MXPA97003135A - Cosmetic compositions detergents for capillary use and its use - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to new detergent and conditioning hair compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, (A) a washing base and (B) a conditioning system comprising at least one cationic polymer and a mixture of at least one aminated silicone. and of at least one insoluble silicone with viscosity less than or equal to 100 Pa.s (100,000 cSt). Application in the cleaning and treatment of hair

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS DETERGENTS FOR HAIR USE AND ITS USE Field of the invention The present invention relates to new cosmetic compositions with improved properties intended simultaneously for cleaning and conditioning the hair, and comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable support, a washing base consisting of surfactants of detergent power in which they are found. also present as conditioning agents, cationic polymers in association with particular silicones. The invention also relates to the use of the said compositions in the aforementioned cosmetic application.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION For the cleaning and / or washing of the hair, the use of detergent hair compositions (or shampoos) based essentially on classic surfactants of a particularly anionic, non-ionic and / or amphoteric type, but more REF: 24614 particularly of the anionic type It is current. These compositions are applied to wet hair and the foam generated by massage or friction with the hands allows, after rinsing with water, the elimination of the various dirt initially present in the hair. These basic compositions have, of course, a good washing power, but the inherent intrinsic cosmetic properties are still quite low, particularly in view of the fact that the relatively aggressive nature of such a cleaning treatment can produce the long on the hair fiber damage more or less accused related in particular with the progressive elimination of the lipids or proteins contained in or on the surface of the latter. Also, to improve the cosmetic properties of the aforementioned detergent compositions, and more particularly those that are called to be applied on sensitive hair ie, hair that is damaged or weakened particularly under the chemical action of atmospheric agents and / or hair treatments such as permanent, dyes or discolorations), it is now usual to introduce in these latter complementary cosmetics agents called conditioning agents intended mainly to repair or to limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by the different treatments or aggressions they experience, in a more or less repeated, the hair fibers. These conditioning agents can also be understood to improve the cosmetic behavior of natural hair. The conditioning agents most commonly used in shampoos today are cationic polymers, silicones and / or silicone derivatives, which in effect give washed, dry or wet hair an ease of disentangling, a softness and a clear smoothing increased in relation to what can be obtained with the corresponding cleaning compositions that are exempt from them. In addition, in sensitized hair, it is known to preferably use a mixture of silicone and cationic polymer. However, despite recent progress in the field of shampoos based on cationic polymers and silicone, the latter do not really satisfy completely, so that there is still a strong need at present for the availability of new products presenting at the level of one or more of the cosmetic properties mentioned above, better yields. The present invention seeks to satisfy said need.

Description of the invention Thus, as a consequence of important investigations carried out on the matter, the applicant firm has now found, in a totally unexpected and surprising way, that by using an association of two types of particular and properly selected silicones, such as those defined below, in detergent hair compositions containing classic cationic polymers as conditioning agents, it is possible to substantially and significantly improve the cosmetic properties linked to the latter, and all this while maintaining its good intrinsic washing power. The compositions according to the invention confer to the hair, after rinsing, a remarkable treatment effect which is manifested particularly by an ease of detangle, as well as a contribution of volume, lightness, smoothing, softness and ease. All these discoveries form the basis of the present invention. Thus, according to the present invention, new detergent and conditioning hair compositions have been proposed which comprise, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, (A) a washing base and (B) a conditioning system comprising at least one cationic polymer and a mixture of minus one amino silicone and at least one insoluble silicone with a viscosity less than or equal to 100 Pa.s (100,000 cSt). Another subject of the invention is the use in cosmetics of the abovementioned compositions for cleaning and conditioning the hair. But other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly with the reading of the following description as well as concrete, but by no means limiting, examples intended to illustrate it. As indicated above, the essential elements that enter into the composition of the hair products according to the invention are (A) a washing base, (B) a conditioning system comprising (i) the cationic polymer (s), (ii) the or the silicones to inadas and (iii) the insoluble silicones or silicones of specific viscosity.

