US3882697A - Knitting of garments - Google Patents

Knitting of garments Download PDF

Info

Publication number
US3882697A
US3882697A US312710A US31271072A US3882697A US 3882697 A US3882697 A US 3882697A US 312710 A US312710 A US 312710A US 31271072 A US31271072 A US 31271072A US 3882697 A US3882697 A US 3882697A
Authority
US
United States
Prior art keywords
fabric
sleeve
garment
knitting
neck
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
US312710A
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Max William Betts
Frank Robinson
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Family has litigation
First worldwide family litigation filed litigation Critical https://patents.darts-ip.com/?family=10053636&utm_source=google_patent&utm_medium=platform_link&utm_campaign=public_patent_search&patent=US3882697(A) "Global patent litigation dataset” by Darts-ip is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
Priority claimed from GB5676571A external-priority patent/GB1407212A/en
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Priority to US312710A priority Critical patent/US3882697A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of US3882697A publication Critical patent/US3882697A/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

Links

Images

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00—Garments
    • A41D1/04—Vests, jerseys, sweaters or the like
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B15/00—Details of, or auxiliary devices incorporated in, weft knitting machines, restricted to machines of this kind
    • D04B15/38—Devices for supplying, feeding, or guiding threads to needles
    • D04B15/54—Thread guides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B15/00—Details of, or auxiliary devices incorporated in, weft knitting machines, restricted to machines of this kind
    • D04B15/38—Devices for supplying, feeding, or guiding threads to needles
    • D04B15/54—Thread guides
    • D04B15/56—Thread guides for flat-bed knitting machines
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/03—Shape features
    • D10B2403/032—Flat fabric of variable width, e.g. including one or more fashioned panels
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/03—Shape features
    • D10B2403/033—Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/0333—Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process with tubular portions of variable diameter or distinct axial orientation

