US3751795A - Method of making bezels for setting precious stones - Google Patents

Method of making bezels for setting precious stones Download PDF

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Publication number
US3751795A
US3751795A US00224492A US3751795DA US3751795A US 3751795 A US3751795 A US 3751795A US 00224492 A US00224492 A US 00224492A US 3751795D A US3751795D A US 3751795DA US 3751795 A US3751795 A US 3751795A
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United States
Prior art keywords
rod
head
milling
stem
diameter
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Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
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US00224492A
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English (en)
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H Favre
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Individual
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Individual
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Publication date
Priority claimed from FR59538A external-priority patent/FR1506317A/fr
Priority claimed from FR78730A external-priority patent/FR1505450A/fr
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Publication of US3751795A publication Critical patent/US3751795A/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/02Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00Metal working
    • Y10T29/23Gem and jewel setting
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00Metal working
    • Y10T29/49Method of mechanical manufacture
    • Y10T29/49588Jewelry or locket making
    • Y10T29/4959Human adornment device making
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00Metal working
    • Y10T29/49Method of mechanical manufacture
    • Y10T29/49789Obtaining plural product pieces from unitary workpiece
    • Y10T29/49798Dividing sequentially from leading end, e.g., by cutting or breaking
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00Metal working
    • Y10T29/49Method of mechanical manufacture
    • Y10T29/49995Shaping one-piece blank by removing material
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00Metal working
    • Y10T29/49Method of mechanical manufacture
    • Y10T29/49995Shaping one-piece blank by removing material
    • Y10T29/49996Successive distinct removal operations

