Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
  • D06P7/00—Dyeing or printing processes combined with mechanical treatment
• • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
  • B65—CONVEYING; PACKING; STORING; HANDLING THIN OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL
  • B65D—CONTAINERS FOR STORAGE OR TRANSPORT OF ARTICLES OR MATERIALS, e.g. BAGS, BARRELS, BOTTLES, BOXES, CANS, CARTONS, CRATES, DRUMS, JARS, TANKS, HOPPERS, FORWARDING CONTAINERS; ACCESSORIES, CLOSURES, OR FITTINGS THEREFOR; PACKAGING ELEMENTS; PACKAGES
  • B65D83/00—Containers or packages with special means for dispensing contents
  • B65D83/14—Containers or packages with special means for dispensing contents for delivery of liquid or semi-liquid contents by internal gaseous pressure, i.e. aerosol containers comprising propellant for a product delivered by a propellant
  • B65D83/38—Details of the container body
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
  • D06C29/00—Finishing or dressing, of textile fabrics, not provided for in the preceding groups
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
  • D06L1/00—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods
  • D06L1/12—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods using aqueous solvents
  • D06L1/14—De-sizing
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
  • D06M13/52—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment combined with mechanical treatment
  • D06M13/525—Embossing; Calendering; Pressing
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
  • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
  • D06P3/34—Material containing ester groups
  • D06P3/40—Cellulose acetate
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06Q—DECORATING TEXTILES
  • D06Q1/00—Decorating textiles
  • D06Q1/08—Decorating textiles by fixation of mechanical effects, e.g. calendering, embossing or Chintz effects, using chemical means
• • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
  • Y10S—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10S8/00—Bleaching and dyeing; fluid treatment and chemical modification of textiles and fibers
  • Y10S8/916—Natural fiber dyeing
  • Y10S8/918—Cellulose textile

