US2646569A - Apparel garment and method for making the same - Google Patents

Description

July 28, 1953 M. G. ROSENFELD APPAREL GARMENT AND METHOD FOR MAKING THE SAME Filed June 29, 1951 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 FIG. 8.

I INVENTOR. Mu-0N G. ROSENFELD July 28, 1953 M. G. ROSENFELD APPAREL GARMENT AND METHOD FOR MAKING THE SAME Filed June 29, 1951 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 FIG. ll.

I INVENTOR. MILTON G. ROSENFELD FIG. l2.

Patented July 28, 1953 APPAREL GARMENT AND METHOD FOR MAKING THE SAME .Milton G; .Rosenfeld, Ladue, M0,, assignor to Western Garment Company, corporation of Missouri St. Louis, Mo., a

Application June29, 1951 Seri'aI'No. 234,396

This invention relates in general to certain new and useful improvements in apparel garments and methods for making the same.

-In the manufacture ofwomens suits it: has

become quite fashionable to design coats or jackets which are unlined or skeleton lined, asit is sometimes called. These-garments are comparatively light in weight and serve an extremely useful purpose in the average womans wardrobe inasmuch as such garments are adapted for use practically on a year round basis, being light enough in weight to be worn on mostv summer days and being extremely comfortable andeasy to wear beneath coats and other heavier outer wraps in the winter. Such garments, however, present serious manufacturing problems. In order to provide adequate rigidity to the front panels and lapels of the garmentit is necessary to use some type of stiff fabric, suchasgoats hair, cambric, or the like. These materials, such as goats hair'and the like, are somewhat coarse 'fibered and usually are used in-white or light colors. Consequently, when the panel of goats hair fabric is employed in the front construction of the garment, the light colored goats hair will be visible around the edges of the buttonholes and produce a'very unsightly appearance. Ei-

' buttonhole constructions which are known inthe dressmaking and tailoring art,but-such buttonhole constructions are not consi'dered fashionab'le' or well tailored and add greatly to the" expense of the garment while not improving theappear ance thereof. On the other hand: it is not possible to eliminate the goats hair-lining'entirely and substitute a fabric which more nearly matches the fabric of the garment because the rigidity imparted to the garment by the goats hair liner is vitally necessary in the-region ofthe collar and lapel, otherwise the garment will-not hold its shape during wear, but will quickly become slack and shabby in appearance.

It is, therefore, theprimary object of'the present invention to providea garment having aracing liner formed ofthe samematerial asthe other panels the garment which facing liner 6- Claims. (01. 2-93)" is uniquely combined with an upper section of goats their adapted to impart proper firmness i andrigidity to the collar and lapel sections of the garment.

It is another object of the'present invention to provide a garment'of the type stated in which. the various seams employed in joining the several parts are uniquely arranged soasuto provide a smooth uniform leading edge which does not present bumps or press. marks revealing the presence of underlying seams.

It is a further object ofthe present invention to providev a garment of .theptype stated and the method of making the samewhich is simple-and economical.

With the aboveand otherobjects inview, my invention resides in the. novel featuresof form, construction, arrangement, and combination of parts presently described and pointedout in the claims.

In the accompanying. drawings Figure: 1 is a plan view of the facing liner in a preliminary stage of construction;

Figure 2 is; av plan view of the finished facing liner;

Figure 3 is a fragmentary sectional view taken along; line. 3-3 ofFigure 2:;

Figure 4 is a. plan view of the. facing liner with a: section of tape stitched along one'end;

Figure 51 is. av planview of the facing Figure 6 is; a fragmentary plan. View of the facing and facin liner preliminarilysecured together alongone: edge Figure? is a. transverse sectional. view. taken alongline 11 of Figure 6;

Figure 8 is. a, plan view or one of the front panels of the garment;

Figure 9 is a fragmentary sectional view showing the front panel secured to the facing in an intermediate stage of construction;

Figure 10- isa transverse sectional view showing all of the several elements of the front section or the garment secured together in the inside-out relation in which-they are at the conclusion of all the sewing operations;

Figure 1 1 is a front plan view of the front panelot thev garment after it has been stitched together and. turned right side. out;

Figure 12 is a transverse sectional view taken along line I2"|2 of Figure 11'; and

Figure l 3i's a front elevationalviewof the finished garment embodying the construction of the present invention.

