US3423166A - Polyhydroxy compounds used in conjunction with reducing agents in wool setting processes - Google Patents

Polyhydroxy compounds used in conjunction with reducing agents in wool setting processes Download PDF

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US3423166A
US3423166A US167420A US3423166DA US3423166A US 3423166 A US3423166 A US 3423166A US 167420 A US167420 A US 167420A US 3423166D A US3423166D A US 3423166DA US 3423166 A US3423166 A US 3423166A
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fabric
garment
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setting
fabrics
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Earl Peters
Joseph H Dusenbury
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Deering Milliken Research Corp
Milliken Research Corp
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/51Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof
    • D06M11/54Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof with sulfur dioxide; with sulfurous acid or its salts
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M23/00Treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, characterised by the process

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Description

United States Patent 3,423,166 POLYHYDROXY COMPOUNDS USED IN CON- JUNCTIDN WITH REDUCING AGENTS IN WOOL SETTING PROCESSES Earl Peters and Joseph H. Dusenbury, Spartanhurg, S.C., assignors to Deering Milliken Research Corporation, Spartanburg, S.C., a corporation of Delaware No Drawing. Filed Jan. 19, 1962, Ser. No. 167,420 U.S. Cl. 8128 9 Claims Int. Cl. D06m 13/54; D06m 13/16; D06m 13/36 This invention relates to a novel process for modifying the characteristics of keratin fibers and, more particularly, to a process for imparting to fabrics comprising W001 fibers a propensity for subsequent durable setting without the addition, prior to or at the time of setting, of moisture beyond the regain level.
Many procedures are available for imparting to fabrics comprising wool fibers a crease which is fairly resistant to distortion even after considerable wear and wetting. All of these procedures, however, have proven sulficiently unsatisfactory as to have attained only limited success. For example, one such process involves spraying the finished garment, i.e., a pair of trousers, with a solution of a reducing agent immediately prior to pressing. It is essential in the practice of this process that the amount of water applied to the fabric at the time of pressing be at least 40% by weight of the fabric. This process necessarily involves spray equipment, manual labor and a multiplicity of undesirable manipulations. In addition, this process is applicable only to a finished garment, since the trousers must be pressed immediately after the application of the reducing agent and while the fabric contains at least 40% water.
The problems associated with this process have been partially overcome by a process wherein the reducing agent is applied at the mill level, followed by drying at temperatures necessarily below 50 C., so as to inhibit the activity of the reducing agent on the wool fibers. This low temperature drying, however, is highly objectionable in a mill operation in that this procedure requires far more space and time than is economically desirable. Furthermore, even though the reducing agent is applied at the mill level the consumer must moisten the fabric to a moisture content of at least about 40% by weight, prior to pressing, once again adding materially to the equipment and labor required to successfully produce a durable crease.
In a copending patent application, Ser. No. 111,447, there is described a process which essentially eliminates the difficulties inherent in the operation of these prior art processes. In accordance with the invention described in that application, a fabric characterized by a propensity for subsequent durable creasing without added moisture is provided by applying to the fabric, in addition to the reducing agent, a given amount of a swelling agent for the wool fibers. While the preferred swelling agent described in the copending application, urea, provides results far superior to those of the prior-art processes, it has been found that small deposits of the urea wick out of the fabric upon drying after substantial wetting. These fine crystalline deposits, which occur particularly at the higher concentrations of urea where optimum results are obtained, present an appearance which would be considered undesirable by some garment wearers.
It is an object of this invention to provide substitutes for the swelling agents of the copending application, Ser. 'No. 111,447, which not only will provide the same enhanced properties described in that application but also will overcome the wicking problem associated with the use of the preferred swelling agents.
It is also an object of this invention to provide these Patented Jan. 21, 1969 See properties in a treatment at the mill level where the fabrics so treated can be dried at higher temperatures and which retain their propensity for subsequent durable setting without the addition of moisture beyond the regain level.
These objects are accomplished in accordance with this invention by applying to the fabric comprising keratin fibers a reducing agent and a low molecular weight polyhydroxy compound, such as ethylene glycol. There is no apparent reason why these polyhydroxy compounds provide a fabric which is characterized by a propensity for subsequent durable setting without the addition of moisture beyond the level of regain, just as there was no ready explanation for the improvement provided by urea and other swelling agents for the wool fibers. One Would not expect polyhydroxy compounds to provide these improved results since these particular compounds are not considered swelling agents in the same sense that urea and other agents are considered to be swelling agents for W001 fibers. The results obtained, then, with the low molecular weight polyhydroxy compounds is wholly unexpected and surprising, particularly when it is considered that these polyhydroxy compounds provide, if anything, better results than are obtained with swelling agents.
