US3821817A

US3821817A - Glove construction

Info

Publication number: US3821817A
Application number: US00196552A
Authority: US
Inventors: I Jorgensen
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1971-11-08
Filing date: 1971-11-08
Publication date: 1974-07-02
Anticipated expiration: 1991-07-02

Abstract

A construction and pattern for fingered gloves, particularly dress gloves, especially designed for use with knit and stretch fabrics. The trank includes back and palm portions folded at the little finger edge of the hand for wrap around comfort. The back portion of the trank includes the back portions of the little, ring and middle finger stalls and the back and palm portions of the forefinger stall to provide a wrap-around effect at the forefinger edge fold. The thumb stall is part of the back portion of the trank when knit or stretch material is used, in which case special seams and stitching are utilized to impart a fashionable set-in appearance, or the thumb stall is cut separately for nonknit materials. A sidefinger fourchette is installed by continuous seams from the forefinger tip to the little finger tip and is cut to taper toward the tips of each finger stall before final stitching.

Description

United States Patent 1191 9 Jorgensen GLOVE consruucrron [76] Inventor: lone Towner Jorgensen, Rt. 3 Box 520, Bend, Oreg. 97701 [22] Filed: Nov. 8, 1971 [2]] Appl. No.: 196,552

[52] US. Cl. 2/169 [51] Int. Cl A41d 19/02 [58] Field of Search 2/169, 159, 163, 167, 165, 2/166; 33/12 [56] References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 276,310 4/1883 Ulwick 2/169 302,085 7/1884 Bartel 2/169 1,215,688 2/1917 Moller 2/167 1,427,419 8/1922 Ruddell 33/12 1,909,863 5/1933 Johanson. 2/169 2,119,177 5/1938 Pearce 2/169 2,248,200 7/1941 Rawles 2/169 2,316,575 4/1943 Evangelista 2/169 2,339,251 l/l944 Davidsohn 2/169 2,443,375 6/1948 Burkholz 2/169 2,464,378 3/1949 Coupas et a1... 2/169 2,544,515 3/1951 Tatar 2/169 2,552,258 5/1951 Collins l 2/169 2,596,349 5/1952 Thurlow et a1. 2/169 Y [111 3,821,817 1451 July 2,1974

Waller 2/165 Primary ExaminerGeo. V. Larkin [57] ABSTRACT A construction and pattern for fingered gloves, particularly dress gloves, especially designed for use with knit and stretch fabrics. The trank includes back and palm portions folded at the little finger edge of the hand for wrap around comfort. The back portion of the trank includes the back portions of the little, ring and middlefinger stalls and the back and palm portions of the forefinger stall to provide a wrap-around effect at the forefinger edge fold. The thumb stall is part of the back portion of the trank when knit or stretch material is used, in which case special seams and stitching are utilized to impart a fashionable set-in appearance, or the thumb stall is cut separately for non-knit materials. A sidefinger fourchette is installed by continuous seams from the forefinger tip to the lit-' tle finger tip and is cut to taper toward the tips of each finger stall before final stitching.

' 6 Claims, 7 Drawing Figures Canada 2/165 PATENTEUJUL 21974 3.821.817

SHEEI 1 0F 3 W I A zzx: l 1% x. F 54 i PATENTEDJUL 219-14 SHEET 2 BF 3 ,4 rrawiy PATENTEUJUL 2 1914 r 3.821. 8 1 7 sum 3 0F 3 GLOVE CONSTRUCTION BACKGROUND AND SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The primary purpose of this invention is to meet a need for a simple, yet stylish glove having a construction based on a pattern especially adapted for use of knit or stretch fabrics. In particular the pattern is intended for use by home seamstresses employing these popular fabrics. However, in the attempt to meet this specific need, an invention has resulted which is applicable, on a wider basis, both for use of other materials including woven fabrics, and for professional or industrial glove making.

It should be noted that the word pattern as used herein refers to the shape or outline, and associated markings, on a diagram by which fabric would be cut to pattern for construction of the glove. The word design is used to indicate the overall glove concept. A commercial printed pattern would include a printed layout of the shapes to which the fabric would be cut in accordance with the overall glove concept or design, and would also include size charts, construction diagrams and instructions. Stitching" is defined to include equivalent means for securing materials together, including but not limited to gluing and the use of other bonding means, chemical agents or the like.

To impart a clear understanding of the invention and the terminology used to described it, some examples of prior patterns and designs will be discussed. A dress glove pattern includes a trank, or main hand piece,

which typically includes the back and palm of the glove joined together along a fold line on the forefinger edge of the hand. The back and palm are cut separately if contrasting materials are to be used. The gouch or opening in the trank where the thumb is attached is always placed on the palm side of the trank. The thumb stall is typically cut separately and stitched to the trank, or in some work gloves a portion thereof is cut partially as a part of the trank, with other pieces added to complete the construction.

