US570835A

US570835A - Sleeve-chart

Info

Publication number: US570835A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1896-11-03
Anticipated expiration: 1913-11-03

Description

' 2 She'ets--Sheet 1. W. BAASEL.

(No Model.)

, SLEEVE GHART.

Patented Nov. 3, 18-96.

mZZv'amBam/s Wiigdsses THE uunms warns on. Pumoumo. WASHINGTON. o. r

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE. I.

IVILLIAM BAASEL, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

SLEEVE-CHART.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 570,835, dated November 3, 1896.

Application filed July 24, 1896- Serial No. 600,435. (No model.)

To all whom, it may concern.-

Be it known that I, IVILLIAM BAASEL, a citizen of the United States, residing at Chicago, in the county of Cook and State of Illinois, have invented a new and useful Tailors Sleeve Chart or Pattern, of which the following is a specification.

The purpose of this invention is to devise a chart or pattern for tailors to enable the correct laying off of a sleeve of any required size after a little practice, so as to secure a neat and comfortable fit to the garment when finished.

The chart is constructed with especial reference to giving a correct outline, the edges being used as guides to direct the crayon when marking the pattern on the goods to be out. The chart is particularly designed for outlining sleeves of garments of stock sizes, and the various scales are perforated to enable the points which determine the pattern to be properly located upon the goods to be cut, so that by properly joining the points the required shape and size of the sleeve are secured.

For a full understanding of the merits and advantages of the invention reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings and the following description.

Figure 1 is a face view of the improved chart or pattern. Fig. 2 is a detail view showing the operation and manner of laying off the upper portion or half of a sleeve. Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 2, showing the manner of laying off the under or lower half of the sleeve. Fig. 4 shows a sleeve of different size, comprising both halves or parts and laid off by means of the improved chart.

Corresponding and like parts are referred to in the following description and indicated in the several views of the accompanying drawings by the same reference-characters.

The chart or pattern is of tapering form, and its outline corresponds to the largestsize sleeve. The top edge 1 curves inwardly between its ends, and the bottom edge 2 curves outwardly between its ends, the two edges 1 and 2 converging toward the end E and diverging toward the end A B, and the latter edge curves outwardly, as shown at 3, from A to I, and curves inwardly, as shown at 4, from I to B. The curvature of the edge 4 corresponds to the upper portion of the arm-scye, and the edge 1 coincides with the inner seam, and the edge 2 with the outer seam. The curved edge 3 is graduated and is provided with scales G and G, which are numbered consecutively from 24 to 48, corresponding to the ordinary stock sizes of garments. These scales are graduated from their outer to their inner end, so that the numerals 48 are adjacent to each other and the numerals 24 remotely situated.

A perforate scale R extends on a straight line, connecting A and B, and determines the point where the curved edges 1 and 4E intersect, and this scale is graduated from 24 to 48 in an outward direction. A scale T is located adjacent to the scale G, and a similar scale S is arranged intermediate of the scales R and T, and the several scales G, G, T, S, and R determine the curved edge 3 4 of the required pattern. A line of perforations 5 is located adjacent to the curved edge 2 and intersects with a line of perforations K L, which is form ed on an ogee curve, and has its origin near the point B and terminating a short distance from the point A. This line of perforations K L determines the outline of the inner end of a the under half of the sleeve, and the line of perforations 5 gives the outer edge of the lower part of the sleeve.

A perforate scale V is located intermediate the scale R and the perforations K L and in conjunction with the perforations K L and the perforations of the scale R determines the proper outline to be given to the inner end of the lower half of the sleeve. Aseries of graduations U are to be used in conjunc-' tion with the perforate scale R for convenience in locating the proper point B along the scale B when laying oif the pattern.

A perforate scale P extends in a straight line and is located about centrally of the chart and corresponds with the position of the elbow of large-sized sleeves, but when laying off sleeves of small size a perforate scale Q is provided and located intermediate of the scale P and the scale V. A scale N is provided along the curved edge 2 to indicate the required length of sleeve. Aline of perforations O is provided adjacent to the curved edge 1 and corresponds to the inner edge of the lower part of the sleeve.

The various scales P, Q, V, R, S, and T are graduated consecutively from 24: to l8 toward the edge 1 and properly locate the points which determine the required outline of the particular size of sleeve to be laid off.

Suppose it be required to lay off a sleeve of the largest size, No. 48. The chart is placed upon the goods and the top edge 1 and the inner or rear edge 3 4 are traced by crayon in the ordinary way, after which the chart is rocked upon the point A as a center, so that the lower edge 2 will come the requisite distance from the edge 1 previously marked upon the goods corresponding to the width of the sleeve, and the lower edge 2 is traced, and the ends E and W are connected, thereby completing the pattern for the upper half of the sleeve. The lower half of the sleeve is outlined by placing the chart upon the goods and marking dots through the line of openings O and K L, the openings 0 being subsequentlyjoined, forming the inner or top edge of the required pattern. The chart is now rocked upon the point A as a fulcrum, and dots are formed upon the goods through the line of perforations 5, and the lower outer edge is traced with crayon, and after the chart is removed the dots marked through the openings 5 are connected, thereby completing the lower or outer edge of the lower half of the sleeve-pattern. For smaller sleeves the points are properly located by recourse to the various scales in the manner set forth and as indicated in Fig. 4. The

space D E F is divided by parallel lines for measuring the width and length of the hand.

Having thus described the inventi0n,what is claimed as new is An article of manufacture, a tailors chart for laying ofi the upper and lower parts of sleeves of stock sizes, of tapering form, having one edge inwardly curved throughout its length, the opposite edge outwardly curved between its ends, and the edge of the larger end curved outwardly and inwardly, and having a line of perforations adjacent to the inwardly-curved edge and a line of perforations contiguous to the outwardly-curved edge, and having the two lines of perforations connected at one end by a line of perforations formed on an ogee curve, and having a series of perforate graduated scales intermediate the ogee line of perforations and the wide end of the chart, and having perforate scales intermediate of the ogee line of perforations'and the smaller end of the chart, the wide end and the outwardly-curved edge of the chart for a short distance from the smaller end and the various scales being similarly graduated, substantially as shown for the purpose described.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing as my own I have hereto affixed my signature in the presence of two witnesses.

XVILLIAM BAASEL. lVitnesses:

R031. A. GRUBBS, M. HERSOHMAN.