The polyhydroxy compounds, furthermore, provide a fabric having the desired propensity for subsequent durable setting without the addition of moisture beyond the regain level, while simultaneously eliminating any wicking effect as a result of the added material.
Inorganic reducing agents, particularly when utilized in processes involving no washing step prior to the setting of the garment, have also been found to contribute slightly to the wicking effect. Consequently, the wicking effect can be completely eliminated by the use of an organic reducing agent in combination with the low molecular weight polyhydroxy compound. Particularly suitable organic reducing agents include the lower alkanolamine sulfites, such as monoethanolamine sulfite and isopropanolamine sulfite, and others containing up to about 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain, such as n-propanolamine sulfite, n-butanolamine sulfite, dimethylbutanolamine sulfite, dimethylhexanolamine sulfite and the like.
It should be realized, however, that the novel and unexpected results obtained in the use of the low molecular weight polyhydroxy compound are provided in combination with any reducing agent for keratin fibers. These reducing agents, which are well known in the art, include the metallic formaldehyde s-ulfoxylates, such as zinc formaldehyde sulfoxylate; alkali metal sulfoxylates, such as sodium formaldehyde sulfoxylate; alkali metal borohydrides, such as sodium borohydride and potassium borohydride; alkali metal sulfites, such as sodium or potassium bisulfite, sulfite, metabisulfite, or hydrosulfite; mercaptan acids, such as thioglycollic acid and its watersoluble salts, such as sodium potassium or ammonium thioglycollate; mercaptans, such as hydrogen sulfide and sodium or potassium hydrosulfide; alkyl mercaptans, such as butyl or ethyl mercaptans and mercaptan glycols, such as beta-mercaptoethanol; ammonium bisulfite, sodium sulfide, sodium hydrosulfide, cysteine hydrochloride, sodium hypophosphite, sodium thiosulfate, sodium dithionate, titanous chloride, sulfurous acid and the like and mixtures of these reducing agents. The alkanolamine sulfites, however, constitute the preferred reducing agents for use in accordance with this invention since it is in the use of these particular reducing agents that the undesirable wicking effect is completely eliminated.
While the effect of the reducing agent may be subject to some speculation amongst wool experts, it is generally considered that the reducing agent ruptures a plurality of the cystine disulfide linkages present in the wool fibers.
The concentration of the reducing agent and the period of exposure of the wool fibers to the reducing agent should be controlled so that excessive rupture of these linkages, resulting in excessive degradation of fiber properties, is not permitted to occur. Extreme cases of degradation may be checked visually, in that the wool fiber appears to become gelatinous in nature when an excessive number of the cystine disulfide linkages are ruptured.
The reducing agent may be applied to the fabric in any desired amount, depending upon the degree of cystine disulfide reduction desired. In general, optimum results are obtained when from about 0.01 to about 20% by Weight of the reducing agent and from about 3 to about 50% by Weight of the polyhydroxy compound are applied to the fabric. Most preferably, from about 2 to about by weight of the reducing agent and from about 5 to about by weight of the polyhydroxy compound are applied to the fabric. Higher concentrations may be utilized Where the fabric is to be exposed to the treating medium for only a short time or where the method of applying the reagents necessitates, e.g., when the reagents are applied by techniques other than by immersion in an aqueous medium containing the reagents, as with an applicator roll or the like.
By the term low molecular Weight polyhydroxy compound is meant a compound containing more than one hydroxy group and having a molecular Weight no greater than about 4,000. Of these compounds, the most readily available and desirable compound, from the standpoint of ease of application, comprises ethylene glycol. A particularly preferred group of glycols includes the polyfunctional glycols having terminal hydroxyl groups separated by 2 to 10 methylene groups, including, of course, the preferred ethylene glycol as well as trimethylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, pentamethylene glycol, hexamethylene glycol, heptamethylene glycol, octamethylene glycol, nonamethylene glycol, and deca-methylene glycol, or such glycols as 1,2-propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, diethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol or the like.
Polyfunctional compounds containing more than 2 hydroxyl groups include the polyfunctional alcohol glycerols such as glycerine, quintenyl glycerin, diethylglycerol and mesicerin, as well as trimethylol ethane, trimethylol butane, tris-hydroxymethyl-amino methane and others. Glycol ethers, such as the Water-soluble or dispersible polyethylene glycols or polypropylene glycols having molecular weights no greater than about 4,000 also provide satisfactory results when utilized in accordance with this invention.