A - BASE WASHING: The compositions according to the invention necessarily comprise a washing base, generally aqueous. The surfactant (s) forming the washing base can be chosen, either alone or in combination, with anionic, amphoteric, nonionic and cationic surfactants. However, according to the invention, the washing base preferably comprises anionic surfactants or mixtures of anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants, and even more preferably only contains this type of surfactant or mixture of surfactants. The minimum amount of washing base is just sufficient to confer a satisfactory foaming and / or detergent power to the final composition, and too large amounts of washing base do not truly provide additional benefits.

Thus, according to the invention, the washing base may represent from 4% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 35% by weight, and even more preferably from 12% to 25% by weight, of the total weight of the final composition. The surfactants which are suitable for carrying out the present invention are particularly the following: (i) Anionic Surfactant Agent (s): Its nature does not have, in the context of the present invention, a truly critical character. Thus, by way of example of usable anionic surfactants, alone or in combination, within the framework of the present invention, mention may be made in particular (non-limiting list) of the salts (in particular alkali salts, particularly sodium, ammonium salts, salts of amines, salts of aminoalcohols or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; alkylsulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkylaminosulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkylether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinamates; the alkylsulfoacetates; alkylether phosphates; acyl sarcosinates; the acyl isethionates and the N-acyltaurates, including the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different compounds preferably of 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical designating preferably a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the still usable anionic surfactants, mention may also be made of salts of fatty acids such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic, stearic acids, copra oil acids or hydrogenated copra oil; the acyl lactylates whose acyl radical includes from 8 to 20 carbon atoms. It is also possible to use poorly anionic surfactants, such as alkyl D galactoside-uronic acids and their salts, as well as polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid ethers and their salts, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof. The anionic surfactants of the polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid or carboxylic acid ester type are in particular those corresponding to the following formula (1): Rl ^ -fOC2H4) -5- OCH2COOA (1) in which: R1 denotes an alkyl or alkaryl group, and n is an integer or decimal number (average value) which can vary from 2 to 24 and preferably from 3 to 10, the alkyl radical having between about 6 and about 20 carbon atoms, and aryl which designates preferably phenyl, A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine moiety. It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (1), in particular mixtures in which the Ri groups are different. Among the anionic surfactants, it is preferred to use the salts of alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulphates and their mixtures according to the invention. (ii) Non-ionic surfactant (s): The non-ionic surfactants are, also, well-known compounds per se (see particularly in this regard "Handbook of Surfactants "by M.R. PORTER, Editions Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178) and its nature does not, within the framework of the present invention, be critical. Thus, alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, with a fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 18 carbon atoms, can be chosen from among the (non-limiting list). The number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups can range from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups can range from 2 to 30. The copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene, the ethylene oxide condensates can also be mentioned. and of propylene on fatty alcohols; the polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, the polyglycerolated fatty amides which include, on average, from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4; the polyethoxylated fatty amines preferably having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; the oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, alkyl polyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as alkyl (C? oC? 4) amines or oxides of N-acylaminopropylmorpholine. It will be appreciated that the alkyl polyglycosides constitute non-ionic surfactants that come particularly well within the scope of the present invention. (iii) Amphoteric surfactant (s): Amphoteric surfactants, whose nature is not critical in the context of the present invention, can be particularly (non-limiting list) derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which the aliphatic radical is a straight or branched chain including 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); Mention may also be made of (C 8 C 20) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkyl, amidoalkyl (d C 6) betaines or (C 1 -C 20) alkyl amidoalkyl (C 1 -C 6 sulfobetaines) Among the derivatives of amines, mention may be made of the products sold under the name MIRANOL, such as those described in US-2,528,378 and US-2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names Amphocarboxiglycinates and Amphocarboxypropionates of respective structures.

R2 -CONHCH2CH2-N (R3) (R4) (CH2C00") (2) wherein: R2 denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R2-COOH present in the hydrolyzed copra oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R3 designates a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R4 a carboxymethyl group; Y R2'-C0NHCH2CH2-N (B) (C) (3) wherein: B represents -CH2CH2OX ', C represents - (CH2) z ~ Y' with z = 1 or 2, X1 denotes the group -CH2CH2-COOH or a hydrogen atom Y 'designates -COOH or the radical -CH2 -CHOH-SO3H. R2 'designates an alkyl radical of an acid R9 COOH present in the copra oil or in the hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, particularly of C? , C9, Cu or C13, an alkyl radical of C17 and its iso form, an unsaturated C17 radical. By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoanfocarboxiglycinate sold under the trade name MIRANOL C2M concentrate by the company MIRANOL.

