US3403433A - Method of producing pill resistant polyester fiber containing fabrics - Google Patents
Method of producing pill resistant polyester fiber containing fabrics Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- US3403433A US3403433A US586583A US58658366A US3403433A US 3403433 A US3403433 A US 3403433A US 586583 A US586583 A US 586583A US 58658366 A US58658366 A US 58658366A US 3403433 A US3403433 A US 3403433A
- Authority
- US
- United States
- Prior art keywords
- fabric
- polyester
- cotton
- fibers
- pilling
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Lifetime
Links
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title description 153
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 title description 62
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 title description 40
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title description 32
- 239000006187 pill Substances 0.000 title description 4
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 27
- 241000219146 Gossypium Species 0.000 description 26
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 25
- 238000009998 heat setting Methods 0.000 description 24
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 description 23
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 description 23
- 230000001680 brushing effect Effects 0.000 description 21
- 238000009999 singeing Methods 0.000 description 19
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 description 17
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 description 16
- -1 polyethylene Polymers 0.000 description 15
- 239000003518 caustics Substances 0.000 description 12
- 238000003490 calendering Methods 0.000 description 11
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 11
- 230000000452 restraining effect Effects 0.000 description 11
- 239000000523 sample Substances 0.000 description 11
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 10
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 9
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 9
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 9
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 8
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 description 7
- ZEYUSQVGRCPBPG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4,5-dihydroxy-1,3-bis(hydroxymethyl)imidazolidin-2-one Chemical compound OCN1C(O)C(O)N(CO)C1=O ZEYUSQVGRCPBPG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 229910000831 Steel Inorganic materials 0.000 description 5
- 238000009990 desizing Methods 0.000 description 5
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 5
- 238000002474 experimental method Methods 0.000 description 5
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 description 5
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 5
- 239000010959 steel Substances 0.000 description 5
- KAKZBPTYRLMSJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Butadiene Chemical compound C=CC=C KAKZBPTYRLMSJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- OKKJLVBELUTLKV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Methanol Chemical class OC OKKJLVBELUTLKV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 235000014676 Phragmites communis Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 239000004698 Polyethylene Substances 0.000 description 4
- PPBRXRYQALVLMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Styrene Chemical compound C=CC1=CC=CC=C1 PPBRXRYQALVLMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000003054 catalyst Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000000314 lubricant Substances 0.000 description 4
- 238000005517 mercerization Methods 0.000 description 4
- 229920000573 polyethylene Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 238000009991 scouring Methods 0.000 description 4
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 3
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 3
- 239000002979 fabric softener Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000013508 migration Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000005012 migration Effects 0.000 description 3
- 150000007524 organic acids Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 239000004627 regenerated cellulose Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 3
- IJGRMHOSHXDMSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Atomic nitrogen Chemical compound N#N IJGRMHOSHXDMSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- TWRXJAOTZQYOKJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L Magnesium chloride Chemical compound [Mg+2].[Cl-].[Cl-] TWRXJAOTZQYOKJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 2
- 229920000877 Melamine resin Polymers 0.000 description 2
- VGGLHLAESQEWCR-UHFFFAOYSA-N N-(hydroxymethyl)urea Chemical compound NC(=O)NCO VGGLHLAESQEWCR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Terephthalic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=C(C(O)=O)C=C1 KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- XSQUKJJJFZCRTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Urea Chemical compound NC(N)=O XSQUKJJJFZCRTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 241000863480 Vinca Species 0.000 description 2
- MBHRHUJRKGNOKX-UHFFFAOYSA-N [(4,6-diamino-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl)amino]methanol Chemical compound NC1=NC(N)=NC(NCO)=N1 MBHRHUJRKGNOKX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N adipic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCC(O)=O WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 238000004061 bleaching Methods 0.000 description 2
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 description 2
- 238000010276 construction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 230000002596 correlated effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000010026 decatizing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000982 direct dye Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000986 disperse dye Substances 0.000 description 2
- 150000002334 glycols Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- QQVIHTHCMHWDBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N isophthalic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC(C(O)=O)=C1 QQVIHTHCMHWDBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 150000002978 peroxides Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-N sebacic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229910001220 stainless steel Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 239000010935 stainless steel Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000725 suspension Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920001187 thermosetting polymer Polymers 0.000 description 2
- GPRLSGONYQIRFK-MNYXATJNSA-N triton Chemical compound [3H+] GPRLSGONYQIRFK-MNYXATJNSA-N 0.000 description 2
- RSWGJHLUYNHPMX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,4a-dimethyl-7-propan-2-yl-2,3,4,4b,5,6,10,10a-octahydrophenanthrene-1-carboxylic acid Chemical compound C12CCC(C(C)C)=CC2=CCC2C1(C)CCCC2(C)C(O)=O RSWGJHLUYNHPMX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OEPOKWHJYJXUGD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(3-phenylmethoxyphenyl)-1,3-thiazole-4-carbaldehyde Chemical compound O=CC1=CSC(C=2C=C(OCC=3C=CC=CC=3)C=CC=2)=N1 OEPOKWHJYJXUGD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- CBECDWUDYQOTSW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylbut-3-enal Chemical compound CCC(C=C)C=O CBECDWUDYQOTSW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 244000198134 Agave sisalana Species 0.000 description 1
- 240000008564 Boehmeria nivea Species 0.000 description 1
- 244000025254 Cannabis sativa Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000012766 Cannabis sativa ssp. sativa var. sativa Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000012765 Cannabis sativa ssp. sativa var. spontanea Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 240000000491 Corchorus aestuans Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000011777 Corchorus aestuans Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000010862 Corchorus capsularis Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- IMROMDMJAWUWLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethenol Chemical compound OC=C IMROMDMJAWUWLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 240000000047 Gossypium barbadense Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000009429 Gossypium barbadense Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 244000043261 Hevea brasiliensis Species 0.000 description 1
- 239000004640 Melamine resin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000006679 Mentha X verticillata Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000002899 Mentha suaveolens Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000001636 Mentha x rotundifolia Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000010931 Mesua ferrea Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000005704 Olneya tesota Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 240000007909 Prosopis juliflora Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000008198 Prosopis juliflora Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- XTXRWKRVRITETP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Vinyl acetate Chemical compound CC(=O)OC=C XTXRWKRVRITETP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- BZHJMEDXRYGGRV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Vinyl chloride Chemical compound ClC=C BZHJMEDXRYGGRV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000007513 acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000001252 acrylic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000001361 adipic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000011037 adipic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 150000001408 amides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000000129 anionic group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 230000033228 biological regulation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000009120 camo Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004202 carbamide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013877 carbamide Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000005607 chanvre indien Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000084 colloidal system Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000004122 cyclic group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 238000000354 decomposition reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000593 degrading effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001419 dependent effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003822 epoxy resin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000000675 fabric finishing Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009962 finishing (textile) Methods 0.000 description 1
- IVJISJACKSSFGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N formaldehyde;1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triamine Chemical compound O=C.NC1=NC(N)=NC(N)=N1 IVJISJACKSSFGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- YIBPLYRWHCQZEB-UHFFFAOYSA-N formaldehyde;propan-2-one Chemical compound O=C.CC(C)=O YIBPLYRWHCQZEB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LNEPOXFFQSENCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N haloperidol Chemical compound C1CC(O)(C=2C=CC(Cl)=CC=2)CCN1CCCC(=O)C1=CC=C(F)C=C1 LNEPOXFFQSENCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000011487 hemp Substances 0.000 description 1
- YAMHXTCMCPHKLN-UHFFFAOYSA-N imidazolidin-2-one Chemical compound O=C1NCCN1 YAMHXTCMCPHKLN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000005470 impregnation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005461 lubrication Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910001629 magnesium chloride Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 description 1
- WSFSSNUMVMOOMR-NJFSPNSNSA-N methanone Chemical compound O=[14CH2] WSFSSNUMVMOOMR-NJFSPNSNSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000002480 mineral oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010446 mineral oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- JTHNLKXLWOXOQK-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-propyl vinyl ketone Natural products CCCC(=O)C=C JTHNLKXLWOXOQK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920003052 natural elastomer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001194 natural rubber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000006386 neutralization reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910052757 nitrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- SNQQPOLDUKLAAF-UHFFFAOYSA-N nonylphenol Chemical class CCCCCCCCCC1=CC=CC=C1O SNQQPOLDUKLAAF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000014593 oils and fats Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- ISWSIDIOOBJBQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N phenol group Chemical group C1(=CC=CC=C1)O ISWSIDIOOBJBQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920000647 polyepoxide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000002028 premature Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000003825 pressing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000376 reactant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011342 resin composition Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000007858 starting material Substances 0.000 description 1
- KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-L terephthalate(2-) Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)C1=CC=C(C([O-])=O)C=C1 KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 229920005992 thermoplastic resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- ZHXAZZQXWJJBHA-UHFFFAOYSA-N triphenylbismuthane Chemical compound C1=CC=CC=C1[Bi](C=1C=CC=CC=1)C1=CC=CC=C1 ZHXAZZQXWJJBHA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/39—Aldehyde resins; Ketone resins; Polyacetals
- D06M15/423—Amino-aldehyde resins
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/38—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/52—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/53—Cooling; Steaming or heating, e.g. in fluidised beds; with molten metals
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M23/00—Treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, characterised by the process
Definitions
- United States Patent M ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE A method of producing pill resistant fabrics from polyester fiber containing blended yarns comprising restraining the fabric and then heating the restrained fabric whereby the polyester fiber components shrink and migrate to the center of the yarns making up the fabric.
- This invention which is a divisional application of copending application Ser. No. 371,768 filed June 1, 1964, now abandoned, relates to the production of pill-free, soft, brushed polyester/cellulosic and polyester/wool blend fabrics.
- polyester/cellulosic and polyester/wool blends have been gaining substantial commercial importance, especially such fabrics containing wool or wherein the cellulosic is cotton.
- the low covering power of typical polyester/ cotton and polyester/wool blend fabrics emphasizes the unevenness of the yarn while all-cotton and all-wool fabrics with yarns of equivalent evenness appear more even due to the surface cover of the cotton or wool fibers.
- polyester/cellulosic and polyester/wool blend fabrics having a soft brushed surface and good surface cover.
- polyester fiber in staple form is used in polyester/ cellulosic and polyester/wool blend fabrics
- a serious problem with regard to pilling of the polyester at the surface of the fabric may be encountered.
- pilling of course, substantially lessens the desirability of the fabric.
- the pilling is unpleasing in appearance; at times, large pills will shed from the surface of the fabric, which, of course, is undesirably messy.
- the cellulosic fibers to be used in the blend often will be in staple form, too. This is because the most common of the cellulosic fibers, cotton, occurs only in staple form and because staple fibers, as compared with continuous filaments, generally have a softer hand, softer surface, warmer feeling and are found by the consumer to be more aesthetically pleasing.
- any polyester fibers remaining at the surface of the heat-set fabric by the use of singeing.
- Singeing generally involves the exposure of the surfaces of the fabric to a flame, whereby the polyester fibers remaining near the surface of the fabric are selectively burned away because the polyester fibers have a lower decomposition point than the cellulosic or wool fibers.
- any other source of sufiicient heat could be used, such as heated rolls or plates past which the fabric would move either near the surface thereof or in contact therewith.
- the fabric is brushed for the purpose of further raising cellulosic or wool to the surface thereof.
- a brushing softener is applied to the fabric.
- the brushing softener may comprise any of the following, alone or in a mixture: anionic, nonionic and cationic stearic compounds, silicone oils, sulfated oils and fats, alkyl quaternaries or solutions, emulsions or suspensions of'any of the preceding substances, mineral oil emulsions and polyethylene emulsions and the like.
- steam is applied to the fabric during the brushing operation for the purpose of effecting lubrication between the bristle surfaces and fabric surface.
- a finishing resin may be applied with the softener.
- Such resins may be applied as a solid, melt, solution, suspension or emulsion and, if thermosetting, the unreacted or partially reacted components of the resin may be so applied and subsequently cured.
- thermosetting finishing resins or reactant resin components which may be applied are methylol urea, methylated methylol urea, methylol cyclic ethylene urea, methylol melamine, methylated methylol melamine, polyesters, phenolic formaldehyde, acetone formaldehyde, epoxy resins, melamine resin acid colloid, dirnethylolpropyleneurea, dimethylol-uron-dimethylether and methylol triazone.
- thermoplastic resins which may be applied are butadiene/styrene and butadiene/acrylonitrile copolymers and polymers and copolymers of acrylate esters, vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, vinyl butyral, vinyl chloride, vinylidene chloride, styrene, ethylene, propylene, linear ester condensates, linear amide condensates, natural rubber and the like.
- calendering is preferred to calender after singeing and brushing because calendering before brushing flattens the fabric and hinders good pile formation in brushing.
- results achieved in terms of pile formation and pilling performance if the calendering is performed before brushing can be improved by low pressure calendering (e.g., silk calendering) subsequent to the initial calendering and before the brushing.
- Silk calendering is generally performed by passing the fabric in sequence between the two nips of a three-bowl calender, the top and bottom bowl (roll) surfaces of which are 3 usually paper and the center bowl (roll) surface of which is usually metal.
- the resin finish is then cured.
- a conventional loop dryer is particularly suitable.
- any other type oven or dryer which would provide adequate dwell time e.g., a conventional roller curing oven
- Temperature and dwell time are, of course, dependent on the particular resin finish.
- conventional resin finishes are used, conventional curing times and temperatures for these resins are well known in the art.
- the fabric may be conventionally pressed and/ or decated or semi-decated.
- the above referred to restrained heat setting is carried out at from about 325 to about 425 F., preferably from about 350 to 415 F., for a duration of from about 300 to 5 seconds, preferably from about 60 to about seconds (temperature and time being correlated inversely).
- the above referred to singeing preferably is carried out at a flame temperature of about 2000 to about 4000 F. for a duration of from about 0.02 second to 0.08 second (temperature and time being correlated inversely).
- Hinneken boil off and prescouring are conventional and may be performed at conventional temperatures and durations, which, of course depend upon the specific fabric treated.