The reducing agent and polyhydroxy compound may be added to the fabric in any desired sequence, but in a preferred embodiment, these materials are added to the fabric by impregnating with an aqueous solution containing both the reducing agent and the polyhydroxy compound in the desired proportions. The fabric may then be immediately removed from the solution, squeezed to the desired wet pickup, (generally between about 50 and about 150%) and allowed to age for an appropriate time before further processing in accordance with this invention. Since it is desirable that the materials added to the fabric be left in the fabric during all subsequent operations, including garment manufacture and pressing, no specific aging period is required in the practice of this invention, although it is preferred to allow the fabric to stand or age for at least about 10 minutes in its wetted state before continuing subsequent finishing operations.
One of the advantages of the present invention is that the fabric so treated may be dried at levels normally encountered in mill operations, for example, about 200 F. and usually not in excess of 250 F. When this drying procedure is conducted with the fabric under substantially relaxed conditions, the resulting fabric is characterized by a lower area shrinkage. In this condition, the fabric may be shipped to a garment manufacturer who can cut the fabric as received without conducting the sponging 0r shrinking operations which he would be forced to conduct with conventional fabrics. These operations are particularly undesirable to the garment manufacturer since he must not only wet out the fabrics received but must permit the fabric to dry under relaxed conditions to insure that the fabric shrinks in its uncut configuration rather than upon subsequent wetting in the form of garments. This sponging or shrinking procedure, although a great nuisance to garment manufacturers, heretofore has been an essential step in the manufacture of garments from conventional fabrics.
By drying fabrics produced in accordance with this invention under relaxed conditions at the mill level, the sponging or shrinking techniques utilized by garment manufacturers are eliminated. The ganment manufacturer may receive the fabric of this invention, cut it into the desired configuration necessary for the production of garments, sew the garments, press the garment without any additional step or treatment required and obtain a garment characterized by durable creases or pleats, as the case may be. In addition, the fiat areas of the garment manufactured from the fabric of this invention are also characterized by a high degree of crease resistance even under hot, wet conditions.
It may be readily seen, therefore, that the process of this invention not only provides the wearer of the garment with a most desirable garment but also completely eliminates many of the undesirable techniques and additional procedures required heretofore on the part of garment manufacturers in the production of such garments.
The finish :of the fabric prepared in accordance with this invention may be enhanced at the mill level by mild se-midecating techniques, although it should be realized that excessively hot and wet conditions should be avoided in order to retain the maximum propensity for subsequent durable setting. For example, the fabrics treated in accordance with this invention should not be subjected to temperatures in excess of 212 F. when it is moist at a level in excess of 20%, unless it is desired to permanently set the fabric in the configuration that it is in at the time it is subjected to these conditions, since the propensity for subsequent durable setting is substantially diminished after long periods :of exposure to such hot, wet conditions.
A mild semidecating procedure, however, is entirely permissible for improving the finish of fabrics treated in accordance with this invention. This mild semidecating technique may be accomplished by wrapping the fabric around a perforated drum through which steam is forced and continuing the application of steam until steam emerges from the outer layer of fabric. Generally, no more than about 30 seconds is required to force the steam through 70 to yards of fabric.
A highly desirable lustrous finish may be durably set into fabrics treated in accordance with this invention by conducting the decating technique under elevated pressures for longer periods of time. This technique, known as full-decating, involves wrapping the fabric around a perforated drum as before, but in this technique the steaming is conducted in an autoclave under a constant pressure of up to about 30 pounds per square inch gauge. In a typical full-decating procedure, steam is forced through the fabric for about 2 minutes, after which a vacuum is drawn through the fabric for another 10 minutes. The prolonged hot-wet conditions are sufficient to set the desirable finish so produced to a high degree of durability to water exposure, such as occurs in conventional sponging, rainfall or the like. While a substantial degree of the fabrics propensity for subsequent durable setting without added moisture is removed by this treatment, sufficient propensity remains in the fabric for good creases to be set into the fabric when the moisture level of the fabric is in excess of about 20% at the time of setting. The extent of full-decating may be modified to provide the desired degree of durability and luster of the finishes obtained. For example, more prolonged full-decating provides a more durable and more lustrous finish with correspondingly reduced propensity for subsequent durable setting. On the other hand, the full decating procedure may be minimized to provide a fabric having good durability and luster :of finish with a higher propensity for subsequent durable setting, with or without added moisture.