(IV) Cationic surfactants: Among the cationic surfactants, mention may be made in particular (non-limiting list): the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzyl ammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkyl ammonium or alkyl pyridinium chlorides or bromides; the imidazoline derivatives; or the amine oxides of cationic character. It will be appreciated that cationic surfactants, whose use is not excluded, are not preferred surfactants for the embodiment of the present invention.B- CONDITIONER SYSTEM (i) Cationic polymer (s): The compositions according to the invention also necessarily comprise a cationic polymer. The cationic polymer type conditioning agents which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be selected from among those already known per se as enhancers of the cosmetic properties of the hair treated by detergent compositions, namely those described in the EP patent application. A-0337,354 and in the French patent applications FR-A-2,270,846, 2,383,660, 2,598,611, 2,470,596 and 2,519,863, In a more general manner, in the sense of the present invention, the The term "cationic polymer" refers to any polymer that contains cationic groups and / or ionizable groups in cationic groups.The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those containing units that include primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups that can either form part of the main polymer chain, or be carried by a lateral substituent directly attached to it. The ionics used generally have a molecular mass in the range of between 500 and 5.10 approximately, and preferably between 6 and 10 approximately. Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of quaternized proteins (or protein hydrolysates) and polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type. These are known products. Proteins or hydrolysates of quaternized proteins are in particular chemically modified polypeptides which carry at the end of the chain, or grafted therein, quaternary ammonium groups. Their molecular mass can vary, for example, from 1500 to 10,000, and in particular from 2,000 to 5,000. Among these compounds, mention may be made in particular of: - collagen hydrolysates carrying triethylammonium groups such as the products sold under the name "Quat-Pro E" by the company MAYBROOK and named in the CTFA dictionary "Triéthonium Hydrolyzed Collagen Ethosulfate"; the collagen hydrolysates carrying trimethylammonium chloride and trimethylstearylammonium groups, sold under the name "Quat-Pro S" by the Maybrook Company and named in the CTFA dictionary "Steartrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen". - the animal protein hydrolysates carrying tri-ethylbenzylammonium groups such as the products sold under the name "Crotein BTA" by the CRODA Company and designated in the CTFA dictionary "Benzyltrimonium hydrolyzed animal protein". - the protein hydrolysates carrying on the polypeptide chain quaternary ammonium groups comprising at least one alkyl radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms. Among these protein hydrolysates, mention may be made, among others: "Croquat L" whose quaternary ammonium groups include an alkyl group of C12; The "Croquat M" whose quaternary ammonium groups include Cio-Cia alkyl groups; The "Croquat S" whose quaternary ammonium groups include an alkyl group of Cie; "Crotein Q" whose quaternary ammonium groups comprise at least one alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