Definitions

  • ABSTRACT A method of knitting a blank for making up into a garment wherein a body in the form of non-tubular flat fabric and sleeves formed integrally with one another and are joined together during knitting by progressively taking needles out of action whilst still holding knitted loops located along sleeve-body join lines and progressively reintroducing those needles so that the iii3T:JJ::3:JJJ:J:3::JJJJJJjJiiJjJJJJJJJJJJJJ.fiillfifilfii gi e he eh eh ehehe he he hehy hh hhe hhhhee Field of Search 66/174, 175, 176, 189 22 Claims 19 Drawing Figures W- m 22d 6 24a 24b 22C 244 32a 32b 32c 324 26a 26b 30 26c E: llllllllllIllllllllll
  • FIG. 21 SHEET 0 2 9F 13 FIG. 2a.
  • FIG. 21
  • This invention relates to knitted garments having sleeves.
  • Hitherto such garments have normally been made by one of two methods.
  • flat or tubular knitted fabric is cut into shapes which are secured together, usually by stitching, to form the garment.
  • the component pieces of a garment are knitted to shape and are then secured together to make the garment.
  • the present invention reduces the amount of making up involved in the production of a sleeved garment compared with the known methods outlined above.
  • a method of making a blank for production of a garment comprises the steps, in either order, of knitting a piece of non-tubular flat fabric to serve as a body for the garment, said piece of fabric comprising substantially all parts of the front and rear of the body, and knitting said piece of fabric so that knitted wales extend therein in the direction from the waist to the neck of the garment, forming sleeves for the garment by knitting at least one piece of non-tubular flat fabric having knitted wales extending in the longitudinal direction of the sleeves, said sleeve fabric including pieces of fabric each of which comprises substantially the whole fabric for a sleeve, knitting said body and sleeve fabrics so that they are integral with one another and during knitting taking needles out of action progressively along at least one sleeve-body join line whilst maintaining knitted loops on these needles and then progressively re-introducing the needles to knitting action whereby wales of the sleeve fabric joined to wales of the body fabric lie at an
  • piece of flat fabric is meant a sheet of fabric not in the form of a tube.
  • Such a piece of fabric can be formed by reciprocal knitting on a circular array of needles in a circular knitting machine but will not, whilst it is on the needles of the machine lie in a plane.
  • two separate pieces of sleeve fabric are knitted in making the blank, each adapted to form a complete sleeve for a garment.
  • the sleeve fabrics may be joined to the body fabric during knitting in such a way that all the sleeve-body seams required in the finished garment are formed on the knitting machine. Alternatively, some only of the sleeve-body seams required in the finished garment may be formed on the knitting machine leaving one or more of these seams to be formed after the knitting of the body and sleeve fabrics has been completed.
  • each sleeve fabric After the knitting of the integral flat body and sleeve fabrics, two edges extending longitudinally of each sleeve fabric are joined together in order to form the sleeves. If the garment is to be a sweater, two edges of the body fabric extending from the waist to underarm or neck of the body fabric are joined to form the body. If the garment is to be a lumber style, such a seam is unnecessary.
  • a method of making a blank for production of a garment comprises the steps, in either order, of machine knitting a piece of nontubular fiat fabric to serve as a body for the garment, said piece of fabric comprising substantially all parts of the front and rear of the body, and knitting said piece of fabric so that knitted wales extend therein in the direction from the waist to the neck of the garment, forming sleeves for the garment by knitting two pieces of tubular fabric on opposed needle beds of the machine, said pieces of tubular fabric having wales extending longitudinally of the sleeves, each of said pieces of tubular fabric comprising substantially the whole fabric for a sleeve, knitting said body fabric and said sleeves so that they are integral with one another by knitting a part of each sleeve and an associated part of the body so that wales are continuous between each of the said sleeve parts and its associated body part, and during knitting taking needles out of action progressively along at least one sleeve-body joint line whilst maintaining knitted loops
  • the invention includes a method of making a garment by making a blank by either of the methods described above and subsequently making up and finishing the blank to form a garment.
  • the invention further includes a blank made by either of the methods described above and a garment made by the method just referred to.
  • parts of the upper edge of the body not integrally joined to the sleeves and the parts of the shoulder regions of the sleeves not integrally joined to the body are shaped to conform to one another for linking or seaming together to make up the blank into a garment.
  • the fabric blanks of the present invention are knitted on knitting machines having take-down mechanisms, or mechanisms serving in place of take down mechanisms, which allow knitting to be carried on over a considerable number of courses on needles of the machine whilst adjacent needles holding loops of the fabric are maintained out of action.
  • take-down mechanisms or mechanisms serving in place of take down mechanisms, which allow knitting to be carried on over a considerable number of courses on needles of the machine whilst adjacent needles holding loops of the fabric are maintained out of action.
  • a machine having web holding sinkers can be used or a flat V-bed knitting machine having hold-down elements such as are described in U.S. Pat. Specification No. 3,613,401 can be used.
  • Such hold-down elements are carried on a single member which is so mounted that it can be moved to bring the two hold-down elements alternately into an operative position in which the operative element extends beneath active needles of the opposed arrays of latch needles of the knitting machine, the said member being arranged to carry the hold-down elements along the arrays of needles in synchronism with the actuation of the needles and the operative holddown element being arranged to hold-down the knitting so that opened latches move up through the loops on the needles as the needles rise during knitting and are closed by the loops as the needles descend.
