Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
  • D06M11/51—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof
  • D06M11/54—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof with sulfur dioxide; with sulfurous acid or its salts
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M23/00—Treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, characterised by the process

Definitions

• This invention relates to a novel process for modifying the characteristics of keratin fibers and, more particularly, to a process for imparting to fabrics comprising W001 fibers a propensity for subsequent durable setting without the addition, prior to or at the time of setting, of moisture beyond the regain level.
• the polyhydroxy compounds furthermore, provide a fabric having the desired propensity for subsequent durable setting without the addition of moisture beyond the regain level, while simultaneously eliminating any wicking effect as a result of the added material.
• Inorganic reducing agents particularly when utilized in processes involving no washing step prior to the setting of the garment, have also been found to contribute slightly to the wicking effect. Consequently, the wicking effect can be completely eliminated by the use of an organic reducing agent in combination with the low molecular weight polyhydroxy compound.
• Particularly suitable organic reducing agents include the lower alkanolamine sulfites, such as monoethanolamine sulfite and isopropanolamine sulfite, and others containing up to about 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain, such as n-propanolamine sulfite, n-butanolamine sulfite, dimethylbutanolamine sulfite, dimethylhexanolamine sulfite and the like.
• the lower alkanolamine sulfites such as monoethanolamine sulfite and isopropanolamine sulfite
• others containing up to about 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain such as n-propanolamine sulfite, n-butanolamine sulfite, dimethylbutanolamine sulfite, dimethylhexanolamine sulfite and the like.
• reducing agents include the metallic formaldehyde s-ulfoxylates, such as zinc formaldehyde sulfoxylate; alkali metal sulfoxylates, such as sodium formaldehyde sulfoxylate; alkali metal borohydrides, such as sodium borohydride and potassium borohydride; alkali metal sulfites, such as sodium or potassium bisulfite, sulfite, metabisulfite, or hydrosulfite; mercaptan acids, such as thioglycollic acid and its watersoluble salts, such as sodium potassium or ammonium thioglycollate; mercaptans, such as hydrogen sulfide and sodium or potassium hydrosulfide; alkyl mercaptans, such as buty
• the effect of the reducing agent may be subject to some speculation amongst wool experts, it is generally considered that the reducing agent ruptures a plurality of the cystine disulfide linkages present in the wool fibers.
• the concentration of the reducing agent and the period of exposure of the wool fibers to the reducing agent should be controlled so that excessive rupture of these linkages, resulting in excessive degradation of fiber properties, is not permitted to occur. Extreme cases of degradation may be checked visually, in that the wool fiber appears to become gelatinous in nature when an excessive number of the cystine disulfide linkages are ruptured.
• the reducing agent may be applied to the fabric in any desired amount, depending upon the degree of cystine disulfide reduction desired. In general, optimum results are obtained when from about 0.01 to about 20% by Weight of the reducing agent and from about 3 to about 50% by Weight of the polyhydroxy compound are applied to the fabric. Most preferably, from about 2 to about by weight of the reducing agent and from about 5 to about by weight of the polyhydroxy compound are applied to the fabric.
• low molecular Weight polyhydroxy compound a compound containing more than one hydroxy group and having a molecular Weight no greater than about 4,000.
• the most readily available and desirable compound comprises ethylene glycol.
• a particularly preferred group of glycols includes the polyfunctional glycols having terminal hydroxyl groups separated by 2 to 10 methylene groups, including, of course, the preferred ethylene glycol as well as trimethylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, pentamethylene glycol, hexamethylene glycol, heptamethylene glycol, octamethylene glycol, nonamethylene glycol, and deca-methylene glycol, or such glycols as 1,2-propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, diethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol or the like.
• Polyfunctional compounds containing more than 2 hydroxyl groups include the polyfunctional alcohol glycerols such as glycerine, quintenyl glycerin, diethylglycerol and mesicerin, as well as trimethylol ethane, trimethylol butane, tris-hydroxymethyl-amino methane and others.
• Glycol ethers such as the Water-soluble or dispersible polyethylene glycols or polypropylene glycols having molecular weights no greater than about 4,000 also provide satisfactory results when utilized in accordance with this invention.
• the reducing agent and polyhydroxy compound may be added to the fabric in any desired sequence, but in a preferred embodiment, these materials are added to the fabric by impregnating with an aqueous solution containing both the reducing agent and the polyhydroxy compound in the desired proportions.