Definitions

• ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE A process for finishing secondary cellulose acetate woven and knitted fabrics to impart wash and wear properties thereto comprising embossing said fabric on at least one s1de at an elevated pressure and at a temperature of between about 80 to 150 C., washing, dry heating the embossed fabric at a temperature of between about 180 to 200 C. for from about 20 to 30 seconds, coloring, and steam fixing the embossed and dry heated fabric for from about 3 to minutes at a temperature of from about 115 to 125 C., all steps in said process being conducted under conditions wherein the fabric is not stretched.
• the present invention relates to crease-resistant woven and knitted fabrics, which retain their shape after wearing and washing.
• These woven and knitted fabrics consist mainly of filaments or threads made from secondary cellulose acetate. They may also contain some amounts of metal threads or textiles other than cellulose acetate, such as wool or nylon. Ready-made goods made of the fabrics of the invention are easily handled and have an appearance so satisfactory that they need no ironing and may be reused immediately after washing and drying.
• the object of the present invention is essentially creaseproof woven and knitted fabrics made of secondary cellulose acetate showing the properties above described and methods of producing such fabrics. Further objects of the invention are apparent from the following detailed description.
• the crude woven fabric is embossed on one or both sides, preferably one, to obtain preferably a finely grained apearance or pattern.
• the temperature is maintained between about 80 and 150 C. and the pressure is elevated to from about 5 to 12 tons.
• the woven fabric is washed and desized by treatment with water, which may contain a small amount of synthetic detergent, at a moderately hot temperature of 3,447,884 Patented June 3, 1969 ice roughly 40 to 90 C. and preferably at about to C. Depending on the size used (e.g., glue or starch size) temperatures as low as 40 C. are sufficient.
• the water is separated from the fabric, preferably under subatmospheric pressure (vacuum) and not by pressing off, squeezing, or centrifuging.
• the material subsequently is dried, e.g., by hot air without stretching.
• the woven fabric is heated for about 20 to 30 seconds, preferably by hot air, under free shrink conditions by, for example, passing it over a stenter in slack condition (i.e., the web is fed faster than it is withdrawn) to a temperature of between about 180 to 190 C.
• the so-treated woven fabric is, in a conventional manner, dyed or printed and, if printed, normally steamed for stabilizing the color. It can then be washed and dried and finished with common finishing agents, and may then be re-dried with moderate steaming.
• steps (a) and (b) are reversed, i.e., step (b) is carried out before (a).
• the pressure during the embossing step may be somewhat lower.
• Step (a) as outlined above is conducted on conventional embossing machines having a normal working width of between about to 200 cm. depending upon the width of the fabric treated.
• the broad temperature utilized is maintained between 80 and 150 C. and preferably between and C.
• the elevated pressure utilized is substantially dependent upon the working width of the particular embossing machine utilized and ranges broadly from between about 5 to 12 tons with the preferred range being between 7 and 11 tons. As the working width of the machine increases the elevated pressure also generally increases with the ranges being as follows: 100 cm. working width, 5 to 10 tons with 7 to 8 preferred; cm. working width, 6 to 11 tons with 8 to 9 prefered and 200 cm. working width, 7 to 12 tons with 9 to 10 preferred.
• the elevated pressures which can be utilized increase linearally as the Working width increases. Generally, the elevated pressure utilized is somewhat higher with woven fabrics than with knitted.
• the woven or knitted fabrics are embossed using standard embossing rolls. There is no industry standard by which such rolls are classified, the choice normally being made by visual inspection.
• the shape of the pattern on the embossing rolls is not critical and may be of any nature; geometric or non-geometric, square, triangular, irregular, etc.
• the pattern itself is preferably finely grained but there is no upper limit on the coarseness of the pattern except practical considerations.
• the pattern will be sufliciently fine such that after completion of all the process steps the pattern will be nearly unrecognizable on the finished fabric. Needless to say, if desired for special effects, the embossing pattern may be so course as to leave a readily discernable pattern on the finished fabric.
• step (a) is essentially to increase the final wash and wear properties in the finished fabric and to impart dimensional stability (with respect to shrinkage) so as to minimize shrinkage in the subsequent process steps.
• the step appears to stabilize the thread and to impart a slight, superficial hardening or corification to the thread.
• the coarseness of the embossing pattern is at least sufficient to impart the dimensional stability above mentioned. This also insures the increase in final wash and wear properties.
• the fabric may be embossed on one or both sides (i.e., one or both rollers may be engraved or patterned) and preferably in the case of woven fabrics one side is embossed while with knitted fabrics it is possible to emboss on one, two or even on neither side.
• the upper embossing roll is normally heated and patterned while the lower roll is an unheated, unpatterned roll of, for example, rubber or cotton.
• the lower roll With coarse patterns, the lower roll usually bears a pattern corresponding with the upper roll (though still unheated) and the fabric is embossed on both sides in a single pass through the rolls.
• Step (1)) above is essentially a conventional washing and, where necessary, desizing operation (knitted fabrics are normally not sized).
• the washing is designed to remove impurities remaining from the weaving or knitting operation.
• the use of vacuum to remove the water insures no stretching of the fabric.
• step (a) normally precedes step (b) while with knitted fabrics generally the opposite is true.
• knitted fabrics tend to shrink more than woven fabrics (up to 10 percent during washing) and the shrinkage tends to minimize the effects of embossing in step (a).
