US3247569A - Woven fabric and method of making same - Google Patents

Woven fabric and method of making same Download PDF

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Publication number
US3247569A
US3247569A US24431062A US3247569A US 3247569 A US3247569 A US 3247569A US 24431062 A US24431062 A US 24431062A US 3247569 A US3247569 A US 3247569A
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Prior art keywords
yarn
fabric
stretch
twist
per inch
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Gliksmann David
David W Petree
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Burlington Industries Inc
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Burlington Industries Inc
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Priority to US24431062 priority Critical patent/US3247569A/en
Priority to GB4733663A priority patent/GB1018397A/en
Priority to CH953171A priority patent/CH543619A/de
Priority to CH1517963A priority patent/CH452100A/de
Priority to AT996863A priority patent/AT267377B/de
Priority to AT349565A priority patent/AT269766B/de
Priority to DE19631510522 priority patent/DE1510522A1/de
Priority to US423256A priority patent/US3289401A/en
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Publication of US3247569A publication Critical patent/US3247569A/en
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C29/00—Finishing or dressing, of textile fabrics, not provided for in the preceding groups
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/02—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/02—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
    • D02G1/0286—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist characterised by the use of certain filaments, fibres or yarns
    • D02G1/0293—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist characterised by the use of certain filaments, fibres or yarns composed, at least in part, of natural fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D03D15/217—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based natural from plants, e.g. cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/233—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/41—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with specific twist
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02—Cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/04—Linen
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
    • D10B2201/24—Viscose
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02—Wool
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/04—Silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated nitriles, e.g. polyacrylonitrile, polyvinylidene cyanide
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/04—Heat-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/041—Heat-responsive characteristics thermoplastic; thermosetting
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/30—Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/3008—Woven fabric has an elastic quality
    • Y10T442/3024—Including elastic strand or strip

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to stretch yarns, woven fabric containing the same and procedures for preparing such yarn and fabric.
  • the prim cipal object of the present invention is to provide a nevi type of stretch yarn and fabric using nonthermoplastic staple fibers which retain their original nonthermoplastic character throughout the preparation of the stretch yarn and fabric, i.e. the fibers are not treated with resin or the like to render the same functionally thermoplastic.
  • a more specific object of the invention is to provide stretch yarn and woven stretch fabric made up, entirely or in part; of nonthermoplastic spun staple fibers. Other objects will also be hereinafter apparent.
  • stretch yarns may be prepared from spun yarn or continuous filament yarn of thermoplastic material, e.g. nylon or Dacron, by thermally processing the spun or filament yarn, i.e. twisting, setting and 'untwisting the same (see, for example, US. Patent 2,803,-
  • the present invention is based, in part, on the surprising discovery that spun yarn consisting, in whole or at least in substantial part, of nonthermoplastic staple fibers may be made into highly suitable stretch yarns, for use in the preparation of woven's-tretch products, by twisting, setting and untwisting operations without any type of resinous pretreatment or equivalent operation designed to render the fibers functionally thermoplastic.
  • Patent 3,025,659 wherein it has been considered essential to initially impart a thermoplastic character to the spun nonthermoplastic iftwisting, setting and untwisting operations were to have any significant effect thereon.
  • the present invention requires the use of certain specific operations in the preparation of the stretch yarn and fabric prepared therefrom in order to obtain the desired stretch characteristics.
  • an important aspect of the invention is the feature of reeding out in weaving, i.e. increasing the space between the warp ends in the loom reed so that when the fabric is woven and relax finished, the filling yarn is allowed to bulk and the warp ends will be drawn in closer together thus providing a stretch fabric that will elongate and contract.
  • the fabric construction must be such that the sum of the average number of picks and warp ends per inch for any particular weave does not exceed a definite maximum.
  • the thermal processing of the plied yarns may be carried out on conventional false twisting equipment using dry heat.
  • Thespun yarns may be made up entirely of nontheromplastic staple fibers (hereinafter referred to as nonthermoplastic spun yarn) or they may comprise an intermingled fiber blend of staple nonthermoplastic and thermoplastic fibers (hereinafter referred to as blend spun yarn).
  • the pliedyarn of the invention may comprise two or more 100% nonthermoplastic spun yarns, two or more blend spun yarns or a combination of these two different types of yarns.
  • intermingled fiber blend it is intended to mean that the single spun yarn has a cross-section showing a thorough mixture or distribution of the various types of fibers present in the yarn whereby the blend is obtained prior to the spinning of the yarn. This is not to be confused with the congregation of fibers noted in plied yarns where each single yarn has a 100% homogeneous fiber con-tent.