The palm and back sides of the fingers typically form parts of the trank in dress glove patterns, while in some work gloves theyare cut separately and stitched to the trank in constructing the glove, Sidefinger pieces, called fourchettes, are cut separately and stitched to the sides of the fingers in most patterns, and in some cases side pieces are used in making the thumb as well. A separate piece sewn into the crotch of the thumb is referred to as a quirk.

The construction and installation of the thumb has been the most difficult and troublesome aspect of glove design. The most common thumb construction is the so-called Bolton thumb, which is a separate piece, oval at the base or lower side of the thumb next to the wrist and includes extensions to the tip forming the palm and back sides of the thumb, with a slash cut diagonally into the thumb pattern on the palm side. The material below the slash line is typically extended somewhat beyond that above the slash line.

Many variations on the Bolton thumb design and the corresponding gouch have been developed. When properly fitted the Bolton thumb has been the snuggest fitting thumb design still allowing for maximum freedom of movement. However, its disadvantage is its intricacy and the complexity of its installation.

Simpler thumb designs have utilized an oval gouch and a symmetrical thumb piece, typical in less expensive gloves. Different variations of this design have been characterized by symmetry with respect to the thumb fold line, and in some cases the pattern has included a quirk in the crotch between the thumb and forefinger.

While the oval gouch and symmetrical thumb pattern is simpler to make than the Bolton variations, this design limits the range of thumb movement and is less comfortable to wear. The seam often tends to bind or chafe the webbed area between the wearer's thumb and forefinger, and variations intended to improve the freedom of motion have imparted more complexity or discomfort, or both.

Still another type of thumb construction is the socalled Ross-Shire thumb in which the palm side of the thumb is cut as a part of the trank, extending vertically downward toward the wrist portion of the trank, then lifted up when constructed to become the inside of the thumb. A separate piece is then sewn to this to become the back and sides of the thumb. This pattern was apparently designed for leather gloves. It would require a great deal of skill on the part of the seamstress to effect a proper fit for a dress glove and as such is found only in museums.

Many different designs of fourchettes, or sidefinger pieces, have been employed in glove construction over the years. These have included separate fourchette strips which have rectangular, tapered, rounded, pointed or other shapes, meticulously sewn on the sides of the individual fingers, sometimes with quirks reinforcing the crotches between the fingers. Continuous fourchette strips have been used, extending from the tip of the forefinger to the little finger tip and beyond, along the little finger edge of the hand to the wrist. In

one inexpensive and rather bulky driving glove design the fourchette strip extends from the wrist at the forefinger fold line, around all the fingers and back to the wrist on the little finger fold line, and a side strip is sewn around the thumb as well. Side strips are typically constructed of stretchable material in less expensive gloves where the same size glove is intended to fit a range of different size hands. In somedesigns, particularly work gloves, no separate fourchettes are provided, but side finger pieces are cut as a part of the separate finger pieces. However, such patterns are not generally applicable to dress gloves, for which this invention is primarily intended.

The number of pattern pieces is a critically important aspect of glove design, since it determines the amount of stitching and complexity of construction. Classic dress glove patterns utilizing pairs of fourchette strips typically require eight pattern pieces per glove, namely the trank, the thumb piece, and six fourchettes. Gloves cut with double fourchettes require five pattern pieces: the trank, the thumb piece and three double or pairs of fourchettes.

Some of the less expensive dress glove patterns, with stretchable fourchette strips completely outlining the hand and the thumb as previously mentioned, require six pieces: the back piece, the palm piece, two thumb pieces and two fourchette strips. The smallest number of pieces in any handwear pattern known to date, other than simple mitts of the potlifter type, has been three pattern pieces in a ski mitten design and four pieces in 3 the socalled Gunn-cut work glove, when made without a welt.

In pursuing the object of simplicity in pattern design and construction, it is a principle goal of this invention to provide a pattern having the smallest possible number of pattern pieces, and hence the minimum amount of required stitching. Accordingly, while variations of the'invention may consist of three or even four pieces, when knit or stretch material is used the design consists of only two pieces: a single pattern piece incorporating both the trank and the entire thumb piece as a portion thereof, and a single separate fourchette.

No known fingered glove pattern to date has consisted of so few pattern pieces, or has required so few seams. Further, in no previously known glove pattern is the entire thumb attached to and completely incorporated with the trank with no additional piece necessary to complete the construction besides the fourchette. Nor has any previous design so readily enabled the seamstress to fit the glove to unusually thick hands or fingers deformed by arthritis or the like.