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a method of manufacturing bezels for setting precious stones.
  • Various methods have already been proposed for manufacturing bezels constituting supports adapted to receive precious stones or gems secured by setting.
  • the initial material is a solid rod or bar shaped by die-stamping and subsequently machined to form a central bore in the lateral walls of the resulting tube longitudinal notches are formed to constitute the claws for eventually setting the precious stones or gems.
  • Another object of this invention consists in providing an improved method permitting of obtaining a bezel provided with an integral gaged perforated stem adapted to combine a high degree of precision with a particularly rapid setting of precious stones by using only simple means.
  • thismethod of manufacturing bezels for setting precious stones and the like from cylindrical rod stock is characterized in that a blind bore is firstly formed coaxially into the front face of the rod to constitute a recess of relatively large diameteradapted to receive the precious stone, that the dutersurface of the rod is turned so as to form in the rod portion enclosing said recess a hollow head of which the maximum outer diameter is substantially equal to the rod diameter, and a solid stem adjoining said head but of a diameter smaller than the rod diameter, whereafter longitudinal open notches are cut by milling in the lateral wall of said hollow head which open into said front face of the head and form therebetween claws to be used subsequently for setting the precious stone, said stem of minor diameter being then drilled coaxially and severed by cutting from the remaining portion of the rod.
  • the method of this invention is carried out by using for the turning and milling operations milling cutters, twist-bits, carbide and diamond tools capable of combinlng a high degree of precision with a very satisfactory finish.
  • milling cutters twist-bits
  • carbide and diamond tools capable of combinlng a high degree of precision with a very satisfactory finish.
  • very small and therefore cheap diamonds may be used this solution is applicable only because these small diamonds can be cemented to a tool, since the machining operations are performed under oil spray conditions, thus preventing any overheating of the cement.
  • coupled diamonds affording contorted shapes while being extremely simple to cut may also be used. Operating with an ample supply of oil will eliminate completely any loss of gold dust or other precious metal dust.
  • the turning and milling operations are accomplished on a metal rod constantly clamped in a rotary headstock, so that the rod positioning and centres are extremely accurate and the resulting bezel is also characterized by a high degree of precision, thus facilitating the subsequent setting steps performed by using mechanical means.
  • FIG. I is a diagrammatic elevational view of the rod stock before the first axial boring operation
  • FIG. 2 is an axial section showing the rod after this first axial boring operation
  • FIGS. 3a, 3b, 3c, 3d, 3e and 3f are diagrammatic fragmentary elevational views showing different ways of performing the rod turning operation
  • FIGS. 4a, 4b and 4c are similar views showing the different steps of a milling operation
  • FIGS. 50, 5b and 5c are diagrammatic elevational views illustrating different successive steps of a modified formof embodiment of the milling operation
  • FIGS. 6a, 6b and 6c are diagrammatic elevational views showing successive steps of a modified procedure for performing the milling operation FIGS.
  • FIGS. 7a, 7b and 7c are diagrammatic elevational views showing the successive steps of another way of performing the milling operation
  • FIG. 7d is a horizontal section showing on a larger scale the head of a bezel obtained after three milling operations performed in planes shifted by 120 to each other
  • FIG. 7e is a diagrammatic perspective view showing a bezel obtained after the milling operations illustrated in FIGS. 7a to 7d
  • FIGS. 8a, 8b and 8c are diagrammatic elevational views showing the successive steps of another milling operation according to this invention
  • FIG. 8d is a diagrammatic perspective view showing a bezel obtained by performing the milling operation illustrated in FIGS. to 80, and,
  • FIGS. 9 to 14 inclusive are perspective views showing different forms of embodiment of bezels obtained by the method of this invention.
  • FIG. I there is shown diagrammatically the first step of the method of manufacturing bezels which consists in forming an axial concentric bore in a solid metal rod 1 having a diameter a, by means of a twist-bit 2 having a diameter b inferior to said diameter a.
  • the rod 1 is shown in axial section in FIG. 2 after the boring step, the resulting recess 3 having a diameter b and opening into the front or upper face of rod 1, its depth being denoted p
  • this recess 3 may comprise adjacent its outer end a shoulder 4 having a diameter intermediate the values a and b, so that the uppermost portion of the wall of recess 3 will be somewhat thinner.
  • the next step may consist either in milling the claws or turning its outer surface.
  • FIGS. 3a to 3f illustrate diagrammatically the various turning steps required for obtaining different external contours of the bezel.
  • This turning step is directed to produce at the rod end a head of which the maximum outer diameter is substantially equal to the diameter a of rod 1, this head being connected through a narrower stem 6 to the remaining portion of the rod.
  • the head 5 illustrated in FIG. 3a is machined by turning and comprises a cylindrical upper surface 50 having a diameter a, followed by an intermediate tapered or frustoconical portion 5b and then, by another cylindrical portion 50 having a smaller diameter 0 connected to the remaining portion of rod 1 through a stem 6 of reduced diameter the tools implemented for this turning operation are shown diagrammatically at 7.
  • the head 8 of generally cylindro-conical configuration has an upper cylindrical lateral surface 8a of relatively great height having a lower frustoconical extension 8b of reduced height, connected to the stem 6