Although it is preferred that both the reducing agent and the polyhydroxy compound be left in the fabric throughout all subsequent treating steps, the fabric may be lightly washed after treatment with either or both of the reducing agents or swelling agents. This procedure is not preferred, however, since the washing technique diminishes the propensity in the fabric for subsequent durable setting without the addition of moisture in excess of the regain level. This feature of the invention is most readily obtained when the chemicals are left in the fabric at all times up to, but not necessarily after, the setting step. For example, if this treatment is utilized in a mill operation to obtain a fabric of permanent fiat setting properties, i.e., a fabric which is permanently set in a substantially fiat configuration, the fabric may then be washed to remove any retained chemicals while still retaining its flat characteristics. In general, however, when this invention is to be applied to fabrics for use in the production of garments and it is desired that these garments have applied to them durable creases or pleats, the washing procedure is preferably not utilized.
While the process of this invention is particularly adapted to fabrics composed essentially of 'keratin fibers, particularly those composed entirely of wool fibers, it is also applicable to fabrics wherein synthetic, natural, or other 'keratin fibers are blended with the wool component. Other keratin fibers include mohair, alpaca, cashmere, vicuna, guanaco, camels hair, silk, llama and the like. Preferred synthetic fibers for blending with wool fibers include polyamides, such as polyhexamethylene adiparnide; polyesters, such as polyethylene terephthalate; and acrylic fibers, such as acrylonitrile homopolymers or copolymers containing at least about 85% combined acrylonitrile such as acrylonitrile/methacrylate (85/ 15 and cellulosics, such as cellulose acetate and viscose rayon. Of the natural fibers which may be blended with the keratin fibers, cotton is preferred.
The process of this invention may be performed on woven, nonwoven, or knitted fabrics of any type, dyed or undyed, provided, of course, that the dyes are stable to the reagents. Low temperature treatments with the reducing agents are particularly adapted to the treatment of dyed goods. Conversely, high temperature treatments may not be entirely suitable for treatment of dyed goods since at elevated temperatures the reducing agency may, in some instances, strip some dye from the fabrics.
For some reason, not fully explained, better results are obtained on some styles of fabric than on others. For example, excellent results are obtained when the process of this invention is applied to worsted flannel fabrics having a twill weave construction while slightly inferior results, though still of good quality, are obtained with tropical worsted fabrics of a plain weave construction. In some fabrics the quality of results obtained may relate to the extent of twist put into the yarns from which the fabric is prepared. The process of this invention, however, provides for all fabrics treated, a propensity for subsequent durable setting without the addition of moisture beyond the regain level, although as stated, superior results are obtained in most instances with more tightly woven fabrics composed of lower twisted yarns.
Another advantage of the process of this invention is that the fabric may be treated over a wide range of pH. For example, a conventional finishing treatment applied to wool fabrics involves the application to the fabric of concentrated sulfuric acid in order to Carbonize cellulosic impurities present in the fabric. After this treatment, from 2 to 3% by weight of sulfuric acid is often left on the fabric. One of the advantages of this invention is that fabrics so treated may be subjected to the process of this invention without being neutralized, although, obviously, the fabric may be neutralized if, for some reason, the operator prefers.
Good results have been obtained by treating fabrics comprising wool fibers with reducing agent-swelling agent solutions at a pH between about 3 and about 10, although optimum results are obtained at pH levels between about 4.5 and about 7.6.
The following examples illustrate preferred embodiments of the present invention.
EXAMPLE I An aqueous solution (at a pH of approximately 7.2,) containing 12.8% by weight of a 70% solution of ethanolamine sulfite, 20% ethylene glycol of a commercial grade and 0.1% by weight of a non-rewetting penetrant sold under the tradename of Silwet, is padded onto a worsted flannel fabric swatch -(Excelsior Pendleton-Deering Milliken, Inc., fabric Style 8012) to a 70% wet pickup and aged outside the pad bath for 15 minutes. After drying at 200 F. for 45 minutes during which time the moisture level in the fabric is reduced to about 8% by weight, the fabric swatch is folded and pressed on a Hoffman press using a 30 second top steam, 30 second dry cycle. The fabric is then opened and immersed for 30 minutes in water at 170 F. containing 0.1% of Surfonic N-95, a wetting agent. After drying, the creases retained in the fabrics are rated from 1 to 5, 1 being the rating of the crease retained by an untreated fabric and 5 constituting a sharp crease with correspondingly good hand or feel. This procedure is repeated on 9 swatches on other pieces of Style 8012 fabric, the average crease rating for these samples being 4.0.