In addition, patterns in accordance with the invention are more readily adaptable to a great variety of fabrics. Heretofore only firm knit fabrics were used in glove manufacture, whereas all knit fabrics can be used by the home seamstress with the aid of this invention. This brings a formidable problem in glove sizing, as a four inch piece of one knit fabric may stretch only three-fourths of an inch, while another may stretch double its length. In the latter event, gloves intended for a small woman may fit a large man. This renders desirable a means for predetermining the size of the glove before cutting, into the fabric.

' Therefore, the inventor has devised a stretch factor test of the actual fabric in question. The stretch factor determines three things: (1-) the size of pattern the seamstress will choose, (2) the width she cuts the sidefinger strip originally, and (3) the amount she will trim from the strip during construction. In addition to the usual glove measurement taken of the circumference of the hand, a new measurement the thickness of the middle finger will be taken. Size charts given on contemplated commercial printed patterns will coordinate hand measurements with stretch factors of different fabrics to achieve the proper fit.

- Briefly, the invention resides in a construction for a fingered glove wherein the trank consists of a palm portion, preferably including the palm portions of the middle, ring and little finger stalls; a back portion, preferably including the back portions for little ring and middle finger stalls, together with the palm portion joined to the backportion of the forefinger stall along a forefinger fold line; a single thumb stall having back and palm I portions joined along a thumb fold line which forms an acute angle of at least 40 with the forefinger fold line; and sidefinger closure means.

When stitched, the trank with attached thumb stall is folded on three fold lines bringing the edges together in such a manner that two seams complete all construction except for attaching the fourchette. The first closes the thumb and attaches the thumb palm extension to the forefinger base. The second extends from the foreof topstitching are important to give the illusion of a set-in thumb in the preferred designs.

The preferred embodiment of the invention contemplates the use of knit or stretch materials, which permit greater simplicity and enhance the comfort and appearance of the glove. In this embodiment the palm and back portions of the trank are cut as one piece. However, when contrasting colors on the back and palm are desired, separate back and palm pieces may be stitched together along the little finger edge of the hand before further stitching is done, or a contrasting piece may be appliqued over the back or palm (or other portion) of the glove. In any event, the palm and back portions comprise the main trank which is folded around the hand along the little finger edge.

In addition, when knit or stretch materials are used,

the entire thumb stall also is cut as part of the trank, joined to the back portion of the trank along a joinder line which is substantially. aligned with the forefinger fold line (that is, parallel to the fingers). The trank is cut with the thumb fold line aligned with the true bias of the material. A tuck is included along the aforementioned thumb joinder line to impart a set-in appearance. The glove is completed by the single separate fourchette.

'When woven fabric or other non-stretch material is used, the thumb stall is cut separate from the back portion of the trank. The back portion of. the thumb stall is then stitched to the back portion of the trank, along a joinder line substantially aligned with the forefinger edge fold. In this embodiment both the palm and back portions of the trank (preferably one piece) and the thumb stall are cut from the fabric in such away as to have their respective fold lines lie in the direction of true bias of the material. The desired set-in thumb appearance occurs naturally in this embodiment by virtue of the aforementioned stitching along the joinder line. The fourchette, also cut on true bias, is installed as before. This embodiment thus includes a minimum of two pattern pieces plus the fourchette.

The palm portion of the thumb stall according to the invention includes an extension, the end of which, when the thumb stall is folded, is stitched to the base of the forefinger palm portion along a cross seam, which is a continuation of the thumb closure seam. The side of the extension is stitched to the palm portion of the trank along a thumb palm-seam extending from the cross seam to the wrist. The thumb palm seam is a por tion of a continuous curved palm seam which extends from the forefinger crotch to the cuff edge of the glove.

This continuous curved palm seam, together with the thumb closure seam (including the cross seam) andthe two fourchette seams, are the only seams necessary to complete the basic construction of the glove.

The invention also resides in a feature of the thumb stall whereby its back and palm portions are preferably curved nonsymmetrically toward the tip thereof in order to provide more material on the palm side of the thumb than on the back side. This avoids positioning the thumb closure seam across the grasping surface of the thumb and imparts greater comfort, as well as enhanced appearance. This feature is important independent of theone-piece trank and thumb stall feature of the invention. 1

The sidefinger or fourchette strip means preferably comprises a single strip stitched first to the palm sides of the fingers along a continuous seam from the tip of the forefinger to the tip of the little finger. The strip is cut to taper toward the tips of each finger stall before it is stitched to the backsides of the fingers. The crotches between fingers are cut deeper on the back side than on the palm side so that the continuous strip when stitched is angled in the crotches to better accommodate the webbed portions of the hand between the fingers. Shaping of the strip at this point in the construction allows its widest parts to fall precisely at bottoms of slashes between fingers.