- the extent of drying of the fabric, subsequent to padding is preferably to a moisture content of from about 1 to preferably from about 2 to about 10%, whereby, the fabric is suitably soft for the subsequent brushing.
- the curing of the finish on the fabric and the decating are performed under conventional conditions.
- polyester refers to polyesters of glycols and dibasic acids, particularly glycols of the series HO(CH ),,OH where n is an integer within the range of 2-10, and the dibasic acid is one or more of terephthalic acid, isophthalic acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid, dibenzoic acid and the like.
- cellulosic includes cotton, regenerated cellulose, cross-linked regenerated cellulose derivatives, sisal, hemp, jute, linen, ramie, tampico and the like.
- EXAMPLE I A sample of viyella flannel made of 26/1s (i.e., yarn made from one end having a cotton count of 26) (19 turns/inch S-twist) of 65% 1.5 denier x 1 /2" polyethylene terephthalate staple fibers and 35% combed Pima cotton both in the Warp and in the filling and having a loom count of 74 ends/inch x 70 picks/inch, the reed width being 50.5" with 37 reed dents per inch and 2 ends per dent and the weave being a 2 x 2 twill, is treated as follows:
- Aerotex resin M3 (melamine formaldehyde condensate resin) 50
- Catalyst MX magnesium chloride
- Ahcovel G cationic softener-fatty carbamide
- Triton X-lOO ethoxylated nonylphenol 1 (H) Drying of the fabric on a tenter clip frame with hot air at 250 F., leaving approximately 5% moisture content;
- EXAMPLE III A sample of lawn made of 70/ ls of 65% polyethylene terephthalate staple and 35% cotton both in the warp and in the filling and having a greige construction of 88 ends/inch x 76 picks/inch, the greige width being 40" is treated as follows:
- Treatment of the fabric with hot strong caustic solution may be used as an additional and independent anti-pilling measure.
- Such treatment tends to decrease pilling by partly degrading the polyester yarn whereby the polyester is weakened so that polyester fibers at the yarn surfaces, when rubbed, gradually break away from the surfaces rather than form bunches or balls of tangled fibers on the surfaces (which bunches or balls are commonly known as pills)
- incorporating a caustic treatment into the present selective coring processes gives only a marginal improvement with regard to the brush and sponge pilling test (ASTM Dl37559*T Method C), results which generally cannot justify the concomitant strength loss; also, excellent random tumble pilling test (ASTM 1375) results, comparable to those achieved by the use of caustic treatment with the present selective coring processes, are achieved without the use of caustic and concomitant strength loss.
- Random tumble pilling test (15/30/60 minuteS (ASTM-D1375) 515/ 5/515 Brush and sponge pilling test (ASTM-D- 137559T method C) 2 2-3 Samples of all fabrics to be treated by the processes of the present invention may be cross dyed (e.g., cotton 1 to 3% in excess of the pre-heat set dimension during heat setting.
- the lateral restraining may be within the same range as the lateral restraining used for normally shrinkable polyester, but more latitude of choice is permissible: specifically, the fabric may be allowed to shrink up to about 10% below its pre-heat setting lateral dimension during heat setting while being laterally restrained against further shrinkage; thus, even under such conditions, it is properly said that the fabric is laterally restrained against shrinkage.
- the lateral restraint during heat setting preferably is such that the percentage to which the lateral dimension of the fabric during heat-setting is maintained above or allowed to decrease below the pre-heat setting lateral dimension is within the range of from about 3% above to about 5% below the pre-heat setting lateral dimension.
- Table I shows the influence of heat setting with minor stretching, after dyeing (experiment Numbers 1 to 5) and before dyeing (experiment Number 6), followed by singeing alone or with other process steps in sequence, as listed, in accordance with the present invention, upon the pilling resistant properties of polyester/ cotton blend yarns:
- restrained heat setting means heat setting of the fabric while it is laterally restrained against shrinkage. Restraining may be accomplished by use of a tenter frame (pin or clip or any other type), pinch rolls or any other conventional means for laterally restraining fabric.
- the lateral restraining during heat setting constitute maintaining the fabric at its initial (i.e., pre-heat setting) lateral dimension or at lateral dimension of up to about 5% in excess thereof; preferably, the lateral dimension of the fabric is maintained at about It is thus apparent that a highly shrinkable polyestercontaining blend will tend to demonstrate greater pilling resistance than an identically processed normally shrinkable polyester-containing blend.
- Highly shrinkable polyester means polyester filaments which have not been conventionally heat set during their manufacture and thus will shrink in boiling water substantially more than the 10-l2% which is typical of conventionally heat set, i.e., normally shrinkable, polyester.
- Table II shows the effect of shrink-proofing ("Sanforize process) preceded or not by mercerization on pilling performance.
- the fabrics tested in each of these experiments are oxfords each having a warp of 88 ends/inch of 50/ ls of 30 turns/inch Z-twist 35/ polyethylene terephthalate/cotton yarn.
- px. means picks/inch
- P/ C means polyester/ cotton blend yarn.
- B & S means 12 minute duration Brush & Sponge Test and RT means 30 minute duration Random Tumble test.
- the headings Original” and Washed mean, respectively, that the fabric was not washed after being processed and before being tested and that the fabric was so washed.
- the fabric processing steps are, of course, listed inchronological order.
- each fabric in each experiment was heat set while laterally restrained against shrinkage at 415 F. for 20 seconds. Each singeing and resingeing was performed at an Industrial Heat Engineering Singer Setting of Flame 6, Speed 10.
- Table III shows the effect of mercerization on pilling performance.
- the mercerization consisted of caustic impregnation (4852 TW. concentration) of the fabric on a pad, removal of excess caustic by squeezing, holding the fabric under filling tension on a tenter clip frame and partially washing out the caustic from the fabric while under tension, and completing of washing of the fabric in a 6-box open width washer with neutralization of the fabric in the last box.
- each fabric was heat set at 400 F. for seconds while laterally restrained against shrinkage, brushed two times on each side with a soft steel bristle brush roll and singed at an Industrial Heat Engineering Singer Setting of Flame 6, Speed 10.
- the fabric tested is a gabardine having a warp of 132 ends/inch and a fill of 72 picks/inch each of ls of Z-twisted 65/ polyethylene terephthalate/ cotton yarn.
- Table IV sets forth pilling and strength data for the fabric produced in each of the Examples I to IV, above.
- Method of producing soft, pilling-resistant fabric of blend yarn comprising polyester staple fibers and fibers selected from the group consisting of cellulosics. and wool comprising the steps of restraining the fabric and heating said restrained fabric whereby the polyester staple fibers shrink and migrate to the center of the yarn.
- Method of producing soft, pilling resistant fabric of blend yarn comprising polyester fibers and fibers selected from the group consisting of cellulosics and wool comprising the steps of restraining the fabric, heating said restrained fabric whereby the polyester staple fibers shrink and migrate to the center of the yarn, applying an aqueous composition to said fabric, drying said aqueous composition containing fabric to a moisture content of from about 1 to about 10% based on the weight of the dry fabric, applying lubricant to said dried fabric thereby to facilitate the subsequent raising of the selected fibers, and brushing said lubricant-containing fabric thereby to raise additional selected fibers to the surface thereof.