  • the blanks may be formed in rib knitting or plain knitting and the plain knitting could be knitted on machines having a single array of needles or two opposed arrays of needles.
  • the machine preferably incorporates a yarn storage device for supplying yarn to the yarn carriers such as is described in U.S. Pat. application Ser. No. 92993 filed on Nov. 27th, 1970 and assigned to the same assignee as the present application which allows courses of knitting of widely different lengths to be knitted satisfactorily with the same traverse movement of the cam carriage and yarn feeders.
  • FIG. 4 illustrates the method of making up the blank of FIG. 1 to form a garment
  • FIG. .5 illustrates a further method according to the. invention of knitting a blank for a sleeved garment
  • FIG. 6 illustrates the method of making up the blank of FIG. to form a garment
  • FIGS. 7 and 8 illustrate two further different methods according to the invention of knitting blanks for sleeved garments
  • FIG. 9 is a diagram illustrating a garment blank knitted, according to a still further method according to the invention.
  • FIGS. 10A 10F are diagrams illustrating the positions of knitted loops on the needles of the opposed needle beds of a flat V-bed knitting machine at various stages during the carrying out of the method illustrated in FIG. 9,
  • FIGS. 11 and 12 are diagrams similar to that of FIG. 9 illustrating yet further methods according to the invention of knittinggarment blanks, and
  • FIG- 13 is a view of one form of yarn storage device which can be used in a flat V-bed knitting machine for carrying out the present invention.
  • each sleeve fabric is widened as/.
  • k shown in Section B of the Figure by introduction of 1x scribed are carried out on a flat V-bed knitting machine having hold-down elements as described in US. Pat. specification No. 3,613,401 and a looper arrangement for supplying yarn to the yarn carriers such as is described in the aforesaid US. Pat. application Ser. No. 92993.
  • One embodiment of that looper arrangement is described hereinafter with reference to FIG. 13.
  • the other elements of the knitting machine can be similar to those of known flat V-bed knitting machines.
  • the present machine has the capability of'using' four a single. traverseof the cam] different yarn carriers in boxes.
  • a known selection mechanism enabling needles to be selectedfor knitting or inactivity is incorporated in the machine.
  • the needles of the. machine for knitting the present blank are of a kind capable of transferring loops-carried g V V on them to needles of the opposite bed. Needles of this. i I l kind are'well known and are described, for example, in
  • the cuffs can be knitted in rib configurationother 1 j than 2 X Zrib and the main part of each sleevefabric I i can be knitted in a stitch configurationother than 1 X' Y l rib. If the main part is knitted in single jersey'fabric c it is necessary to transfer all the loops to needles of one s i i bed after knitting the cuffs by operating the needles to v 1 t ansferloops in known manner.
  • Section D of FIG. 1 is illustrated in Section D of FIG. 1 and over this section three yarn carriers are used to supply yarn for the I ,1 panels 26a, 26b and 26c of the body fabric.
  • the needles rendered l inactive progressively during knitting of the sleeve fabsleeve fabrics are rendered active once more so that symmetrical fashioning lines 32a 32d marking the reintroduction of the needles are produced on the body fabric.
  • the needles are operated to transfer loops to form a 2 X 2 rib configuration for the knitting of the waist band 35 shown in Section F of FIG. 1. A few courses of waste yarn not shown, are then knitted and the garment blank is pressed off the needles.
  • FIG. 4 The making up of the blank into a garment is illustrated in FIG. 4 where the blank is shown in broken lines in the same configuration as in FIG. 1.
  • the sleeve and body fabrics are shown flat for convenience of illustration but in fact the sleeve and body fabrics are joined to one another along the lines 24a 24d and 32a 32d and the points 23 in the sleeve fabrics are thus joined to the points 30 in the body fabric. If therefore the portion 36 of the body fabric is folded over the rear portion of the body fabric so that edge 37 lies at 38, then the joined lines 24a and 3211 will lie on top of the lines 24b and 32b and the sleeve 21 can be folded so that the edge 39 lies on top of the edge 40.
  • portion 43 of the body fabric can be folded over the rear portion of the body fabric so that the edge 44 lies along the line 45 and, in the present instance, beneath the portion 36.
  • the sleeve 22 can then be folded so that the edge 42 lies on top of the edge 41.
  • the courses of waste yarn attached to the waist band are unravelled, the bottom edge of the waist band is turned in and hemmed or is linked.
  • the edges 39 and 40 and 41 and 42 are joined to one another, for example by sewing or linking andfinally, the overlapping portions of the body front adjacent the lines 45 and 38 are provided with buttons and button holes to complete a lumber style garment.
  • Garments in different styles can be made by knitting the body fabric in different shapes.
  • FIG. 2a is illustrated one half of a blank for a garment in jacket style and in FIG. 2b is illustrated one half of a blank for a garment with a cardigan front.
  • the blanks of FIGS. 1, 2a and 2b can be knitted in the direction from waist to cuffs in which case the sleeve fabrics are shaped by narrowing operations in which loops on outermost needles are transferred to the next inward needles of the opposite bed.
  • FIG. 3 illustrates the knitting of a blank for a lumber syle garment in which the sleeve fabrics are knitted as integral parts of a larger sheet of fabric at least a part of which is subsequently cut away to leave the fabric which is subsequently formed into the sleeves.
  • the larger sheet of fabric of which the sleeve fabrics are a part is knitted so as to be bounded by the chaindotted lines 48 and 49 and the line 50 which passes through the ends of the cuffs, then the three fabric pieces 51, 52 and 53 (shown cross-latched in FIG. 3) must be cut away to leave the shaped sleeve fabrics 54 and 55.
  • This method of knitting the blank obviates any necessity to widen or narrow the sleeve fabrics during knitting between cuff and underarm.