• the fabric may then be immediately removed from the solution, squeezed to the desired wet pickup, (generally between about 50 and about 150%) and allowed to age for an appropriate time before further processing in accordance with this invention. Since it is desirable that the materials added to the fabric be left in the fabric during all subsequent operations, including garment manufacture and pressing, no specific aging period is required in the practice of this invention, although it is preferred to allow the fabric to stand or age for at least about 10 minutes in its wetted state before continuing subsequent finishing operations.
• the fabric so treated may be dried at levels normally encountered in mill operations, for example, about 200 F. and usually not in excess of 250 F.
• this drying procedure is conducted with the fabric under substantially relaxed conditions, the resulting fabric is characterized by a lower area shrinkage.
• the fabric may be shipped to a garment manufacturer who can cut the fabric as received without conducting the sponging 0r shrinking operations which he would be forced to conduct with conventional fabrics.
• These operations are particularly undesirable to the garment manufacturer since he must not only wet out the fabrics received but must permit the fabric to dry under relaxed conditions to insure that the fabric shrinks in its uncut configuration rather than upon subsequent wetting in the form of garments.
• This sponging or shrinking procedure although a great nuisance to garment manufacturers, heretofore has been an essential step in the manufacture of garments from conventional fabrics.
• the ganment manufacturer may receive the fabric of this invention, cut it into the desired configuration necessary for the production of garments, sew the garments, press the garment without any additional step or treatment required and obtain a garment characterized by durable creases or pleats, as the case may be.
• the fiat areas of the garment manufactured from the fabric of this invention are also characterized by a high degree of crease resistance even under hot, wet conditions.
• the finish :of the fabric prepared in accordance with this invention may be enhanced at the mill level by mild se-midecating techniques, although it should be realized that excessively hot and wet conditions should be avoided in order to retain the maximum propensity for subsequent durable setting.
• the fabrics treated in accordance with this invention should not be subjected to temperatures in excess of 212 F. when it is moist at a level in excess of 20%, unless it is desired to permanently set the fabric in the configuration that it is in at the time it is subjected to these conditions, since the propensity for subsequent durable setting is substantially diminished after long periods :of exposure to such hot, wet conditions.
• a mild semidecating procedure is entirely permissible for improving the finish of fabrics treated in accordance with this invention.
• This mild semidecating technique may be accomplished by wrapping the fabric around a perforated drum through which steam is forced and continuing the application of steam until steam emerges from the outer layer of fabric. Generally, no more than about 30 seconds is required to force the steam through 70 to yards of fabric.
• a highly desirable lustrous finish may be durably set into fabrics treated in accordance with this invention by conducting the decating technique under elevated pressures for longer periods of time.
• This technique known as full-decating, involves wrapping the fabric around a perforated drum as before, but in this technique the steaming is conducted in an autoclave under a constant pressure of up to about 30 pounds per square inch gauge.
• steam is forced through the fabric for about 2 minutes, after which a vacuum is drawn through the fabric for another 10 minutes.
• the prolonged hot-wet conditions are sufficient to set the desirable finish so produced to a high degree of durability to water exposure, such as occurs in conventional sponging, rainfall or the like.
• the fabric may be lightly washed after treatment with either or both of the reducing agents or swelling agents.
• This procedure is not preferred, however, since the washing technique diminishes the propensity in the fabric for subsequent durable setting without the addition of moisture in excess of the regain level.
• This feature of the invention is most readily obtained when the chemicals are left in the fabric at all times up to, but not necessarily after, the setting step.
• this treatment is utilized in a mill operation to obtain a fabric of permanent fiat setting properties, i.e., a fabric which is permanently set in a substantially fiat configuration, the fabric may then be washed to remove any retained chemicals while still retaining its flat characteristics.
• the washing procedure is preferably not utilized.
• While the process of this invention is particularly adapted to fabrics composed essentially of 'keratin fibers, particularly those composed entirely of wool fibers, it is also applicable to fabrics wherein synthetic, natural, or other 'keratin fibers are blended with the wool component.
• Other keratin fibers include mohair, alpaca, cashmere, vicuna, guanaco, camels hair, silk, llama and the like.
• Preferred synthetic fibers for blending with wool fibers include polyamides, such as polyhexamethylene adiparnide; polyesters, such as polyethylene terephthalate; and acrylic fibers, such as acrylonitrile homopolymers or copolymers containing at least about 85% combined acrylonitrile such as acrylonitrile/methacrylate (85/ 15 and cellulosics, such as cellulose acetate and viscose rayon.