These different products are sold by the CRODA Company. Other proteins or quaternized hydrolysates are, for example, those that correspond to the formula: wherein X 'is an anion of an organic or mineral acid, A designates a protein residue derived from collagen protein hydrolysates, R5 denotes a lipophilic group including up to 30 carbon atoms, R6 represents an alkylene group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms »For example, the products sold by the Inolex Company, under the name" Lexein QX 3000", referred to in the CTFA dictionary (June 4, 1991) as" Quaternium-76 Hydrolized Collagen ". Mention may also be made of quaternized vegetable proteins such as wheat proteins., of corn or soya: as quaternized wheat proteins, those commercialized by the Croda Company under the names "Hydrotriticum WQ or QM", referred to in the CTFA dictionary "Cocodimonium Hydrolysed Wheat Protein", "Hydrotriticum QL" referred to in the CTFA dictionary "Laurdimonium hydrolysed wheat protein", or also "Hydrotriticum QS", named in the CTFA dictionary "Steardimonium hydrolysed wheat protein". The polyamines of the polyamine, polyamido, quaternary polyammonium type, usable according to the present invention, which can be particularly mentioned, are those described in French patents No. 2,505,348 or 2,542,997. Among these polymers, there may be mentioned: (1) quaternized or not quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-acrylate or dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylate copolymers, such as products sold under the name "Gafquat by the ISP Company, such as Gafquat 734, 755 or HS100 or the product called "Copolymere 937." These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573. (2) The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups described in French Patent 1,492-597, and in particular the polymers marketed under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the Union Carbide Corporation These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as ammonium Quaternary hydroxyethylcellulose that has reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group. (3) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and particularly described in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, dimethyldiallylammonium. The products marketed that meet this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company. (4) The cationic poccharides described more particularly in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307 such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. For example, guar gums modified by a salt (for example chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium are used. Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names of JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 or JAGUAR C162 by the MEYHALL Company. 5) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals of straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers. Such polymers are particularly described in French patents 2,162,025 and 2,280,361; (6) Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-acetidinium, a bis-haloacidiamine, an alkyl bis-halide or even an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a reactive bifunctional compound with respect to a bis-halohydrin, a bis-acetidinium, a bis-haloacildiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, an epylhalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 moles per amine group of the polymaoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they include one or more tertiary, quaternized amines functions. Such polymers are particularly described in French patents 2,252,840 and 2,368,508. (7) The polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by an alkylation by bifunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of the adipic acid-dialkylaminohydroxy-alkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical includes from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl, propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent 1,583,363. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name "Chart Retine F, F4 or F8" by the Sandoz Company. (8) Polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine including two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1: the resulting polyaminoamide is brought to react with the epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide comprised between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such polymers are. particularly describe in the American patents 3,227,615 and 2,961,347. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name "Hercosett 57" by the Hercules Company Inc. or under the name of "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the Hercules Company in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl copolymer / diethylene triamine. (9) The cyclohomopolymers of methyl diallylamine or of dimethyl diallyl ammonium such as the homopolymers which include units corresponding to the formula (VI) or (VI1) as the main constituent of the chain: "-CH, - formulas in which k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum of k + t being equal to l; R 12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; Rio and Rll independently of each other, designate an alkyl group having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group or Rio and R11 may designate together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; And it is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. These polymers are described in particular in French patent 2,080,759 and in their certificate of addition 2,190,406. Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the name "Merquat 100" by the Merck Company. (10) The quaternary diammonium polymer containing recurring units that correspond to the formula: formula (VII) in which: Ri3 / Rl4 / R15 and Ri6 identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaiphatic radicals, or R13, R14, R15 and Riß together or separately, they constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which heterocycles which optionally contain a second heteroatom other than nitrogen are linked or Ri3 Ri4 R15 and Ri6 / represent a linear or branched Ci-Cβ alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile group , ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D wherein R17 is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group; Ai and Bi represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked or interspersed in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more atoms oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and X "designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; Ai, R13 and R15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which a piperazine cycle is linked; In addition, if i denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi may also designate a group (CH2) n-CO D-OC- (CH2) n- in which D designates: a) a glycol radical of the formula: -0-ZO, wherein Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group that responds to one of the following formulas: - (CH -CH2-0)? -CH2-CH2- - [CH2 CH (CH3) -0] y -CH2-CH (CH3) - where x and y designate an integer of 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing a degree of average polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of the formula: -NH-Y-NH, wherein Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or the bivalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-; d) a ureylene group of the formula: -NH-CO-NH-; Preferably, X ~ is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number molecular mass generally comprised between 1000 and 100000. Polymers of this type are particularly