For comparison, this procedure is repeated with solutions containing 6.4 and 12.8% respectively of the ethanolamine sulfite but without ethylene glycol. The average crease rating for these fabrics is 1.3 and 2.0, respectively.
Essentially the same crease ratings are provided when isopropanolamine sulfite is substituted for the ethanolamine sulfite and the pH of the treating solution is at 5.8 rather than 7.2.
EXAMPLE II The procedure of Example I is repeated except that the aqueous solution in which the fabric is padded contains 10% ethylene glycol. The crease rating for the fabric treated in accordance with this process is 3.8.
EXAMPLE III A wool fabric is impregnated with the treating solution of Example II, wrapped around a perforated drum, and placed in an autoclave where steam under a pressure of 20-25 pounds per square inch gauge is forced through the fabric for 2 minutes. The drum is then removed from the autoclave, placed upon a stand and a vacuum is drawn through the fabric for 10 minutes. After this treatment, the fabric is noted to have an excellent lustrous finish and hand, which is retained in the fabric even after immersion in water at F. for 30 minutes. While only a fair crease remains in this fabric after creasing without added moisture as in Example 1, good creases are provided when the pressing is conducted after spraying the fabric to a moisture level of 40% EXAMPLE IV The process of Example I is repeated except that the fabric samples are dried immediately for 15 minutes at 200 F. after squeezing to a wet pick-up of 70% by weight. The average crease rating for the fabrics treated in accordance with this example is 4.3.
7 EXAMPLE v The procedure of Example I is repeated except that the fabric swatches are dried, in separate experiments, at
175 F. and 225 F., respectively. The average crease ratings for 4 samples treated in this manner are 4.4 and 3.8, respectively.
EXAMPLE VI A piece (70 to 80 yds.) of the fabric of Example I is padded in a solution as recited in Example I and squeezed to a Wet pick-up of 80 to 90%. The fabric is allowed to stand for 15 minutes and then dried under the relaxed conditions provided in a Fleissner drier at 200 F. The moisture level of the fabric is measured at this time at about 10 by weight.
This fabric is then subjected to a mild semidecating step involving wrapping the treated fabric with a smooth cotton linear around a perforated drum, forcing steam at a pressure of 20 lbs. p.s.i.g. into the perforated drum and through the fabric for about 30 seconds at which time the steam emerges through the outer layer of the wrapped fabric. A vacuum is drawn on the perforated drum side of the assembly for about 2 minutes and the fabric is then unwrapped from the perforated drum.
The fabric so treated is delivered to a trouser manufacturer who proceeds to manufacture trousers from the fabric just as he would have done from untreated fabric, except that the conventional sponging technique is eliminated. The trousers are then placed upon a standard Hoffman press and steam pressed for 30 seconds followed by a dry-pressing step for an additional 30 seconds. After wear testing, during which time it was noted that the feel of the fabric was better than untreated wool, the trousers are immersed in tap water for 30 minutes. After drying, the trousers are noted to have retained substantially the crease and lustrous finish that they had prior to the immersion in water.
EXAMPLE VII A fabric swatch as used in Example I is impregnated with an aqueous solution containing by weight of sodium sulfite and 5% by weight of sodium bisulfite and squeezed to a wet pick-up level of 85%. After aging for 1 hour in this condition, the fabric is given a light rinse in tap water and solutions containing 2%, and 20%, respectively, of gylcerin, are padded onto separate samples of the fabric. These samples are then dried at 180 F. for about 45 minutes to moisture levels below 10% by weight and pressed as in Example I to provide creases durable to the tests of Example I, the better creases being provided by the samples treated with the 20% solution of glycerin.
EXAMPLE VIII The procedures of Example VII are repeated except that aqueous solutions of 2%, 10% and 20% diethylene glycol and tris-hydroxymethylamino methane, respectively, are substituted for the glycerin solutions. Similarly good creases are obtained with these reagents.
EXAMPLE IX The procedures of Example VII are repeated except that aqueous solutions containing 5% and 10% of polyethylene glycols having the molecular weights of 200, 300, 400, 600, 1,450, and 4,000 are substituted for the glycerin solutions. Better crease ratings are obtained with the glycols of molecular weights 200, 300 and 400 at the 10% level than with the higher molecular weight materials.
Conventional pressing techniques, without the addition of water, are entirely suitable to impart to garments produced from fabrics prepared in accordance with this invention creases durable to subsequent wear and wetting. Most garment manufacturers utilize conventional Hoffman presses to impart creases to garments. In the operation of this equipment, the garment is placed between the platens of the press, which are then closed to flatten the garment in the desired configuration. Steam is forced onto the garment in its folded configuration for a period of from 5 to 30 seconds and then the steam is withdrawn by vacuum for another 5 to 30 seconds after which the platens are released. This technique is entirely suitable for imparting creases to fabrics prepared in accordance with this invention. Other conventional creasing techniques are similarly suitable. For example, simple pressing with a hand iron provides creases of a durable nature also, although the presence of steam for even a few seconds enhances the creases obtained.