  • the nonthermoplastic staple used herein may be any conventional nonthermop'lastic material, e.g. wool, cotton, linen, rayon, silk or mixtures thereof.
  • the thermoplastic material if used may be any available type of thermoplastic staple including nylon, polyester, acrylics and other man-made fibers of thermoplastic nature or mixtures thereof.
  • 100% NONTHERMOPLASTIC STRETCH YARN A 100% nonthermoplastic stretch yarn may be prepared according to the present invention starting with an end of spun nonthermoplastic, staple fibers, e.g. an end of 100% worsted. Usually the number of turns in the end of spun yarn will be in the neighborhood of from 5 to 28 turns per inch. This twist may be in either the S or Z direction.
  • the spun yarn selected for use herein should be as uniform as possible in order to obtain optimum results subsequent processing.
  • the above-mentioned end of spun yarn may be thermally processed as hereinafter described to give a stretch yarn.
  • the endof spun yarn be plied or twisted with one or more additional ends of spun nonthermoplastic fibers before the thermal processing;
  • the twist in this other end or ends may be in the same or different direction and the amount of twist therein may be equal to, or different from, the twist in the first end.
  • the degree and direction of twist are. the same in each end and the ply twist should also be in the same direction. This gives a twist-ontwist yarn of desirable characteristics.
  • a satis factory stretch yarn can also be made using a ply twist which is in a different direction to the pre-ply twist in one or all of the spun yarns although this usually requires the application of a higher twist in the subsequent thermal processing or false twisting operations.
  • the pre-ply twist in the twist-on-twist combination may be about 33% to 80% greater than the ply twist while, in the case' of a regular twist (i.e. where the pre-ply twist in the single yarns is the same but the ply twist is opposed), the ply twist should be from 60% to of the single yarn twist.
  • the ply twist may amount to from 60% of the single yarn twist up to 100% thereof.
  • worsted yarn 188 (turns per inch) worsted yarn 18S (turns per inch) worsted yarn 1SZ (turns per inch) worsted yarn 18Z (turns per inch) REGULAR TWIST worsted yarn 18Z (turns per inch) worsted yarn lSZ (turns per inch) worsted yarn 18S (turns per inch) worsted yarn 18S (turns per inch) TWIST-AGAINST-TWIST (ONDULE) plied or twisted together 12S (turns per inch) 12Z (turns per inch) 17S (turns per inch) 17Z (turns per inch) 18S (turns per inch) 18Z (turns per inch) point where the ends are delivered to the final ply twisting guides.
  • the plied yarn is thermally processed, as indicated above, -using a conventional false twist machine where the yarn is twisted, subjected to dry heat while in the twisted state and then untwisted.
  • this thermal processing operation is carried out with the fibers retaining completely their nonthermoplastic character, i.e. there is no chemical pretreatment, such as impregnating or coating the fibers with resin, or the like, so that these might function as thermoplastic fibers.
  • the supply package of plied yarn prepared as aforesaid is designated by the numeral 2.
  • This package is placed on a creel pin 4 which is positioned directly below a centering eye 6 to provide for even delivery tension from the supply package.
  • the yarn Y is drawn from supply package 2 through the centering eye 6 to a pretension assembly including tension disc 8-.
  • the yarn passing through the pretension assembly is threaded between the tension disc 8 prior to an overfeed roll 12.
  • the purpose of the tension disc is to keep the yarn taut prior to overfeed roll 12.
  • the yarn is wrapped one or more times around overfeed roll 12 prior to being passed over or through an appropriate heater element 14.
  • the roll 12 serves as a block to prevent twist from backing out and also controls the tension of yarn while passing over heater element 14.
  • the temperature of the heating element 14 and the exposure time between the element and yarn will vary over fairly wide ranges depending upon such other operating factors as the composition of the yarn, the yarn count,
  • the yarn is fed into an appropriate false twist rotor 16 constituting a component part of spindle 18.
  • This rotor is revolved at a suificient speed, typically 20,000 to 150,000 r.p.m. or even higher, to introduce into the yarn the desired number of helical coils or false twist per linear inch, the twist running backwards in the yarn to the overfeed roll 12.
  • the twist is removed as the yarn leaves the rotor 16 and the thermally processed yarn then passes through an appropriate traverse guide 20 onto a takeup package 22.
  • the yarn is then ready for use directly in the preparation of a woven stretch fabric as described at a later-stage herein.