• step (b) may also be conducted before step (a) if desired, particularly where the woven fabric has a low mechanical stability since after washing the threads are better able to stand the subsequent embossing step.
• step (c) is between about 180 C. and 190 C., a slight exceeding of this temperature is not detrimental. Generally the tempera? ture may range from 180 to 200 C.
• This thermal fixing of the woven or knitted fabrics is carried out in general by dry-heating the woven or knitted fabric being under slack condition. For example, the fabrics may be fed to a stenter (frame) in such a way that they do not undergo stretching even after fixing. This feeding under slack condition must be applied in both the longitudinal as well as the transverse direction of the woven or knitted fabric.
• Step (d) is a conventional dyeing or printing step known per se in the art.
• Step ((1) normally follows step (c) particularly where a dyed or printed pattern is to be imparted to the fabric.
• step (c) since step involves high temperatures, the dyestuffs may not be resistant to such high heat and may be adversely effected.
• step (d) may come before step (0) since shrinkage during step (c) will have no effect on the colored fabric and the dyestuff will resist the high heat. With patterned fabric the shrinkage may not be uniform and the pattern may become distorted.
• Step (e) is conducted by contacting the fabric with steam as dry as possible for a period of about 3 to 5 minutes. If the fabric is treated for less than 3 minutes, some effect will be obtained but at less than 1.5 minutes there is no worthwhile increase in the wash and wear properties of the finished fabric. If the dry steam contact is longer than 5 minutes the effect is obtained but the longer steaming does not improve the effect and hence becomes uneconomical.
• the temperature of the steam during treatment is between about 115 and 125 C., e.g., 120 C. This step imparts the final dimensional stability to the fabric and improves the wash and wear properties.
• temperatures at which the fabric is treated during processing are temperatures at which the fabric is treated during processing (e.g. to C. in step (e) refer to steam temperature).
• the new process gives to woven and knitted fabrics a smoother and more pleasant touch then with the process of copending concurrently filed patent application Ser. No. 549,826 (a continuation-in-part of US. Ser. No. 274,329).
• This new process gives a further advantage as in the case of knitted fabrics the embossing can be omitted entirely without greatly affecting the final result of the process.
• This improved process is of special advantage in the case of knitted fabrics as embossing sometimes is connected with difficulties, e.g., by rolling of the edges of the knitted fabrics, thus causing conveying difiiculties in the finishing treatment. Normally, with woven fabrics, embossing on only one side is preferred.
• Twill fabrics e.g., and fabrics with knop yarns may be embossed only on the back side at an approximate temperature of 90 C. to 100 C. in order to maintain their pattern.
• woven fabrics with tabby (calico) weave may be handled.
• the fabric is ready for tailoring. It has been found that the retention of dimensions of the thus treated fabric is at least about i1%.
• the properties of the thus treated woven or knitted fabrics are particularly favorable if these consist of filaments with fibrils of low count gauge, e.g., filaments of 75 denier with 50 fibrils or denier with 100 fibrils, and if their weave is loose, e.g., a flotation weave.
• warp and/or weft filaments may be used having an irregular titre. This is illustrated by the following:
• the filament leaving the spinning nozzle has a constant thickness if the filament is subjected to a constant tension. In this manner the filament is regularly reduced in thickness with regard to the diameter of the spinning nozzle. If the tension is periodically relaxed and increased, the fabric obtained from such filaments shows a regular pattern.
• the fabrics used in the present process are made of filaments which when woven or knitted do not lead to an undesired regular pattern of the fabric, but to a linen like texture. Fabrils are used which have, e. g., an average titre of 4 denier and have their changes in titre arranged at irregular intervals.
• the pattern of the woven fabric may be advantageously infiuenced by using woven fabrics with a dense set and bound alternately by flotation and shortly tied filaments as, e.g., in the case of a twill weave.
• secondary acetate is obviously meant the partially hydrolyzed full acetate which is acetone-soluble as opposed to the full acetate normally referred to as triacetate.
• EXAMPLE 1 A woven fabric is treated.
• the warp filaments are filaments of secondary cellulose acetate 75 denier with 50 individual fibrils and 190 turns per meter.
• the weft filaments are filaments of secondary cellulose acetate of 150 denier with 75 individual fibrils and 80 turns per meter.
• the woven fabric is in the condition of a tabby weave, with very close set, i.e., 73 filaments per cm. in the warp and 30 filaments per cm. in the weft.
• the woven fabric is embossed on one side at 120 C. and at a pressure of 9 tons on a 150 cm. working width machine with a fine crystal like pattern.
• the woven fabric is wetted and desized in book form up to a temperature of 75 to 80 C. using a bath containing soap and ammonia. Thereafter, the liquid is drawn off by vacuum and the fabric dried on a short-loop-drier.
• the woven fabric is put without additional stretching on a pinstenter and fixed at a temperature of 185 to 190 C. for 25 to 30 seconds under slack condition.
• the fabric is then printed with dispersed dyestuffs, steamed in a star streamer, carefully rinsed in conventional manner and dried on a short-loop-drier. Subsequently, the fabric is subjected to fixing with steam as dry as possible for 4 minutes at 120 C. in a finish decatizing machine. Thereafter the fixed fabric is dried and passed without additional stretching through a breaking machine for modifying the touch of the woven fabric.
• the same treatment may be applied to plain woven fabrics.
• the woven fabric thus treated shows excellent wash and wear properties and a touch like natural silk.
• the woven fabric shows a serge-weave.
• the filaments used for warp are of secondary cellulose acetate 75 denier with 50 fibrils.
