 to 50.
• a polymer which enters within this class is the polymer sold by the Union Carbide company under the name "Ucar Silicone ALE 563".
• a particularly advantageous embodiment is their joint use with cationic and/or nonionic surface agents.
• cationic surface agent including a mixture of products corresponding to the formula: ##STR5## wherein: R 9 denotes alkenyl and/or alkyl radicals containing from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, derived from tallow fatty acids,
• n 6, also called isolaureth-6, and glycol.
• polymers of the polyamine, polyamidoamide and quaternary polyammonium type which can be employed in accordance with the present invention, which may be especially mentioned are those described in French patents No. 2,505,348 or 2,542,997, the disclosures of which are specifically incorporated by reference herein. Among these polymers there may be mentioned:
• the quaternized or unquaternized dialkylaminoalkyl vinylpyrrolidoneacrylate or -methacrylate copolymers such as the products sold under the name "Gafquat” by the company GAF Corporation, such as, for example, Gafquat 734, 755 or HS100 or else the product called "Copolymer 937". These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573, the disclosures of which are specifically incorporated by reference herein.
• Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a quaternary ammonium water-soluble monomer, and described especially in U.S. Pat. No. 4,131,576, the disclosure of which is specifically incorporated by reference herein, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses like hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted especially with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyidiallylammonium salt.
• Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylenepolyamines with polycarboxylic acids, followed by an alkylation with difunctional agents There may be mentioned, for example, the adipic acid--dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl.
• alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl.
• Such polymers are described especially in French patent 1,583,363, the disclosure of which is specifically incorporated by reference herein.
• adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the Sandoz company.
• Such polymers are described especially in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,227,615 and 2,961,347, the disclosures of which are specifically incorporated by reference herein.
• Polymers of this type are marketed in particular under the name "Hercosett 57” by the Hercules Inc. company or else under the name of "PD 170” or “Delsette 101” by the Hercules company in the case of the copolymer of adipic acidlepoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine.
• R 12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
• R 10 and R 11 independently denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, or a lower amidoalkyl group or
• R 10 and R 11 may denote, jointly with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl;
• Y - is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulphate, bisulphite, sulphate or phosphate.
• R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 together or separately, form, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocyclic rings optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or
• R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 denote a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or --CO--O--R 17 --D or --CO--NH--R 17 --D group where R 17 is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group;
• a 1 and B 1 denote polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and which may contain, bonded to or inserted into the main chain, one or several aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulphur atoms or sulphoxide, sulphone, disulphide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
• X - denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid
• a 1 , R 13 and R 15 , with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, may form a piperazine ring;
• a 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical
• B 1 may also denote a group (CH 2 ) n --CO--D--OC--(CH 2 ) n --
• x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, denoting a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 denoting a mean degree of polymerization;
• a disecondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative
• These polymers have a molecular mass which generally ranges from 1000 to 100,000.
• Quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising units of formula (VIII): ##STR8## wherein: R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 independently denote a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, ⁇ -hydroxyethyl, ⁇ -hydroxypropyl or --CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) p OH radical;
• p is equal to 0 or to an integer ranging from 1 to 6 if R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 do not simultaneously denote a hydrogen atom;
• r and s independently represent integers ranging from 1 to 6;
• q is equal to 0 or to an integer ranging from 1 to 34;
• X denotes a halogen atom
• A denotes a radical of a dihalide or preferably denotes --CH 2 --CH 2 --O--CH 2 --CH 2 --.
• R 23 , R 24 and R 25 independently denote an alkyl group with 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical
• R 26 and R 27 denote a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group with 1 to 6 carbon atoms
• X 2 - denotes an anion, for example methosulphate or halide, such as chloride or bromide.
• the comonomer(s) which may be employed in the preparation of the corresponding copolymers belong to the class of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted under nitrogen by lower alkyls, alkyl esters, acrylic or methacrylic acids, vinylpyrrolidone or vinyl esters.
• Quaternary vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole polymers such as, for example, the products marketed under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B.A.S.F.
• the crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride polymers such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with a compound containing olefinic unsaturation, in particular methylenebisacrylamide.
• a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of dispersion containing 50% by weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil.
• This dispersion is marketed under the name of "Salcare SC 92" by the Allied Colloids company.
• cationic polymers that may be employed within the scope of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
• quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name "JR 400" by the company Union Carbide Corporation, cyclopolymers, in particular the copolymers of dimethyidiallylammonium chloride and of acrylamide which have a molecular weight higher than 500 000, sold under the names "Merquat 550" and “Merquat S” by the Merck company, cationic polysaccharides and more particular the polymer sold under the name "Jaguar C13S" by the Meyhall company and, finally, silicone cationic polymers.
• the cationic polymer(s) may represent from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and still more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, of the total weight of the final composition.
• these additionally comprise at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible specific silicone derivative.
• silicone is intended to denote--in agreement with the general understanding--any organosilicon polymers or oligomers of linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, which are obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes and comprising a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are joined together by oxygen atoms (.tbd.Si--O--Si.tbd. siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being joined directly through the intermediacy of a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms.