Fabrics prepared in accordance with this invention may also be pleated by conventional techniques, such as the hand-pleating operation. In this operation, the fabric, after being cut to the required shape, is placed under control in pleat forming or haping means, for example, between two plain sheets of stiff pleating paper, which are then folded into pleats. The bundle is then tied up so as to preserve the pleated state of the papers and sandwiched fabric during the subsequent steaming treatment, which consists simply of placing the brindle in the upper compartment of a chamber into which steam is fed. Several bundles are normally treated at the same time and steaming is normally carried out for 20 minutes. Durable pleats may be produced with fabrics of the present invention in considerably less time than with other fabrics, e.g., on the order of a few minutes; although, of course, excellent pleats are obtained during steaming for 20 minutes in the conventional manner, but without adding water beforehand.
While a great deal of interest has been shown in recent years in the setting of durable creases and pleats in mens trousers and ladies skirts, there has been no practicable process for applying these creases and pleats to complete suits of outer garments. More specifically, there has been no technique developed whereby durably set coats can be provided. Suit coats manufactured from the fabric of this invention, however, may be durably set into their designed configuration simply by placing the coat in an autoclave for a few minutes, preferably at least 3 minutes, or for as long as desired but preferably no more than about 30 minutes, under a steam pressure from atmospheric to about 30 pounds per square inch gauge. Obviously, at higher steam pressure, a shorter period of exposure will provide good results. Matching trousers may also be durably set in this manner by creasing the trousers into the desired configuration by brief, for example 5 seconds, Hoffman pressing, and pressure steaming the trousers in the autoclave simultaneously with the suit coat. In this manner, essentially the same finish is applied to the entire suit. These and other advantages will become readily apparent to those skilled in the art in the practice of this invention.
That which is claimed is:
1. A process for imparting to a fabric comprising wool fibers a propensity for subsequent durable setting comprising adding to said fabric from about 0.01 to about 20% by weight of alkanolamine sulfite and from about 3 to about 50% by weight of polyhydroxy compound; drying said fabric under substantially relaxed conditions to a moisture level suitable for shipping whereby the fabric is then characterized by a low value of area shrinkage and by a propensity for subsequent durable setting without the addition to the fabric of moisture beyond the moisture regain level of the fabric, manufacturing a garment from said fabric, and setting the garment in a desired configuration, said configuration after setting being durable to subsequent wetting and wearing conditions.
2. The process of claim 1 wherein monoisopropanolamine sulfite is substituted for the ethanolamine sulfite.
3. A process for imparting to a garment comprising wool fibers a configuration durable to subsequent wearing and wetting comprising applying to a fabric comprising wool fibers a reducing agent and a low molecular weight polyhydroxy compound; subjecting said fabric to steam to improve the finish of the fabric but for a sufficiently brief period of time to retain in the fabric a substantial propensity for subsequent durable setting; preparing a garment from said fabric; and exposing said garment to steam for a sufficient period of time to set the garment in. a given configuration.
4. A process for imparting to a garment comprising wool fibers a configuration durable to subsequent wearing and wetting comprising applying to a fabric containing wool fibers a reducing agent and a low molecular Weight polyhydroXy compound; subjecting said fabric to steam to improve the finish of the fabric but for a sufficiently brief period of time to retain in the fabric a substantial propensity for subsequent durable setting without the addition of moisture beyond the moisture regain level of the fabric; preparing a garment from said fabric; and, without the addition of moisture, exposing said garment to steam for a sufiicient period of time to set the garment in a given configuration.
5. The process of claim 4 wherein the fabric is dried under substantially relaxed conditions prior to subjecting said fabric to steam to improve the finish of the fabric.
6. The process of claim 4 wherein the garment is pressed in the presence of steam to set the garment in a given configuration.
7. The process of claim 4 wherein the reducing agent is present in an amount between about 2 and about 10% by Weight of the fabric and the polyhydroxy compound is present in an amount between about 5 and about 20% by weight of the fabric.
8. The garment prepared in accordance with the process of claim 3.
9. The garment prepared in accordance with the process of claim 4.
References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,933,409 4/1960 Binkley et a1. 11711 2,957,746 10/1960 Buck et al. 38-144 X 2,974,432 3/1961 Warnochet al. 38144 2,983,569 5/1961 Charle 8127.5 3,098,694 7/1963 Reider 8128 2,888,313 5/1959 Mautner.
3,077,655 2/1963 Runton 8-128 OTHER REFERENCES Wolfram et al., Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colorists, vol. 76, pp. 169-173 (1960).
Speakman, Journal of the Textile Institute, pp. T627- T628 (1958).
NORMAN G. TORCHIN, Primary Examiner.
J. CANNON, Assistant Examiner.
US. Cl. X.R.