  • the yarn passes through the heater element in a highly twisted state and the heat is adjusted to set the helical coils in the yarn thus allowing the yarn to stretch up to 400% from the relaxed state after processing.
  • the non thermoplastic material can be thermally processed in this way to give stretch properties even though there is no pretreatment with resin or other chemicals.
  • the heat applied to the plied spun yarns should be dry heat as distinguished from steam or other forms of moist heat in order to obtain the desired twist set and resulting stretch characteristics.
  • the amount of stretch in the finished yarn can be varied by regulating the number of helical coils applied per linear inch of yarn during the thermal processing.
  • woven fabrics can be prepared by the invention to give as much as 65% stretch in the filling direction of the fabric when a stretch yarn as prepared herein is used as the filling yarn.
  • the false twist applied to the plied yarn during the thermal processing is opposed to the ply twist but this is not absolutely necessary.
  • the amount of false twist will normally fall in the range of 20 to 90 turns per linear inch and should be at least equal to, and preferably two or more times greater than the ply twist, although it will be recognized that the degree of twist ultimately selected for any particular situation will depend upon the amount of stretch desired, the nature of the final product and other related factors.
  • blend or blend yarn as used herein are not to be confused with the product obtained by plying together a yarn of one material and another yarn of a different material.
  • the blends of the present case are prepared by blending together nonthermoplastic and thermoplastic staple fibers prior to spinning a yarn therefrom and the resulting spun yarn has a cross-section which shows a thorough mixture or distribution of the different types of fibers present therein.
  • the blending operation contemplated herein can be accomplished for example, on a conventional card with blending hopper, converter, or end feeding on drawing equipment or other like apparatus or procedures such as roving blending on spinning equipment, in varying percentage ratios of the, fibers involved.
  • the stretch yarn may be made out of one, two or more ends of spun yarn consisting of the desired blend or blends, in the manner described above in connection with the 100% nonthermoplastic stretch yarn.
  • conventional l/60s yarn consisting of a predetermined blend of polyester and Wool fibers having a select denier and grade respectively, is spun 20 turns per inch in the S or Z direction, care being taken to insure a very uniform yarn, i.c. having a low coefiicient of evenness variation.
  • a single end of this l/60s spun blend yarn is twisted or plied with another similar yarn which preferably has the same direction of twist although an opposite twist may also be used.
  • the plying operation should be carried out under uniform tension.
  • the degree and direction of twist for the single ends of spun yarn and for plying these ends together may be varied as aforesaid in connection with the 100% nonthermoplastic yarn.
  • Typical examples of suitable single blend yarns, plied yarns and degrees and direction of twist are shown below: 1/60 53% polyester/47% 70's W001 202 turns per inch) 1/60 53% polyester/47% 70s wool 2OZ turns per inch) 1/60 53% polyester/47% 70s W001 208 (turns per inch) 1/60 53% polyester/47% 70s W001 208 (turns per inch) 1/60 53% polyester/47% 70s W001 208 (turns per inch) 1/60 53% polyester/47% 70s W001 208 (turns per inch) 1/60 53% polyester/47% 70s Wool 2OZ turns per inch) 1/60 53% polyester/47% 70s wool 20S (turns per inch) 1/60 53% polyester/47% 70s wool 2OZ (tu ns per inch) 1/60 53% polyester/47% plied or twisted together 18S (turns per inch) plied or twisted together 18Z (turns per inch) plied or twisted together 18Z (turns per inch
  • the thermally processed single or plied yarn obtained in the manner described above and comprising one, two or more ends of spun yarn made up in whole or in part of nonthermoplastic staple has highly desirable stretch characteristics but these characteristics can be destroyed or impaired if the proper weaving and finishing techniques are not used.
  • Important requirements for the weaving operation have been noted above, including reeding out and maintaining a critical balance between warp ends per inch (sley) and picks per inch in relation to the reed width so that proper allowances are made for finishing losses and still leave desired amount of stretch.
  • the essential balance between the number of picks of filling per inch and number of ends per inch of warp should not exceed the maximum set. This maximum will vary depending on the yarn count and type plied or twisted together 18S (turns per inch) plied or twisted together 18Z (turns per inch) of weave, but a definite value can be calculated for any.
  • This maximum set which may also be called the maximum average greige fabric construction, may be determined for any particular type 'of weave and yarn count by the following formula:
  • X is the yards per pound determined by multiplying the equivalent count of the stretch filling yarn by 560 (worsted hank)
  • i Y is the number of ends in a repeat of the pattern
  • N is the number of interlacings per end in the weave
  • interlacings being defined as the number of intertwinings or crossings that'one end of the Weave makes with the filling in one repeat of the pattern
  • B is the percent warp contraction depending upon weave and picks per inch. This value is obtained by subtracting the length of the greige woven material from the length of the dressed or beamed material. In other words, if the greige material has a length of yards and the beamed or wound length of warp yarn on the loom beam is yards, the Warp contraction (B) is 10% or .10 in-the above formula.