• hydrocarbon radicals are the alkyl radicals, especially C 1 -C 10 and in particular methyl, fluoroalkyl radicals, aryl radicals and in particular phenyl, and alkenyl radicals and in particular vinyl; other types of radicals capable of being joined either directly or through the intermediacy of a hydrocarbon radical to the siloxane chain are especially hydrogen, the halogens and in particular chlorine, bromine or fluorine, thiols, alkoxy radicals, polyoxyalkylene radicals (or polyethers) and in particular polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene, hydroxyl or hydroxyalkyl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, amide groups, acyloxy or acyloxyalkyl radicals, hydroxyalkylamino or aminoalkyl radicals, quaternary ammonium groups, amphoteric or betainic groups, anionic groups such as carboxylates, thioglycolates, sulphosuccin
• the silicone derivative(s) which must be employed are those which include a silicone (or polysiloxane (.tbd.Si--O--) n ) main chain on which there is grafted at least one hydrocarbon group of anionic character, within the said chain and optionally at at least one of its ends.
• hydrocarbon group "of anionic character” is intended to mean any hydrocarbon group 2 0 containing at least one anionic unit or at least one unit which can be ionized to an anionic unit.
• the nature and/or the quantity of the said hydrocarbon groups of anionic character which are grafted onto the silicone chain must be chosen so that the corresponding silicone derivative is water-soluble or water-dispersible, after possible neutralization of the groups of anionic character by means of an alkaline agent.
• silicone derivatives may be existing commercial products, or else may be obtained by any means known to a person skilled in the art, in particular by reaction between (i) a starting silicone correctly functionalized on one or more of these silicon atoms and (ii) an anionic compound, itself correctly functionalized by a functional group which is capable of reacting with the functional group(s) carried by the said silicone by forming a covalent bond; a classic example of such a reaction is the hydrosilylation reaction between .tbd.Si--H groups and CH 2 ⁇ CH-- vinyl groups, or else the reaction between --SH thiofunctional groups with these same vinyl groups.
• the said hydrocarbon group of anionic character includes the result of the radical (homo)polymerization of at least one anionic monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation.
• the silicone derivative used includes the result of the radical copolymerization between, on the one hand, at least one anionic monomer exhibiting an ethylenic unsaturation and, on the other hand, a silicone exhibiting in its chain at least one, and preferably several, functional groups capable of reacting with the said ethylenic unsaturation of the said anionic monomer by forming a covalent bond, in particular thiofunctional groups.
• the anionic monomers containing ethylenic unsaturation are preferably chosen, alone or as mixtures, from linear or branched, unsaturated carboxylic acids, optionally partially or completely neutralized in the form of a salt, it being possible for this or these carboxylic acids to be more particularly acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, fumaric acid and crotonic acid.
• the suitable salts are especially the alkali or alkaline-earth metal and ammonium salts.
• the hydrocarbon group of anionic character which includes the result of the radical (homo)polymerization of at least one anionic monomer of unsaturated carboxylic acid type may be, after reaction, post-neutralized with a base (sodium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, etc) in order to bring it into the form of a salt.
• silicone derivatives which are suitable for making use of the present invention, as well as their particular method of preparation, are described especially in patent applications EP-A-0 582,152 and WO 93/23009, the disclosures of which are specifically incorporated by reference herein.
• silicone derivatives described in these two documents it is appropriate to retain, as indicated above, only those in the case of which the polysiloxane chain comprises anionic polymeric grafts capable of endowing the final product with its water-soluble or water-dispersible nature.
• a class of silicone derivatives which is particularly well suited for making use of the present invention consists of the silicone derivatives comprising the following unit in their structure: ##STR10## wherein G 1 denotes hydrogen or a C 1 -C 10 alkyl radical or else a phenyl radical;
• G 2 denotes a C 1 -C 10 alkylene group
• G 3 denotes an anionic polymeric residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one anionic monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation
• n is equal to 0 or 1;
• a is an integer preferably ranging from 1 to 50;
• b is an integer preferably ranging from 10 to 350.
• the unit of formula (IX) above preferably exhibits at least one, and still more preferably the combination, of the following characteristics:
• G 1 is a C 1 -C 10 alkyl radical, preferably the methyl radical
• n is not zero and G 2 denotes a C 1 -C 3 divalent radical, preferably a C 1 -C 3 alkylene radical, and more preferably a propylene radical,
• G 3 denotes a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one monomer of the unsaturated carboxylic acid type, preferably acrylic and/or methacrylic acid.
• the carboxylate group content in the final polymer preferably ranges from 1 mole of carboxylate per 200 g of polymer to 1 mole of carboxylate per 5000 g of polymer.
• the number molecular mass of the silicone polymer preferably ranges from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and still more preferably from 10,000 to 100,000.
