US2713204A

US2713204A - Straight of goods finder

Info

Publication number: US2713204A
Application number: US429512A
Authority: US
Inventors: Dorothy L Moore
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1954-05-13
Filing date: 1954-05-13
Publication date: 1955-07-19
Anticipated expiration: 1972-07-19

Description

July 19, 1955 n. L. MOORE 2,713,204

STRAIGHT OF GOODS FINDER Filed May 13, 1954 F1E l INVENTOR: DOROTHY L. Moo/a5 a WMf HER A TTOPNE Y5 United States Patent STRAIGHT OF GDODS FINDER Dorothy L. Moore, Gilroy, Calif.

Application M ay 13, 1954, Serial No. 429,512

2 Claims. (Cl. 33-16) This invention relates to layout tools and more particularly to what I prefer to call a straight of goods finder for use by seamstresses or tailors in laying out dress or suit patterns on cloth to attain the maximum strength of such cloth in the ultimate garment.

In the making of garments, a pattern is selected to suit the desire of the person for whom the garment is intended. These patterns, as is well known, are printed on thin filmy tissue paper in the form of the various parts for the garment such as, back, front, sleeve, collars, belts, and various facings for certain of such parts. The pattern parts are provided with what is called a grainline arrow which is printed on the pattern part. These grainline arrows are for the purpose of registering the pattern with the straight of goods, i. e., lengthwise of the goods, so

that the part eventually cut out of the cloth will lie flat,

will not pull or balloon or otherwise be distorted and lose its tailored appearance.

The straight of goods is that direction in the weave of the cloth which is lengthwise of the goods as it comes from the bolt. The cloth has what is known as the selvedge of the material on each of its longitudinal side edges so woven as to prevent raveling of the fabric. By placing the grainline arrow printed on the pattern part parallel to the selvedge of the material, best results are obtained in the lay and tailored appearance of the ultimate garment. In the absence of the selvedge, one would have to pull a thread transverse to the lengthwise strands of the cloth in order to find a line from which to establish the straight of goods.

The present invention has as its object to provide a tool by which the straight of goods can be determined at various positions on the fabric.

Another object of this invention is to provide a straight of goods finder adapted to coordinate with the selvedge of woven fabric in a manner to register the grainline arrow of a pattern with the lengthwise direction of such woven fabric.

These and other objects of the present invention will become apparent from a reading of the following description in the light of the drawings in which:

Fig. 1 is a plan view of the straight of goods finder embodying the present invention.

Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the straight of goods finder as seen from line 22 in Pig. 1 and showing the same disposed on fabric with a pattern between.

Fig. 3 is an enlarged end view of the straight of goods finder only as seen from line 33 in Fig. 2.

Fig. 4 is a plan view of the straight of goods finder in use; and

Fig. 5 is a perspective view showing a modified form of the straight of goods finder.

In the drawings, the straight of goods finder generally designated comprises a straight edge 11 provided with a perpendicular head portion 12 and a rider 13 slidable along the straight edge 11 and carrying an indicator 14 transverse to the straight edge and parallel to the head portion 12.

For purposes of this invention the various parts of the straight of goods finder 10 can be made of wood, plastic or any suitable material which is firm and will not warp or become distorted. The straight edge 11 and the head portion 12 are preferably formed or constructed to lie in a common plane so that these two portions will lie flat upon the material or fabric C from which a garment part is to be cut. The straight edge 11 is of a length such as to extend at least but preferably more than halfway across the fabric C as it comes commercially in bolts.

The rider 13 as best seen in Fig. 3 consists of a bridge piece 17 upon which the indicator 14 is mounted or scribed as the case may be. In this connection see Figs. 3 and 4 in which the indicator 14 is a slim rod secured to the bridge piece 17 whereas in Fig. 5 the bridge piece itself or an added piece of plastic 17' has a V groove 14 scribed lengthwise upon its top surface and transversely of the straight edge 11 over which the bridge piece is disposed.