  • this formula is used to determine the value of M, the latter being the sum of the average ends and picks per inch.
  • M the maximum average greige fabric construction which will give a stretch fabric and thistotal should not beexceeded.
  • the minimum average greige fabric construction may be any reasonable value usually not below 50% of the calculated value of the maximum greige fabric construction. It is important to increase the reed spread (widthof the unwoven warp ends) for stretch fabrics over conventional fabrics which decreases the filling beat-up allowing more air space for the filling yarn to contract. Where the stretch yarn is used only as the filling yarn, the fabric will stretch only in the filling direction, that is, widthwise.
  • Standard equipment and apparatus may be used in processing and weaving the stretch yarn according to the present invention. However, to insure a quality product,
  • finishing conditions which are ultimately selected will vary depending on the nature of the yarn andfabric butyin any event, it is important that the fabric be kept in a completely relaxed or stretch-free state with absolute thermal control in each phase of the finishing operation.
  • thermal control it is intended to mean maintenance of the specific temperatures applied in each phase of the finishing process.
  • STEPS (l) Batching, i.e., putting together different quantities of woven material which are to be processed together.
  • Birch crab This involves running the cloth into a series of hot water baths or bowls of increasingly higher temperatures with cooling in the final water bath or bowl. The purpose of this operation is to set the yarns in the material and to prevent excessive shrinkage. The operation also removes any sizing material which might be applied to the warp yarn during slashing to improve weaving characteristics.
  • the speed of the fabric is preferably about 30 yards per minute and usually within the range of 25 to 35 yards per minute depending on the type of fabric.
  • Typical operating temperatures as an example for the seven bowl Birch crab are the following:
  • Tacking- This step is optional and is a standard type of operation for the purpose of protecting the material against damage in subsequent wet-finishing operations, e.g. scouring, etc.
  • Dolly or full width washer scour This may be done, for example, on a Dolly or full width washer using a high liquid level so that there is no pressure or dragging on the material being scoured. It has been found that for best results the scouring agent should be non-alkaline, e.g. neutral or slightly acidic. Typically suitable scouring agents are the neutral nonionic detergents such as Adrian C. Usually the scouring is carried out at 4060 C. for from 25 to 45 minutes, preferably about 50 C. for 30 minutes, followed by rinsing with water at a lower temperature in the range of 3045 C.
  • Detack This is optional and involves opening the cloth back up to open width if step (5) has been employed.
  • Drying-The cloth is dried relaxed with up to 10% overfeed.
  • the purpose of the overfeed is to avoid any possible tension on the cloth, thus insuring complete relaxation.
  • the operation is carried out at 105 C. to 115 C. preferably 110 C., at a fabric speed of 20-25 yards per minute until the fabric is dry.
  • This drying operation is carried out at lower temperatures and slower speeds than used for conventional fabrics in view of the necessity of overfeediug to keep the fabric in the relaxed the water pad.
  • the purpose of this padding operation is to get as much dimensional shrinkage as possible in the cloth.
  • the fabric should be dyed in as completely relaxed condition as possible, using a high liquid level to reduce tension.
  • the fabric is then detacked if previously tacked.
  • finishing steps are known, in and of themselves, in the finishing art. Some of these finishing operations may be omitted and/or modified depending on the fabric. In any event, it is preferred that the above finishing operations be utilized in the manner indicated and, as noted heretofore, it is important that those operations which involve a liquid or drying treatment be carried out with the fabric in a completely relaxed state insofar as possible using essentially the steps, sequence, temperatures and time cycles as described above.
  • Steps (1'), (2) and (3) Batch, singe and Birch crab, respectively, as before except that somewhat different temperatures are used for the Birch crab operation.
  • typical operating temperatures for the Birch crab are:
  • the plied product was then stabilized by treatment with saturated steam (dry bulb 808-90 C. and wet bulb 70- 80 C.) at 80-90 C. for 60 minutes.
  • This ply yarn (identified as 2/50s 18S 12S) was then thermally processed as previously described using the apparatus shown in the drawing.
  • the plied yarn was processed through the false twisting apparatus at a speed of 21 linear yards per minute.