  • the head 9 comprises two frustoconical sections assembled by their major bases, providing an upper frustoconical surface 9a converging upwards and of relatively great height, connected to the stem 6 through the medium of a smaller frustoconical surface 9b converging downwards and of relatively reduced height.
  • FIG. 3d also illustrates a head 10 of double frustoconical configuration but of reverse structure, i.e. comprising an upper frustoconical surface 10a converging upwards and of relatively reduced height, having a lower extension in the form of another frustoconical surface 10b of relatively substantial height which is connected to the stem 6.
  • the head 11 shown in FIG. 3e comprises an upper cylindrical surface 11a of relatively great height connected through a surface 11b having a curved meridian to the stem 6.
  • FIG. 3f shows a completely cylindrical head having a diameter a and connected directly to the stem 6 of relatively small diameter.
  • FIGS. 4a to 40 A first method of milling said claws is illustrated diagrammatically in FIGS. 4a to 40.
  • the milling operation is accomplished by working on a biconical head 10 obtained by turning as illustrated in FIG. 3d.
  • a milling cutter l3 revolving about a stationary horizontal axis 14 is used.
  • the rod 1 is fed vertically upwards in order to cause the head 10 to engage the milling cutter 13 which, of course, is positioned in a diametral plane of the head.
  • the cutter 13 cuts in the hollow head 10 a pair of diametrally opposed notches 15.
  • the rod 1 is lowered to free same from the cutter l3 and the rod is rotated about its axis through a predetermined angle, whereafter the milling operation is resumed.
  • FIGS. 5a, 5b and 5c illustrate a similar milling operation performed on the head 5 of FIG. 3a by means of a cylindrical cutter 13.
  • notches 15 opening upwards and having a rounded bottom are obtained.
  • the horizontal axis of rotation 14 of the milling cutter 13a extends across the vertical axis of head 5 and each notch 15 is cut by imparting a vertical reciprocating motion to the head 5 in either direction (but alternatively this motion may be imparted to the cutter 3a), to cut each notch 15 separately, whereafter the head is rotated through a suitable angle.
  • These longitudinal notches 15 form therebetween teeth 16 adapted to constitute the claws for retaining the precious stones or gems by setting.
  • FIGS. 6a, 6b and 6c illustrate a milling operation similar to that shown diagrammatically in FIGS. 4a to 4c but performed on a cylindro-conical head 5 by using a cutter 13 cutting only on one-half of the head diameter.
  • the horizontal axis of rotation 14 of this cutter l3 and the vertical axis of the head 5 do not intersect each other in this case and the head 5 is reciprocated along its vertical axis.
  • the cutter 13 cuts only one notch 15, so that an odd number of claw 16 can be obtained.
  • the rod 1 on which a head 5 has been turned is kept in a vertical stationary position while the axis of rotation 14 of cutter 13 is shifted in a horizontal plane while maintaining this axis parallel to itself.
  • the cutter 13 travels in a vertical plane x-y while revolving about its axis, this plane x-y intersecting the outer surface of head 5.
  • the cutter l3 removes from the wall of head 5 the portion extending from the secant plane x-y and the outer lateral surface of the head.
  • a notch 15 of a width varying as a function of the distance from said secant plane x-y to the axis of rod 1 is obtained, and the smaller said distance, the greater said width.
  • FIG. 7d it will be seen that by performing three elementary milling steps in three secant planes such as x-y forming an equilateral triangle, three claws 16 cut in the lateral wall of head 5 are obtained at a relative angular spacing of Thus, a three-claw bezel is obtained very easily and rapidly as shown diagrammatically in FIG. 7e.
  • FIGS. 8a, 8b and 8c illustrate diagrammatically a modified form of embodiment of the milling operation wherein the rod 1 is still kept stationary in a vertical position while a vertical movement of translation is applied to the horizontal axis 14 of rotation of the milling cutter 13.
  • FIG. 8d illustrates diagrammatically the three-claw bezel obtained through this operation.
  • the metal rod 1 in which the bezel is turned and cut is constantly clamped in a rotary head-stock (not shown).
  • a considerable degree of precision is obtained in the positioning and centering of rod 1, so that the end product, i.e. the bezel, is characterized by a high degree of precision and finish.
  • FIG. 9 illustrates a bezel 17 obtained from a head 5 (FIG. 3) of cylindro-conical configuration, which has three triangular claws 16 formed therein.
  • FIG. illustrates a bezel 18 obtained from a cylindro-conical head 8 and comprising four claws 16 of rectangular configuration.
  • FIG. 11 shows a bezel 19 obtained from a biconical head 9 and comprising six claws 16.
  • FIG. 12 shows another bezel 20 obtained from a biconical head 10 and comprising six claws 16.
  • FIG. 13 shows a bezel 21 obtained fron a cylindrical head 11 having a curved lower portion and comprising six rectangular claws 16, the notches formed between these claws having a rounded bottom.
  • FIG. 14 illustrates a different bezel 22 obtained from a cylindrical head 12 by milling four secant planes disposed at a relative angular spacing of and forming a square base 23 having disposed at each corner a claw 16 for setting precious stones or the like.
  • Method of manufacturing bezels for setting precious stones or gems from a cylindrical stock rod which comprises the steps of drilling an axial blind bore into the front face of the rod to form a recess adapted to receive the precious stone, turning the outer surface of the rod in order to form in the area of said recess a hollow head having a maximum outer diameter substantially equal to the rod diameter, and a solid stem adjacent to said head and having a diameter smaller than that of said rod, cutting by milling in the lateral wall of said hollow head longitudinal open notches opening into said front face and forming therebetween claws adapted to set the precious stone, axially drilling said stem of small diameter, and cutting said stem from the remaining portion of said rod.