• polyamides such as polyhexamethylene adiparnide
• polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate
• acrylic fibers such as acrylonitrile homopolymers or copolymers containing at least about 85% combined acrylonitrile such as acrylonitrile/methacrylate (85/ 15 and cellulosics, such as cellulose acetate and viscose rayon.
• cotton is preferred.
• the process of this invention may be performed on woven, nonwoven, or knitted fabrics of any type, dyed or undyed, provided, of course, that the dyes are stable to the reagents.
• Low temperature treatments with the reducing agents are particularly adapted to the treatment of dyed goods.
• high temperature treatments may not be entirely suitable for treatment of dyed goods since at elevated temperatures the reducing agency may, in some instances, strip some dye from the fabrics.
• Another advantage of the process of this invention is that the fabric may be treated over a wide range of pH.
• a conventional finishing treatment applied to wool fabrics involves the application to the fabric of concentrated sulfuric acid in order to Carbonize cellulosic impurities present in the fabric. After this treatment, from 2 to 3% by weight of sulfuric acid is often left on the fabric.
• fabrics so treated may be subjected to the process of this invention without being neutralized, although, obviously, the fabric may be neutralized if, for some reason, the operator prefers.
• EXAMPLE I An aqueous solution (at a pH of approximately 7.2,) containing 12.8% by weight of a 70% solution of ethanolamine sulfite, 20% ethylene glycol of a commercial grade and 0.1% by weight of a non-rewetting penetrant sold under the tradename of Silwet, is padded onto a worsted flannel fabric swatch -(Excelsior Pendleton-Deering Milliken, Inc., fabric Style 8012) to a 70% wet pickup and aged outside the pad bath for 15 minutes. After drying at 200 F.
• the fabric swatch is folded and pressed on a Hoffman press using a 30 second top steam, 30 second dry cycle.
• the fabric is then opened and immersed for 30 minutes in water at 170 F. containing 0.1% of Surfonic N-95, a wetting agent.
• the creases retained in the fabrics are rated from 1 to 5, 1 being the rating of the crease retained by an untreated fabric and 5 constituting a sharp crease with correspondingly good hand or feel. This procedure is repeated on 9 swatches on other pieces of Style 8012 fabric, the average crease rating for these samples being 4.0.
• Example II The procedure of Example I is repeated except that the aqueous solution in which the fabric is padded contains 10% ethylene glycol.
• the crease rating for the fabric treated in accordance with this process is 3.8.
• EXAMPLE III A wool fabric is impregnated with the treating solution of Example II, wrapped around a perforated drum, and placed in an autoclave where steam under a pressure of 20-25 pounds per square inch gauge is forced through the fabric for 2 minutes. The drum is then removed from the autoclave, placed upon a stand and a vacuum is drawn through the fabric for 10 minutes. After this treatment, the fabric is noted to have an excellent lustrous finish and hand, which is retained in the fabric even after immersion in water at F. for 30 minutes.
• Example IV While only a fair crease remains in this fabric after creasing without added moisture as in Example 1, good creases are provided when the pressing is conducted after spraying the fabric to a moisture level of 40% EXAMPLE IV The process of Example I is repeated except that the fabric samples are dried immediately for 15 minutes at 200 F. after squeezing to a wet pick-up of 70% by weight.
• the average crease rating for the fabrics treated in accordance with this example is 4.3.
• EXAMPLE VI A piece (70 to 80 yds.) of the fabric of Example I is padded in a solution as recited in Example I and squeezed to a Wet pick-up of 80 to 90%. The fabric is allowed to stand for 15 minutes and then dried under the relaxed conditions provided in a Fleissner drier at 200 F. The moisture level of the fabric is measured at this time at about 10 by weight.
• This fabric is then subjected to a mild semidecating step involving wrapping the treated fabric with a smooth cotton linear around a perforated drum, forcing steam at a pressure of 20 lbs. p.s.i.g. into the perforated drum and through the fabric for about 30 seconds at which time the steam emerges through the outer layer of the wrapped fabric.
• a vacuum is drawn on the perforated drum side of the assembly for about 2 minutes and the fabric is then unwrapped from the perforated drum.
• the fabric so treated is delivered to a trouser manufacturer who proceeds to manufacture trousers from the fabric just as he would have done from untreated fabric, except that the conventional sponging technique is eliminated.
• the trousers are then placed upon a standard Hoffman press and steam pressed for 30 seconds followed by a dry-pressing step for an additional 30 seconds. After wear testing, during which time it was noted that the feel of the fabric was better than untreated wool, the trousers are immersed in tap water for 30 minutes. After drying, the trousers are noted to have retained substantially the crease and lustrous finish that they had prior to the immersion in water.