- aqueous composition comprises finishing resin and brushing softener.
- heating step is at a temperature of from about 325 to about 425 F.
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Description
United States Patent M ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE A method of producing pill resistant fabrics from polyester fiber containing blended yarns comprising restraining the fabric and then heating the restrained fabric whereby the polyester fiber components shrink and migrate to the center of the yarns making up the fabric.
This invention, which is a divisional application of copending application Ser. No. 371,768 filed June 1, 1964, now abandoned, relates to the production of pill-free, soft, brushed polyester/cellulosic and polyester/wool blend fabrics.
Fabrics of polyester/cellulosic and polyester/wool blends have been gaining substantial commercial importance, especially such fabrics containing wool or wherein the cellulosic is cotton. However, the low covering power of typical polyester/ cotton and polyester/wool blend fabrics emphasizes the unevenness of the yarn while all-cotton and all-wool fabrics with yarns of equivalent evenness appear more even due to the surface cover of the cotton or wool fibers.
It is accordingly an object of this invention to improve the surface cover of polyester/cellulosic and polyester/ wool blend fabrics.
It is also an object of this invention to provide polyester/cellulosic and polyester/wool blend fabrics having a soft brushed surface and good surface cover.
When polyester fiber in staple form is used in polyester/ cellulosic and polyester/wool blend fabrics, a serious problem with regard to pilling of the polyester at the surface of the fabric may be encountered. Such pilling, of course, substantially lessens the desirability of the fabric. The pilling is unpleasing in appearance; at times, large pills will shed from the surface of the fabric, which, of course, is undesirably messy.
Thus, it is a further object of this invention to produce soft, pilling-resistant fabrics of blends comprising polyester staple fibers and cellulosic or wool fibers.
The cellulosic fibers to be used in the blend often will be in staple form, too. This is because the most common of the cellulosic fibers, cotton, occurs only in staple form and because staple fibers, as compared with continuous filaments, generally have a softer hand, softer surface, warmer feeling and are found by the consumer to be more aesthetically pleasing.
Accordingly, it is yet another object of this invention to produce soft pilling-resistant fabrics of blends comprising polyester and cellulosic staple fibers.
Other objects of this invention will be apparent from the following detailed description and claims.
In accordance with one aspect of this invention, there .is provided a method of producing soft, pilling-resistant 3,403,433 Patented Oct. 1, 1968 because in subsequent wet processing, such as dyeing, the polyester fibers remain relatively stable while the cellulosic or wool shrinks substantially, thereby offsetting some of the coring effect obtained. The term coring effect, of course, refers to the selective shrinkage and migration of the polyester fibers in the blend to the center of the yarn. The fabric thus produced will be referred to hereinafter in the specification and claims as a cored yarn fabric. For the same reason that it is preferred to avoid dyeing of the cored yarn fabric, it is also preferred to avoid mercerization or Sanforization of such fabric. The above-mentioned restraining and heating of the restrained fabric will hereinafter be referred to as restrained heat setting.
In another aspect of this invention, it is preferred to remove any polyester fibers remaining at the surface of the heat-set fabric by the use of singeing. Singeing generally involves the exposure of the surfaces of the fabric to a flame, whereby the polyester fibers remaining near the surface of the fabric are selectively burned away because the polyester fibers have a lower decomposition point than the cellulosic or wool fibers. Of course, any other source of sufiicient heat could be used, such as heated rolls or plates past which the fabric would move either near the surface thereof or in contact therewith.
In another aspect of this invention, after the singeing operation, if employed, the fabric is brushed for the purpose of further raising cellulosic or wool to the surface thereof. Preferably after the singeing operation, but prior to the brushing operation, a brushing softener is applied to the fabric. The brushing softener may comprise any of the following, alone or in a mixture: anionic, nonionic and cationic stearic compounds, silicone oils, sulfated oils and fats, alkyl quaternaries or solutions, emulsions or suspensions of'any of the preceding substances, mineral oil emulsions and polyethylene emulsions and the like. Preferably, steam is applied to the fabric during the brushing operation for the purpose of effecting lubrication between the bristle surfaces and fabric surface.
It is preferred to apply the softener alone for best brushed pile formation. However, a finishing resin may be applied with the softener. Such resins may be applied as a solid, melt, solution, suspension or emulsion and, if thermosetting, the unreacted or partially reacted components of the resin may be so applied and subsequently cured. Typical thermosetting finishing resins or reactant resin components which may be applied are methylol urea, methylated methylol urea, methylol cyclic ethylene urea, methylol melamine, methylated methylol melamine, polyesters, phenolic formaldehyde, acetone formaldehyde, epoxy resins, melamine resin acid colloid, dirnethylolpropyleneurea, dimethylol-uron-dimethylether and methylol triazone. Typical thermoplastic resins which may be applied are butadiene/styrene and butadiene/acrylonitrile copolymers and polymers and copolymers of acrylate esters, vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, vinyl butyral, vinyl chloride, vinylidene chloride, styrene, ethylene, propylene, linear ester condensates, linear amide condensates, natural rubber and the like.
If it is desired to incorporate calendering in the fabric finishing operations, it is preferred to calender after singeing and brushing because calendering before brushing flattens the fabric and hinders good pile formation in brushing. However, the results achieved in terms of pile formation and pilling performance if the calendering is performed before brushing can be improved by low pressure calendering (e.g., silk calendering) subsequent to the initial calendering and before the brushing. Silk calendering is generally performed by passing the fabric in sequence between the two nips of a three-bowl calender, the top and bottom bowl (roll) surfaces of which are 3 usually paper and the center bowl (roll) surface of which is usually metal.
The resin finish is then cured. For this purpose, a conventional loop dryer is particularly suitable. However, any other type oven or dryer which would provide adequate dwell time (e.g., a conventional roller curing oven) would also be satisfactory. Temperature and dwell time are, of course, dependent on the particular resin finish. However, since conventional resin finishes are used, conventional curing times and temperatures for these resins are well known in the art.
Subsequent to all the above steps, the fabric may be conventionally pressed and/ or decated or semi-decated.
The above referred to restrained heat setting is carried out at from about 325 to about 425 F., preferably from about 350 to 415 F., for a duration of from about 300 to 5 seconds, preferably from about 60 to about seconds (temperature and time being correlated inversely).
The above referred to singeing preferably is carried out at a flame temperature of about 2000 to about 4000 F. for a duration of from about 0.02 second to 0.08 second (temperature and time being correlated inversely).
Hinneken boil off and prescouring are conventional and may be performed at conventional temperatures and durations, which, of course depend upon the specific fabric treated.
The extent of drying of the fabric, subsequent to padding, is preferably to a moisture content of from about 1 to preferably from about 2 to about 10%, whereby, the fabric is suitably soft for the subsequent brushing.
The curing of the finish on the fabric and the decating are performed under conventional conditions.