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  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Processing Of Stones Or Stones Resemblance Materials (AREA)
US00224492A 1966-04-28 1972-02-08 Method of making bezels for setting precious stones Expired - Lifetime US3751795A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR59538A FR1506317A (fr) 1966-04-28 1966-04-28 Procédé de sertissage de pierres précieuses, dispositif pour la mise en oeuvre de ce procédé et produits résultant de l'application du procédé
FR78730A FR1505450A (fr) 1966-10-04 1966-10-04 Procédé pour le sertissage en série de pierres précieuses, dispositif pour la mise en oeuvre de ce procédé et produits résultants

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US3751795A true US3751795A (en) 1973-08-14

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US00224492A Expired - Lifetime US3751795A (en) 1966-04-28 1972-02-08 Method of making bezels for setting precious stones

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US (1) US3751795A (de)
DE (1) DE1557601B2 (de)
GB (1) GB1183253A (de)

Cited By (15)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4443919A (en) * 1981-08-05 1984-04-24 Michael Colello Methods for setting stones and tools for performing such methods
US4543698A (en) * 1980-07-11 1985-10-01 Jean-Louis Chancel Setting for a precious stone and a method of mounting the stone in the setting
US4750245A (en) * 1986-10-17 1988-06-14 Alexandros Moussouris Gemstone mounting apparatus and method
US5100046A (en) * 1989-04-21 1992-03-31 Kihn S.A.R.L. Monobloc points for grooved rails and method for making same
EP0763336A2 (de) * 1995-09-15 1997-03-19 UNO-A-ERRE ITALIA S.p.A. Gerät zur schnellen Anbringung von Dekoration- oder Edelsteinen oder anderen Gegenständen auf laminaren Trägern
US6038751A (en) * 1997-08-14 2000-03-21 Alfred Butler, Inc. Method of setting stones by using a jewelry prong head for accommodating various size stones
US6149354A (en) * 1998-12-16 2000-11-21 Walters; Jayce P. Tool and method for cutting a seat in the setting of stones in jewelry
US6619378B1 (en) 2001-05-01 2003-09-16 Findings Incorporated Lost core method of molding gemstone seats
US20030226374A1 (en) * 2002-03-21 2003-12-11 Select Jewelry, Inc. Article of jewelry
US20060185391A1 (en) * 2005-02-18 2006-08-24 Beth Golove Finger rings with interchangeable or movable settings and attachable charms
US20070068196A1 (en) * 2002-03-21 2007-03-29 Select Jewelry, Inc. Article of jewelry
US20100088874A1 (en) * 2007-09-04 2010-04-15 Ex-Cell-O Gmbh Method for manufacturing a ball cage of a joint
WO2011155940A1 (en) * 2010-06-10 2011-12-15 Joseph Mardkha Ring with markings for setting gemstones
US8567065B2 (en) 2010-06-10 2013-10-29 Joseph Mardkha Method of augmenting a ring
US8677624B2 (en) 2011-12-07 2014-03-25 Joseph Mardkha Ring with outer markings/segments for setting gemstones

Families Citing this family (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE3510200A1 (de) * 1985-03-21 1986-09-25 Anorthe 5407 Boppard Witt Pave-chaton-fassung
JPH0628007Y2 (ja) * 1987-04-14 1994-08-03 吉田工業株式会社 止具の装飾体
US4936115A (en) * 1988-05-17 1990-06-26 Zuri Mesica Gem setting
US5218839A (en) * 1992-08-25 1993-06-15 Unigem International Jewelry setting
US5475910A (en) * 1993-09-28 1995-12-19 Yamamoto; Katsumi Jewel setting method
DE102015111107A1 (de) * 2015-07-09 2017-01-12 Henry Sauter Schmuckstück

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1157598A (en) * 1915-02-01 1915-10-19 J J Sommer And Co Method of forming settings for precious stones, &c.
US1839909A (en) * 1929-10-28 1932-01-05 Jr Albert J Weatherhead Method of producing pipe couplings
US1935494A (en) * 1930-03-20 1933-11-14 Herman O West Plunger for hypodermic syringes and the like
US3261072A (en) * 1963-12-04 1966-07-19 Stanley Joseph Jewel setting
US3457954A (en) * 1965-05-21 1969-07-29 Carl Nyberg Valve member having plural flow openings