  • the temperature of the heater element was kept at 220 C. and the yarn was exposed to heat 'for 2.2 seconds per linear inch. While in the heated state, 46 turns per inch in the Z direction were imparted to. the plied yarn by the spindle rotating at 34,000 r.p.m.
  • the thus thermally processed stretch yarn was collected on the takeup package and then was ready to use in the preparation of a worsted stretch fabric.
  • a fabric was woven using this stretch yarn as the filling yarn in a 1X1 weave.
  • the warp yarn was (two-ply) 2/50s 70s worsted yarn consisting of two pre-ply single ends of 1/50 70s worsted yarn with a spun twist of 18 turns per inch in the Z direction, both ends of which were plied together in the S direction with 17 turns per inch not thermally processed, i.e. a conventional yarn.
  • the maximum figure for the sum of the average picks and ends per inch was calculated using the formula given heretofore. Because of the twist therein, the plied yarn measured approximately 14,000 yards per pound worsted count giving an equivalent count of about 25s. As described before, the warp was reeded out to conform with the amount of stretch and finish width desired.
  • the basic weaving construction formula is as previously described:
  • the fabric was woven with the warp yarns reeded out sufficiently to permit the filling yarn to bulk when X 2 108 maximun set the fabric was relax finished. This caused thefabric tonarrow approximately 26.5% in width when finished. This means that the fabric when taut would stretch out a substantially equivalent amount from the relaxed state.
  • the reeding out used in this example meant that the warp ends were spaced from 8 to 12% farther apart than a similar non-stretch type of fabric. The reeding out also helped maintain the total number of picks and ends per inch below the maximum calculation value of 108.
  • the greige fabric was taken from the loom and finished as follows: batched with additional fabric made in the same manner, flame singed, Birch crabbed, Yorkshire crabbed, tacked, Dolly washed, detacked, dried, warm water padded, dried, warm water padded, dried, Warm water padded, dried, dyed, dried, sheared, cold water shrunk, loop dried, cold water shrunk, loop dried and full decated all in the manner described above.
  • the thus finished fabric comprised a highly attractive 100% worsted fabric possessing inherent stretch char acteristics in the filling direction. Clothing made from this fabric is characterized by comfort and a very desirable freedom of movement without distorting shape of garment with increased crease resistant qualities. The fabric has an excellent recovery after being stretched and demonstrates no adverse changes after tailoring, wearing and repeated dry cleaning.
  • Example II An end of 60 count worsted system composed of the following intermingled blend, 47% 70s USDA wool, 53% 3 denier T-64 Dacron and spun 20' turns per inch in the Z direction was plied with another identical end of the same blend 18 turns per inch in the S direction. The plying operation was carried out with the two ends under controlled tension (ie a constant tension of 15 grams).
  • the plied product was then stabilized by treatment with steam (saturated) at C.- C. for 60 minutes.
  • steam saturated
  • a fabric was then woven with stretch yarn prepared as above as the filling yarn in a 1X1 weave.
  • the warp yarn was (two-ply) 2/60s composed of the following blendz 47% 70s USDA wool, 53% 3 denier T-64 Dacron consisting of two pre-ply single ends of 1/ 60 (of same blend) yarn with a spun twist of 20 turns per inch in the Z direction, both ends of which were plied together in the S direction with 18 turns per inch.
  • the warp yarn was conventional' and was not thermally processed by the false twist method or given any equivalent treatment.
  • the maximum figure for the sum of the average picks and ends per inch was calculated using the formula given heretofore. Because of the twist therein, the plied yarn measured approximately 16,800 yards per pound worsted count giving an equivalent count of about 30s. As described before, the warp has been reeded out to conform with amount of stretch and finish width desired.
  • the basic weaving construction formula is as previously described:
  • the fabric was woven with the warp yarns reeded out sufliciently to permit the filling yarn to bulk when the fabric was relax finished. This caused the fabric to narrow approximately 26% in the width when finished. This means that the fabric when taut would stretch out a substantially equivalent amount from the relaxed state.
  • the reeding out used in this example meant that the warp ends were spaced from 8 to 12% farther apart than a similar non-stretch type of fabric. The reeding out also helped maintain the total number of picks and ends per inch below the maximum calculation value of 118 necessary to obtain optimum results.
  • the greige fabric was finished as follows: batched'with additional fabric made in the same manner, singed, Birch crabbed, dried, full decated, relaxed boiled, dyed, dried, sheared, heat set, cold water shunk, loop dried, cold water shrunk, loop dried, full decated, in the manner referred to above.