  • the larger sheet of fabric is knitted so as to be bounded by the sleeve fabric edges 56 and 57 and the line 50, then only the fabric piece 52 has to be cut away to leave the sleeve fabrics but in this case the fabric must be widened or narrowed (depending on the direction of knitting) along the edges 56 and 57.
  • the method of knitting a blank illustrated in FIG. 5 produces a blank in which the longitudinal seams which complete the sleeves after removal of the blank from the knitting machine are located on the undersides of the sleeves and not on the upper sides of the sleeves as is the case with the blanks of FIGS. 1, 2 and 3.
  • knitting can be commenced at the cuffs 60 in 2 X 2 rib using two yarn carriers and after completion of the cuffs is continued in l X l rib with selvedge widening of the sleeve fabrics 61 and 62.
  • the sleeve fabric 61 is narrowed along the edge 64 by inward transfer of outer loops to other needles already carrying loops of the fabric.
  • the sleeve fabric 62 is similarly narrowed along the edge 65.
  • needles holding loops of the sleeve fabric 61 are progressively taken out of action from the edge 66 of this fabric thereby producing shaping of the fabric along the line 67, all the loops along this line being held on inactive needles at the moment when the knitting of the sleeve fabric 61 is completed.
  • needles holding loops of the sleeve fabric 62 are progressively taken out of action from the edge 68 of this fabric to shape the fabric along the line 69.
  • needles can be progressively taken out of action starting at the outermost stitches of each sleeve until at the course 72 all the held loops along the edges 64 and are pressed off together.
  • the body fabric is shaped along the lines 76 and 77 and the loops along these lines are joined by the knitting process to the sleeve fabric loops along the lines 67 and 69. This joining is indicated in the drawing by the vertical lines 78.
  • the sleeve-body joins along the lines 67, 77 and 69, 76 are thus fashioned join lines and extend from underarm positions to the neck in the garment.
  • the body fabric is also shaped by needle introduction to form edges 79 and 80 corresponding to edges 64 and 65, to which edges they will later be joined to form raglan style lines extending from the underarm positions to the neck in thefmished garment.
  • the finished blank comprises a unitary portion 73 constituting the front or rear of the body and having attached integrally to its opposite side edges two further body portions 90 and 92 together constituting the rear or front of the body.
  • the sleeve fabrics 61 and 62 are joined to the further body portions 92 and 90, respectively.
  • the blank is made up into a garment in the manner illustrated in FIG. 6.
  • the points 85 and 86 on the sleeve fabrics are already joined, as indicated by the lines 78, to the'underarm regions 87 and 88 of the body fabric 73.
  • the portion 90 of the body is folded so as to lie (as is shown in FIG. 6) beneath the adjacent part of the main body portion 91 and thesleeve fabric 62 is folded along the line 93 to bring the edge 65 of the sleeve fabric into juxtaposition with the edge 80 of the body fabric.
  • the portion 92 of the body is also folded so as to lie (as is shown in FIG.6) beneath the half of the body portion 91 adjacent the portion 92 and the sleeve fabric 61 is folded along the line 94 so that the edge 64 of the sleeve fabric is in juxtaposition with the edge 79 of the body fabric.
  • the body and sleeve fabrics are then joined along the edges 64, 79 and 65, 80 and the sleeves are completed by joining the edges 66, 95 and 68, 96.
  • the joining may be effected, for example, by linking or seaming.
  • the resultant garment is a raglan style lumber coat in which the body-sleeve joins at the front of the coat are knitted joins whereas those at the back of the coat are linked or seamed.
  • the coat can be made in different styles, for example, with a cardigan front or in ajacket style by shaping the body fabric in a different way.
  • FIG. 7 The knitting of a blank for a jumper is illustrated in FIG. 7.
  • Knitting is commenced at the cuffs 100 and the sleeve fabrics 101, 102 are widened and then narrowed along the edges 103, 104 whilst needles holding sleeve fabric loops are progressively taken out of action starting at points 105 and 106.
  • knitting of the body fabric using two yarn carriers is commenced and the needles holding loops along the lines 108, 109 of the sleeve fabrics are progressively brought back into action starting atthe points 110, 111 to form fashioned sleeve-body join lines extending from underarm positions to the neck in the garment.
  • the body fabric is shaped by needle introduction along the edges 119, 120. At the underarm regions 112, 113 all the needles are active again and knitting of the body fabric 114 is continued using one yarn carrier.
  • the blank is made into a jumper by folding the body portion 115 constituting for example the front of the body to lie on top of the body portion 116 constituting for example the rear of the body and folding the sleeve fabrics 101 and 102 along the lines 117 and 118 sothat g the edge 104 of sleeve fabric102 is. juxtaposed to the edge 119 of'the body fabric and the edge 103 of sleeve fabric 101 is juxtaposed to the: edge 120 of'th'e. body 1 fabric.
  • the edges 104 and 119 are joined together as are the edges 103 and 120, to form further sleeve-bodyi' joins extending from the underarm positions to the neck.
  • the free longitudinal edges of the sleeve fabrics are also joined together as are the free side edges of the I body .fabricto produce [a raglan style jumper.
  • One body-sleeve join at the front and one at the back are knitted joins and the other joins at front and back are": I completed after knitting, for example by linking orl seaming.
  • FIG. 8 A method of knitting a blank to produce a jumper in; 1 which both body-sleeve joins at the back are knitted j i and both joins at the front are completed iniano ther 7 manner is illustrated in FIG. 8. Knitting is commenced at the cuffs and fabric 127 being in the position shown in chaindotted lines in the Figure.
  • the knitting machine used incarry I i ing out the method illustrated in FIG. 8 has twolse'lcondary beds movable longitudinally of the main beds and r the sleeve fabric 127 is knitted on needles of the secon- I I dary beds.
  • Such a knitting machine is produced by EdouardDuf'l I bied et Cie. S.A. of Switzerland and is described in th eif method.
  • the, sleeve fabrics are shaped by narrowing along edges 128 a'nd129 i and needles are taken outofaction along lines 130and I 131 commencing at the points 134 and 135.