• EXAMPLE VII A fabric swatch as used in Example I is impregnated with an aqueous solution containing by weight of sodium sulfite and 5% by weight of sodium bisulfite and squeezed to a wet pick-up level of 85%. After aging for 1 hour in this condition, the fabric is given a light rinse in tap water and solutions containing 2%, and 20%, respectively, of gylcerin, are padded onto separate samples of the fabric. These samples are then dried at 180 F. for about 45 minutes to moisture levels below 10% by weight and pressed as in Example I to provide creases durable to the tests of Example I, the better creases being provided by the samples treated with the 20% solution of glycerin.
• Example VIII The procedures of Example VII are repeated except that aqueous solutions of 2%, 10% and 20% diethylene glycol and tris-hydroxymethylamino methane, respectively, are substituted for the glycerin solutions. Similarly good creases are obtained with these reagents.
• Example VII The procedures of Example VII are repeated except that aqueous solutions containing 5% and 10% of polyethylene glycols having the molecular weights of 200, 300, 400, 600, 1,450, and 4,000 are substituted for the glycerin solutions. Better crease ratings are obtained with the glycols of molecular weights 200, 300 and 400 at the 10% level than with the higher molecular weight materials.
• Fabrics prepared in accordance with this invention may also be pleated by conventional techniques, such as the hand-pleating operation.
• the fabric after being cut to the required shape, is placed under control in pleat forming or haping means, for example, between two plain sheets of stiff pleating paper, which are then folded into pleats.
• the bundle is then tied up so as to preserve the pleated state of the papers and sandwiched fabric during the subsequent steaming treatment, which consists simply of placing the brindle in the upper compartment of a chamber into which steam is fed.
• steaming treatment which consists simply of placing the brindle in the upper compartment of a chamber into which steam is fed.
• Durable pleats may be produced with fabrics of the present invention in considerably less time than with other fabrics, e.g., on the order of a few minutes; although, of course, excellent pleats are obtained during steaming for 20 minutes in the conventional manner, but without adding water beforehand.
• Matching trousers may also be durably set in this manner by creasing the trousers into the desired configuration by brief, for example 5 seconds, Hoffman pressing, and pressure steaming the trousers in the autoclave simultaneously with the suit coat. In this manner, essentially the same finish is applied to the entire suit.
• a process for imparting to a fabric comprising wool fibers a propensity for subsequent durable setting comprising adding to said fabric from about 0.01 to about 20% by weight of alkanolamine sulfite and from about 3 to about 50% by weight of polyhydroxy compound; drying said fabric under substantially relaxed conditions to a moisture level suitable for shipping whereby the fabric is then characterized by a low value of area shrinkage and by a propensity for subsequent durable setting without the addition to the fabric of moisture beyond the moisture regain level of the fabric, manufacturing a garment from said fabric, and setting the garment in a desired configuration, said configuration after setting being durable to subsequent wetting and wearing conditions.
• a process for imparting to a garment comprising wool fibers a configuration durable to subsequent wearing and wetting comprising applying to a fabric comprising wool fibers a reducing agent and a low molecular weight polyhydroxy compound; subjecting said fabric to steam to improve the finish of the fabric but for a sufficiently brief period of time to retain in the fabric a substantial propensity for subsequent durable setting; preparing a garment from said fabric; and exposing said garment to steam for a sufficient period of time to set the garment in. a given configuration.
• a process for imparting to a garment comprising wool fibers a configuration durable to subsequent wearing and wetting comprising applying to a fabric containing wool fibers a reducing agent and a low molecular Weight polyhydroXy compound; subjecting said fabric to steam to improve the finish of the fabric but for a sufficiently brief period of time to retain in the fabric a substantial propensity for subsequent durable setting without the addition of moisture beyond the moisture regain level of the fabric; preparing a garment from said fabric; and, without the addition of moisture, exposing said garment to steam for a sufiicient period of time to set the garment in a given configuration.

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• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
• Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
• Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)

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• 0
  • BE BE617966D patent/BE617966A/xx unknown
  • FR FR1332011D patent/FR1332011A/fr not_active Expired
  • NL NL278733D patent/NL278733A/xx unknown
• 1962
  • 1962-01-19 US US167420A patent/US3423166A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 1962-05-09 GB GB17868/62A patent/GB998142A/en not_active Expired
• 1965
  • 1965-08-06 US US477958A patent/US3477805A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime

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