Claims (1)

1. A PROCESS FOR IMPARTING TO A FABRIC COMPRISING WOOL FIBERS A PROPENSITY FOR SUBSEQUENT DURABLE SETTING COMPRISING ADDING TO SAID FABRIC FROM ABOUT 0.01 TO ABOUT 20% BY WEIGHT OF ALKANOLAMINE SULFITE AND FROM ABOUT 3 TO ABOUT 50% BY WEIGHT OF POLYHYDROXY COMPOUND; DRYING SAID FABRIC UNDER SUBSTANIALLY RELAXED CONDITIONS TO A MOISTURE LEVEL SUITABLE FOR SHIPPING WHEREBY THE THE FABRIC IS THEN CHARACTERIZED BY A LOW VALUE OF AREA SHRINKAGE AND BY A PROPENSITY FOR SUBSEQUENT DURABLE SETTING WITHOUT THE ADDITION TO THE FABRIC OF MOISTURE BEYOND THE MOISTURE REGAIN LEVEL OF THE FABRIC, MANUFACTURING A GARMENT FROM SAID FABRIC, AND SETTING THE GARMENT IN A DESIRED CONFIGURATION, SAID CONFIGURATION AFTER SETTING BEING DURABLE TO SUBSEQUENT WETTING AND WEARING CONDITIONS.
US167420A 1961-05-22 1962-01-19 Polyhydroxy compounds used in conjunction with reducing agents in wool setting processes Expired - Lifetime US3423166A (en)