The term polyester as used in the specification and claims refers to polyesters of glycols and dibasic acids, particularly glycols of the series HO(CH ),,OH where n is an integer within the range of 2-10, and the dibasic acid is one or more of terephthalic acid, isophthalic acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid, dibenzoic acid and the like.
The term cellulosic includes cotton, regenerated cellulose, cross-linked regenerated cellulose derivatives, sisal, hemp, jute, linen, ramie, tampico and the like.
It is not absolutely necessary to use a tenter frame or other restraint during the drying; the major purpose of such restraint is to control the final fabric dimensions. Whether or not the fabric is restrained during drying has no noticeable effect on the results of the subsequent heatsetting operation. The drying temperature is not critical; however, generally temperatures not in excess of about 250 F. are used in order to avoid any premature coring.
The following examples further illustrate the present invention:
EXAMPLE I A sample of viyella flannel made of 26/1s (i.e., yarn made from one end having a cotton count of 26) (19 turns/inch S-twist) of 65% 1.5 denier x 1 /2" polyethylene terephthalate staple fibers and 35% combed Pima cotton both in the Warp and in the filling and having a loom count of 74 ends/inch x 70 picks/inch, the reed width being 50.5" with 37 reed dents per inch and 2 ends per dent and the weave being a 2 x 2 twill, is treated as follows:
(A) Hinneken boil oil. of the fabric at 200 F. with prescouring boxes at 120 F.;
(B) Desizing and scouring of the fabric in a beck;
(C) Union dyeing of the fabric in a beck to a periwinkle shade, using disperse dye with carrier for the polyester and fixable direct dyes for the cotton;
(D) Drying of the fabric with hot air at 250 F.;
(E) Heat setting of the fabric while laterally restrained against shrinkage on a Famatex tenter pin frame at 400 F. for 20 seconds, holding the dyed width (dyed width is the width of the fabric in a completely relaxed state after dyeing and subsequent drying; alternatively, dyed width will be referred to as pre-heat set lateral dimension);
4 (F) Thorough singeing of the fabric; (G) Padding of the following resin finish and fabric softener mixture onto the fabric:
Grams/liter Permafresh LF (dimethyloldihydroxyethylene urea) 60 Catalyst W (organic acid complex sold by Sun Chemical Company, Warwick Division) 12 Moropol 700 (nitrogen-free nonionic polyethylene emulsion) 15 Buffer DCY (dicyandiamid) 4 (H) Drying of the fabric on a tenter clip frame with hot air at 250 F., leaving approximately 5% moisture content;
(I) Brushing of the fabric three times on each side on soft steel bristle brush roll with an open steam pipe attached through which steam is applied to the fabric as it is brushed;
(J) Loop curing of the fabric at 315 F. for four minutes;
(K) Semi-decating of the fabric by the use of a semidecator, with alternate steam and vacuum cycles of from 10 to 60 seconds each.
EXAMPLE II A sample of hopsacking made of 16/1s (15.5 turns per inchZ twist) of 55% 3.0 denier x 2" semi-du1l polyethylene terephthalate staple and 45% 3.0 denier x 2" semi-dull Corval cross-linked regenerated cellulose) both in the warp and in the filling (but the filling being package dyed black) and having a loop count of 72 ends/inch X 54 picks/inch, the reed width being 50" with 36 reed dents per inch and 2 ends per dent and the weave being a 2 x 2 basket weave is treated as follows:
(A) Hinneken boil off of the fabric at 200 F. 'with prescouring boxes at F.;
(B) Desizing and securing of the fabric in a beck;
(C) Dyeing of warp yarns to ironwood (a medium tan shade) union using dye carrier for the polyester;
(D) Drying the fabric with hot air at 250 F. to a dyed width of 48";
(E) Heat setting of the fabric on Famatex tenter pin frame at 400 F., for 20 seconds, holding the dyed width;
(F) Thorough singeing of the fabric at a cotton setting on an Industrial Heat Engineering Singer of Flame 6, Speed 10;
(G) Pad-ding of the following resin finish and fabric softener onto the fabric:
Grams/liter Aerotex resin M3 (melamine formaldehyde condensate resin) 50 Catalyst MX (magnesium chloride) 15 Ahcovel G (cationic softener-fatty carbamide) 15 Triton X-lOO (ethoxylated nonylphenol) 1 (H) Drying of the fabric on a tenter clip frame with hot air at 250 F., leaving approximately 5% moisture content;
(I) Brushing of the fabric three times on each side on soft steel bristle brush roll with an open steam pipe attached through which steam is applied to the fabric as it is brushed;
(J) Loop curing of the fabric at 320 F. for four minutes;
(K) Silk calendering of the fabric at 5 tons total pressure through both nips of a three-bowl silk calender, the top and bottom roll surfaces of which are paper and the middle roll surface of which is stainless steel;
(L) Pressing of the fabric on a rotary press at setting 35. (This is a number in a range of 0 to 60 indicating about medium pressure. It is a regulation of the distance between a stationary pan and a turning roll. The temperature is constant at about 280 F.)
(M) Decating of the fabric.
EXAMPLE III A sample of lawn made of 70/ ls of 65% polyethylene terephthalate staple and 35% cotton both in the warp and in the filling and having a greige construction of 88 ends/inch x 76 picks/inch, the greige width being 40" is treated as follows:
(A) Desizing and scouring of the fabric in a beck (a lawn is not such a fabric construction as would tend to crack if not relaxed first; this type fabric may or may not be boiled off; as a matter of convenience, it was not; for any particular fabric, whether or not a Hinneken boil off is to be performed is a matter of choice);
(B) Bleaching of the fabric with peroxide in a beck to remove motes;
(C) Dyeing of the fabric in a beck to light union pink shade (using a dye carrier for the polyester);
(D) Tenter clip frame drying of the fabric at 37" (1" over dyed wet width) with hot air at 250 F.;
(E) Heat setting of the fabric on Famatex tenter pin frame at 415 F. for 15 seconds, holding the 37" width;
(F) Singeing of the fabric at a cotton setting on an Industrial Heat Engineering Singer of Flame 6, Speed (G) Silk calendering of the fabric at 5 tons total pressure through both nips of a three-bowl silk calender, the top and bottom roll surfaces of which are paper and the middle roll surface of which is stainless steel;
(H) Padding of the following resin finish and fabric softener onto the fabric:
Grams/liter Permafresh LF (dimethyloldihydroxyethylene urea) 60 Catalyst W (organic acid complex) 12 Moropol 700 (nitrogen free nonionic polyethylene emulsion) 15 (I) Drying of the fabric on a tenter pin frame with hot air at 250 F., leaving approximately 5% moisture content;
(I) Brushing of the fabric three times on each side on soft steel bristle brush roll with an open steam pipe attached through which steam is applied to the fabric as it is brushed;
(K) Loop curing of the fabric at 315 F. for four minutes;
(L) Decatizing of the fabric.