  • the thus finished wool/polyester fabric was highly X 2 118 maximum set attractive, possessing inherent stretch characteristics in the filling direction. Clothing made from this fabric is characterized by comfort and a very desirable freedom of movement. The fabric has an excellent recovery to its original shape after being stretched and demonstrates no adverse changes after tailoring, wearing and repeated dry cleaning.
  • Example IlI.Example II was repeated except that, instead of using two ends of spun blend for the stretch yarn, one such end was used with a 100% nonthermoplastic spun yarn as used in- Example I.
  • the resulting fabric had excellent stretch characteristics in the filling direction and was otherwise satisfactory.
  • the plied yarn comprising two or more ends of the indicated blend, may be either (a) package dyed (typically at 127 C. for one hour), coned and thermally processed on the false twisting apparatus as described above or (b) first thermally processed, then wound to dye tubes, dyed using temperature and time conditions which will not upset the crimp in the yarn and wound to cone.
  • the dyed stretch yarn obtained by either of these procedures may be used as filling yarn and, if desired, warp yarn to weave any desired fabric pattern.
  • the resulting fabric may be finished in the following manner to give a yamdyed stretch product: shearing; desizing in a rope washer (e.g. washing at 93 C. for 15 minutes followed by hot rinse at 71 C. and cold rinse); drying on tenter (typically at 175 C. in relaxed width at 70-80 yards per minute); pad finishing, washing and drying in normal fashion, dry singeing and sanforizing.
  • a rope washer e.g. washing at 93 C. for 15 minutes followed by hot rinse at 71 C. and cold rinse
  • tenter typically at 175 C. in relaxed width at 70-80 yards per minute
  • pad finishing washing and drying in normal fashion, dry singeing and sanforizing.
  • the plied yarn may be first processed on the false twist equipment as before followed by winding on a cone, quilling, weaving, shearing, desizing as above, beck dyeing without any tension on the cloth in the filling direction and then drying, pad finishing, washing, drying again, singeing and sanforizing as before.
  • the quility of the woven product will depend on the quality and nature of the staple fibers in the spun yarn.
  • the fibers should desirably have a USDA wool grade number between about s and 80s and worsted yarns, before plying, should have a yarn count of the order of 10s to 80s.
  • An end of this type of yarn, using 60s count, can be identified as 1/60s80s woo in the accepted terminology of the art.
  • a process for preparing a stretch fabric which comprises (l) providing a yarn comprising at least one end of staple spun yarn selected from the group consisting of:
  • y is the number of ends in a repeat of the pattern It is the number of interlacings per end in the weave
  • B is the percent warp contraction depending on the weave and picks per inch.
  • stretch yarn comprising at least one end of staple spun yarn made up of an intimate blend of thermoplastic and nonthermoplastic staple fibers.
  • said stretch yarn comprises pliedends of staple spun yarn, each of said ends being made up of an intimate blend of thermoplastic and nonthermoplastic staple fibers.
  • stretch yarn comprises an end made up entirely of wool fibers.
  • finishing step comprises treating said fabric in a heated aqueous me-' dium and then drying in the relaxed condition.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
US24431062 1962-12-13 1962-12-13 Woven fabric and method of making same Expired - Lifetime US3247569A (en)

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US24431062 US3247569A (en) 1962-12-13 1962-12-13 Woven fabric and method of making same
GB4733663A GB1018397A (en) 1962-12-13 1963-11-29 Stretch yarns and fabrics made therefrom
CH1517963A CH452100A (de) 1962-12-13 1963-12-11 Verfahren zur Herstellung eines elastisch dehnbaren Garnes aus nichtthermoplastischen Fasern
CH953171A CH543619A (de) 1962-12-13 1963-12-11 Rohes unveredeltes Gewebe
AT996863A AT267377B (de) 1962-12-13 1963-12-12 Verfahren zur Herstellung eines elastisch dehnbaren Garnes oder Zwirnes