Referring now in more detail and-by reference charactersto the drawings; which iiiustrate a the provision of a simple seam l having upturned flaps 5, 6, to form a complete facing liner l, as best seen in Figures 2 and 3. In this connection it should be noted that for purposes of description the term forward will be used at all times to refer to the faces of the various panels which are presented outwardly away from the body of the wearer when the garment is being worn and the term rearward will be applied to opposite faces of such panels, that is to say, those faces which face inwardly toward the body of the wearer when the garment is being worn. These terms will be respectively applied to the various faces of the panels whether or not, in the actual construction of the finished garment, these panels a and their respective faces are visible or not.

Stitched fiatwise to the completed facing liner 1, is a narrow section of tape which projects laterally outwardly beyond the edge of the facing liner 'i, as shown in Figure 4. Cut out of a suitable section of the fabric from which the garment is being made is a facing panel 8 substantially similar in shape to the facing liner I having a lapel-forming notch 9 matching the lapel-forming notch II] of the facing liner I and having a leading edge i I conforming in shape to the leading edge I2 of the facing liner. The facing panel 8 is, however, approximately three quarters of an inch wider than the facing liner I so that when the two panels are laid one on top of the other with their inner edges I3, I 3, disposed in overlying registration the leading edge I I will extend outwardly beyond the leading edge I2 and the exposed marginal edge of the tape t. The facing panel 8 is laid down with the facing liner 2' superimposed thereon so that the rearward face i of the facing panel 8 is in abutting relation against the forward face of the facing liner, or, in other words, the two panels are placed together in inside-out relation. The panels I, 8 are thereupon joined together along their inner margins by a line of stitches l5, substantially as shown in Figures 6 and 7.

A front panel I6 is cut out of the fabric from which the garment is to be made and is laid down with its forward face in fiatwise abutment upon the rearward face of the facing panel 8 and its leading edge ll projecting outwardly beyond the leading edge II of the facing panel 8, the facing liner i being pulled back loosely out of the way, substantially in the manner as shown in Figure 9. Thefront panel It and facing panel 8 are then jointed together by a line of stitches I8.

Thereupon, the facing liner '1 is pulled back into overlying relation upon the curled-up front panel It so that the outer or exposed margin of the tape it is in registration with the leading edge 11 of the front panel I6 and the tape is secured to the projecting portion of the body panel I6 by a line of stitches I9, substantially as shown in Figure 10. It will be noted by reference to Figure 10 that the entire front panel of the garment which is now completely stitched together is disposed in inside-out-relationship and the fullness which is indicated at :c in Figure 10 is due to the greater width of the facingpanel 8 with respect to the facing liner 1, as previously pointed out.

The several panels, as thus jointed together, are then turned completely inside-out and pressed to form a completed front body element b, as shown in Figure 11. This body element b may be duplicated in substantially mirror-image form to provide the matchin front body panel I) and stitched to conventional sleeve, back and collar elements to form a finished jacket, as shown in Figure 13. The garment is then conventionally provided with any desired number of buttons and buttonholes.

It will be noted that the seams adjacent to the leading edge I of the finished garment, as best seen in Figure 12, are extremely flat and compact so that the front of the garment will be smooth and attractive in appearance. In this connection it should be particularly noted that in the region of the seam 4 between the goats hair section 2 and the facing section I, the finished garment has the same number of thicknesses or plies of material across both sides of the vertical juncture line :11. Since the facing liner section I is thus made of the same fabric as the rest of the garment the buttonholes will not show any unsightly Y off-color edges and, at the same time, a section of goats hair lighting material will thus be incorporated in the area of the garment where it is actually needed.