described in French patents 2,320,330, 2,270,846, 2,316,271, 2,336,434 and 2,455,907 and US patents 2,273. .780, 2.375.853, 2.388.614, 2.454.547, 3.206.462, 2.261.002, 2.271.378, 3.874.870, 4.001.432, 3.929.990, 3.966.904, 4.005.193, 4.025.617 , 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945 and 4,027,020. (11) The quaternary polyammonium polymers constituted by units of formula (VIII): I I20 --N > - (CH2) r- H-CO (CH2) q-CO-NH- (CH-) s -N + -A-? - I X- I Ri9 (VIII) R21 Formula in which: R18 / R19 / R20 and R2I identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, ethyl, propyl, ß-hydroxyethyl, ß-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2 (OCH2CH2) pOH, where p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that Riß R19 / R20 and R21 / n represent simultaneously a hydrogen atom, r and s, identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6, q is equal to 0 or an integer comprised between 1 and 34, X designates a halogen atom, A designates a radical of a dihalogenide or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2- Such compounds are described in particular in the patent application EP-A-122 324. For example, the products "Mirapol A 15", "Mirapol AD1" can be mentioned. "," Mirapol AZI "and" Mirapol 175"sold by the Miranol Company. (12) Homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids and including units: wherein the groups R22 independently designate H or CH3, the groups Ai independently designate a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, the groups R23 r R24 R25 identical or different, which designate independently an alkyl group of 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, the groups R26 and R27 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, X2"designates an anion, for example methosulfate or halide, such as chloride or bromide The comonomer (s) used in the preparation of the corresponding copolymers belong to the family of the acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted with nitrogen by lower alkyls, alkyl esters, acids Acrylic or methacrylic, vinylpyrrolidone or vinyl esters. (13) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl dazol such as, for example, the products marketed under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B.A.S.F. (14) Polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by HENKEL, referenced under the name "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary. (15) The crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, homo or copolymerization which is followed by crosslinking by an olefinic unsaturation compound, in particular methylene bis acrylamide. More particularly, a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) can be used in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE SC 92" by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride containing approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in the mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE SC 95" by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS. Other cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and the derivatives of chitin. According to the invention, polymers selected from Mirapol, the compound of formula (VII) in which R13, R14 / R15 and R16 > represent the methyl radical, Ai represents the radical of the formula - (CH2) 3 ~ and Bi represents the radical of the formula - (CH2) - β and X represents the chloride anion (later called Mexomere PO) and the compound of the formula (VII) wherein R13 and R14 represent the ethyl radical, R15 and Rie represent the methyl radical, Ai and Bi represent the radical of formula - (CH2) 3 and X represents the bromide anion (later called Mexomere PAK). Among all the cationic polymers which can be used within the framework of the present invention, it is preferred to use the quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name "JR 400" by the company UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION, the cyclopolymers, in in particular the copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and of acrylamide, sold under the names "MERQUAT 550 ,, and" MERQUAT S ', by the company MERCK, cationic polysaccharides and more particularly guar gum modified by 2,3-epoxypropyl chloride trimethylammonium sold under the name "JAGUAR C13S" by the MEYHALL Company. According to the invention, the cationic polymer (s) can represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight, of the total weight of the final composition. (ii) - Silicone mixture According to an essential characteristic of the detergent hair compositions according to the invention, the latter also contain a mixture of at least one amino silicone and at least one specific silicone (different from the previous one) insoluble with viscosity less than or equal to 100 Pa.s (100 000 cSt). According to a preferred feature of the compositions according to the invention, the conditioning system linked to the latter does not contain silicones other than the aminated silicones and the insoluble silicones of viscosity according to the invention. (1) - Aminated silicone (s) According to the invention, silicone is designated by any silicone that includes at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group. It can thus be mentioned: (a) the polysiloxanes referred to in the CTFA dictionary "amodiméthicone" and which correspond to the formula: wherein X 'and Y' are integers that depend on the molecular weight, generally such that the indicated molecular weight in number is between approximately 5,000 and 500,000; (b) siliconized cationic polymers that respond to the formula: R'aG3-a-YES (0SYG2) n ~ (OSÍGbR '2-b) m-0-SÍG3-a-R' a (III) wherein: G is a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl group, OH, or Ci-Cß alkyl, for example methyl; a designates the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, b designates 0 or 1, and in particular 1, m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n + m) can vary particularly from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and particularly from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and particularly from 1 to 10; R 'is a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number of 2 to 8 L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from the groups: -NR "-CH2-CH2-N '(R") 2 -N (R ") 2 -NF (R") 3 A "-N® (R") 2 HA "-NFH2 (R") A ~ - N (R ") -CH2-CH2-N®R" H2A ", wherein R "can designate hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical, for example an alkyl radical having 1 to 20 carbon atoms and A" represents a halogenide ion such as for example fluoride, chloride, bromide o- iodide. A product corresponding to this definition is the polymer called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone", which corresponds to the formula: (CH,),, (XV) in which n and m have the meanings given above (see formula III). Such polymers are described, for example, in the patent application EP-A-95238. (c) siliconized cationic polymers that respond to the formula: wherein R7 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical of Ci-Ciß, or alkenyl of C2-C? ßf for example methyl; Rβ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical of Ci-Ciß or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical of Ci-Ciß, for example Ci-Cß; Q "is a halide ion, particularly chloride; r represents an average statistical value of 2 to 20 and in particular of 2 to 8; s represents an average statistical value of 20 to 200 and in particular of 20 to 50. Such polymers are described more particularly in US Pat. No. 4,185,087 A polymer that falls into this class is the polymer sold by the Union Carbide Company under the name "Ucar Silicone ALE 563.