EXAMPLE IV A sample of oxford made of 42/ ls (with 24 turns per inch-Z twist) in the warp and 15/ ls (with 14 turns per inch-Z twist) in the filling, both of 65% polyethylene terephthalate staple and 35% cotton, the greige width being 48.5 and the weave being a 2 x 1 plain weave is treated as follows:
(A) Desizing and scouring of the fabric in a beck;
(B) Bleaching of the fabric with peroxide in a beck to remove motes;
(C) Dyeing of the fabric in a beck to a mint green union using dye carrier for the polyester; the dyed width is forty-four inches;
(D) Drying of the fabric on a tenter pin frame at the dyed width with hot air at 250 F.;
(E) Calendering of the fabric by passing each side once through a hydraulic calender operating at 280 F. and 30 tons total pressure to a fabric width of 43% inches;
(F) Heat setting of the fabric on a tenter pin frame at 415 F. for 15 seconds while held at a forty-five inch width.
(G) Thorough singeing of the fabric at a cotton setting on an Industrial Heat Engineering Singer of Flame 6, Speed 10;
6 (H) Padding of the fabric with the following resin finish:
(I) Drying of the fabric on a tenter pin frame with hot air at 250 to a width of 45% inches;
(J) Loop curing of the fabric at 320 F. for three minutes to a width of 44 /2 inches;
(K) Brushing of the fabric three times on each side on soft steel bristle brush roll with an open steam pipe attached through which steam is applied to the fabric as it is brushed;
(L) Decatizing of the fabric.
Treatment of the fabric with hot strong caustic solution (15 g./liter) (preferably prior to dyeing so as not to effect the dye and preferably prior to the heat setting step so as not to reverse the coring effect due to the greater shrinkage of cotton than polyester when treated with caustic solution) may be used as an additional and independent anti-pilling measure. Such treatment tends to decrease pilling by partly degrading the polyester yarn whereby the polyester is weakened so that polyester fibers at the yarn surfaces, when rubbed, gradually break away from the surfaces rather than form bunches or balls of tangled fibers on the surfaces (which bunches or balls are commonly known as pills) However, it is generally found that incorporating a caustic treatment into the present selective coring processes gives only a marginal improvement with regard to the brush and sponge pilling test (ASTM Dl37559*T Method C), results which generally cannot justify the concomitant strength loss; also, excellent random tumble pilling test (ASTM 1375) results, comparable to those achieved by the use of caustic treatment with the present selective coring processes, are achieved without the use of caustic and concomitant strength loss.
The following example is illustrative of the effect of an anti-pilling caustic treatment:
EXAMPLE V A sample of the same fabric that is the starting material in Example I is treated as follows:
(A) Hinneken boil off of the fabric at 200 F. with prescouring boxes at 120 F.;
(B) Desizing and scouring in a winch;
(C) Thirty yards of the sample is taken off at this stage and caustic treated on a winch for fifteen minutes with an aqueous sodium hydroxide solution of 15 grams/liter concentration and at a temperature of C. Both this thirty-yard portion of the sample and the balance of the sample are treated alike for comparative purposes as follows:
(D) Union dyeing of the fabric in a beck to a periwinkle shade, using disperse dye with carrier for the polyester and fixable direct dyes for the cotton;
(E) Tenter clip frame drying of the fabric with hot air at 250 F.;
(F) Heat setting of the fabric on a tenter pin frame at 400 F. for 20 seconds, holding the dyed width;
(G) Thorough singeing of the fabric;
(H) Padding of the fabric with the following resin composition:
Grams/liter Permafresh LP (dimethyloldihydroxyethylene urea) 60 Catalyst W (organic acid complex) l2 Moropol 700 (nitrogen-free nonionic polyethylene emulsion) 15 Triton X- (ethoxylated nonylphenol) '1 Buffer DCY (dicyandiamid) 4 (I) Drying of the fabric on a tenter clip frame with hot air at 250 F. to a moisture content of 5%;
Property No caustic Caustic Thread count (ends/inch x picks/inch) 84 x 76 84 x 76 Weight (on/yd?) 4. 53 4. 31 Grab tensile strength (1115.) (ASTM-D39- 75 x 65 53 x 36 59) (breaking strength-grab method) Tear strength (lbs.) (ASTM-Dl424-59) (Elmendorf method) 4. 7 x 4. 4 2. 5 x 2. Random tumble pilling test (15/30/60 minuteS (ASTM-D1375) 515/ 5/515 Brush and sponge pilling test (ASTM-D- 137559T method C) 2 2-3 Samples of all fabrics to be treated by the processes of the present invention may be cross dyed (e.g., cotton 1 to 3% in excess of the pre-heat set dimension during heat setting. When the fabric contains highly shrinkable polyester, the lateral restraining may be within the same range as the lateral restraining used for normally shrinkable polyester, but more latitude of choice is permissible: specifically, the fabric may be allowed to shrink up to about 10% below its pre-heat setting lateral dimension during heat setting while being laterally restrained against further shrinkage; thus, even under such conditions, it is properly said that the fabric is laterally restrained against shrinkage. When the fabric contains highly shrinkable polyester, the lateral restraint during heat setting preferably is such that the percentage to which the lateral dimension of the fabric during heat-setting is maintained above or allowed to decrease below the pre-heat setting lateral dimension is within the range of from about 3% above to about 5% below the pre-heat setting lateral dimension.
The following table (Table I) shows the influence of heat setting with minor stretching, after dyeing (experiment Numbers 1 to 5) and before dyeing (experiment Number 6), followed by singeing alone or with other process steps in sequence, as listed, in accordance with the present invention, upon the pilling resistant properties of polyester/ cotton blend yarns:
TABLE I (SS/% polyethlene (SS/35% polyethylene terephthalate/cotton terephthalate/cotton blcnd oxford containing blend oxford containing Experiment Additional fabric processing steps highly Shrinkable normally shrinkable N0, polyethylene terephthalate polyethylene terephthalate fibers fibers Filling 1 Width (in.) Filling 1 Width (in.)
1 Singeing 1 1 46 2 Singeing, padding softener, brushing.. 4 43% 3 47 3-.- Singeiug, padding resin, hot calender- 2 41% 1 44% ing, curing. 4 Singeing, padding resin, hot calender- 2 41% 1 44 ing, curing, brushing. 5 Singeing, silk calendaring, padding 4 42% 1 4 resin, brushing, curing. 6 Singeing, padding softener, brushing 3 44% 2-3 47 1 Brush and sponge, after washing of fabric.
black and polyester orange) to facilitate identification of fiber components and thus determine fiber migration. Comparison of the cross-dyed fabric samples will show the fabric to become darker in color as the polyester yarn is selectively cored and to become still darker in color as residual polyester is signed from the surface and even darker as the cotton (or other black-dyed cellulosic is brushed to the surface; comparison of yarn samples at these various stages will confirm that polyester is selectively cored and removed from the yarn surfaces and that cellulosic is selectively raised to the yarn surface. By dissolving cotton from a sample of the fabric before heat setting and dissolving cotton from another sample of the same fabric after heat setting and by comparison of the polyester shades of the two samples, which shows them to be the same, it is confirmed that the observed shade changes in the blend fabrics upon heat setting are due to selective coring of the polyester rather than heat-induced migration of the dye.