• silicone derivatives which are particularly well suited to the carrying out of the present invention are especially those sold by the 3M company under the trade name of "Silicones "Plus” Polymers VS 80". These products correspond to polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, through the intermediacy of a connecting link of thiopropylene type, mixed polymer units of the poly(meth)acrylic acid type and of the butyl poly(meth)acrylate ester type.
• PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
• the hair compositions in accordance with the invention contain the silicone derivatives defined above in weight contents which may preferably range from 0.05% to 10%, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% and, still more preferably, from 0.2% to 3%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the carrier, or support, of the detergent compositions according to the invention is preferably water or a hydroalcoholic solution of a lower alcohol such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol.
• the detergent compositions according to the invention have a final pH which generally ranges from 3 to 10. This pH more preferably ranges from 5.5 to 8.
• the adjustment of the pH to the desired value may be made conventionally by adding a base (organic or inorganic) into the composition, for example aqueous ammonia or a primary, secondary or tertiary (poly)amine like monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3-propanediamine, or else by adding an acid, preferably a carboxylic acid such as, for example, citric acid.
• the detergent compositions according to the invention may, of course, additionally contain any of the usual adjuvants encountered in the field of shampoos, like, for example, perfumes, preserving agents, sequestrants, thickeners, emollients, foam modifiers, colorants, pearlescent agents, hydrating agents, antidandruff or antiseborrhoeic agents, vitamins, sunscreens and others.
• compositions may be in the form of more or less thickened liquids, of creams or of gel and are suitable chiefly for the washing, the care and/or the styling of hair. They may also be presented in the form of rinsing lotions.
• compositions in accordance with the invention are used as conventional shampoos, they are simply applied to wet hair and the foam generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands is subsequently removed, after an optional interval, by rinsing with water, it being possible for the operation to be repeated one or more times.
• compositions in accordance with the invention endow the hair, after rinsing, with a remarkable styling effect which is reflected especially in an ease of styling and of holding the style, as well as a contribution of body and lightness, which are markedly improved.
• composition A Two shampoo compositions were produced, one in accordance with the invention (composition A) and the other comparative (composition B), differing from each other simply in the nature of the silicone derivative employed:
• Strands of 2.7 g of bleached hair (15.7% of alkaline solubility) 24 cm in length were prewetted and then placed in contact with 1 g of the composition A according to the invention for 10 minutes and then rinsed with water.
• the strands were then wound onto curlers 2 cm in diameter and 7 cm in length.
• the strands were then dried for 30 minutes in a helmet hairdrier and then carefully removed from the curlers. Curled dried strands were thus obtained.
• the length (L) of the curled strands suspended only by their weight was then measured before a graduated panel.
• the length of the suspended strands then increased by a certain length ( ⁇ L).
• ⁇ L the shorter this lengthening ⁇ L, the better the style holding with time.
• the lengthening was 3.6 cm, whereas it was only 3 cm with the composition A; that is an improvement in the reduction of the lengthening of more than 16%, which reflects well the better style holding obtained by virtue of the shampoo according to the invention.
• composition C composition C
• composition D composition D
• Strands of 2.7 g of bleached hair (15.7% of alkaline solubility) 24 cm in length were prewefted and then placed in contact for a first time with 1 g of the composition C according to the invention for 10 minutes and were then rinsed with water and then placed in contact a second time with 1 g of this same composition C, again for 10 minutes, and were finally rinsed a second time.
• the strands were then wound onto curlers 2 cm in diameter and 7 cm in length.
• the strands were then dried for 30 minutes in the helmet hairdrier and then carefully removed from the curlers. Curled dried strands were thus obtained.
• the strand treated with the composition C according to the invention was less liable to distortion than that treated with the comparative composition D, which reflects well the superiority of the styling effect attached to the shampoo according to the invention.

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Citations (17)

• 1995
  • 1995-07-07 FR FR9508271A patent/FR2736262B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 1996
  • 1996-06-13 AT AT96401292T patent/ATE156347T1/de active
  • 1996-06-13 DE DE69600048T patent/DE69600048T2/de not_active Expired - Lifetime
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  • 1996-06-13 WO PCT/FR1996/000907 patent/WO1997002804A1/fr active IP Right Grant
  • 1996-06-13 JP JP09505540A patent/JP3105002B2/ja not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 1996-06-13 KR KR1019970708660A patent/KR100272784B1/ko not_active IP Right Cessation
  • 1996-06-13 CA CA002223843A patent/CA2223843C/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 1996-06-13 PL PL96324398A patent/PL184818B1/pl not_active IP Right Cessation
  • 1996-06-13 CN CNB961953020A patent/CN1155361C/zh not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 1996-06-13 HU HU9900334A patent/HUP9900334A3/hu unknown
  • 1996-06-13 ES ES96401292T patent/ES2108590T3/es not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 1996-06-13 BR BR9608501A patent/BR9608501A/pt not_active IP Right Cessation
  • 1996-06-13 RU RU98101912A patent/RU2147870C1/ru not_active IP Right Cessation
  • 1996-07-05 US US08/675,827 patent/US6022836A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 1996-07-05 AR AR10346496A patent/AR002694A1/es unknown

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