When these silicone polymers are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their joint use with cationic and / or nonionic surface agents. For example, the product sold under the name "Cationic Emulsion DC 929" can be used by the Dow Corning Company, which comprises, in addition to the amodimethicone, a cationic surface agent comprising a mixture of products that meet the formula: wherein Rg designates alkenyl and / or alkyl radicals having from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, derived from the fatty acids of tallow, in association with a nonionic surface agent of the formula: C9H19-C6H4- (OC2H4) 10-OH known under the name "Nonoxynol 10".

It is also possible, for example, to use the product sold under the name "Cationic Emulsion DC 939" by the Dow Corning Company which comprises, in addition to the amodi ethicone, a cationic surface agent trimethyl cetyl ammonium chloride in combination with a surface agent non-ionic trideceth-12. Another commercial product which can be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name "Dow Corning Q2 7224" by the Dow Corning Company which includes, in association, the trimethylsilylamodimethicone of the formula (IV), a nonionic surface agent of the formula: C8H17-C6H4- (OCH2CH2) n-OH where n = 40 also called octoxynol-40, another non-ionic surface agent of the formula: C12H25- (OCH2-CH2) n-OH where n = 6 also called isolaureth-6, and glycol. The hair compositions according to the invention include the amine silicones defined above with weight contents which may be between 0.05% and 10%, preferably between 0.1% and 5% and even more preferably between 0.2% and 3%, in relation to the total weight of the composition. (2) - Insoluble silicone (s) with viscosity less than or equal to 100,000 cSt. (100 Pa.s): The viscosity of these insoluble silicones is preferably between 1000 and 100,000 and more particularly between 20,000 and 80,000 cSt (between 20 and 80 Pa.s). The viscosity of these silicones was measured at 25 ° C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C. According to the present invention, insoluble is insoluble in the final composition. In all that follows or above, is meant by silicone, in accordance with the general meaning, all organosilicon polymers or oligomers of linear or cyclic, branched or cross-linked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and constituted essentially by a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are bonded together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond = -0-Si =), with hydrocarbon radicals being optionally substituted directly attached by means of a carbon atom on the indicated silicon atoms. The most common hydrocarbon radicals are alkyl radicals, in particular C1-C10 radicals and in particular methyl, fluoroalkyl radicals, aryl radicals and in particular phenyl. According to the invention, the silicone of suitable viscosity is more particularly chosen from: (i) polydialkylsiloxanes; (ii) polydiarylsiloxanes; (iii) polyalkylarylsiloxanes; Among the polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made in particular of the linear polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups, such as, for example, and without limitation, the SILBIONE oils of the series 70047 marketed by RHONE POULENC, the linear polydimethylsiloxanes with hydroxydimethylsilyl end groups such as the oils of the 48 V series by RHONE POULENC. In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the polyalkylsiloxanes sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names ABILWAX 9800 and ABIL AX 9801 which are polyalkyl (C 1 -C 20) siloxanes. Among the polyalkylaryl siloxanes, mention may be made of polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes or polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes, linear or branched such as the product DC 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID from DOW CORNING. According to the invention, silicone with a viscosity lower than 100 000 cSt does not include amine or ammonium function. The hair compositions according to the invention include the silicones of suitable viscosity defined above with weight contents which may be comprised between 0.05% and 10%, preferably between 0.1% and 5% and even more preferably between 0.2% and 3%, in relation to the total weight of the composition. The vehicle, or carrier, of the detergent compositions according to the invention is preferably water or a hydroalcoholic solution of a lower alcohol such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol. The detergent compositions according to the invention have a final pH generally comprised between 3 and 10. Preferably, this pH is comprised between 5 and 8. The adjustment of the pH to the desired value can be carried out conventionally by supplying a base (organic or mineral) to the composition, for example ammonia or a primary, secondary or tertiary (poly) amine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3-propanediamine, or also by supplying an acid, preferably a carboxylic acid such as, for example, citric acid. The detergent compositions according to the invention can of course also contain all the usual adjuvants found in the field of shampoos, such as for example perfumes, preservatives, sequestering agents, thickeners, softeners, foam modifiers, dyes, pearlizing agents, moisturizing agents, agents antipeliculares or anti-seborreicos, vitamins, solar filters, agents of putting in suspension and others. Of course, the person skilled in the art will try to take care of the choice of this or these possible complementary compounds and / or their amounts in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically related to the quaternary association (washing base + cationic polymer + two specific silicones) conform to the invention are not, or substantially, altered by the addition (s) considered. These compositions may be in the form of more or less thick liquids, creams or gels and they are mainly suitable for washing, for the treatment and / or styling of the hair. They can also be presented in the form of lotions to clarify. When the compositions according to the invention are used as classic shampoos, they are simply applied to wet hair and the foam generated by massage or friction with the hands is then removed, after a possible rest period, by rinsing with water, the operation can be repeated once or several times. The subject of the invention is also a process for washing and conditioning keratin fibers such as hair which consists in applying an effective amount of a composition as defined above to the aforementioned wet fibers, then in rinsing with water afterwards. of the eventual rest time. As indicated above, the compositions according to the invention confer to the hair, after rinsing, a remarkable combing effect which is manifested particularly by ease of combing and maintenance, as well as a contribution of volume and lightness, clearly improved.