The term restrained heat setting as used in the present specification and claims means heat setting of the fabric while it is laterally restrained against shrinkage. Restraining may be accomplished by use of a tenter frame (pin or clip or any other type), pinch rolls or any other conventional means for laterally restraining fabric. When the fabric contains normally shrinkable polyester, it is preferred that the lateral restraining during heat setting constitute maintaining the fabric at its initial (i.e., pre-heat setting) lateral dimension or at lateral dimension of up to about 5% in excess thereof; preferably, the lateral dimension of the fabric is maintained at about It is thus apparent that a highly shrinkable polyestercontaining blend will tend to demonstrate greater pilling resistance than an identically processed normally shrinkable polyester-containing blend. This apparently is because the coring effect in the former is greater than in the latter yarns. Highly shrinkable polyester means polyester filaments which have not been conventionally heat set during their manufacture and thus will shrink in boiling water substantially more than the 10-l2% which is typical of conventionally heat set, i.e., normally shrinkable, polyester.
The following table (Table II) shows the effect of shrink-proofing ("Sanforize process) preceded or not by mercerization on pilling performance. The fabrics tested in each of these experiments are oxfords each having a warp of 88 ends/inch of 50/ ls of 30 turns/inch Z-twist 35/ polyethylene terephthalate/cotton yarn. Under the heading Filling Yarn, px. means picks/inch and P/ C means polyester/ cotton blend yarn. Under the heading Pilling Test, B & S means 12 minute duration Brush & Sponge Test and RT means 30 minute duration Random Tumble test. The headings Original" and Washed mean, respectively, that the fabric was not washed after being processed and before being tested and that the fabric was so washed. The fabric processing steps are, of course, listed inchronological order.
Prior to the performance of the listed processing steps, each fabric in each experiment was heat set while laterally restrained against shrinkage at 415 F. for 20 seconds. Each singeing and resingeing was performed at an Industrial Heat Engineering Singer Setting of Flame 6, Speed 10.
TABLE II Singed and resin Singed, resin finished Singed, resin finished, Mercerized, singed and finished and shrink-prooied reslnged and shrinkshrink-prooted Filling Yam 1 Pilling test proofed Original Washed Original Washed Original Washed Original Washed 46 px., /1s 65/35% PIC; polyester is 1.5 B & S 2 2 3 3 2 1 1 1 denier x 1 sta is. RT 5 2 5 5 1-3 1 1 5 46 px., 30/2s 50/509 P/C; polyester is 1.5 B & S 3-4 3 3 4 1 2 3 3 denier x 1% stop RT- 5 5 5 5 5 5 H 5 46 px., 1.5/1's (ES/35% P/C; polyester is 3.0 B & 1 2 4 4 1 1 1 1 denier x 1, 4 staple. RT 5 5 5 5 5 5 3 5-4 1 In each fabric, warp yarn is 50/ls 30 turnslinchZ twist, 65/35% PIC.
The following table (Table III) shows the effect of mercerization on pilling performance. The mercerization consisted of caustic impregnation (4852 TW. concentration) of the fabric on a pad, removal of excess caustic by squeezing, holding the fabric under filling tension on a tenter clip frame and partially washing out the caustic from the fabric while under tension, and completing of washing of the fabric in a 6-box open width washer with neutralization of the fabric in the last box. Prior to the steps listed in the table, each fabric was heat set at 400 F. for seconds while laterally restrained against shrinkage, brushed two times on each side with a soft steel bristle brush roll and singed at an Industrial Heat Engineering Singer Setting of Flame 6, Speed 10. In the table, the fabric tested is a gabardine having a warp of 132 ends/inch and a fill of 72 picks/inch each of ls of Z-twisted 65/ polyethylene terephthalate/ cotton yarn.
TABLE III Random tumble Elmendorf Additional processing steps pilling test tear test (lbs.)
30 min. 60 min. Warp Fill Mercerized and finished 4 34 4. 0 2. 9 Finished only 4-5 4 4. 5 2. 8
The following table (Table IV) sets forth pilling and strength data for the fabric produced in each of the Examples I to IV, above.
With the processes of the present invention it is now possible to produce pilling-resistant polyester/cellulosic or polyester/wool fiber flannels, sleepwear lawns, soft oxfords for womens wear, suiting fabrics with an all woollike hand and the like.
It will, of course, be understood that the above exampies and tables are not limitative but merely illustrative of the present invention.
The embodiments of the invention in which an exclusive property or privilege is claimed are defined as follows:
1. Method of producing soft, pilling-resistant fabric of blend yarn comprising polyester staple fibers and fibers selected from the group consisting of cellulosics. and wool comprising the steps of restraining the fabric and heating said restrained fabric whereby the polyester staple fibers shrink and migrate to the center of the yarn.
2. The method of claim 1, wherein said selected fibers comprise a cellulosic.
3. The method of claim 1, wherein said selected fibers comprise wool.
4. The method of claim 2, wherein said cellulosic comprises cotton.
5. The method of claim 1, wherein the fabric is dyed prior to said restraining and heating steps.
6. The method of claim 1, wherein after said restraining and heating steps the fabric is singed so as to remove residual polyester fibers from the surface thereof.
7. The method of claim 6, wherein after the singeing step the fabric is brushed in order to raise additional selected fibers to the surface thereof.
8. The method of claim 1, wherein said heating step is at a temperature in the range of from about 325 to about 425 F.
9. The method of claim 7, wherein lubricant is. incorporated with the fabric thereby to facilitate the raising of the selected fibers.
10. The method of claim 9, wherein moisture is applied to serve as lubricant.
11. The method of claim 10, wherein the moisture application is accomplished by feeding steam through a pipe attachment to the brushes.
12. Method of producing soft, pilling resistant fabric of blend yarn comprising polyester fibers and fibers selected from the group consisting of cellulosics and wool comprising the steps of restraining the fabric, heating said restrained fabric whereby the polyester staple fibers shrink and migrate to the center of the yarn, applying an aqueous composition to said fabric, drying said aqueous composition containing fabric to a moisture content of from about 1 to about 10% based on the weight of the dry fabric, applying lubricant to said dried fabric thereby to facilitate the subsequent raising of the selected fibers, and brushing said lubricant-containing fabric thereby to raise additional selected fibers to the surface thereof.
13. The method of claim 12, wherein said selected fibers comprise a cellulosic.
14. The method of claim 12, wherein said selected fibers comprise wool.
15. The method of claim 13, wherein said cellulosic comprises cotton.
16. The method of claim 12, wherein said aqueous composition comprises brushing softener.
17. The method of claim 12, wherein said aqueous composition comprises finishing resin.
18. The method of claim 12, wherein said aqueous composition comprises finishing resin and brushing softener.
19. The method of claim 12, wherein said heating step is at a temperature of from about 325 to about 425 F.
References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,897,042 7/1959 Heils 57-140 X 3,006,055 10/1961 Chapin 2619 3,060,551 10/ 1962 Bogaty et al. 28--76 X 3,279,163 10/1966 Lulay et a1 57-140 FOREIGN PATENTS 133,874 8/ 1949 Australia. 466,070 6/ 1950 Canada.
LOUIS K. RIMRODT, Primary Examiner.