  • the knitting reaches the points 136 and 137 onlythe'loop s v along the lines 130 and 131 are still held on needles of H the machine and the secondary beds are now shogged to the position shown in to move the sleeve fabric 127 full lines in FIG. 8.
  • Knitting of the body fabric 138 is now commenced I using needles of the main and secondary beds and using I two yarn carriers.
  • the needles taken out of action along lines 130, and 131 are progressively reintroduced starting at points 136 and 137 (full line positionl to J. form fashioned sleeve-body join lines extendingfrom underarm positions to the neckin the garment.
  • the body fabric is shaped by needle introduction along the: I edges 139 and 140 and after course 141 the knitting of v the body fabric is continued using a single yarn carrier.
  • the portion 144 v I constituting for example thefront ofthe body is folded; I to lie on top of the portion 145 constitutingfor example I the rear of the body and the sleeve fabricsarefolded along lines 146 and 147 so that sleeve fabric edges 128 V and 129 are juxtaposed with body edges 140 and 139,; respectively. These edges are then joined as the free edges of the sleeve fabrics and the juxtaposed *free edges of the body fabric to complete a raglan'istyle ⁇ If jumper, the further joins extending from the underarm positions to the neck.
  • the sl'eeve sleeve fabric 127 is again knitted contemporaneously with the sleeve fabric 126 in the position shown in chain dotted lines and, if the sleeve fabric is a rib fabric, when the stage is reached at which the loops along the line 131 of the sleeve fabric 127 are held on the needles, the loops of this sleeve fabric are transferred to needles of one bed and the loops along the line 130 of the sleeve fabric 126 are transferred to needles of the other bed.
  • One bed is then shogged relative to the other bed of the machine in known manner, for example using a lead screw, until the sleeve fabric 127 is in the position shown in full lines in FIG. 8 and knitting is then continued in single jersey or rib as described above.
  • FIGS. 9 and A 10F The method illustrated in FIGS. 9 and A 10F is carried out on a flat V-bed knitting machine having opposed needle beds 307 and 308 containing needles 306.
  • knitting of a piece of flat fabric to constitute the body portion 31 1 is started on empty needles of the needle bed 307 (FIG. 10A).
  • Starting up to knit on empty needles is facilitated by use of the hold-down elements referred to above and a few courses of waste yarn are first knitted followed by one of the unrovable set ups described in U.S. Pat. application Ser. No 197288 filed on Dec. 8th 1971 and assigned to the same Assignee as the present application.
  • Knitting of the body is then continued using a known mock rib structure incorporating an elastomeric yarn until a waist band has been formed. Knitting of the major area of the body portion is then continued in a plain-knit structure, as illustrated in FIG. 10A, until the course 312 is reached (FIG. 9). Additional yarn carriers are then introduced to allow the knitting of pieces of fabric 313, 314 and 315 using a separate yarn carrier or carriers for each piece of fabric.
  • needles are progressively taken out of action in opposite directions from each of the points 316 and 317 so that the fabric pieces 313, 314 and 315 are shaped along edges 318 321.
  • the edges 318 and 321 lie along the peripheries of parts of the body subsequently to be joined integrally with the sleeves in the knitting operation.
  • the loops on the needles made inactive may be cast off as each needle is taken out of action or the loops may be held on the inactive needles until the course 324 is reached when the inactive needles are brought back into action to cast off their loops together. Holding up loops for a collective cast off is indicated in FIG. 9 by the vertical lines 325 which are intended to show that the loops along the lines 319 and 320 are held on the needles until the course 324 is reached.
  • FIG. 10B illustrates the situation at the course 326 where some needles 27 have been made inactive during knitting the fabric pieces 13, 14 and 15.
  • knitted loops held on active needles are shown as circles whereas knitted loops held on needles which are not taking part in the knitting action at the stage of knitting illustrated are shown as squares. Where loops are shown as circles of dots, this indicates that the loops have just been cast off the needles.
  • FIGS. 10A 10F are purely diagrammatic and in particular, to simplify these Figures, the number of knitted loops shown has been greatly reduced compared with the number of loops in an actual garment.
  • FIG. 10C illustrates the situation at the course 324 where knitting of the fabric pieces 313, 314 and 315 has been completed.
  • the body portion of the garment, including the fabric pieces 313, 314 and 315 can be knitted as rib fabric on needles of both beds 307 and 308.
  • loops carried on the needles of the bed 308 are transferred to empty needles of the bed 307.
  • an empty needle may be left in the bed 307 between each pair of loop-holding needles of the bed. That is half-gauging may be adopted for knitting the rib fabric.
  • the loops on needles of the bed 308 are then transferred to empty needles of the bed 307.
  • the arrangement of loops is then as shown in FIG. 10C and further knitting can follow in the manner described below.
  • the needles are operated to cast off the held loops of the fabric piece 314 as well as the central loops 329 of this piece of fabric held on needles active up to the course 324.
  • the loops 330 and 331 held on active needles are also cast off. These loops are at the ends of wales in the parts of the body portion 31 1, located near the free side edges thereof, such side parts extending inwards to the points 332 and 333 (FIG. 9).
  • FIG. 10D The situation at this stage of the knitting is illustrated in FIG. 10D where the square loops 336 are held on inactive needles 336 and the loops 339 shown by dotted lines have been cast off the needles.
  • the two groups of loops 336 contain loops located along the edges 318 and 321 of the body portion and along these edges the sleeves are integrally joined to the body portion in the next stage of knitting.
  • the sleeves 334 are knitted on needles 338 of the bed 308 and the needles 336 of the bed 307.
  • the needles 338 are equal in number to the needles 336 and are located opposite those needles.
