Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M17/00—Producing multi-layer textile fabrics
  • D06M17/04—Producing multi-layer textile fabrics by applying synthetic resins as adhesives
  • D06M17/06—Polymers of vinyl compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
  • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
  • A41D27/02—Linings
  • A41D27/06—Stiffening-pieces
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M17/00—Producing multi-layer textile fabrics
  • D06M17/04—Producing multi-layer textile fabrics by applying synthetic resins as adhesives
  • D06M17/08—Polyamides polyimides
• • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
  • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
  • Y10T156/00—Adhesive bonding and miscellaneous chemical manufacture
  • Y10T156/10—Methods of surface bonding and/or assembly therefor
  • Y10T156/1089—Methods of surface bonding and/or assembly therefor of discrete laminae to single face of additional lamina
  • Y10T156/109—Embedding of laminae within face of additional laminae
• • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
  • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
  • Y10T156/00—Adhesive bonding and miscellaneous chemical manufacture
  • Y10T156/10—Methods of surface bonding and/or assembly therefor
  • Y10T156/1089—Methods of surface bonding and/or assembly therefor of discrete laminae to single face of additional lamina
  • Y10T156/1092—All laminae planar and face to face
  • Y10T156/1093—All laminae planar and face to face with covering of discrete laminae with additional lamina
• • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
  • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
  • Y10T428/00—Stock material or miscellaneous articles
  • Y10T428/24—Structurally defined web or sheet [e.g., overall dimension, etc.]
  • Y10T428/24802—Discontinuous or differential coating, impregnation or bond [e.g., artwork, printing, retouched photograph, etc.]
  • Y10T428/2481—Discontinuous or differential coating, impregnation or bond [e.g., artwork, printing, retouched photograph, etc.] including layer of mechanically interengaged strands, strand-portions or strand-like strips
• • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
  • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
  • Y10T428/00—Stock material or miscellaneous articles
  • Y10T428/24—Structurally defined web or sheet [e.g., overall dimension, etc.]
  • Y10T428/24802—Discontinuous or differential coating, impregnation or bond [e.g., artwork, printing, retouched photograph, etc.]
  • Y10T428/24826—Spot bonds connect components