Priority Applications (5)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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BE664663D BE664663A (en) | 1964-06-01 | 1965-05-28 | |
DE19651460383 DE1460383A1 (en) | 1964-06-01 | 1965-05-29 | Process for making improved textile fabrics |
NL6506880A NL6506880A (en) | 1964-06-01 | 1965-05-31 | |
FR19151A FR1455913A (en) | 1964-06-01 | 1965-06-01 | Improvements to textile fabrics |
US586583A US3403433A (en) | 1964-06-01 | 1966-08-10 | Method of producing pill resistant polyester fiber containing fabrics |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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US37176864A | 1964-06-01 | 1964-06-01 | |
US586583A US3403433A (en) | 1964-06-01 | 1966-08-10 | Method of producing pill resistant polyester fiber containing fabrics |
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US3403433A true US3403433A (en) | 1968-10-01 |
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Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
US586583A Expired - Lifetime US3403433A (en) | 1964-06-01 | 1966-08-10 | Method of producing pill resistant polyester fiber containing fabrics |
Country Status (5)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (1) | US3403433A (en) |
BE (1) | BE664663A (en) |
DE (1) | DE1460383A1 (en) |
FR (1) | FR1455913A (en) |
NL (1) | NL6506880A (en) |
Cited By (9)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US3676906A (en) * | 1967-09-13 | 1972-07-18 | Ici Ltd | Process for making a patterned fabric by using differential shrinkage yarns |
US4485535A (en) * | 1979-05-04 | 1984-12-04 | Toray Industries, Inc. | Methods of manufacturing pile fabric |
US6221488B1 (en) | 1997-10-14 | 2001-04-24 | Wellman, Inc. | Modified polyester with high intrinsic viscosity at moderate strength |
US20130255048A1 (en) * | 2012-03-30 | 2013-10-03 | Deckers Outdoor Corporation | Natural wool pile fabric and method for making wool pile fabric |
US20140013555A1 (en) * | 2012-07-12 | 2014-01-16 | Michael Xu | Method of manufacturing velvet plush and article thereof |
US20150259843A1 (en) * | 2014-03-11 | 2015-09-17 | Welspun India Limited | Natural finish fabric |
US10801139B2 (en) | 2017-01-27 | 2020-10-13 | Deckers Outdoor Corporation | Sheared wool fleece and method for making sheared wool fleece utilizing yarn knitting |
US11591748B2 (en) | 2020-01-14 | 2023-02-28 | Shadow Works, Llc | Heat treated multilayer knitted textile of liquid crystal polymer fibers and modified polyacrylonitrile fibers, and process for making same |
US11713524B2 (en) | 2017-01-27 | 2023-08-01 | Deckers Outdoor Corporation | Sheared wool fleece and method for making sheared wool fleece utilizing yarn knitting |
Citations (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CA466070A (en) * | 1950-06-20 | Bamber Speakman John | Treatment of textile materials | |
US2897042A (en) * | 1955-06-30 | 1959-07-28 | Du Pont | Method for increasing pill resistance and density of blended staple polyethylene terephthalate and cellulosic fabrics by applying specific chemical shrinking agents for the polyethylene terephthalate |
US3006055A (en) * | 1958-02-21 | 1961-10-31 | Du Pont | Process for fulling textile fabrics |
US3060551A (en) * | 1959-08-11 | 1962-10-30 | Bogaty Herman | Mixed fabric with wool surface |
US3279163A (en) * | 1964-01-06 | 1966-10-18 | Du Pont | Pill-resistant yarns |
-
1965
- 1965-05-28 BE BE664663D patent/BE664663A/xx not_active Expired
- 1965-05-29 DE DE19651460383 patent/DE1460383A1/en active Pending
- 1965-05-31 NL NL6506880A patent/NL6506880A/xx unknown
- 1965-06-01 FR FR19151A patent/FR1455913A/en not_active Expired
-
1966
- 1966-08-10 US US586583A patent/US3403433A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
Patent Citations (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CA466070A (en) * | 1950-06-20 | Bamber Speakman John | Treatment of textile materials | |
US2897042A (en) * | 1955-06-30 | 1959-07-28 | Du Pont | Method for increasing pill resistance and density of blended staple polyethylene terephthalate and cellulosic fabrics by applying specific chemical shrinking agents for the polyethylene terephthalate |
US3006055A (en) * | 1958-02-21 | 1961-10-31 | Du Pont | Process for fulling textile fabrics |
US3060551A (en) * | 1959-08-11 | 1962-10-30 | Bogaty Herman | Mixed fabric with wool surface |
US3279163A (en) * | 1964-01-06 | 1966-10-18 | Du Pont | Pill-resistant yarns |
Cited By (14)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US3676906A (en) * | 1967-09-13 | 1972-07-18 | Ici Ltd | Process for making a patterned fabric by using differential shrinkage yarns |
US4485535A (en) * | 1979-05-04 | 1984-12-04 | Toray Industries, Inc. | Methods of manufacturing pile fabric |
US6221488B1 (en) | 1997-10-14 | 2001-04-24 | Wellman, Inc. | Modified polyester with high intrinsic viscosity at moderate strength |
US10287720B2 (en) | 2012-03-30 | 2019-05-14 | Deckers Outdoor Corporation | Natural wool pile fabric and method for making wool pile fabric |
US9212440B2 (en) * | 2012-03-30 | 2015-12-15 | Deckers Outdoor Corporation | Natural wool pile fabric and method for making wool pile fabric |
US20130255048A1 (en) * | 2012-03-30 | 2013-10-03 | Deckers Outdoor Corporation | Natural wool pile fabric and method for making wool pile fabric |
US20140013555A1 (en) * | 2012-07-12 | 2014-01-16 | Michael Xu | Method of manufacturing velvet plush and article thereof |
US9181646B2 (en) * | 2012-07-12 | 2015-11-10 | Chen Feng | Method of manufacturing velvet plush and article thereof |
USRE49640E1 (en) * | 2012-07-12 | 2023-09-05 | Chen Feng | Method of manufacturing velvet plush and article thereof |
US20150259843A1 (en) * | 2014-03-11 | 2015-09-17 | Welspun India Limited | Natural finish fabric |
US9732455B2 (en) * | 2014-03-11 | 2017-08-15 | Welspun India Limited | Natural finish fabric |
US10801139B2 (en) | 2017-01-27 | 2020-10-13 | Deckers Outdoor Corporation | Sheared wool fleece and method for making sheared wool fleece utilizing yarn knitting |
US11713524B2 (en) | 2017-01-27 | 2023-08-01 | Deckers Outdoor Corporation | Sheared wool fleece and method for making sheared wool fleece utilizing yarn knitting |
US11591748B2 (en) | 2020-01-14 | 2023-02-28 | Shadow Works, Llc | Heat treated multilayer knitted textile of liquid crystal polymer fibers and modified polyacrylonitrile fibers, and process for making same |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
DE1460383A1 (en) | 1969-01-30 |
NL6506880A (en) | 1965-12-02 |
FR1455913A (en) | 1966-10-21 |
BE664663A (en) | 1965-11-29 |
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