  • reciprocatory knitting of U-shaped courses on the two groups of needles containing needles 336 and 338 is commenced to knit the shoulder regions 340 of the sleeves, such regions including parts which are integrally joined with the body portion of the blank and which have wales which are continuous with wales in the body portion.
  • each U-shaped course is located outwards of the inner end of the course on the needle beds.
  • the U-shaped courses are initially short, the first course comprising only two needles, and the courses are progressively lengthened so that successively more of the needles 336 and 338 are brought into action until finally all the needles 336' and 338 are knitting.
  • FIG. 10E some only of the needles 336' and 338 have been brought into action, the other needles 336' and 338 being inactive at this stage.
  • the sleeve-body joins have been completed at the front, or back, of the garment and knitting is continued in tubular form on the two groups of needles 336' and 338, as illustrated in FIG.
  • the sleeves are knitted so that the wales extend longitudinally of them and they are narrowed during knitting by stitch transfer in a conventional manner.
  • Each sleeve is finished by a cuff 335 of mock rib fabric in a conventional structure.
  • the waste yarn attached at the waist and to the sleeves and any waste yarn attached to the cuffs is pulled away.
  • the body portion is then folded so that the fabric pieces 313 and 315 lie over the central portion 314 of the body portion and the sleeves are seamed or linked along their edges 341 and 342 to the edges 319 and 320 of the body, respectively.
  • the edges 343 and 344 of the body portion are provided with fasteners such as buttons and buttonholes or a zip. Alternatively, they may be seamed or linked together to produce a jumper.
  • the blank can also be knitted in the direction from cuffs to waist.
  • the sleeves are widened by needle introduction in conventional, manner and needles holding loops are taken out of action progressively to shape the shoulder portions of the sleeves for the sleeve-body joins.
  • the needles 336' are then held inactive whilst the loops on the needles 338 of the bed 308 are pressed off.
  • knitting of the body portion is carried out in the direction from the shoulder regions to the waist. Needles at each side and in the centre of the body portionare brought into action immediately but the remaining needles are brought into action progressively to shape the body portion along the edges 318 321.
  • the wales extending into the body portion from the edges .318 and 321 are knitted integrally with the wales extending into the sleeves from the edges 340 and341.
  • the body portion can be knitted in rib fabric if desired.
  • the garment blank illustrated in FIG. 11 is knitted in a generally similar way to that illustrated in FIG. 9, and the same reference numerals are used in FIGS. 9 and 11 for corresponding parts of the garment blanks.
  • the integral sleeve-body joins are made along the edges 319 and 320 of the body instead of along the edges 318 and 321 as in FIG. 9.
  • the U-shaped courses of the shoulder regions 340 of the sleeves are knitted with their closed ends inwards of the open ends on the needle beds.
  • Knitting can be from waist to cuffs or cuffs to waist and needles are progressively taken out of action and reintroduced along the sleevebody join lines in order to bring about a desired angular disposition of sleeve and body wales.
  • the blank produced by the method of FIG. 11, can serve, like the blank of FIG. 9, for the production of a lumber garment or a jacket or, if the two free edges 343 and 344 of the body portion 311 are seamed together, for the production of a jumper.
  • the garment blank illustrated in FIG. 12, which can serve only for the production of a jumper is, in general knitted by a method similar to the method described with reference to FIG. 9 and again the same reference numerals are used for corresponding parts of the lgar- I I ment blanks.
  • the direction of knitting can be from cuffs to waist or from waist to cuffs.
  • the sleeve-body joins along lines 345,346 and'347, 348 are produced by progressive removal from action of needles holding loops and progressive reintroduction; of these needles.
  • the sleeves 334 are both joined to the same part 349 of the body portion 31 1 which may co nstitute either the front or the back. of the finished garment. Only two pieces of fabric 349 and 350 are knit ted as the upper sectionof thebody portion 311.
  • the free edges 351 and 352 of the body portion are seamed or'link'ed v I together and the free shoulder edges of the sleeves are '7 seamed or linked to the edges 353 and 354 of the body.
  • the 'edges353; and 354 are caused to lie at an angle to the body wales by progressive casting off of loops during knitting'or by progressively taking needles holding loops out of action. If the latter procedure is followed, the held loops are cast off together when knitting of the body portion, 1 A
  • the shaping of the body portion along the. edges 353 and 354 is 'produced by progressive introduction of needles
  • the yarn storage or looper arrangement shown int. FIG. 13 is advantageously fitted to a flat V-bed knitting machine used for carrying out the present invention.
  • support members 277, 278 are disposed parallel to and spacedfrorn 1 the carrier rail 272, the support members beingfix'ed w 'j relative to the frame of the knitting machineyA block 279 is slidably mountedon the two rods 275, 276, the
  • a thirdrod 282 is a sliding fit in a third bore 283 in, the block 279, the axis of the bore. 283 being parallel A to the axes of the bores 280, 281. At its end remote from the block 279, the rod 282 enters a bore 284 in a block 285 secured to the carrier 271 by screws 286;
  • a fourth bore 288 in the block 279 has its axjis'disposed in a plane perpendicular to the axes of the bores 280 and 283 but is in communication, with ;the bores 280 and 283.
  • a locking means in the form of a ball 289 is housed in the bore 288, this ball having. aldiameter i slightly smaller than. the bore 288 and slightly larger than the width of the gap 290 between the confronting surfaces of the rods 275 and 282.,The ball 289 rests on.
  • the rod 275 and projects slightly into the bore 283 where it is received in a recess 291 formed in the. rod 282 at the end of the, latter remote from the carrier 'i 271.
  • the ball serves as a releasable locking means for j locking the block 279 either to the rod 282 or the rod the direction
  • the rod 275 has a recess 292 formed therein which I is disposed close to the stop 274 by suitably'adjusting the axial position of the. rod 275 relative to the support