Although broadly applicable to commercial glove making, the pattern and construction disclosed herein were designed expressly for the home seamstress to use with knit or stretch fabric. It is estimated that well over half of all ready-to-wear garments are now of knit fabric, and the percentage is expected to increase rapidly. In addition, home sewing using these new materials is increasing in popularity at the same time, causing proliferation of classes for home seamstresses who wish to perfect their techniques using the new materials.

While modern sewing machines with many sophisticated improvements and features are available, the invention is designed for glove making with a simple straight stitch type machine, the only attachment needed being a roller foot with a zig zag slot, available inexpensively for most machines.

Additionally, the invention seeks to provide a fashionable glove pattern which is simple enough for construction by amateur seamstresses, yet has the appearance of a high fashion glove.

While the actual steps of construction in accordance with a pattern and instructions which are available are not set out in detail herein, persons skilled in the art will understand and can practice the invention from the description included, taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS FIG. 1 is a plan view of a two piece glove design according to one embodiment of the invention, showing the sidefinger strip and the inside of the one piece trank for a right-hand glove.

FIG. 2 is a plan view of the inside of a right-hand glove, in accordance with a second embodiment of the invention.

FIG. 3 is a view of the thumb stall of a glove finished in accordance with the invention illustrating certain features of the thumb construction.

FIG. 4 is a view of the back of a finished right-hand glove in accordance with the invention.

FIG. 5 is a view of the palm side of a finished lefthand glove in accordance with the invention.

FIG. 6 is a plan view of a one-piece trank for a lefthand glove according to the invention, with a contrasting back piece superimposed over a portion of the DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS Referring to FIG. 1, the basic one piece trank for a right-hand glove is shown, with the inside (or wrong side) facing up. The trank 10 consists of a palm portion 12 with a curved edge 54 and a base edge 61, which.

palm portion includes the palm portions of the middle,

ring and little finger stalls, a back portion 14, which includes the back portions for little, ring and middle finger stalls, together with the back 24 and 26 portion of the forefinger stall integral along a forefinger fold line 20, and a thumb stall 16 connected to the back portion 14 of the trank along a joinder line 18 which is aligned with the forefinger fold line 20 between the forefinger stall back and palm portions. The trank has three basic folds: the main fold line 22 along the little finger edge of the hand, the forefinger fold line 20, and the thumb fold line 23. While prior dress glove patterns have included a seam along the outside edge or little finger edge of the hand, this design omits that seam to give a wrap around effect at that edge of the hand from the wrist to the tip of the little finger, imparting smoother fit, greater comfort and more fashionable appearance. The outside edge of the hand is often rested upon a surface, and the wearer would normally be aware of a seam along that edge.

The wrap around forefinger construction is important to retain the appearance of the classic dress glove and allows a basic construction of only four seams. The back portion 24 and palm 26 portion of the forefinger stall are slightly wider than the back and palm portions of the middle and ring finger stalls to compensate for the absence of a side finger strip on the outside edge, as discussed later. The same is true of the back and palm portions of the little finger stall. The palm portion 26 of the forefinger stall incorporates a rectangular forefinger base section 28 which terminates in a seam allowance 30 on'the side, extending from the base line 32 up the finger to the point where the'forefinger and middle finger join. The seam allowance 30 on the side of the forefinger base section is joined to the thumb portion of the trank in a seam extending from the forefinger crotch 124, FIG. 5, to the cross seam 44-the forefinger crotch seam 40, FIG. 5.v

The pattern of this invention includes no gouch, which is the palm opening into which the separate thumb stall is fitted in prior dress glove patterns, where the major fold of the trank extends the full length of the hand along the forefinger edge of the glove. Instead, the trank is folded around the hand from the outside or little finger edge, the forefinger pieces arewrapped around the forefinger edge of the hand, and the thumb piece is wrapped around the thumb to close the trank. This can be seen by comparing FIGS. 1 and 5.

The thumb stall 16 consists of a palm portion 36 and a backportion 34, integral along a thumb fold line which intersects the forefinger fold line by at least a 40 angle, the palm portion of the thumb stall including a thumb palm extension 38 which, when the thumb stall is folded, extends part way across the palm of the hand as shown in FIG. 5. The end 42 of the thumb palm extension 38 meets and is stitched to the base edge 32 of the forefinger base section 28 forming a cross seam 44. The parabolic curve edge 46 between the thumb palm extension end 42 and the tip 35 of the palm portion 36 of the thumb stall meets a similar parabolic curved edge 48 between the tip of the back portion of the thumb stall and the back of the trank to form the crotch of the thumb 51, FIG. 4 by stitching along the thumb closure seam 50, which appears in FIGS. 3 and 4. The curved edges towards the tips of the palm and back portions of the thumb stall are cut nonsymmetrically so that the thumb closure seam S0 is offset toward the back of the hand and, rather than extending across it outlines the grasping portion of the wearers thumb. This nonsymmetrical cut and stitching avoids the discomfort of a misplaced seam which occurs in prior dress glove patterns.