Definitions

• This invention relates to interlining material for garment manufacture.
• the front of the jacket is provided with an interlining formed of a fabric usually referred to as the canvas.
• the canvas is used to line the whole of the front of the jacket and is secured in place by permanent stitching around the dege of the front of the jacket and, during making-up, is also secured to the front of the jacket at or near the side seam by basting, which is subsequently removed.
• a canvas when connected with the making up of jackets is a generic term used for a complete interlining in the front of a jacket or coat.
• a canvas of a garment is formed of:
• a lapel reinforcement of linen or silicia a cotton-based fabric or similar material shaped to reinforce the lapel area.
• the canvases are made up in pairs, i.e. One for each front of the coat.
• the canvases are blocked to shape and contour on steam presses designed with a left and right side shape and contour.
• the canvases are basted or sewn to the coat fronts by hand or machine with a long stitch (basting stitch) after the pockets have been sewn into the fronts.
• the canvas now becomes the foundation of the garment.
• the canvas is designed to follow and create a desired silhouette or outline of the coat.
• the canvas is a reinforcement to the cloth front, required to prevent collapse or sag or distortion in any part of the coat front.
• fusible interlining material when employed as a replacement of a conventional canvas, it is not as an exact replica, in either shape or effect, of a conventional canvas aforementioned.
• the fusible interlining is cut exactly in accordance with the front of the coat shape except that the periphery of the canvas is cut to be inside the edge of the facing cloth.
• the fusible interlining is attached to the coat front by a fusing operation, i.e. the coat fronts are laid upon the lower buck or table of a fusing press with the reverse side of the cloth uppermost.
• the fusible interlining is placed on the cloth with the resin side down. Fusing of the two pieces is then carried out under conditions appropriate to the resin coating, the nature of the coated interlining fabric and the facing fabric.
• the front of the jacket is now regarded as canvased.
• the canvased front still requires the attachment of a loose chest assembly, which is intended to act as a shoulder and chest area reinforcement and comprises:
• a conventional canvas controls the front of the garment only indirectly. It hangs behind the front and acts as the support :on which the garment is built up and subsequently its presence behind the front of the jacket gives stability, but this is only achieved indirectly.
• the canvas material is fused to the facing 'fabric a quite different principle is used.
• the front of the jacket no longer consists of a facing cloth alone, but consists of a laminate. It is this laminate as a whole and not the facing cloth 'or the fusible interlining by itself which produces the desired effect. This effect is different from that obtained by a conventional canvas in that 'whilst the conventional canvas only supports the front, the fused canvas actually stabilises and controls the facing fabric which forms the entire front.
• the function of the canvas at the front of a jacket is to provide bulk and moulding to the front of the jacket without at the same time detracting from the normal characteristics of the facing fabric, so that it is essential that interlining material, bonded to the facing fabric, should not stiffen the facing fabric or impart any paper-like effects to it.
• a jacket may be constructed with a fully fused front (that is to say with a canvas secured uniformly over its surface area to the facing fabric by means of a thermoplastic adhesive) providing the fusible interlining material employed in the canvas for bonding directly to the facing fabric has certain characteristics.
• the fabric utilised in making up the canvas must itself have a certain degree of resilience, particularly in the weft direction, and it is therefore conventional to utilise fabrics which employ at least a proportion of yarns of a resilient nature, such as rayon, linen, hair or man-made fibres, such as nylon or terylene.
• a fabric for use in the canvas of a jacket is preferably woven with resilient yarns in the weft, whilst the warp yarns are preferably cotton yarns, so that it can be moulded to shape by steam pressing and at the same time it will have sufficient, but not excessive bulk to prevent sagging or distortion in any part of the jacket front.
• such a fabric will have suffi-cient resilience to retain the desired appearance of the entire jacket front in wear.
• Such a canvas should possess high crease recovery. When measured by the Shirley Institute method the percentage recovery should not be less than 70% in the warp and 80% in the Weft.
• fabrics which are recognized to be suitable for employment in convases in jackets manufactured by conventional methods are suitable for the production of the novel fusible interlining materials of the present application. It is, however, found that, for use with a given facing fabric, a rather lighter base fusible interlining fabric should be employed than 4- would be required for the canvas where traditional methods of manufacture are employed.
• a fusible interlining material suitable for employment in the canvas of a jacket, may be produced by the application to a fabric, having the general characteristics of a conventional canvas fabric, of a thermoplastic adhesive having characteristics of softness and flexibility and applied in a regular pattern of small dots of predetermined size and distribution provided that the application of such dots is effected in the manner hereinafter defined and the base fabric has been stabilised against shrinkage. Whilst it is undesirable to employ a base fabric having zero shrinkage, the shrinkage of the base fabric should be stabilised at a value of 0.5 to 3%, instead of the shrinkage values of 10% and upwards commonly encoutnered in canvas fabrics in the loom state.
• the adhesive is applied in the form of a plastisol which will, after subsequent heat gelling, fuse at a temperature below that obtainable in commercially available garment presses.
• the plastisol should fuse at a temperature below 175 C., the temperature attainable in electric presses used in the garment industry.
• the plastisol it is necessary for the plastisol to be softenable at a temperature below C. to permit the fusible interlining material to be secured to the facing fabric of a jacket by the use of the well-known Hoffman steam press.
• Plastisols which can be applied to the base fabric by a screen printing method can be formed from fine particlesize copolymers of vinyl chloride and vinyl acetate, in which the vinyl acetate contents is within the range of 5 to 15%.
• Such resins after gelling during printing and subsequent bonding of the fusible canvas material to the facing fabric, exhibit satisfactory qualities of pliability and resistance to dry cleaning solvents.
• a fusible interlining for use in a canvas in jacket manufacture comprises a woven base fabric having a weight of 3-7 oz./sq.yd. (102438 gm./ sq. metre) and having its shrink characteristic stabilised to a value of 0.5-3% and having applied thereto spaced dots of a gelled plastisol which softens at a temperature below C., the individual dots having a diameter of 0.7 to 1.5 mm.
• the resin content of said plastisol being constituted by a polyvinylchloride/ polyvinyl acetate copolymer (incorporating from 5 to 15% of polyvinyl acetate) of a particle size finer than 60 microns, said pastisol being applied to the fabric in an amount of 0.7-2 oz./sq. yd. (24-68 gm./sq.
• the woven base fabric having the normal construction of a conventional canvas fabric and having at least a proportion of long staple, high denier resilient fibres in the weft yarns and having 25-45 weft yarns per inch (-18 weft yarns per cm.).
• Other shapes of dots, such as squares or rectangles may be employed in place of round dots, but would be of equivalent areas to the dots whose diameter is above set out.
• the actual maximum temperature for softening the plastisol is given above, it may be said that if the plastisol dots carried on the base fabric, soften within -20 seconds, under a buck of an electric press held at 190 C., the plastisol has a satisfactory softening temperature.
• Viscose scribbled rayon 2 90% viscose rayon, 10% hair.
• the plastisol adhesive was applied to the base fabric by means of a rotary screen printing apparatus in the pattern above specified.
• Example 1 Example 2
• Example 3 Suitable facing fabric... 12 oz. per 15 oz. (340 12 oz. as in linear yard g./sq. m.) of Example 1.
• Laminates prepared from these materials under the specified laminating conditions with a wide range of suiting fabrics showed no visible evidence (blistering or bubbling) of differential shrinkage after immersion for 1 hour in cold water, followed by drying at 40 C.
• a fusible interlining for use as a canvas in garment manufacture comprising a woven base fabric having a weight of 3-7 oz./sq. yd. and having its shrinkage stabilised to a value of 0.53% and having applied thereto spaced dots of a gelled plastisol which softens at a temperature below C. the individual dots having a diameter of 0.7 to 1.5 mm.
• the resin content of said plastisol being constituted by polyvinylchloride/polyvinyl acetate copolymer containing 515% of polyvinyl acetate of a particle size finer than 60 microns, said plastisol being applied to the fabric in an amount of 0.7-2.0 oz./ sq. yd. and in an amount of 1250% of the weight of the woven base fabric, the woven base fabric having at least a proportion of long staple, high denier resilient fibres in the weft yarns and having 25-45 weft yarns per inch.
• ROBERT F. BURNETT Primary Examiner.
• M. A. LIT-MAN Assistant Examiner.

Landscapes

• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Woven Fabrics (AREA)
• Manufacturing Of Multi-Layer Textile Fabrics (AREA)
• Details Of Garments (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Publications (1)

Family

ID=9765122

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (4)

Cited By (19)

Families Citing this family (2)

Citations (4)

• 1966
  • 1966-01-27 GB GB3799/66A patent/GB1170733A/en not_active Expired
• 1967
  • 1967-01-16 US US609499A patent/US3446658A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 1967-01-25 FR FR92420A patent/FR1510310A/fr not_active Expired
  • 1967-01-27 NL NL6701392A patent/NL6701392A/xx unknown

Patent Citations (4)

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