To complete the rider 13 the bridge piece 17 is provided with a

guide block

19 and 20 one on each side of the straight edge 11 so as to maintain the bridge piece as well as the indicator 14 transversely of the straight edge 11.

It should here be noted that the guide blocks 19 and r 20 are not quite as deep as the normal depth of the straight edge 11 so as to leave a substantial clearance heneath each of the

blocks

19 and 20 and the upper surface of the goods or fabric C. In this manner the bridge piece is free to glide lengthwise of the straight edge 11 without catching onto or snagging a pattern P which lies between the straight of goods finder and the fabric.

As best illustrated in Fig. 4, the pattern P has printed thereon a grainline arrow A which is to be placed lengthwise of the goods or fabric C. This placement is very important to the tailored appearance of the ultimate garment. In order to eliminate waste of the material C it is sometimes necessary to try several layouts of the various pattern pieces for a particular garment. Consequently, it is customary to place the several pattern pieces and pin them to the fabric until the entire garment is laid out thereon. For example as illustrated in Fig. 4, a larger pattern piece P is first placed upon the material C leaving spaces in which smaller pattern pieces such as for belts and collars can be placed to avoid loss of the amount of material in these irregular spaces.

With the straight of goods finder 1%, each pattern piece can be accurately placed with its grainline A in register with the straight of goods, i. e., lengthwise of the material. This is accomplished by placing the head portion 12 right on or at the selvedge S of the material C. Thus the straight edge 11 will be disposed absolutely transverse to the material. The pattern piece P is placed under the straight edge with the latter crossing the grainline arrow A substantially midway between its arrow ends. The rider 13 is then moved along the straight edge 11 until the indicator 14 overlies the grainline arrow printed on the pattern. Thereafter the pattern P is adusted until the grainline arrow A registers with the indicator 14 thus indicating that the pattern P is properly placed upon the material with its grainline arrow disposed lengthwise of the goods, i. e., with the straight of goods. The pattern piece thus disposed is then secured to the cloth C by straight pins L as shown in Fig. 5 whereupon the same procedure is repeated for the other pattern pieces for the particular garment to be laid out upon the cloth.

Having thus described my straight of goods finder in specific detail, it will be apparent that variations, alterations, and/0r modifications may be made without departing from the spirit of my invention. I, therefore, desire to avail myself of all variations, alterations and/or modifications as fairly come within the purview of the appended claims.

What I claim as new and desire to protect by Letters Patent is:

1. A device for positioning a pattern upon fabric with its grainline in alignment with the straight of goods which is parallel with the selvedge of such fabric comprising an elongated straight edge, ahead portion disposed perpendicular to said straight edge and at one'end thereof, said straight edge and its head portion being disposed in a common plane to lie upon the fabric with the head portion in alignment with the selvedge of the fabric and the straight edge transversely of the goods and above the pattern, and an indicator mounted on said straight edge for sliding movement therealong for indicating the straight of goods relative to said pattern and the grainline thereon comprising a bridge piece transverse to said straight edge, a guide blockon each side of said straight edge and secured to the under side of said bridge piece, said guide blocks being of lesser thickness than said'straight edge to afiord clearance beneath each of said blocks and the upper surface of said fabric and pattern thereon. v

2. A straight of goods finder for laying out pattern parts on fabric with their grainline arrows in parallelism with the selvedge of such fabric comprising an elongated straight edge, a head portion disposed perpendicular to said straight edge and at one end thereof, a rider mounted for sliding movement upon said straight edge, an indicator on said rider disposed transversely of said elongated straight edge, said elongated straight edge and said head portion being disposed in a common plane with the head portion parallel to-the selvedge of said fabric and said rider comprising a bridge piece transverse. to said straight edge provided with a guide block on each side of said straight edge and of lesser thickness than the latter to afiord substantial clearance between said guide blocks and the upper surface of said fabric and pattern thereon.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS Michalovitz Apr. 1,