It should be understood that changes and modifications in the form, construction, arrangement, and combination of the several parts of the apparel garment and methods for making the same may be made and substituted for those herein shown and described without departing from the nature and principle of my invention.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent isl. A ladies suit jacket comprising front panels, facing panels marginally secured to the front panels, said facing panels being formed of the same material as the front panels, and an intermediate lining section interposed between the front panels and facing panels, said lining section consisting of a lower portion and an upper portion, the upper portion being formed of stiff, coarse material and the lower portion being formed of the same material as the front and facing panels.

2. A ladies suit jacket comprising front panels, facing panels marginally secured to the front panels, said facing panels being formed of the same material as the front panels, and an intermediate lining section interposed between the front panels and facing panels, said lining section consisting of a lower portion and an upper portion stitched together transversely, the upper portion being formed of stiff, coarse material and the lower portion being formed of the same material as the front and facing panels.

3. The method of making a suit jacket which comprises cutting out a front panel, cutting out a facing panel, cutting out a lining panel, each of said panels respectively having front and rear margins, stitching a length of tape along the front margin of the lining section, laying the lining panel and facing panel upon each other with their outside faces in overlying abutment and their rear margins in registration, stitching the facing and lining panels together along their rear margins, laying the-outside face of the front panel against the outside face of the facing panel with the front margin of the front panel projecting beyond the front margin of the facing panel, rolling the front panel up lengthwise compactly so as to lie entirely between the front and rear margins of the facing panel, laying the lining panel over the rolled-up front panel and stitching the projecting marginal portions of the tape and front panel together to form an elongatedopen-ended tube which is wrong side out, and finally turning thetube inside out.

4. The method of making a suit jacket which comprises cutting out a front panel, cutting out a facing panel, cutting out a lining panel, each of said panels respectively having front and rear margins, stitchingv a length of tape along the front margin of the lining section, laying the lining panel and facing panel upon each other with their right sides in overlying abutment and their rear margins in registration, stitching the facing and lining panels together along their rear margins, laying the right side of the front panel against the right side of the facing panel with the front margin of the front panel projecting beyond the front margin of the facing panel, rolling the front panel up lengthwise compactly so as to lie entirely between the front and rear margins of the facing panel, laying the lining panel over the rolled-up front panel and stitching the projecting marginal portions of the tape and front panel together to form an elongated open-ended tube which is wrong side out, and finally turning the tube inside out.

5. The method of making a suit jacket which comprises cutting out a front panel, cutting out a facing panel, cutting a lower lining section of material matching the material of the front panel, cutting an upper lining section of relatively stifi material, seaming said sections together along transverse margins to form a lining panel conforming in shape to the facing panel,

each of said panels respectively having front and rear margins, stitching a length of tape along the front margin of the lining section, laying the lining panel and facingpanel upon each other with their outside faces in overlying abutment and their rear margins in registration, stitching the facing and lining panels together along their stitching the projecting marginal portions of the tape and front panel together to form an elongated open-ended tube which is Wrong side out, and finally turning the tube inside out.

6. The method of making asuit jacket which comprises cutting out a front panel, cutting out a facing panel, cutting out a lining panel conforming in shape to the facing panel, each of said panels respectively having front and rear margins, stitching a length of tape along the front margin of the lining section, laying the lining panel and facing panel upon each other with their outside faces in overlying abutment and their rear margins in registratiomstitching the facing and lining panels together along their rear margins, laying the outside-face of the front panel against the outside face of the facing panel with the front margin of the front panel projecting beyond the front margin'of the facing panel,

rolling the front panel up lengthwise compactly so as to lie entirely between the front and rear margins of the facing panel, laying the lining panel over the rolled-up front panel and stitch- I ing the projecting marginal portions of the tape and'front panel together to form an elongated open-ended tube Whichis wrong side out, and 7 tube inside out, MILTON G. ROSENFELD.

References Cited in the file of this patent V UNITED STATES PATENTS finally turning the Number Name I Date 415,447 Cluett Nov. 19, 1889 1,588,131 Mueller June,8,-1926 2,228,911 Kaiser Jan. 14, 1941 2,375,779 Freedman May 15, 1945 2,534,863 Frankel Dec. 19, 1950

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