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
  • Undergarments, Swaddling Clothes, Handkerchiefs Or Underwear Materials (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Corsets Or Brassieres (AREA)
US312710A 1970-03-31 1972-12-06 Knitting of garments Expired - Lifetime US3882697A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US312710A US3882697A (en) 1970-03-31 1972-12-06 Knitting of garments

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB1513370A GB1328701A (en) 1970-03-31 1970-03-31 Knitting of garments
US12652171A 1971-03-22 1971-03-22
GB5676571A GB1407212A (en) 1971-12-07 1971-12-07 Knitting method
US312710A US3882697A (en) 1970-03-31 1972-12-06 Knitting of garments

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
US3882697A true US3882697A (en) 1975-05-13

Family

ID=10053636

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
US312710A Expired - Lifetime US3882697A (en) 1970-03-31 1972-12-06 Knitting of garments

Country Status (18)

Country Link
US (1) US3882697A (xx)
JP (2) JPS5723021B1 (xx)
AT (1) AT332513B (xx)
AU (1) AU2679471A (xx)
BE (1) BE764939A (xx)
BR (1) BR7101924D0 (xx)
CA (1) CA930185A (xx)
CH (1) CH538001A (xx)
CS (1) CS156493B2 (xx)
DE (1) DE2114558C3 (xx)
ES (1) ES389769A1 (xx)
FR (1) FR2099060A5 (xx)
GB (1) GB1328701A (xx)
HK (1) HK19677A (xx)
IE (1) IE35020B1 (xx)
LU (1) LU62903A1 (xx)
NL (1) NL7104226A (xx)
ZA (1) ZA711713B (xx)

Cited By (16)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE2716150A1 (de) * 1976-04-14 1977-10-27 Courtaulds Ltd Verfahren zum stricken eines rohteils fuer ein mit aermeln versehenes kleidungsstueck und rohteil fuer ein mit aermeln versehenes kleidungsstueck
DE2715439A1 (de) * 1976-04-14 1977-10-27 Courtaulds Ltd Verfahren zum stricken eines rohteils fuer ein mit aermeln versehenes kleidungsstueck und rohteil fuer ein mit aermeln versehenes kleidungsstueck
US4094171A (en) * 1976-08-24 1978-06-13 Courtaulds Limited Method of knitting a sweater blank
US4107955A (en) * 1977-04-13 1978-08-22 Courtaulds Limited Method of knitting blank for a sleeved garment and product thereof
US4300365A (en) * 1978-11-20 1981-11-17 Courtaulds Limited Knitting method
DE3315400A1 (de) * 1983-04-28 1984-10-31 Schiesser Ag, 7760 Radolfzell Bekleidungsstueck mit aermeln und verfahren zu seiner herstellung
US5214941A (en) * 1990-08-31 1993-06-01 H. Stoll Gmbh & Co. Process for producing a fully fashioned flat fabric for a garment equipped with sleeves
US5709107A (en) * 1994-11-10 1998-01-20 General Motors Corporation Knitting method
US5826445A (en) * 1996-02-09 1998-10-27 Shima Seiki Manufacturing Ltd. Knitting method on a flat knitting machine and a knit fabric thus produced
US6286340B1 (en) * 1998-08-28 2001-09-11 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. Knitting method for knit clothing
US6301717B1 (en) * 1998-04-14 2001-10-16 Toray Industries, Inc. Clothes
US6564588B1 (en) * 1999-05-28 2003-05-20 H. Stoll Gmbh & Co. Method for producing tubular knitted articles on a flat knitting machine
US6658900B2 (en) * 2000-05-17 2003-12-09 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. Method of joining knitted fabrics and joined knitted fabric
CN100544621C (zh) * 2005-05-17 2009-09-30 平井贵美男 无缝制针织衣服
US20150284885A1 (en) * 2014-04-03 2015-10-08 Nike, Inc. Method of Forming a Unitary Knit Article Using Flat-Knit Construction
US11162198B2 (en) * 2019-09-23 2021-11-02 Jiangnan University Method of whole garment knitting in horizontal direction along the back center

Families Citing this family (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1407212A (en) * 1971-12-07 1975-09-24 Courtaulds Ltd Knitting method
JPH02229248A (ja) * 1989-03-03 1990-09-12 Shima Seiki Seisakusho:Kk 筒状編地の編成方法
JP2860437B2 (ja) * 1991-08-19 1999-02-24 株式会社島精機製作所 袖と身頃のパターン作成方法
AT408458B (de) * 2000-04-06 2001-12-27 Wolford Ag Oberbekleidungsstück
CN112609307B (zh) * 2020-12-12 2022-06-17 嘉兴市蒂维时装有限公司 一种改善全成型伞型服装下摆形状的编织方法

Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CH452770A (de) * 1965-07-21 1968-03-15 Vyzk Ustav Pletarsky Mehrteiliges Strickwarenerzeugnis

Family Cites Families (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1183574A (en) * 1966-06-07 1970-03-11 Courtaulds Ltd Knitting Method

Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CH452770A (de) * 1965-07-21 1968-03-15 Vyzk Ustav Pletarsky Mehrteiliges Strickwarenerzeugnis