The lower curved edge 52 of palm portion 36 of the thumb stall curves from the point where it meets the back portion 14 of the trank toward the extension 38.

This curved edge meets the correspondingly curved edge 54 of the palm portion 12 of the trank. These pieces are stitched together along the thumb-palm seam 56, visible in FIG. 5, which extends from the corner of the forefinger base section 28-cross seam 44-to a point 58 at the base of the thumb stall. The comparatively broad concave curve 52 reverses to a narrow concave are at this point where it blends into the wrist seam 60 which joins the base edge 61 of the palm portion and the basev edge 63 of the back portion of the trank in a wrist seam aligned substantially with the forefinger fold line.

Theforefinger crotch seam 40, the thumb-palm seam 56, and the wrist seam 60form a continuous curved palm seam 62 from the forefinger crotch to the cuff edge 59 of the glove. The significance of this seam 62 is its location in relation to the hinging of the thumb of the human hand. The hinging action'of the thumb can beobserved by extending ones fingers and thumb out with the palm facing up. Then, holding the fingers flat and reaching the thumb across the palm, it will be noted'that the palm skin hinges along a wrinkle which curves wellacross the palm of the hand from a point below the base of the forefinger and curves around the base of the thumb to the wrist. The palm seam 62 matches the location of this fold line of the hand more closely and accurately than previously known patterns. In other words, the thumb and palm portion of the glove pattern are joined together in a way which is much more appropriate and more closely related to the movement of the muscles of the hand. The result is a closer and more comfortable fit. The thumb-palm seam 56 is top-stitched on the palm side of and parallel to the seam line 56 as shown by the dotted line 57 (See FIG. 5); to strengthen the seam, to enhance the comfort by flattening the seam, and to enhance the appearance of the glove by adding to the illusion of a set-in thumb. In addition, the curve of the palm seam is important from the standpoint of permitting a simple closure .of the trankaround the hand without necessity for additional pieces or seams. That is, the thumb closure seam S and the forefinger cross seam 44 form one continuous I seam and the palm seam 62'is another, which together serve to close the wrap-around forefinger, the: wraparound thumb, and the wrap-around trank. When compared to previous designs, these seams replace all sides seams and the usual thumb-to-gouch seams.

In FIG. 1 the thread or grain direction of the material is indicated at several locations on the trank. The direction of true bias, the diagonal, is shown by the arrow A. The pattern is cut from the fabric in this relationship to the bias direction when'knit or stretch fabrics are used but also so that maximum stretch inherent in the fabric goes around the hand in the direction of arrow B. The thumb fold line 22 extends by at least a 40 angle of the main trank portion of the glove. It is important that the thumb fold extend in the same directionas the true bias of the fabric in order to impart the proper give or flexibility in a symmetrical way to the thumb. If the thumb is not cut on the true bias, then the material of the thumb stall will have more give or flexibility in one direction than in the other, causing a noticable discomfort in the action" of the glove when worn. In addition, a more natural fit is provided, since the approximate natural angle of the thumb to the forefinger edge of the hand is about 45.

Turning now to the back of the glove as shown in FIG. 4, three

straight tucks

64, 66 and 68 are stitched centrally down the back portion 14 at angles to one another converging toward the wrist. These are nonfunctional, decorative tucks which appear in most fashionable gloves, and are not new to this invention. A fourth tuck,'70, however, is unique to this invention. This tuck is taken along the joinder line 18 (FIG. 1) between the back portion of the thumb stall and the back portion of the trank. Its function is to impart the appearance of a set-in thumb stall to match the appearance of classic glove designs. Thethumb stall is thus separated in appearance from the back of the glove, even though structurally it is the samepieceLThe tuck 70 also includesend

portions

72 and 74 which meet the forefinger base seam 44 and the wrist seam 60 respectively. Together with the cross searn' 44 and the top stitched thumb-palm seam 56, the tuck 70 and extensions 72 fabric. It is cut from knit fabric in the direction shown,

that is, straight with the grain with maximum stretch 'around the hand. The finger stalls are completed by stitching the fourchette 76 along the inside edges and around the tips 108 of the finger stalls from the little finger fold line 22 to the forefinger fold line 20, or vice versa. This stiching, in most versions, is done with the glove and finger stalls turned inside out. In accordance with this invention the sidefinger fourchette 76 is cut to taper toward the tip 108 of each finger stall from the crotches 106 therebetween to accommodate the natural taper of the wearers fingers. Procedurally, this is done after the fourchette is stiched to the palm sides 112 of the finger stalls. In'prior dress gloves, the backs of the finger stalls were stitched first. Here the reverse is true because in cutting excess fabric from the fourchette 76, besides varying the depth from the maximum at the crotch 106 to the minimum at the fingertips 108 of the finger stalls a longer edge 1 10 is obtained on the back of the fourchette where it is needed to accommodate the deeper slash between each finger (Compare 116 and 114, FIG. 1). p