• the filaments used for weft are of secondary cellulose acetate 150 denier with 32fibrils.
• the number of filaments in the warp is 72/cm. and in the weft 30/cm.
• This woven fabric is treated as described in Example 1 with the exception that the embossing is carried out with a medium crystal pattern at a temperature of 130 C. and a pressure of 7 tons for a calendering machine with a width of 100 cm.
• the obtained woven fabric has excellent touch and gives crease resistance and is especially suited for tailored dresses.
• EXAMPLE 3 Woven fabric is used wherein the warp threads are of secondary cellulose acetate of 75 denier with 50 individual fibrils.
• the weft threads are also of secondary cellulose acetate of 150 denier with 100 individual fibrils.
• the number of threads in the warp is 73/cm. and in the weft 30/cm.
• the fabric is treated by embossing a finely crystalline pattern on one side with a 200 cm. working width at 10 tons pressure and 125 C. temperature.
• the so embossed fabric is Washed and desized in the usual manner and then contacted under slack conditions with hot air at 190 to 195 C. for 20 seconds.
• the fabric is then dyed with conventional dyestuffs being careful not to stretch or crease during the dyeing operation. After the dyeing, the fabric is rinsed and dried. The fabric is then contacted with dry steam at C. for 3 minutes while in a slack condition.
• EXAMPLE 4 Woven fabric is used having Warp threads of 100 denier with 24 individual fibrils having irregular titre and weft threads of 150 denier with 32 individual fibrils of an irregular titre.
• the number of warp threads is 38/cm. and weft 28/ cm.
• the fabric is treated as in Example 3 except that embossing is conducted on a 150 cm. working width machine at C. and an elevated pressure of 8 tons and the hot air treatment is at 180 C. for 25 seconds.
• the resulting fabric shows excellent wash and wear properties.
• the web is a knitted fabric (material derived from a warp loom in the sequence of L 1-0-4-5, L 1-001) which consists of yarns of secondary cellulose acetate. It is washed for 30 minutes at a temperature of 40 C. on a winch vat with a synthetic detergent (2 g./l. of water) for the sake of preliminary cleaning. Thereafter, the web is carefully rinsed, the liquid drawn otf and the knitted fabric then dried on a frame under slack condition and by setting the width given by the frame measurements. The washed fabric is then embossed on one side with a fine grain pattern at a pressure of 9 tons in a cm. working width machine at 120 C.
• a knitted fabric material derived from a warp loom in the sequence of L 1-0-4-5, L 1-001
• the embossed knitted fabric is then fixed on the pinstenter under free shrink conditions at a temperature of to C. for 25 to 30 seconds.
• the fabric is then printed with dispersed dyestuffs by screen printing process, thereafter dried, steamed by star steamer during 30 minutes at 1 at pressure, carefully rinsed, moderately soaped, again rinsed, liquid drawn off and dried.
• the knitted web is then brightened (revived) with washfast products and then dried on a frame under slack condition and by setting the given width. Finally, the knitted web is fixed for 4 minutes with steam as dry as possible at 120 C. in a finish decatizing machine.
• the same treatment may be applied to plain knitted fabrics.
• the fabric has excellent wash and wear properties.
• EXAMPLE 6 The web is a knitted fabric which consists of yarns of secondary cellulose acetate. This knitted fabric is treated as described in Example 5 with the exception that after a preliminary cleaning, a one side embossing is carried out at a temperature of 130 C. and a pressure of 8 tons for a calendering machine with a width of 150 cm. The hot air treatment is conducted at a temperature of 185-190 C. for a period of 25 seconds. The obtained knitted fabric has excellent touch and very good crease resistance.
• Example 7 The fabric of Example 5 is processed in the same manner as Example 5 except that the knitted fabric is not embossed. The obtained fabric receives excellent touch and crease resistance properties.
• EXAMPLE 8 Woven twill fabric was embossed on one side with a medium crystal pattern at a pressure of 7 tons, a temperature of 120 to 125 C. on a 100 cm. working width machine.
• the embossed fabric was desized at a temperature of 80 C., rinsed, the water removed by vacuum and dried at a temperature of 90 C.
• the fabric was treated at 185 C. with hot air for 20 seconds in a slack condition. The fabric was then dyed and finally treated with dry steam for 4 minutes at 125 C.
• the wash and wear fabric produced according to the present invention is unique and has properties unobtainable by other known processes.
• the dimensional stability and wrinklefree characteristics are superior. While the exact nature of the physical changes in the fabric are not clear it has been established that certain physical characteristics are changed by the process according to the invention.
• dry heating the embossed fabric is essentially a dry condition at a temperature of between about 180 to 200 C. for from about 20 to 30 seconds
• step (a) the fabric is embossed with embossing rolls on at least one side at an elevated pressure which linearly increases with an increase in the working width of the embossing rolls and is equivalent to about 7 to 11 tons at a Working width of 100 to 200 cm. and at a temperautre of from about 120 to C.
• embossing is conducted at a temperature of between 120 and 130 C.

Landscapes

• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
• Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
• Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
• Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
• Coloring (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Publications (1)

Family

ID=25971692

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (6)

Cited By (1)

Citations (2)

• 0
  • BE BE651295D patent/BE651295A/xx unknown
• 1963
  • 1963-08-13 DE DE19631460546 patent/DE1460546A1/de active Pending
• 1964
  • 1964-07-31 AT AT660764A patent/AT280930B/de not_active IP Right Cessation
  • 1964-08-03 CH CH1012664D patent/CH1012664A4/xx unknown
  • 1964-08-03 CH CH1770967D patent/CH1770967A4/xx unknown
  • 1964-08-04 GB GB31580/64A patent/GB1074707A/en not_active Expired
• 1966
  • 1966-05-13 US US549824A patent/US3447884A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime

Patent Citations (2)

Also Published As

Similar Documents