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US11144761A 1961-05-22 1961-05-22
US16742062A 1962-01-19 1962-01-19
US47795865A 1965-08-06 1965-08-06

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US477958A Expired - Lifetime US3477805A (en) 1961-05-22 1965-08-06 Process for modifying keratin fibers

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Cited By (1)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3925581A (en) * 1972-09-01 1975-12-09 Bayer Ag Process for finishing textiles made of fibers which contain keratin

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4102642A (en) * 1976-04-30 1978-07-25 Banks John B Treatment of fabric comprising cotton or keratinous fibers for shrink resistance
FR2878435B1 (en) * 2004-11-26 2009-04-03 Oreal METHOD FOR DETERMINING KERATIN FIBERS WITH A HEATING MEANS AND A DENATURING AGENT

Citations (7)

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US2888313A (en) * 1956-07-23 1959-05-26 Gen Aniline & Film Corp Continuous dyeing process
US2933409A (en) * 1958-08-14 1960-04-19 Charles H Binkley Method for imparting permanent deformation to textiles
US2957746A (en) * 1957-01-11 1960-10-25 Nat Cotton Council Of America Process of inducing a crease into creaseproofed cellulose fabrics by treating with an acid catalyst and hot pressing a crease in the treated area
US2974432A (en) * 1956-02-20 1961-03-14 Koret Of California Press-free crease retained garments and method of manufacture thereof
US2983569A (en) * 1957-05-20 1961-05-09 Oreal Deformation of keratinous fibers with sulfite-borohydride composition
US3077655A (en) * 1961-05-09 1963-02-19 Stevens & Co Inc J P Method and apparatus for imparting stretch to wool fabric
US3098694A (en) * 1960-07-11 1963-07-23 Drew Chem Corp Continuous treatment of wool to shrinkproof and sensitize the same

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GB443359A (en) * 1934-06-20 1936-02-20 Ici Ltd Compositions for setting animal fibres such as wool or hair
US2672397A (en) * 1952-08-22 1954-03-16 Harold P Lundgren Reaction of wool with beta-propiolactone and water

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2974432A (en) * 1956-02-20 1961-03-14 Koret Of California Press-free crease retained garments and method of manufacture thereof
US2888313A (en) * 1956-07-23 1959-05-26 Gen Aniline & Film Corp Continuous dyeing process
US2957746A (en) * 1957-01-11 1960-10-25 Nat Cotton Council Of America Process of inducing a crease into creaseproofed cellulose fabrics by treating with an acid catalyst and hot pressing a crease in the treated area
US2983569A (en) * 1957-05-20 1961-05-09 Oreal Deformation of keratinous fibers with sulfite-borohydride composition
US2933409A (en) * 1958-08-14 1960-04-19 Charles H Binkley Method for imparting permanent deformation to textiles
US3098694A (en) * 1960-07-11 1963-07-23 Drew Chem Corp Continuous treatment of wool to shrinkproof and sensitize the same
US3077655A (en) * 1961-05-09 1963-02-19 Stevens & Co Inc J P Method and apparatus for imparting stretch to wool fabric

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3925581A (en) * 1972-09-01 1975-12-09 Bayer Ag Process for finishing textiles made of fibers which contain keratin

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US3477805A (en) 1969-11-11
FR1332011A (en) 1963-12-16
NL278733A (en)
BE617966A (en)
GB998142A (en) 1965-07-14

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