The stitching on theback side of the finger stalls is terminated in the crotch at points farther from the finger tips of the finger stalls than on the palm side, in order to accommodate the web portions between the wearers fingers. The taper is visible to some extent in FIG. 4, and it will be noted that the termination points of the slashes between the finger stalls in FIG. I extend farther (116) from the finger tips on the back portion 14 of the trank than 114 on the palm portion 12 individual characteristics of finger shape or individual deformities among which enlarged arthritic knuckles are common. Because excess material is trimmed from the sidefinger strip during construction, greater accuracy is achieved.

As noted earlier, the middle finger and ring finger stalls have side strips on each side, while the little finger and forefinger stalls do not. Hence the little and forefinger back and palm portions stalls are slightly wider than the middle and ring finger back and palm portions of the stalls, as is visible upon a close examination of FIG. 1. Otherwise, the wrap-around effect that the forefinger and little finger edges of the hand wouldresult in fingers which are too small and hence would not fit, or would necessitate making the sidefinger strip for those two fingers wider, resulting in a triangular cross section in each case.

A second embodiment of the invention is adapted for use with woven fabrics and other non-stretch materials. In this embodiment, shown in FIG. 2, the thumb stall 78 is cut-separately from the main trank piece 80, and both pieces are cut in the relationship shown, with the main trank fold line 22 and the thumb fold line 23 extending'in the direction of the true bias of the material. Note that the grain or threads of the material are shown extending diagonally of both pieces, the true bias, then, being in the direction of either arrow A or B, and the maximum stretch being in the direction of arrow B. In this embodiment the thumb stall 78 includes a seam allowance 82, forming a substantially straight joinder line, plus added extensions'82a and 82b thereof. The

entire seam allowance is joined to the main trank piece by stitching along the

lines connecting points

90, 92, 94 and 96. The substantiallyv straight thumb joinder line 84 aligned with the forefinger fold line 20 corresponds to the joinder line 18 in the embodiment first described, and seam extensions 90 to 92 and 94 to 96 correspond to the

tuck extensions

72 and 74 in FIG. 1, and when these substantially straight joinder lines of the thumb stall and trank are joined they form a seam in the finished glove equivalent to the tuck 70 shown in FIG. 4.

The construction of the glove in accordance with this embodiment is identical in other respects to the em bodiment first described, including parabolic

curved edges

46 and 48 to form the thumb crotch of the glove when-assembled, and joinder of the remaining portions of the thumb stall 78 to the "forefinger'base and the I palm portion of the trank, as well as the sidefinger strip.

Woven fabrics and other non-stretch materials are characterized by a less flexible and hence less comfortable fit than the knit or stretch fabrics, but the appearance of the glove is virtually the same in this embodiment as in that first described. The only difierence is the thumb joinder seam on the back of the hand, which is distinguishable from the tuck 70 in the first embodiment only on close examination.

Construction of both embodiments is completed by a hem line 86 around the wrist and installation of a piece of elastic along the line 88 across the inside of the palm portion 12 above the wrist and parallel to the hem line 86.

Either embodiment maybe modified in various ways within the scope of the principles disclosed. The palm and back portions of the trank, for example, may be cut from contrasting materials, necessitating a seam along the fold line 22. Thisseam (not shown) would be sewn first to form the basic trank and construction would proceed as described. However, this additional construction seam can be avoided and still obtain the desired decorative result by appliqueing a contrasting back piece'98 over the back portion 14a of the main trank piece, for example, as shown in FIG. 6. The added piece shown also includes a thumb back portion 99 over the thumb back portion 16a of the underlying pattern piece. A similar addition can be made on the palm side with leather, for example, for driving gloves or the like.

Besides the continuous seams for installation of the sidefinger strip from the tip of the. little finger to the tip of the forefinger, the basic pattern according to the invention requires only two basic seams. These are the continuous seam consisting of the thumb closure seam .50 and the forefinger cross seam 44, and the curved palm seam 62 extending from the forefinger crotch to the cuff edge of the glove.

The fingered glove pattern and construction in accordance with invention is thus characterized by simplicity and ease of construction for the seamstress, and by comfort and fashionable appearance for the wearer. By use of the popular knit and stretch fabrics and the pattern described herein amateur seamstresses can easily make thrifty use of small remnants to make gloves matching other garments or accessories in color and design to fashionably complete the wearers wardrobe.