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1157598A (en) * 1915-02-01 1915-10-19 J J Sommer And Co Method of forming settings for precious stones, &c.
US1839909A (en) * 1929-10-28 1932-01-05 Jr Albert J Weatherhead Method of producing pipe couplings
US1935494A (en) * 1930-03-20 1933-11-14 Herman O West Plunger for hypodermic syringes and the like
US3261072A (en) * 1963-12-04 1966-07-19 Stanley Joseph Jewel setting
US3457954A (en) * 1965-05-21 1969-07-29 Carl Nyberg Valve member having plural flow openings

Cited By (26)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4543698A (en) * 1980-07-11 1985-10-01 Jean-Louis Chancel Setting for a precious stone and a method of mounting the stone in the setting
US4443919A (en) * 1981-08-05 1984-04-24 Michael Colello Methods for setting stones and tools for performing such methods
US4750245A (en) * 1986-10-17 1988-06-14 Alexandros Moussouris Gemstone mounting apparatus and method
US5100046A (en) * 1989-04-21 1992-03-31 Kihn S.A.R.L. Monobloc points for grooved rails and method for making same
EP0763336A2 (de) * 1995-09-15 1997-03-19 UNO-A-ERRE ITALIA S.p.A. Gerät zur schnellen Anbringung von Dekoration- oder Edelsteinen oder anderen Gegenständen auf laminaren Trägern
EP0763336A3 (de) * 1995-09-15 1997-11-12 UNO-A-ERRE ITALIA S.p.A. Gerät zur schnellen Anbringung von Dekoration- oder Edelsteinen oder anderen Gegenständen auf laminaren Trägern
US6038751A (en) * 1997-08-14 2000-03-21 Alfred Butler, Inc. Method of setting stones by using a jewelry prong head for accommodating various size stones
US6149354A (en) * 1998-12-16 2000-11-21 Walters; Jayce P. Tool and method for cutting a seat in the setting of stones in jewelry
US6279436B1 (en) 1998-12-16 2001-08-28 Jayce P. Walters Method for cutting a seat in the setting of stones in jewelry
US6619378B1 (en) 2001-05-01 2003-09-16 Findings Incorporated Lost core method of molding gemstone seats
US20050092021A1 (en) * 2002-03-21 2005-05-05 Select Jewelry, Inc. Article of jewelry
US20070068196A1 (en) * 2002-03-21 2007-03-29 Select Jewelry, Inc. Article of jewelry
US20030226374A1 (en) * 2002-03-21 2003-12-11 Select Jewelry, Inc. Article of jewelry
US7861555B2 (en) * 2002-03-21 2011-01-04 Select Jewelry, Inc. Article of jewelry
US6862898B2 (en) * 2002-03-21 2005-03-08 Select Jewelry, Inc. Article of jewelry
US7140200B2 (en) * 2002-03-21 2006-11-28 Select Jewelry Inc. Article of jewelry
US7222503B2 (en) 2005-02-18 2007-05-29 Beth Golove Ring with interchangeable settings and attachable charms and methods for their use
US20060185392A1 (en) * 2005-02-18 2006-08-24 Golove Beth E Ring with interchangeable settings and attachable charms and methods for their use
US7322212B2 (en) 2005-02-18 2008-01-29 Beth Golove Finger rings with interchangeable or movable settings and attachable charms
US20090100869A1 (en) * 2005-02-18 2009-04-23 Beth Golove Jewelry with Interchangeable Settings and Attachable Charms and Methods for Their Use
US20060185391A1 (en) * 2005-02-18 2006-08-24 Beth Golove Finger rings with interchangeable or movable settings and attachable charms
US7937966B2 (en) 2005-02-18 2011-05-10 Beth Glove Jewelry with interchangeable settings and attachable charms and methods for their use
US20100088874A1 (en) * 2007-09-04 2010-04-15 Ex-Cell-O Gmbh Method for manufacturing a ball cage of a joint
WO2011155940A1 (en) * 2010-06-10 2011-12-15 Joseph Mardkha Ring with markings for setting gemstones
US8567065B2 (en) 2010-06-10 2013-10-29 Joseph Mardkha Method of augmenting a ring
US8677624B2 (en) 2011-12-07 2014-03-25 Joseph Mardkha Ring with outer markings/segments for setting gemstones

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Publication number Publication date
GB1183253A (en) 1970-03-04
DE1557601B2 (de) 1973-05-24
DE1557601A1 (de) 1970-04-02

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