A concrete, but by no means limiting, example illustrating the invention is given below.

EXAMPLE Three shampoo compositions were made, one according to the invention (composition A) and the other two comparatives (compositions B and C): (*) cocoamidoethyl (N-hydroxyethyl, N-cravoxymethyl) sodium glycinate, sold by RHONE POULENC (**) guar gum modified by 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride sold under the name of JAGUAR C13 S by the company RHONE POULENC (***) Amodimethicone sold in cationic emulsion with 35% active ingredient under the name FLUID DC 939 by the company Dow Corning (*** +) Polydimethylsiloxane with viscosity 60000 cSt sold by the company Dow Corning under the name FLUID DC 200-60000 cSt. (*****) Polydimethylsiloxane with a viscosity of 300,000 cSt sold by WACKER under the name AK 300 000. Shampooing was carried out by applying approximately 12g of the composition A to previously wetted hair. The froth was frothed and then rinsed liberally with water. The procedure was carried out in the same way as before with the comparative compositions B and C. A group of experts evaluated the disentangling of wet hair, the disentangling of dry hair, the ease of shaping, the softness and the smoothness of dry hair. .

All the experts indicate a clear improvement of these properties for the hair treated with composition A according to the invention. It is noted that in relation to this date, the best method known by the applicant to carry out the present invention is that which is clear from the present description of the invention. Having described the invention as above, the content of the following is claimed as property:

Claims (24)

1. Detergent and conditioning hair compositions, characterized in that they comprise, between a cosmetically acceptable medium, (A) a washing base and (B) a conditioning system comprising at least one cationic polymer and a mixture of at least one aminated silicone and by at least one insoluble silicone with a viscosity less than or equal to 100 Pa.s (100 000 cSt), different from the aminic silicon indicated.

2. Compositions according to claim 1, characterized in that the said washing base comprises one or more surfactants selected from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, cationic surfactants and their mixtures.

3. Compositions according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the said washing base is present in a weight content comprised between 4% and 50% with respect to the total weight of the composition.