What is claimed is:

1. A construction for a fingered glove comprising:

1. a trank having a palm portion with a curved edge and a base edge,- said palm portion including the palm portions for the middle, ring and little finger stalls, and a back portion integral with the palm portion along a little finger fold line, said back portion of the trank including back portions for the little, ring and middle finger stalls and both back and palm portions for the forefinger stall integral along a forefinger fold line, plus a'forefinger base section having a seam allowance on the side and a base edge, with a base edge also on the back portion of the trank, g

2. a thumb stall which includes a thumb back portion integral with-the back'portion of the trank along a joinder line substantially alignedwith the forefinger fold line, 'a thumb palmvportion integral with the thumb back portion along a thumb fold line which intersects the forefinger fold line by at least a 40 angle, plus a thumb palm extension, with a parabolic curved edge between the thumbpalm extension end and the tip of the palm portion-of the thumb stall and asimilar parabolic curved edge between the tip of the back portion of the thumb stall and the back portion of the trank, and also a lower curved edge on the palm portion of the thumb stall,

3. side finger closure means,

4. said glove when assembled including a continuous seam joining the end of the thumb palm extension to the base edge of the forefinger base section, joining the parabolic curved edge between the thumb palm extension end and the tip of thepalm portion of the thumb stall to the similar parabolic curved edge between the tip of the back portion of the thumb stall and the back portion of the trank, to form the crotch of the thumb of the assembled glove, and continuing to close the remainder of the thumb stall in the thumb closure seam; as well as a second continuous seam from the forefinger crotch to the cuff edge of the glove. I

2. The glove construction of claim 1 wherein the continuous forefinger crotch to cuff edge seam is formed by joining the seam allowance on the side of the forefinger base section to the palm portion of the trank, the

get crotch to the cross seam, joining the lower curved edge of the palm portion of the thumb stall to the correspondingly curved edge on the palm portion of the trank, the thumb-palm seam, which extends from the cross seam to a point at the base of the thumb stall, joining the base edge of the back portion of the trank to the base edge of the palm portion of the trank in a wrist seam aligned substantially with the forefinger fold line.

3. The glove construction of claim 1 wherein the thumb stall is integral with the trank, a tuck is taken along the joinder line between the back portion of the thumb stall and the back portion of the trank, with the function of imparting to the thumb stall of the finished glove .a set-in appearance suitable for a dress glove.

4. The glove construction of claim 1 wherein the palm and back portions of the thumb stall being integral on the thumb fold line, are curved non-symmetricallytowards the tips thereof, so that the thumb palm forefinger crotch seam, which extends from the forefinportion is larger than the thumb back portion of the thumb stall and the thumb closure seam outlines the grasping area of the'wearers thumb.

S. The glove construction of claim 1 wherein the side finger closure means comprises a fourchett'e of desired maximum width stitched to the palm portions of the four finger stalls, excess fabric being trimmed from the fourchette strip from a maximum width at the crotch between each finger to the minimum width desired at the fingertips of the finger stalls, the longer edge obtained on the back side of the strip extending to fit the deeper crotch at the back of the fingerstalls.

6. A construction for a fingered glove comprising; 1. a trank having a palm portion with a'curved edge and a base edge, said palm'portion including the palm portions for the middle, ring and little finger stalls, and a back portion integral withthe palm portion along a little finger fold line, said back por- '2. a thumb stall separate from the trank, with a seam allowancevon the back portion of the thumb stall forming a substantially straight joinder line to be stitched to the thumb joinder lineon the back portion of the trank, with the palm portion integral with'the back portion of the thumb stall along a thumb fold line which intersects the forefinger fold line when the glove is assembled by at least a 40 angle, plus a thumb palm extension and parabolic curved edges to form the thumb crotch of the glove when assembled,

3. side closure means,

4. said glove when assembled including a substantially straight thumb joinder seam, a continuous seam joining the end of the thumb palm extension to the base edge of the forefinger base section, joining the parabolic curved edge between the thumb palm extension end and the tip of the palm portion of the thumb stall to the similar parabolic curved edge between the tip of the back portion of the thumb stall and the back portion of the trank, to form the crotch of the thumb of the assembled glove, and continuing to close the remainder of the thumb stall in thethumb closure seam; as well as I ,a second continuous seam from the forefinger crotch to the cuff edge of the glove.