AT349565A AT269766B (de) 1962-12-13 1963-12-12 Dehnbares Gewebe
DE19631510522 DE1510522A1 (de) 1962-12-13 1963-12-12 Verfahren und Herstellung von Stretchgarnen und -geweben und danach hergestellte Stretchgarne und -gewebe
US423256A US3289401A (en) 1962-12-13 1965-01-04 Stretch yarn and process for preparing the same

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Cited By (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3367096A (en) * 1965-06-07 1968-02-06 Alamance Ind Inc Apparatus for false-twisting and plying yarns
US3380244A (en) * 1966-02-01 1968-04-30 Du Pont Core-spun elastic yarn product and process
US3425110A (en) * 1967-07-20 1969-02-04 Logan Inc Jonathan Method of stabilizing bulked continuous filament thermoplastic yarn
US3430314A (en) * 1964-10-07 1969-03-04 Courtaulds Ltd Method of bulking textile yarns
US3472017A (en) * 1964-08-10 1969-10-14 Asahi Chemical Ind Specific filament yarns
US3500629A (en) * 1966-12-06 1970-03-17 Burlington Industries Inc Process for producing a stretch core spun yarn
US3635259A (en) * 1970-02-27 1972-01-18 Burlington Industries Inc Imitation mohair fabric
US3803826A (en) * 1971-07-19 1974-04-16 Kanebo Ltd Method for continuously setting wool silver
US5477669A (en) * 1989-08-17 1995-12-26 Commonwealth Scientific & Industrial Research Organisation Process for stretching staple fibers and staple fibers produced thereby
US20050097877A1 (en) * 2000-09-07 2005-05-12 Thomas Hainsworth Fire resistant textile material
US11591748B2 (en) 2020-01-14 2023-02-28 Shadow Works, Llc Heat treated multilayer knitted textile of liquid crystal polymer fibers and modified polyacrylonitrile fibers, and process for making same

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE2928692A1 (de) * 1979-07-16 1981-02-12 Klaus Uhlmann Verfahren zum herstellen eines wenigstens in einer richtung stark elastisch dehnbaren gewebes aus naturfasern
ES2080016B1 (es) * 1993-12-16 1996-06-16 Hidalgo Beistegui Sa M Procedimiento de fabricacion de un tejido elastico labrado.

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GB715851A (en) * 1952-05-02 1954-09-22 Ici Ltd Improvements in the shrink-proofing of wool
FR1082461A (fr) * 1953-08-28 1954-12-29 Tissages De Soieries Reunis Procédé et appareil pour la production d'une matière textile comportant des ondulations permanentes
FR1090011A (fr) * 1953-08-03 1955-03-25 Procédé et dispositifs pour le traitement des fils textiles
FR1091308A (fr) * 1954-01-11 1955-04-12 Procédé et appareil pour l'obtention de fils spéciaux
FR1103983A (fr) * 1954-07-12 1955-11-15 Procédé pour rendre contractile et d'aspect laineux les fils de fibres synthétiques continus multibrins
US2881504A (en) * 1953-02-24 1959-04-14 Billion & Cie Process for crimping textile threads
US2890568A (en) * 1956-06-19 1959-06-16 British Celanese Production of voluminous yarn
US2890567A (en) * 1956-05-24 1959-06-16 Burlington Industries Inc Combination yarn
GB830702A (en) * 1956-09-19 1960-03-16 Hans Perlinger Method of and apparatus for crimping wholly or partially synthetic filaments or strands of filaments
US2959906A (en) * 1955-09-19 1960-11-15 Richter Hans Device and method for crimping fully synthetic threads and thread strands
US2991614A (en) * 1953-03-25 1961-07-11 Ubbelohde Leo False twisting apparatus for producing crimped filamentary materials
US3009312A (en) * 1956-07-30 1961-11-21 Textile Licensing Company Methods of producing torque yarns
US3009309A (en) * 1956-07-16 1961-11-21 Du Pont Fluid jet twist crimping process
US3017685A (en) * 1957-05-25 1962-01-23 Heberlein Patent Corp Process for the production of fabrics from specially prepared yarns
US3025659A (en) * 1955-02-21 1962-03-20 Leesona Corp Method of thermally processing non-thermoplastic yarn
US3050819A (en) * 1958-06-03 1962-08-28 Celanese Corp Manufacture of bulked fiber
US3069838A (en) * 1959-11-09 1962-12-25 Ind Ges Fur Schappe Method of manufacturing a highly elastic yarn ply
US3091912A (en) * 1957-04-19 1963-06-04 Leesona Corp Method of processing stretch yarn and yarns produced thereby
US3099907A (en) * 1960-12-08 1963-08-06 Ind & Commerciale Paris Nord Process for obtaining textile end products using discontinuous fibers
US3127658A (en) * 1962-02-15 1964-04-07 Burlington Industries Inc Worsted stretch fabric and process for manufacturing same