Cited By (19)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE2716150A1 (de) * 1976-04-14 1977-10-27 Courtaulds Ltd Verfahren zum stricken eines rohteils fuer ein mit aermeln versehenes kleidungsstueck und rohteil fuer ein mit aermeln versehenes kleidungsstueck
DE2715439A1 (de) * 1976-04-14 1977-10-27 Courtaulds Ltd Verfahren zum stricken eines rohteils fuer ein mit aermeln versehenes kleidungsstueck und rohteil fuer ein mit aermeln versehenes kleidungsstueck
US4102155A (en) * 1976-04-14 1978-07-25 Courtaulds Limited Knitting method
US4094171A (en) * 1976-08-24 1978-06-13 Courtaulds Limited Method of knitting a sweater blank
US4107955A (en) * 1977-04-13 1978-08-22 Courtaulds Limited Method of knitting blank for a sleeved garment and product thereof
US4300365A (en) * 1978-11-20 1981-11-17 Courtaulds Limited Knitting method
DE3315400A1 (de) * 1983-04-28 1984-10-31 Schiesser Ag, 7760 Radolfzell Bekleidungsstueck mit aermeln und verfahren zu seiner herstellung
US5214941A (en) * 1990-08-31 1993-06-01 H. Stoll Gmbh & Co. Process for producing a fully fashioned flat fabric for a garment equipped with sleeves
US5709107A (en) * 1994-11-10 1998-01-20 General Motors Corporation Knitting method
US5826445A (en) * 1996-02-09 1998-10-27 Shima Seiki Manufacturing Ltd. Knitting method on a flat knitting machine and a knit fabric thus produced
US6301717B1 (en) * 1998-04-14 2001-10-16 Toray Industries, Inc. Clothes
US6286340B1 (en) * 1998-08-28 2001-09-11 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. Knitting method for knit clothing
US6564588B1 (en) * 1999-05-28 2003-05-20 H. Stoll Gmbh & Co. Method for producing tubular knitted articles on a flat knitting machine
US6658900B2 (en) * 2000-05-17 2003-12-09 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. Method of joining knitted fabrics and joined knitted fabric
CN100544621C (zh) * 2005-05-17 2009-09-30 平井贵美男 无缝制针织衣服
US20150284885A1 (en) * 2014-04-03 2015-10-08 Nike, Inc. Method of Forming a Unitary Knit Article Using Flat-Knit Construction
US10100445B2 (en) * 2014-04-03 2018-10-16 Nike, Inc. Method of forming a unitary knit article using flat-knit construction
US10480109B2 (en) 2014-04-03 2019-11-19 Nike, Inc. Method of forming a unitary knit article using flat-knit construction
US11162198B2 (en) * 2019-09-23 2021-11-02 Jiangnan University Method of whole garment knitting in horizontal direction along the back center

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JPS5753455B2 (xx) 1982-11-12
CS156493B2 (xx) 1974-07-24
NL7104226A (xx) 1971-10-04
ATA245271A (de) 1976-01-15
DE2114558A1 (de) 1971-11-04
FR2099060A5 (xx) 1972-03-10
JPS5723021B1 (xx) 1982-05-17
CH538001A (de) 1973-06-15
BR7101924D0 (pt) 1973-04-10
AU2679471A (en) 1972-09-28
DE2114558B2 (de) 1979-07-26
GB1328701A (en) 1973-08-30
BE764939A (fr) 1971-08-16
ES389769A1 (es) 1973-06-01
AT332513B (de) 1976-10-11
ZA711713B (en) 1971-12-29
DE2114558C3 (de) 1980-03-27
LU62903A1 (xx) 1971-08-24
HK19677A (en) 1977-05-06
JPS57106747A (en) 1982-07-02
IE35020B1 (en) 1975-10-15
CA930185A (en) 1973-07-17

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
US3882697A (en) Knitting of garments
US3695063A (en) Knitting method and knitted garment
US3474643A (en) Knitting process
US3636733A (en) Knitting method
KR100706657B1 (ko) 편성포 편성방법
US4197724A (en) Knitting method
US5916272A (en) Process for producing sleeved clothing articles on a two bed flat knitting machine
US3635051A (en) Knitting method
JPH04214448A (ja) ニツト製品に於ける衿首用編地の編成方法
KR20040045025A (ko) 곁바대의 형성방법 및 곁바대가 형성되어 이루어지는니트웨어
KR101022364B1 (ko) 라글란 소매가 있는 니트웨어의 편성방법 및 라글란소매가 있는 니트웨어
US3668901A (en) Knitting method and knitting garment
US3664156A (en) Garment and method of making it
JPH0441752A (ja) 編地の接合方法及び美しい接合部をもつ編地
US4111008A (en) Sweater blank and method of knitting same
US5487282A (en) Process for knitting tubular fabric on a flat bed knitting machine
US5214941A (en) Process for producing a fully fashioned flat fabric for a garment equipped with sleeves
US4095441A (en) Knitting method
US3824810A (en) Knitting method
US3685316A (en) Knitting process
US3813901A (en) Knitting of sleeved garments
GB1574736A (en) Method of machine knitting of a clothing blank
US3561000A (en) Knitted garment and method
US7168271B2 (en) Method of knitting knit-wear having front neck and knit-wear having front neck
US3956908A (en) Knitting method