Claims

1. A construction for a fingered glove comprising: 1. a trank having a palm portion with a curved edge and a base edge, said palm portion including the palm portions for the middle, ring and little finger stalls, and a back portion integral with the palm portion along a little finger fold line, said back portion of the trank including back portions for the little, ring and middle finger stalls and both back and palm portions for the forefinger stall integral along a forefinger fold line, plus a forefinger base section having a seam allowance on the side and a base edge, with a base edge also on the back portion of the trank, 2. a thumb stall which includes a thumb back portion integral with the back portion of the trank along a joinder line substantially aligned with the forefinger fold line, a thumb palm portion integral with the thumb back portion along a thumb fold line which intersects the forefinger fold line by at least a 40* angle, plus a thumb palm extension, with a parabolic curved edge between the thumb palm extension end and the tip of the palm portion of the thumb stall and a similar parabolic curved edge between the tip of the back portion of the thumb stall and the back portion of the trank, and also a lower curved edge on the palm portion of the thumb stall, 3. side finger closure means, 4. said glove when assembled including a continuous seam joining the end of the thumb palm extension to the base edge of the forefinger base section, joining the parabolic curved edge between the thumb palm extension end and the tip of the palm portion of the thumb stall to the similar parabolic curved edge between the tip of the back portion of the thumb stall and the back portion of the trank, to form the crotch of the thumb of the assembled glove, and continuing to close the remainder of the thumb stall in the thumb closure seam; as well as a second continuous seam from the forefinger crotch to the cuff edge of the glove.

2. a thumb stall which includes a thumb back portion integral with the back portion of the trank along a joinder line substantially aligned with the forefinger fold line, a thumb palm portion integral with the thumb back portion along a thumb fold line which intersects the forefinger fold line by at least a 40* angle, plus a thumb palm extension, with a parabolic curved edge between the thumb palm extension end and the tip of the palm portion of the thumb stall and a similar parabolic curved edge between the tip of the back portion of the thumb stall and the back portion of the trank, and also a lower curved edge on the palm portion of the thumb stall,

2. a thumb stall separate from the trank, with a seam allowance on the back portion of the thumb stall forming a substantially straight joinder line to be stitched to the thumb joinder line on the back portion of the trank, with the palm portion integral with the back portion of the thumb stall along a thumb fold line which intersects the forefinger fold line when the glove is assembled by at least a 40* angle, plus a thumb palm extension and parabolic curved edges to form the thumb crotch of the glove when assembled,

2. The glove construction of claim 1 wherein the continuous forefinger crotch to cuff edge seam is formed by joining the seam allowance on the side of the forefinger base section to the palm portion of the trank, the forefinger crotch seam, which extends from the forefinger crotch to the cross seam, joining the lower curved edge of the palm portion of the thumb stall to the correspondingly curved edge on the palm portion of the trank, the thumb-palm seam, which extends from the cross seam to a point at the base of the thumb stall, joining the base edge of the back portion of the trank to the base edge of the palm portion of the trank in a wrist seam aligned substantially with the forefinger fold line.

3. side closure means,

3. The glove construction of claim 1 wherein the thumb stall is integral with the trank, a tuck is taken along the joinder line between the back portion of the thumb stall and the back portion of the trank, with the function of imparting to the thumb stall of the finished glove a set-in appearance suitable for a dress glove.

3. side finger closure means,

4. said glove when assembled including a substantially straight thumb joinder seam, a continuous seam joining the end of the thumb palm extension to the base edge of the forefinger base section, joining the parabolic curved edge between the thumb palm extenSion end and the tip of the palm portion of the thumb stall to the similar parabolic curved edge between the tip of the back portion of the thumb stall and the back portion of the trank, to form the crotch of the thumb of the assembled glove, and continuing to close the remainder of the thumb stall in the thumb closure seam; as well as a second continuous seam from the forefinger crotch to the cuff edge of the glove.

4. said glove when assembled including a continuous seam joining the end of the thumb palm extension to the base edge of the forefinger base section, joining the parabolic curved edge between the thumb palm extension end and the tip of the palm portion of the thumb stall to the similar parabolic curved edge between the tip of the back portion of the thumb stall and the back portion of the trank, to form the crotch of the thumb of the assembled glove, and continuing to close the remainder of the thumb stall in the thumb closure seam; as well as a second continuous seam from the forefinger crotch to the cuff edge of the glove.

4. The glove construction of claim 1 wherein the palm and back portions of the thumb stall being integral on the thumb fold line, are curved non-symmetrically towards the tips thereof, so that the thumb palm portion is larger than the thumb back portion of the thumb stall and the thumb closure seam outlines the grasping area of the wearer''s thumb.

5. The glove construction of claim 1 wherein the side finger closure means comprises a fourchette of desired maximum width stitched to the palm portions of the four finger stalls, excess fabric being trimmed from the fourchette strip from a maximum width at the crotch between each finger to the minimum width desired at the fingertips of the finger stalls, the longer edge obtained on the back side of the strip extending to fit the deeper crotch at the back of the fingerstalls.

6. A construction for a fingered glove comprising;