US3151439A (en) * 1962-07-09 1964-10-06 Deering Milliken Res Corp Process for making elastic keratinous yarns

Patent Citations (21)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB715851A (en) * 1952-05-02 1954-09-22 Ici Ltd Improvements in the shrink-proofing of wool
US2881504A (en) * 1953-02-24 1959-04-14 Billion & Cie Process for crimping textile threads
US2991614A (en) * 1953-03-25 1961-07-11 Ubbelohde Leo False twisting apparatus for producing crimped filamentary materials
FR1090011A (fr) * 1953-08-03 1955-03-25 Procédé et dispositifs pour le traitement des fils textiles
FR1082461A (fr) * 1953-08-28 1954-12-29 Tissages De Soieries Reunis Procédé et appareil pour la production d'une matière textile comportant des ondulations permanentes
FR1091308A (fr) * 1954-01-11 1955-04-12 Procédé et appareil pour l'obtention de fils spéciaux
FR1103983A (fr) * 1954-07-12 1955-11-15 Procédé pour rendre contractile et d'aspect laineux les fils de fibres synthétiques continus multibrins
US3025659A (en) * 1955-02-21 1962-03-20 Leesona Corp Method of thermally processing non-thermoplastic yarn
US2959906A (en) * 1955-09-19 1960-11-15 Richter Hans Device and method for crimping fully synthetic threads and thread strands
US2890567A (en) * 1956-05-24 1959-06-16 Burlington Industries Inc Combination yarn
US2890568A (en) * 1956-06-19 1959-06-16 British Celanese Production of voluminous yarn
US3009309A (en) * 1956-07-16 1961-11-21 Du Pont Fluid jet twist crimping process
US3009312A (en) * 1956-07-30 1961-11-21 Textile Licensing Company Methods of producing torque yarns
GB830702A (en) * 1956-09-19 1960-03-16 Hans Perlinger Method of and apparatus for crimping wholly or partially synthetic filaments or strands of filaments
US3091912A (en) * 1957-04-19 1963-06-04 Leesona Corp Method of processing stretch yarn and yarns produced thereby
US3017685A (en) * 1957-05-25 1962-01-23 Heberlein Patent Corp Process for the production of fabrics from specially prepared yarns
US3050819A (en) * 1958-06-03 1962-08-28 Celanese Corp Manufacture of bulked fiber
US3069838A (en) * 1959-11-09 1962-12-25 Ind Ges Fur Schappe Method of manufacturing a highly elastic yarn ply
US3099907A (en) * 1960-12-08 1963-08-06 Ind & Commerciale Paris Nord Process for obtaining textile end products using discontinuous fibers
US3127658A (en) * 1962-02-15 1964-04-07 Burlington Industries Inc Worsted stretch fabric and process for manufacturing same
US3151439A (en) * 1962-07-09 1964-10-06 Deering Milliken Res Corp Process for making elastic keratinous yarns

Cited By (12)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3472017A (en) * 1964-08-10 1969-10-14 Asahi Chemical Ind Specific filament yarns
US3430314A (en) * 1964-10-07 1969-03-04 Courtaulds Ltd Method of bulking textile yarns
US3367096A (en) * 1965-06-07 1968-02-06 Alamance Ind Inc Apparatus for false-twisting and plying yarns
US3380244A (en) * 1966-02-01 1968-04-30 Du Pont Core-spun elastic yarn product and process
US3500629A (en) * 1966-12-06 1970-03-17 Burlington Industries Inc Process for producing a stretch core spun yarn
US3425110A (en) * 1967-07-20 1969-02-04 Logan Inc Jonathan Method of stabilizing bulked continuous filament thermoplastic yarn
US3635259A (en) * 1970-02-27 1972-01-18 Burlington Industries Inc Imitation mohair fabric
US3803826A (en) * 1971-07-19 1974-04-16 Kanebo Ltd Method for continuously setting wool silver
US5477669A (en) * 1989-08-17 1995-12-26 Commonwealth Scientific & Industrial Research Organisation Process for stretching staple fibers and staple fibers produced thereby
US20050097877A1 (en) * 2000-09-07 2005-05-12 Thomas Hainsworth Fire resistant textile material
US6955193B2 (en) * 2000-09-07 2005-10-18 A W Hainsworth & Sons Ltd. Fire resistant textile material
US11591748B2 (en) 2020-01-14 2023-02-28 Shadow Works, Llc Heat treated multilayer knitted textile of liquid crystal polymer fibers and modified polyacrylonitrile fibers, and process for making same

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
AT267377B (de) 1968-12-27
DE1510522A1 (de) 1972-04-20
AT269766B (de) 1969-04-10
CH452100A (de) 1968-05-31
GB1018397A (en) 1966-01-26
CH1517963A4 (enEXAMPLES) 1967-11-15

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