4. Compositions according to claim 3, characterized in that said content is comprised between 10% and 35%.

5. Compositions according to claim 4, characterized in that said content is comprised between 12% and 25%.

6. Compositions according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that said cationic polymer is present in a weight content comprised between 0.001% and 10% relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Compositions according to claim 6, characterized in that said content is comprised between 0, 005% and 5%.

8. Compositions according to claim 7, characterized in that said content is comprised between 0.01% and 3%.

9. Compositions according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said insoluble silicone with viscosity less than or equal to 100 Pa.s is present in a weight content comprised between 0.05% and 10% in relation to to the total weight of the composition.

10. Compositions according to claim 9, characterized in that said content is comprised between 0, 1% and 5%.

11. Compositions according to claim 10, characterized in that said content is between 0.2% and 3%.

12. Compositions according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that said aminated silicone is present in a weight content comprised between 0.05% and 10% with respect to the total weight of the composition.

13. Compositions in accordance with reiv. 12, characterized by the fact that the indicated content is between 0.1% and 5% relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Compositions according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said cationic polymer is chosen from the quaternary cellulose ether derivatives, the cyclopolymers, the cationic polysaccharides and their mixtures.

15. Compositions according to claim 14, characterized in that said cyclopolymer is chosen from the copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylamide.

16. Compositions according to claim 14, characterized in that the said quaternary cellulose ether derivatives are chosen from the hydroxyethyl celluloses that have reacted with an epoxide substituted by a triethylammonium group.

17. Compositions according to claim 14, characterized in that said cationic polysaccharides are chosen from guar gums modified by a salt of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium.

18. Compositions according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said insoluble silicone with viscosity less than or equal to 100 Pa.s has a viscosity comprised between 20 and 100 Pa.s (between 20,000 and 100,000 cSt).

19. Compositions according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone with viscosity less than or equal to 100 000 cSt (100 Pa.s) is chosen from (i) the polydialkylsiloxanes, (ii) the polydiarylsiloxanes and (iii) ) polyalkylarylsiloxanes.

20. Compositions according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aminated silicone is chosen from: (a) the polysiloxanes referred to in the CTFA dictionary "amodiméthicone" and corresponding to the formula: in which x 'e and' are integers that depend on the molecular weight, generally such that the indicated molecular weight in number is between 5000 and 500000; (b) siliconized cationic polymers that respond to the formula: R'aG3-a ~ Si (OSiG2) n ~ (OSiGfaR '2-b) m-0-SiG3-a-R' a (III) wherein: G is a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH, or Ci-Cß alkyl group, for example methyl, a designates number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, b designates 0 or 1, and in particular 1, m and m are numbers such that the sum of (n + m) can vary particularly from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, and n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and particularly from 49 to 149 and m may designate a number from 1 to 2000, and particularly from 1 to 10; R 'is a monovalent radical of the formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number of 2 to 8 L is an optionally quaternized aminated group selected from among the groups: -NR "-CH2-CH2-N '(R") 2 -N (R ") 2 -NT (R") 3 A "-N? H (R") 2 A "-NTH2 (R") A " - (R ") -CH2-CH2-NTR" H2A ", in which R "can designate hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example an alkyl radical having 1 to 20 carbon atoms and A" represents a halogenide ion such as for example fluoride, chloride, bromide, or iodide. (c) siliconized cationic polymers that respond to the formula: wherein R7 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkylo radical of Ci-Cis or C2-C18 alkenyl, for example methyl; R8 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical of C1-C3.8 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical of Ci-Ciß, for example Ci-Ca; Q "is a halogenide ion, particularly chloride; r represents an average statistical value of 2 to 20 and in particular of 2 to 8; s represents an average statistical value of 20 to 200 and in particular of 20 to 50.

21. Compositions according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that they represent a pH comprised between 3 and 10.

22. Compositions according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that said conditioning system is free of silicones other than aminated silicones and insoluble silicones with a viscosity less than or equal to 100 000 cSt (100 Pa.s).

23. Use of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims, for cleaning and / or conditioning of the hair.

24. Method of washing and conditioning keratin fibers such as hair, characterized in that it consists in applying an effective amount of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 22 on the said wet fibers, then in a rinsing with water after an eventual rest period.